Intake Manifold for VW and Audi 2.0T TSI DIY (How to) Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ส.ค. 2014
- This video shows you how to replace the intake manifold on a VW or Audi 2.0T TSI engine
Disclaimer: Please note all DIY are intended for basic information. Deutsche Auto Parts is not liable for any damage incurred during any attempt to follow the information shown in the video above.
Intake Manifold for VW/Audi CCTA/CBFA - Genuine VW/Audi
www.shopdap.com/vw-2-0-t-inta...
Intake Manifold for VW/Audi CCTA/CBFA - Vaico
www.shopdap.com/06j133201bhvc...
Intake Manifold for Audi CAEB (Longitudinal) Engines
www.shopdap.com/06h-133-201-a...
Intake Manifold Install Kit
www.shopdap.com/intake-manifo...
Fuel Injector Seal Install Tool
www.shopdap.com/wkz-t10133c.html
This also would be the same procedure when replacing this 2.0T TSI Fuel Injector
www.shopdap.com/vw-audi-20t-t...
This install DIY video was done with a really Awesome VW technician who has a blog humblemechanic.com/. Check out his blog for more insider info from the life of a VW tech.
Replacing the intake manifold on your VW 2.0T TSI engine can be a pretty scary task. Our video will show you how to replace the 2.0T TSI intake manifold (which includes the intake flap motor). We hope this DIY will help you either install it on your own or make the choice to have someone else do it for you, as this is a fairly difficult install.
This DIY (How to) Video applies to the models listed below.
Volkswagen
Beetle 2012-2015 w 2.0T TSI Engine
CC 2009-2015 w 2.0T TSI Engine
Eos 2008-2015 w 2.0T TSI Engine
GTI MK5 2008-2009 w 2.0T TSI Engine
GTI MK6 2010-2014 w 2.0T TSI Engine
Jetta MK5 2008-2010 w 2.0T TSI Engine
Passat B6 2008-2010 w 2.0T TSI Engine
Tiguan 2009-2015 w 2.0T TSI Engine
Audi
A3 8P 2008-2010 w 2.0T TSI Engine
TT MK2 2008-2015 w 2.0T TSI Engine
Shop for VW and Audi Parts Here
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VW AUDI Specialty Repair Cornelius NC
www.daprepair.com/vw-repair-c...
VW AUDI Specialty Repair Kent Ohio
www.daprepair.com/vw-repair-a...
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Intake Manifold for VW/Audi CCTA/CBFA - Genuine VW/Audi
www.shopdap.com/vw-2-0-t-intake-manifold-06j133201bd.html
Intake Manifold for VW/Audi CCTA/CBFA - Vaico
www.shopdap.com/06j133201bhvco-intake-manifold-for-2-0t-tsi.html
Intake Manifold for Audi CAEB (Longitudinal) Engines
www.shopdap.com/06h-133-201-at-vw-audi.html
Intake Manifold Install Kit
www.shopdap.com/intake-manifold-install-kit-for-2-0t-tsi-06j198201bhgrp.html
Fuel Injector Seal Install Tool
www.shopdap.com/wkz-t10133c.html
This also would be the same procedure when replacing this 2.0T TSI Fuel Injector
www.shopdap.com/vw-audi-20t-tsi-fuel-injector-06h906036ab-bosch.html
After doing this job (in preparation for decarbing the valves on a 2010 GTI) the car started throwing codes all over the place. I'm getting a P2008, a P2008 P, a P0341 P, and both the EPC dash light and the Oil Pressure warning that keep flashing on and off above 2,500 RPM. Driveability issues are present. Can't rev the engine up too much or it starts to hesitate.
I removed all kinds of sensors (that perhaps shouldn't have been removed), such as the camshaft sensor and the air charge temp sensor. What is the likelihood I may have damaged them while cleaning them (if they even need cleaning)?
I had to take off the manifold in order to reach the water pump. I found that it's a lot easier if you remove the throttle body. Taking off the throttle body allows easy access to that brace, which requires the triple square to remove. In the video, he doesn't remove it due to his experience, but it helps a lot.
I wish I had read this comment before I did this the first time. That stupid brace took more time to remove than everything else combined.
Agreed!
