302/351 Ford OE blocks - how to make them live even at 1000 hp
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- In this, episode 67 of PowerTec 10, DV looks into the problem of block breakage when making more than about 450 HP (302). These engines are cable of over 600 HP as an atmo motor and well over 2000 hp in turbo form.
Granted most of us won't be in the range of stratasferic turbo numbers but many potentially good build specs will put a 302 over 500 hp so we need to know how to make it good to 600 +. It's easier than you might suppose because the blocks don't break for quite the reasons you may think!
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The guy knows what he’s talking about.
My little turbo 306 inch SBF has been at he 540+ RWHP for over 14 years with hundreds of trans brake launches at the drag strip. The block crankshaft and connecting rods are 100% OEM FOMOCO. The devil is in the details.
This sounds a lot like the issue Cosworth had with their 4cyl before they went to v6. With windsors i've always run a girdle.
Several things I'd like to add (if I may!), at the 600+ power level, it's a good idea to convert from external balance, to internal balance. This reduces the harmonic forces considerably!
With external balance, you have the weights at each end of the crank. At high RPMs and high loads (nitrous and forced induction) those weights tend to "whip" the crank lengthwise which causes more stress on the already thin main webbing.
So not only does the crank have the vibration and torsional twist that it normally has, then it's got that whipping effect along its length also.
Converting it to internal balance eliminates those weights and brings everything much closer to center....like very close to the main cap bolts, which is the strongest place in all of the block!
By eliminating the whipping effect, you're eliminating the very force that is trying to wiggle the main caps back and forth.
Along with the block mods that Mr. Vizard is showing, one could have a 1000 hp stock block that could live all day.
Thankyou David 😊 your are a wealth of valuable knowledge, sharing your life's experiences should keep the knowledge of you and everyone you've learnt with alive for ever, true gentleman
I've seen loads of guys with broken small blocks from nos turbos etc. I don't trust any stock sb past about 500 to 600 hp.
Why go through all this work when you can just get a 351 Windsor and be done. Once I had my first 351 Windsor I will never go back to a 302 ever again. I buy as many 351 Windsor and Cleveland blocks I can find and 429 and 460 blocks also
I was wondering your opinion on main girdles. Would a good steel girdle work on a 2 bolt main Chevy? My theory is that locking the main caps together significantly reduces cap walk and controls vibration better than going to 4 bolt mains. Plus a girdle is a lot less than a 4 bolt main conversion. Am I close? Thanks for sharing!
What about a girdle on a late roller cam 4 bolt SBC? I've heard DV say, "Those things are rubbish."
Well I've got one and I want to make sure it lives.
Problem with this idea guys is. You put all the money and effort into what he's saying and you should have started with a thicker stronger aftermarket block.
Bloodviking, master engine builder
I split two 302 blocks ( both were late 80’s ) and that was only at 500ish HP, I fixed it by going with a dart block, motor now’s runs happily with a little more boost at 645 Hp and it’s still together after countless passes, and is street driven.
I know this man knows his stuff, and If i ever build another SB ford I will come back to re watch this.
I’ve got a 1989 mustang with the stock block that came in the car and it’s been running 600 wheel horsepower for the last 15 years and 30,000 miles using a Paxton blower with a TKO 600 transmission behind it the motor is fully built but that stock block is there and hanging in just great
Edit: yes she’s main girdled and been through the machine shop for a stage two race prep
Put it on a video. Make a believer out of us.
@@jesse75 doesn’t matter to me one way or another whether you believe me I know I’ve got it sitting downstairs in my garage right next to my Evo1 what you do think or have doesn’t matter one bit. I have zero interest of wasting my time making and editing a video to post it to TH-cam. I was merely making a statement about the quality of some of the blocks that came in those cars and the fact that they will take a lot more than the Internet says but like I said if you don’t believe me I don’t care. Cheers🤘😎🤘
@@600wheel very good line of excuses.
Simple to make a video and post it.
You can spend years going to college/Uni to learn these things. DV is the teacher using his decades of experience. Experience, practical, LISTENING and talking to those who have been down that road far outstrips any other method of learning.
