As a mechanic, I can say that durability and run time is far more important that brightness. IMO the cyclops is a home run, on low mode it will last over 8 hours, I turn it on at the beginning of the day and don’t turn it off until I leave. I have broken one but they hold up pretty decent to drops. The plastic snap on is bright but run time is horrible, however I found it to be pretty durable. And I will say that Milwaukee light is hot garbage, run time not great but the magnet is horrible and I shattered to pieces in a couple of months. Good video as always, keep up the good work
I have Olight S2 which is the smallest light with 18650 battery. At low mode it gets 144 hours and at medium, about 24 hours. Fits inside pocket easily. Has strong magnet. Light produced is round and homogenous so good for repairing stuff.
A test of 365nm UV lights for leak detection would be useful. We use black lights for testing welds on tanks, and I understand mechanics also use them for detecting leaks on engines and A/C systems.
I've been using the uvbeast v3 385-395nm primarily for automotive AC since I did some research and ultimately found a video of the v1 being used against some ~800 dollar lights. Didn't look like a ton of difference between them. It absolutely makes the lights sold by automotive tool companies look incredibly puny and weak. It was only around 60 dollars. All of the expensive brands want you to buy only their dye along with their lights as well. Lots of claims that there's no compatibility between different brands of dye/lights. I've found the uvbeast to work very well with a few different brands of automotive AC dye as well as our engine oil dye. Can't say how the 365nm would compare though. Would be very cool to see more comprehensive and scientific comparisons. This was a topic that I found very little information on. At least regarding automotive applications. Lots of marketing for little pen lights and such toward mechanics. There's no comparison to 20 dollar UV lights.
*Update 5/10:* Okay, so purchased another Olight, this one reached 296lm i.imgur.com/Y9bCH1z.jpg. 26% off, still the most off from the bunch and what a weird light for this to be going on. This is the 1st time we don't have the next batch of lights lined up, so suggest what category of lights you want to see next! See our winner Amazon page here: www.amazon.com/shop/torquetestchannel Torque, who started TTC, is working in product development for Astro Tools who also makes the 100SL included in this test. If excluding those results makes the most sense for you, feel free. We encourage skepticism across all reviews. Always consider multiple sources when looking at a product!
I believe you got a lemon, I did some testing with my Olight swivel and the high mode is 2.3x of the medium, and when being run in high mode the output steadily decreases from 100% to 67% in exactly 10 minutes then it stays there for the remaining duration of the charge. Medium mode mantains a flat output from start to finish which is what you observed in the runtime test.
I was also going to say the Olight should have three settings on flood mode. I would reach out to them potentially seems like you may have gotten one that was messed up. My swivel is much brighter on high than the one you tested here.
Just to chime in, I have an Olight Swivel and it doesn't last anywhere near 8 hours in High - it's more like 4.5 hours. Pity you seemed to get a dud, but not really worth revisiting. Being stuck in Medium would also explain why the lumen reading flickered so much (what with the LED duty cycle).
Light manufacturers: Make more lights with REMOVABLE 18650 or other similar Lithium batteries. I absolutely love the $20 harbor freight light and my old vape battery charger has been repurposed. Have two lights, change out the batteries when one dies, shuffle shuffle, keep you going all night on a project. The only downside is that it's a Harbor freight light, and very blue.
after having brake fluid on my maxxeon cyclops for all of 30 minutes (wasn’t much fluid), then cleaned off and left overnight, it started cracking and falling apart but still works, though i don’t use it because every adjustment just brings more cracks
I've had a couple of the Astro 700 lumen lights and I love them! I mainly use them to do suspension work and its perfect. I don't even use the high setting as its very bright. I bet that Astro 1000 lumen light is a beast! Nice reviews! Thanks!
What an amazing test guys thank you. I'm sold on that Astro. They continue to make very impressive tools and I'd be happy to spend my money with them. Keep Crushing the content gentleman!
Having a high CRI light is nice. The super cheap very blue lights with low CRI make it difficult to tell wires apart... Is that wire light blue? Grey? Purple?
I can't thank you guys enough for doing these tests. Getting gear and tools has been a crap shoot full of disappointment for a long time. Now we can at least spend our money wisely with these tests in mind.
Hello Kyle Q Thank you for commenting, I want to ask you about Astro charge pad. Does it really work or does it take longer to charge. Is worth buying. Again thank you
@@georgeferlazzo7936 Wireless will always take longer to charge, it's a limitation of the physics involved. But, it's nice being able to just drop your gear on the pad at the end of the day, and grab it straight off at the beginning of the next, without having to fiddle with cables. As long as you have downtime to let it wirelessly trickle charge (just like your phone or smart watch), then it's great.
@@PongoXBongo Hello PongoXBongo Thank you for your response. I don't own a wireless charger yet and I am researching for my next purchase. Again thank you
@@georgeferlazzo7936 You're most welcome. Another alternative to wireless charging is mag-safe style cables for USB charged tools. Same tool, same plugin adapter, just a 3rd party cable with little magnetic cable ends. Grab'n'go without the weireless time penalty.
I have a Olight swivel and it’s kind of tricky for me to switch through the modes. That being said I believe the swivel was left on medium mode during your tests. Medium mode on the swivel is 160 lumens for 9hrs which is close what you got. And 400 for 5hrs. But if you made sure it was on high I’ll take your word for it! Love your videos man! Really enjoying the flashlight testing!
It was on the 2nd click, multiple times during the light duration testing we clicked through all its modes to make sure there wasnt some hidden 400 lumen one. Maybe ours was stuck on medium?
I love my cyclops lights…I did a clutch and rear main on my truck, but didn’t clean up the sealing surface between the rear main housing and the block very well so it pissed oil…put it back on the lift the next weekend to tear it apart again (you can imagine how pleased I was) and found a cyclops light that I had left under there the previous weekend. Under there for a week, having hot oil pissed on it, probably drove 150 miles that week, plugged it in, fired right back up.
it's the quality of the brightness that matters for me . i have led shop work lights that are super bright but they are glaring and reflect off of surfaces so much that it becomes difficult to focus on one specific area . the best works light i have ever used were the halogen lights . super expensive to run and dangerously hot but the light from these bulbs created an even brightness throughout the room making it easy to focus on any object in any position .
I know you’ve tested headlamps before, but I would like to see another round of testing using only hard hat mountable options. Klein tools, ergodyne, Milwaukee, nightstick, etc
I have the 700lumen snap on light and it’s awesome. I brought it to work and stuck it to the ROPS of a mower (cause it didn’t have headlights!) and I could see EVERYTHING. I could see every stick, every golf ball, every pile of goose shit, everything. It made me able to start working before I normally would, which was great for days when we were prepping for a big event. The magnet kicks ass on it as well. I had no issues with it falling off no matter how fast I was hitting bumps.
