50Nm would spin the earth the opposite way. 20Nm would brake this whole contraption in to several peaces. 10Nm is similar to a real car, and is where you start to use metal parts for a build.
The parts are in the video, while a parts list could be nice(Maybe in the Gdocks folder as a pdf) you can see all the components que uses. The buttons and limit swiches are interchangeable.
Incredible. Can you build a direct drive too? Even more incredible that you decided to make this monster on the wood. [edit] I saw your other video on DIY direct drive. Oh my God you did it!
is this a lot better than a thrustmaster t300? i have a t300 and i was thinking of building this one, but is it worth it or should i stick with my t300? thanks a lot
Look at my latest video where I built a sim racing wheel from a hoverboard motor, you should be able to build it for around 200€, and you get a direct drive wheel base with 15nm of torque and amazing build quality. That would be much better than the thrustmaster t300 since it pumps out peaks of 1500w of power, and has a nominal power of 350w. Compared to the 25w of your wheel. It also is direct drive which is definitely a plus.
Ciao, complimenti per il progetto Puoi mettere un link del PCB dei pulsanti gentilmente? E quali pulsanti hai usato? Io ne ho provati diversi ma non funzionano, alla fine ho optato per i micro switch. Grazie in anticipo
This is unreal! Absolutey amazing work. When compared to high end belt driven wheels, how detailed is the feedback to the wheel? I'd assume manufacturers tune them to work specifically for each game, with each gme giving different detail in feedback related to the physics, can these things be implemented within your logic board?
Or could y ou just steal a pcb from another wheel or something? Really interested to know how you get your DIY set up to be recognised as a wheel, seems far too easy watching your video :)
@@Invin_cibles I'll make another vid explaining the firmware and setup inside the PC, it's fairly straightforward, but doesn't allow for backlash tuning or anything similar
Hey so what if someone happned to fry their 23nm DD wheel USB side (as in it turns on, centers and has resistance but wont detect, could i use the parts to make my own? Just use the motor, housing and disconnect it has already and just change the internals? I am deeply hoping i can salvage this thing, i think i have a stepper motor and arduino here i can use, any guidance would be helpful!!!
Brother i will be using the padel you showed in your video but i dont want to use the motor for steering as it is our of my budget range, is there any possible connection without the motor? And one more question, How do i make it recognise as racing wheel to play ganes like forza horizon as it doesn't show in game ? Help me out brother 🥺
Bro without motor it's really hard to make this but I have a dead cheap option for you like you can you pc remote and use your phone tilt as steering and you can make a diy steering wheel for your phone and use it but there will be no ffb and no pedals gotta touch the phone for acceleration ectt so yea
if im using 24v 250watts 14A ebike motor for ffb. can i use ? 24v 360watts 15A powersupply? AND is IT good or something bad happen like high temp or heat
Nice work! How are the connections made from the button board to the Arduino/computer? Are they wireless? If not, how do you prevent the cables from twisting?
Hello is the 2bts 7960 are needed or juste on will work? And can I make it without the pedals so I don't have to buy the PCB way pcb because I already have pedals? Thanks
Just one will work with a 250w motor, a 350w motor will blow it up instantly, I learned the hard way blowing 4 of them up because I didn't understand what was happening
Hello, amazing work btw. What if i use 250 watt 24 volt and connected it to 2 bts7960 in paralel? Is it will still work? Because i already tried using only 1 bts7960 and i think it got toast and the motor wont move or rotate @@DAZprojects
50Nm? Really? My VRS wheelbase, which has an industrial Mige 130 servomotor and is 3 times the size of this little motor provides only 20NM. A Simucube 2, which costs over 3000 Euros can only generate 35Nm and will brake your thumbs if you're not careful or experienced. How did you measure 50NM and how is it that the torque doesn't rip the wood and your 3d printed parts to pieces? Don't get me wrong, I think that what you did is creative and cool, but there is no way that this is generating 50Nm even with the gearbox in any type of useful way. Only looking at you driving, I can see that you're nowhere near 15Nm (30% of your gain) My wheelbase is bolted with M8 Steel bolts to a 40/120mm aluminum rig. When I run it at 15Nm the vibration travels throughout the whole house. I had to mount the rig on 5cm damping rubber to prevent that from happening and still can't get it completely dampened. The fact that you run it at 15Nm and can drive a Formula 1 car and holding on to hard 3D printed plastic grips without any gloves,....and on top of that bolted to a wooden desk? It would tear your skin and shake the whole desk. I think that there is something wrong with your calculations.
