Initially, when connecting the power supply, you got a small arc. So, this faulty switch shorted the input when not depressed. For the rest, it seemed to work properly. When the battery was connected it gone into short protection. When you connected the Li-ion cells straight to the drill's input, the short got burned up and the spring got heat-damaged. So, probably the spring caused the initial problem. Maybe it bent out of shape and shorted some conductors next to it. Dissect the old switch and look for evidence of arcing and heat damage. So, initially, the battery was in the overcurrent protection state: the MOSFETs disconnect the load. The BMS was still passing a small current, for checking if the short would be still present. That small current is only enough to light the LED. Usually, the BMS resets itself to normal operation after a while, unless the short circuit is still detected. Or maybe your shorting action caused a reset. Since you replaced the switch, I think, this device is now safe to use. But you should still test if the BMS's safeties are still working properly: If battery is almost empty, it should stop working abruptly. If you can still 'use' this drill until the motor slows down to a crawl without load, the protection circuit is broken and the battery should be discarded. Don't try to fix, the cells are probably internally damaged at this point and can get dangerous if you try to recharge them. Short protection: connect some car headlight bulbs up in a way that you have 4 filaments in parallel. Connect that to the output of the battery. The filaments should not light up. Or, just short the battery's terminals using an unfused/cheap 20A multimeter, and see if it cuts the current. While doing this, have snips handy, so you can quickly cut the wire between the cells and the BMS in case this goes very wrong. Another thing to do, to increase battery longevity and net capacity: manually balance the cells. This BMS seems to be not doing any balancing: it just stops charging all cells if one reaches 4.2 volts. In order to balance the cells, you should fully charge this battery with the included charger. Then, with your multimeter, measure all cells individually. Then, with your power supply set at 4.20V, 0.5A, you bring the voltage of the lower cells up to the voltage of the highest. This might take a while, per cell. Don't speed it up by increasing the voltage or current limiter. Be extra careful with the polarity: the 4V of a charged 18650 will win over the reversed 4V of your power supply with ease and you'll be doing a 'trying to fix' on your power supply.
From what I've heard the difference between 18v and 20v are mainly marketing - no real technical difference. Here in the US we mainly see 18v/20v as the standard for most consumer brands found at big box stores - I've built decks around my large backyard shed all with an 18v Ryobi cordless drill screwing 2 1/2 inch deck screws for hours on end - of course I had to rotate through batteries but with about 3 being charged and in use you could go pretty much all day. Glad to see you gave it some new life Vince - as always really enjoy the content.
Its because the protection circuit on the negative side of the battery was faulty and when you arking/sparkle and weld the wire, you burn it out completely and now you just have negative short and you measure straight 20V from the battery, but the charging control on the positive side is OK so it charges normally, but no short protection on BMS PCB (that is what the monitoring PCB is called and that is why it is connected to every single battery junction). Then that arking/sparkling (that event acts like oscillator and may generate thousents of volts in this unstable condition) burn out the transistor (or Triac/Thyristor) in switch. When battery is loaded, the current may peak up to 15 Amps or more depending on drill load, so voltage will drop to 18V and even less (Ohms law), that is why the switch was rated at 20A. Maybe there was also primary fault in the switch. Any other questions? :D
I tend to agree with you on this one. I wouldn't trust the BMS now either as there is a potential for further arking and a catastrophic fire occurring. The BMS should be replaced.
@@rdp8545 Because BMS now does not have max load protection, huge load on the batteries can set the whole drill on fire, there is nothing to "unhook the power" when critical condition is acheived. I edited a bit my previous post so now is more accurate.
@@ErrorMessageNotFound Now this is nonsense, or should I say insufficient knowledge. I am sure that you are not familiar with bad consequences for MOSfets or bipolar transistors under arking conditions, also you need to consider capacitive charges, peak currents and voltages, when sparkling occurs there are dozens of bad anomalies that happens. That board is not meant to be a welding inverter, if it was, all conditions would be well calculated for that purpose. That protection is not made for strong arking rather than overcurrent conditions. Nobody will invest in industrial well calculated power supply on cheap drill so it will last longer, consider this too.
@@Mymatevince Well i don't know all answers, but it happens to know those and a lot more answers. I am sure you'll agree that many things you can't find on google, but your and of the people around you experience will give you those priceless hidden answers.
You don't often have me grinding my teeth in terror Vince. As a vaper and having seen what happens when these batteries go ballistic when shorted, this video made me uneasy. You've got balls of steel old bean.
Very nice video. The button was shorted. The BMS stops the current in case of a short circuit and recovers when the battery is connected to the charger. After the short circuit disappeared, the battery operated normally. After replacing the defective button, the drilling machine is in perfect working condition.
I love your persistence and interest and your dedicating time to repair. If only more people would do this we might have a cleaner world rather than always dumping stuff that doesnt work any more. Of course problem is to charge a fee for such repairs means an expensive fix and particularly if you need to risk buying a sub part and expecting it really will fix the root cause eg pcb repairs at component level. . But great fun for the hobbyist repairer person and a great way to learn and improve. I do similar myself.