Excellent comparison! While normally I don't like the SnapOn electronics and power tools, I gotta say the aluminum pod light has some benefits that aren't advertised. The Streamlights are always a great value with life time warranty of course. The SnapOn aluminum pod light is very user serviceable IF you know the trick to reset the battery management circuit. The SnapOn warranty for power tools is only one year. And you can't just give it to the truck. They need to send it back which as of 2022 has been taking average of about 2 months. So you only have the light for about 10 months in warranty considering the batteries fail about yearly. However they are built well and can handle being taken apart and serviced a few times easily. You can get a good quality 18650 cell to replace the stock medium quality one. I recommend the Sony Murata VTC6. Once you solder in the new cell with the old BMS circuit transferred to the new cell, the light won't work or charge. It has gone into under-volt protection from being disconnected, or as I call it "Planned obsolesce" mode. To reset it you need to jump the positive input to the positive output. I have also come across one earlier model that instead needed the negatives jumped together. You can do both as jumping the one that's common just won't do anything. Once this is done it should work normally until low voltage mode is triggered again.
Nice review. My only recommendation is to give some weight to CRI on your chart. There's a lot of misconception currently with the LED market, where people believe that brighter is always better. In the automotive accessory world, it's a huge problem. A high power 6K LED light bar with a low CRI becomes very tiring to the eyes. Not only that, but it's harder to recognize objects and takes longer to process what you're seeing. On the other hand, a high CRI light doesn't usually need to be as powerful which means you're blinding yourself and others less. It also ideally should be a lower kelvin rating as well. I'm sure we've all heard why blue light is bad. For some reason, it's incredibly difficult to find a 4300k-5000k LED with high CRI.
Currently having this discussion in regards to heavy plant that was fitted with high temp, low CRI LED that also emit ungodly amounts if RFI. Operated at night moving a compost like product and it's just shades of blue under that light, it's very hard to make out the shade of brown that is the floor, and the brown that it's a pile of compost. Been telling them they need to drop to 3200-3500K, preferably running conventionals (100% CRI) or some high end LED with at least 95%+
5K is still far too high for driving lights. 3200-3600K is the sweet spot, high performance tungsten runs closer to 3600K and is hard to beat both for driving and on stage/film
@@casemodder89 you can get 95+ in LED, we use or for film/stage. But it's incredibly expensive to do so compared to tungsten For example, these days I could buy cans for $1-2( each new or $400 used and run tungsten at $50 lamp. Or, to do the same job, with less output and slightly lower CRI in LED it's $13,000 fixture and high end HMI is even more expensive. Easier solution is just to throw more power at it, so rather than 2kW tungsten get the 5,16,25KW lamps out and you've scaled light output and kept your high CRI
Love the cyclops lights. I've crushed one it still worked stuck that same one on the oder side of a car. Hit a bump at 40mph and it scraped the road came off and bounced for a while. And it still works great
I love Olight’s products, EXCEPT for this one single model which is a huge disappointment in every way I can think of. I literally never use it while the 10 or so other models I have never cease to amaze both me and others.
This model actually has 3 different power settings. Single click is mid, high is 2nd click and low is 3rd. Not sure that it was on highest setting don't believe that was stated in review? I just test levels myself now.
Bless your heart for doing a comparison on worklights. Your channel continues to be the go-to for REAL product evaluations in a very confusing market. For about 8 years I have been using as my primary worklight a Streamlight Knucklehead. My inspection light is a Streamlight Strion, my every day carry. I also own that terrible Snap On light you reviewed. Check out a Knucklehead. They are physically durable enough to work in a production environment and they are Very good at being a worklight. I use one daily when I do alignments because it clamps to the rack so securely and throws a ton of light. BTW I sent you my CP717 have you broke it yet?
I have both of the Snap On lights. The aluminum one is far brighter (or at least lights up the area better making it seem brighter), but mine flickers badly when fully charged (my dealer is getting it replaced for me though). The magnet is the same on both and the added weight of the al makes it much easier to knock off (even easier once you get some gunk built up on it). Then there's the Snap On premium that you get the pleasure of paying for.
I have the 700 lumen Snap-on metal light and it’s superb. If the pivot isn’t where I want it I just rotate the light to stick on the underside of the hood. The metal housing is a huge bonus (along with the USB-C charge port).
Rather unflattering result for the Olight, particularly the chemical resistance - will have to remember to be cautious about that. I have two of them, I don't do mechanic work by trade though I must say that stamina - chef's kiss. I don't need a lot of light when grovelling under and in my car at night, it just has to be consistent and there and having torches that will run from sundown to midnight is a bonus. Medium setting, two of them works great as is the option to point it in beam.
Can’t speak for Streamlight’s other lights but I love my Macrostream. It lives in my pocket everyday at work for the past year or so and it’s held up to the abuse. Plus if I ever need a replace the rechargeable battery they’re only like $10.
Best light testing I've seen! Well done. But I think most people incorrectly get hung up on lumens. With a portable work light, how much light do you really need when working at arms length? For that type of work, durability and runtime are much more important. I've never had a light that put the light where I wanted it and thought, "I wish it was brighter." Will crazy bright get the job done any better? In some cases that extra brightness is a negative. It can hinder your vision, especially in flood mode when you are trying to see in a dark pocket and get an insane amount of reflected light from closer objects. My opinion, take it with a grain of salt.
Great testing as always! If you are looking for lights to test; a range of "tactical" lights would be great. I work in law enforcement, so it would be good to know if we are getting what we paid for. Are the Surefire lights really worth that much vs the more reasonably priced models from Fenix or Streamlight like the ProTac HL-X.
I've been using a Nextorch E55 at work. It's brighter than I've ever needed but it uses a standard 18650 battery with USB C charging and it lasts over a week.
For the money you spend on any of the brands you named, I guarantee you aren't getting what you paid for. Look at convoy flashlights. They're just as much performance(if not more) they're repairable and they're 1/3 to 1/4 the price of any big name brands.
Hello again Torque Test Channel Thank you for another Great Video. With all the testing you have performed. What light has been the overall success? I need one to work with me and not take a lot of charge time. I am just getting into the rechargeable lights. I have triple AAA batteries types. Which I want to move from. Safety is a Major Issue, I maybe in or near a aircraft fuel tank. Aircraft fuel is very volatile. No sparks allowed. As a Aircraft Mechanic, I maybe on a twelve hour shift. So at some point the light will need to charge. But I need to keep working. Again thank you
The light...The light, thanks I couldn't see with out the light... Creative testing and taught me about chemical resistance as I had not thought about that. I'll stick with the Milwaukee lights as I have that batttery platform already, Unless TTC finds a "must own" light. Then we will think about switching brands.. Thanks for the "Enlighten" on Lamination!!
Great video, I would love to have seen the Braun 750 lumen from Harbor Freight included in your testing, I have several of them and they appear to out perform the snap-on lights at a much lower price point.
