Something we tested yesterday just after making this is low-profile adapters like: amzn.to/3leaKL3 These lessened the huge 3/8" to 1/2" loss down to 10-16%, so it must have to do with the anvil being pushed out and away from the square drive on the socket, which doesnt help with that vibration either (see 2:52, the socket is a blur). Likely for the same (less) vibration reason, we also saw less % loss on weaker guns. For instance a 3/8" M12 stubby and our knock-off makita saw consistently less % loss, but still the same relationship between adapter types as in this episode. Torque who started TTC is working in product development for Astro Tools, always consider multiple sources when considering a tool!
Torque rods work by actually bending and absorbing the impact... I presume all other adapters are subject to this as well as perhaps longer sockets depending upon the material they made of...
@Torque Test Channel now do this test again all with air impacts and see if there is a difference in %loss. Or try with electric guns that run at different rpms (high rpm small hammer) vs (low rpm big hammer) with extensions/adapters
We've tried 6 brands with no correlation so far, including Snap-On. Edit: Though if you're increasing rather than reducing, these seem to make a difference: amzn.to/3leaKL3
@@TorqueTestChannel i was trying to remove lugnuts on my tractor with a couple extension and an impact and it wouldn't come off. if i pressed the gun really hard into the extensions and lugnuts it came loose immediately. try that. push pretty hard into all the extensions, as if you were using a screw gun
Probably could matter, any kind of slop in fitment takes up some of the impacting force but also you can only make it so tight since you need to be able to get them on and off easily enough so the difference is probably very small
I just went down a 1.5hr youtube rabbit hole to find out if 3/8 square drive impact wrenches can be adapted to 1/4 hex, to save myself buying a "weaker" 1/4 hex impact driver. After sloshing through so many "cool" and "manly" fellas doing niche reviews, I find this. A truly genuine, no BS, channel devoted to presenting real information via the scientific method. In the first three minutes alone, you distilled far more important information than my entire rabbit hole. Thank you. Instant fan here.
I went with a 1/2" one instead of 1/4" hex because I might not need the full power when driving regular screws but I absolutely will need it when changing the tires of my car. The max my impact wrench can do is 300Nm so plenty even with a bit of loss.
In industrial settings everything is 1in air hose and chicago fittings. Plant air is usually not anymore than 130 or so psi but flow is never a problem. Some of the bigger guns will use 2 1in lines, 3 men and a crane to hold the weight. Nowadays that type of work is usually done with hydraulic wrenches or super nuts. Great work guys.
Not to mention how inefficient air is, your energy costs will be much higher running that massive compressor compared to charging up a couple batteries.
You need an "air receiver tank" hooked up between the tool and the supply at the wall. It'll help alot with the pressure drop problem your having. You can run 3/4 line from the storage tank to the tool and it will be cheaper than redoing all the line.
Need the tank pumping air into a big holding tank filled up then turned on backing up the air that's being used to keep up but enough air to supply the gun, or just ask the company wat they are using for there tests there probably tell u
Super video! I’ve been using my Milwaukee 1/2” high torque to remove lug nuts from trucks and heavy equipment for a couple of years now. I’ve found that using a 1/2” drive socket works much better than 3/4” drive with an adapter. I had assumed that the additional wiggle room in the setup eats up all the beans, but now I know.
Thank you for this video showing the results of using adapters on impact wrenches. This was surprising and quite informative. Now I know why the Earthquake XT 3/8" impact I recently tried was much weaker than advertised. It would not break my lug nuts loose which were torqued to 140 ft-lbs. I was using a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter on it. I found the advertised tightening torque of 160 ft-lbs to be 110 ft-lbs as verified with my Snap-On torque wrench. That's very close to the 27% reduction you demonstrated. Wow! I returned the Earthquake XT 3/8" impact to Harbor Freight and replaced it with a 1/2" Ultra Compact air impact. I have not had a chance to try that one out yet but I will definitely keep in mind the effect of reducers and extensions. I assume these adapters would affect an air impact wrench the same as a cordless impact?
Yes I haven't tested it myself but physics says extending where the turn point is, or having tiny gaps in connectors will reduce torque strength. I imagine the U-Joints for angles also reduces it quite a bit. I imagine a 3" reduces it less than 5" and 10" extensions. If you had a swivel/Universal joint socket on the end it could increase the loss by 0.5-2x depending on where it's at? (The nut/bolt end or directly connected to the wrench/ratchet/breaker) I have no clue how much loss there will be on combinations of different types of varying sizes and drive adapters used with swivel sockets/adapters
I also bought only ½" drive sockets and I'm getting a ½" dr Ryobi One+ HP 18v brushless Impact Wrench. I'm planning on ordering and paying off Gearwrench 6pt, 15pc Wrench set (metric) after watching this channel show 6 point wrenches beat 12 point and spline for not stripping or slipping on bolts/nuts. But I have a decent CR-V Impact socket set in metric coming from Amazon between the 3rd-7th all in ½". If I have to I'll use an adapter but I'd rather buy the sockets or wrenches I don't have in ½"/6pt box end/reversible ratcheting wrench set. I normally buy wrench & socket sets that have no missing ones. My Gearwrench on the way is 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 20mm, 21mm, 22mm. The ratcheting reversible Tollamark wrwnch set is 12pc from 8mm-19mm nothing missing. My Jeep is fully metric so I'm normally good with metric only. I honestly don't like SAE because of all the crazy fractions and not knowing if I'm missing a tool so I'll buy a metric replacement bolt&nuts set for suspension from BelMetric: SAE Grade 8/Metric Grade 10.9. My rear socks are: M12x1.75x70mm bot bolt M12x1.75x80mm top bolt (Hex Flange, Partial Thread, Coarse thread) Nut are M12x1.75 Grade 8/10.9 Sorry for ranting 😅
This makes me feel better about my choice to buy all my impacts as 1/2" and use the 3/8" or 3/4" adapters. Now I can estimate my torque losses better. This channel has become one of my favorites. Thanks guys!
You can get lots of things done with just 1/2 and 1/4", just have to be mindful of what kinds of power you're laying down because driving an M14 bolt with 1/2" can easily go south
@@lolatmyage You can definitely get a lot done with those two. I have a small astro nano 1/2", an earthquake 1/2", and a skinny electric 1/4" snap-on ratchet. With good swivels for them, there's not much that forces me to grab a ratchet or wrench
For the 3/4 pneumatic impacts you should try running a second 20ish gallon air tank inline just a couple of feet of 1/2" hose with only a tee fitting for the pressure gauge running to the gun
I have a 20 gallon buffer tank fed by my regulated air. My 1” impact is connected to the buffer tank with a 3/4” hose about 10 yards long. Works well even with a very basic compressor, haven’t put a gauge at the impact admittedly.
I believe this. I have the 3/4” earthquake XT on my service truck, only tool that always takes cutting edge nuts off between my coworkers. I always used a 3/4”-1/2” adapter to fit a 30mm socket on it. Finally bought a 3/4” drive 30mm and got the chance to use it the other day. It took them off so much easier I couldn’t tell if they were properly put on!