Very useful. I've got one of those drills that appears to have a faulty switch. It actually failed the first time I used it, but I never got round to returning it and it's out of guarantee now, so one day I'll take it apart now I know what to expect! I've also got a 12v Aldi drill, which has been massively overworked because this one is faulty, but it's taken all the DIY work I've thrown at it without complaint. It's only got one battery, but has a fast charger so is ready for use again after a tea break! I bought the 18v one because it wasn't much more expensive than buying a second battery for the 12v one, and it came with two batteries!
Bloody he'll I just about jumped out of my skin with those sparks. I remember my mum was trying to fix a broken power cord on an old hoover junior. She cut through the cord when it was still plugged into the mains. She was nearly blown to kingdom come lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I did ask a colleague that design medical equipment, what could be way it was behaved like it did. His explanation was dust in the switch, when you disabled the over current protection and put the hole load in to the machine you burned the dust of in the switch. Way did it work when you had the benchpowersuplly, it was because you were bringing the dust but not high enough to burn the dust away. Do not fully understand his answer but maby you do. Thank you brilliant video.
The BMS is dead. That's why it sparked and burnt out the trigger. You are bypassing the BMS so the drill no longer has protection. The BMS would have been limiting the amps from the battery to lets say 10amps. As you're connected directly to the negative now you are most likely drawing the max amps from those cells which is why the drill is so powerful now. I don't expect it to last long. Normally, if the volts from the BMS is lower than the battery then the BMS has detected a fault. Could be the BMS was wired up wrong, the BMS is damaged, or the batteries are no longer the same voltage.
I think the charging and protection controller got reset because of the short/overload. The short/overload made the voltage supplied to it drop to zero, so it lost its memory. Just guessing.
Yeah had xbox 360 charge and play kit not holding a good charge sparked the positive and negative and it worked better than it was though not really 100% but close enough anyway. Did that to an old Nokia battery too wasn't working, worked after shorting for less than 5 seconds!
Just a thought but if the spring is part of the circuit it could be the over current heated it up so much it make it contract and affected the speed control. With the sparking, you may have shorted out the current limiting features of the circuit, causing an overload and going back to point one. Id suggest the new switch will be fine, as to why its now working as suggsted below the sudden surge may have equalized the batteries.
Most likely it was a faulty trigger with a short accross it when not pressed in, when you powered it off your bench psu it would have gone into CC mode until you pressed the trigger then it ran, this short would have caused the bms in the battery to shut down explaining the low voltage, when you directly connected the batterys to the drill that dead short would pulled the batterys voltage down so much the bms would have very little voltage across it causing it to reset.
excellent video vince my guess is you gave the drill a good looking over and when you mentioned the my mate vince massive the drill got a shock and started working lol :) crazy
Hello Vince. I got similiar problem with a battery from Aldi. The voltage was there in the cells, but the output voltage of the board was very low. I found out that the temperature sensor cable was loose so it limited the output voltage. (Or I believe it is for the temperature. The thin wire which is glued on the side of the batteries.) When I resoldered it immediately came back to life. I would be intrested to see if you wiggle the sensor cable will the output voltage drop on the battery. Keep it up, great videos :)
hahaha Nice Vince. A half hour Tea Break Fix video, I was thinking you might blow it up after your email and when you decided to try welding it i thought i was right :D By the way Vince, when me and the wife watched the other drill test on the 4" block of wood I told her that my Aldi drill would do it no problems at all and have just been vindicated lol. It was a great tool and it made an interesting video ;)
Thanks Mike, it looks like there have been plenty of answers to the questions in the video. Thanks for sending it in. Apologies that I couldn't get it fixed properly but at least we had a bit of unintentional welding🤣🤣
NO Worries about the "Tea Brake", I just Added a little _Special_ to spice it up ; ) lol I have NO Idea What you were doing on the Battery Board. Very Btave, i must say. _but, what do i know?_ Would Love to understand - perhaps a Jolt is All i need. ? haha
worxzone guild and worx all share the same battery, I actually have a guild one, which the brake stopped working with little use, but then started braking again on its own. Good to know the switch can be replaced if needed. thanks.
I believe that the charge controller was keeping things "safe" based on the differences in the cells half a volt difference may have been enough to be a "no go" between the charge controller contacts and the tool. Lots of videos out on TH-cam on how to charge cells individually by bypassing the charge controller - that could be dangerous if it's done and there is a low cell - I think that when the tool shorted something on the controller circuit or when you attempted to bypass the charge controller directly to the tool it brought other cells down to a similar voltage and that allowed them to be charged successfully.
I'm in the US and I wanted to send some headphones but my wife said it would cost too much and threw them all out. Do I need this grief? Whaja think NY to Watford would run me? I could look it up but this is more fun.