I calculated 50nm from the stall torque of the motor I used, it maxes out at 5nm of stall torque, running that through the 10 to 1 gearbox gives a max stall torque of 50nm. max torque (not stall torque) is rated at 1.8nm and gives 18nm at the wheel. I don't know if torque ratings on aftermarket wheels are stall or max torque, maybe help me with that if you know more on this topic, thanks 👍
@@DAZprojects If this is the 350W MY1060 motor its rated at 1.22Nm with a max/peak torque of 1.46Nm. Peak torque is the value all manufacturers refer to when they show how strong their wheelbase is. I did not find anything about the stall torque rating on the MY1060 motor and would not know how this value would be relevant to measure the effective torque on a wheelbase. If you're running your wheel at 30% of the peak torque value with the gearbox , you're running it at 4.36Nm, which would make much more sense, just looking at how it's constructed (in terms of durability) how it behaves, how you're holding on to it when you're driving and how it affects the table it's mounted to. Then there is also the question of FFB detail and how responsive the wheel is. How fast does it deliver the torque and how fast can it change direction etc. Just out of interest: Does the motor get very hot?
@@DAZprojects If you wan't to know what it is like to run a wheelbase just over 20Nm, watch this video of Jimmy Broadbent driving his wheel at higher FFB with the disclaimer to not try this at home. th-cam.com/video/D1gGo8QheDU/w-d-xo.html
@@mementomori4972 thanks for pointing this out, keep in mind that I'm running global gain at 30% and car gain (in this case on the gr3 RS) at 40% which corresponds at a total gain of 12% 12% of 50nm is exactly 6nm which is close to the 4.36 you suggested Keep in mind that the MY1060 motor I have peaks at 85amps, with 2000w of peak power consumption for very short periods of time, that's why I kept burning bts7960 wired up individually, and that's also where the 5,4nm of stall torque comes from. You can also find this rating in the specs section in this page: robu.in/product/my1016-350w-dc-motor/ As you can see the stall torque is rated at 55.1 kg/cm which equals to 5.4nm, run that through the gearbox and you get a stall torque of 54 nm
@@DAZprojects Yeah, but the peak torque of your motor is 1.46Nm, not 1.8Nm and (as I already explained) the stall torque value you came up with (from I don't know where), is completely irrelevant. If I now calculate with 30% global gain and 40% ingame (don't know why you do that btw.) I get 2.16Nm, which would make even more sense.
Amazing project but soon all the plastic and plywood moving parts will brake or come loose. A metal structure will last far longer but it will also come in a much higher price.
I think it's not comparable to a direct drive wheel, but the backlash is very low, latency is non existent. It probably would have been better with some belts instead of the gearbox, but still it's better than any gear driven entry level wheel
@@DAZprojects If you prefer belt drive, there should be some reason, but I believe this is a better idea because the forces from hand doesn't directly transfer to the motor and the motor might live longer.... Unfortunately the same torque from a single simple belt drive is hardly an option, however, a compound belt drive could be designed, and with your talent that will be a breeze... Waiting to witness that.... However man, I loved your pedals.... ♥️♥️♥️♥️
Read the previous comments, 50nm is the stall torque so it's not a wrong statement, it's just incomplete. Us as TH-camr need to attract the attention in some way or the algorithm will not show our videos. I'm now working on a hoverboard based DD steering wheel and I'll be more scientific in that video since it's something I think more people will replicate being cheaper and overall better in any way then this one. Thanks for pointing that out 👍
@@DAZprojects Listen, my neighbors cousins ex-roommates' hamster belonged to a physics teacher in its past life... So I can tell you there's no way it's 50nm of force. My lawnmower is 45nm and It would rip that table to shreds. I see you're providing factual information and specifications that make a lot of sense but this means nothing to me and the rest of the commenters. Nice work
400for that? mmmmm. may as well get the cammus c5 with the pedals included its cheaper and its a dd and you get pedals too. or if you want more torque use a hub motor from ebike or hooverboard. the smallest hub motors of ebikes can do as much as 50nm so the smaller the better. and hub motor is one of the best feeling dd motors out there.
