Diesel engine problems on your sailboat?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 เม.ย. 2019
- We look at one of the biggest problems with leisure boat diesel engines.
We explain why and show you the fix.
Pass the knowledge on.
Welcome to our channel.
Please visit our website. www.svimpavidus.com/
2018 we left the UK to sail around the world slowly. After Brexit, a "Pandemic" and major heart surgery we are still sailing, documenting our travels and showing you what we have learned so far.
We are hoping to complete our journey, and travel right around the world even if we have had a few setbacks along the way. We will continue at our own pace and that may be fast or slow. We want to be sure not to miss anything and have stories to tell our grandchildren when we are old and grey.
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![Boat DIESEL ENGINE Hacks & Oil Change [Capable Cruising]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Sf02o0VyTwA/mqdefault.jpg)
Really good. Awesome engine bay. I have seen others replace cast iron elbows with stainless, but i hear there is little or no advantage to it as stainless needs air flow to stay "stainless". I'd like your opinions and viewpoints. I will be the first to say that is only what I have heard, and I know nothing about it one way or another. Just thought I would broach the subject for conversation.
Ed, Thanks for watching. The engine bay is, to me so very important. If its dirty, full of water, oil and general gack, you are never going to see where something is leaking or where a problem originates. We are just doing a raw water pump renovation and you will see in the next video how we clean the pump and even respray it so that we can determine in the future if we have a leak. It is good practice and personally I would encourage anyone to get in and clean it up. It also give you a better working environment and your not getting covered in gack as you work. The stainless elbow is made from 316L stainless steel. This will not . stop the carboniseation or the build up of calcium deposits over time. The best you can do is to drive your engine hard for a few minutes before you run it at tickover and then shut it down. Diesels, (and petrols need to be worked) With marine diesels they never get as hot around the manifold and exhaust that vehicle engines do. Its this that is the problem. The carbon and limescale deposits never fully burn off. If they block the injection elbow in the right (or wrong) place it is very easy for water thats in the raw water hoses to literally run into the exhaust manifold. If an exhaust valve is ope and the boat heals the chances are that the salt water will enter the combustion chamber, damaging the valves, rings and getting into the oil as it passes the rings. It could conceivably cause the engine to go hydrolic. Where the volume of sea water exceeds the volume of air at top dead centre. Liquids cannot be compressed and as a result the piston forces the valves shut and the connection rod down. The result is a broken con rod and this normally means the small end breaking through the cylinder wall or block. Which is terminal! You will need to inspect the injection elbow if it is SS when you get to..... Say 800 hours run. The difference is you can acid clean it out and its generally good as new. Now heres a spoiler, Keep your eyes open for SV Compromises videos. We are good friends with this lovely family they have just removed their exhaust elbow. Nuff said! I hope this covers any questions but, we are here to help out wherever we can. Its great to get such interest and we hope it helps. Sail Safe. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Ed PM us on Facebook we have an update that may interest you. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus I took a look at that, and that was incredible how bad that was. That wasn't from your friends boat that was supposed to do it the next day was it?
@@edrussell7960 The boat is 3 boats down, Pete and Tina on "Elizabeth". They have a new heat exchanger now and the exhaust will turn up Monday. They were very lucky that it did not go at sea or in a place it was difficult to get spares. Ant.
@@edrussell7960 It was Peter and Tina's. I have updated the next video now ed to show the whole story. Best regards Ant.
Just replace the filter with a commercial one and you're done. 50 pounds is a lot for a piece of plastic. Great video.
Yep we are looking at something this winter. The problem we have found is the box stops the reverb from the induction noise. We tried a K&N type filter it was very noisy. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe. Ant
Eexcellent instructions and explanations. THANK YOU
As promised, we'll be binge watching your videos this winter as we tackle our end of season jobs list! Thanks for sharing.. all really useful information and clearly explained :)
Have a great christmas guys. Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
Great video , very informative, great you’re helping fellow sailors .
Shaun. Many thanks your comment sums it up in one! That's what we are about. Corny? No, we just want to help others to enjoy the sailing life and share what we know and find out. Its not about hits, subscribers or views, (although it would be nice) its about helping out the sailing community to do stuff themselves. And we are always here to help if its needed............ Sail safe. Ant
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing) Ant for me that’s what Utube channels should be about not just stunning locations ( although there great ) but guys like you passing on you’re knowledge for everyone’s benefit I think is fantastic, so a big thumbs up 👍 from me .
I am going through this problem with my Universal M-25 and your video is simply amazing!! Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching Brian. Lots of other bits of info, tips and tricks on our channel. Enjoy Sail Safe. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
thanks so much for explaining it so well!!!
John, Thank you for watching. Glad you enjoyed it. Sail Safe, Ant & Cid
Excellent video. Clear description and instructions from someone who really knows what they are talking about.