An issue the Samsung galaxy s3 had was faulty charge ports, I used a battery to short the wires together to make a spark, I would put it to the charge port and spark it a couple of times and it started working again, you might’ve jump started a component in the motherboard
Hi Vince, love your videos and have watched for a long time. If you wouldn’t mind could you explain why you check for certain voltages, amps and continuity?
I was interested in those two black components in the battery you were measuring 20 volts on them. Maybe they were faulty mosfets for power switching and the accident with the battery and drill could have blowen one to a full short through? The drill switch was damaged, not sure how that happened. Anyway it works :-D
With my experience with reparing broken USB ports on Powerbanks, it's always that if the output voltage is not coming as expected, disconnecting and reconnecting the batteries to charge-dischargr circuit, it resets the power charge controller IC. That would start working normally.
I would investigate the DC jack on the battery pack. These sometimes have a switch in the negative side (which closes when the jack is removed) and any poor contact / corrosion may have resulted in the power dipping when the drill was connected. There may be current control / limiting in the battery pack. Applying 20V to the drill (when it should have been 18V) without any form of limit (which may also be related to the DC jack) resulted in the ‘welding effect’. This may explain why everything was ok when you used your 18V ‘current limited’ bench power supply.
I had a broken battery in a Workzone cordless drill hammer from a member of the family. Somehow one Transistor burnt close to the power plug. It is a Sot23 thingy, nothing readable after the burning… I just removed it, and it seems to be just the switch to change the led from red to green when the battery is full… It works now to reload the battery. One device saved from the landfill. It was so cheap that it wouldn’t have been worth to buy a new battery…
Hi vince i have ps vita that i bought faulty no power i try to find the fault but could not find any.. replaced battery still nothing.. can i send over to u trying to fix it. Love From singapore
Hi Vince, thank you for this interesting video! Maybe you could start a battery series. There are many E-Bikes with Battery issues. One new Battery is often more than 500 Euro. There are companies that repair this. But it would be great to learn how to fix this problems - to reduce waste and also money...
DC = Negative = power into the device, Positive = power out of a device. the reason for the spark was you had negative connected first rather than last, hence the sparks, DC current is reversed polarity to the way you think current would flow. you will get sparks every time negative is connected first when playing with DC voltage. same with a car battery. the reason why you don't get sparks off a 1.5 volt battery is because the amperage is too low to make much of a difference. the reason for the spark was because of the circuit being completed via the light drawing current.
do you accept items from the US for a repair video? i dont expect the items back i just have a few things i think would make for a nice video and i feel like you may be the one to get these items working again..
Good fix & just a tip the bit slips because it's not the right one for the screw each screw head is slightly different because of manufacturering process that's why there are many different bits
The mosfet in the trigger failed short circuit. When the battery was plugged in it went into protection mode, and when you bypassed the bms you fried the short in the trigger. In the process it got hot enough to anneal the spring. The mosfet is responsible for speed control, so without that it's now all or nothing
I think i know what is going on now since some of the batteries are under 4v all the cells together go over 20v probably there is some circuit that brings that voltage down to 18v to power the drill since some cells are 3.8v the battery voltage is too low one one cell it isn't making enough voltage so instead your getting 15v instead of 18v at the output that's why the charger is over 20v because all together the cells are over 20v but because one cell is 3.8v instead of it being like 21 22v it's 20v so the circuit that brings the voltage down is only giving 15v instead of 18v that's probably why when you give it 20v it doesn't like it but 18v it works fine i hope you understand i tried to explain as good as i can in the comments I'm only half way through the video so i guess we'll see if my theory is correct or not
Am i the only one triggered with Vince not using the right bit for the screw? PH bit for a PZ screw... But may I say congratulations on over 700k subs, I started following around 150k subs 👍
it has been a faulty switch, perhaps the spring has worked its way through the switch and short-circuited the electronics in the switch. it is not normal that you can turn on the light when the switch is locked (when the right and left are in the middle), it must lock the switch so that you cannot use the switch for anything (it is a security when you have the screwdriver lying in your tool bag, for sides it is not in the middle, things in the bag can make the screwdriver run around and therefore use the battery / heat up the screwdriver so that it eventually short-circuits (gets hot). so all in all it has been a faulty switch😊there is a safety device in the battery (electronics) which switches off when there is a short circuit in the screwdriver, so that the battery does not explode. you bypassed the electronics when you soldered the two wires on, that's why it got stuck when you put it to the screwdriver😂😂 I have repaired many screw machines / battery drills (I have worked as a tool maker)😊normally the screwdriver must stop 100% when you release the switch, it brakes the engine 100% just like when you step hard on your brake in the car😊 that's why the engine makes sparks when you release the switch
When drilling into something, you need to pull the drill bit out every so often to clear the flutes, else you'll get the drill bit jammed in the hole and stuck.