This guy is a guru
David got a question. Just how beneficial is it using 351 Cleveland heads on a small block 289/302 ? Back in my day I always played with small block fords. Sm Chevy had a hard time with my mustang. I ported my own early cast heads and built eng.loose.. rev like a sowing machine. Best key to Ford it must breathe.
Thanks DV for another excellent SBF video!
When planning the engine build for my '85 Foxbody, I looked at all the mods that can be done to my stock 5.0 roller block for strengthening and longevity. I also considered the cost to do it AND also the cost of all the parts that I was putting into the block.
(Callies crank & rods, Mahle pistons, coated bearings, custom grind roller cam)
After considering all the pros/cons of using my OEM 5.0 roller block, I decided to 'bite the bullet' and buy a Dart 8.2" SHP block with a 4.125" bore. (helps unshroud the AFR 195 valves and gives me 6.0 liters!)
It did cost more to build it with the Dart block, but I was already putting a LOT of money into the engine.
Now I can sleep at night with a truly bulletproof 363cid SBF.
The big bore Dart block is my fantasy build.
Id love to get my hands on that block and correct pistons……it does 6.0 liters on the stock 3.00” stroke crankshaft?………that extra liter is solely obtained by a .125” overbore?? What is the price on one of those fancy blocks??…….or would a bored and stroked 351 into a 427 be cheaper??
@@trentdawg2832
Dart SHP 8.2" deck blocks come with 4.125" bore.
3.00" crank in a Dart block = 321 cid engine.
3.25" crank in a Dart block makes a wicked screamer 347 cid engine. (vs. OEM 4.03" bore block with a 3.40" crank 347)
3.40" crank in a Dart block makes the bad boy 363 cid engine.
550 HP/500 TRQ easy....without winding it up past 6,600 rpm.
600+ if you want to cam it and push it over 7,000 rpm.
Dart SHP 8.2" blocks were $2,200....now I think they are $2,500.
I waited close to a year to get mine because of COVID shutdowns and delays.
A 9.5" deck 351W block is definitely stronger than an OEM Ford 8.2" roller block.
I wanted a Dart SHP 8.2" deck block so that all my 5.0 accessories bolted right up and I could make it look like a mildly modded 5.0 engine....heh heh heh
🤫😁
Smart man.
If I were doing a stock block. Half the water jacket filled with hard block, screw in freeze/soft plugs, and stud girdle.
There is always so much to be learned from this channel. Thank you, David.
Hopefully this isnt the cam vid 🤣😅 just kidding DV😁👍 Cant wait to see this vid.
I don't have what it takes to get a block machined like that, but if I did I would save and buy a better one to begin with.
That is the real trouble with pushing stuff this hard, you rarely come out ahead after the machine shop bill is paid. I'd rather just build a bigger milder motor if at all possible, cut the weight in places it's cheaper to do so. Still neat to see crazy power out of a short deck windsor though.
I had a 69 boss 429 block & the main caps would still walk even though it was for bolt maine 546 ci with 300 hp N.O.S shot Still had chatter and main cap walking problems Then I was lucky enough to find a new S.V.O 460 block $1200 Problem solved I sold that engine to a friend of mine who in turn sold that block for $ 8000 Somebody was looking for a numbers matching block. And they were willing to pay that much just for the block. The block had been bored out to the max. And they still bought it
I’ve enjoyed reading his books through the years and really enjoy getting to actually listen to him.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,there's a video of him doing an engine seminar ; when he was young ,,,,,[on u-tube],,,,,,,,,a long vid,,,,,,for true DV fans.................YOUNG is KEY......
Engine plate will help on splitting the block for a fact
Some Forgotten History... Ford cast a new 351w 9.2" deck sbf xe race block in 1966 (XE 93532) which got to just over 400CI in 1969 for Can-Am racing. This is were the later "351C" got most its spec's from when B knudsen pushed his own "Oldsland" inspired version through screwing up the 351W blocks development... goo gle "351w xe block" for more info.
This idea is really not wise to begin with. David admitted he destroyed loads of factory blocks. It's just better to go with a stronger 429 or 460 block. A 302 factory block is not worth the effort as you will want to get more hp out of the engine later on and will be at the limit of the block. Why set yourself up for failure. And the work involved and the disappointment from an engine that you are waiting for it to let go after every high hp run.