I know, I was thinking of using a hub motor but I had no idea about the software, if you know more on how to use them let me know, I would love to try building a better one
Thats not 50nm in translation to the power you get. It may be rated that way but the numbers we use in wheelbases isn't based on just the motor but the power it can produce when together and pushing to your hands. This isnt 50nm. Sry 50nm stall torque is not how you measure wheelbase torque. This is a 5nm wheelbase maybe 10nm tops. Doesnt seem like its moving much more then 5nm wheelbases do. Something is off with your testing. The qay thw wheel was moving with your settings looked like 2 to 3nm on my wheelbase I use set very very low. It looked pretty weak in action. And if you have to use 40% to not clip its def not close to 50nm if its clming out to 5 or 6nm at 40%. Just saying.
@thomaslocke1503 this is not 50nm. Its not actually giving him that. He's using it at 40%! That would be over 20nm. Do you see a 20nm wheelbase react this slowly and easily? No I own a 23nm wheelbase, 15nm and 27nm. My 15nm wheelbase gives way more fight then this even set to 10nm. He also explained it's not 50nm static he measured 10nm in other ways which this makes way more sense. That looks like a 10nm wheelbase being used at 4 to 5nm. Its all about how the forces are measured. I've also never seen a 50nm motor this small before. 50nm is absolutely insane. Our biggest in the industry for sim racing is 35nm at the moment. And believe me that at 40% is pretty wild. Same goes for vnm 32nm wheelbase. Or the simucube ultimate. Look at the small belt holding it an moving. Yeah 50nm? Heck no that small belt wouldn't hold or be able to move or maintain torque at that level.
@@reviewforthetube6485 Nm are always specified the same and it means 1N at one meter lever arm. No matter how and where you measure it! You didn't even understand that the little belt only transmits the angle of rotation to the sensor 😜
50Nm would spin the earth the opposite way.
20Nm would brake this whole contraption in to several peaces.
10Nm is similar to a real car, and is where you start to use metal parts for a build.
10Nm is for a car with no power steering and BIG tires. My road car feels like probably 2-3 N.m.
A sport car grip is something else. F1 grip is insane and G forces are out of our knowledge.
Congrats on 1k likes
What were all the parts used in this video because they were not put down in the description. 😅
The parts are in the video, while a parts list could be nice(Maybe in the Gdocks folder as a pdf) you can see all the components que uses. The buttons and limit swiches are interchangeable.
Impressive work mate
Brother can you make a video of sll the conections of the steering wheel snd the motor, how is conect an the configuration of the buttons
Incredible. Can you build a direct drive too? Even more incredible that you decided to make this monster on the wood. [edit] I saw your other video on DIY direct drive. Oh my God you did it!
Can you please tell which motor and encoder you used?
As can i see, i have the same motor and maybe encoder. It's my1016 motor and omron style encoder (e6b2-cwz6c)
What are the specifications of the motor
Do you also have the Arduino code for this project? tried esp32 before but like simplicity of arduino's 🙂
I:LL share every tech detail in my next video
bravissimo,attendo con ansia il video del coding(se poi ce lo lasci linkato in descrizione mi faresti un bel piacere)
Certamente, grazie per l'apprezzamento
does it have any problem does it have enough tourq when using planatory gearbox ?
More than enough torque, buddy.
@@rexycontemplates ❤️🩹
is there a way to have the file for the buttons on the wheel?
Does this motor not require cooling ? Also the BTS7960 ? I heard those get hot
Any suggestions on print settings for the f1 wheel pdf
is this a lot better than a thrustmaster t300? i have a t300 and i was thinking of building this one, but is it worth it or should i stick with my t300? thanks a lot
Look at my latest video where I built a sim racing wheel from a hoverboard motor, you should be able to build it for around 200€, and you get a direct drive wheel base with 15nm of torque and amazing build quality. That would be much better than the thrustmaster t300 since it pumps out peaks of 1500w of power, and has a nominal power of 350w. Compared to the 25w of your wheel. It also is direct drive which is definitely a plus.