I'm surprised passing current to the drill unregulated fixed whatever was shorted. I'm also surprised that short didn't manifest when you connected the drill directly to the bench power supply and the power draw seemed normal. I guess shorting the battery worked out in your favor as you may not have noticed the faulty trigger otherwise. Definitely a "do not try this at home" moment though.
Probably bad 18650 lithium ion cell, measure all cells, balance charge them, replace the bad one with one of similar charge level. Or replace all cells with stronger cells such as Samsung INR's or Sony VTC4. It is probably the BMS (Battery Management System) kicking in and stopping the charge. You could use your bench power supply to bring all the cells to a similar charge level to 'reset' the BMS. I had to do this on a Ryobi battery. Same problem, same symptoms.
I agree.... The reason he got sparks from 20V was because he was completely bypassing the BMS which manages the voltage between the battery and drill. He essentially solder two wires - one from the positive and the other to the negative terminals from the battery ends this completely bypassed the BMS which resulted in too much voltage going to the drill. The reason he didn't get that with his bench supply was because he had it set up at the right voltage and only 1.8A if I recall? Also I wouldn't trust the BMS now as something else may have ark and could potentially cause a catastrophic fire. Technixbul below sums it up well and seems the three of us are on the same page.
@@rdp8545 Yep. Spot on 1.8A on the bench power supply and if you short circuit any lithium cell, they don't like it at all considering some of them can output 25-30A for a short while. Risky business lithium ion cells especially for people who don't know anything about them. Just as Vince did, bypassing the BMS he effectively welded the wire from the battery pack straight to the drill battery contact.
I think you shorted something when you had that incident not the charging circuit but something else that's why it showed 20v you shorted it and bypassed whatever circuitry was making it 15v this is just a guess and I'm not 100% sure
Hammer drill? I know drill drivers are good for screws, but they’re not hammering up and down like a hammer drill does. They instead apply torque in pulses which works better than continuous force. Hammer drill is supposed to be for smashing tiny pieces off masonry when you drill into brick, mortar or concrete.
Well.. I'm vibrating now. My drink of choice this morning was coffee so.... Just messing ;) Anyway, another interesting one. Not sure why the sudden blast got the battery back in order, nor would I have expected the spring to had been hit with that kind of heat. hmmm.
Initially, when connecting the power supply, you got a small arc. So, this faulty switch shorted the input when not depressed. For the rest, it seemed to work properly. When the battery was connected it gone into short protection.
When you connected the Li-ion cells straight to the drill's input, the short got burned up and the spring got heat-damaged. So, probably the spring caused the initial problem. Maybe it bent out of shape and shorted some conductors next to it. Dissect the old switch and look for evidence of arcing and heat damage.
So, initially, the battery was in the overcurrent protection state: the MOSFETs disconnect the load. The BMS was still passing a small current, for checking if the short would be still present. That small current is only enough to light the LED.
Usually, the BMS resets itself to normal operation after a while, unless the short circuit is still detected. Or maybe your shorting action caused a reset.
Since you replaced the switch, I think, this device is now safe to use.
But you should still test if the BMS's safeties are still working properly:
If battery is almost empty, it should stop working abruptly. If you can still 'use' this drill until the motor slows down to a crawl without load, the protection circuit is broken and the battery should be discarded. Don't try to fix, the cells are probably internally damaged at this point and can get dangerous if you try to recharge them.
Short protection: connect some car headlight bulbs up in a way that you have 4 filaments in parallel. Connect that to the output of the battery. The filaments should not light up. Or, just short the battery's terminals using an unfused/cheap 20A multimeter, and see if it cuts the current. While doing this, have snips handy, so you can quickly cut the wire between the cells and the BMS in case this goes very wrong.
Another thing to do, to increase battery longevity and net capacity: manually balance the cells. This BMS seems to be not doing any balancing: it just stops charging all cells if one reaches 4.2 volts. In order to balance the cells, you should fully charge this battery with the included charger. Then, with your multimeter, measure all cells individually. Then, with your power supply set at 4.20V, 0.5A, you bring the voltage of the lower cells up to the voltage of the highest. This might take a while, per cell. Don't speed it up by increasing the voltage or current limiter. Be extra careful with the polarity: the 4V of a charged 18650 will win over the reversed 4V of your power supply with ease and you'll be doing a 'trying to fix' on your power supply.
What an interesting post... Vince has a great community
I love the fact you show all the mishaps as well as the final outcomes. Thanks Vince
Haha! Nice impromptu spot welder! Didn't expect that!
From what I've heard the difference between 18v and 20v are mainly marketing - no real technical difference. Here in the US we mainly see 18v/20v as the standard for most consumer brands found at big box stores - I've built decks around my large backyard shed all with an 18v Ryobi cordless drill screwing 2 1/2 inch deck screws for hours on end - of course I had to rotate through batteries but with about 3 being charged and in use you could go pretty much all day. Glad to see you gave it some new life Vince - as always really enjoy the content.