Same here that stupid bolt is almost impossible to reach with out removing the throttle body
@michaelw6277 is it at all possible to remove it by just removing the top 13 and then rotating the brace to the side or something or is it absolutely a must to remove that triple square
⚠️ WARNING ⚠️
This is MUCH, much more difficult than our friendly seasoned veteran VW Master mechanic makes it look, especially if your EA888 is in a Golf R, and ESPECIALLY if that Golf R is RHD. The engine an accessory positions are similar to what’s shown in the video, but NOT the same, and often MUCH more involved to remove. (The throttle body absolutely 100% needs to be removed on a RHD Mk6 Golf R for example, and other parts need to be removed to get to the throttle body bolts.
Expect to spend upward of half a day just to remove the intake manifold, and possibly multiple days removing it multiple times for fuel injector leaks. You can do it, but come in prepared to spend a considerable amount of time and effort, and needing many more tools than mentioned here. This great video (I mean that sincerely, thank you Charles) is just a general baseline for what you’ll have to do to get it done right. Good luck!
Just finished doing this job. Much more difficult and involved than expected. Took me a whole day of working on it to do it. It’s doable but it requires back support and good talking buddies.
7 yrs later and this vid is spot on and helped with carbon cleaning of my CC. Thankfully we don't have that support bracket
I just did the this job, took me about 4 hrs to do it, thanks a lot you help me and save $1000. It's what the dealer wants to do the same job, very helpful 👌
How did you take off the bracket on the body without lifting the car?
Yeah wish me luck I got to do it just for a damn regulator pressure sensor #2 that's under the manifold, fuel lines, hoses, etc.
The only direct way to get to it is with a deep socket 27 mm wrench. But the oil dipsticks in the way. So then I get that out of the way and then the sockets too thick to fit in between the gap of the manifold 🤦🏾♂️.......
They got to have a Gumby twisty elbow flexy type wrench to use for this..... Oh yes of course they do but none come in 27 mm
@@BirdFromYakiVegas lmao me today in my mk5 gti, that middle bracket omg, got to go back to it tomorrow spend hours toddy messing with they one bracket
Im trying to muster up the courage to do this. I cant afford to pay to get it done, plus i dont hve the extra money to do the carbon clean, which should be included in the repair price more affordably since the major work is taking this off
@@zachariahmetoyer6425 I just did it in a 6 or so hour time span , tricky bolts to get at but it’s off and can see the dirty carbon build up on the valves , it’s worth it if you got the time !!
I can't thank you enough for this tutorial, my CC has been in so many garages & cost me so much money chasing diagnosis & all along it was the dreaded carbon buildup.
Cleaned it all today & now she's running like a new car.
Thank you!!!!!!
Great tutorial! I removed the alternator as well, this helped facilitate the removal and installation of the mounting bracket on a 2010 EOS. I also purchased a grit blaster and cleaned the intake valves with walnut shells while the manifold was removed. At 160 km it was surprising to see the amount of carbon build up.
Thank you so much for your time and knowledge. Just did a intake manifold replacement on a 2010 va cc. I did things a little differently removing that bracket from the toddle body without a lift but thanks to your video I knew the part to look out for. FYI ...the toddle body bracket was removed from the top with out a lift from the top. Used a t30 along with a swivel and extension. Also a magnet is a great tool .thanks again you were a big help
This was not a fun task but the video was a great resource. I wish it only took four hours. Note to DIYers - take care of the fuel injectors while you have everything apart, and the Check Engine Light came on after I got everything back together but cleared and stayed off after about 50 miles of driving.
I’m literally an hour into this job thanks man
Great video! I had to remove the alternator on my 2009 CC to get at the lower bracket. It would have been nearly impossible to reach otherwise. Thanks for the amazing tutorial. Well done!
Many Thanks for posting this video and supporting us who still like working on their own vehicles!
Worst part about this job is that bracket for the manifold. Taking the throttle body off seems necessary, but getting those screws back in for the throttle body is no easy task either. This is the second time I've used this video and it makes the job sooo much easier. Thank you for this.
Thank you guys, looks pretty straight forward. taking the GTi to the dealer on Monday for the extended warranty on the manifold for CEL. Watched it just incase they do not want to change it because of the oil catch can.
Thank you for this video. I followed this video in the garage for carbon removal job, and it was really valuable.
I had the same problem with my 2010 VW CC, and I haven't done without seeing your video, it helps me a lot and I have a good result since I changed the entire manifold and cleaning injectors and new seals, thanks a million, I couldn't have done without you guys, thanks a lot.
+Rudy Gomez glad we could help
Took me 7 hours but this video helped me a bunch, even did my own carbon cleaning! thanks you!!