Many thanks. Glad you enjoyed it. Sail Safe guys. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Learning loads thank you.
Elizabeth the boat 3 down from us took their off manifold of and it fell apart. the heat exchanger was also toast. Basically it was all being held together by coke and limescale. Luck he was checking and it did not go at sea or go hydrolic! Sail Safe Stuart, Thanks for watching. Working of a top tips video at the moment as folks seem to love them! Regards Ant.
Excellent explanation and a great video
Nick. Thank you so much. It makes it worth while when we get such great feedback. `your a gentleman and a scholar sir. Ant.
Informative--thank you for posting!
Glad it was helpful! Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Very much appreciated info thanks
Glad it was helpful! Sail Safe.
Very interesting video, i don’t know much about engines but it was interesting to watch!
Many thanks. Ant.
Top Tip regarding torque wrench improvisation and I think you're quite right, many problems with engines overheating can be traced back to the exhaust elbow.
On another subject, 10:37 be careful leaning over any rotating equipment, loose clothing and necklaces can quickly be drawn in with disastrous results.
I had a lucky escape as a child when my tie got dragged into an industrial lathe with me attached. Just as my face was about to be smashed into the rotating machinery my tie snapped and I fell backwards into the arms of my very shaken teacher. I can still remember (I'm 63) looking up and seeing my tie going round and round in the still running lathe.
Absolutely. I ran a 36in lathe at home before we sold up. It was drummed into us as apprentices, roll your sleeves up, tuck your tie in and no jewelry. If you left a chuck key in the lathe you got a beating! Oh the good old days 😉Thanks for watching. Ant
I bought my boat with an already damaged Volvo MD2020B due to exhaust elbow and water flowing back and damaging the head. Total engine rebuild, new head and I fitted a stainless high riser elbow to ensure no possible back flow. It has worked a treat and gives me piece of mind. I have heard of stainless elbows being on Volvos for many years so not aware of any corrosion issues. Andy UK
Thanks Andy. Quite right there are no issues with 316 stainless exhaust elbows fitted to the volvos Its just Volvo dont fit them or they would never sell all those cast iron ones and all the bits for damaged engines, which they do 😉
That engine bay is a well-kitted, very tidy thing of beauty, and your various 'why's' explanations help to explain why you keep it that way, very well. Perhaps a catch-up/follow-up video with your responses to your various videos comments might be in order some time?
For those unfortunately caught without an exhaust elbow, or don't want to pay for an expensive one, Julius on Sailing Emerald Steel fabricated his own out of generic parts found most anywhere, and it has worked out very well over the long term, too.
You have now joined him as sources of good information--thank you.
Can't wait for you to run out of meaningful, helpful, interesting, money-saving topics and start frolicking around with Cid--both in bikinis, of course! Kidding!!! I appreciate how you are all about sharing your adventures and contributing to our 'hive' knowledge. Good on you.
Thanks John. Good points made well We have a plan to do a question and answers video. Emerald steel is a great channel we watch them every time a new video comes out. The have so much experience and its great that it is being passed on. Sail Safe.
I have equivalent 2010 and had exhaust made up in large swan neck to avoid syphoning. The water inlet comes in just below the top of the swan neck. It is made of copper and brazed together. The water inlet was swept into the down slope rather than right angle. Been ok since 2007 but very low use.
👍 Thanks for watching.
(Baz) Really very informative, this is my mission for tomorrow. Dreading what I will find.
Update, if you go for a stainless steel replacement find a cast stainless steel one as they last even longer than the welded stainless ones. Easy to get in Aus and the states difficult to get in the UK. Ant.
@@SVImpavidus we're currently in Greece, so postage costs will come into play. There's a guy in the UK that sells the HDI Marine elbows. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264401430693
Thanks for another great video Ant,something we can all give forward to future DIY sailors.A question on the SS elbow install,your facing SS onto another metal that’s dissimilar separated only by the gasket.Is the gasket just a standard gasket run of the mill or due to dissimilar metals needs to be a special gasket.
Thanks very much .Also any tips re Monastir marina? We’re heading there July - sept for reset.Cheers Nige.
Hi Guys. The Gasket is the insulator between the Aluminium and the Stainless. The only connection electrically is the 4 M8 studs. The SS is less reactive than the cast iron original and will last a lot longer. But you still need to inspect every two years or so. Monastir was OK. We did a few videos from there. It is an African country and very different to Europe. But prices are better and the weather warmer. Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
Thank you for this video I have never had a problem with the yanmar on my westerly cirrus. I don't know anything about diesel motors so am reluctant to use it as it sat on a trailer for 30 years And was way too easy to get going. ( too good to be true kinda thing) It seems to have the symptoms that you describe.
Easy to check while out the water Scott. Love Westerly's. We had a Griffon years ago. Its in the titles either a the beginning or end I can't remember :-) Sail Safe. Thanks for watching. Ant.