Thank you so much for the quick reply and info! And thank you for your videos! Godspeed!
Ciao, complimenti per il progetto
Puoi mettere un link del PCB dei pulsanti gentilmente?
E quali pulsanti hai usato?
Io ne ho provati diversi ma non funzionano, alla fine ho optato per i micro switch.
Grazie in anticipo
This is unreal! Absolutey amazing work. When compared to high end belt driven wheels, how detailed is the feedback to the wheel? I'd assume manufacturers tune them to work specifically for each game, with each gme giving different detail in feedback related to the physics, can these things be implemented within your logic board?
Or could y ou just steal a pcb from another wheel or something? Really interested to know how you get your DIY set up to be recognised as a wheel, seems far too easy watching your video :)
@@Invin_cibles I'll make another vid explaining the firmware and setup inside the PC, it's fairly straightforward, but doesn't allow for backlash tuning or anything similar
Hey so what if someone happned to fry their 23nm DD wheel USB side (as in it turns on, centers and has resistance but wont detect, could i use the parts to make my own? Just use the motor, housing and disconnect it has already and just change the internals? I am deeply hoping i can salvage this thing, i think i have a stepper motor and arduino here i can use, any guidance would be helpful!!!
You might check the "servo direct drive wheel" videos, because the motor is wired by multiple wires, not just black and red.
@@rexycontemplatesthe motor was connected with 3 wires
How big is the formula one ring you have in total?
Hi does it work with esp32 rather than Arduino Leonardo
Brother i will be using the padel you showed in your video but i dont want to use the motor for steering as it is our of my budget range, is there any possible connection without the motor?
And one more question,
How do i make it recognise as racing wheel to play ganes like forza horizon as it doesn't show in game ?
Help me out brother 🥺
Bro without motor it's really hard to make this but I have a dead cheap option for you like you can you pc remote and use your phone tilt as steering and you can make a diy steering wheel for your phone and use it but there will be no ffb and no pedals gotta touch the phone for acceleration ectt so yea
What is much better should I use a geared ratio with a shaft connected to a dc motor or shaft directly connected to the motor?
If you're using a motor like this you will not get enough torque out of the motor without a gearbox
if im using 24v 250watts 14A ebike motor for ffb. can i use ? 24v 360watts 15A powersupply? AND is IT good or something bad happen like high temp or heat
Nice work! How are the connections made from the button board to the Arduino/computer? Are they wireless? If not, how do you prevent the cables from twisting?
It's controlled by EMC software developed by "Ebolzmagy". Just plug the usb from the Arduino to PC and done.
The board he used behind the wheel is called a dual game controller board or diy arcade controller board
Hey brother can you tell me the name of the pcb part wich use to connect swiches in F1 type steering, and also how it conneting to the Arduino plzz❤
That's a USB joystick board
@@DAZprojects thanks brother
@@DAZprojects bro can u give me your e mali please 😘
@@pesandukithmal3423 that's in the description of my channel
Is possibly with arduino mega 2650?
Hello is the 2bts 7960 are needed or juste on will work? And can I make it without the pedals so I don't have to buy the PCB way pcb because I already have pedals? Thanks
Just one will work with a 250w motor, a 350w motor will blow it up instantly, I learned the hard way blowing 4 of them up because I didn't understand what was happening
Hello, amazing work btw. What if i use 250 watt 24 volt and connected it to 2 bts7960 in paralel? Is it will still work?
Because i already tried using only 1 bts7960 and i think it got toast and the motor wont move or rotate @@DAZprojects
@@DAZprojectsIt was working at first, then when i tried to check the ffb using wheelcheck app. The motor doesnt move or rotate.
@@bayukrisnanda5529 bro i have the same issue as you can you tell me more about the 2 bts in parallel did it work or...
can u play f1 24 with thiz?
using belts and pulleys is better ??
