Repair a BMW I3's jammed plug lock
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2024
- My I3's charging port lock jammed. This prevented me from using DC fast chargers. So i fixed it. BMW's instructions:
www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/i0...
www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/i0...
I'm not responsible for what you do after watching this video. There's high voltage involved. Weigh your risks. Get qualified help if you need it. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I love that you rebuilt that part. Nice video
Thanks for the interesting video. I am able to confirm what others suggested might work in the comments of the other video on this subject from Bjorn. It's entirely possible to do this repair WITHOUT removing the rear bumper and quarter panel, and WITHOUT jacking up the car and removing the wheel and inner well liner as well.
I did it in about an hour on a US spec 2015 REX. I was glad I was able to find the necessary 20T PENTA-LOBE BIT. I had to buy a whole set of 3/8 drive bits to get it, but well worth it. On the US i3 the fasteners are on the back side so I could not get a ratchet in there. I was able to turn the bit by hand. (EDIT: I found my short swivel ratchet which allowed me to tighten these properly when reinstalling.) In addition, I did not find it necessary to unplug the light bar. Just left it dangling with the lid and frame. Plugging the lid latch actuator back in was a bit tricky, but manageable.
You are our Hero !
Thanks for sharing this very instructive video !
Thank you! With one quick search on TH-cam I've discovered why my I3 has not been able to charge at any Quick Charge station lately. Figured it was something like this. Thanks for posting video
Hey there did you find this was the solution?..My car would only charge at a DC fast charge when i lifted up on the handle..otherwise it wouldnt. I had BMW replace this with a new locking unit and it still has the same problem, it wont lock the charging handle even on AC charging when I lock the car. They refuse to to the job again and fix it saying I need to replace the entire charging port assembly and cables!! for $2700!!.. I contacted BMW support and they are looking into it. I am going to post this on my youtube channel to show that in my case, the reason people are lifting up on the charging handle to start DC fast charging is because of the locking mechanism not working properly.
@@johnnyzee383 I found that the little latch that locked the charger in place was sticking. A little lube in there seem to solve the problem temporarily. I still occasionally run into this problem when I forget to get lube on it.
@@campjoe42 And this happened with DC fast charging?
@@johnnyzee383 my particular problem was when I went to quick charge the small plastic lock would not engage with the charge handle. It is a small plastic knob at the top of the charge cluster. If it does not engage with the charge handle the charging will not start. My home charger would work just fine but I could not use quick charge. I found that a little dry lube shot in there and locking and unlocking the car would help this little plastic piece run smoother. Hope this helps a little bit not that great at explaining things in text....
@@campjoe42 Thanks, ok mine would not charge either and now I know why..so the handle of the DC charge is so heavy it sags on the charging port and that is enough for that little locking pin to BIND on the top of the locking handle latch not engaging properly and if that happens the car reports to the charger that its not locked and charging cannot commence. By lifting up slightly you straighten out the charging handle and the pin can then slide over the locking latch and secure the handle and charging would commence.
Did you ever make the Banjo-Kazooie messenger app?
My I3 is also not fast charging. ISTA diagnostic software says it is a wiring disconnect to the locking mechanism or a faulty locking mechanism. Seems like the wiring is less likely to fail than the lock. Wondering if you know what your fault looked like to ISTA.
How idiotic car manufacturers are to make things so difficult to replace. I just started having the lock pin issue and used the emergency release, but I can do that forever, i sprayed wd-40 on the pin, have yet to plug nozzle back in, but going to try tonight and see if that helped at all. Thanks for the well informed video, very helpfull, beers on me buddy.😊
I replaced mine a few months back using a different video. No removing the rear bumper or other panels. Just the inner wheel liner. Here's a link to another video in case it helps anybody else wants more info before tackling the DIY. th-cam.com/video/ziVu9-v69eE/w-d-xo.html
How much would bmw charge to replace this
My fellow i3 enthusiast ! My i3 has a different issue in the same area. When I release the door (by pushing in) it makes a loud noise, like one of those (old fashioned) party noise makers, that you spin and it makes a loud clacking noise. I think it might be those gears that you greased. What do you think?
My level 2 works, on my charge port but the dc fast charge level 3 will not work, at any station. The dealer wants $4k to fix by replacing the fast charging cable. … any experience with what could be throwing it off? I’ve seen people replace HV cables but not sure… any thoughts???!
you should not have have liquids anywhere near high voltage when working. you could spill it over on hgih voltage
Lets say you have a i3 2015 (like i do) and you want this issue fixed. You have warranty on it but you bought it from someone else. How would you go about that? Fix it yourself? or have bmw fix it and hope they wont charge you? Im not the greatest mechanic and i dont want to make it worst (dc fast charging aka combo wont work)
I'd give the service department a visit. See what they say re: your warranty. Definitely don't attempt this if you aren't confident - there's high voltage involved!
Spag The Maker Ya i dont plan on repairing it on my own. I did buy the car off someone else and i guess apparently warranty doesnt apply on the car anymore. Which sucks bc battery only charges up to a max of 55-60. I thought 70 was the max. Im still looking online for that motor part but i cant find it. Im in serious trouble :/
@@CrackGameingStudio I'm fairly certain 61-13-6-842-870 is the part number, but there's some conflicting reports. Yeah, 55-60 miles is normal for the smaller battery. You really have to drive efficiently to break 70 miles. Driving fast on the highway I rarely get past 50ish. If I slow down I get the 70 miles. With the fixed motor I made my 150 mile trip with no issues topping up at a few CCS DCFC stations, so keep trying!
US market W/DCFC locking pin actuator = 61-13-6-805-424
EU market w/DCFC locking pin actuator = 61-13-6-805-425
Hello, can you send me your « installation instruction » to take off the rear fender ? Please
Your time is worth something, too! When you buy a BMW, replacing a $100 part is going to be expected. This part is a known issue with 2014 / 2015 BMW i3s and it's just better to get a replacement. *$%& those pentalobe screws! Not nice BMW!
Quite. Repaired part is still going one year later! When it fails again I'll probably get a new one, though I do enjoy my time spent coming up with repairs :)