5.0L FORD BLOCK SPLITTING-FACT OR FICTION?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- FULL 5.0L FORD RESULTS. DOES IT REALLY SPLIT AT 500 HP? IF NOT, WHAT IS THE REAL NUMBER? IS IT POWER? IS IT TORQUE? IS IT DETONATION? CHECK OUT THIS VIDEO WHERE WE RAN 10 DIFFERENT 5.0L COMBOS AT OVER 500 HP USING NITROUS, BLOWERS AND TURBOS. PLUS STORIES ON MY OWN SUPERCHARGED 5.0L RUN AT WOT FOR 32 MINUTES-DID I EVER HAVE A 5.0L BLOCK SPLIT?
I built and refreshed a .040 over 289 for a guy years ago. Every year his budget got bigger, but he wouldn't have a 302 or 351. Cast crank, side ground and shot peened stock rods with 5/16 ARP rod bolts. Got the compression up past 12.5 -1, roller cam etc. I begged him to keep it under 6500 rpm. Engine lasted 2-1/2 years until the stock oil pump drive broke at around 7800 rpm. Replaced the crank and 2 rods. Back at the track in 6 days. Car still has same block today, 38 years later.
Do you still build engines? Wanna rebuild mine?
I love it bro. A 289 gets up there quick with proper balance. Pure music 👍. And that is coming from a Chevy guy.
@osp80 Ehhh, not by much. If you're looking to go that way there's a run of 70's Mexican windsor blocks that were done in a high-nickel cast iron.
@@hondatech5000 7m cranks are forged and all those main caps help keep the crank from deforming, were you running a stock turbo?
An old 289 is not a cost cutting 5.0 HO. The 289 is stronger.
I saw a 600hp+ 347 stroker split. The crank was in great shape after the failure and was measured to be over 100g out of balance. With the short deck, I think it is because of high RPM without having an internally balanced rotating assembly.
I have read and think it's the balancing aswell, too much external pressure and vibration for the thin lifter valley
Yeah I have to agree internal balancing is important for higher HP
Glad to see all this ford content, building a 347 for my little 84 flareside right now and wanting about 500 hp
LS crap was getting boring
honestly, a shit ton of hp isnt worth it on the street imo.
@@frigglebiscuit7484 I dunno, my 650 hp 12 valve is quite fun.
Proper tuning is a big factor. My Incon twin turbo system on a basically stock 306 on 12 psi was 513 at the wheels. Had a Crane 2031 and kept the shifts below 6500. Ran this setup for 6 years and thousands of miles. Then sold the car.....the current owner is still driving it with the same setup.
As a seasoned engine builder, I've seen the 302's hold together very well if tuned properly. Improper timing, incomplete combustions events, or improper parts will destroy an engine. Nitrous kits have come a long way in the last 20 years. Most racers had kits that were just "smacking" the engine with 150hp or 250hp kits. Progressive Nitrous controller was a great addition to the drag racing world. I have actually seen these blocks crack or split completely. Great video
WFO for 32 minutes!? Dude you are a hero :-)
Since the block cracked during street testing, it was probably a fuel octane issue that caused detonation which transferred those harmonics to the crank and cracked the block.
Stock roller block 347, 260ish 670 lift mechanical roller, ported Canfields, 200 shot..... Ran mid 9s in a small tire Ranger. Engine lasted about a year before the factory block cracked from the mains up to the cam tunnel. Didn't hurt anything else. We put all the parts in a new FMS Boss block and its been good for many yrs now.
I think it's torque and tuning has a big part of it. My buddy has one with 650 horsepower stock block and he launches that car at 5,000 RPMs with slicks and it won't die. He does have AR fasteners in the bottom end and the head studs. You should do more ford videos
I want to be upfront the engine combo I had was never on a Dyno. I had a customer that wanted to run 5's in the ⅛. His combo ran consistent 6.13's. I used his 302 XXX block TFS High ports single plane intake with a .780 lift cam. This combo ran 5.40's down to low 5.30's. It kept cracking the block in the lifter valley just enough to put water in the oil. The engine was in an 88 GT hatch back. We cracked 3 blocks before moving everything over to the a cobra R block. I did not know about 302's cracking until then. It still never "split" the block
Mid 1990's cog driven experimental VT made number of runs at around 700 before splitting at the mains when the driver decided to ignore the builder to park it because it was showing signs of failure. Ford 6.9 Diesels would do the same thing with a Banks Sidewinder turbo system, the blocks are strong but fatigue failures will happen.
