Hi Ant & Cid. I hope you're both well. I remember the original video you did about exhaust elbows. We changed our exhaust elbow for a stainless steel one and also had our exchanger removed and cleaned in an acid bath. We try really hard to look after our engine and have serviced regularly. So far the engine has never let us down and been extremely reliable. Take care. All the best Daryl &Shirley X.
Super explanation. I had figured much of this out by necessity when one of my heat exchangers developed a hole that looked much like the one you show at 1:27 and after inspecting the elbow. I've now replaced two heat exchangers and two mixing elbows (with stainless steel) as there are two D1-30 engines on my catamaran. It was a significant undertaking and a shocking cost. I'm relatively new to diesel engines and really appreciate your content here particularly because you have the same engine. Thanks.
When I first learned of backflow of salt water into the exhaust manifold I went through a phase of starting with salt water intake turned off, then opening the petcock only after the engine fired up. Then I scratched my head and wondered if the tiny risk was worth the risk of forgetting to turn that petcock back on. Both are serious! Now I only do that when I anticipate trouble starting, or if first efforts to start the engine fail. My elbow is entirely cast iron, I'm surprised that some are made of aluminum. The last boat I saw with a failing coolant elbow was spewing white smoke out with the exhaust. My mechanic mind said head gasket leak, but it was more simple than that. When raw water flow is reduced, the water that does pass through heats to a higher temp, resulting in a steamy mix of exhaust fumes and evaporated water that condenses when it is cooled by outside air.
Exactly mate. The Yanmars seem to fare better but they do have a better rate of raw water flow for a similar size Volvo. I think this helps a lot. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Ant - it’s very good advice you have given. I am sure there are a lot of sailors who just do not realise just how corrosive salt water is, and when acting with heat and the acid products that arise from combustion - it really is an aggressive mix. But your video goes a long way to correcting that. Well done Ant.😀👍
Nice video and explanation Ant. I noticed a drop in exhaust water, followed a few hours later with overheating. I took the elbow off and there was only a tiny hole letting water into the mix. An acid bath revealed holes that I hadn't noticed where the water mixes in. All up it was in very good condition under the carbon, so went on to serve another 4 years before sale day.
An excellent, informative video. I think this is my second time watching. For air filter, an adventure project might be cutting it in half with dremel, adding lip, removing filer element and replacing with like cut to size. Secure with two large zip ties. One might as well experiment if you are going to toss it anyway. Thank you for posting.
There is a couple of videos a while back that explain how the diesel engine works and one just about cooling. Have a look back through our videos I think one of these is exactly what your looking for.
Excellent episode. I recently bought a boat with a Volvo penta D1 20 so I enjoyed the similarity between your engine. Rather than an exhaust elbow like yours mine has an exhaust riser. It’s a solid tube from the raw water exit from the heat exchange right into the elbow. It would be great to see, the rest of your exhaust through the water lock and then as it exits your sailboat. I’m also curious about your anti-siphon valve being in front of the heat exchanger rather than after it. Would love to hear your thoughts on that too. Again, enjoy very much having discovered your channel channel.
Hi Ken. Welcome aboard. The D1-30 has the anti syphon valve in front of the heat exchanger so the raw water in it drains into the water lock. You have to ensure that if you change the original Volvo one to the Vetus type that the water capacity is big enough. We did a video on this a few years ago when we were locked down in Italy. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
@@SVImpavidus thanks for the response. I would like to see that video. Is it on the channel? Do you remember which one? I’ll look back over whatever is on the channel. Again, great job on the maintenance video. So helpful.
I would check every two years and change to stainless steel after 4 years. They are the same price as the OEM cast iron ones. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Thanks man, great vid! I have an md2020d and water is dripping from the overflow hose to the impeller. I've cleaned the heat exchanger, which looks good. Could it be a clogged up elbow?
Super vidéo , thank you very much I changed the outlet elbow 3 years ago , inside only 1 cm !! . Dangerous . But I think it is better a stainless elbow . There are 2 models , 19mm and 22 mm water enter . What kind have you please , and where is it possible to buy this ? I have a D1 30 B Volvo sail drive like you , in Greece . HR 342 French flag Thank you for all your video , simple to understand and very instructive Sorry for my poor English ( I live in North Brittany )
Nice video. Not had to look yet, but am assuming stainless steel parts aren't that hard to find for various engines ? Best Wishes. Bob in Wales, who could end up with who knows what in my stop gap next Sailboat. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️❤
@@SVImpavidus Wow that's a darned good recommendation, thanks Mate. Best Wishes. Bob. I don't know if you follow Emily and Clark's Channel, he's a good engineer and has designed and builds a brilliant battery bank manager, and he takes a good look inside when testing batteries, and his most recent battery tests, have finally swung me over to Lifepo4 for the House Battery Bank (tbh, I've had really serious doubts about Lithium Batteries and them having to be treated spot on, since my lifepo torch batteries had to be recharged in an explosion proof bag ) but I'll still be sticking with AGM dual Purpose heavy duty liesure batteries for engine start, Anchor Windlass and Bowthruster methinks. Best Wishes, Fair Winds, and Safe Travels. Bob in Wales still. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️❤️
just happen that we thought ours was repaired... and ...now cracked altogether. the cast iron material (MD22) last quit long but is problematic / impossible to properly repair. Stainless is a much better option..