Love my OLight products the durability is far better than most other brands my little batton is three years old used daily in steel plant heavy equipment repair and is holding up great
Olight…yeah, I bought a few of their cycle rear lights..pah! Brightness was great…not an issue, but they switch off if not detecting movement. Riding gently for a while I would come to a stop only then to find the rear light was off! Waiting to emerge at a junction for any time would also put the lights into sleep mode…making you vulnerable to any car coming up behind. At night you might realise the red glow behind has gone…but used as a daylight safety running light with no visible glow reflection, it was terrible. Plus the units are small…meaning small batteries, which are dead in under two hours. For nearly fifty bucks I expected better.
I feel like if you're a mechanic just wear a hat and put a rechargable headlamp on. Stops from losing them and dropping them. Also you always have light where you are looking.
Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnosics wears a head mounted light all the time on his channel. I don't know what kind but he probably has figured out what works best for him.
@@morscovium8881 then you ignore a grown ass man thinking a headlamp makes you look like a dork cause at the end of the day he's just some judgmental fuckin loser.
When I was at a dealership the cornwell guy gave me 2 cyclops for $28 a piece. Might not be the brightest light ever but with 2 put in different angles, I can see just about anything I need to. The magnets are super strong and they’re bright and durable for the price
On the Nebo, having to cycle through the bright lights to get to the red light seems like a poor design. The point of the red light is to not mess so much with vision sensitized to low light. Turning on bright lights to get to the red light is counter productive.
I've got a Nebo. It's bright but it doesn't last long at all, even on their highest setting. Was disappointed with that. I got one of those flexible led strip headlamps which does decent, and in my car I have a streamlight strion led and charger wired in, which are both my go to lights. Flashlights and knives. Gotta love em I'm actually surprised on how robust that Nebo was for you. I dropped mine from about 4 feet at work and it started being unreliable
And here I am still using Grandpa's old 60-watt incandescent plug-in shop light. Filament bulbs don't like drops, but eh, it's been working fine for 70 years now and I'm just a shadetree so it's not like I'm having to rely on it for my paycheck. Also fits in nicely when I'm working on a 70 year old car.
Okay, but Harbor Freight has those great little lights for a dollar or two and they work well. Not rechargeable, but you can change batteries or just buy them by the case. I have my old Mag-Lite lights I still use, but I do use the HF puck lights...
A wurrkos dive light might surprise you. 6061 aluminum housing, waterproof to more than 100 ft and very bright for less than or around $100 depending on the model genwiss also makes some good lights
Fun fact, (or assumption) the olight seems to be a rebranded no name chineese light, that can be had on eBay with a mircousb charging slot instead of USB c, but also for about $11
thanks for this! disappointed in the olight lying about lumens but never seen a light last that long at 200 lumens. you might see that on a medium or low setting of 100 or less lumens im a budget guy but also love my lumens. astro won easy as its really the only one that even performed well in the runtime imo. the cyclops is a good budget option
Great content as always. I have a Nebo pen style light with many settings on it as well as the laser built in and love it, very robust and many great uses. Interested in how the new ICON light and some of the GearWrench lights stack up.
My shop uses 2 different Snap-On lights, one like the 400 lumen ABS that's been in use since 2021, and one that looks just like the Cyclops, but with the charge indicator in the lamp bezel. Our Cyclops Snap-On only has 2 modes, and might be a 400 lumen model. The Cyclops clones take many hours to charge, but use the microUSB chargers, while the ABS ones charge quickly and use Type C chargers. Also, our Cyclops clones have a vertical row of LEDs in the bezel, but the housings look exactly like the real Cyclops, even down to the charge port cover flap. EDIT: The drop and dunk test results make sense. Our shop saw one of the ABS Snap-Ons die, but the 3 Cyclops clones we have are still trucking, even though the charge port flaps have fallen apart. For context, my shop provides all tools, and we aren't allowed to use our own tools.
Manufacturers take note, there is NO excuse for making anything but junk-tier lights which do not laugh off sprayed solvents and liquid immersion. That's a deal breaker for mechanics and TTC doing the solvent test is very, very cool! Nebo ordered (which I'll back up with my Anker power brick so it can charge while in use).
Klein makes a work light very similar to the olight. After seeing that performance I’m glad I never got the orange one I’ve been waiting on. Astro also has a comparable light to the cyclops and snap on in 700ish lumen I think.
Wife got me a NEBO light 3 years ago, still works great even agter dropping it hundreds of times, the clip will break off of it in the first ten minutes of owning it..it will break itself off no need to touch it , but the magnet works great bright light, thank you wifey.
I have the aluminium snap on and can confirm that the fact that it doesn’t rotate all the way is very annoying. I prefer the older ecfhky which I’ve had for years. It’s better in every way
I went on a course of lighting tech, and I believe there is an error at 1:20 there abouts. To my knowledge the CRI is compared agains black body radiator (read: incandecent lightbulb) which would always have a CRI of 100. Not sunlight. Thus CRI can be thought of "how closely the light matches a traditional lightbulb in color rendering." The reason this bugs me is that I've sold LED-lights for 5 years, and clients usually want the highest CRI source just because number is bigger. Flat-ish spectrum lamps would be desirable, but CRI would be low because the number is comparing them to crappy light source: the incandecent bulb which has a triangle shaped spectrum. This is why I have usually adviced my clients to get CRI-80-90 LEDs. Those are more efficient and better light thatn CRI95 for example. But forget CRI70 stuff if you need to do work :D Please correct me if I am wrong, I don't want to keep faulty information in my head! Nice work with the testing setup!
I use the abs snap on light often and work and it’s been soaked in chemicals and dropped and still works like a champ! Feels like it takes days to charge tho lmao better off owning 2 to prevent downtime
I work slow so I like the olight but I'm not surprised at the bogus lumen rating, they're a cheap, decent light that lasts a long time, something has to give and in this case it's light output. That Rover does look good though, I may have to check one of those out next time I'm at the store.
instead of "out of 10" for the more subjective categories, i would have it be a percentage on a curve. the highest would be 100% (or just 1) and the rest would be a percentage of that. that way, everything is scored relative to the "best" performer in that category. minor change, but it removes the implication that one is the best possible of all lights, even those not tested
I have a snap on I think 400ish lumen probably the same one in the video. It’s close in lumen rating to the fast charge version which cost a lot more but the performance of the two are totally different. The fast charge version is much brighter.
Very interesting! My Klein 56403 worklight has been a brave soldier but I'm looking to add another, maybe higher powered, light so this is good knowledge!
Working for Astro doesn't make a difference to me, if anyone says you aren't fair in testing your products, then they're blind (you beat the snot out of the 100sl). Even if you didn't, it wouldn't stop me from buying Astro products.
