Awesome hack!!!!! I just had an estimate for a heater core replacement for my wife’s 2013 Chrysler 200 POS and they wanted $1200!!! I said hell to the no, to the no, no, no!!! Freaking ridiculous because it’s a common problem with these cars because of sand left in the water jackets from casting. It should be a recall but of course it’s not. Thumbs up for a great instructional video.
Thank you sir you have really save me Bunches of time I work in the shop this is the second 200 heater core that I have installed in the last month thank you again
Note: My heating performance was poor, taking several minutes to get warm, and I could smell coolant through the vents (Suspected leak in core) After doing this I found the old core did in fact have a leak, and I could feel heat within seconds of starting the engine. After warmed up, the heat was much hotter than before, clearly the old core was clogged.
Thanks so much! I'm hoping a core flush will fix my heater, at least for this coming winter, but now I see that it's actually possible for me to replace the whole heater core if I have to. It's a pity Chrysler made things so dang hard to get at, to repair/replace!
Well just did mine today took 3hrs BC so little room from my grinder and the hoses not wanting to go on but after all nice warm heat (v6 model) thank you
Hey man just a tip for your video... I found it easier to put the hose pieces n clamps on the heater core before sliding it in... The less time doing things in that hole the better.... And the pipes coming from the engine compartment move forward and back a Lil giving u the play to get on them... Cut ur hose sections just a touch longer than u think... And lube up the ends of ur hose to help it slide on better... Also a small flat head will help when trying to get the hose over the cut pipes.... Thanks for ur help banged it out last night in about 2 hrs going slow n careful having never done one!
Hey Jacob! It was only about 20 degrees the day I did that, the hoses would only cooperate going the direction that I put them on first, because of how quickly they would become rigid. But yeah if you can spend less time under there, then by all means do what works best for you. Haha. Glad to hear you got it done, good work man!
One of the best videos on this! Glad you laid out the parts at 1:20 and told us the diameters. I have had quotes of 1-2K dollars for this job in Ohio. Mark a heater inlet hose to the corresponding firewall inlet so you don't reverse them...just saying. To make sure you don't cut what your not suppose to, place a piece of metal behind the tubes...just in case...and put a towel down on the floor for a few drips of coolant. Also, I'll be using an oscillator cutting tool . Suggestion: You might want to just try blowing out the core first and use the CHRYSLER specific coolant, then do this. BTW: I also just changed the thermostat as they are notorious evil in the 200....easy fix on a lift.
Going to give this a shot in my wife’s 2012 Dodge Avenger 3.6. We live in AZ and have the same issue but it does the opposite when the AC is turned on (cold air out passenger vents, ambient air out driver’s side). Everything I have read online points to the heater core being the problem. Hoping this does the trick to save a grand or two.
What would your recommendation be to check next if this did not fix my issue? I already replaced the blend door actuator before trying this. Still having the same issue.
Awesome... I just did mine. Works great now. I used 2 clamps at each end, for a total of 8 clamps. Just to be double safe from leaks. :-). I found that using 3 1/2" hose like you stated was too long. I went with 2 1/2" length.
I am struggling to get the hoses disconnected under the hood. I have the bitch clamps pulled down but the hose seems very secure to the pipe. I’m pulling relatively hard and it’s not coming apart. I’m I doing something wrong. Thank you.
@@bobbyward7929 Have you tried twisting them as your pulling to help break the seal? If that's not working get a flat head screw driver and pry them loose
I did the same thing once when having to replace a heater core hard line on a Chevy Corsica I once had. I started out replacing a water pump after the car broke down out on the road. So there I am in a parking lot removing the water pump and the water pump wouldn't quite come out. So I grabbed the hard line that was blocking it and gently pulled up on it....and it went "TINK"....and snapped right off. Well guess what?...that hard line is installed at the factory before they install the engine. The new line was L shaped and would NOT fit around the engine. So I did what this gentleman did here.....I simply cut the line in two at a convenient location and spliced it with flex hose. Worked like a charm.
Amazing video thank you very much I just tackled it this morning and if wasn’t for this video I was gonna end up removing everything but you saved me from all the hassle thanks again
THANK YOU for this short cut!... one question - have you ever seen overheating after doing this? After doing this fix the car goes hot then back to norm temp and heater heat comes and goes... ???
