Fuel Pump replacing by Cutting a Hole in the Box - GMC/Chev Pickup
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Replacing a fuel pump on a 1994 GMC or Chevy truck requires you to drop the fuel tank or lift the truck box. Both are awkward if you don't have the right lifting tools or your fuel tank is right full. It is likely to be an old beater by now so my method will not ruin anything pristine.
I cut a hole in the box and removed the pump from on top. This will make it easier if I ever have to pull the pump again.
There are lots of chirping sparrows who say you can do it in 15 minutes by lifting the box. Maybe it is true if you had the box off last week so the bolts are new, and you are in a shop with a clean floor, and you have some shop buddies to help lift, and you are not crawling around in a cold muddy marsh. So, you sparrows can shoot your video and send me a link. Don't worry about the length as YT will let you upload the hour you will need.
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Did this about 10 years ago on an S-10. I used a jig saw with metal blade, it made for minimal gap, less sparks and much faster than a grinding wheel. This is definitely something that should be done by the manufacturer, by all manufacturers! It's ridiculous that they don't give you access to a serviceable part
Do you have location details? I have 02 s10 extended cab long box
Job security for dealerships and shops; they know it would make the replacement so much easier.
This drives me crazy when a pump fails, years ago Nissan/Datsun had a small door in the bed held in place by spring clips. How tough could that be for manufacturers to do that?
Here's what I suggest. I cut my hole in the bed, then did the fuel pump.....easy..
Then I went to the junk yard and cut a larger hole in a old junkyard pickup bed..after cleaning up the sharp edges, I merely laid the new larger cover over the hole...put some silicone around the edges for a good seal, and screwed it down with sheet metal screws. The shape of the pick up bed plate, matched the shape of my bed perfectly, and laid over the hole and fit perfectly. My new plate was a couple inches larger than my hole, all the way around, so it restored a solid foundation for the bed. After it's all done....that new plate can easily and quickly be removed for future repairs. They didn't even charge me for the piece at the bone yard.
The finish product looks neat and strong, as the ribs perfectly fit over the hole and match up. The whole project looks factory finished.
Excellent idea✌️
I did this on my old Dodge many years ago and have never regretted it. I threw a metal sign over the hole and life has been good since.. Take care man.. I did throw a wet blanket over the gas tank for the spark concern..
Great video and to all the nay sayers that think they know it all,apparently you've never had to replace one or you have more money than common sense.There should be access panels for this but a mechanic goes by a book that probably says this will take 4 or 5 hrs which times 60 dollars hr is a lot for labor when it won't take them but a couple hours or less to do it...I'll cut the panel and buy my kids some new shoes with the money I saved.
@Brandon S But you ARE saving money. Well, maybe not YOU, but I know _I_ did. I saved the cost of two new tank straps, and mounting hardware - because due to age and corrosion, they would NOT be reusable. I saved the almost 85L of fuel I had just put in my tank the night before my pump died. Would have had to find a way to drain some of that in order to drop it. You know what that much fuel weighs. And in the event i was trying to do it by lifting the bed, I saved the cost of replacing the bolts and probably trying to find new mounting points - because 22 NW Ontario salted road winters have made those bolts one with the frame. So, yeah, saving a LOT of money (and even more time) by cutting the bed.
A shop would have charged me well over a grand to do this job - and would have surely found "other things" that needed to be replaced too. They also would have likely ordered the part from their local supplier - who I priced the assembly at over $600 vs. the $87 I paid through Amazon. No, shops around me flat out refuse to install 3rd party or owner-supplied parts too. They make too much off their parts markup. So cutting the bed saved me a TON of money, not just time. And I didn't have to fork out a hundred and some bucks to get the truck towed to a shop either.
I tell you what. Everyone can laugh, comment and talk crap about this video and what's being done in it. I did the exact same thing. And thank God I did! I have had to put three fuel pumps in my 97 K 1500 in the last 18 months! I believe it's the gas station where I'm getting my gas, because all three pumps went out after I filled up at this gas station. But anyway, this has saved me a hell of a lot of headache and heartache since I did the same thing to my bed. I can change my fuel pump in like 20 minutes, instead of three or four hours laying on my back under it. It's a great idea! It works! And if you don't want to do it, then just don't freaking do it. It's that simple. I have a bed liner in mine which covers the hole and keeps the water out. No problems no issues. And no hours of work laying under the truck removing a tank. Thank you for the idea and for the upload!
we have twin trucks now!