You might consider doing this with hard hat mounted work lights. Milwaukee, Klein, + others. There’s many to pick from and obviously a big market for them.
my aluminium snap ons stay on for about 15-20 minutes. they get really hot too. I used them for 2 years every day. The charging port broke on one and the other one is missing all the rubber around the light, the switch and the charging cover. Not really happy for the price and no warrenty.
id like to see figures for light cone size at 1, 3 and 6ft wich are fairly typical application distances shud be pretty easy to measure using some graph paper or a tape measure that you shine the light at
i accidently left my walmart/harbor freight light up next to a differential over the weekend one time and came back to it still being on.Very much dimmed, but still on
The harbor freight Braun/ snap on knock off would be nice to see tested I use them at work 1 on charge one in use they do the job but I feel like they’re not the 750 advertised lumens but for 30 bucks it’s hard to beat
Did you guys test the stream light syclone Jr from the matco truck? I have one and really like it. Battery life is good on low, high isn't all that great. And it's pretty durable. From my testing.
I love the Nebo lights. I hate the one with the red light. I usesd it for tech work for many years! before I started to do You Tube, I now use it to spot light stuff on shots I could not get light on as it is small. You should test the cheap set lights they sell on amazon. like the newwer lights!
Another great video. Do you have a Dropbox or Google drive where you share that spreadsheet? Also I would love to see you add a column with your score so i can keep better track while watching (my memory is not what is used to be...). These are odd lights because they are not flashlights but they are also not plug in area lights - but i would use a light like the for quick unexpected projects like work in a garage, under a car, in a crawlspace, etc... and camping is always asking for long lasting, durable lights, that Oilight looks awesome for this, that runtime is a weeks worth of nighttime area lighting after hours... Cheers!
Can you test magnet strength? My biggest issue with these types of lights is accidentally bumping it and having it fall into a bilge. Whatever I stick it to usually has thick layers of paint as well, so that doesn't help. Another good test would be to shoot sparks at it with a grinder. Some lights I've had I've even been able to shower with big gobs of weld spatter, others not so much.
Need to do some bargain-bin camping and/or worklight comparisons. The hardware stores, big box stores, and Walmart always seem to have something in this regard. Some of the COB strip lamps are good enough for less than $20, and probably make for a rather good deal when nearing the $5 point. Can't say much about most qualities, but they tend to be ok in terms of run-time and brightness. In terms of features, magnets and some kind of clip seem to be common. Might even be fun to see if any of those venture into the territory of the lights on this video's test run.
I have had a 12v dewalt light for years! Probably since it was first introduced to the market, it has a belt clip, magnet and swivel head. When it’s time to search for the dog at night it is like a search light beam, and when I’m working in a craw space it lights the whole area up. It is awesome, 12v lithium charges super fast and it came in a kit with a drill and impact driver for $199. Maybe you could do a video on “rechargeable battery” tool style lights? Thanks great vid.
I'd like to see similar test of the stick lights. Like matco MWL900, MHHFL600, streamlight switchblade, etc. The long adjustable stick lights are essential under the hood.
Hey TTC enjoyed the video. How about doing some work with powertool batteries accessories like kobalt 24 lights with USB ports and other brands kobalt since that's what I have and could use it for night fishing. Thanks for your channel
How about testing the Bosch 12v light, they make 2 of them or at least they did and the more compact one with the built in carabiner/magnetic base took a beating from me for several years. I would be interested to see how it holds up against some of the more recent offerings.
I don't like to recommend a lot if stuff from hf but they have a light like the syclon and it is great last forever on low I don't use it on high very often don't really need it it is bright on low it is strong I drop it off the bottom of a car on a lift at full standing hight the magnetic is strong as heck the guys in the shop have the syclon and they break if I had one it would be broke in one day and it just feels cheap compared to the Braun light and that is sad coming from a harbor freight tool lol
I was really interested in the NEBO for a camp light until I saw that the red light is only good for 4 hours at 8 lumens as compared to the low setting at 12/30. Kinda weird...
Why does your meter number swing so wildly? I had the same one and it was pretty satisfied at staying in a smallish range once I had the light in place. Do you have a loose baffle or sensor?
Depends on the light source. Flashlights are pretty constant. Cob arrays and other types of lights meter the led and to the eye it looks the same but in measuring is more like pulses or a wave
In the firearms world, Olight is absolutely the subpar choice. Their weapon mounted lights cost as much as quality, more proven, lights, but fail during high round count courses or just by playing with it. I’ve had two fail on me and during their warranty period at that. I contacted Olight and they said it was pretty much my fault and to go away. I brought it to their Facebook groups attention and was deleted and blocked entirely. Olight is a sham. Invest in your equipment and it will take care of you.
As a mechanic, I can say that durability and run time is far more important that brightness. IMO the cyclops is a home run, on low mode it will last over 8 hours, I turn it on at the beginning of the day and don’t turn it off until I leave. I have broken one but they hold up pretty decent to drops. The plastic snap on is bright but run time is horrible, however I found it to be pretty durable. And I will say that Milwaukee light is hot garbage, run time not great but the magnet is horrible and I shattered to pieces in a couple of months. Good video as always, keep up the good work
I have Olight S2 which is the smallest light with 18650 battery. At low mode it gets 144 hours and at medium, about 24 hours. Fits inside pocket easily. Has strong magnet. Light produced is round and homogenous so good for repairing stuff.
Agreed! With a "too bright light" one only blinds himself and his co-workers
In my experience if a Snap-On light even gets close to any brake clean the overmolding gets slimy and starts peeling
like apple stuff... overpriced crap
Same with maxxeon
A test of 365nm UV lights for leak detection would be useful. We use black lights for testing welds on tanks, and I understand mechanics also use them for detecting leaks on engines and A/C systems.
Check out the Emisar D4v2 365nm light with filter.
I've had great luck with uvbeast 365nm lights. The v3 is very bright and things floresce even in fairly bright lighting conditions.
@@ButterBallTheOpossum Emisar is one of the best community influenced brands out there. No fake lumens, no unnecessary costs. 👍👍
I've been using the uvbeast v3 385-395nm primarily for automotive AC since I did some research and ultimately found a video of the v1 being used against some ~800 dollar lights. Didn't look like a ton of difference between them. It absolutely makes the lights sold by automotive tool companies look incredibly puny and weak. It was only around 60 dollars. All of the expensive brands want you to buy only their dye along with their lights as well. Lots of claims that there's no compatibility between different brands of dye/lights. I've found the uvbeast to work very well with a few different brands of automotive AC dye as well as our engine oil dye. Can't say how the 365nm would compare though. Would be very cool to see more comprehensive and scientific comparisons. This was a topic that I found very little information on. At least regarding automotive applications. Lots of marketing for little pen lights and such toward mechanics. There's no comparison to 20 dollar UV lights.
I’ve had good luck with the snap on one for ac work, I prefer nitrogen to find leaks though, one thing the goggles SUCK with the snap on uv light
*Update 5/10:* Okay, so purchased another Olight, this one reached 296lm i.imgur.com/Y9bCH1z.jpg. 26% off, still the most off from the bunch and what a weird light for this to be going on. This is the 1st time we don't have the next batch of lights lined up, so suggest what category of lights you want to see next!