Nice presentation for sure. My question is, did warm air come out on the passenger side after you replaced the heater core? The one you pulled out didn't look too bad. Thanks!
Dont think a compression fitting would work as that fitting would have to be stationery vs the hose that can move and give for the pipes getting in place and for any erroneous cuts on the pipes
Noticed after cutting thw tubes they were even cuts..you had to bend one back to get core out.when putting new core in did u have to bend one tube to get it in then bend it back? Did it stay leak free?
Hey! I didn't actually bend the pipe, they can kind of swivel with the way they are crimped Into the core. I did cut the pipes on the new core about a half inch shorter to give wiggle room for the hoses and such. I re-tightened the clamps after a couple days, nope no leaks!
Didn't have any leaking issues. I'm sure you could flare it if you wanted, but the total gap the hose covers is only around 1/2 an inch. If you use the correct hose size it is a super tight fit.
I have a 2014 3.6 and the heat does work, however it only works on 76 and 79. Anything else blows out cool air. Do you think that would be the heater core?
@@drewforthefew935 Yes, the temp feels even on both sides and when it is on either 76 or 79 it blows out hot. 79 is way too hot and 76 is alright, but after about ten minutes it starts to get too warm and I either have to crack the window or shut off the fan completely until it gets cold enough again to need it, lol. It's more of a nuisance than anything.
You saved 800 to $1000. That particulat heater core is prone to clogging. I have the 3.6 six cyclinder. So disconnecting the heater core and flushing it by itself is a pain.
FYI. 5/8" heater hose is way too tight. The pipe measures 11/16" and you probably won't find heater hose that size. I used 3/4" hose and tightened the crap out of the clamps. No leaks. The Torx size is #20. You also need a 7mm nut driver to remove the one duct up under the dash. It doesn't "just pop off". Someone was probably in yours before and never put it back. Hope this helps others. Good hack though. Dealership wanted $1,600 to do my wifes car. Rock Auto had the factory core for about $150.
FYI, Ive done multiple and many people here have had great success with 5/8 . Its the tight fight that gives you assurance. 3/4 will give you leaks eventually. And yes they do just pop off in the ones i have done.
Nope i didnt use new pipe through the firewall. And yes, most part places carry the clamps, they will usually just let you borrow them if you dont want to buy them
I just finished mine, this video and comments were really helpful. I cut open old core, was 90% clocked up. I have couple pictures but I don't know how to upload them here.
It is not easy to get heater core out as it is in the video. I'm am struggling to get it out. Is the a screw holding the heater core in ? I am pulling on it .but it is not bulging
That's really strange. Most people have no issue with pulling it out. Unless somehow yours has actually broken apart somehow in the heat box, but you'd have coolant everywhere if that were the case
Finished my 2012 200 yesterday. Thanks for the helpful video! I'm guessing you edited out the cursing when trying to pull the radiator hose down onto the new heater core lol. Heads up for others, go slow pulling those plastic pieces out under the dash. I cracked one, but it still went back together fine.
I am struggling to get the hoses disconnected under the hood. I have the bitch clamps pulled down but the hose seems very secure to the pipe. I’m pulling relatively hard and it’s not coming apart. I’m I doing something wrong. Thank you.
It happens they get reallyyyyyy stuck sometimes. Take a pair of channel locks and put around the end where the clamp was. Don't squeeze hard, but apply enough pressure to grip the hose and rotate it back and forth. It will come loose.
@@drewforthefew935 I’ve talked and hyped myself up to doing this myself. My boyfriend won’t do shit and no one else for that matter. I’ve asked every mechanic I know and they’re charging $700-$1000. Thank you for the video. I will be following it step by step.
Yes it will, the only difference will be there is a lot less space to remove the hoses in the engine compartment. Little more patience required with the 3.6.