Yes...scary video. We have a few drops of coolant after a sail (about 8hr). It's been 3 years for us. What do you think, I'm I in code red? Or can wait for the end of the seizon. I know, I'm responsible of course, just want to know your opinion. Greetings from the Etanche
If its not showing the other signs listed your probably OK. But you should inspect it at the end of the season. Then every other year as part of your maintenance. Sail Safe Roy. Ant & Cid
you don't seem very fond of Volvo marine diesels. It would be interesting to read about market share between manufacturers; because it seems Volvo gets more complaints online than Yanhmar, etc.
Volvo's are fine. The smaller ones are based on Perkins engines. The issues that VP have are all based around corner cutting for profit and bad engineering practice, to sell more expensive parts. We have compared the VP engines to some of the Yanmars. The Yanmars are better made and designed. But Beta engines are the ones we always recommend. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
I know from other sailors in our club that Yanmars are no better than Volvos. A guy here had to replace his Yanmar elbow after 570 hours. Our old Volvo was perfect after 30 years. Beware the low hour engines used to get boats out to the start lines on race day once a fortnight. Anyhow my Volvo has a plaque on the back proudly stating "Perkins Made in England".
An excellent episode. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.
Glad you enjoyed it. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Hi Ant & Cid. I hope you're both well. I remember the original video you did about exhaust elbows. We changed our exhaust elbow for a stainless steel one and also had our exchanger removed and cleaned in an acid bath. We try really hard to look after our engine and have serviced regularly. So far the engine has never let us down and been extremely reliable. Take care. All the best Daryl &Shirley X.
Hi Guys. As you say it's about keeping on top of the preventative maintenance. Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Super explanation. I had figured much of this out by necessity when one of my heat exchangers developed a hole that looked much like the one you show at 1:27 and after inspecting the elbow. I've now replaced two heat exchangers and two mixing elbows (with stainless steel) as there are two D1-30 engines on my catamaran. It was a significant undertaking and a shocking cost. I'm relatively new to diesel engines and really appreciate your content here particularly because you have the same engine. Thanks.
Glad it helped. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
When I first learned of backflow of salt water into the exhaust manifold I went through a phase of starting with salt water intake turned off, then opening the petcock only after the engine fired up. Then I scratched my head and wondered if the tiny risk was worth the risk of forgetting to turn that petcock back on. Both are serious! Now I only do that when I anticipate trouble starting, or if first efforts to start the engine fail. My elbow is entirely cast iron, I'm surprised that some are made of aluminum. The last boat I saw with a failing coolant elbow was spewing white smoke out with the exhaust. My mechanic mind said head gasket leak, but it was more simple than that. When raw water flow is reduced, the water that does pass through heats to a higher temp, resulting in a steamy mix of exhaust fumes and evaporated water that condenses when it is cooled by outside air.
Exactly mate. The Yanmars seem to fare better but they do have a better rate of raw water flow for a similar size Volvo. I think this helps a lot. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Ant - it’s very good advice you have given. I am sure there are a lot of sailors who just do not realise just how corrosive salt water is, and when acting with heat and the acid products that arise from combustion - it really is an aggressive mix. But your video goes a long way to correcting that. Well done Ant.😀👍
Thanks Norman. Reading the comments it looks like we may have made a few more people aware. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Nice video and explanation Ant. I noticed a drop in exhaust water, followed a few hours later with overheating. I took the elbow off and there was only a tiny hole letting water into the mix. An acid bath revealed holes that I hadn't noticed where the water mixes in. All up it was in very good condition under the carbon, so went on to serve another 4 years before sale day.
Glad your all sorted mate Sail Safe Ant 👍
Great explanation and video guy!
Thank You. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
An excellent, informative video. I think this is my second time watching. For air filter, an adventure project might be cutting it in half with dremel, adding lip, removing filer element and replacing with like cut to size. Secure with two large zip ties. One might as well experiment if you are going to toss it anyway. Thank you for posting.
Glad you enjoyed it!, we are looking doing a mod. When it's done we will do another video. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
A wonderful, excellent explanation. I hope that if you have time, you can explain the elements of the cooling circuit to beginners
There is a couple of videos a while back that explain how the diesel engine works and one just about cooling. Have a look back through our videos I think one of these is exactly what your looking for.