See our winner Amazon page here: www.amazon.com/shop/torquetestchannel
Torque, who started TTC, is working in product development for Astro Tools who also makes the 100SL included in this test. If excluding those results makes the most sense for you, feel free. We encourage skepticism across all reviews. Always consider multiple sources when looking at a product!
I believe you got a lemon, I did some testing with my Olight swivel and the high mode is 2.3x of the medium, and when being run in high mode the output steadily decreases from 100% to 67% in exactly 10 minutes then it stays there for the remaining duration of the charge.
Medium mode mantains a flat output from start to finish which is what you observed in the runtime test.
@@willng34 That would be unfortunate. Thanks for the data! Usually these things get a one and done shot but now I'm curious too.
I was also going to say the Olight should have three settings on flood mode. I would reach out to them potentially seems like you may have gotten one that was messed up. My swivel is much brighter on high than the one you tested here.
Just to chime in, I have an Olight Swivel and it doesn't last anywhere near 8 hours in High - it's more like 4.5 hours. Pity you seemed to get a dud, but not really worth revisiting.
Being stuck in Medium would also explain why the lumen reading flickered so much (what with the LED duty cycle).
The harbor freight new icon under hood light. would like to see some testing of it
Light manufacturers: Make more lights with REMOVABLE 18650 or other similar Lithium batteries. I absolutely love the $20 harbor freight light and my old vape battery charger has been repurposed. Have two lights, change out the batteries when one dies, shuffle shuffle, keep you going all night on a project. The only downside is that it's a Harbor freight light, and very blue.
I would love to see some braking fluid (DOT 4.1 or 5.1) durability test additional, brake fluid killed a lot more tools than Coolant or oil in my case
Yeah dog brake fluid is a murderer not much stands a chance. But somehow that plastic resovior somehow lasts for ever
after having brake fluid on my maxxeon cyclops for all of 30 minutes (wasn’t much fluid), then cleaned off and left overnight, it started cracking and falling apart but still works, though i don’t use it because every adjustment just brings more cracks
@@joeyg29jgjg There are different types of plastics with different chemical resistances. Brake fluid reservoirs are probably made of HDPE.
I've had a couple of the Astro 700 lumen lights and I love them! I mainly use them to do suspension work and its perfect. I don't even use the high setting as its very bright. I bet that Astro 1000 lumen light is a beast! Nice reviews! Thanks!
What an amazing test guys thank you. I'm sold on that Astro. They continue to make very impressive tools and I'd be happy to spend my money with them. Keep Crushing the content gentleman!
Having a high CRI light is nice.
The super cheap very blue lights with low CRI make it difficult to tell wires apart... Is that wire light blue? Grey? Purple?
Not just nice, it's essential.
I work for telephone company. I can vouch for the color changes with lights. Orange and brown get mixed all the time.
Very blue light Is hard on the eyes.
I can't thank you guys enough for doing these tests. Getting gear and tools has been a crap shoot full of disappointment for a long time. Now we can at least spend our money wisely with these tests in mind.
I already have the wireless charge pad for the Astro tools and was wanting another..... that SL100 is KILLER! Thanks for these.
Hello Kyle Q
Thank you for commenting, I want to ask you about Astro charge pad. Does it really work or does it take longer to charge. Is worth buying. Again thank you
@@georgeferlazzo7936 Wireless will always take longer to charge, it's a limitation of the physics involved. But, it's nice being able to just drop your gear on the pad at the end of the day, and grab it straight off at the beginning of the next, without having to fiddle with cables. As long as you have downtime to let it wirelessly trickle charge (just like your phone or smart watch), then it's great.
@@PongoXBongo Hello PongoXBongo
Thank you for your response. I don't own a wireless charger yet and I am researching for my next purchase. Again thank you
@@georgeferlazzo7936 You're most welcome. Another alternative to wireless charging is mag-safe style cables for USB charged tools. Same tool, same plugin adapter, just a 3rd party cable with little magnetic cable ends. Grab'n'go without the weireless time penalty.
@@PongoXBongo Hello again PongoXBongo
Thank you very much
I have a Olight swivel and it’s kind of tricky for me to switch through the modes. That being said I believe the swivel was left on medium mode during your tests. Medium mode on the swivel is 160 lumens for 9hrs which is close what you got. And 400 for 5hrs. But if you made sure it was on high I’ll take your word for it! Love your videos man! Really enjoying the flashlight testing!
It was on the 2nd click, multiple times during the light duration testing we clicked through all its modes to make sure there wasnt some hidden 400 lumen one. Maybe ours was stuck on medium?
I'll be a monkeys uncle if the swivel cob was really tested on high and not medium.
Ive had the aluminum body Snorp on for a few years now and its my go to work lamp. A co worker dropped his 75' and it still worked afterwards.
I love my cyclops lights…I did a clutch and rear main on my truck, but didn’t clean up the sealing surface between the rear main housing and the block very well so it pissed oil…put it back on the lift the next weekend to tear it apart again (you can imagine how pleased I was) and found a cyclops light that I had left under there the previous weekend. Under there for a week, having hot oil pissed on it, probably drove 150 miles that week, plugged it in, fired right back up.
Another quality series of tests. Thank you!
Don't forget to replace those BBQ tongs.
Oh dang, thanks! Tri-tip this weekend
it's the quality of the brightness that matters for me . i have led shop work lights that are super bright but they are glaring and reflect off of surfaces
so much that it becomes difficult to focus on one specific area .
the best works light i have ever used were the halogen lights . super expensive to run and dangerously hot but the light from these bulbs created an even brightness throughout the room making it easy to focus on any object in any position .
I know you’ve tested headlamps before, but I would like to see another round of testing using only hard hat mountable options. Klein tools, ergodyne, Milwaukee, nightstick, etc
I have the 700lumen snap on light and it’s awesome. I brought it to work and stuck it to the ROPS of a mower (cause it didn’t have headlights!) and I could see EVERYTHING. I could see every stick, every golf ball, every pile of goose shit, everything. It made me able to start working before I normally would, which was great for days when we were prepping for a big event. The magnet kicks ass on it as well. I had no issues with it falling off no matter how fast I was hitting bumps.
Excellent comparison! While normally I don't like the SnapOn electronics and power tools, I gotta say the aluminum pod light has some benefits that aren't advertised. The Streamlights are always a great value with life time warranty of course.
The SnapOn aluminum pod light is very user serviceable IF you know the trick to reset the battery management circuit. The SnapOn warranty for power tools is only one year. And you can't just give it to the truck. They need to send it back which as of 2022 has been taking average of about 2 months. So you only have the light for about 10 months in warranty considering the batteries fail about yearly.
However they are built well and can handle being taken apart and serviced a few times easily. You can get a good quality 18650 cell to replace the stock medium quality one. I recommend the Sony Murata VTC6.
Once you solder in the new cell with the old BMS circuit transferred to the new cell, the light won't work or charge. It has gone into under-volt protection from being disconnected, or as I call it "Planned obsolesce" mode. To reset it you need to jump the positive input to the positive output. I have also come across one earlier model that instead needed the negatives jumped together. You can do both as jumping the one that's common just won't do anything. Once this is done it should work normally until low voltage mode is triggered again.