I currently work at fedex as a diesel mechanic. I was curious since I run my 3/4 snap on impact. Our lines are run at 140psi and it drops to 100psi. Our shop uses 1 Ingersoll rand compressor and the shop is large. By size it can fit about 24 single axle semi trucks inside the shop. I'm sure there are a lot of other heavy duty mechanics that watch your channel. Would be nice if you could one day test the 3/4in air stuff.
Agreed. I would love to see the 3/4” stuff. maybe even without ideal air pressure to see if they are still worth using if you can’t feed them proper air.
Wow, didn't expect there to be that large of a loss going 3/8 to 1/2. An adapter is by far cheaper, but perhaps this gives more value to having both sizes in the same body/tool (ex. having both 3/8 & 1/2 stubby or mid-torque).
Do you mean from the 27% from 3/8 going up to 1/2. While having both is the right answer a 7% loss doesn't seem terrible if you are trying to break free a smaller bolt
@@clion520 sorry, I corrected my original post. I did mean 3/8 to 1/2. No, I don't see any issue going 1/2 down to 3/8 other than the fact that adapters snap easily. Seeing this, it makes more sense why ShopToolReviews welded the adapter to the socket, although this does bring up a scenario that was not taken into account in this test....if you take out the slop by welding it, is there a loss of power?
@@98ChevyK1500Z71 also.. ex. Having both 3/8 and 1/2” guns, as well as have 3/8 and 1/2” sets of metric and SAE impact sockets. Deep... and shallow. 🤔 maybe someday I’ll get there 😂
I'm happy because I have the Makita 18v 1/2 inch impact wrench and only occasional use a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter to undo 46mm nuts and I notice little torque loss. Very interesting. I've been waiting for this video. Thankyou!
Hey Nick So you wouldn't trade your 1/2 in to a 3/4 in? I also have the Makita 1/2 in with 1000Nm (DTW1002 in Europe) but was always wondering if I made the right choice
@@MattPrimefulL no I wouldn't trade it. I'm happy with it having owned it nearly 2 years. You can also buy 1/2 inch big sockets aswell so no need for an adapter. Most of the sockets I use aren't big anyway. Also It's very rare to come across any nut that the 1/2 inch won't remove which also applies to the 3/4 inch. Overall I'm glad I bought the 1/2 inch because most of my sockets used are 17mm, 19mm, 24mm and most often are 1/2 inch drives.... the minority of sockets are 3/4 and even the bigger ones nowadays are made for 1/2 drive.
3/4 air would still be interesting. As you stated most people are not getting the advertised torque ratings due requiring such a high static pressure. The video would be a nice way to determine if the 3/4 is worth it over a 1/2 air even at the lower pressure. If the 3/4 air still gets a significant amount more torque, then there still might be a place for it in the tool box.
I’ve got a Cornwell 1/2-3/8ths adapter that’s treated me pretty well. It’s survived my Astro 1894 and my bosses Milwaukee hi-torque for about 4 months now.
Real work scenario I’ve experienced is short sockets seem to break loose really tight bolts better than deep sockets. A lot of times the deep sockets won’t even loosen at all no matter how long you hammer on it. Have you tested this yet?
@@TorqueTestChannel With size adapters and a torq wrench, would the adapters affect the result of the torque wrench? i just bought some for this purpose.
I've massacred four 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapters doing this in 15 minutes just on 19-21mm lug nuts. I use an old USA made Craftsman breaker bar and it doesn't flex while going thru these adapters like butter.
@@raph882The answer to your question is no. The centerline of the drive end of torque wrench and centerline of bolthead/nut will be the same, so it is not affected. Heck, you can use a whole bunch of extensions, as long as they are in a straight line from fastener to torque wrench, the torque wrench will still apply proper torque.
Nice test. Interesting to see that the step ‘downs’ showed a disproportionate decrease in transmission of power over the step ‘ups’! I have the Makita DTW1002Z 18V Brushless ½" Impact Wrench (rated at 1,600nm of nut busting capacity) and wanted more grunt, so, as a solution, I went out and bought the Makita TW001GZ 40Vmax XGT Brushless ¾" Impact Wrench (rated at 2,050nm of nut busting capacity) to boot. With my impact sockets being all ½" drive, I also purchased the ¾" to ½" drive step down adaptor. Taking into account the 19% loss in power using the step down adaptor (as witnessed in this video) means the 2,050nm becomes 1,660nm gaining virtually nothing for my NZ$729 (skin only) purchase plus 40v battery platform upgrade!
I've been ridiculed several times about using a 2767 milwaukee with 1/2 to 3/4 adapter to a larger 3/4 drive socket taking off semi lugs. good to see some actual numbers. I've also broken 2 of the 1" to 3/4" step down adapters using 1" air impact with 3/4" drive socket. you wouldn't think a 3/4" drive adapter would break but indeed they will!
Thanks for this video. I always wondered just how much it was, knowing there was a big loss in practice in the shop. Anytime something would not loosen, removing the adapters and hitting it with all same size sockets and limiting extensions always does the trick...or snaps it off.
The subscribers!! The views!!! Incredible!! Was able to find out I subscribed over a year ago!!! You guys are the best.... WOULD REALLY LIKE AN UPDATE ON HOW YOUR NEW JOB IS GOING!!!
I use the 1/4 in Dewalt driver for so many fasteners on autos. Mostly on interior and accessory fasteners. I also understand it capabilities and switch to 1/2 in impact when necessary.
So In our shop with a regulator we run our compressor at 175-180 piped 120ft with 3/4" black gas pipe and roughly 400ft total for the 3/4" loop left right and center runs. At the regulator we can very easily hit 90psi dynamic pressure. The compressor is an 80 gallon Devilbiss compressor twin stage @15hp on split phase 240v phase2/3 motor rated at 25hp 3ph. The DeVilbiss 80gal tank is dated 1945 and has max working psi of 230. The First stage appears to be a 1970 twin cyl dual displacement vertical pump and second stage is a 1975 V-twin type single displacement pump. Its clearly custom or Frankensteined together to make the ultimate shop compressor. This configuration has been in operation since 1978. The max dynamic pressure we can hit at the regulator is 144 psi for about 8 minutes, 120psi for about 12.5 minutes and 90psi for about 15 minutes coming down to about 77psi continuous dynamic out of the system with an empty or equalized tank. We run 1/2" rubber airline to the tool.
Milwaukee 3/8 user here...beast of a gun. Crazy to see the loss from the 3/8 to 1/2. Only time I use that is for lug nuts of the domestic vehicle variety, no heavy duty stuff, so plenty of power for that even with an adapter. Just gives me an excuse to buy more tools if ever I need more power.
Well, lol, I am for one am thankful for these tests. I am also thankful for the mindfulness to try instead of break. I broke the head off of a 1/2 breaker bar when not realizing that my axle socket had seized to my hub face, had begun to employ "extreme" measures. After beating the "correct" size socket off the nut, I tried the same impact gun one socket size up, and it ripped the nut off no problem. Lesson was that enough space is needed both around and in front of a socket to move the nut. :)
When we first saw it, we thought we did something wrong. There's no way we and everyone with similar shop air can be only driving 3/4" impacts at 80-90% beans, right?