Excellent episode. I recently bought a boat with a Volvo penta D1 20 so I enjoyed the similarity between your engine. Rather than an exhaust elbow like yours mine has an exhaust riser. It’s a solid tube from the raw water exit from the heat exchange right into the elbow. It would be great to see, the rest of your exhaust through the water lock and then as it exits your sailboat. I’m also curious about your anti-siphon valve being in front of the heat exchanger rather than after it. Would love to hear your thoughts on that too. Again, enjoy very much having discovered your channel channel.
Hi Ken. Welcome aboard. The D1-30 has the anti syphon valve in front of the heat exchanger so the raw water in it drains into the water lock. You have to ensure that if you change the original Volvo one to the Vetus type that the water capacity is big enough. We did a video on this a few years ago when we were locked down in Italy. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
@@SVImpavidus thanks for the response. I would like to see that video. Is it on the channel? Do you remember which one? I’ll look back over whatever is on the channel. Again, great job on the maintenance video. So helpful.
Its in this one and one before this too. Back in Italy on board Eternite. th-cam.com/video/O-KQW2gZtko/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HYJ-MX_Oj4YDSZG3
Great video and explanation of the issue. Would you recommend replacing the elbow every 4y or 1000h or is cleaning a viable solution?
I would check every two years and change to stainless steel after 4 years. They are the same price as the OEM cast iron ones. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Thanks man, great vid! I have an md2020d and water is dripping from the overflow hose to the impeller. I've cleaned the heat exchanger, which looks good.
Could it be a clogged up elbow?
It could well be. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
Super vidéo , thank you very much
I changed the outlet elbow 3 years ago , inside only 1 cm !! . Dangerous .
But I think it is better a stainless elbow . There are 2 models , 19mm and 22 mm water enter . What kind have you please , and where is it possible to buy this ? I have a D1 30 B Volvo sail drive like you , in Greece . HR 342 French flag
Thank you for all your video , simple to understand and very instructive
Sorry for my poor English ( I live in North Brittany )
Nice video. Not had to look yet, but am assuming stainless steel parts aren't that hard to find for various engines ? Best Wishes. Bob in Wales, who could end up with who knows what in my stop gap next Sailboat. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️❤
The elbows are easy to find on ebay and are even cheaper than the OEM parts. Ours has now done 5 years and is clean as a whistle.
@@SVImpavidus Wow that's a darned good recommendation, thanks Mate. Best Wishes. Bob. I don't know if you follow Emily and Clark's Channel, he's a good engineer and has designed and builds a brilliant battery bank manager, and he takes a good look inside when testing batteries, and his most recent battery tests, have finally swung me over to Lifepo4 for the House Battery Bank (tbh, I've had really serious doubts about Lithium Batteries and them having to be treated spot on, since my lifepo torch batteries had to be recharged in an explosion proof bag ) but I'll still be sticking with AGM dual Purpose heavy duty liesure batteries for engine start, Anchor Windlass and Bowthruster methinks. Best Wishes, Fair Winds, and Safe Travels. Bob in Wales still. 👍⛵️✨️✨️✨️❤️
We had an elbow fail as you say a major engine re build luckly the block was OK now we replace every four years
A lucky escape. Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
just happen that we thought ours was repaired... and ...now cracked altogether. the cast iron material (MD22) last quit long but is problematic / impossible to properly repair. Stainless is a much better option..
We checked our ss elbow 2 weeks ago. Its now been on there 5 years and its "as new" still. Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Yes...scary video. We have a few drops of coolant after a sail (about 8hr). It's been 3 years for us. What do you think, I'm I in code red? Or can wait for the end of the seizon. I know, I'm responsible of course, just want to know your opinion. Greetings from the Etanche
If its not showing the other signs listed your probably OK. But you should inspect it at the end of the season. Then every other year as part of your maintenance. Sail Safe Roy. Ant & Cid
@@SVImpavidus tnx. Yes it shows that I have to check this every other year. I let you know how it looks like when the elbow is out 👍👍🍷🍷🌞🌞
you don't seem very fond of Volvo marine diesels. It would be interesting to read about market share between manufacturers; because it seems Volvo gets more complaints online than Yanhmar, etc.
Volvo's are fine. The smaller ones are based on Perkins engines. The issues that VP have are all based around corner cutting for profit and bad engineering practice, to sell more expensive parts. We have compared the VP engines to some of the Yanmars. The Yanmars are better made and designed. But Beta engines are the ones we always recommend. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid
I know from other sailors in our club that Yanmars are no better than Volvos. A guy here had to replace his Yanmar elbow after 570 hours. Our old Volvo was perfect after 30 years. Beware the low hour engines used to get boats out to the start lines on race day once a fortnight. Anyhow my Volvo has a plaque on the back proudly stating "Perkins Made in England".