Or you can do the research and build to the power required. More power spend more money.
Very informative video David.
Thanks for sharing the information.
I have used the steel girdles with no issues.
Important to line Hone when changing to studs and girdles, IMO.
I like the looks of the aluminum girdle.
Thanks again.
Take care, Ed.
No production casting 302 block after 1975 is going to live at 4 digit power levels. Dart, World Products, Ford Motorsport block, OK. *Maybe* a C9 "Hecho en Mexico" casting, *maybe* . No way is an E casting block living at even 800 hp.
lots of amusing comments here criticising anyone who builds a hot 322, like why bother. Maybe because they want to see how far they can go? Anyway it's cool to get an old school engine performing, particularly in it's original car. And not everyone races straight line or has to win.
Most racers know all the tricks.
Block fill
Steel caps
Stud girdle
Valley brace
Arp studs
Morning David . I have just bought your book “ Port and flow test “ ive not read it cover to cover but what I have read is very interesting .
I have a question ,I have a race car ( Formula Vee 1300 ) we Have to use a restrictor plate ( 36mm hole ) on the induction side . We are using Weber 40s ( IDF ) and everyone bolts the carb directly onto the restrictor plate .
I have watched many of your videos on TH-cam, based on that I think the restrictor plate should be nearer the intake port ! valve seat is 31mm in diam with a valve head diam 33.1 . Standard port is cast 28ish diam although the inlet port ( Siamese ) is a mess .
I seem to recall you saying there is no point in having a bigger inlet port than the valve ? ( hope I remember correctly ) if this is the case would it be more efficient to taper the inlet manifold from “40mm”at the carb down to 31mm where it bolts to the inlet port ?
Is there an optimum taper / length for best port velocity ? Motors run about 100BHP cam comes in about 4500RPM and tops out at 7500RPM however there are guys on the grid that rev to a little over 8000 and have significantly more power so I know there is more to be had .
Great videos , very informative I only wish I was in the states so I could attend one of your seminars . Regards Andy ( UK )
Do you ship your block to them or buy one of theirs to get the bessel main caps
Your secrets are safe with me!!!! Priceless knowledge and I thank you
Not Déjà vu this time.. excellent 👍
The 302 and 351w blocks really aren't comparable in terms of strength though, as the 351w blocks can already handle much more power than any 302 block.
didn't he say that at the start of the video.....
Yet they still commonly crack in the front cam bearing area on the roller blocks.... Waste of money on a big hp set up to use a stock roller block prepped like that or not unless your going after some stupid record or required by class rules. It's not if it will break, it's when.
@@nothanks81get a ford racing block with 4 bolt mains
Yeah 351w to me is maxed at 750-800hp 302 is closer to 500-550 if you want it to live. In the end if you want to be sure just get a Dart SHP and never look back. Seen a lot of 600+ stock block 302 but eventually after a few seasons they split. The main caps tend to start fretting with high rpm and high hp. Studs help to a point but it is what it is. Stiffer block and beefier main caps are the eventual solution.
@@Bacongrease00been building 302’s for 20+ years never had one crack now because of the internet apparently they all do 😂 some BS
Awesome tips & tricks not to mention the Supliers / Builders / and or modifiers. Thanks.
,,,,,,,,,,,David , you need to put all your SBF building knowledge into a book.......The books out there were published decades ago .....and no better than a service manual.......Imagine a Dart block with Jay's cap mods and the rest................three stage nitrous capability.........mega money !!!!!!!!!.
Having built a couple of 5.0 versions of a 302 to 3.4" stroke the Ford machining is quite good and the black and crank seems to better metalurgy than the early 70s engines which in the distant past I have also built.
The oiling needs for the oil out and oil in need to be modified, and radius the corners in the top of the block, Screw in plugs too are nice. And fix the oil returns to the pan. Inadequate factory.