@@TorqueTestChannel Can i just point out that you said you removed the wall regulator but you have a regulator connected straight to the tool, in my experience regulators always reduce flow so try putting a tee piece on the tool with a pressure gauge on it.
In industrial settings everything is 1in air hose and chicago fittings. Plant air is usually not anymore than 130 or so psi but flow is never a problem. Some of the bigger guns will use 2 1in lines, 3 men and a crane to hold the weight. Nowadays that type of work is usually done with hydraulic wrenches or super nuts. great work guys.
SUPER curious about the low profile adapters. Basically a cover that just slides over a 3/8 to make it a 1/2, they add little to no extra length, maybe this would get rid of some losses.
I recently bought a set of lo pro adapters from Ares (maybe Titan, I forget) because I worry about damage to the anvil when using the standard ones. Haven't used them yet but they fit beautifully. Amazon has a few offerings
I believe the slack between adaptors is cushioning the impact. To test this I would like to see them weld the adaptors to the socket. It would have to be a good weld and insure everything is almost perfectly lined up. This is because i also believe that angles cushion as well. If I am right, it will either greatly minimize or completely eliminate the loss. I haven't read comments from others, so if I have stepped on someone else's idea, I apologize.
When looking to see where the air pressure is dropping running large guns, i would be looking for the smallest diameter the air has to pass through between the air tank and the gun as that would be the weak link in the chain. The obvious thing i would change is that l when testing the air pressure i would fit a t-piece with air in-pressure gauge-air out so the air to the gun can flow as freely as possible. This would mean that you would still be getting the true line pressure rather than all the air going to the gun having to flow though the pressure regulator first.
@@TorqueTestChannel would a 1’ to 1/2” Y adaptor leading into two 1/2” hoses, and then another Y adaptor directly into the air gun work? Bypassing the 3/4” pipe?
You caught me off guard with the 1/2" to 3/8" adapters not lasting. I bought two matco adapters of that type almost 10 years ago and use them fairly often and never had one break. They utilize a totally different style than comparing brands featuring a keyed-removable shank that I think helps them apply the pressure points elsewhere and not at the cone tip. Anyhow, awesome video. I loved seeing this as I use adapters daily
I *just* ran into this problem, not having the exact right tool, last week! I was ashamed! I needed to take the wheel off my motorcycle, but didn't have a socket that large in 3/8". Instead I just got my heckin chonker 1/2" socket set and the Ridgid hi torque. Massive overkill. This also let me discover the stock toolkit on the Honda ATAS doesn't have any tools to remove wheels!
I have a Makita XWT15Z that I run a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter all day long. yeah the adapter breaks eventually, maybe every few weeks haven't actually measure the time, but it does work. Now that I know I'm only loosing 7% or so, I don't think that is bad. the Makita XWT16Z the 3/8 version is rated 20 fl-lb lower on the max torque, and 50 ft-lb lower on nut busting, so at 7% it's a wash. But with the 1/2 i'm more versatile.
I’m a tool idiot. Horribly! If I use an adapter set. But extension is 6” or 12”, how is torque affected? If I need to remove a stubborn bolt. Which shall I use! Thx
I Mainly use the adapters, when I'm just loosening those 8mm bolts on the fender liners. No force needed, just much quicker to use the one powertool I have around. Putting them back in I go extremely careful so that I wait for a single click. Thats my personal torque spec on those screws.
Hello again Torque Test Channel Thank you for another Great Video. I would have thought Otherwise. But seeing it in action. Wow, what a difference. And this happens no matter how you set it up? Amazing, Again thank you
Can't wait to see losses from hex adapters measured, like in your M18 Frankenstein episode, where the driver with an anvil swapped into it spanked hard. Kudos to Mancaver
so i know you've done this, battery size, and all hose stuff for air guns. but what about power loss with low battery? at what level should you stop using and charge it.
When I bought my 3/8 I intended to use it with very light duty 1/2 work sometimes. They make a 1/2 version of the same tool but having may other 1/2 that suit the bill, and with most of the 3/8 outperforming the 1/2 of the same versions around here I got a set of step up adapters. I don't know that it makes any difference but the ones I got sit directly atop the anvil making it less of an extension and more of an adapter. Fitment is probably more important than length but it would be nice to know. It works out to be only 1/8 or so longer than the original anvil. They are called low profile adapters.
Can you do a video on fitting size on different air hoses? Curious if running a smaller fitting at the end of a big hose will limit power on impact guns.
Now we need a culmination Science episode. We need a dyno run of all the different extensions you can put on an impact. I'm talking extension into u-joint into reducer/adapter. BECAUSE SCIENCE!!!
I wrap some tape around to keep the adapter and drivebit from falling off the head and rolling out of reach, also just in case something shatters the parts won't be flying as fast.
Wtfbbq! Love it guys! I've never broken an adapter but mine are S&K from the '70's and I never use them with impact anything only hand tools. I mainly use the 3/4" to 1/2" reducer for axle nut bell sockets on the Dana 70/80 full floating rears.
I had to use my 1/2" m12 stubby with a 1/2 to 3/4 AND a 3/4 to 1" adapter to go onto this giant custom socket for some robotics work. It didn't need high torque, but was just a massive size. I found that due to the slop between the adapters the majority of power was being lost. After running it several times I noticed the adapters were very hot. Not an ideal setup for impacts, but for linear force it would be fine
why the fuck did algorithm make me stumble across u in the middle of the week, I'm already an hour past my bedtime and I still wanna keep going. Well, at least I know what I'll do the rest of the week.
Logical. There's always a certain amount of Play Between all adapters and sockets and of course Fasteners and as you multiply the things between the gun and the Fastener you're multiplying the play and therefore the loss. I would think this also has to do with continual wear on sockets ,extensions , adapters and fasteners as well. Good content. Thank you
Couldn’t tell ya the numbers but at my work we have a duel 2 stage air compressors plumed together on 1/2inch line. With the 3/4 and 1 gun we can work about 3 or 4 minutes before we have to stop and let the air build back up. M24 sized bolts that are tightening to like 600ish pounds
I didn't notice if you've done torque losses with adapters, extensions and actual torque wrenches, but that is for sure something many people need to see and understand 👍
Always wondered this- my IRC9000 and my PT850 will always break a Honda crank bolt more easily when I have a 1/2F/3/4M adapter and a 3/4” drive 19mm snap-on deep socket on it
Maybe you could do a test comparing losses to the tightness of fit. An adapter which is loose rotationally could absorb some of the impact energy. An adapter which drops more could perhaps cause the tool to wobble more. That would be an interesting test. Measure the maximum rotation or drop angle and the pressure applied at the maximum angle. Perhaps tape an accelerometer to the tool too.
I never would've thought the losses would be anywhere near as dramatic. "Hey babe, turns out I need two more impact guns even though the one I have is fine."
It would be interesting to see if there is a loss when using an adapter on a manual breaker bar. I've given up on 1/2" breaker bars and use 3/4" breaker bar with 3/4" to 1/2" adapter.....I haven't broken or bent a breaker bar since this switch.