I believe it’s all in the tune. Just like when you have too much timing in the middle of the curve on a gen 3 ls and bend the rods. When the motor is loaded, you are likely to hurt parts. Add that timing back at the top and let her rip.
Yep timing is key for it to live
"The internet isn't always accurate" that should be in the Bible or something. Maybe in the Pledge of Allegiance, or the National Anthem.
It is in the bible.
I think it’s weakness of the valley webbing or lack thereof, combined with casting flaw at the foundry. And yes, saw this from pictures that were shared...before digital cameras were mainstream.
Fords aren't the only ones. I work at the remanufacturer that does GM'S stuff. In the early 90's I uncrated a 403 Olds core that was split just like that. I don't know what the magic number is, but I think the weak point is the oil gallies between the mains and the cam. Fords are pretty big, so were the Olds. In a sbc they're small comparatively. This is in an area where the pistons and rods are trying out tear the block in half.A side oiler is the answer in my opinion.
Olds 403s (and later 350s) had extremely thin mains with holes in them (aka the "windowed mains".) They were somewhat reputed for it. Kind of a shame really 403CI in a small block would have made them popular for build ups otherwise I suspect.
Pfft 403 olds
I just recently watched a roots blown 351W split right down the middle! And it was still idling, although rough, after the split. The mounts and the accessories held it together!! But once unbolted it was absolutely two inline 4 cylinders with a common crank!!
From what I have seen and heard from the real world experience around these engines. It seems to me the magic split is likely due to lean out detonation, (or a similar shock event) combined with a weaker webbing cast.
When you catch the cracking early you can see it starts from the main bearings and walks up to the cam.
I have heard of guys doing sonic testing on the webbing and being able to pick out a block that will fail at the 600 number. But that may just be myth.
The only stock block 302 I have ever seen split was a factory stock bottom end...balance and blueprinting are key....the block is a very strong piece
The time and effort that goes into these videos is insane!
In my experience splitting diesel blocks it is always from excessive cylinder pressure, that can come from multiple things, big torque setups, shock load causing a spike, or just plain more boost or drive pressure and fuel than the thing can stand. Another often over looked contributor is valve spring pressure. Very heavy valve springs for high rpm applications particularly roller ones can add literally tons of force to the block. On a set of springs that goes 1000lbs over the nose you have roughly 4000lbs of force on the block at all times and that force increases by a factor of 4 and oscillates while the engine is running its bad stuff. Lightweight valve trains for the win if you want stuff to live!!
Bcbloco2 : you're right . too m
Much torque at low speed . high cyl lbs at low speed and or detonation . pressure spike . not rpm . move the power peak up and imho I think they will live longer😁
I literally asked him to do this yesterday and what do i see today? A test! Thanks richard! Now if you could only find me a real parker funnelweb lol.
Need one? I have one.
@@geoffdickerson9395, Yes, price?
It's my understanding that it's main cap movement. And eventually the crank hits the main bulkhead.
I was driving my brother's 89 Mustang when it decided to split on me. It wasn't a radical combo. It was making mid-400s to the wheels with a procharger D1 (we are at 6k ft elevation). But it was cog driven with the pulley hanging WAY off the front of the crank with the tensioner cranked down pretty hard. It also had a manual valve body Lentech AOD that shifted fairly hard. So it's safe to say the crankshaft was loaded pretty hard, in thrust from the torque converter and laterally from the supercharger. It split on me at somewhere between 6000-6500 RPM on the upshift. At that RPM it really scattered.
We have a chassis dyno and have dynoed a ton of these motors going back to 1999 with many making way more power than this and this is the only one I've seen split in person. I personally blame block splits on loading the crank in thrust from making a lot of power into a torque converter (or clutch pressure plate pushing on it) or something like a cranked down supercharger belt pulling very hard laterally on the crank snout.