Its because the protection circuit on the negative side of the battery was faulty and when you arking/sparkle and weld the wire, you burn it out completely and now you just have negative short and you measure straight 20V from the battery, but the charging control on the positive side is OK so it charges normally, but no short protection on BMS PCB (that is what the monitoring PCB is called and that is why it is connected to every single battery junction). Then that arking/sparkling (that event acts like oscillator and may generate thousents of volts in this unstable condition) burn out the transistor (or Triac/Thyristor) in switch. When battery is loaded, the current may peak up to 15 Amps or more depending on drill load, so voltage will drop to 18V and even less (Ohms law), that is why the switch was rated at 20A. Maybe there was also primary fault in the switch. Any other questions? :D
I tend to agree with you on this one. I wouldn't trust the BMS now either as there is a potential for further arking and a catastrophic fire occurring. The BMS should be replaced.
@@rdp8545 Because BMS now does not have max load protection, huge load on the batteries can set the whole drill on fire, there is nothing to "unhook the power" when critical condition is acheived. I edited a bit my previous post so now is more accurate.
@@ErrorMessageNotFound Now this is nonsense, or should I say insufficient knowledge. I am sure that you are not familiar with bad consequences for MOSfets or bipolar transistors under arking conditions, also you need to consider capacitive charges, peak currents and voltages, when sparkling occurs there are dozens of bad anomalies that happens. That board is not meant to be a welding inverter, if it was, all conditions would be well calculated for that purpose. That protection is not made for strong arking rather than overcurrent conditions. Nobody will invest in industrial well calculated power supply on cheap drill so it will last longer, consider this too.
Again, thank you for sharing your wisdom technixbul. I knew the viewers like yourself would have all the answers 👍👍👍
@@Mymatevince Well i don't know all answers, but it happens to know those and a lot more answers. I am sure you'll agree that many things you can't find on google, but your and of the people around you experience will give you those priceless hidden answers.
You don't often have me grinding my teeth in terror Vince. As a vaper and having seen what happens when these batteries go ballistic when shorted, this video made me uneasy. You've got balls of steel old bean.
Very nice video. The button was shorted. The BMS stops the current in case of a short circuit and recovers when the battery is connected to the charger. After the short circuit disappeared, the battery operated normally. After replacing the defective button, the drilling machine is in perfect working condition.
I love your persistence and interest and your dedicating time to repair. If only more people would do this we might have a cleaner world rather than always dumping stuff that doesnt work any more. Of course problem is to charge a fee for such repairs means an expensive fix and particularly if you need to risk buying a sub part and expecting it really will fix the root cause eg pcb repairs at component level. . But great fun for the hobbyist repairer person and a great way to learn and improve. I do similar myself.
Totally awesome job in getting it fixed, I have no ideas but I am just here to cheer you on every video. Can't wait for more.
Very useful. I've got one of those drills that appears to have a faulty switch. It actually failed the first time I used it, but I never got round to returning it and it's out of guarantee now, so one day I'll take it apart now I know what to expect! I've also got a 12v Aldi drill, which has been massively overworked because this one is faulty, but it's taken all the DIY work I've thrown at it without complaint. It's only got one battery, but has a fast charger so is ready for use again after a tea break! I bought the 18v one because it wasn't much more expensive than buying a second battery for the 12v one, and it came with two batteries!
A solar eclipse at night? sounds like fun Vince.Good video.
Great video Vince, I love it how you shorted it back to life some how.
I LOVE the son calling on the phone from upstairs LOLOLOL that was hilarious, Sir Vince of the Castle
i found it rather sad, is this how lazy kids are nowadays? i was shocked but im old so meh !
i cant of been the only person thinking you was going to drill in to the porch again :) i remember seeing those drills in aldi
More TBF like this !!! Many thanks for great content dear Vince.
Bloody he'll I just about jumped out of my skin with those sparks. I remember my mum was trying to fix a broken power cord on an old hoover junior. She cut through the cord when it was still plugged into the mains. She was nearly blown to kingdom come lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I don't usually take 30 minutes for tea, but when Vince says it's a tea break, there's no arguing!
What a powerful little drill. And you saved it from the pile. Well, after a sparkling event😂 It was very interesting.
I did ask a colleague that design medical equipment, what could be way it was behaved like it did.
His explanation was dust in the switch, when you disabled the over current protection and put the hole load in to the machine you burned the dust of in the switch.
Way did it work when you had the benchpowersuplly, it was because you were bringing the dust but not high enough to burn the dust away.
Do not fully understand his answer but maby you do.
Thank you brilliant video.
Hi. Can i ask where you got the bench power supply from and how much please?
loved that comment about your son calling from upstairs as if you were living in a castle 🤣🤣
Crackin fix and video, mate! Cheers
The BMS is dead. That's why it sparked and burnt out the trigger. You are bypassing the BMS so the drill no longer has protection.