The stud girdles are essential on stock blocks and caps. Alloy ones are not ideal as they expand differnt than a 1/4" steel one. ARP studs are a given. Having had issues with Clevo lumps pulling the block out of shape with 1/2 studs it seems the 7/16 is probably superior. Always enough on a Chev!! Grouting to the welch plugs is essential. I do like the idea of reinforcing the vally as you have done. My current engine is using a forged 3.4"Scat crank, the iron ones flex too much on a big power engine. Though perfectly ok for a nice street engine. And ofcourse Scat 5.4" rods. AND I am using CHI 208CC Windsor modded Clevo heads. So the best part of 600 hp is expected. N.A ofcourse,, hair dryers are for girls!! Road race engine. Which must be a production block. Though it seems a Supercar SVO block is ok!!. Though not by the rules. And there is none available anyway!! Solid roller cam, agressive but not super agressive. And the block is bored only .010 with custom pistons for the heads.Nothing is top dollar stuff but everything should be fine for half hour max races. And 7500rpm.
Though for all the Ford tragics, yes you can get good power out of a baby 8.2 deck engine. But it will never be a Chev. Though is smaller and lighter. But the Chev is smaller and lighter than a 9.2 or 9.5" block
Interestingly I know of a Boss 302 style engine [3" stroke'] that turned over 8000 in a speedway sedan for many years. Power was adequate and the car was fairly light. [Pantera]
The other thing too,, 302W firing order breaks engines, 5 litre uses Clevo firing order that saves engines
I remember Kemps GT350R late 289ci Windsor turning 8.400rpm going 184 mph it was fastest thing on the track B production cars had no chance neither did A production that included aluminum 427ci corvettes dusted by a 289ci small block Ford. I’ll take a SBF anyday not very many people know how to really build one the man in this video does tho. I’ll take a Ford over sbc anyday
What intake manifold ?
I ran super stock with a 65 fairlane years ago 4 speed jerico 9" 633 rear gear .The rules mandated stock crank heads etc. that 289 .020 over saw 8500/9000 rpm every race and held together .
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Where's the foundation of history for this claim [ 302w f. o. , breaks engines ; 5.0 with cleveland f. o. that saves engines.] Must be some road racing gargle........state some facts as to why,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
David I have several of your books and recently discovered your videos. I'm curious if you ever done any work with Pontiac engines ?
I always had a thought that the girdle design should not only tie the main caps together but mount to the oil pan surface all the way around the block as one large piece
Very good at sharing your connections with other professionals.
David never works with cadillac 500 blocks and engines. Why. It has great advantages over other blocks.
Bloodviking
Dave I'm kind of worried now I got a 1972 302 block 60 over stock rod stock crank Speed Pro Pistons 220 dome 0.613 lift solid roller camshaft 264 /264 at 0. 50, AFR 205 renegade head 58CC chamber I believe that the 2.08 valve intake 1.60 exhaust Victor Junior intake Holley 750 double pumper 4000 stall torque converter trans brake c4 transmission 9-inch rear with a 4.57 I could go on and on with all the stuff I have but the point is is my car making too much power for that block any information would be helpful thank you
In diesel engine world like Cummins ISX engine caps will wear into the block. They have ring dowel that fix fit block and cap but they still vibrate under load. The fix using gasket eliminator to keep oil out of mating surfaces. Reason oil help caps to move which wears the block. Paccar engine main and rod caps are fractured there's no movement with them
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Diesel block tech is the place to learn , for further knowledge.......THANKS,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,will try that ; keepin oil out of the mating area surfaces...After all this TIME on this site ; I've got an arsenal of tech to jot into my journal of sbf needed mods...................NO Doubt , this would apply to connecting rod caps also , keepin that oil out......JUST a light smear will be sufficient , to fill the pores of the mating surfaces.......even the bearing inserts ; don't want bearing shells moving in place....Some guys pin bearing halves....And remember that stinkin used contaminated oil does not come out during oil drains and filter changes........If dirty oil can travel in , then it can travel out , thus contaminating fresh oil.....thanks again,,,..
That's alot of work to step that block.
On any engine build you need to watch for core shift
More so on a Chevy and easy to spot.
I'm wondering if the beloved Chevy small block can suffer these cracking issues with a big power increase? , or Chrysler small blocks? Also , I remember after I'd re painted my Hemi 6 cyl (Australian) motor it was noticeably quieter , I suppose because the extra thickness of paint dampened vibration.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,must ta been a hell of alot of paint...................
