Ninja 1000 / Z1000 Fork Oil Change

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ธ.ค. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 31

  • @lancelacerte4970
    @lancelacerte4970 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    As moto-moto uk noted, undo the cap while in the fork. A 24mm socket fits perfectly over the nut, even with the handlebars in place. The reverse is also true; you can reinstall the forks with caps tightened by hand, then once back in the tightened triple tree you can torque them to specification. The most obvious advantage to all of this is you can avoid having to clamp those moderately fragile fork tubes in a vise.

  • @moto-moto
    @moto-moto 5 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    instead of putting the fork in the vise would it not be easier to undo the bolt while the fork are on the bike

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes! For breaking loose the top cap, do it on the bike. Still need to support the fork while working on it so a vice is still needed

  • @tombailey6342
    @tombailey6342 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks Wrenchie, having a go at a quick oil dump soon. Although 6 years old my bike has never had leaks and is VERY low milage. So this is the method i will choose to use, thanks again bud.

  • @pierronstephane2
    @pierronstephane2 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    great tutorials , those will help me servicing my SX with 12000 km in the winter season : fork oil + spark plugs + air filter

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good luck!

  • @HeretiCflow
    @HeretiCflow 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    But how do you make sure the forks are aligned perfectly and symmetrical when putting them back in?

  • @GVMotoring
    @GVMotoring 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    love this video ! im going to tackle this project in a few weeks.

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      You can do it! Good luck!

  • @RC7MASTER
    @RC7MASTER ปีที่แล้ว

    Good day bro what size of socket you use top shock cover cap

  • @NabilKarsheh
    @NabilKarsheh ปีที่แล้ว

    Why didn’t you change the springs to progressive ones to improve the suspension?

  • @keithmartland6463
    @keithmartland6463 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Strange how the manual doesn't tell you about changing the oil, most bikes its normally two years

  • @wirenut3020
    @wirenut3020 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    How did that work out for you? It seems you’ve actually gone to a lighter weight oil instead of heavier. Is the stock fork oil Showa ss-47?

  • @Dwalker2305
    @Dwalker2305 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Might want to add you should slacken the top nut and tighten while it’s in the triple trees rather than a vice

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yeah. That was a learning moment for me. You are correct, sir.

  • @sherifaltawil2358
    @sherifaltawil2358 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    great video sir, mine is z1000 2016, i have a question found some oil on the end of fork and callipar seems that its suspension oil any idea what caused that leakage?

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Sounds like a leaking fork seal. Wheelies tend to blow fork seals :)

  • @robertsilvarprmotoracing9083
    @robertsilvarprmotoracing9083 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    How much oil in that suspension??

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      The factor specs are based on an air gap at the top of the cylinder. The amount of oil used is equal to the amount of oil removed so to keep the air gap. This is an acceptable approach for a quick fork oil change, in my opinion and what I see most shops do. A full fork service would include disassembly of the forks (removing the cartridge) replacing seals, clearing everything completely, and then refilling with oil to achieve the proper air gap. Check the shop manual for the air gap spec.

  • @pinnaclepropertyservicehom1739
    @pinnaclepropertyservicehom1739 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You probably already know this, but you cannot get the level correct using the method you show here. You must measure the air gap to be accurate.

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes, you are correct. This is a quick "dump and go" oil change. To your point, a full fork service would require tearing down the forks, replacing seals and refilling with oil. To this point, using the factor spec level (air gap) is really important. My method would not be recommended if, for example, you have a small fork seal leak as the amount of oil removed is already below spec.

  • @SuperTadziktv
    @SuperTadziktv 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Ile wlales oleju

  • @yuazlr
    @yuazlr 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Oh man, where to start! Let's try this way. I like your videos somehow, even you doing many things wrong. I mean it is your bike, but if it is some kind of tutorial then, you know ... :) First of all, you ruined your anodised cap. further more, you suppose to remove dust cap with plastic tool...not 5w or 7w it is Showa SS-47 which is 10W. Then pumping action do not call for screwing back the cap. If you refering to Dave Moss lubricating the seal with tiny bit of grease, you suppose to do without dust seal. Your method is just lubricates dust seal, not actual oil seal (look DMT video again :) Anyway, you have stoped to do videos, so this is my way to get you going :) we all learning to become better!

  • @Steve--RR666
    @Steve--RR666 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    great video cheers

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks 👍

  • @trebor4460
    @trebor4460 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    thanks for the vid, very informative.

    • @Wrenchie
      @Wrenchie  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thank you for watching and commenting!