That would remove backlash, but it will increase complexity, precision needed and size
thanks@@DAZprojects
This is just amazing, i wish i can do this kind of stuff
50Nm? Really? My VRS wheelbase, which has an industrial Mige 130 servomotor and is 3 times the size of this little motor provides only 20NM. A Simucube 2, which costs over 3000 Euros can only generate 35Nm and will brake your thumbs if you're not careful or experienced. How did you measure 50NM and how is it that the torque doesn't rip the wood and your 3d printed parts to pieces? Don't get me wrong, I think that what you did is creative and cool, but there is no way that this is generating 50Nm even with the gearbox in any type of useful way. Only looking at you driving, I can see that you're nowhere near 15Nm (30% of your gain) My wheelbase is bolted with M8 Steel bolts to a 40/120mm aluminum rig. When I run it at 15Nm the vibration travels throughout the whole house. I had to mount the rig on 5cm damping rubber to prevent that from happening and still can't get it completely dampened. The fact that you run it at 15Nm and can drive a Formula 1 car and holding on to hard 3D printed plastic grips without any gloves,....and on top of that bolted to a wooden desk? It would tear your skin and shake the whole desk. I think that there is something wrong with your calculations.
I calculated 50nm from the stall torque of the motor I used, it maxes out at 5nm of stall torque, running that through the 10 to 1 gearbox gives a max stall torque of 50nm. max torque (not stall torque) is rated at 1.8nm and gives 18nm at the wheel. I don't know if torque ratings on aftermarket wheels are stall or max torque, maybe help me with that if you know more on this topic, thanks 👍
@@DAZprojects If this is the 350W MY1060 motor its rated at 1.22Nm with a max/peak torque of 1.46Nm. Peak torque is the value all manufacturers refer to when they show how strong their wheelbase is. I did not find anything about the stall torque rating on the MY1060 motor and would not know how this value would be relevant to measure the effective torque on a wheelbase. If you're running your wheel at 30% of the peak torque value with the gearbox , you're running it at 4.36Nm, which would make much more sense, just looking at how it's constructed (in terms of durability) how it behaves, how you're holding on to it when you're driving and how it affects the table it's mounted to. Then there is also the question of FFB detail and how responsive the wheel is. How fast does it deliver the torque and how fast can it change direction etc. Just out of interest: Does the motor get very hot?
@@DAZprojects If you wan't to know what it is like to run a wheelbase just over 20Nm, watch this video of Jimmy Broadbent driving his wheel at higher FFB with the disclaimer to not try this at home. th-cam.com/video/D1gGo8QheDU/w-d-xo.html
@@mementomori4972 thanks for pointing this out, keep in mind that I'm running global gain at 30% and car gain (in this case on the gr3 RS) at 40% which corresponds at a total gain of 12%
12% of 50nm is exactly 6nm which is close to the 4.36 you suggested
Keep in mind that the MY1060 motor I have peaks at 85amps, with 2000w of peak power consumption for very short periods of time, that's why I kept burning bts7960 wired up individually, and that's also where the 5,4nm of stall torque comes from. You can also find this rating in the specs section in this page: robu.in/product/my1016-350w-dc-motor/
As you can see the stall torque is rated at 55.1 kg/cm which equals to 5.4nm, run that through the gearbox and you get a stall torque of 54 nm
@@DAZprojects Yeah, but the peak torque of your motor is 1.46Nm, not 1.8Nm and (as I already explained) the stall torque value you came up with (from I don't know where), is completely irrelevant. If I now calculate with 30% global gain and 40% ingame (don't know why you do that btw.) I get 2.16Nm, which would make even more sense.
Sir please send us the blueprint of parts I do not have Lazer CNC but I have router cnc
They're in the description
Great project. Does it have to be a Leonardo, or can I use an Uno?
you wont get ffb if you use uno, minimum for ffb IS leonardo
Is the circuit diagram for the arduino mini cnc available
No, I lost the files
I'm planning to make my own ffb wheel can i build without planetary gearbox?
Yes you can but it will be too weak (1) nm
What motor is this?
My1016 motor
what was the total cost?
About 400$
oh thats pretty cool
@@DAZprojects
hypothetically, if a normal dd has the power to rip your arm off, wouldnt this take you with it?
Yes, but I limited the power quite a bit
GENIUSSSSSSSS
Amazing project but soon all the plastic and plywood moving parts will brake or come loose.
A metal structure will last far longer but it will also come in a much higher price.