This was very helpful combined with your 3/8” vs 1/2” anvil comparison. I recently bought my first impact driver and got 3/8” because that’s what most of my sockets are. Two takeaways: 1) overall I made the right choice matching anvil to available sockets, but 2) I probably should replace my 1/2” deep sockets with 3/8” to fit the tool. Any recommendations on big, deep sockets available in 3/8” drive? For example, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm.
It would be interesting to drill and tap an adapter for a single set screw to force it in the removal direction relative to the anvil where most power is needed for automotive use. That would eliminate the slop since the gun anvil would be fully CCW inside the adapter.
I used a vintage Husky USA 27203 1/2 to 3/8 reducer on my gen 2 Milwaukee mid torque impact at full power to remove a stuck Allen bolt. Nothing broke. Guess my reducer is a lucky one
I always use larger line than 1/2 inch for the 3/4 and 1 inch tools But since I got my Makita 1/2 inch 18V impact I rarely use those larger air tools any more.
The only thing I learned is that you guys are really funny. From years of experience, I knew that to reduce or increase size was power reduction. I also knew that Mac had the strongest 1/2 impact although I was mostly a snap-On kid of guy. Mac was mostly a "come off" or "brake off" tool either way was a fast option. Snap-On sockets were pretty much bullet proof. Thanks again.
I've had plenty of snap on sockets fail chrome and impact. I've had bolts that a snap on socket would round but if i used a craftsman USA sockets came off no problem. I've beaten the hell out of cheap 10mm 3/8 husky chrome sockets using an IR2235 and though they wallow out I've yet to have one crack so far. IMO the only socket that snap on makes that is some what superior are their impact swivel sockets, and I've cracked/worn out four of those within two years. Their normal sockets are over priced no better than what I can buy at the box store for 5 bucks a socket.
I have a chrome duralast 1/2 to 3/8 adapter that seems to refuse to die. First time I used it, in 2014, attempted to rip lug nuts off a car with a breaker bar. About 6 feet from the lug nut with about 260 lbs bouncing on it. Didn't get the lug nut but I still use it to this day. So I'm wondering if the chrome adapters (while not "right") on an impact work better than the impact adapter.
Forgive me if this has already been tested or discussed on your channel, but could you test if there are any effects in loosening conical seat lug nuts? I’ve experienced, my buddy as well, Milwaukee stubbies struggling to remove conical lug nuts, on aluminum rims, tightened at 150 ft-lbs. Thanks!
How does the anvil on the Milwaukee not break? I have seen ratchet testing with 3/8" ratchets and they break at like 200-300ft lbs (the higher end ones being the ones without the detent pin/quick release since that makes the anvil stronger) but this Milwaukee it putting out almost 500 ft lbs? How on a 3/8"? How does the anvil not sheer off?
How much torque do I lose when I use my 1/4 milwaukee impact for 1/4, 3/8,1/2 sockets... that little impact works great when fixing mowers n stuff. Please do that as well.
as far as the 1 in gun goes, and the 3/4in, since i have both, the trick is that you get the initial couple of hammer hits, but thats usually all it takes. I have a 30 gallon 2 stage triple pump compressor that can keep up with my HVLP gun just fine, but even with a 3/4in air line, it cannot feed a 3/4in and a 1in gun more than a few seconds. I get like 4 good hits, and if it hasn't broken the bolt by then, its loose.
I watched several of your videos and I figured now was the time to subscribe and have given thumbs up. Keep up the good work. I feel educated now. . . I was able to break head studs loose on a 4.6 f150 until I needed a wobbly since the gun didn't fit. I bet wobblies loose torque with extra cheese.
The very first adapter test you compared a stubby 3/8inch socket to a deep 1/2inch socket. One is far longer than the other. Maybe you should keep the socket lengths comparable.
Please test torque loss of 3/8dr impact extension bars vs same length of 1/2dr impact extension bars and also if more expensive 3/8dr extension bars have less torque loss than cheaper ones.
It would be interesting if you guys could take 0.01” stainless or brass shim stock (or whatever size would fit) and place it between the anvil and adapter and between the adapter end to socket just to see if tightening the fit makes reliable gains, potentially enough so to justify doing in a situation where that 15-20% loss is needed.
Something we tested yesterday just after making this is low-profile adapters like: amzn.to/3leaKL3
These lessened the huge 3/8" to 1/2" loss down to 10-16%, so it must have to do with the anvil being pushed out and away from the square drive on the socket, which doesnt help with that vibration either (see 2:52, the socket is a blur). Likely for the same (less) vibration reason, we also saw less % loss on weaker guns. For instance a 3/8" M12 stubby and our knock-off makita saw consistently less % loss, but still the same relationship between adapter types as in this episode.
Torque who started TTC is working in product development for Astro Tools, always consider multiple sources when considering a tool!
Torque rods work by actually bending and absorbing the impact... I presume all other adapters are subject to this as well as perhaps longer sockets depending upon the material they made of...
please test torque multipliers
@@angus4202 Okay, but they aint cheap. Give us a bit :P
@@TorqueTestChannel considering the cheapest one ive seen on amazon is like $299 take your time
@Torque Test Channel now do this test again all with air impacts and see if there is a difference in %loss. Or try with electric guns that run at different rpms (high rpm small hammer) vs (low rpm big hammer) with extensions/adapters
I wonder just how much force is lost due to fitment of the adapters. I.e. will a really tight fitting adapter fare measurably better than a loose one?
We've tried 6 brands with no correlation so far, including Snap-On. Edit: Though if you're increasing rather than reducing, these seem to make a difference: amzn.to/3leaKL3
I feel like the tighter it is, the more likely to snap off. Probably loose fit is intentional.
Exactly what I was going to ask.
@@TorqueTestChannel i was trying to remove lugnuts on my tractor with a couple extension and an impact and it wouldn't come off. if i pressed the gun really hard into the extensions and lugnuts it came loose immediately. try that. push pretty hard into all the extensions, as if you were using a screw gun
Probably could matter, any kind of slop in fitment takes up some of the impacting force but also you can only make it so tight since you need to be able to get them on and off easily enough so the difference is probably very small
I just went down a 1.5hr youtube rabbit hole to find out if 3/8 square drive impact wrenches can be adapted to 1/4 hex, to save myself buying a "weaker" 1/4 hex impact driver. After sloshing through so many "cool" and "manly" fellas doing niche reviews, I find this. A truly genuine, no BS, channel devoted to presenting real information via the scientific method. In the first three minutes alone, you distilled far more important information than my entire rabbit hole. Thank you. Instant fan here.
How have you enjoyed your stay here
I went with a 1/2" one instead of 1/4" hex because I might not need the full power when driving regular screws but I absolutely will need it when changing the tires of my car. The max my impact wrench can do is 300Nm so plenty even with a bit of loss.
legit broke out laughing at the performance of the WTF adapter at the end. Thanks for the testing!
HTG , in 40 yrs of wrenching, have never seen an adapter conga line like THAT before...
In industrial settings everything is 1in air hose and chicago fittings. Plant air is usually not anymore than 130 or so psi but flow is never a problem. Some of the bigger guns will use 2 1in lines, 3 men and a crane to hold the weight. Nowadays that type of work is usually done with hydraulic wrenches or super nuts. Great work guys.