The BMS would have been limiting the amps from the battery to lets say 10amps. As you're connected directly to the negative now you are most likely drawing the max amps from those cells which is why the drill is so powerful now. I don't expect it to last long.
Normally, if the volts from the BMS is lower than the battery then the BMS has detected a fault.
Could be the BMS was wired up wrong, the BMS is damaged, or the batteries are no longer the same voltage.
Thank you for the detailed explanation 👍👍👍
I think the charging and protection controller got reset because of the short/overload. The short/overload made the voltage supplied to it drop to zero, so it lost its memory. Just guessing.
i was thinking that also
Yeah had xbox 360 charge and play kit not holding a good charge sparked the positive and negative and it worked better than it was though not really 100% but close enough anyway. Did that to an old Nokia battery too wasn't working, worked after shorting for less than 5 seconds!
Just a thought but if the spring is part of the circuit it could be the over current heated it up so much it make it contract and affected the speed control. With the sparking, you may have shorted out the current limiting features of the circuit, causing an overload and going back to point one. Id suggest the new switch will be fine, as to why its now working as suggsted below the sudden surge may have equalized the batteries.
nice one vince ... partially fix a drill and teach us to weld .im a long time viewer and fan of your work . keep it up .
Most likely it was a faulty trigger with a short accross it when not pressed in, when you powered it off your bench psu it would have gone into CC mode until you pressed the trigger then it ran, this short would have caused the bms in the battery to shut down explaining the low voltage, when you directly connected the batterys to the drill that dead short would pulled the batterys voltage down so much the bms would have very little voltage across it causing it to reset.
excellent video vince my guess is you gave the drill a good looking over and when you mentioned the my mate vince massive the drill got a shock and started working lol :) crazy
Ooh another drill fix you have so got this vince
Hello Vince.
I got similiar problem with a battery from Aldi. The voltage was there in the cells, but the output voltage of the board was very low. I found out that the temperature sensor cable was loose so it limited the output voltage. (Or I believe it is for the temperature. The thin wire which is glued on the side of the batteries.) When I resoldered it immediately came back to life. I would be intrested to see if you wiggle the sensor cable will the output voltage drop on the battery.
Keep it up, great videos :)
hahaha Nice Vince. A half hour Tea Break Fix video, I was thinking you might blow it up after your email and when you decided to try welding it i thought i was right :D
By the way Vince, when me and the wife watched the other drill test on the 4" block of wood I told her that my Aldi drill would do it no problems at all and have just been vindicated lol.
It was a great tool and it made an interesting video ;)
Thanks Mike, it looks like there have been plenty of answers to the questions in the video. Thanks for sending it in. Apologies that I couldn't get it fixed properly but at least we had a bit of unintentional welding🤣🤣
@@Mymatevince The important thing is that it made an interesting video :)
Workzone tools are sold by Aldi in in the UK. i have a couple of them and they are really good tools for the money specially for DIY folk
NO Worries about the "Tea Brake", I just Added a little _Special_ to spice it up ; ) lol
I have NO Idea What you were doing on the Battery Board. Very Btave, i must say. _but, what do i know?_ Would Love to understand - perhaps a Jolt is All i need. ? haha
worxzone guild and worx all share the same battery,
I actually have a guild one, which the brake stopped working with little use, but then started braking again on its own.
Good to know the switch can be replaced if needed.
thanks.
Nice One Vince, enjoyable video
Nice fix 👍🏻
That's a neat piece testing Equipment
You are the best mate !
I believe that the charge controller was keeping things "safe" based on the differences in the cells half a volt difference may have been enough to be a "no go" between the charge controller contacts and the tool. Lots of videos out on TH-cam on how to charge cells individually by bypassing the charge controller - that could be dangerous if it's done and there is a low cell - I think that when the tool shorted something on the controller circuit or when you attempted to bypass the charge controller directly to the tool it brought other cells down to a similar voltage and that allowed them to be charged successfully.
I'm in the US and I wanted to send some headphones but my wife said it would cost too much and threw them all out. Do I need this grief? Whaja think NY to Watford would run me? I could look it up but this is more fun.
An issue the Samsung galaxy s3 had was faulty charge ports, I used a battery to short the wires together to make a spark, I would put it to the charge port and spark it a couple of times and it started working again, you might’ve jump started a component in the motherboard
Hi Vince, love your videos and have watched for a long time. If you wouldn’t mind could you explain why you check for certain voltages, amps and continuity?
I was interested in those two black components in the battery you were measuring 20 volts on them.
Maybe they were faulty mosfets for power switching and the accident with the battery and drill could have blowen one to a full short through?
The drill switch was damaged, not sure how that happened.
Anyway it works :-D
With my experience with reparing broken USB ports on Powerbanks, it's always that if the output voltage is not coming as expected, disconnecting and reconnecting the batteries to charge-dischargr circuit, it resets the power charge controller IC. That would start working normally.