Mechanical Resonance And Core Shift. Only Seen 1 Partially Split,90 Mustang Convertible,347 + 20lbs Boost And 2 yrs Of Low 10 and Hi 9 Sec Passes.And Street Driven Too.
I have 2 examples of how we have pushed stock 5.0l, I recently sold a 91 foxbody lx hatch 5spd car..sbe, e-cam, heavily ported "p" heads we street raced and strip raced the car on a 250 shot over 50 passes no melted plugs ..just good timing and good fuel..that car we sold...my buddy here local to me "Bakersfield area " has a sbe, stock can, stock "p" heads, stock intake, stock throttle body, threw a Mike's transmission AOD on 17lbs went 10.30's. And he also has I nitrous kit jetted at 75hp he sprays on top of the 17lbs now and again for over 3-4 years and many street and strip abuse...just know what your doing is all it takes
Bad block harmonics (not rotating assembly harmonics) under server load weakens the block. To long at a particular rpm where a block harmonic phase amplifies, this can happen during a burnout competition of use of a 2 speed trasmission or a clutched transmission where there is little change in rpm while under maximum load. Couple bad block harmonics with a bad batch of fuel and o-ringed heads, the block and heads will lift away from the crankcase.
My guess is detonation. I've been curious of your combination for a long time. Awesome! I run a stock block 347 w vortec s trim.
I have a theory that it could be related to the use of aftermarket head and main studs. At higher cyl pressures related higher HO and TQ a lot of people naturally go to a stuffed setup. Yes, the fasteners are higher yield strength and clamp load from higher torque values and fine threads on the nuts. But the added clamp load yields more internal strain in the block. I personally have a completely stock untouched bottom end 87 5.0 making 420hp at the wheels on nitrous and have hundreds of passes on it.....this is a GRM.$2k challenge build that's completed drag week, been road raced, autoXed and hit with more bottles of nitrous that I care to admit.. I know of cases where stock blocks have split at lower whp and wtq numbers with much more expensive builds including all the best fasteners....
I'm going to purchase a California smog legal 347 stroker from Cal Coast high performance. It will be going in my 1988 GT. The engine is forged everything, a smog legal cam, AFR 185 heads, ARP bolts throughout. I'll also be putting a brand new Kenne Bell 2.1 supercharger on top. It will bre methonal injected to keep the AIT lower. The major difference in the price is the Dart block, which is a $2100 option. I'm basically getting the block for insurance and the "myth" I also have to lose the stock T5 and swap in a Tremec T56 Magnum. I also already had a new rear end done. 31 spline Moser axles, a True Trac diff, FMS 3.73's, and the rest of the bearings, races, and seals replaced. Total cost of motor and tranny parts, $15000. For that much, couldn't I put a Gen 3 Coyote motor in? It's my mid life crisis car and I want to drive it a bit before it blows up. Everyone be safe.
This was a problem reported several years back before some the aftermarket blocks came out. It happened in very high hp motors. My guess is way over a thousand hp and it took repeated abuse to cause a failure. Didn’t happen in two or three pulls. Just repeating what I heard and read. One mfg I believe DSS Racing made a stud girdle for the bottom end that was supposed to help stabilize minimize harmonics in the bottom end. Blocks were prone to breaking (cracking) in the main web area, normally in or near main cap bolting. Better blocks are now being made for the small block fords by several manufacturers. Another problem was main cap walking around on these motors resulting in premature main cap and bearing failures. Like I said these were all very high hp motors operated over time. How much time. Don’t know. Perhaps DSS Racing can answer these questions for you. They were one of the first to market better blocks and a main stud girdle for the small block fords both 302 and 351 series.
Richard, see how far you can push a late model roller block on a safe tune, safe rpm limit before it gives and I guarantee you’ll break the internet! 👍
Cast is tough against Harmonics and power What you miss is block swelling and shrinking with heat .
a quick shut off or stall in heated moment would over heat realy quick .
or 1 side being heated and other side not would end it realy quick .