I love all the experts saying how easy it is to lift the bed or drop the tank.
It really wasn’t hard to just slide my truck bed back 2ft. Also was able to clean all my grounds easily. This just seems ridiculous because you don’t want to unscrew 8 bolts.. This seems like a pain to loosen and tighten those fuel lines.
I saw a coworker at the shop lift the box off with an engine hoist, then rolled the truck forward a few feet. One chain diagonally across the box or even a tow strap might work.
@@beezertwelvewashingbeard8703 did a bunch of body shims fall out? Or are they not there
@@SKANK_HUNT49 It was a Chevy, there were no shims that I recall.
GM should have had an access plate in the box from new to access fuel pump
I agree. However they are worried about money.
The ac delco fuel pump module for my 03 silverado is $305 at autozone. I got the same part number from summit racing for $166 including tax a shipping.
Great video, cut mine with a reciprocating saw on my 93 long box. A little hard to start but cut like butter with a better blade. There were no visible sparks but had a spray bottle to wet it down prior to cutting.
I cut all 4 wires as I could not get the connector under the box loose then crimped together, may solder prior to buttoning up.
Thanks GM for another great design, a lot easier than changing a turn signal light on the front of a 05 Cadillac SRX, that's a "shoot the design team" moment.
And a special thanks to all TH-cam contributors for making life easier, I refer to them before every project.
Whatzup Yes, I have one too. I don't know why I did not try that as it sure would have made a narrower kerf. Good idea.
5@
@@CasselmanCanada Summit Racing has several styles of access doors that cover cut outs. Most have turn button locks for easy access for the next replacement.
I did this on my 98 jimmy because I was not going to mess with rusty tank straps and filler tube on my back in a gravel driveway. Also this was the second pump installed in less than two years and it went out at a stoplight in heavy traffic so I modified the pump housing to fit two pumps. Now if the main pump fails I will not be dead in traffic or stranded, I just flip a switch on the dash to power the back up pump. And the access hole makes it easy to replace the bad pump so I always have the backup pump.
cbgreenbay Don’t have to remove the filler tube.... just disconnect at tank plus could have cut the straps off, cutting the bed or body to access the fuel pump is very unprofessional and shows how much pride you have in your vehicle
did this to my 97 gmc pick up , work great, use thin grinding wheel, .045 thickmess, got fuel pump at rock auto. cover fuel tank with WET canvas or thin plywood ect, attach 1-1/2 in flat metal to the piece you cut out to fit into the recess part of the bed. use caulking to seal. cover with rubber mat. good luck.
My 97 S-10 has same thing, a lot easier. And make sure to buy AC/Delco replacement, not cheap ones. Bought two cheapest lasted three months each. Third one AC, put in eight years ago, still works great.
Did this years ago to a S10 and a GMC 1500. Used an angle grinder with cut off wheel. Threw a wet rag over the fuel pump for sparks. Welded tabs onto the access cover, drilled and painted it . Screwed it down through the tabs.
& so everyone knows...the COMPLETE FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY can be bought online at 1A Auto for $70. It comes with everything!! Not just the fuel pump. With express shipping...it cost me $83. Yeah, I had to wait a couple days. But I saved like $175 compared to what Oriellys & Autozone wanted for the complete assembly. They want $240 😦😦😦😦.
I was going to cut a hole like they did in this video. But I decided to unbolt the bed and raise it.. and I'm glad I did. Because I had more room to unscrew the fuel lines and replace some of the wiring that was in bad condition. I replaced the fuel pump and the sending unit and replaced some of the wiring and the ground that was in questionable condition. The fuel pump I purchased is a Delphi fuel pump and a new sending unit from Autozone and new wiring harness from the GM dealer. The truck runs perfect now & I recently drove it on a 200 mile trip without any issues.
Just finished my 02,and the measurements where right on.Took the longest to get the ring off.Dam Wisconsin rust.Putting a new ring on with the help from my son,and it went easy. I was lucky that whoever had the truck before me did the wiring. Took about 2 hours with going to autozone twice.
Thanks for watching and posting a comment about your success.