Good job!
Thanks for watching. Ant.
Thanks 😊
No problem 😊
So good
Thank you. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Thanks Ant
Your a YT star David! £10 says your posting in a year or less! Ant
@@SVImpavidus Don't hold your breath mate lol
You can just use a straight exhaust elbow, then a straight piece of pipe with a tee where water is injected. It would cost 10 dollars instead of few hundred. And available almost anywhere. Good informative video
Yes you could but you would then need to insulate the straight length and ensure it points downwards to the muffler/water jacket. The existing design has a water jacket that keeps it cool which is part of the problem. The carbon never gets hot like a car exhaust and burns off. But you dont want a red hot exhaust in your engine bay... Thanks for watching. Ant
Great video- thanks! It seemed like the raw water intake into the elbow is pretty close to the exhaust. Would it be better to be further away to minimize injected water going retrograde? Is there a downside to the raw water entering a bit further downstream?
Yes your quite right. Injecting the water further down the exhaust is better but causes the exhaust before the injection point to be much hotter. This helps burn off the carbon but means the exhaust before the injection needs to be well insulated and can be a bit of a fire hazard on a smaller boat. But other engine manufacturers seem to have the issue solved and use better materials. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Thanks useful info for my SAAB 10 HP from 1972 ear same age as my project boat bouight dirt cheap a 27 foot 1972 deep keel 3/4 with a skeg rudder weight 3.5 tons heavy heavy for that size modern boats with water ballast same size often weight 1.5 to 2 tons so mine needs the inboard for winds below force four ha ha
Hi, Enjoy your sailing and thanks for watching. New video out this week will be part 4 of our boat electrics made easy. Hope your interested. Sail safe . Ant & Cid x
Thanks a mill for this video. I just changed my elbow based on your video and it was completely clogged. Would have shared a picture but that is not possible in the comments section. The engine has only 500 hours on the clock
Glad it is of use to you Lars. Be sure to watch our other videos. There quite a few that you may find of use. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus for sure. Just subscribed to your channel a couple of weeks back and there are so many useful information 👍👍👍
Good video guys. I have a Volvo Penta 2002 and after eliminating everything else in the cooling system that could have been the cause of poor water flow it turned out to be a blocked exhaust elbow. Gave up on trying to clean it (and glad I did) and bought a new one. Now its sweet as a nut and I'm getting more than 10% more power and no overheating issues.
Agree with the other comment - great looking engine bay. Question - did you fit/replace the insulation foam yourself ? if so and there's a video please send the link. Cheers.
Hi Simon. So glad you (and others) have sorted the elbows on your engine. We get so many PM's from people and happy stories. THe engine bay was pre insulated when we bought Impavidus. Where we added the parts shelf and put the coolant header up higher we had to cut through some of it. However, it was easy to buy foil tape from a DIY store to re trim the edges. You can get this product herewww.force4.co.uk/force-4-acoustic-class-o-insulation-silver-faced-box-of-4.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwk93rBRBLEiwAcMapUTbXTrqln__ZWQnMjHKI05Q6CYwfeuSR9WtAhaj2jHszMigAvXNaMxoC0nEQAvD_BwE
We are sure there are other suppliers local to you.
Sail safe. Ant & Cid
I had the same experience with my VP 2002 just now Simon. Does anyone know if it's possible to damage an impeller with the presumed build up of pressure in the raw water system when the mixing elbow is blocked to the point of no water flow out the exhaust? Before discovering my blockage, a one week old impeller (six vanes, small impeller) threw a single vane.....?
going to check mine
I went to check mine, and at the same time at the exterior there is nothing apparent or a little over heating, nothing at all
Did you check inside the water injection point?
Thanks for the video, it was very informative. I've heard that stainless steel drives electrolytic erosion when connected to a cast engine block. Have you heard anything about this?
Hi Andrew. Thanks for watching, we love to read all our comments. Here is my take on your question. The heat exchanger/manifold is cast aluminium and this is connected to the cast iron cylinder head via the manifold bolts. (Through the manifold) The bolts are in a dry connecting tube so there is no water or medium for electrolysis take place. The stainless steel elbow is connected by 4 studs to the aluminium heat exchanger/manifold and isolated by a fibre gasket. Again this is a dry area. For electrolysis to take place there would need to be water connecting the elbow, exhaust manifold, and elbow. What does happen is that as the cast iron elbows rot and the carbon builds up, a bridge is formed between the cast iron elbow and the aluminium exhaust manifold/heat exchanger. The bridge is over the elbows gasket, inside the elbow. Cast iron and aluminium are a long way apart on the galvanic table so there is a reaction if the carbon build up and the rust inside are wet with salt water, as the elbow starts to clog. The reaction is generally at the base of the exhaust manifolds outlet to the elbow. Once this bridge is made the process will develop quite rapidly inside. The aluminium being the more reactive will deteriorate quicker through to the engine coolant in the exchanger. This will then start to leak into the exhaust or more likely the high pressure in the exhaust will leak into the coolant system blowing the cap from the coolant filler or the seals of the heat exchanger stack. The stainless steel used for the elbows is 316L which is a passive metal. There is still a reaction between it and aluminium if they are both submerged or in contact via salt water. Although this will be very much less than the cast iron elbows. The key here is salt water, and making sure that the carbon buildup does not allow the salt water to make that bridge. The advantage is that the stainless steel elbow may still carbon up but it will not rust. An acid dip every few years will completely remove the carbon. So it is definitely a better option than the cast iron elbows. However, you still need to check it periodically. Hope this helps. Sail Safe! Ant.