Because antifreeze runs through 1 side and flows back on other side
a shut off with fans running block goes over 300 degrees and quick fire up hitting one side with cooled antifreeze
all at once would cause it to shrink to fast for porous iron would snap the thinnest part of casting
and aluminum manifold being non swelling and holding 2 sides of block in fixed position kind of being a wedge effect.
water flows from the water pump to both sides of the block-not one then the other
@@richardholdener1727 heat would make sense snapping blocks in half in certain situations
i just heard about all the number 8 pistons melting because of hot spot in block
on new fords im thinking they are not gapped for boost and 16000 rpm of the flat plane crank Ford blocks are pretty tough
...I think it's the cast iron lottery. The casting lottery that happens when they make the block at the factory, since these motors were designed to run at around 250hp stock, so putting double that HP, your chances of splitting the block are exponential for that particular "bad" or "avg" casting*
Great video as always this gives me confidence with my turbo 5.0l plan to keep it under 6200rpm and eventually 10lbs of boost🤞🏿🤞🏿
I raced for 9 years from Englishtown NJ to Florida. Every Mustang had high 400s to over 500hp running NOS and Procharger superchargers and never cracked a damn block. I have heard people splitting their blocks but that was from overrevving from a missed shift or from heat.
I think it's detonation more than just power. I had one of the first D1 Procharger 12 rib kits on my 89 Fox stock block. It finally gave up after a year or so and 30ish passes with a stick shift. The block split right thru the cam bore and was visible in the lifter valley. After getting it put back together I realized I had a bad alternator which may have caused my already ragged edge fuel system to not deliver 100%. I remember hearing detonation before I popped the head gasket but couldn't get out of it quick enough to prevent it. Lesson learned, but I really think if those old engines had some means of knock control they would tolerate much higher power than we originally thought possible.
Had a couple twin turbo setups spit cam bearings, saw cracks in cam tunnel after teardown.
Metallurgy & casting tolerances. Core shift that occurs during casting process that makes the valley thickness thinner. Would be interesting to sonic test that area in a cracked block vs one of Richard's blocks that's been wailed on hard & see if there's any difference.
Then again, it could all be some fake Chevy fanboy conspiracy 😆
All the engine builders I have worked with over the years agree with your idea. It seems like it's a problem with how the main webbing gets cast.
I believe that circle track racing, especially NASCAR races is where the engine is up to high output so the block keeps flexing continuously is where these engines came apart, and the factorys had to develop special blocks to keep them together. I have seen 2 blocks with cracks in them at the machine shop in the 60s. One was a local guy with a dump truck with a sbc, so Rick got just him a car engine to replace it. Rick liked to Magnaflux things so that got found. Possibly marine engine conversions came apart. That is a place where the engines are at max output for long periods and the blocks flex rhythmically. You are well connected. Why don't you chase this origin down and make an article out of it. I'd love to read it.
HOT BEARING
IN A VACUUM/ then getting positive crank case pressure.
= BOOM just a hypothetical
The 302s were engineered and built for its standard stock application. Yes they make power when bad ass parts are applied. Some Joe shmmoo that's doesn't take his time will split block more often.
Some guys don't realize that. The highest power stock engines are either the cobra or explorer engines and.they last forever at those power and rpm levels. Twist the screws and start making more than double the stock power and stuff will start to break, nobody should be surprised.
Stock block 347 zero balanced completely forged rotating assembly. Victor jr heads and intake. I probably wasn’t making 500 horsepower. Block cracked right in the webbing. Don’t even know when it happened I just lost oil pressure because the cam bearings were able to walk out. It’s not a myth and LOTS of guys have experienced it. Mine had 1300 miles on it and maybe 15 passes.
Also the rotating assembly survived and was completely unharmed.
david vizard has a great video on this too. a few things can make a 289-302 block much stronger.
a boss or shp block made a lot more sense for marginal guys when they were $1750 or so and not $3000+.
Personally, I think that the weak point is the threaded holes for the spyder in a line along with the drain back holes in the lifter valley also lined up combined with sharp corners and a lack of fillet material giving a clear failure path. Deburring the holes would possibly help. The failure mechanism could be detonation, imbalance or any other anomaly looking for a relief path. I'm wondering if the failure rate also extends to the older flat tappet blocks?
I’m thankful for this channel
Rpm and harmonic balancer is what causes these blocks to come apart
I have my 95 cobra do 515hp and 492 trq to the wheels it has an on 3 performance turbo, 170 tf heads bullet custom grind cam 75 mm throttle body and 48lbs injectors..had it on for 4 years and still kicking.. I will go up in boost next summer..