I was looking a specs on 1" wrenches and they want somewhere around 50 CFM, compared to something like 5 CFM on 1/2" wrenches.
Man, putting the true cost of 1" air impacts into perspective like that, the battery-powered IR and Milwaukees are a fucking steal.
Not to mention how inefficient air is, your energy costs will be much higher running that massive compressor compared to charging up a couple batteries.
You need an "air receiver tank" hooked up between the tool and the supply at the wall. It'll help alot with the pressure drop problem your having. You can run 3/4 line from the storage tank to the tool and it will be cheaper than redoing all the line.
the half inch line is your air resistor
@@drewlarson65 it can’t hold enough though or transport the air quickly enough.
Need the tank pumping air into a big holding tank filled up then turned on backing up the air that's being used to keep up but enough air to supply the gun, or just ask the company wat they are using for there tests there probably tell u
Super video! I’ve been using my Milwaukee 1/2” high torque to remove lug nuts from trucks and heavy equipment for a couple of years now. I’ve found that using a 1/2” drive socket works much better than 3/4” drive with an adapter. I had assumed that the additional wiggle room in the setup eats up all the beans, but now I know.
Thank you for this video showing the results of using adapters on impact wrenches. This was surprising and quite informative. Now I know why the Earthquake XT 3/8" impact I recently tried was much weaker than advertised. It would not break my lug nuts loose which were torqued to 140 ft-lbs. I was using a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter on it. I found the advertised tightening torque of 160 ft-lbs to be 110 ft-lbs as verified with my Snap-On torque wrench. That's very close to the 27% reduction you demonstrated. Wow! I returned the Earthquake XT 3/8" impact to Harbor Freight and replaced it with a 1/2" Ultra Compact air impact. I have not had a chance to try that one out yet but I will definitely keep in mind the effect of reducers and extensions. I assume these adapters would affect an air impact wrench the same as a cordless impact?
Yes I haven't tested it myself but physics says extending where the turn point is, or having tiny gaps in connectors will reduce torque strength.
I imagine the U-Joints for angles also reduces it quite a bit.
I imagine a 3" reduces it less than 5" and 10" extensions. If you had a swivel/Universal joint socket on the end it could increase the loss by 0.5-2x depending on where it's at? (The nut/bolt end or directly connected to the wrench/ratchet/breaker)
I have no clue how much loss there will be on combinations of different types of varying sizes and drive adapters used with swivel sockets/adapters
I also bought only ½" drive sockets and I'm getting a ½" dr Ryobi One+ HP 18v brushless Impact Wrench.
I'm planning on ordering and paying off Gearwrench 6pt, 15pc Wrench set (metric) after watching this channel show 6 point wrenches beat 12 point and spline for not stripping or slipping on bolts/nuts.
But I have a decent CR-V Impact socket set in metric coming from Amazon between the 3rd-7th all in ½".
If I have to I'll use an adapter but I'd rather buy the sockets or wrenches I don't have in ½"/6pt box end/reversible ratcheting wrench set.
I normally buy wrench & socket sets that have no missing ones.
My Gearwrench on the way is 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 20mm, 21mm, 22mm.
The ratcheting reversible Tollamark wrwnch set is 12pc from 8mm-19mm nothing missing.
My Jeep is fully metric so I'm normally good with metric only.
I honestly don't like SAE because of all the crazy fractions and not knowing if I'm missing a tool so I'll buy a metric replacement bolt&nuts set for suspension from BelMetric: SAE Grade 8/Metric Grade 10.9.
My rear socks are: M12x1.75x70mm bot bolt M12x1.75x80mm top bolt (Hex Flange, Partial Thread, Coarse thread) Nut are M12x1.75 Grade 8/10.9
Sorry for ranting 😅
Thor cares little for adapters...it occasionally eats one when your not looking.
This makes me feel better about my choice to buy all my impacts as 1/2" and use the 3/8" or 3/4" adapters.
Now I can estimate my torque losses better.
This channel has become one of my favorites. Thanks guys!
You can get lots of things done with just 1/2 and 1/4", just have to be mindful of what kinds of power you're laying down because driving an M14 bolt with 1/2" can easily go south
@@lolatmyage You can definitely get a lot done with those two. I have a small astro nano 1/2", an earthquake 1/2", and a skinny electric 1/4" snap-on ratchet. With good swivels for them, there's not much that forces me to grab a ratchet or wrench
There new video on the Milwaukee 3/8 vs 1/2 shows that the 3/8 of ANY brand actually outperforms or matches it's 1/2 counterpart
@@user-sg4jm9oq6ddid this include ridgid? I saw a video comparing their newest 3/8 and 1/2 sub compact and the 1/2 came out on top
For the 3/4 pneumatic impacts you should try running a second 20ish gallon air tank inline just a couple of feet of 1/2" hose with only a tee fitting for the pressure gauge running to the gun
I have a 20 gallon buffer tank fed by my regulated air. My 1” impact is connected to the buffer tank with a 3/4” hose about 10 yards long. Works well even with a very basic compressor, haven’t put a gauge at the impact admittedly.
I am 1000% surprised the 1" to ½" didn't sheer off immediately. Maybe you should get the rest of their adapters too.
I believe this. I have the 3/4” earthquake XT on my service truck, only tool that always takes cutting edge nuts off between my coworkers. I always used a 3/4”-1/2” adapter to fit a 30mm socket on it. Finally bought a 3/4” drive 30mm and got the chance to use it the other day. It took them off so much easier I couldn’t tell if they were properly put on!
I currently work at fedex as a diesel mechanic. I was curious since I run my 3/4 snap on impact. Our lines are run at 140psi and it drops to 100psi. Our shop uses 1 Ingersoll rand compressor and the shop is large. By size it can fit about 24 single axle semi trucks inside the shop. I'm sure there are a lot of other heavy duty mechanics that watch your channel. Would be nice if you could one day test the 3/4in air stuff.
Agreed. I would love to see the 3/4” stuff. maybe even without ideal air pressure to see if they are still worth using if you can’t feed them proper air.
Wow, didn't expect there to be that large of a loss going 3/8 to 1/2. An adapter is by far cheaper, but perhaps this gives more value to having both sizes in the same body/tool (ex. having both 3/8 & 1/2 stubby or mid-torque).
Do you mean from the 27% from 3/8 going up to 1/2. While having both is the right answer a 7% loss doesn't seem terrible if you are trying to break free a smaller bolt
@@clion520 sorry, I corrected my original post. I did mean 3/8 to 1/2.
No, I don't see any issue going 1/2 down to 3/8 other than the fact that adapters snap easily.
Seeing this, it makes more sense why ShopToolReviews welded the adapter to the socket, although this does bring up a scenario that was not taken into account in this test....if you take out the slop by welding it, is there a loss of power?
@@98ChevyK1500Z71 also.. ex. Having both 3/8 and 1/2” guns, as well as have 3/8 and 1/2” sets of metric and SAE impact sockets. Deep... and shallow. 🤔 maybe someday I’ll get there 😂
@@ianloyd6384I got that and even though my wallet is not happy they sure look beautiful together as a real family. 😂
I'm happy because I have the Makita 18v 1/2 inch impact wrench and only occasional use a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter to undo 46mm nuts and I notice little torque loss. Very interesting. I've been waiting for this video. Thankyou!