@@SVImpavidus Thanks Ant. It's a great explanation; I hadn't considered the heat exchanger casing being aluminium.
I actually had the elbow changed on our MD2040 when I bought our boat two years ago. I didn't see the old elbow, but the symptoms were that the engine would not go above 2500 rpm. I just stood back and asked the previous owner to sort it out and he called a Volvo Engineer in. I didn't realise until now how common the issue is.
BTW: We have a different air filter - no box enclosure, just the raw filter to wash every service
@@andrewjenkins7783 I am working on a design that replaces the air box and has a changeable filter. Something like the 2020, 2030 and 2040 have. But with a silencer to help with the induction noise. I will post something when its done. Thanks for watching Andrew. Ant.
Probably one of the most overlooked overheating problems!
Thanks for watching Richard.
Hi Ant. Wonderful video and very informative. I've had the exhaust elbow on my list for a while but have just upped it to a higher priority. Unfortunately, there were four versions of the exhaust elbow offered for our Yanmar 4JH2-DTE turbo diesel, and being a total idiot I have pics of every imaginable angle on our engine except for the exhaust/turbo area (the genset blocks easy picture taking there). This means I have to actually order the part once I'm back in Greece and deal with the Greek postal system. Did you ever see the Delos episode where Brian pulls his and the actual mixing tube is completely disintegrated and filled with carbon? I think that a drill mounted wire wheel/brush would help with cleaning those old elbows up. Also, since they're castings I suspect the insides would be a bit dimpled even when new. Perhaps not as bad as it looks in comparison to the stainless version. Finally, it's worth mentioning that one of the fastest ways to destroy a marine diesel is to keep cranking the engine when it isn't starting. If you do this, there's no exhaust pressure to move the water through the exhaust. The raw water pump keeps feeding water and it backs up into the exhaust manifold. When you stop cranking, this water will enter whatever exhaust valve is open, adding water to the cylinder. Next time you crack, it'll hydrolock. Oyster recommends closing the raw water seacock if you can't get the engine or genset started, then be ready to open it right quick once it kicks.
Talk to Phil on Bora La. He has direct experience.
Yes we saw the delos vid. We have had 3 people thank us after they inspected theirs and there was a problem. UK has now sold out of stainless elbows. we should have been on commision :-) A big water lock helps with the starting but like you say, shut the raw water off if its not starting. Sail Safe Ant.
Great video thanks. Some years back I once had my almost new Volvo 30, after a 5 hour long slog back through a slamming chop, suddenly splutter, lose power and let go clouds of white vapour ( steam obviously ) from the exhaust! Wtf was my initial reaction as you would expect. I turned off the engine, restarted it, and within a minute it was running smooth, clean and never ever did it again. Shortly after I got the service guy in and he looked it over and the best he could offer was a scratch of the head and a skeptical look when I said no to his question, “ Are you sure it wasn’t Black smoke? “ 🤣 I’ve always wondered what caused it. Water got into a cylinder(s) I’d guess, given the loss of power and very rough running, but how and why is still a mystery. This was a new Bavaria 33 with I think the same motor as yours, with probably only 30 hours on the clock. Any ideas? Cheers
Sounds strange Robin perhaps an air lock in the raw water temporarily stopped the cooling I have seen this happen with a plastic bag tangled on a sail drive. When it un-locked it would have caused some steaming. But not enough heat to set the overheat alarm in the coolant? Sail Safe. Ant
Thanks for the video guys,
We changed our old exhaust elbow for a new one on recommendation from Volvo mechanic on our 2009 Bavaria .
Think it was around 350 Euro for new one so simply not Worth the problems should it fail suddenly .
Just subscribed to your channel during our first season cruising the med
Fantastic please keep them coming 👍👍👍
Thanks for the subscription guys. What Bavaria are you sailing and where are you? We have just arrived in Baie de Canebiers. 43°16'03.0"N 6°39'50.0"E
We had a nightmare trip even though the winds were brilliant and the weather great. The power boats and superyachts were putting big swells our way and not giving us right of way until the last moment. While the anchorage is beautiful we have spent the last 5 hours being thrown around as they head back into Saint-Tropez. To cout their money :-) In the bays along the coast here the boats do slow right down But the wash fromm the big yachts can be up to a metre even half a mile away. We are just catching up on some of our favorite channels while we have good wifi. Sail Safe Ant, Cid and the pooch crew!