On my friend's VW 2009 EOS TSI, I needed to remove a short/sideways coolant hose on the midsection of the two plastic vertical coolant pipes, so that I could swing them out of the way. After doing this, I could then remove the hard to get at aluminum support bracket. Thank you so much for providing this essential video!
Though it's a 6 year old video it's still helping me big time. I watched this vid in 2x speed twice. After getting everything off, I watched it again in normal speed. Thanks for the step by step on this! Few notes for people like myself working on a now older, typically higher mileage MK6:
1. Do the intake carbon cleaning. Mine was so caked with crud that stalagmites were being formed off the top of the valve. Scary to think I'm Stage 1+ tune and have these overhanging maintenance problems that the PO did not take care of.
2. When doing the intake cleaning you have 2 options: chemicals or walnut blasting. A walnut blasting setup is minimum $300 (compressor, hoses, media, and a small hopper gun).
3. I did the chemical route. Its COVID 19 quarantine season right now so I have plenty of time. What I discovered was: Start with manually scraping with a pick. Followed by CRC Valve Cleaning aerosol spray. From there, use B12 aerosol spray. Then, finish it with CLR (yea that cheap bottled stuff). CLR is the secret here..it brings the valves back down to clean metal. Use a pick and paper towels (rip them into 2"x2" pieces and use the pick to push them around).
4. Follow with vacuuming/compressed air spraying.
Side notes:
1. you can open and close the valves by hand by spinning the belt off the alternator. Gloves help with grip, and avoid pinching your fingers.
2. That triple square #10? I used a #8 Allen, square (not ball end). No stripping.
Did you replace the intake manifold gasket? In all the videos I've seen no one mentions it but I feel like it should be replaced when you remove the intake manifold?
@@Eli9s I replaced the fuel rail and intake to the latest version (I believe its the 4th revision) because my version was failing - which came with fresh gaskets.
If you're going to take the time to clean the carbon I would also go to the latest fuel rail and intake assembly. Regardless, I recommend a fresh gasket. Sure, the original is a polymer that will last for years, but it's an inexpensive maintenance item (~$25). Just make sure that the gasket aligns with your specific intake assembly because there are 4 versions with slight differences.
4 Month update: I also upgraded to an oil catch can. A plug-and-play setup is $300+. In my mind, any GDI engine should have a catch can. I went with ECS' one. The quality is good and everything bolted up well. It will help prolong the maintenance interval between carbon cleanings.
@@richiethompson2919 thx for the reply.
@@richiethompson2919 i have the 2014 gen3 GLI and now im scared to order the gasket because this car has a bastard motor and everything seems different on it. Thanks for the advice. Not sure on what version of fuel rail my car has either but considering its the ea888.3 ill probably just leave it be
Thank you for posting this video but a bigger thank you to the humble mechanic for making the video and letting you post his video
Can’t thank you enough. DAP hooked it up, intake and injectors actually showed up in 2 days so I spent the Saturday tearing down and cleaning. Amazing tutorial and it’s not as hard as it seems. But finally fixed my wife CC and it runs better than new. Again much thanks to DAP and Charles for making this happen
so im about to order a manifold and do this myself..love both DAP and Humble..it looks hard tho, how did u manage?
@@yannzter I was nervous to do it my first time but it really isn’t hard
Man you’re a great teacher. I can tell you’re a master mechanic, I’m not even an auto mechanic I’m an industrial mechanic.
Really enjoy your engine video's. Your much more Zen like when your on the tools. That is a good sign.
As an DIY mechanic I love to pick up tricks that you show and see which tools you favour. Thanks
Many thanks for the video. Did my 2012 audi this weekend and wow was there a lot of carbon. Ended up doing the walnut blasting which worked well. I decided to put the throttle body on after installing the intake. That gave a lot more room for the bracket but that last throttle body bolt on the back side had me pulling out hair.
Thank you a lot for the instruction!!! This video is awesome!! I just replaced my manifold and water pump using it!! Also watched the fuel injector seal video and the work was really straightforward!!! It is not an easy task but with the details here it was totally error free!!! My biggest challenge was to put back the triple square 10mm bolt in the aluminum arm since the access with all the hoses in place is really tight and the Tiguan front grille is taller than the GTI ones!!! Keep up with the great work!!! Thank you again!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Replaced injectors to my VW cc flawlessly following your video. Saved $550....