Hey Nick
So you wouldn't trade your 1/2 in to a 3/4 in?
I also have the Makita 1/2 in with 1000Nm (DTW1002 in Europe) but was always wondering if I made the right choice
@@MattPrimefulL no I wouldn't trade it. I'm happy with it having owned it nearly 2 years. You can also buy 1/2 inch big sockets aswell so no need for an adapter. Most of the sockets I use aren't big anyway. Also It's very rare to come across any nut that the 1/2 inch won't remove which also applies to the 3/4 inch.
Overall I'm glad I bought the 1/2 inch because most of my sockets used are 17mm, 19mm, 24mm and most often are 1/2 inch drives.... the minority of sockets are 3/4 and even the bigger ones nowadays are made for 1/2 drive.
3/4 air would still be interesting. As you stated most people are not getting the advertised torque ratings due requiring such a high static pressure. The video would be a nice way to determine if the 3/4 is worth it over a 1/2 air even at the lower pressure. If the 3/4 air still gets a significant amount more torque, then there still might be a place for it in the tool box.
I’ve got a Cornwell 1/2-3/8ths adapter that’s treated me pretty well. It’s survived my Astro 1894 and my bosses Milwaukee hi-torque for about 4 months now.
Real work scenario I’ve experienced is short sockets seem to break loose really tight bolts better than deep sockets. A lot of times the deep sockets won’t even loosen at all no matter how long you hammer on it. Have you tested this yet?
I could agree with this, also using 12 point sockets might impact. I use my weak ass impact wrenches with any socket I have..
The adapters are still great for breaker bars. Since it is more of a constant force you shouldn’t lose any torque.
100% correct
@@TorqueTestChannel With size adapters and a torq wrench, would the adapters affect the result of the torque wrench? i just bought some for this purpose.
I've massacred four 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapters doing this in 15 minutes just on 19-21mm lug nuts. I use an old USA made Craftsman breaker bar and it doesn't flex while going thru these adapters like butter.
@@raph882 hey mate did you get any answers to Wether it reduces what you should set the torque to?
@@raph882The answer to your question is no. The centerline of the drive end of torque wrench and centerline of bolthead/nut will be the same, so it is not affected. Heck, you can use a whole bunch of extensions, as long as they are in a straight line from fastener to torque wrench, the torque wrench will still apply proper torque.
Nice test. Interesting to see that the step ‘downs’ showed a disproportionate decrease in transmission of power over the step ‘ups’!
I have the Makita DTW1002Z 18V Brushless ½" Impact Wrench (rated at 1,600nm of nut busting capacity) and wanted more grunt, so, as a solution, I went out and bought the Makita TW001GZ 40Vmax XGT Brushless ¾" Impact Wrench (rated at 2,050nm of nut busting capacity) to boot.
With my impact sockets being all ½" drive, I also purchased the ¾" to ½" drive step down adaptor.
Taking into account the 19% loss in power using the step down adaptor (as witnessed in this video) means the 2,050nm becomes 1,660nm gaining virtually nothing for my NZ$729 (skin only) purchase plus 40v battery platform upgrade!
That fact that you put all those adapters on, just show how awesome this channel is. You knew we all would be asking if you didn't :D
Literally what I needed, thanks TTC!
I've been ridiculed several times about using a 2767 milwaukee with 1/2 to 3/4 adapter to a larger 3/4 drive socket taking off semi lugs. good to see some actual numbers. I've also broken 2 of the 1" to 3/4" step down adapters using 1" air impact with 3/4" drive socket. you wouldn't think a 3/4" drive adapter would break but indeed they will!
Thanks for this video. I always wondered just how much it was, knowing there was a big loss in practice in the shop. Anytime something would not loosen, removing the adapters and hitting it with all same size sockets and limiting extensions always does the trick...or snaps it off.
Amazing thank you for the lesson. My eyes have been opened by this as never would have thought of the possibility of this.
The subscribers!! The views!!! Incredible!! Was able to find out I subscribed over a year ago!!! You guys are the best....
WOULD REALLY LIKE AN UPDATE ON HOW YOUR NEW JOB IS GOING!!!
You guys have the most fun out of all the tool testing channels. Thanks for another informative video, see you on the next one!
I use the 1/4 in Dewalt driver for so many fasteners on autos. Mostly on interior and accessory fasteners. I also understand it capabilities and switch to 1/2 in impact when necessary.
So In our shop with a regulator we run our compressor at 175-180 piped 120ft with 3/4" black gas pipe and roughly 400ft total for the 3/4" loop left right and center runs. At the regulator we can very easily hit 90psi dynamic pressure. The compressor is an 80 gallon Devilbiss compressor twin stage @15hp on split phase 240v phase2/3 motor rated at 25hp 3ph. The DeVilbiss 80gal tank is dated 1945 and has max working psi of 230. The First stage appears to be a 1970 twin cyl dual displacement vertical pump and second stage is a 1975 V-twin type single displacement pump. Its clearly custom or Frankensteined together to make the ultimate shop compressor. This configuration has been in operation since 1978. The max dynamic pressure we can hit at the regulator is 144 psi for about 8 minutes, 120psi for about 12.5 minutes and 90psi for about 15 minutes coming down to about 77psi continuous dynamic out of the system with an empty or equalized tank. We run 1/2" rubber airline to the tool.
Dudes I love this channel not just for the info but the commentary is hilarious.
Milwaukee 3/8 user here...beast of a gun. Crazy to see the loss from the 3/8 to 1/2. Only time I use that is for lug nuts of the domestic vehicle variety, no heavy duty stuff, so plenty of power for that even with an adapter. Just gives me an excuse to buy more tools if ever I need more power.
Well, lol, I am for one am thankful for these tests. I am also thankful for the mindfulness to try instead of break. I broke the head off of a 1/2 breaker bar when not realizing that my axle socket had seized to my hub face, had begun to employ "extreme" measures. After beating the "correct" size socket off the nut, I tried the same impact gun one socket size up, and it ripped the nut off no problem. Lesson was that enough space is needed both around and in front of a socket to move the nut. :)
Need to see this again, especially the WTFBBQ, with the high speed camera. I love the very out of character break in composure at the end 😂
I no longer feel bad that I can't ram enough air into my 3/4" impact! I was starting to think I'd just screwed up when I rebuilt it.
When we first saw it, we thought we did something wrong. There's no way we and everyone with similar shop air can be only driving 3/4" impacts at 80-90% beans, right?
@@TorqueTestChannel Can i just point out that you said you removed the wall regulator but you have a regulator connected straight to the tool, in my experience regulators always reduce flow so try putting a tee piece on the tool with a pressure gauge on it.
@@dazthedonrambo 40CFM max flow and 1/2" to 3/8" NPT fittings, but fair enough i see your point.
@@dazthedonrambo exactly what I was thinking.
In industrial settings everything is 1in air hose and chicago fittings. Plant air is usually not anymore than 130 or so psi but flow is never a problem. Some of the bigger guns will use 2 1in lines, 3 men and a crane to hold the weight. Nowadays that type of work is usually done with hydraulic wrenches or super nuts. great work guys.