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing) Hi guys ,sorry to hear about your anchorage, my partner Pauline particularly suffers when rolling around :( and guessing cid and wee doggies may be the same .
We bought a 2009 Bavaria 34 last year and are carrying out various improvements best we can lol . Mid July at Porto Pollensa during a storm while on anchor ball 2am we were struck several times from unmanned boats .
Luckily only a injured foot my side and some shredded nerves both sides 😎 .
Kind regards
Colin
@@colinbeattie6826 Very capable boat Colin. We had a 32 /2004 for 12 years we loved it!
I recently got a sailboat that has a Volvo penta Md2b. The previous owner had the engine running just fine when he owned it, but it hadn’t been ran in 4 or 5 years. After months of struggling to figure out why it wouldn’t start I figured out he had installed a timer. That definitely explained some of the problems I was having. But I still am struggling to get it started and keep it running. I have looked over several things including; rebuilding the high and low pressure pumps, I’m pretty positive the fuel is getting to the injectors. It is also super hard to hand crank. I am now working on the electrical system. I am hoping someone out there has some knowledge of this engine and it’s electrical system and is willing to maybe give me a few pointers. Thank you, from a couple trying to go boating;)
Hi. From your description it sounds like the fuel pump is sucking in air between the tank and the fuel line to the injector pump. or the fuel is not getting through to the pump in enough quantity. (posible diesel bug) Has the boat been sitting around for a long while not in use? If so I would suspect that as you have started to try to use it the tank has been stirred up and fuel bug is restricting the lines. The symptoms are that the engine starts but will not rev and searches for fuel almost stalling before picking up again. Check the primary filter for black sludge if these are the symptoms. The other thing it could be is fuel starvation due to the fuel lines having an air leak and sucking in air. This often happens on the Md2b as the lift pump has a seal on the top of it that breaks down after time. If the engine will actually start and run for even just a short time then your problem is definitely fuel related. Diesels only need compression, air and fuel. so its getting air, it has compression it must be fuel. Let us know how you get on. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
I changed mine recently, mines the riser type, the waterway was blocked causing big pressure in the rubber boot before the heat exchanger and seawater was getting into the coolant there was a constant stream of seawater water coming out of the coolant overflow pipe,
Glad you caught it in time. Don't forget to look at some of our other videos and visit our website. There are lots of useful things there too. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus
Cheers mate, I'll check it out 👍
Acid is mentioned as a (temporary?) fix for the elbow. As I understand, it will loosen up the carbon build-up inside the exhaust elbow. In my case the problem also seems to be corrosion in the longer water passage inside the elbow. I used a small, strong and flixible steel thread (a windscreen wiper steel stabilizer that runs on both side of the wiper rubber) and pushed&pulled it inside the elbow from beneath to remove deposits and corrosion after having removed the elbow from the engine. I think acid will make the steel corrode faster afterwards. I'd rather spray some thin oil into the water passage mentioned above in order to protect it during storing in winter time when the water not present there. Please comment, anyone - if this is a good idea or not. Thanks again for your time and effort on his topic!
Hi Tom. The issue is 3 fold. First there is the carbon buildup that does not get burnt off as the elbow does not get hot like it would on a car or truck. this builds up inside the elbow reducing the exhaust gas flow. Second is the calcium buildup in the water galleries and specifically the injection point. This reduces the water flow into the elbow. The third is the elbow is cast iron. The buildup of the the first two helps water to be held within the elbow rotting the cast quicker than it would if it was in the open air. The combination of these means that the elbow rots from the inside. the carbon and calcium need to be removed internally which is very difficult to do if the cast iron is rotten, without doing damage to the casting some folks use brick acid or similar to do this which attacks the calcium and carbon but only cleans the surface of the cast iron. It is not a robust fix and will need to be done every two years or so depending on engine use and where you sail. Oil on the cast iron will only protect it until the salt water washes it out or the exhaust gasses blow it down the exhaust into the sea. Cast Iron does not have the right properties to do the job you want the elbow to do. and changing to Stainless eliminates one of the 3 problems. It's not a cure all. Hope this helps. Sail Safe. Ant .
Great video thank you have you ever used a Dremel to try and clean up the inside at all?
Mark. Yes by the time you get through the carbon you find the cast iron has rotted away under it. Some times you can get away with brick acid dip but the injection point hole gets so small and delicate its really time to change it. Best regards Ant.
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing) I see thanks much
Do you think a repair workshop can insert a new waterpipe (water injection point hole) into the elbow?. Thx for the video!