Nice review. My only recommendation is to give some weight to CRI on your chart. There's a lot of misconception currently with the LED market, where people believe that brighter is always better. In the automotive accessory world, it's a huge problem. A high power 6K LED light bar with a low CRI becomes very tiring to the eyes. Not only that, but it's harder to recognize objects and takes longer to process what you're seeing. On the other hand, a high CRI light doesn't usually need to be as powerful which means you're blinding yourself and others less. It also ideally should be a lower kelvin rating as well. I'm sure we've all heard why blue light is bad.
For some reason, it's incredibly difficult to find a 4300k-5000k LED with high CRI.
If we could measure CRI we would probably rank them with it. We can't currently
Currently having this discussion in regards to heavy plant that was fitted with high temp, low CRI LED that also emit ungodly amounts if RFI.
Operated at night moving a compost like product and it's just shades of blue under that light, it's very hard to make out the shade of brown that is the floor, and the brown that it's a pile of compost.
Been telling them they need to drop to 3200-3500K, preferably running conventionals (100% CRI) or some high end LED with at least 95%+
5K is still far too high for driving lights.
3200-3600K is the sweet spot, high performance tungsten runs closer to 3600K and is hard to beat both for driving and on stage/film
LED can never have a super high CRI. for 95+ you'd need xenon or HCI discharge lamps.
led drops massive in efficiency with high CRI.
@@casemodder89 you can get 95+ in LED, we use or for film/stage. But it's incredibly expensive to do so compared to tungsten
For example, these days I could buy cans for $1-2( each new or $400 used and run tungsten at $50 lamp.
Or, to do the same job, with less output and slightly lower CRI in LED it's $13,000 fixture and high end HMI is even more expensive.
Easier solution is just to throw more power at it, so rather than 2kW tungsten get the 5,16,25KW lamps out and you've scaled light output and kept your high CRI
Just watching the lights fly into the ground when spiking was hilarious. 11/10
You know they hit the ground hard when some blue plastic from the astro was left behind on the concrete!
You know Project Farm would have made a robot football player to spike it.
@@stevegee218 _"...robot football player..."_
😄😆😅😂🤣 Or a potato cannon.
Love the cyclops lights. I've crushed one it still worked stuck that same one on the oder side of a car. Hit a bump at 40mph and it scraped the road came off and bounced for a while. And it still works great
You dropped other lights on the Nebo repeatedly during the drop test and it still worked. I like it.
I love Olight’s products, EXCEPT for this one single model which is a huge disappointment in every way I can think of. I literally never use it while the 10 or so other models I have never cease to amaze both me and others.
This model actually has 3 different power settings.
Single click is mid, high is 2nd click and low is 3rd.
Not sure that it was on highest setting don't believe that was stated in review?
I just test levels myself now.
Bless your heart for doing a comparison on worklights. Your channel continues to be the go-to for REAL product evaluations in a very confusing market. For about 8 years I have been using as my primary worklight a Streamlight Knucklehead. My inspection light is a Streamlight Strion, my every day carry. I also own that terrible Snap On light you reviewed. Check out a Knucklehead. They are physically durable enough to work in a production environment and they are Very good at being a worklight. I use one daily when I do alignments because it clamps to the rack so securely and throws a ton of light. BTW I sent you my CP717 have you broke it yet?
Just showed up today!
I have both of the Snap On lights. The aluminum one is far brighter (or at least lights up the area better making it seem brighter), but mine flickers badly when fully charged (my dealer is getting it replaced for me though). The magnet is the same on both and the added weight of the al makes it much easier to knock off (even easier once you get some gunk built up on it). Then there's the Snap On premium that you get the pleasure of paying for.
Love the Syclone reference. Buddy of mine had one, and boy did we surprise a lot of folks at stoplights. Good times.
I have the 700 lumen Snap-on metal light and it’s superb. If the pivot isn’t where I want it I just rotate the light to stick on the underside of the hood. The metal housing is a huge bonus (along with the USB-C charge port).
Rather unflattering result for the Olight, particularly the chemical resistance - will have to remember to be cautious about that. I have two of them, I don't do mechanic work by trade though I must say that stamina - chef's kiss. I don't need a lot of light when grovelling under and in my car at night, it just has to be consistent and there and having torches that will run from sundown to midnight is a bonus. Medium setting, two of them works great as is the option to point it in beam.
Can’t speak for Streamlight’s other lights but I love my Macrostream. It lives in my pocket everyday at work for the past year or so and it’s held up to the abuse. Plus if I ever need a replace the rechargeable battery they’re only like $10.
Best light testing I've seen! Well done. But I think most people incorrectly get hung up on lumens. With a portable work light, how much light do you really need when working at arms length? For that type of work, durability and runtime are much more important. I've never had a light that put the light where I wanted it and thought, "I wish it was brighter." Will crazy bright get the job done any better? In some cases that extra brightness is a negative. It can hinder your vision, especially in flood mode when you are trying to see in a dark pocket and get an insane amount of reflected light from closer objects. My opinion, take it with a grain of salt.
Great testing as always! If you are looking for lights to test; a range of "tactical" lights would be great. I work in law enforcement, so it would be good to know if we are getting what we paid for. Are the Surefire lights really worth that much vs the more reasonably priced models from Fenix or Streamlight like the ProTac HL-X.
I've been using a Nextorch E55 at work. It's brighter than I've ever needed but it uses a standard 18650 battery with USB C charging and it lasts over a week.
You bet your buttons Surefire is Top Dog..
@@mackellyman5642 unless you include Modlight or Cloud Defensive, that actually are the top dogs in the weapon/tactical light game.
For the money you spend on any of the brands you named, I guarantee you aren't getting what you paid for. Look at convoy flashlights. They're just as much performance(if not more) they're repairable and they're 1/3 to 1/4 the price of any big name brands.
I like my Clore COB lights. Great light output and the battery output lasts a long time.
I work with a guy that has that Nebo, that thing is insanely durable. It's literally missing pieces and still works.
Hello again Torque Test Channel
Thank you for another Great Video. With all the testing you have performed. What light has been the overall success? I need one to work with me and not take a lot of charge time. I am just getting into the rechargeable lights. I have triple AAA batteries types. Which I want to move from. Safety is a Major Issue, I maybe in or near a aircraft fuel tank. Aircraft fuel is very volatile. No sparks allowed. As a Aircraft Mechanic, I maybe on a twelve hour shift. So at some point the light will need to charge. But I need to keep working. Again thank you
The light...The light, thanks I couldn't see with out the light... Creative testing and taught me about chemical resistance as I had not thought about that. I'll stick with the Milwaukee lights as I have that batttery platform already, Unless TTC finds a "must own" light. Then we will think about switching brands.. Thanks for the "Enlighten" on Lamination!!