SUPER curious about the low profile adapters. Basically a cover that just slides over a 3/8 to make it a 1/2, they add little to no extra length, maybe this would get rid of some losses.
I recently bought a set of lo pro adapters from Ares (maybe Titan, I forget) because I worry about damage to the anvil when using the standard ones. Haven't used them yet but they fit beautifully. Amazon has a few offerings
I thought the same thing.
It's the sloppy fit that causes loss of energy. The tighter the fit, the less the loss.
I believe the slack between adaptors is cushioning the impact. To test this I would like to see them weld the adaptors to the socket. It would have to be a good weld and insure everything is almost perfectly lined up. This is because i also believe that angles cushion as well.
If I am right, it will either greatly minimize or completely eliminate the loss.
I haven't read comments from others, so if I have stepped on someone else's idea, I apologize.
When looking to see where the air pressure is dropping running large guns, i would be looking for the smallest diameter the air has to pass through between the air tank and the gun as that would be the weak link in the chain.
The obvious thing i would change is that l when testing the air pressure i would fit a t-piece with air in-pressure gauge-air out so the air to the gun can flow as freely as possible. This would mean that you would still be getting the true line pressure rather than all the air going to the gun having to flow though the pressure regulator first.
Smallest pinch would be a 4 foot 3/4" cast iron pipe (coming from 1") before it hits the 1/2" air hose that's threaded directly into the tool.
@@TorqueTestChannel would a 1’ to 1/2” Y adaptor leading into two 1/2” hoses, and then another Y adaptor directly into the air gun work? Bypassing the 3/4” pipe?
13:34 … well at least we found a reliable torque limiter!
You caught me off guard with the 1/2" to 3/8" adapters not lasting. I bought two matco adapters of that type almost 10 years ago and use them fairly often and never had one break. They utilize a totally different style than comparing brands featuring a keyed-removable shank that I think helps them apply the pressure points elsewhere and not at the cone tip. Anyhow, awesome video. I loved seeing this as I use adapters daily
Part number please!
@@TorqueTestChannelI'm not at work or else I'd look at mine personally and give it to you, but from what I found online its part# cp1612rbd
That's why i chose the 1/2" version of the Milwakee M12 impact gun
I *just* ran into this problem, not having the exact right tool, last week! I was ashamed! I needed to take the wheel off my motorcycle, but didn't have a socket that large in 3/8". Instead I just got my heckin chonker 1/2" socket set and the Ridgid hi torque. Massive overkill. This also let me discover the stock toolkit on the Honda ATAS doesn't have any tools to remove wheels!
you need tire spoons that have the proper hex on the other end.
@@danedwards1227 ugh maybe. I have tire spoons that are super boss at being tire spoons, tho.
Great video. Wod love to see losses in deep vs standard socket, square extensions, wobble extensions, joint adapters, and swivel sockets.
Thanks! That totally explains why I won't buy a 1/2 to 3/8" adapter, vs a 3/8's impact wrench. As always your videos are very entertaining.
I have a Makita XWT15Z that I run a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter all day long. yeah the adapter breaks eventually, maybe every few weeks haven't actually measure the time, but it does work. Now that I know I'm only loosing 7% or so, I don't think that is bad. the Makita XWT16Z the 3/8 version is rated 20 fl-lb lower on the max torque, and 50 ft-lb lower on nut busting, so at 7% it's a wash. But with the 1/2 i'm more versatile.
we run a 170 all the time in our shop it would be nice to see how much we are really running at the gun when running
I’m a tool idiot. Horribly!
If I use an adapter set. But extension is 6” or 12”, how is torque affected? If I need to remove a stubborn bolt. Which shall I use!
Thx
Use the shortest extension possible it maximize your input and reduce twisting of the extension resulting in more torque applied.
I Mainly use the adapters, when I'm just loosening those 8mm bolts on the fender liners. No force needed, just much quicker to use the one powertool I have around. Putting them back in I go extremely careful so that I wait for a single click. Thats my personal torque spec on those screws.
I can really feel it on the small M12 using extensions. Great video guys!
Hello again Torque Test Channel
Thank you for another Great Video. I would have thought Otherwise. But seeing it in action. Wow, what a difference. And this happens no matter how you set it up? Amazing, Again thank you
Could you run a test of 3/4 vs 1/2 with your current set-up and then another test set up as an industrial setting?
Can't wait to see losses from hex adapters measured, like in your M18 Frankenstein episode, where the driver with an anvil swapped into it spanked hard. Kudos to Mancaver
so i know you've done this, battery size, and all hose stuff for air guns. but what about power loss with low battery? at what level should you stop using and charge it.
th-cam.com/video/LRRPXcx4pHg/w-d-xo.html
@@TorqueTestChannel :D
When I bought my 3/8 I intended to use it with very light duty 1/2 work sometimes. They make a 1/2 version of the same tool but having may other 1/2 that suit the bill, and with most of the 3/8 outperforming the 1/2 of the same versions around here I got a set of step up adapters. I don't know that it makes any difference but the ones I got sit directly atop the anvil making it less of an extension and more of an adapter. Fitment is probably more important than length but it would be nice to know. It works out to be only 1/8 or so longer than the original anvil. They are called low profile adapters.
Can you do a video on fitting size on different air hoses? Curious if running a smaller fitting at the end of a big hose will limit power on impact guns.
I think there is a video of that and I'm pretty sure there was a torque loss with the smaller fittings.
There would have to be, the restrictor would have a faster flow rate but lower pressure so there a bottleneck b
Now we need a culmination Science episode. We need a dyno run of all the different extensions you can put on an impact. I'm talking extension into u-joint into reducer/adapter. BECAUSE SCIENCE!!!
I wrap some tape around to keep the adapter and drivebit from falling off the head and rolling out of reach, also just in case something shatters the parts won't be flying as fast.
📝 use multiple adapters instead of torque sticks
man it's crazy how many views you guys get. keep up the great work!
Wtfbbq! Love it guys! I've never broken an adapter but mine are S&K from the '70's and I never use them with impact anything only hand tools. I mainly use the 3/4" to 1/2" reducer for axle nut bell sockets on the Dana 70/80 full floating rears.
I had to use my 1/2" m12 stubby with a 1/2 to 3/4 AND a 3/4 to 1" adapter to go onto this giant custom socket for some robotics work. It didn't need high torque, but was just a massive size. I found that due to the slop between the adapters the majority of power was being lost. After running it several times I noticed the adapters were very hot. Not an ideal setup for impacts, but for linear force it would be fine
why the fuck did algorithm make me stumble across u in the middle of the week, I'm already an hour past my bedtime and I still wanna keep going.
Well, at least I know what I'll do the rest of the week.
Where do I find the Boot/Cover on the milwaukee at 1:30 ish?