I used this video as a primary how-to along with other videos and forum posts for other angles and specifics about the job. I ended up stripping one lower manifold T-30 on re-installation and wanted to post my solution. Rather than uninstalling everything and re-tapping I found a 10mm M6 bolt at the hardware store that was 20mm longer than the factory bolt and needed to add a 1/2" nylon spacer to make it fit correctly into the block. No problems as a result of this rig. I also cleaned the injectors and got all new seals for those - if your valves are all crudded up your injectors will be too. Doing that added 2 hrs to the job including constructing a diy injector cleaning station and figuring out a way to re-seat the high pressure injector seals without special tools (best to buy the tool and re-sell to other vw owners).
Thank you guys for this tutorial, it took me about 8 hours, but I managed it in the end on my 09 Eos with 130km. The worst part was the support bracket which took me about 2 hours solid and the intake valve clean.
Thank you for this video! Huge help on my 12' CC.
Great video. Replaced the manifold and did a carbon clean on my MK5 GTI and it runs like new. Charles and Paul, thanks for the video. I started to make a video of the de-carb but what a nightmare. Do your homework and watch this thing a few times and you shouldn't have a problem. I recommend removing the throttle body to make dealing with the lower bracket easier. I also recommend removing the cool air intake pipe by lifting the car on jack stands and drop it out the bottom. The only thing I had to find elsewhere was how and where to install the new fresh air port on the new manifold design.
Well done. I will have to do this when the weather warms up to replace my water pump. This makes me really miss my 1970 Chevy.
Well I did it. Updated intake and decarbon. That bracket under the intake is a real beauty.
Thank you so much, Charles and DAP! This was crucial to my success!
Thanks for this thorough and informative video! Just finished putting new injectors in tonight and startup and first run right after the job went flawless
How long did you take to do all job ?
Great Video!
I am a former Mercedes Benz tech and shop owner and I have tremendous respect for you VW techs. I say it to all of the techs when I see them when I go into the VW/Audi dealer for parts.
I have a customer with a leaking water pump or so it appears on a 2011 CC. I honestly don't want to do the job. I get beat up enough with Mercedes vehicles. I can't imagine that job being much less than $1,000. If I do it, I would like to address anything else while I am in there.
I really appreciate you making this video from the perspective of someone without a lift. Very helpful for DIYers. Doing a valve decarb today. Wish me luck!
A few notes from my experience doing the decarb. Just replace it all while you're there - Intake manifold and injector seals. After doing a decarb and putting it all back together, I got a P2015 code for intake manifold performance. The code wasn't there before I started, but came about after reinstallation. I'm redoing the job today to replace this part - $150 shipped on Rock Auto.
Other notes:
1) Make sure your T30 is a 1/4 drive, as his is. a 3/8 inch drive will make it hell accessing the lower manifold bolts.
2) Even if you don't have a lift, go ahead and remove the lower shield so you can access things from the bottom, it will make your life easier. You don't need to lift the vehicle.
3) I didn't bother removing the throttle body, because I found accessing the back T30's as hard as removing the 10 triple square on the brace. Accessing the brace is all about patience, finding the right angles. Pull the Main air pipe all the way down underneath the vehicle to give yourself plenty of space.
4) When reinstalling, I started the brace w/ the 13 mm nut and let it hang down. It made it easier to get it in place.
5) Finally, be very careful with the air ducting. The plastic tabs are quite easy to break and the piece will not stay in place without them. I had to order another piece for $20.
Good luck!!!
Awesome mechanic. Aaron Kaufman lookalike! Without your video I wouldn’t have been able to do this job on a 2012 Jetta. Thanks for the awesome detail you go into. Regards Greg
Non euro tech here, great vid, your confidence is contagious, made it easy afternoon for me. Thanks!
I just want to first thank you sir for this video. I had the P2015 code and decided to do it myself when the dealer said 4200$. Fairly easy job just because everything is on top and easy to access. I work full time so this job took a couple weeks to complete. TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE PATIENT. Watch the video over and over and over until you memorize and it will make the job a lot smoother especially on the reinstall. THAT BRACKET IS A MOFO!!! LOL. Got it off though and it's a lot easier to put back on. I recommend removing the throttle body but those two back screws will tear up some flesh. And I also recommend watching a couple other videos from others who have done this job before just to get some more knowledge and different techniques are used especially with the bracket. This is by far the most difficult job I have ever done but it is doable. Don't be scared. Once again, thank you sir for this video. Now time to go collect my payment from the Mrs. 😜
my dealer charged me $600 to not figure out the issue with my brakes (200) that i needed new coils and plugs because apparently the ones i had in weren't "OEM" enough even though it was the same company that makes the branded oem sparks and coils, that cost another 200. then they said 200 for an issue i told them i figured out myself. A new cabin fan if you were curious. they wouldnt have known about the cabin fan being an issue unless i said "hey i figured it out its the cabin fan at low speeds that makes the noise, so i don't need it diagnosed anymore." oh wait i did say that! Valley Imports in Fargo ND incase you want to know where not to take your vehicle to get serviced.