@@ThomasELeClair Three coats.
We don't use stk caps. Lol.
Bloodviking
Bulls***!!!!! I've seen him with 550-600 at the end of the quarter mile you stopped to get your ticket and your oil pressure drops to zero rev it up a little bit comes back you're on your way to breaking the block in half.
It’s all about proper machine work when prepping a block.
By the time and cost you get it machined you can buy a racing block
Bloodviking
Im interested in hearing more about this concrete in the water jackets..🤔
Harmonics are an issue, even the 4 cylinder BDT that they tried to use in F1 had a similar thing going on....
Does sustained high-revs do these in, like 7+ thousand for extended periods??
These builds are making an engine survive on the ragged edge of failure. Why waste time money effort into something that is going to fail after a few runs, or you are waiting on failure. You can't enjoy it then.
Bloodviking
The Mexican block 351ws in my experience are much better than the American ones. A few years ago a friend had a 427w stroker on his '89 fox mustang, PRW main belt, H cranks etc, he was running 11 lows, upon reaching 10.70, if anything 2 passes, the block snapped in half, never I use nitro. Curiously, they had just given me a block 351 (Made in Mexico) year 89, I conditioned it and put it together, the car ran constant at 10.70 at the beginning, then we improved the suspension and removed the c6 trans and put a powerglide with transnbrake. The car improved and was running steady at 10 lows, many passes and finally we decided to use a 175hp sohot nitro. The car ran 9.40 many times...finally after 4 years of banging on the street and track a metal from a conrod failed causing one of the conrods to break and destroy the main mount and hit the block. . When I took it apart to see the damage, I was surprised that if the block had not been hit by the broken connecting rod, everything else was in place. the block did not fail at all.
Great video thank you
Thanks David, I've been a fan of your content since the 90's when I purchased your "How to Build Horsepower" book, that's when I started to understand how things work. Thanks for a lifetime of knowledge, Steve
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,same here........................................................................................
Thanks again for your knowledge, hope you had a great Christmas and wishing you and your loved ones a great and prosperous New Year
Thank you David!! Again you have provided comprehensive and undeniably reliable positive expert information!
Thanks for all things SBF 👍
Fascinating! Thank you Mr. Vizard!
Was the 2 bolt converted to a 4 bolt at the end of the video?
Cementing isn't a new thing . The valley try is also not new . Seen both of those before
No way a late model 302 is going to live at 1000hp.
Blocks split in the valley often david
Cadillac blocks can take loads of boost , or nitrous
Nice to know 🤙🏼
Can’t wait for the 3000hp turbo big block!
Yea right! I don't know if I can buy that!
@@stevenbelue5496 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,look up Riding with AlexTaylor u-tube,,,,,Her father built a twin turbo 540 that makes 3000 hp......he also built the Drag and Drive car ; a 6 second beast ; watch the videos of the car on the strip.......hooks like on rails ; mind blowing.............
What's a buck car. He wrote it.
Great information! I hope to see and learn any info on .460 ford
Interesting in your videos how you take something that best describe above my pay grade and break it down and explain from start to finish. Thank you
The amount of money converting a factory block to 4 bolt, upper "girdle", main girdle etc.. you might as well just get a nice dart and go 4.125 without issue....
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Even a Dart block can benefit from the girdles vibration damping effects.................................
The four bolt mains are a good idea. Is there enough meat in the block to splay the outer bolts? I've heard that the splayed caps on Chevy small blocks are stronger than the factory four bolt items.
These looked splayed to a degree. It's always something like harmonic issues that keep people scratching their heads.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,TRUE........................................
Prw griddle for my sbc didn't fit without cutting and welding and the hardware was apparently a lead alloy nut, straight garbage in my opinion.
Steel beats aluminum
Great information, it would be cool to see the revised block perform 👍
Excellent video sir
Amazing info, as always!
302 caps walk
Have you noticed less head gasket issues with the girdle? I've been told that the head gasket issues with higher power 302 builds is caused by the block itself flexing under the heads, and that was getting near the point of block failure.