@@drewforthefew935 If you are not removing the metal hoses from the fire wall then why disconnect there. I have the 3.6 and flush it constantly because of the damn heat issue, follow the heater hoses up to the first point of disconnect under the air tube and disconnect there. Since the tubes aren't coming out of the firewall no need to unhook there. I love this short cut, I was under the dash last week and saw the heater core and thought about cutting but wasn't sure, now that I've seen this, I feel better about it. Oh, almost forgot, Fuck Chrysler.
@@trackudown1 good tip!! Since I was working on the 2.4 it was just super simple to disconnect at the firewall and easy to blow out the coolant. But yeah if there is a better spot on the 3.6 then cool!
@@drewforthefew935 You're good where you're at on the 4 cyl. I was just throwing that out there for the comment from the 3.6 guy. Just needs to remove the top of the air cleaner box and first main air plenum line. I will probably cut mine next week. I have a recirculating pump and ran it for 10 hours with purple power and then another 2 hours with lime away, got some heat back but not enough. Tired of flushing it every season. Hey, if anyone ever punches a Chrysler engineer in the face, let me know, I will buy you a beer.
![[TH] Esports World Cup : Knockout Stage Day 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ES-vr-FarFg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[UNCUT] ที่นี่ที่แรก ปู - หาญส์ พูดถึงมหากาพย์หนี้สิ้น I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 10 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KDNA9DZ0p4U/mqdefault.jpg)
You saved me big time, did this repair in under 2 hours and heat is back and working great on both sides od dash now. Kudos!
This is the greatest video I’ve found to do this job. Thank you so much for the advice. Will be tackling this job myself today
No problem! Hope it goes smooth. Re-tighten your hose clamps after a couple days as they will probably settle a bit into the new rubber.
Awesome hack!!!!!
I just had an estimate for a heater core replacement for my wife’s 2013 Chrysler 200 POS and they wanted $1200!!! I said hell to the no, to the no, no, no!!!
Freaking ridiculous because it’s a common problem with these cars because of sand left in the water jackets from casting. It should be a recall but of course it’s not.
Thumbs up for a great instructional video.
Yeah it gets salty in a hurry. And thank you!
Yea thankful wasn’t hard just hacked up my hands under that dash but saved 1200$ cost 75$ and got it done heats on and hot
Yup, yup....I had $1,000-$2,000 here in Ohio.
Awesome!! Thank you for taking the time to make/post this.
Thank you sir you have really save me Bunches of time I work in the shop this is the second 200 heater core that I have installed in the last month thank you again
Gonna be doing this today if i can collect my parts! Thanks for the advice and instructions! Cheers!
This video is amazing. I just wanted to say thank you for this. It saved me and many others so much. Sending good vibes your way my guy
Hey thank you, i appreciate the good vibes from everyone that this has helped!
I just did this on my 2012 200, and it worked like a charm! thanks for the video!
Note: My heating performance was poor, taking several minutes to get warm, and I could smell coolant through the vents (Suspected leak in core)
After doing this I found the old core did in fact have a leak, and I could feel heat within seconds of starting the engine. After warmed up, the heat was much hotter than before, clearly the old core was clogged.
Thank you. Now I have confidence to do it myself. Great detail video
Thanks so much! I'm hoping a core flush will fix my heater, at least for this coming winter, but now I see that it's actually possible for me to replace the whole heater core if I have to. It's a pity Chrysler made things so dang hard to get at, to repair/replace!
Well just did mine today took 3hrs BC so little room from my grinder and the hoses not wanting to go on but after all nice warm heat (v6 model) thank you
Yeah it's pretty tight fit, my grinder had a 4" wheel and fit decent in there. But hey, good work!!
Hey man just a tip for your video... I found it easier to put the hose pieces n clamps on the heater core before sliding it in... The less time doing things in that hole the better.... And the pipes coming from the engine compartment move forward and back a Lil giving u the play to get on them... Cut ur hose sections just a touch longer than u think... And lube up the ends of ur hose to help it slide on better... Also a small flat head will help when trying to get the hose over the cut pipes.... Thanks for ur help banged it out last night in about 2 hrs going slow n careful having never done one!
Hey Jacob! It was only about 20 degrees the day I did that, the hoses would only cooperate going the direction that I put them on first, because of how quickly they would become rigid. But yeah if you can spend less time under there, then by all means do what works best for you. Haha. Glad to hear you got it done, good work man!