Logical. There's always a certain amount of Play Between all adapters and sockets and of course Fasteners and as you multiply the things between the gun and the Fastener you're multiplying the play and therefore the loss. I would think this also has to do with continual wear on sockets ,extensions , adapters and fasteners as well. Good content. Thank you
HF has a new brushless Bauer impact. Think we will get to see that one (before I just go buy it lol)
Couldn’t tell ya the numbers but at my work we have a duel 2 stage air compressors plumed together on 1/2inch line. With the 3/4 and 1 gun we can work about 3 or 4 minutes before we have to stop and let the air build back up. M24 sized bolts that are tightening to like 600ish pounds
I didn't notice if you've done torque losses with adapters, extensions and actual torque wrenches, but that is for sure something many people need to see and understand 👍
Love that last one. Look up sketchy in the dictionary and it has a picture of that setup.
Always wondered this- my IRC9000 and my PT850 will always break a Honda crank bolt more easily when I have a 1/2F/3/4M adapter and a 3/4” drive 19mm snap-on deep socket on it
Maybe you could do a test comparing losses to the tightness of fit. An adapter which is loose rotationally could absorb some of the impact energy. An adapter which drops more could perhaps cause the tool to wobble more. That would be an interesting test. Measure the maximum rotation or drop angle and the pressure applied at the maximum angle. Perhaps tape an accelerometer to the tool too.
I never would've thought the losses would be anywhere near as dramatic. "Hey babe, turns out I need two more impact guns even though the one I have is fine."
Once again, absolutely brilliant, fun, and educational. Please keep these videos coming!
These are so scientifically satisfying to watch. I love this channel!
It would be interesting to see if there is a loss when using an adapter on a manual breaker bar.
I've given up on 1/2" breaker bars and use 3/4" breaker bar with 3/4" to 1/2" adapter.....I haven't broken or bent a breaker bar since this switch.
For the Engagement, it’s always a good video from this channel
This is why I always just go with the 1/2" and adapt down if needed. The bigger fasteners need that extra torque sometimes. Especially in the north
This was very helpful combined with your 3/8” vs 1/2” anvil comparison. I recently bought my first impact driver and got 3/8” because that’s what most of my sockets are. Two takeaways: 1) overall I made the right choice matching anvil to available sockets, but 2) I probably should replace my 1/2” deep sockets with 3/8” to fit the tool.
Any recommendations on big, deep sockets available in 3/8” drive? For example, 17mm, 18mm, and 19mm.
My advice is pick a brand with a lifetime warranty that doesn't make you pay for a replacement (snap on). Mastercraft/Harbor freight/ Princess auto
Get Tekton
Get Tekton
It would be interesting to drill and tap an adapter for a single set screw to force it in the removal direction relative to the anvil where most power is needed for automotive use. That would eliminate the slop since the gun anvil would be fully CCW inside the adapter.
I used a vintage Husky USA 27203 1/2 to 3/8 reducer on my gen 2 Milwaukee mid torque impact at full power to remove a stuck Allen bolt. Nothing broke. Guess my reducer is a lucky one
The adapters put together at the end of the video is the equivalent of putting extensions together to reach transmission bell housing bolts.
But have you ofund a gun and socket combination that can dislodge a honda crank pulley bolt?
I always use larger line than 1/2 inch for the 3/4 and 1 inch tools But since I got my Makita 1/2 inch 18V impact I rarely use those larger air tools any more.
The only thing I learned is that you guys are really funny. From years of experience, I knew that to reduce or increase size was power reduction. I also knew that Mac had the strongest 1/2 impact although I was mostly a snap-On kid of guy. Mac was mostly a "come off" or "brake off" tool either way was a fast option. Snap-On sockets were pretty much bullet proof. Thanks again.
I've had plenty of snap on sockets fail chrome and impact. I've had bolts that a snap on socket would round but if i used a craftsman USA sockets came off no problem. I've beaten the hell out of cheap 10mm 3/8 husky chrome sockets using an IR2235 and though they wallow out I've yet to have one crack so far. IMO the only socket that snap on makes that is some what superior are their impact swivel sockets, and I've cracked/worn out four of those within two years. Their normal sockets are over priced no better than what I can buy at the box store for 5 bucks a socket.
Excellent video
Well thank you for answering my question. I was stuck between buying the 1/2 or 3/8 milwaukee mid torque. 1/2 it is!
I have a chrome duralast 1/2 to 3/8 adapter that seems to refuse to die. First time I used it, in 2014, attempted to rip lug nuts off a car with a breaker bar. About 6 feet from the lug nut with about 260 lbs bouncing on it. Didn't get the lug nut but I still use it to this day.
So I'm wondering if the chrome adapters (while not "right") on an impact work better than the impact adapter.
Forgive me if this has already been tested or discussed on your channel, but could you test if there are any effects in loosening conical seat lug nuts? I’ve experienced, my buddy as well, Milwaukee stubbies struggling to remove conical lug nuts, on aluminum rims, tightened at 150 ft-lbs. Thanks!
Adding extensions cause torque loss, but do deep well sockets loose torque a slight percentage more then short well sockets?
How does the anvil on the Milwaukee not break? I have seen ratchet testing with 3/8" ratchets and they break at like 200-300ft lbs (the higher end ones being the ones without the detent pin/quick release since that makes the anvil stronger) but this Milwaukee it putting out almost 500 ft lbs? How on a 3/8"? How does the anvil not sheer off?
Intermittent blows is a wonder of physics over linear torque
Do you think there is cfm loss in the tight radius 90 degree rigid pipe fittings? Don’t know much about pressure or air tools though.
How much torque do I lose when I use my 1/4 milwaukee impact for 1/4, 3/8,1/2 sockets... that little impact works great when fixing mowers n stuff. Please do that as well.
as far as the 1 in gun goes, and the 3/4in, since i have both, the trick is that you get the initial couple of hammer hits, but thats usually all it takes. I have a 30 gallon 2 stage triple pump compressor that can keep up with my HVLP gun just fine, but even with a 3/4in air line, it cannot feed a 3/4in and a 1in gun more than a few seconds. I get like 4 good hits, and if it hasn't broken the bolt by then, its loose.
I watched several of your videos and I figured now was the time to subscribe and have given thumbs up. Keep up the good work. I feel educated now. . .
I was able to break head studs loose on a 4.6 f150 until I needed a wobbly since the gun didn't fit. I bet wobblies loose torque with extra cheese.
Hey thanks! Yes we have a vid on wobbly adapters. Lots of beans lost
What if you are using a manual 3/8 torque wrench with a 1/2 adaptor on say a rifle barrel set to a certain torque, would that be achieved ?
The very first adapter test you compared a stubby 3/8inch socket to a deep 1/2inch socket. One is far longer than the other. Maybe you should keep the socket lengths comparable.
Is there a way to measure torque straight from the drive bit, instead of transferring torque through a socket?
The last run had me crying!
Please test torque loss of 3/8dr impact extension bars vs same length of 1/2dr impact extension bars and also if more expensive 3/8dr extension bars have less torque loss than cheaper ones.
It would be interesting if you guys could take 0.01” stainless or brass shim stock (or whatever size would fit) and place it between the anvil and adapter and between the adapter end to socket just to see if tightening the fit makes reliable gains, potentially enough so to justify doing in a situation where that 15-20% loss is needed.
have you ever heard of a brand called Erbauer? was wondering if you could test their impacts one day? love what you do!