@@tomhummel2641 I was so badly rotted it would not have taken the heat. Thanks for watching. Ant.
SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing) , I see that in your case. But generally, before it gets too corroded? The top of my water tube on the elbow corrode on 1/4 of the circle and is getting shorter.
So I understand the water jacket for cooling the exhaust gases, but why the need to actually inject water into the exhaust flow? How does this benefit operation of the engine?
Also, on boats where the exhaust pipe vents vertically out the top of the boat (stack), do these use the same water jacket/injection setup?
The exhaust pipe is a rubber hose that passes through the boat. If the exhaust wasn't cooled by water, the rubber hose would burn due to the hot exhaust gases. The water also absorbs and blocks the exhaust noise.
Thats a really good question! On a car or truck the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe is cooled by the air that passes around the vehicle as it moves or is dispersed by convection. Thats why the car or truck gets hot floors or panels when sitting in traffic.. On a boat with a water injected exhaust the exhaust pipe or line remains cool a much lower temperature. Because of the injected water. Under high loads engines produce huge amounts of heat through the exhaust. Manifolds and exhausts can glow red hot! On a boat there is no way air can cool this heat because the manifold and exhaust is within the boat. Water injection ensures that the exhaust line and the manifold remains cool. Much bigger boats have hot exhaust lines where the hot gasses are exhausted through a stack and these are insulated from the boats structure. but are also insulated throughout their length with a double skin to the exhaust point so no heat is transfered back to the boat. The problem is all about the heat exhaust gasses contain and how best to cool them in the exhaust or get them away so that they dont cause red hot glowing pipework. A good question and thanks for the comment. Hope our explanation makes sense. Sail Safe. Ant & Cid xx
is there an issue w/corrosion by attaching stainless to the steel engine block.... is there a gasket that prevents direct contact....also do you use stainless steel bolts?
Lars. There is no issue with 316l stainless. The elbow bolts with steel studs to the heat exchanger not the engine block, which is cast aluminium. This area should be dry as its before the water injection point. When the cast iron ones dissolve and clog water then gets into the exhaust chamber of the heat exchanger. Thats a real big problem. If you watch the next video you can see what happens on a friends boat. Here is a link; th-cam.com/video/n2xlr6FIzcc/w-d-xo.html . Regards Ant.
@@SVImpavidus brilliant - thanks!
s in your video I did not see any exhaust riser and the elbow was pointing downward?
Steven. Yes it points down to the water lock
How does the exhaust elbow prevent/avoid backwash of seawater into the manifold? As in your video I did not see any exhaust riser and the elbow was pointing downward
More than likely the boat is equipped with a water-lift muffler which allows for placement of engines below the waterline. This along with the vented loop on his sea water supply line prevents water ingress.
Steven. After the elbow the wet exhaust goes down below the water line to a muffler / waterlock. It then goes up to a goose neck that is about 4 feet above the waterline, and back down to just above the waterline. Where it comes out. Any water before the goose neck when we switch the motor off drains down to the muffler / Waterlock and is captured and held. Any after the goose neck is drained to the outlet. If the outlet goes below the water when sailing it can not go past the high point in the exhaust ie the goose neck. Most Volvos and other marine diesels are set up this way until you get to the bigger engines and boats. Thanks for watching. Ant.
Ah, this is similar to diagrams I have seen online... your videos are a tremendous help, you will make a deisel mechanic out of me yet! Thanks@@SVImpavidus
@@stevenshannon6384 Thanks so much we love the feedback and chatting to subscribers when we have internet. Great sail today. A close beat then a long downwind sail of twenty miles or so. We put a short video on our facebook page "Impavidus Ontheboat". Thanks for watching and the comments. Sail safe Steven. Ant.
I'm new to the channel. What kind of boat is Impavidus? I didn't find any info with details on her.
Welcome aboard! Impavidus is a Farr designed Bavaria 37. From 2015. We bought her new and spent 2 years adding improvements. 11.3 mtrs long; she has been heavily modified and added too. She is a quick lady, fast and very sea kindly compared to most modern designs. We did a couple of boat tours in our early days but we really should do a couple of updates that show the changes we have made. As well as the mistakes we made in the early days, things we thought we would need but never used. And things we never thought of but now use daily. :-) Thank you for your comments. If there is anything you would like to see or know more about just let us know. Sail Safe. Ant and Cid + the pooch crew. xx
@@SVImpavidus She's a beautiful boat. Looking forward to following your journey.
@@christinec1928 Glad to have you aboard!
Fixed this problem a while ago on a friends boat, the elbow was completely rotted away and almost fully blocked both water and exhaust. His only symptom however was white smoke out of the exhaust after running a while.
I guess the lack of cooling water flow, insufficiently cooled the exhaust gas and turned the water into steam.