Thank you!. I have a conversion van and the side panels that are all show and dressed fiberglass go near the ground. I have done 2 tank removals and both were on Chevy Suburban's. Those vehicles were easier only because I live in Florida with no rust and one was 6 inch lifted by a previous owner. Still a MASSIVE pain to remove all of that stuff AND THEN try dragging it out and getting more jacks and adjusting. back to the van. I measure many many times by crawling under and feeling the pump location and a mirror. Mt reference was the mounting holes for the mid captain seats. Sawzall(nope, to radical no mater the angle, besides to deep), Jig saw(works but the blade travel is not workable for the hoses out of site and the ribbed floor variation). Solution was oddly perfect. I drilled pilot holes for the other attempts and those holes with the drill on very low rotation were fast and did not go deep. I just made drill holes in a line on three sides, bent back the opening and then as this video shows "thanks Casselman" the rest took minutes. I even used a rubber mallet and got the pump to hum 3 times after 10 attempts confirming it was bad. Plan to bend lid back down and JB weld.
cut the access hole its easy ,,, your tool box covers the hole
GM should have made an access panel and backup pumps.
I've done it to 2 ford rangers I've had CasslemanCanada only I used a saws all, stupid is taking box off or dropping tank especially to find out " something " has come loose after you put it back and get to start over again, all the trolls and the " advise " are kids or people that just aren't allowed to TOUCH Mom's car much less work on, good job, Geat video !
I used my air hammer with a cutting attachment for this job. No worries about sparks. Cut through the steel like butter. Had a hole in about 3 minutes.
That's a good idea. Wow, I would sure need ear protection. I can just imagine the noise inside the box with the air cutter.
Damn, what great idea!!! I’m no fan of slicing with a whiz wheel rear a gas tank even though I’ve got lots of experience with them. The panel cutter is going to be the cats azz and will knock it out in no time. It’s my second one and the first replacement is only around 10,000 miles on it. Thanx for the idea
Thanks for the vid.
Tomorrow I plan to cut a larger hole in the bed to access the fuel lines into the tank, larger than the one I cut today and then got pressed indoors by rain. I used a Sawsall today but was considering the wheel cutter tomorrow, I figure I will place sheet metal over the gas line areas... or not. Maybe stick with the sawsall. Kinda frightened of sparks around the tank. Oh, reason is the tubing that connects the lines are all kinked.
Cut an access hole in my 89 Camaro , saved three hours of laying under the car .
This video is very helpful and love the fact that you put all of the measurements in there is a big plus.
1st of all, great video and great job in making due with what you had to work with!! I'm in the same boat right now. I can smell a gas leak and I'm betting it's coming from the top and around seal or rusted lines of the tank. AND I plan on doing a lot of welding on the frame near the tank. So I have to find the leak 1st of course. This is a GREAT way to access the fuel pump! No way am I going to pay a mechanic over a grand for replacing it.
Thanks for watching. Hope you fixed that leak quickly and easily.
It's kinda rare that I ever take time to throw my 2 cents in on comment section of any video. But for all your suggestions that this is the dumbest way ever. Because it's " lazy" or "stupid". As if Casselman didn't reckon the downsides are worth the headache , due to the variables in his situation.
You aren't the ones performing the work. Castelman understand it's not proper industry standard, without the deeply insightful commentary pointed out by ass hats. Besides I'm pretty sure some where, at some time, somebody really wise said "blessed are the crafty "
Thanks for the video you crafty ,and probably blessed, Canadian you
Mike D hey. Keep your two cents to yourself you fucking bitch. You’re a hack just like this bitch
I’m gonna do this on my 1992 Chevy 1500. Thank you fir the info bud.
God bless!
Hopefully you had a cutoff blade not a grinder like me
This is precisely the kind of idea I've been looking for with the reinforcement metal cross hatches. Perfect! Can't believe I didn't think of it. LOL...Thanks so much. Subscribed!
Glad I could help! Thanks for the comments.
You can buy metal cut off wheels for those small hand held grinders. They make a much better cut than the grinder wheel. Great video. I have to do the same thing to my 99 Chevy Tahoe.
Yes, but the price of the fuel pump and the amount of work to diagnose the problem already had me upset and angry. So I was not going to spend a penny more than I had to. Time to improvise. I should still go buy a blade though. That sounds very handy to have.
@Brandon S Good suggestion. So I went looking for a cutoff disc. Since I am at least an hour from any major shopping center the only place was the local Canadian Tire. Hmm $4.99 plus tax and at 1/8" thick it still would have been to thick to satisfy the complainers. Next time I will first contact you or one of the other people with wonderful suggestions. Seriously.