One of the best videos on this! Glad you laid out the parts at 1:20 and told us the diameters. I have had quotes of 1-2K dollars for this job in Ohio.
Mark a heater inlet hose to the corresponding firewall inlet so you don't reverse them...just saying.
To make sure you don't cut what your not suppose to, place a piece of metal behind the tubes...just in case...and put a towel down on the floor for a few drips of coolant. Also, I'll be using an oscillator cutting tool .
Suggestion: You might want to just try blowing out the core first and use the CHRYSLER specific coolant, then do this.
BTW: I also just changed the thermostat as they are notorious evil in the 200....easy fix on a lift.
Really good video, it's a great time saver. thanks
Glad to help!
You sir are a genius.
This is freaking brilliant. Just brilliant
You sir are a true life saver thank you!
No problem!
You sir just got my subscription. An a million 👍
Just did this today thank you!!
You're welcome. Glad you found it useful!
Dishwashing soap helps heater hoses slip on. Just put a little on the heater core tubes.
Excellent tip rondell!
I had no heat at all. This worked great. Wasn't about to take the whole dash apart.
Awesome thx very helpful the wife is very happy.
Thank u saved me time and money
No problem!
Great info
Going to give this a shot in my wife’s 2012 Dodge Avenger 3.6. We live in AZ and have the same issue but it does the opposite when the AC is turned on (cold air out passenger vents, ambient air out driver’s side). Everything I have read online points to the heater core being the problem. Hoping this does the trick to save a grand or two.
What would your recommendation be to check next if this did not fix my issue? I already replaced the blend door actuator before trying this. Still having the same issue.
Awesome fix thanks
Very kool I did it very nice 😮
Awesome... I just did mine. Works great now. I used 2 clamps at each end, for a total of 8 clamps. Just to be double safe from leaks. :-). I found that using 3 1/2" hose like you stated was too long. I went with 2 1/2" length.
Hey nothing wrong with being extra safe. Haha. Good work!!
I am struggling to get the hoses disconnected under the hood. I have the bitch clamps pulled down but the hose seems very secure to the pipe. I’m pulling relatively hard and it’s not coming apart.
I’m I doing something wrong. Thank you.
@@bobbyward7929 Have you tried twisting them as your pulling to help break the seal? If that's not working get a flat head screw driver and pry them loose
@@IdahoClay I was able to get them once I realized I wasn’t going to break them by pulling that hard.
I did the same thing once when having to replace a heater core hard line on a Chevy Corsica I once had. I started out replacing a water pump after the car broke down out on the road. So there I am in a parking lot removing the water pump and the water pump wouldn't quite come out. So I grabbed the hard line that was blocking it and gently pulled up on it....and it went "TINK"....and snapped right off. Well guess what?...that hard line is installed at the factory before they install the engine. The new line was L shaped and would NOT fit around the engine. So I did what this gentleman did here.....I simply cut the line in two at a convenient location and spliced it with flex hose. Worked like a charm.
Wow finally a short cut thank you so much
Happy to help!
I used shark bite fitting works great better then the hose just push on
What size/type of sharkbite did you use? I tried the flush a couple weeks ago but now its gone cold again and i'm not pull this damn dash again.
I cut the pipes shorter and used longer hose easier to connect
1 inch
Amazing video thank you very much I just tackled it this morning and if wasn’t for this video I was gonna end up removing everything but you saved me from all the hassle thanks again
Good work and thank you!
Thanks for the cheat trick.
Forgot to mention the small screw at the bottom of the piece that just pops right off but so far so good👍
Brilliant!!!
Thank you!
This is the greatest damn video ever just save me $1,500
Right on, glad it worked out!
BRRRRRilliant!
Those 2 metal hoses on the new one are farther apart than the one you pulled out.how do you adjust them?
You 'da man!
When you cut the lines underneath how do you know which one is top and bottom?
NICE
Thank you for this video dog five star ⭐️ rate dog it bet Take all the dash out I will be at the part store for the parts for the job👍🏼👌🏽🙏🏼💪🏼☝🏼
Do this work for the 2012 300s as well ????