Koffi, yest correct. The main symptom is black sooty smoke and a lack of power. So glad you were able to help your friend. Perhaps you should get him to subscribe? 👍Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus
I had already sent him the link :)
All the best!
Can you pull the manifold while in the water?
Corey. Hi Yes you can. Best to drain down the seawater in the hoses and shut off the seacock to the strainer. But its an easy job to do while in the water. Sail Safe.
Is salt water worse than fresh water for built up in the manifold ?
Larry. Yes it is. However while it is much reduced with fresh water the issue of carbon buildup is the same. We are going to do an update soon from all the thanks and pictures we have had from folks all around the world to this video. Not sure when we will be doing it but it will be soon. Hit the subscribe button and your get an update message when the videos come out. Thanks for a good question We hope others will read it. Are you in the lakes or fresh water somewhere? Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
Important: It's hydrochloric acid, not chloric!!! (Reading from Italian description on the bottle). A 20% solution. Having said that, great video.
Thanks John. Good job someone can read Italian . Sail Safe. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.
Question timec: why is water introduced into the exhaust ?
The water is introduced to cool the exhaust pipe otherwise it would get very hot even red hot as it does on a car. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus the water injection seems to create as much trouble as it is supposed to solve. With more modern materials and technologies available today I'm very sure a better solution can be worked out to lower exhaust manifold temperatures. I'll put some thought into it.
While you are on the engine performing this task you should show the viewers the anti siphon break and how it works. I don’t think a lot of people know of this item and where it is located on the motor.
Tood. We know it was a while ago you suggested this but we finally got round to doing the video including the anti-syphon valve. Enjoy. th-cam.com/video/XbqOUXAUxQk/w-d-xo.html
El acero inoxidable no disipa bien el calor y no se utiliza en sistemas de refrigeración ni de escape
cuando el sistema de escape está mal hecho y el motor tiene turbo el turbo se rompe
El silencioso o silenciador de escape tiene que ir debajo de la línea de flotacion antes de la salida tiene que tener un cuello de cisne si es un velero el motor tiene que tener un sifón de descarga y tiene que estar colocado por en encima de la línea de flotacion el cual hay que sustituir cada cierto tiempo si no quieres tener problemas graves
Please forgive my language skills I will try to reply. Por favor perdona mi español. Pero trato de responder en tu lengua nativa.
De acuerdo con todo lo que dices. Mucha gente no entiende lo importante que es todo el sistema de escape. Y crítico para la eficacia del motor y la larga vida. La contrapresión, el flujo de escape restringido y la mala instalación pueden destruir un motor rápidamente. Gracias por sus comentarios. Espero haber entendido los puntos que hace. Vela a salvo. Ant & Cid xx
@@SVImpavidus He says the stainless steel does not dissipate the heat so well and when the exhaust system is not well made and engine has turbo the turbo can fail. Also the silencer has to be below the water line and have a swan neck before the exit, and if it is a sailing boat it should have an anti-siphon valve above the water line if you don't want serious problems. When my Perkins was "revised" by a Spanish mechanic in Barcelona he changed the route of the salt water discharge into the exhaust elbow, lowering it, the engine had no anti-syphon valve and after a time water siphoned into the engine, destroying it hence years later I am still in Barcelona! Great video and thanks for the various explanations.
@@atlantisboliviaorg Yes I google translated it and hes quite right. The volvo is fitted with a big muffler and swan neck. the cooling is about 30% over rated. the problem starts when they clog or rust out which is what the cast iron ones do. Thats bad news about your engine I saw a beta marine engine where the new owner did some mods like that. The water would not compress and the connection rod burst through the crank case! Always fit an anti syphon would be my moto. I hope you get sorted soon. Ant
An idea would be to get someone to 3D print a modified air cleaner box in a manner so you can open it and use a regular exchangeable air filter. (But it needs to be out of a heat resistant durable plastic other than PLA) That said, how many times do you really need to change this filter. The main issue is you can’t see how truly dirty or still clean it is in this stupid black box!
Good points well made! Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Volvo engine spares are eyewatingly expensive especially after adding UK VAT. Years ago I paid over £60.00. for a Volvo engine mount, Identical to the eye as a Jaguar car engine mount £9.65. Legal money generation? Frank Sinatra got it right in his hit song...That's
Life.
Yes Bruce. Just had to pay £56.00 for an air filter for our D1-30F We are looking at an alternative for next time! Ant.