I did this a couple of weeks ago on my 97 Sierra. Used an oscillating saw for the first cut (like a bone saw) then switched to my reciprocating saw with a metal blade (10 or 12 tpi, pretty coarse) and a shallow angle for the long cuts. Got the entire assembly on Amazon for $87, taxes and shipping included. (Spectra Premium part SP01C1H) Perfect fit, smooth installation. Getting the old one disconnected was the REAL bear. The clamped hoses came off just fine, but those two fittings ... wow. Ended up breaking the metal hose trying to bust them loose, then put a socket over them with a breaker bar AND a rubber mallet. It was an ugly scene. But it started first try, and has been running great. It was worth the cuts in the bed and the hours of fighting with those two fittings. Just took more hours than I expected ... because of the two fittings. But what do you expect from a 22.5 year old connection?
Screw trying to lift the box - THIS is the way to change these pumps!!
Yep, rules are for followers. Innovation is for trailblazers.
I used a jigsaw to cut a hole in the box, worked like a hot damn.
I cut an access hole in the floor of my 89 camaro after spending a couple of hours trying to remove all the crap in the way of the gas tank . I said fuck it I'm cutting a goddam hole in this bitch . Never regretted it and the new owners love me for it .😁😂
Great vid. I gotta do this to my 97 GMC Sierra. The rear fuel tank strap broke the welded bolt in the frame. So now the strap bolt just spins. She's an old rust bucket that was not taken care of at all 😪. I've NEVER seen this much rust on a vehicle. But since we cant get the tank off...& I'm afraid the "bed tilt" method will also render more stripped/broken bolts...then this seems to be the best method for us to change the fuel pump. Plus, we have a bed liner, so It will be covered.
Duane Watson use a tap to thread new bolts noob
Doing this on a 2000 Silverado . Mechanics did one 4 -5 years ago and put a new tank and fuel pump in . Just did the fuel filter and check ground under driver door if sputtering and one right of engine up top.
Hell , I've done it that way ! 🔧🔩🔨✂️
Probably should have used a cutting instead of a grinding wheel but good idea. 👍🏻 Cut off wheels are thinner and made to cut.
Yep, I own some now. But I used what I had back then. It sure would have made a nicer and more thin cut.
i did this on my last s-10 then when it rained my tank filled with water
just bought anopthert and low and behold it also has a whole cut in the box XD
I wonder, what if the engineers of a vehicle were also mechanics?
It's F***ing Hilarious to me when people who can barely put gas in their vehicles post comments about s*it that they have no clue about....I would also pay to see someone go through the process of dropping their tank in less than 10 minutes. I have done quite a few fuel pumps on both trucks and cars and I have a big shop, a lift to put the vehicle up in the air, and all the jacks, stands, tools, etc. and all the "5 minutes or less" and less than 10 minutes" comments.........LMFAO!!!
Ya dude, up north here they salt and sand the roads so heavily in the winter that anything you want to fix just turns into hrs of screwing around with rusty broken crap. Mine just went out in the 37 below bull crap and im absolutely not dealing with rusted crap this time of year. Cutting a hole in mine tomorrow haha
Thank you for this info sir. Good work. Good video. I think I’m gonna be doing this exact thing.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm surprised no one sells a cover kit yet.
Good idea.... Make one !
Try Summit Racing products. They have ones with 6,8 and 9 inch square doors. Also carry 8 x 16 access panels.
Great video man
@ 5:17 If you weren't worried about sparks with a grinder you shouldn't worry about a chisel, lol.
That's true. However if you look at the photos you will see everything is bone dry on the top of the tank during cutting, and by the time I was putting it back together there was a lot of gasoline on the pipes and exposed on the top of the tank. I began to think I was not willing to gamble a second time. Thanks for watching. Next video I will just use a torch. :)
So you used a low spark or antispark
"wide grinder blade" to cut the hole. "Cutting without providing any great sparks underneath." 😌
My cut off wheels throw a fair amount sparks, kinda of like a lot. unless I can't see them.
Then you are snicker about metal on metal. and use brass block/hammer to remove retaining ring after showering the top of the pump & tank with sparks.😂
Well then don't push your wheel right through the kerf next time. Only cut on the top and control your cut instead of letting it control you. Sparks hitting a tank is not going to explode unless there are available fumes caused by an open fuel line or perforation. Did I also say I put a shield under the box during the cut?-- can't remember. However hitting steel on steel directly on a fuel tank is serious as there are a lot of fumes and even liquid around when you are reinstalling the cover because it was just opened. Anyway I get your point. Safety is safety. But then I was not likely wearing gloves or coveralls or a welding apron. Quite likely I was wearing safety glasses though.