Great job with the change out .have just changed my mk 6 gti manifold and this video was invaluable . Great Job Charles and shout out to Paul for the idea .great channel and info ( I see what you mean with the support bracket .that was fun )
A BIG thanks from Brazil, because of that vídeo i could do the job on my B7 2.0 Tsi Passat. You have now a follower from Rio de Janeiro. THANKS A LOT!!
Thank you for posting this video. I have no idea how much money you saved me but I bet it was a lot more than the money I spent on the manifold. I was able to fix it myself with your video as guidance. I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for that. Removing your intake manifold and cleaning your valves would likely cost around $500-700 depending on whos doing it. We are so glad we were able to help you save some money.
@@Deutscheautoparts Volkswagen Billings charged almost 1200 dollars for a "fuel induction service" on the last guy who owned my car. Not sure if that was strictly intake cleaning or what but my god this video is gonna save me from so much financial pain.
Thank you again!. I started with a 1985 Golf that made it to 300K. I have an 2004 Jetta at 274K. And a 2015 Passat TDI that I kept despite the recall.
Took me about 8 hours between 2 days but god damn it, its done
Definitely not easy but doable
Yeah he makes it look easy… it’s definitely not. I’ve done it once and I’ll probably just pay someone next time
It's a pain. This is my 3rd time. Just change all your injectors at once unlike me.
Great video, thank you for your time and effort showing us how it's done! 👍
Great video Paul and Charles. Wonderful work as always!
Just watched your video DAP
Thank you for the tutorial if you are watching this and are about to do the labor , make sure you watch this video numerous times , take notes , and start in the morning
This is a professional pace, DIYs you might finish in the evening
Take your time.
Make sure it doesn’t rain and don’t loose any parts. German cars is not the the type to work without the same screws and bolts you started with.
Thanks for sharing brother
Good video, I like that you take a couple of minutes to double check on your work...a mechanic that fix my VW, left the intake throttle connection loose my car shut off and wouldn’t run... I opened the hood and fixed myself... also he forgot a screwdriver in the engine very close to the belt... so dangerous that could blown up my engine...
Anyway keep up the good work!
Tip: it’s always a good idea to cover the air filter box big hose , so you don’t drop something in there by accident!
Thanks for the videos man. Very well made and articulated. I had two intake runner codes on mine that popped up about two months after I bought it. it was a little frustrating. I bought the ECS repair part and crossed my fingers. Didn't work. So then I bought a new Runner sensor and saw that the whole thing had to come out... so I loosened everything up just enough to access it behind the oil filter housing and put it back together. Oddly enough one of the runner error codes went away and the other one came back so I bought a whole new intake manifold and just finished the job. Referenced your video a few times! 👍🙂
Very profesional, Great Tutorial. One of the best I've seen. Thank you
Great video. Just finished an intake carbon cleaning on my 2012 Beetle TSI with 100k. Also resealed the injectors, replaced the PCV valve. Was surprised to see the manifold bracket was nowhere to be found; but was a good indicator that the previous owner had the manifold replaced - and maybe a carbon cleaning? I won’t say this job was easy (I’m a relative newbie), but it’s given me the confidence to do just about anything under the hood. Tip for newbies: be sure to check that the high pressure line is seated and snug on both sides. I had a fuel leak - initially I thought it was a bad injector seal - so I took the manifold and injectors off again - only to realize it was the fuel line.
This video is the intake manifold Bible haha! I'm in the middle of doing this and have followed thIs video step by step. I decided to remove the throttlebody to make it easier to get under the manifold. I discovered my car did not have the wire harness ripping bracket. Hope it's not necessary. I got all the bolts off the manifold but it is being tough. Hope I don't break it lol. I'm can't wait to finally carbon clean!
So thank you very much Humble! I love your channel and think you're a great dude!
VW 💕
Thank you so much, for showing us this video . I had learn a lot on this Volkswagen GTI intake manifold .