If the hose breaks or lets go, someone is getting serious burn and could cause an accident! Yes, this is a quick fix, but is it worth it?
Is their a short cut on an 09 Ram 1500 .?
This is a great video. Would this work for a 2008 Sebring. Don't really want to pull the dash. Looks like they take the same core.
I just did this on a 10 sebring and the 08 is the same thing, so yes, it'll work just fine
What year Chrysler does this work for?
someone needs to make a core that the lines can be unplugged and plugged back together at the core where the crimp is
After doing 9 billion heater cores, I have to say.. I agree with you completely. Haha
Toyota carry is like that
THANK YOU for this short cut!... one question - have you ever seen overheating after doing this? After doing this fix the car goes hot then back to norm temp and heater heat comes and goes... ???
Sounds like you just need to make sure the coolant is full!
WoW!!!!! Thanks….
Nice presentation for sure. My question is, did warm air come out on the passenger side after you replaced the heater core? The one you pulled out didn't look too bad. Thanks!
Sorry, I saw below the question had already been asked.
@@chevybrat no problem, yes this is definitely the fix!
In place of the 5/8 in hose you used to splice/join the tubes, have you thought about a compression fitting?
Dont think a compression fitting would work as that fitting would have to be stationery vs the hose that can move and give for the pipes getting in place and for any erroneous cuts on the pipes
Noticed after cutting thw tubes they were even cuts..you had to bend one back to get core out.when putting new core in did u have to bend one tube to get it in then bend it back? Did it stay leak free?
Hey! I didn't actually bend the pipe, they can kind of swivel with the way they are crimped Into the core. I did cut the pipes on the new core about a half inch shorter to give wiggle room for the hoses and such. I re-tightened the clamps after a couple days, nope no leaks!
My concern would be that the cut ends arent flared, and a potential for a leak? Is it possible to flare the cut ends?
Didn't have any leaking issues. I'm sure you could flare it if you wanted, but the total gap the hose covers is only around 1/2 an inch. If you use the correct hose size it is a super tight fit.
I have a 2014 3.6 and the heat does work, however it only works on 76 and 79. Anything else blows out cool air. Do you think that would be the heater core?
Interesting, that sounds like more of a blend door actuator problem. Is the heat nice and hot, feel the same temp on both sides of the car?
@@drewforthefew935 Yes, the temp feels even on both sides and when it is on either 76 or 79 it blows out hot. 79 is way too hot and 76 is alright, but after about ten minutes it starts to get too warm and I either have to crack the window or shut off the fan completely until it gets cold enough again to need it, lol. It's more of a nuisance than anything.
Sounds more like a blend door problem. These have up to 4 blend doors and they are known for problems as well.
You saved 800 to $1000. That particulat heater core is prone to clogging. I have the 3.6 six cyclinder. So disconnecting the heater core and flushing it by itself is a pain.
FYI. 5/8" heater hose is way too tight. The pipe measures 11/16" and you probably won't find heater hose that size. I used 3/4" hose and tightened the crap out of the clamps. No leaks. The Torx size is #20. You also need a 7mm nut driver to remove the one duct up under the dash. It doesn't "just pop off". Someone was probably in yours before and never put it back. Hope this helps others. Good hack though. Dealership wanted $1,600 to do my wifes car. Rock Auto had the factory core for about $150.
FYI, Ive done multiple and many people here have had great success with 5/8 . Its the tight fight that gives you assurance. 3/4 will give you leaks eventually. And yes they do just pop off in the ones i have done.
@@drewforthefew935 Fair enough.
did you use the new pipe sections through the firewall?
Nope i didnt use new pipe through the firewall. And yes, most part places carry the clamps, they will usually just let you borrow them if you dont want to buy them
So my 2 vents on drivers side blow warm air and the passenger blows cold could that be the heater core
Correct
Were you able to put the vent hard cover back on? I mean with all these clamps in the way
I just finished mine, this video and comments were really helpful.
I cut open old core, was 90% clocked up. I have couple pictures but I don't know how to upload them here.