Great video, I would love to have seen the Braun 750 lumen from Harbor Freight included in your testing, I have several of them and they appear to out perform the snap-on lights at a much lower price point.
Bauer not Braun??
@@generalsupreemo9776 nope, definitely Braun, look it up
I have the Braun and used it in a shop everyday. That light was awesome and definitely worth the $40!
Yes test the Braun!
Love my OLight products the durability is far better than most other brands my little batton is three years old used daily in steel plant heavy equipment repair and is holding up great
Snap on used to make one like that maxion and I bought it years ago and it's awesome
Olight…yeah, I bought a few of their cycle rear lights..pah! Brightness was great…not an issue, but they switch off if not detecting movement. Riding gently for a while I would come to a stop only then to find the rear light was off! Waiting to emerge at a junction for any time would also put the lights into sleep mode…making you vulnerable to any car coming up behind. At night you might realise the red glow behind has gone…but used as a daylight safety running light with no visible glow reflection, it was terrible. Plus the units are small…meaning small batteries, which are dead in under two hours. For nearly fifty bucks I expected better.
I feel like if you're a mechanic just wear a hat and put a rechargable headlamp on. Stops from losing them and dropping them. Also you always have light where you are looking.
Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnosics wears a head mounted light all the time on his channel. I don't know what kind but he probably has figured out what works best for him.
As an HVAC tech this is the way. I have 3 of the cheap energizer headlamps from Home Depot. All three still kicking, runs on 3AAA batteries.
@@morscovium8881 then you ignore a grown ass man thinking a headlamp makes you look like a dork cause at the end of the day he's just some judgmental fuckin loser.
When I was at a dealership the cornwell guy gave me 2 cyclops for $28 a piece. Might not be the brightest light ever but with 2 put in different angles, I can see just about anything I need to. The magnets are super strong and they’re bright and durable for the price
On the Nebo, having to cycle through the bright lights to get to the red light seems like a poor design. The point of the red light is to not mess so much with vision sensitized to low light. Turning on bright lights to get to the red light is counter productive.
Really wish the HF Braun magnet light would’ve been in this 😢
What about the lights that use the batteries you already have? The 18v/36v that go on your power tools?
I second this. I'd like to see how the Ryobi line-up stacks up against Milwaukee's etc.
I've got a Nebo. It's bright but it doesn't last long at all, even on their highest setting. Was disappointed with that. I got one of those flexible led strip headlamps which does decent, and in my car I have a streamlight strion led and charger wired in, which are both my go to lights. Flashlights and knives. Gotta love em
I'm actually surprised on how robust that Nebo was for you. I dropped mine from about 4 feet at work and it started being unreliable
And here I am still using Grandpa's old 60-watt incandescent plug-in shop light. Filament bulbs don't like drops, but eh, it's been working fine for 70 years now and I'm just a shadetree so it's not like I'm having to rely on it for my paycheck.
Also fits in nicely when I'm working on a 70 year old car.
I have a nebo like this one and it works great! Very durable
Long Live the gmc Syclone!
Okay, but Harbor Freight has those great little lights for a dollar or two and they work well. Not rechargeable, but you can change batteries or just buy them by the case. I have my old Mag-Lite lights I still use, but I do use the HF puck lights...
brutal testing... i loved it
A wurrkos dive light might surprise you. 6061 aluminum housing, waterproof to more than 100 ft and very bright for less than or around $100 depending on the model genwiss also makes some good lights
Fun fact, (or assumption) the olight seems to be a rebranded no name chineese light, that can be had on eBay with a mircousb charging slot instead of USB c, but also for about $11
thanks for this! disappointed in the olight lying about lumens but never seen a light last that long at 200 lumens. you might see that on a medium or low setting of 100 or less lumens
im a budget guy but also love my lumens. astro won easy as its really the only one that even performed well in the runtime imo. the cyclops is a good budget option
Great content as always. I have a Nebo pen style light with many settings on it as well as the laser built in and love it, very robust and many great uses. Interested in how the new ICON light and some of the GearWrench lights stack up.
My shop uses 2 different Snap-On lights, one like the 400 lumen ABS that's been in use since 2021, and one that looks just like the Cyclops, but with the charge indicator in the lamp bezel. Our Cyclops Snap-On only has 2 modes, and might be a 400 lumen model. The Cyclops clones take many hours to charge, but use the microUSB chargers, while the ABS ones charge quickly and use Type C chargers. Also, our Cyclops clones have a vertical row of LEDs in the bezel, but the housings look exactly like the real Cyclops, even down to the charge port cover flap.
EDIT: The drop and dunk test results make sense. Our shop saw one of the ABS Snap-Ons die, but the 3 Cyclops clones we have are still trucking, even though the charge port flaps have fallen apart.
For context, my shop provides all tools, and we aren't allowed to use our own tools.
Manufacturers take note, there is NO excuse for making anything but junk-tier lights which do not laugh off sprayed solvents and liquid immersion. That's a deal breaker for mechanics and TTC doing the solvent test is very, very cool! Nebo ordered (which I'll back up with my Anker power brick so it can charge while in use).
Klein makes a work light very similar to the olight. After seeing that performance I’m glad I never got the orange one I’ve been waiting on.
Astro also has a comparable light to the cyclops and snap on in 700ish lumen I think.
Wife got me a NEBO light 3 years ago, still works great even agter dropping it hundreds of times, the clip will break off of it in the first ten minutes of owning it..it will break itself off no need to touch it , but the magnet works great bright light, thank you wifey.
Why would you drop your lights hundreds of times?? You just like wasting money on new tools? LOL
I have the aluminium snap on and can confirm that the fact that it doesn’t rotate all the way is very annoying. I prefer the older ecfhky which I’ve had for years.
It’s better in every way
I'm a streamlight fan, use the Strion switchblade folder at work. Little UV is handy.
Hello @Torque Test Channel, 5 volts 3 amps is considered the lowest rating for fast charge, while 5 volts 2 amps is highest rating for normal charge.
I went on a course of lighting tech, and I believe there is an error at 1:20 there abouts.
To my knowledge the CRI is compared agains black body radiator (read: incandecent lightbulb) which would always have a CRI of 100. Not sunlight. Thus CRI can be thought of "how closely the light matches a traditional lightbulb in color rendering."
The reason this bugs me is that I've sold LED-lights for 5 years, and clients usually want the highest CRI source just because number is bigger. Flat-ish spectrum lamps would be desirable, but CRI would be low because the number is comparing them to crappy light source: the incandecent bulb which has a triangle shaped spectrum. This is why I have usually adviced my clients to get CRI-80-90 LEDs. Those are more efficient and better light thatn CRI95 for example. But forget CRI70 stuff if you need to do work :D
Please correct me if I am wrong, I don't want to keep faulty information in my head! Nice work with the testing setup!
We have a hand full off the snap on aluminum lights. Wish the battery life was little better but love them. They have taken some serious abuse.