Great job
I just cut my flatbed off my 1 ton so I could replace the drive shaft. Looks like I'm going to have to cut through the cab as well so I can access the back of the transfer case. I'm not very good at welding so I'm considering some self tappers and metal roofing panels to get her back together.
I like your spirit!
Nice work dude . Like an artist .
I thought taking my 2005 ranger bed off would be a bitch but it was very easy 6 bolts one plug for tail lights then two people lifts right off easy, last time I removed from bottom it was not easy.
Great video. What brand was the fuel pump that you used, and how long did it last?
loosen the tank down to give you clearance so you don't cut a hole in the Loosens or anything just to loosen a little or drop it then you can put it right back up
Good Job Mate 👍
Thanks 👍 Although I do wish I knew about thinner cutting discs back then.
You never give a distance on left side Use 3rd rib then 4 1/2 inches from cab aand then 8 more total 12 1/2 inches out ...15 inches long don’t cut the inside just bend it out so just use 3 cuts easy 👍
Dude that's exactly what i wanted to find out! Thank you!
4-1/2 on that truck might take you too far and there may not be any cross brace to support the panel when you put it back in. Four might be just right to leave support for the original piece and also some for the removable panel. Everybody's truck is different.
NICE JOB
Thank you very much !!! This will be a great help.
Just be sure to use a thinner cutter disc and not a wide grinder like I had.
You can use thin cutoff disc on your angle grinder.
That's too easy.
Let us know the life of the less expensive fuel pump versus the Manufacturers Original Equipment
Hi thanks so much for the video. Can you tell me how many inches from the drivers side to cut and how long to make the hole? I will cut 4 inches from the bed like you said and make it 12 inches wide. Just wondering about the other measurements. Thanks so much.
Like I said in the video, I would go closer to the driver side next time. Easier to get at the hoses.
Thankyou for the vid!!!
Good video !!
good idea,the old car no problem
just one question. do you have to worry about rainwater seeping into your pump assembly sender opening?
No. It gets totally wet from splashing in a rainstorm but the box hole is sealed
please tell me do I need a electric fuel pump for my 1978 GMC truck is a 2wd 1500 or mechanical pump and what's the difference
Should be mechanical. Look on the engine.
Clarissa Ashley if you sell you car cheap I'll buy only if you don't know how to fix it..
Clarissa Ashley Mechanical pump, it's on the side of your block uses a rod to operate, a hell of a lot easier to replace than an in tank pump.
And a lot cheaper too.
These people droping the tank and lifting the truck box...geez lueez..
Cut a hole. Parts fail. Ebay parts fail. I got 2 wrong pumps for my S10. Ya. Who want to waist time.
Geez lueez
Just had a shop replace my pump in a 95 Dodge Ram 658.00 bucks could have saved some labor charge with this.
Is there room for wrenches to remove and replace JUST the two rear fuel lines without pulling the pump out? By cutting a panel out of the bed?
+fullblowngraphics I'm not sure. You might be working in a tight space between the tank and the frame. Where are the other ends of the two rear hoses? My connections were rusted pretty bad and fortunately I did not break the pipes at the flange when I was breaking the threads loose. Good luck.
Cool idea but I honestly feel like you spend more time doing all that cutting measuring rather then rolling it on ramps or jack stands hitting the carrier bolts bring a jack to lower it down literally a 15 min job rather then distorting (yes distroying) your bed..
Nope, did not destroy anything but the ego of those who think they can do it their way in 15 minutes.
If it was winter time i would totally get this. -40 with the windchill blowing snow. Screw it cut it and get it going. Summer time though mmmm not so much.
Very helpful. My line fittings were rusted into a ball and couldn't be undone at all. Had to cut the lines (on the pump side of the fitting) and then remove the lines at the fuel filter area. Not much of a problem.
BIG PROBLEM: Can't find a replacement part anywhere! I have the exact same pump as you show in the video. The label on mine has VAH 1C in big font, where yours says VRA 49. I can't read the other numbers on yours. Mine says 0545-17 on the right, 15:39pm on the left, and 729861-17 under the bar code. None of the parts shops I've called have any part that matches those numbers, and the teenagers at the counter seem unable to match my picture to what in their boxes... pathetic really.... So my question is Where did you find that replacement part, and do you have a valid part # I can use?