So why I spend $1,200 with fanatec
50 NM or whatever, its way compact and lovely looking, with your pedals. How is the responsiveness?
I think it's not comparable to a direct drive wheel, but the backlash is very low, latency is non existent. It probably would have been better with some belts instead of the gearbox, but still it's better than any gear driven entry level wheel
@@DAZprojects If you prefer belt drive, there should be some reason, but I believe this is a better idea because the forces from hand doesn't directly transfer to the motor and the motor might live longer....
Unfortunately the same torque from a single simple belt drive is hardly an option, however, a compound belt drive could be designed, and with your talent that will be a breeze... Waiting to witness that....
However man, I loved your pedals.... ♥️♥️♥️♥️
Brother I have a question, would it be the same process even with settings if i use arduino uno but not arduino leonardo? Btw, the video is🔥
No, the Arduino Leonardo has a different processor from the uno, so they're not swappable
why not just use a stepper motor? it has gearbox, encoder and no need for belts
I honestly wasn't sure on what firmware to use so I just went for what I was sure would work
50Nm is completelly bulshit! I have Asetek Invicta with 27Nm and I cant finish one lap with full power, on Monza not able turn into first chicane
Read the previous comments, 50nm is the stall torque so it's not a wrong statement, it's just incomplete. Us as TH-camr need to attract the attention in some way or the algorithm will not show our videos. I'm now working on a hoverboard based DD steering wheel and I'll be more scientific in that video since it's something I think more people will replicate being cheaper and overall better in any way then this one. Thanks for pointing that out 👍
@@DAZprojects Listen, my neighbors cousins ex-roommates' hamster belonged to a physics teacher in its past life... So I can tell you there's no way it's 50nm of force. My lawnmower is 45nm and It would rip that table to shreds. I see you're providing factual information and specifications that make a lot of sense but this means nothing to me and the rest of the commenters.
Nice work
400for that? mmmmm. may as well get the cammus c5 with the pedals included its cheaper and its a dd and you get pedals too. or if you want more torque use a hub motor from ebike or hooverboard. the smallest hub motors of ebikes can do as much as 50nm so the smaller the better. and hub motor is one of the best feeling dd motors out there.
I know, I was thinking of using a hub motor but I had no idea about the software, if you know more on how to use them let me know, I would love to try building a better one
Thats not 50nm in translation to the power you get. It may be rated that way but the numbers we use in wheelbases isn't based on just the motor but the power it can produce when together and pushing to your hands. This isnt 50nm. Sry
50nm stall torque is not how you measure wheelbase torque. This is a 5nm wheelbase maybe 10nm tops.
Doesnt seem like its moving much more then 5nm wheelbases do. Something is off with your testing.
The qay thw wheel was moving with your settings looked like 2 to 3nm on my wheelbase I use set very very low.
It looked pretty weak in action. And if you have to use 40% to not clip its def not close to 50nm if its clming out to 5 or 6nm at 40%. Just saying.
But still an awesome project!
50Nm is 50Nm, if the engine uses it, then that's just how it is. Even well-known manufacturers use physically standardized specifications.
@thomaslocke1503 this is not 50nm. Its not actually giving him that. He's using it at 40%! That would be over 20nm. Do you see a 20nm wheelbase react this slowly and easily? No I own a 23nm wheelbase, 15nm and 27nm. My 15nm wheelbase gives way more fight then this even set to 10nm.
He also explained it's not 50nm static he measured 10nm in other ways which this makes way more sense. That looks like a 10nm wheelbase being used at 4 to 5nm.
Its all about how the forces are measured. I've also never seen a 50nm motor this small before. 50nm is absolutely insane. Our biggest in the industry for sim racing is 35nm at the moment. And believe me that at 40% is pretty wild. Same goes for vnm 32nm wheelbase. Or the simucube ultimate.
Look at the small belt holding it an moving. Yeah 50nm? Heck no that small belt wouldn't hold or be able to move or maintain torque at that level.
@@reviewforthetube6485 Nm are always specified the same and it means 1N at one meter lever arm. No matter how and where you measure it! You didn't even understand that the little belt only transmits the angle of rotation to the sensor 😜
@@thomaslocke1503 again he didn't get 50nm of static force and his testing showed 10nm. So putting 50nm isn't correct.
Bro
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