Yes its scar how blocked they get kn these cars. Hey good work! Glad it helped
It is not easy to get heater core out as it is in the video. I'm am struggling to get it out. Is the a screw holding the heater core in ? I am pulling on it .but it is not bulging
That's really strange. Most people have no issue with pulling it out. Unless somehow yours has actually broken apart somehow in the heat box, but you'd have coolant everywhere if that were the case
@@drewforthefew935 no coolent any where
Still no leaks till this day? Just wondering cause I just did this to my girlfriends car and worried about the hoses to boost on her
Never had any issues with it!
Finished my 2012 200 yesterday. Thanks for the helpful video! I'm guessing you edited out the cursing when trying to pull the radiator hose down onto the new heater core lol. Heads up for others, go slow pulling those plastic pieces out under the dash. I cracked one, but it still went back together fine.
So you drained none of the coolant just blocked the lines right?
Correct!
do the parts stores carry those red clamps?
I got a set of three different sizes at walmart for $20
Since a 2010 Sebring is basically a 200. Will it work on the 3.5?
Not positive, pull the plastic panel under the steering wheel and you should be able to tell pretty quickly if it's the same.
@@drewforthefew935 so far there was just one plastic panel to get to it. Then the cable. Going to try and cut it.
Does the coolant need to be drained first?
Does not have to be drained.
What size clamps did u use?
I don't recall. They were just a little bigger around than the hose
Did this fix the no heat on the passenger side thats what mine is doing blows warm on drivers side cold on passenger side 😀
Yes, this is 100% the fix for that problem.
@@drewforthefew935 thank you sir i will change it out today
Fixed it great heat on both sides thanks
I am struggling to get the hoses disconnected under the hood. I have the bitch clamps pulled down but the hose seems very secure to the pipe. I’m pulling relatively hard and it’s not coming apart.
I’m I doing something wrong. Thank you.
It happens they get reallyyyyyy stuck sometimes. Take a pair of channel locks and put around the end where the clamp was. Don't squeeze hard, but apply enough pressure to grip the hose and rotate it back and forth. It will come loose.
How much do you normally charge for that repair ?
I usually charge a case of mountain dew and some beef jerky. Lol
@@drewforthefew935 lol that’s a good price i can buy you two cases and a big thing a of jerky lol 😂
@@jber9569 i finally got it fixed and they went with this method thanks ❤️
@@GiJenaTv how much did they charge you?
@@jaimegonzalez7770 i think around $1000+
Wow!! Can you change my heater core ?
Here I'll try to use the force -concentrates mind power-
@@drewforthefew935 I’ve talked and hyped myself up to doing this myself. My boyfriend won’t do shit and no one else for that matter. I’ve asked every mechanic I know and they’re charging $700-$1000. Thank you for the video. I will be following it step by step.
You got this! Doing it yourself always has gets you more awesome points anyway. Feel free to ask questions if you have issues
Will this work on a chrysler 200 3.6
Yes it will, the only difference will be there is a lot less space to remove the hoses in the engine compartment. Little more patience required with the 3.6.
@@drewforthefew935 If you are not removing the metal hoses from the fire wall then why disconnect there. I have the 3.6 and flush it constantly because of the damn heat issue, follow the heater hoses up to the first point of disconnect under the air tube and disconnect there. Since the tubes aren't coming out of the firewall no need to unhook there. I love this short cut, I was under the dash last week and saw the heater core and thought about cutting but wasn't sure, now that I've seen this, I feel better about it. Oh, almost forgot, Fuck Chrysler.
@@trackudown1 good tip!! Since I was working on the 2.4 it was just super simple to disconnect at the firewall and easy to blow out the coolant. But yeah if there is a better spot on the 3.6 then cool!
@@drewforthefew935 You're good where you're at on the 4 cyl. I was just throwing that out there for the comment from the 3.6 guy. Just needs to remove the top of the air cleaner box and first main air plenum line. I will probably cut mine next week. I have a recirculating pump and ran it for 10 hours with purple power and then another 2 hours with lime away, got some heat back but not enough. Tired of flushing it every season. Hey, if anyone ever punches a Chrysler engineer in the face, let me know, I will buy you a beer.
Be careful doing it this the the tube came out of the core on mine and was a pain to get back pressed back in
On another note Chrysler is a trash ass car