Incredibly informative. Appreciate your humbleness. Thanks a million from Miami.
Massive thank you for this video, helped me make sure I had all the right tools before I started! I was fortunate that my 2010 Skoda Octavia vRs didn't have the bracket.
Thank you guys for taking the time to do this!
So glad we could help. Please let us know if we can help with anything else.
Excellent video. It gave me the knowledge and confidence to successfully replace the manifold on my '13 CC.
That darn bracket had me flummoxed during disassembly. I removed the throttle body and the attached inlet pipe. This made everything about this job less frustrating even though it did add some time.
Props to you for being willing to work on these. I wouldn't touch that with a 10' pole, gonna stick with my GM LS engines, lol.
LOVE this video. Saved me tons and almost impressed my wife with my newly acquired mechanical skills. Did the work on a 2013 Tiguan with 120k miles and everything went freaking awesome, EXCEPT THAT FREAKING BRACKET. That took a few years off my life, I guarantee it. Mind you; I'm 6'1" and 260lbs. so fitting in spaces doesn't go very well with accessing things under the hood. But yeah, eff that bracket.
One problem that I'm having now that the job's done; my temperature gauge is now going from bone cold to normal operating temperature within minutes of startup or within one mile traveled. The gauge doesn't go any higher though. The car does not overheat. I took it to the dealer and had them check it out. They cleared all the old codes and such, drove it around and no new codes. Nothing. Nada. But the friggin' temperature gauge still jumps to high noon before I can get my seatbelt on.
Help?
that's been the case for my 2012 tiguan since the day i bought it.
THANK YOU!! Been looking for a DYI for the TSI intake forever.
Joe Sheffer Thank you so much for watching. Let us know if we can help with anything else.
I had to remove the intake to replace the water pump on my Tiguan. The video was very helpful and like others the hardest part was removing the bracket that holsd the TB to the engine block. I suppose that this is needed to help support the TB in order to not put all the weight on the intake bolts and stress them due to vibration. I found that getting the bolt back in was the hardest part. I completely removed the boost pipe as I was able to get under the car since it is a Tiguan. Also, removing bracket nut on the TB was easier to get underneath the car. I could not find a 1/4" drive 10mm triple square anywhere, only a 3/8". It is probably easier to get to the lower bracket bolt with a 1/4 drive and extension. The problem is the solid coolant pipes that run right in front of the triple square bolt which basically gives you no room to work. When I have to remove the intake again to do the carbon cleaning I might try and remove the solid coolant pipe to give me more room. I did clean the intake partitions since they were easy to remove and it seems that these were worse than the valves themselves at 78K miles. It really is a stupid design engineering wise as the could have accomplished supporting the TB much more easily.
Thanks for the video and good removal / install tips. Very helpful. Takes me 3 or 4 x your work rate but I got there in the end.
Amazing job explaining this quite complicated task
Thank you for the videos. I've been looking for good quality tutorial and how to replace VW parts for a long time. A much needed for VW owners. 2.0T TSI great engine!!. After seen your video I think that I will take my car to the dealer, it is a heck of a lot of work.
If you get a cold start error on log, it's COVERED under warranty to 120K miles for 2008-2010 my
Really appreciate the video. Replaced my partners inlet manifold for a VW Scirrocco TSI.
First ever ‘big’ job I’ve done and the video has been super helpful. We were quoted £1,500 for this fix, so opted to DIY.
That bracket was a massive pain and also had to remove the throttle body to access the triple square.
I found going next to the alternator to reach the triple square was the easiest route but darn…. that took ages to get to.
Car ran real rough as soon as I switched the car back on, but after a reset via VCDS, engine management light came off and is running smoothly.
Great videos and thank you again for posting.
I can get a manifold replaced and injector for £100 here uk in garage
Give me the garages number for that quote mate are put them straight money grabbing wankas lol
@@kylejesson1774damn, I’m based in South London so I guess prices are higher here than most places. Inlet manifold cost me £76 alone on Autodoc I also replaced all injectors which were £85 or so each. Dont even want to know how much VW would want for the OEM parts. Don’t see how anyone can get a 4x hour job done for £100 with/without parts anywhere in the country.
@@kylejesson1774 what place mate? I would book with them? Need mine done
I enjoy watching you take this apart 😆
Me too
Hi, I cannot thank you enough. Great instructions! Great details.
Thank you so much! You made an easy job that much easier! Great job guys.