I would investigate the DC jack on the battery pack. These sometimes have a switch in the negative side (which closes when the jack is removed) and any poor contact / corrosion may have resulted in the power dipping when the drill was connected.
There may be current control / limiting in the battery pack. Applying 20V to the drill (when it should have been 18V) without any form of limit (which may also be related to the DC jack) resulted in the ‘welding effect’. This may explain why everything was ok when you used your 18V ‘current limited’ bench power supply.
Is the camming out during driving a bit mismatch between Phillips (PH) and Pozidrive (PZ)?
Damn Vince becareful!
I had a broken battery in a Workzone cordless drill hammer from a member of the family. Somehow one Transistor burnt close to the power plug. It is a Sot23 thingy, nothing readable after the burning… I just removed it, and it seems to be just the switch to change the led from red to green when the battery is full… It works now to reload the battery. One device saved from the landfill. It was so cheap that it wouldn’t have been worth to buy a new battery…
Hi vince i have ps vita that i bought faulty no power i try to find the fault but could not find any.. replaced battery still nothing.. can i send over to u trying to fix it. Love From singapore
Nice video keep it up 👍👍👍👍👍
Tea Break FIX? More like a Toilet Break FIX, or a Trying to FIX video, as you've originally suggested haha 😜
Might be a bad solder joint and the short created arcing that welded the solder joint together?
Hi Vince, thank you for this interesting video! Maybe you could start a battery series. There are many E-Bikes with Battery issues. One new Battery is often more than 500 Euro. There are companies that repair this. But it would be great to learn how to fix this problems - to reduce waste and also money...
DC = Negative = power into the device, Positive = power out of a device. the reason for the spark was you had negative connected first rather than last, hence the sparks, DC current is reversed polarity to the way you think current would flow. you will get sparks every time negative is connected first when playing with DC voltage. same with a car battery. the reason why you don't get sparks off a 1.5 volt battery is because the amperage is too low to make much of a difference. the reason for the spark was because of the circuit being completed via the light drawing current.
do you accept items from the US for a repair video? i dont expect the items back i just have a few things i think would make for a nice video and i feel like you may be the one to get these items working again..
Good fix & just a tip the bit slips because it's not the right one for the screw each screw head is slightly different because of manufacturering process that's why there are many different bits
The mosfet in the trigger failed short circuit. When the battery was plugged in it went into protection mode, and when you bypassed the bms you fried the short in the trigger. In the process it got hot enough to anneal the spring. The mosfet is responsible for speed control, so without that it's now all or nothing
I think i know what is going on now since some of the batteries are under 4v all the cells together go over 20v probably there is some circuit that brings that voltage down to 18v to power the drill since some cells are 3.8v the battery voltage is too low one one cell it isn't making enough voltage so instead your getting 15v instead of 18v at the output that's why the charger is over 20v because all together the cells are over 20v but because one cell is 3.8v instead of it being like 21 22v it's 20v so the circuit that brings the voltage down is only giving 15v instead of 18v that's probably why when you give it 20v it doesn't like it but 18v it works fine i hope you understand i tried to explain as good as i can in the comments I'm only half way through the video so i guess we'll see if my theory is correct or not
Again I'm not sure I'm just guessing
Nice one. Missed the eclipse 🤦 😂
I have this drill and just bodged in a switch to bypass the circuit. I suspected the switching transistors.
⚡whoa that was a big spark....
Let's try that again 🤣
I had one of those drills and used it as a semi profesional builder, it was surprisingly strong, but didn't last long
18v batteries are actually 20 volts but under load the 20 drops to 18. Some companies say 20 or 18 but they are all the same
Am i the only one triggered with Vince not using the right bit for the screw? PH bit for a PZ screw...
But may I say congratulations on over 700k subs, I started following around 150k subs 👍
You should be able to find the max discharge current of the 18650 cells. This will tell you if the switch is rated high enough.
That was an interesting one... the one and maby only time that 2 massive sparks did the trick
make sure u use the right bit for ph123 or pz123 screws and the right bits put screws in better
it has been a faulty switch, perhaps the spring has worked its way through the switch and short-circuited the electronics in the switch. it is not normal that you can turn on the light when the switch is locked (when the right and left are in the middle), it must lock the switch so that you cannot use the switch for anything (it is a security when you have the screwdriver lying in your tool bag, for sides it is not in the middle, things in the bag can make the screwdriver run around and therefore use the battery / heat up the screwdriver so that it eventually short-circuits (gets hot). so all in all it has been a faulty switch😊there is a safety device in the battery (electronics) which switches off when there is a short circuit in the screwdriver, so that the battery does not explode. you bypassed the electronics when you soldered the two wires on, that's why it got stuck when you put it to the screwdriver😂😂 I have repaired many screw machines / battery drills (I have worked as a tool maker)😊normally the screwdriver must stop 100% when you release the switch, it brakes the engine 100% just like when you step hard on your brake in the car😊 that's why the engine makes sparks when you release the switch
Hi bud l love this vid very entertaining lol more pls 💗
Maybe the bypass reset something. The spring may have been super heated while you were welding and its spring memory removed
Does Mike have a TH-cam channel? I'd really like to see him repairing brass musical instruments! That'd be fascinating.
great work
Would you be up to having laptop sent to you from out of country.