Hmmm. Did I get lucky? That was several years ago but I think I got it at Bumper to Bumper or NAPA. Good luck with your search.
@@CasselmanCanada I was hoping you had a part number... but yeah, I'll keep hunting I guess.
Whats odd is my fuel assembly has this extra float thing and yours don't same year truck too same fuel type system. Wondering if they took it out of yours.
Could you please send me the measurements once again on the whole you cut
Check out D-Ray Smith's video! NOT Total bed removal ! A well shot video, showing exactly what to do and WHY!
+Kevin Maas That works too. But trying to get bolts out of a rusted box bed while lying in a swamp was not going to happen. From the top was cleaner and easier.
I did this with mine too hey I had to use the old gasket the new pump just would not push down ever happen to you?
Yep for sure. I just did that on my Jeep Patriot last week. Old gasket and had to make a special tool from a cooking pot to get enough turning torque to rotate the ring. Oh, and lots of grease.
Not sure what you used around the rubber seal, but you shouldn't have used anything. the only thing that should be there is the rubber o-ring. the collar tightens down on the o-ring to squeeze it shut tightly. The gasoline will more than likely affect whatever you used and you will eventually have chunks of crap falling down into your tank.
Grease would dissolve. If the O-ring is dry it could bunch up and rip or not seal when you turn the collar. You always lubricate rubber seals on anything you install. Welding torch- No oil, just lick it. Axle seals, use grease, small parts, lick it again. Internal engine or tranny parts, use oil.
@@CasselmanCanada The lock ring turns on top of the pump's non-moving flange, NOT on the o-ring. It's fine to put a little lube on the o-ring but you didn't need it to keep it from twisting as you turn the lock ring down since the lock ring is not turning directly on the o-ring.
Was this a extra cab or single cab? Might make a difference where you make the cut.
Good point. This was an extended cab. I had eyeballed the location first by looking under the box and getting a close idea where the tank was. But i needed to avoid the ribbing too.
@@CasselmanCanada I did it yesterday and it was right on. I'm going to the junkyard to cut out a bigger piece that I can overlap and seal up with an old inner tube and some sheet metal screws. Never will see it since I have the bad liner.
This is a special kind of stupid. Bed comes off with like 6 bolts and why would you want to cut that close to the fuel pump. Old shit have a leak and boom 💥
Yes, unless that truck is from a northern state that loads the roads up with salt during the winter. Then you can actually twist a bolt off due to the rust. I prefer they came with a access door from the factory. But they discourage people from doing their own work when a dealer can do it for a bundle. Next best thing is to install a access door kit and make life easier.
Use muffler aluminum tape or windshield urethane , I am old and have nobody to help lift the bed ether.
I should have done the tape. Good idea.
Waay cool!! Where did U apprentice? (Someplace Cda?)
SAIT
Should have used Oven cleaner spray let it soak spray it off crystal clean.
What is the recommended cutting out of the bed 4 inches front of the bed left side and right side width and how wide .
Left: Cut at the 3rd rib from the left. 6:16. Right: Cut at the 7th rib from the left 0:48. Front: Cut at nearly 4 inches so you have part of the brace remaining. 0:51. If your cab is different than mine then the measurements from the front will be different. I think mine was an extended cab. But you should be able to look underneath and see where the tank is located and see which rib you are cutting at.
very resourceful.... I was just interested in putting a hatch in the floor to sand up..say to put a shower in a camper shell
You really cheaped out and didn't replace the strainer? Wow.
I pick up pennies off the road too.
wow now ive seen it all cut a hole in tha bed cuz u couldn't take tha bed off 😂😂😂
It looked like you used a grinding wheel instead of a cutting wheel
You are correct
when you replacing a fuel pump always get a AC delco you cant go wont..
You put the same old strainer on the new pump, which was many years old? Why not just go buy a new one?
Because I blew air through it and it was not restricted at all, and I would have needed to go get one, and I had figured it would come with a new one, It was a strainer-- not a filter and as I said in the video was not likely the original. No holes or rips and was not restricting flow and not brittle. Thanks for watching.
Heck throw a mat over it , done
Well this one had a big plastic liner. So no one ever saw the cuts again.
Badass
Standard cab long box?