Nice job Charles, allways very informative and precise, we apreciate Thanks !
Thank you for the video!!!! It is perfect and you can do it yourself!!!! Of course you have to had some knowledge before you get into this!!!! But your explanation is awesome
Keep doing what you do 🙌🏽. Best video ever. You’re a Great teacher
Yes sir
Thanks for this video. I was very nervous doing this my 1st time on a direct injection removing the intake manifold. I was very nervous pulling it out and seeing a couple of the injectors stuck. I did not replace the whole manifold I just simply needed to pull it out about an inch to replace the runner manifold center on the side beside the oil filter one of the bolts you could not access without pulling it out.
This video has saved me so much hassle and money but what a pain in the arse job to do. Mk6 gti left me at work 2 days ago smoke everywhere, misfiring I thought it blew up. Injectors only I had to do, on the side of the street, tho it would of really helped if you had the support Bracket removal as that is a migraine. Thanks again and great vid as it saved me a week's wait.
Haha I ripped my cts wires right off but found a connector at junkyard.but what's important is your video showed me where to splice yellow wire to!!!! THANK YOU!!!!
Which video shows you?
Well,I had to go through a few of the manifold removal.It wasn't something that was highlighted but more something I watched for and saw as he ( technician) was going through the steps.....I'm so sorry....but if I'm correct I think it was yellow wire on left.dont trust that though.
I love your videos...Thank you for taking the time!!
Thank you Charles and Paul I have a 2010 Volkswagen CC and I had a bad injector and the carbon buildup I had no idea how to take out the intake so I watched your video and you guys explain how to remove it step-by-step I came at the carbon buildup I replaced the injector the car runs like if I just drove it off the dealer it went well no problems the tools and the directions you guys explain was on the money so once again thank you guys are from now on I watch all your videos Volkswagen yeah!!!!!
how do you clean the carbon buildup?
Just an info about the tools.where can i get them and how much
Thank you for this tutorial, it is fantastic. I replaced my 50k miles '09 Passat manifold and also clean/decarb intake valves. Actually cleaning is the most time consuming part of the job, incredible how much carbonization sticks to intake valves.
Now P2015 fault has gone.
Some tips/comments:
1 - You really need a minimum 8 inch 1/4" extension. 3/8" does not reach lower T30s.
2 - That triple square nut extends the definition of inaccessible. Had to drain and disassemble the coolant line to get access.
3 - Did you say abyss when talking about the bottom of this engine? Perfect definition, have a lot of magnetic pick up tools.
4 - Lots of low pressure and misfire error codes due to empty high pressure fuel line when restarting. Just clear them after some miles. I also got low pressure alarm but noticed the fuel pressure sensor (below cylinder 2 intake) was misconnected.
Thanks from Brazil!!
Clovis Tanganelli Thanks for the feedback. We appreciate it.
+Clovis Tanganelli , what is an 8' 1/4" extension, can you please show me a link, I don't know where to find one. thanks
+kirkferentzrocks : I was trying to convert to british units but I really mean 200 mm long 1/4" square socket extension. www.tool-net.co.uk/p-398884/facom-r217-1-4-drive-200mm-extension.html.
3/8" drive sockets will not reach the lower T30 bolts, not enough clearance.
hey, all my drives are 3/8" , why is the 1/4" better? thanks
+kirkferentzrocks Look at the bolts he is removing at 14:45, they are difficult to access and my 3/8" drives are too big to fit the clearance. But before buying new tools just try yours, perhaps your tools can reach these bolts.
i had to replace replace a fuel injector and said heck lets just change them all got them at shopdap and the price was one of the best thabk you guys while i was there i decided to clean the intakes (really time comsuming) a challenging diy all and all thanks for the tutorial it help me a lot
Manuel Huerta the cleaning of the valves is what is stoping me from doing this DIY , saw a video of a guy using walnut shell that was fast .
Thanks for the advice on how to remount that bracket. Its been such a bear that i thought i was doing something wrong. Ill try it again and stick withit.
I'm so annoyed that I am barely seeing this video. I just recently took out the water pump on my 2014 VW CC w/ 50K miles on it and replaced it with the metal one you guys sell. I left the bracket on the intake manifold this time thinking it wouldn't do anything. Tell me why literally pulled the wired out of the coolant temp sensor from the water pump just like you mentioned in this video 😅. Thats what I get for trying to cut corners and save time and effort. Thank for the videos, though the water pump video you did was not exactly the same as my CC it did help A WHOLE lot. Thanks again.
excellent video, i will to do my self to replace the pressure fuel sensor and clean the inyectors
Great vid as normal from this guy.