I have a 40 year old Peugeot P4.21 with about 42 HP In my 33 ft Full Keel Sailboat. The Engine has about 1500 Hours on it and runs very good. However I or my Mechanics are una le to fi d any Parts no more. Since I am the 2nd owner and plan to sail from Spain to Alaska I HAve been thinking that I must unfortunateli then bua a new engine where I can get parts as needed. My Mechanic wants me to buy a Volvo Penta D with 50 or even 60 HP. He tells me, that these are the best engines for what I amgoing to do. I want as less as possible electronics and Wlan Stuff on it and things must be able to get fixed by 3rd world mechanics too. Durablle, strong, easy to maintain and quality. I had before Yanmars which I ws happy with, but that was 25 years ago. Couls you give me your toughts for my situation please? THANK YOU ROVER
I would look at the Beta marine diesels. They are far superior to any of the Volvo range. They are based on Kubota engines. Parts are available in remote places. The Beta 50 develops more torque than the volvo and the folks at Beta can help the instal instructions, service packs and much more. The engines have a long waratee and are easy to service. Here is a link betamarine.co.uk/portfolio-item/beta-50/
Regards Ant.
@11:49 - did you mean you don't run your engine hard?
If similar boats were to have worse problems, would that not be from their engines being run harder?
Andrew. All diesels need to be run hard or under load now and then. Particularly marine diesels due to the way they are cooled. Running them with little load or no load causes the bores to glaze and a buildup of carbon on the pistons, valves and in the exhaust or turbo. We always run ours hard for the last 10-20 minutes it is in use to clear these deposits if the engine has been at idle or under a low load for a while. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus I take it that's the last 10-20 minutes before you come into port, or into the anchorage?
Also, where did you get your elbow? From the US, or a guy in NZ?
@@abatesnz Yes last 10-20 mins into port or anchorage. We got ours here. www.keypart.com/stock/861906ss-r
Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
So could somone just clean and reuse the same parts?
Matt yes provided the O rings are not too badly compressed. Warm water soaking them and then a check to ensure they are good.The seal is a critical and we have heard of issues on some engines where they leak even from new so a good inspection and make sure they are in the correct position with no muck on them and well lubricated so they seat properly. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
@@SVImpavidus thanks for the info, don't want to drop the money to replace my injection elbow for stainless steel so I will just acid clean, replace any corroded nuts and bolts and stretched o rings , brush clean and wash and dry and re install the old cast iron elbow as is?
I will gess most of the problem comes with how most people run there engines since most start them and let them idle 20-25 minuts before they take of thats the way to kill any engine a diesel or any newer motor you start and use under load after 10-15 sec. just don´t run the rpm up before the engine /oil gets around50-60 degree celcius ,
that clocked exhaust is seen on every car that has been owned by elder people who only drive around with max 40 km/t when the used car dealer want to get rit of a car. not trying to offend anyone just an obsavasion over 40 years
Yes Dennis! They need to be run hard for a while. It helps. Sail Safe. Ant & Cid.
Dennis, you disagree with the Volvo Penta user's manual? 5 minutes warming up at idle rpm is the instruction there.
@@tomhummel2641 Good point well made. Tom, If I read this right? Dennis agrees with the warming cycle but is advocating running a diesel hard under load once warm. Is that right Dennis? Here are our thoughts. Older mineral oils need to be warmed before putting under load as the molecular structure of mineral oil is spherical and has less less adhesion properties. Modern Synthetic oils have a flat plate structure and better adhesion properties to metal. So they do perform better over a wider temperature range. However. The marine diesel Has dissimilar metals that have a coefficient of thermal expansion that is discililar. (some metals expand more or quicker than others) In which case, you are both right In a way. The engine needs to be up to temperature but at some point run hard to burn off carbon deposits. This is what we do and we have 35 years with never an engine failure. And a sound and powerful engine when we sold the boat on. Sail Safe guys, Ant, Cid & the Pooch crew.
Tom I can see your latest post but for some reason YT wont let me get to it. It's about sacrificial anodes in raw water systems on marine diesels? Can you re post it against the video? so I can comment? Thanks mate. Ant
@@tomhummel2641 nope that wasn´t what i said but you could probably just start and go after a few minuts as long as you be aware of running the engine atlest until you reach working temp. and that will take around 20-30 minuts on land you have startet diesel engines and drive after ten sec. the last 40 years with out any isue as long as you remember lower speed to start with and reach working temp. this thing with idling ½ - 1 hour is just killing the engine
Stainless steel will burn out sorry much quicker that’s why they they don’t make them
Eric you are mistaken look at these.
www.parts4engines.com/volvo-penta-d1-30-stainless-steel-exhaust-outlet-kit/
repowermarine.com/v834hdi.html
www.marineparts.eu/spare-parts/va-inboards/volvo-penta/engine-parts/diesel-models/products/exhaust-elbow-stainless-for-volvo-penta-2010-2020-2030-2040-d1-d2-orb16750/
hdimarine.net/product/volvo-penta-v834-mixing-elbow/
www.ebay.com/itm/234421291374
www.swedenmarineparts.com/spare-parts/inboards/volvo-penta/engine-parts/diesel-models/products/exhaust-elbow-stainless-for-volvo-penta-2010-2020-2030-2040-d1-d2-sed3090900/
Thats a few to start with.