Hmm. Good question as it will likely affect where to cut. I think mine is called the extended cab. It has a reasonably large window in the back seat. Here is a link to a photo like mine. www.prauctions.net/AuctionImages/090829-10AM_Photos/pages/090829w%201994%20Chevy.html
I can do this to my conversion van
Many years ago I worked for a Dodge dealership. A customer brought in his conversion van and said he smelled fuel. He had screwed down his plywood and carpet conversion and sent at least 10 screws into the plastic gas tank. I had to take out all the screws first before I could remove and replace the leaking tank. I just never put the screws back that were near the tank. Costly mistake for him.
I got a gas leak in the top of my gas tank. Sounds like a great idea to me tho.
can you do this with a 1997 Chevy extended cab
presque isle no you can’t 1997 fuel tank is next to the motor
I checking out my fuel pump
When I see the way the dirt is built up on top of the pump assembly, I think what kind of idot was allowed to design this arrangement.
For a vehicle that old that was very clean. Trucks are not for rappers to drive on city streets on Sunday nites. Its a work horse. Gravel roads, muddy trails, winter snow, and a paved road or two.
wouldn't be just as easy to remove bed of truck
Yah, for sure. By myself with no help. In a swamp of cold muddy water. Rusty bolts that I would have had to grind anyway. Good suggestion.
LOL I am doing the same thing on my G30 1994 Chevy 1 ton van today . 3 months ago I did my 2001 chevy 3500 van . Why do they always go out when the tank is full ??? LOL 30 plus gallon tank .
+Catfish Jenkem did this to my 2000 s10 . 7/8 inch square . bed liner back in to cover
Just finished my 1994 1 ton van .. total success .. I am in the midwest and snow is coming in tonight . vans too tall to get in garage .. I am finished !!!!!!!!! Did the same thing to my 2001 van .. happy as hell !!
oprocid1 are you kidding ?
how far from the side of the box
Photo at 6:09 shows location pretty good. Cut on rib 3 in the box instead of rib 4 like I did.
wow you cut a hole in your box to replace a fuel pump are you serious lol
Seems like the best way to go. Then you always have quick and easy access to the pump. Honestly I think GM should put a door like this in the beds of all there new trucks. It might be simple getting the bed off if you live in the south and have a clean truck but if you live in the north and have 20 years of salt, Calcium and sand damage those bolts are not budging and if they do the threads are no more.
its a deliberate design Eastern Explorer, plus price a G M replacement fuel pump, take it to dealer and your looking at $500 to $800 for them to do it the " right way " as the trolls on here suggest, it all a scam.
+Eastern Explorer I 100 pct agree
@@EasternExplorer trust me, its no easier in the south. im thinking about cutting a hole in my bed too.
I have a 2002 GMC 2500HD with 27,000 miles on it. I have had brake lines rusted out, fuel filter lines rusted out, Everything is rusting. GMC should have made all of these lines out of stainless steel. Very unhappy with this truck! Today"s date. 08/2016
GM, and all this foolish cheapness, went thru some very bad times ..nearly bankrupt, but for President Obama ...
Or you could just drop the tank and do it the right way.
You know they got cut off wheels and grounding wheels
haha. Now I do, but back then I had a new tool and it came with grinding discs only. Who knew!
@@CasselmanCanada Amazon's got a killer deal on cut off wheels the real thin you got to be careful if you lay them down wrong they'll break
@@cory1369 I have 4 machines now. They each have different discs on them so I don't have to make changes. But you are absolutely correct. Always set them down on their back (there is a pad there) as you don't want it starting up with the disc down. And you could also crack the disc and next time you pick it up it is a weapon with pieces coming for you. It just could be a Killer of a deal.
He's off on his measurements. I cut the hole in the bed and the plate wouldn't come off.
His measurements were off. When I cut the hole out the plate we're not lift off. It's spot-welded on the rails underneath the plate.
Nope, your truck was not the same as mine. I also said in the video to cut one rib closer to the side as it would have been better to have a larger hole right above the sending unit.
You having a slide in bed liner works for you . I've always remove the bed. I would unbolt the bed and disconnect the wiring and filler neck hose. I would take two six by sixes posts and place them between the bed and the frame. I would then slide the bed to the rear giving me accessto my fuel pump. It would take me anywhere from 20 to 30 minutes longer, p But it was always a clean job.
your choice do more work. go ahead.