From 1987 till 1995 (end of production for Mustang 5.0 blocks) The block where a bit weaker. They had a lower nickle content and more casting "flash" then earlier motors. That casting flash works as a stress riser. Mostly all of your cracks will start where there is excessive flash. For those that don't know what "Flash" is. It is where the two halves of the mold come together, and there is a small gap that allows molten metal to leak out.
The roller 5.0 debuted in '85 5 speed cars (E5AE block). They added 4 pounds of metal to beef up the '86 up E6SE/E7TE blocks (122lbs vs 126lbs).
oh funny finding this after just asking the obvious question... originally had an NA build.. ported E7 (took a very long time to do it best studying under Vizard) , ported truck intake with twin 61mm TB, lunati valvetrain.. was hoping for high 300s but stimulus told me to buy a rebuilt powerdyne with 6 psi pulley. Why not completely alter everything even after getting a custom chip tune for speed density. I plan to keep hypers but ive got a snow kit (water/meth)... also a T6 aluminum cap girdle and ARP studs. I did see back in 2006 there were the "valley girdle pro" and even Don Garlitts had a hand in valley girdles for Clevelands.. but they don't seem to really be a thing anymore? or people found the block just splits underneath them if it's going to go... but I guess they helped with twisted just as a cap girdle helps with walk and strengthening the webbing. I see people mentioning high octane ( via water meth ) how much can detonation contribute?
I’ve read that the block splits if you have a boosted 347 stroker. What the person said was that the longer stroke results in the rod angle being different, and when it comes up to the compression stroke, the combination of the rod angle and the boost causes the block to split.
I think it has everything to do with the balance job. Vibration is a killer. It was also suggested from a fellow dirt racer that high compression ratios would do it but, obviously if boosted blocks don't crack then....?
Id like to see an NA 5.0 Ford test, before and after, with the piston flip.
Joe Sherman claimed 15 hp and 15 lb/ft.
We were doing this in 292s back in 1962.
Probably casting, depends on what day of the week it was made. As stock, I will testify that the 302 was a solid motor. I worked as a lube tech during cash for cars. We drained the oil out and filled it with silicone. Chevy 350's and ford 302 ended up in parking lot demolition derbies because they wouldn't die with a quart of silicone instead of oil. Chrysler got pushed out the bay lol. We had to throw weights on the gas pedals because we ran out of time trying to kill them. We had to unfortunately, either way. Much love 302, and I don't like ford. But respect earned
My understand was poor production quality control. Some blocks did not get enough silica or not mixed properly. So some blocks would let go at 400 or 500 hp will others could take over 800 hp.
It's probably the bottom end movement at the main caps flexing.
Variation in the casting of the block.
I have split a stock 5.0 block. I built a 347 with a 500 shot and turned it 8400 . I believe they break due to rod angle and the instant power from drag racing
Older high nickel 302 and 351W hold up until around 700. Anything above that is a gamble. I have personally seen blocks split under high boost around 750 and there are TH-cam videos showing block split with multiple stages of nitrous on a already stout stroker in the estimated 7 range.
Thank you for putting that information out there. Great video! I've always thought that drag race environment is the hardest on vehicle's and equipment.
I had a 331 stroker forged internals stock block with girdles with 76mm turbo@25psi made 650 hp 630tq at wheels mustang dyno. Split the block after a few years
the 302 is a very good block but dont forget the very short stroke !!!! and large bore 4 inch exactly.....the 302 rev close 8000 rpm......
the production 5.0l 302 won't rev anywhere near 8000 rpm-no matter what the bore and stroke are
Your best and most "creative" answers will come from the Chevy crowd.
One guy I've heard mention it a few times on various MT shows is Mike Finnegan so maybe he can enlighten us as to why they split.
Finnegan was proven wrong thanks to the Rotson's boosted 5.0 lol
Zemmy 138 they turned it down in that episode right after it made over 500
@@zemmy1985 if they hadnt turned it down, i can guarantee it would have split, knowing roadkills insanity....