Thanks for the video And your comment
Great video, thanks. Goes to show what is involved and an eye opener to the likelihood of a tech making a mistake. My mkv gti been super reliable. Never had any engine work done, except VW service. Never had any warning light. I was going to keep it forever... Looking at this video though.. hhmmm..
Thanks for the video. I'm a decent home wrench, but this took me far longer than the 4 hours suggested. A couple points: I had to remove the throttle body to get access and see the connections under the manifold. The triple square was very difficult. I finally succeeded with a short bit on a stubby ratchet with a folding handle. For the carbon, I picked it first, let the CRC soak overnight, which removed much of the gunk. The zip tie method didn't work for me as I couldn't keep the zipties in the chuck. I used small sections of red scotchbrite held with a long set of forceps to scrub the intake portion of the head and the front of the valve. Preinstall and then remove the throttle body screws to cut the threads prior to putting the intake on - this allows easier screw insertion later. Make sure the connector adjacent to the oil filter is connected before you place the intake into position - I had to redo the installation process. Have fun and savor beating the $1k labor bill.
Thanks for the vid. Another manifold replaced to clear 2015 code with your help. Some hints/approaches to that damned bracket is about all I would like to see added to this.
Great video....things are a bit different on my 2010 MK6 GTI. No bracket with the triple square driver. Had to move a few more charge tubes but still a great help in getting this swap done for a P2015 code.
Did this fix your code I just got the same code on my 2010 gti and it started idling rough
LOVE TO SEE A 2.0L TDI THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT FELLAS
Thank you so much for the diy, its was so helpfull
Awesome, I hope I never have to do this but it's great seeing how it's done.
Doesn’t seem too bad. I’ve done worse
Thanks a ton, huge help with my DIY carbon cleaning. One correction, the bottom bolt for the lower bracket is NOT 10mm Triple Square, but 9mm triple square.
Just took mine out on the 2013 Jetta turbo - 10mm.
Mine was a 10. Is it possible your squares were switched in the tool kit?
Great Video, not sure that i would have got this done without viewing it. That bracket is so buried that i thought someone had previously not replaced it. I had to remove the throttle body in situ to get access and even then it was restricted.👍
That's really great. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you.
Thanks. This video helped me out a lot
Just managed to get that support bracket in place. I just removed the coolant hoses blocking access and threaded the topside nut first loosely onto the manifold body, then the bottom was relatively easy with the hoses out of the way.
Half way done great help Thanks
21:02....that magical moment when you pulled that bracket out from underneath the manifold. The Eos required a male spline socket to remove.
Andrew Tyndall do you know what it’s call my car Doesn’t have that
I have this done twice already. Once for the recall and wanted 500 to clean carbon. I said no. Then hit 80000 and got cold start codes and dealer wanted 1600 dollars. Said no and drove to independent and got decarb done for 490. I like you as a mechanic but I sometimes wonder where they come up with these numbers. 1600 dollars is a mortgage payment and then some. I was told that it was a ten eleven hour job. The independent had it off and decarb in four hours. Car runs great again shifts smoother better gas mileage. The key was over 1000 dollars cheaper.
11 hour job, DAMN!!!!!
11 hours is a little excessive for this job.
DAP has great vids keep it up.
Well, I have done this job several times and because of that experience, I can now replace the manifold in less than 90 minutes. But that's irrelevant! Speed does not make a mechanic any better than another who is detail oriented because he does a QUALITY job! Sure it may save you money, but cutting corners and rushing the job just to save some money doesn't make sense. Adding a Carbon/Valve job to this project (I use a custom made VAG walnut shell blaster - for VW-Audi & Porsche autos) can easily run it into a full day gig, (especially if unknown variables and snags occur). Remember, QUALITY is in the details.
Dale Fluegel Dd.
Watching this makes me appreciate my LS motor so much more. I have to do this on my wife's car and hate it anytime I have to work on it. It always takes 4 times as long to don anything :(
Thank you so much for this video. This is my first time doing this job; I've been doing mainly axle-brakes area, this is my first bigger job, and you made a seemingly intimidating task very straightforward. I'm sure I'll be returning here for future repairs, cheers man
Thanks! Made my way through this pretty quick. Great video. This little engine is dumb!