I’m not sure about the girdle affecting the block deck, but reading through The Turbo Forums some people have had gasket issues with the 302 due to using the thinner deck GT40 cylinder head and getting flex issues. Head studs definitely help, as well as a more durable head gasket, or machining a O-Ring into the head.
Thank you David!
Why would you even consider building a stock OEM Windsor block to some ridiculous power? That block is a thin wall component and just will NOT handle that power level. Or at least not for long. Cast crank ??, main caps too light duty ?? By the time you get done with machine work and high buck specialty parts (steel crank, cross bolting, and so on) you have surpassed the cost as well as the reliability of a Dart or similar after market item. Limit to 400 or so Hp with few good parts and machining and you have a good street and occasional strip engine.
How about a 351 worked to 366 with comp ratio 9.83:1 stroke 3.600" bore 4.030" what do think
Dave what are your thoughts on 1965 289 HP. ? Are they any good? My Tbucket has one in it now.
How did he get 525ci from a stock 454 production block? I thought 498ci was about max out
4.5 stroke plus large overbore. The bore is easy, 4.5 crank in a genV block is a fair bit of grinding!
Why bother 460 gets too 557 no problem
@@jondahl3173 can you fit a 4.5 stroke in a gen 5? I haven't seen a mark 4 that could accept the 4.375
How about a 3 valve F head engine? Should get the best breathing, and high RPM?
So how does the wind age tray fit in all these mods?
Hencho en mehico, junk
When we built engines to take this kind of power id say keep it at a lower rpm. Fill the block part way with filler. Run a plate mount, run splayed main caps. Use a stud girdle, and keep rpms under 7000.
I like that engine plate idea. Running that on my 427 FE. Never stop to think it adds strength too.
Try 1000 hp on a stock 4 bolt sbc
9:50 I remember someone reinforcing the lifter valley on a Buick 455 with metal and epoxy for the Engine Masters challenge. It made good power too.
NM I replayed it and it was fine
Missing alot of audio
David is certainly one of the best in the business. Having said that there is NO OEM block that will take 1000hp ever and that includes the original boss block. This is with every possible strengthening mod done to them. When exceeding the 450-500hp mark, move to an aftermarket block.
If DV says they will hold they will hold of you do as he says.
😂😂 do you think they all just explode at 500
Thanks DV
Cap walk.....
525 bbc... 2500-3000 hp....woooooooooooah nelly i wanna hear more!
Hard to believe, even with DV saying it
I think the word you were looking for was "earmarks".
Also, in the video side note @3:52, you state: "our super low buck car" - "beat the previous years champ's pro-built car" - Now come on DV, you don't really think anyone watching this doesn't already see you as a "Pro" in this area, do you? Your car may very well be a "low buck" car, but it was built by a pro, none the less (or at lease had guidance from a pro). I'm not insulting you, just an observation from the outside (actual non-pro) World!
Mexican blocks were never said to be stronger
If it is a mains issue I have a solution, I've been designing a system that can be used on any engine that will strengthen the mains using only two bolts per cap. It has been used before in some very high end super cars but I'm sort of retro fitting the idea to other engine designs.
Also with mains girdles, I have used an aluminium one on a Holden 304 stroked to a 355, it stopped a conrod dead in its tracks when it dropped a valve. It only had a bend in the girdle, Pavtek in Melbourne Australia made the Holden one I had fitted.
Well let us know mate. The Barra boys will luv ya.
Core shift is also a concern. Sonic check the block and don't over bore it.
Can't wait to see how vizard makes this possible! A 302 roller making 1000hp reliably? Mabe a modern 5.0, I've split a 93 302 completely in half making less than 600
Your obviously doing something wrong! You have to understand the physics of the engine! And then the harmonics that are one of the main keys to making reliant power at the level! Look at Gale Banks! His ethos is similar to David’s. Remove restrictions, dampen harmonics and the engine will inevitably make more power and live longer!
@@robertreavley7145 yes, Gale is like DV , never competing in classes where there is real competition.
@@V8Lenny So you're saying consulting for F1 and Nascar teams means DV has never been where their is real competition.............
Lol it’s not hp that splits blocks it’s bad harmonics vibrations Amd poor tuning
Cuz you did something wrong poor balance work crap harmonic balancer poor tuning etc.