I'm sure he would, i think he has had quite a lot of stuff that has been sent from Europe and the US before
Hey Vince. Is there any chance I can PM you? I have a question regarding an original PS3. Kind regards, Lewis 😃
Similar problem to a RC car I had but it measured the correct voltage but I didn't have enough power to move the motors for long
When drilling into something, you need to pull the drill bit out every so often to clear the flutes, else you'll get the drill bit jammed in the hole and stuck.
Nice ur the best
I'm surprised passing current to the drill unregulated fixed whatever was shorted. I'm also surprised that short didn't manifest when you connected the drill directly to the bench power supply and the power draw seemed normal. I guess shorting the battery worked out in your favor as you may not have noticed the faulty trigger otherwise. Definitely a "do not try this at home" moment though.
Probably bad 18650 lithium ion cell, measure all cells, balance charge them, replace the bad one with one of similar charge level. Or replace all cells with stronger cells such as Samsung INR's or Sony VTC4. It is probably the BMS (Battery Management System) kicking in and stopping the charge. You could use your bench power supply to bring all the cells to a similar charge level to 'reset' the BMS. I had to do this on a Ryobi battery. Same problem, same symptoms.
I agree.... The reason he got sparks from 20V was because he was completely bypassing the BMS which manages the voltage between the battery and drill. He essentially solder two wires - one from the positive and the other to the negative terminals from the battery ends this completely bypassed the BMS which resulted in too much voltage going to the drill. The reason he didn't get that with his bench supply was because he had it set up at the right voltage and only 1.8A if I recall? Also I wouldn't trust the BMS now as something else may have ark and could potentially cause a catastrophic fire. Technixbul below sums it up well and seems the three of us are on the same page.
@@rdp8545 Yep. Spot on 1.8A on the bench power supply and if you short circuit any lithium cell, they don't like it at all considering some of them can output 25-30A for a short while. Risky business lithium ion cells especially for people who don't know anything about them.
Just as Vince did, bypassing the BMS he effectively welded the wire from the battery pack straight to the drill battery contact.
tea everywhere ... must be! (",) lol
Good video
I think you shorted something when you had that incident not the charging circuit but something else that's why it showed 20v you shorted it and bypassed whatever circuitry was making it 15v this is just a guess and I'm not 100% sure
Ya spark balanced the batteries out of sync works sometimes when battery died goes to low for balancing
Hey Vince. I saw faulty psvr headsets on eBay for under £30. Might make for an interesting video!
Depends on the issue. V1 often have broken wires in the cable. Not too fancy.
@@marcianzero_yt I bought a broken a couple of broken v1s and was able to salvage parts from each one to make 1 good one
Vince builds a spot welder would be a better title
i always use the hammerdrill setting to drive in screws
And always pick the correct driver bit for the type of screw,it avoids the skipping you get on the screw head.
Hammer drill? I know drill drivers are good for screws, but they’re not hammering up and down like a hammer drill does. They instead apply torque in pulses which works better than continuous force. Hammer drill is supposed to be for smashing tiny pieces off masonry when you drill into brick, mortar or concrete.
Says anyone would just buy a new battery -> proceeds to fix it
Breaks the springy thing -> proceeds to buy a new one.
I think the cells needed balancing, they were too far spread out in charge.
Yeah, and that short-circuit incident (li-ion cells can provide a lot of current) probably served to jolt the cells back into balance.
Pass, good repair
trying to find charger for my aldi workzone 14.4v cordless drill it is 2 years old
Totalmente excelente 👍🏻
stuck gate?
that block of wood he mutilated is worth more than the drill now a days
There is a wire come on soldered somewhere between the battery out and the terminals find it and fix it
I Have A Ryobi Battery the
Light Lights Up When Charging
But When I Press The Yellow
Test Button it Don't Light Up
Huh so how do you know some of these are tea break fixes? Do you record the speech afterwards or are you a time traveler
Well this case makes it quite obvious. It’s an educated guess beforehand. Sometimes it goes wrong... Usually the speech is not a voice over.
Hey kids , it’s fine to play with electric and when things go bang that’s a good thing and means you’ve probably fixed it.
Well.. I'm vibrating now. My drink of choice this morning was coffee so....
Just messing ;)
Anyway, another interesting one. Not sure why the sudden blast got the battery back in order, nor would I have expected the spring to had been hit with that kind of heat. hmmm.
At 3:55 I saw a spark comming from the red postive lead but that’s because of 18v going through the leads
The "Incident". This ONE is definitely a nail biter... going for some popcorn (hold please). OK! Now back to the show.. no-disrespect