I use the abs snap on light often and work and it’s been soaked in chemicals and dropped and still works like a champ! Feels like it takes days to charge tho lmao better off owning 2 to prevent downtime
Thanks for shedding some light on work lights.
I work slow so I like the olight but I'm not surprised at the bogus lumen rating, they're a cheap, decent light that lasts a long time, something has to give and in this case it's light output. That Rover does look good though, I may have to check one of those out next time I'm at the store.
instead of "out of 10" for the more subjective categories, i would have it be a percentage on a curve. the highest would be 100% (or just 1) and the rest would be a percentage of that. that way, everything is scored relative to the "best" performer in that category. minor change, but it removes the implication that one is the best possible of all lights, even those not tested
I have a snap on I think 400ish lumen probably the same one in the video. It’s close in lumen rating to the fast charge version which cost a lot more but the performance of the two are totally different. The fast charge version is much brighter.
Streamlight Knucklehead. I love mine. It is my "go to" light at the shop!
Very interesting! My Klein 56403 worklight has been a brave soldier but I'm looking to add another, maybe higher powered, light so this is good knowledge!
I love your presentation, great vid and informative
Working for Astro doesn't make a difference to me, if anyone says you aren't fair in testing your products, then they're blind (you beat the snot out of the 100sl). Even if you didn't, it wouldn't stop me from buying Astro products.
You might consider doing this with hard hat mounted work lights. Milwaukee, Klein, + others. There’s many to pick from and obviously a big market for them.
my aluminium snap ons stay on for about 15-20 minutes. they get really hot too. I used them for 2 years every day. The charging port broke on one and the other one is missing all the rubber around the light, the switch and the charging cover. Not really happy for the price and no warrenty.
id like to see figures for light cone size at 1, 3 and 6ft wich are fairly typical application distances
shud be pretty easy to measure using some graph paper or a tape measure that you shine the light at
i accidently left my walmart/harbor freight light up next to a differential over the weekend one time and came back to it still being on.Very much dimmed, but still on
Not sold on amazon, but you all should test some INTL-outdoor lights. They're quite popular in the flashlight enthusiast circles.
The harbor freight Braun/ snap on knock off would be nice to see tested I use them at work 1 on charge one in use they do the job but I feel like they’re not the 750 advertised lumens but for 30 bucks it’s hard to beat
Did you guys test the stream light syclone Jr from the matco truck? I have one and really like it. Battery life is good on low, high isn't all that great. And it's pretty durable. From my testing.
I love the Nebo lights. I hate the one with the red light. I usesd it for tech work for many years! before I started to do You Tube, I now use it to spot light stuff on shots I could not get light on as it is small. You should test the cheap set lights they sell on amazon. like the newwer lights!
Another great video. Do you have a Dropbox or Google drive where you share that spreadsheet? Also I would love to see you add a column with your score so i can keep better track while watching (my memory is not what is used to be...). These are odd lights because they are not flashlights but they are also not plug in area lights - but i would use a light like the for quick unexpected projects like work in a garage, under a car, in a crawlspace, etc... and camping is always asking for long lasting, durable lights, that Oilight looks awesome for this, that runtime is a weeks worth of nighttime area lighting after hours... Cheers!
Can you test magnet strength? My biggest issue with these types of lights is accidentally bumping it and having it fall into a bilge. Whatever I stick it to usually has thick layers of paint as well, so that doesn't help. Another good test would be to shoot sparks at it with a grinder. Some lights I've had I've even been able to shower with big gobs of weld spatter, others not so much.
Need to do some bargain-bin camping and/or worklight comparisons. The hardware stores, big box stores, and Walmart always seem to have something in this regard. Some of the COB strip lamps are good enough for less than $20, and probably make for a rather good deal when nearing the $5 point. Can't say much about most qualities, but they tend to be ok in terms of run-time and brightness. In terms of features, magnets and some kind of clip seem to be common. Might even be fun to see if any of those venture into the territory of the lights on this video's test run.
Loved the syclone reference 👍
I can’t tell you how many of those snap on lights I’ve left on customers vehicles. Those things are pretty good but now I buy the maxxeon
100%, The Cyclops lives in that perfect spec and price zone of you dont have to worry too much about them driving off
Glad i saw this because i was actually planning to buy a couple of those olights.
I have had a 12v dewalt light for years! Probably since it was first introduced to the market, it has a belt clip, magnet and swivel head. When it’s time to search for the dog at night it is like a search light beam, and when I’m working in a craw space it lights the whole area up. It is awesome, 12v lithium charges super fast and it came in a kit with a drill and impact driver for $199. Maybe you could do a video on “rechargeable battery” tool style lights? Thanks great vid.
I'd like to see similar test of the stick lights. Like matco MWL900, MHHFL600, streamlight switchblade, etc. The long adjustable stick lights are essential under the hood.
th-cam.com/video/lj_2dN6LTmo/w-d-xo.html
Would love to see the Streamlight Stinger 2020 compared to other lights in its category. I just bought one and I love it so far.
Please test Nitecore lights. They have quite a selection, mainly for law enforcement, tactical use
Would like to see the streamlight flipmate tested I’ve really enjoyed mine and am curious to see how it stacks up
Would love to see you test 18-20v work lights from the major rechargeable tool lines.
Hey TTC enjoyed the video. How about doing some work with powertool batteries accessories like kobalt 24 lights with USB ports and other brands kobalt since that's what I have and could use it for night fishing. Thanks for your channel
How about testing the Bosch 12v light, they make 2 of them or at least they did and the more compact one with the built in carabiner/magnetic base took a beating from me for several years. I would be interested to see how it holds up against some of the more recent offerings.
I don't like to recommend a lot if stuff from hf but they have a light like the syclon and it is great last forever on low I don't use it on high very often don't really need it it is bright on low it is strong I drop it off the bottom of a car on a lift at full standing hight the magnetic is strong as heck the guys in the shop have the syclon and they break if I had one it would be broke in one day and it just feels cheap compared to the Braun light and that is sad coming from a harbor freight tool lol
I was really interested in the NEBO for a camp light until I saw that the red light is only good for 4 hours at 8 lumens as compared to the low setting at 12/30. Kinda weird...
This test would be also great for inspections lamps for surface treatments, also test if the true to life colour is also a real thing
Why does your meter number swing so wildly? I had the same one and it was pretty satisfied at staying in a smallish range once I had the light in place. Do you have a loose baffle or sensor?
Depends on the light source. Flashlights are pretty constant. Cob arrays and other types of lights meter the led and to the eye it looks the same but in measuring is more like pulses or a wave
In the firearms world, Olight is absolutely the subpar choice. Their weapon mounted lights cost as much as quality, more proven, lights, but fail during high round count courses or just by playing with it. I’ve had two fail on me and during their warranty period at that. I contacted Olight and they said it was pretty much my fault and to go away. I brought it to their Facebook groups attention and was deleted and blocked entirely.
Olight is a sham. Invest in your equipment and it will take care of you.
I'd have loved to see a Klarus in the mix, they are really great lights for the money.