I have split many running a 347 with n351 heads putting 500hp. I haven't been able to keep a stock block together. BUT I'm running rpm up to 6500 rpm for several laps at a time.
Big Bang Stock Bottom 5.0!!!!
The 5.0 Ford has such a light rotating assembly that I have a hard time believing the block fails. But anything can be pushed to it's limit. I would say poor tuning on a really powerful engine would be the most likely to fail though.
Just seen a video showing a split block. You can clearly see it split where the oil galleries that feed the cam are. Not a lot of metal left to hold it together.
Myth. Balance of assembly. Pressure per cylinder (boosted application) same but NOS distribution. Also tune is highest key. Unless a 289’ 70s block, R block they split at the mains and spider crack the way up. Zero balance always preferred. Less radial under load the better longevity
Last year for the 289 was '68.
I think block failure/splitting is WAY more likely to occur when the engine is actually in a car and in particular, when the engine is in a drag car. This is due to the added forces transmitted to the engine from loading and unloading of the drivetrain during launch and/or power shifting a stick car. As such I kinda doubt that testing this on a dyno is an accurate duplication of the forces that are in affect that leads to most block failures. I think the “myth” of the 450-500 HP figure for stock 5.0 blocks derived mostly from Fox Mustangs in the 80’s. Many of which were stick cars ...
Yes and it'd be interesting to know how many split block cars were using solid engine mounts?
Ran a s$#can 306 for 4 years shooting 100 shot every pass. Had a set of ARP rod bolts but stock rods, pressed pin TRW powerforged pistons. JUNK!! Put it in a Street car for a guy I knew. Sold him the motor for $750!! Helped him set it up. Drove to track on drag radials. Run through and back in staging lanes back to back! Put it into a stick car and didn't hook up rev limiter, that finally got it!!!
I think it has to do with unseen cracks through the block and the motor can't handle the pressure of the boost or the amount of oil pressure the pump is putting out
I think it is a combination of poor tuning and excessive torque load at low rpm ( below 4000 rpm ). My brother split one and he doesn’t have a clue on tuning. Engine was supercharged with stock internals. Broke the block and crank.
I'm guessing it's torque and RPM and heat cycles all combined but that's just my guess at the beginning of the video... BTW the number I've always heard is over 600... never experienced it but never made over 600 either...
High oil temprature = thin oil = bering "knocks". Easy to get very high oil temprature with Turbo.
Detonation is probably the biggest killer, I've split 2, but were well over 600 hp.
They split from RPM in a chassis. Pushing hard. Keep it under 6k on boost and it can help.
I know this video is old but it is legit what I’ve come up to. A 302 block is a pile of shit for pretty much anything but being a original engine when you have 351 option
Their is a guy on Facebook with a stock 5.0 block at 850hp. He swears it's in the rpms. He keeps the rpms below 6500(maybe 6200) but he has a few living at this.
With the popularity of Roadkill, David Freiburger brings up block splitting every time his says Ford 5.0
I wanna 347 but im undecided on getting a dart 347 short block assembled or getting the scat 9000 stroker kit
If you look at the construction of the block, its really thin in the lifter galley and all the way through the middle over the crank line. i would think that if you so happen to get a block with a weaker casting than normal, it would crack all the way through, but would be highly unlikely for that to happen. filling the block does no strengthen the center of the block.
Can't say I've seen a Ford block split but I have seen the whole midsection of a sbc ripped apart. Catastrophic failure of the rotating parts caused that. Unless the casting has internal flaws, 5-600 hp shouldn't be an issue, of course it would be prudent to not miss any gears 💥
I've been watching your videos for months now and honestly I love the content, you take all of the myths and legends and thoughts and hypothesis and you debunk them if possible. I've been doing the same thing for about 10 years I just have not been making videos to prove it. The downside of this video specifically is that everybody has been saying that these blocks split in half at 500 at the wheel. Realistically that means that they're going to already be close to 600 at the crank. So that means you haven't proven much in this particular video in comparison to all of your other videos. Getting close to the 700 mark on the crank on engine dyno doesn't really disclaim much compared to getting close to six hundred on a wheel dyno. Many have been past 500 on an actual Dyno but nobody has really got past 600 at the wheels and nobody has kept over 500 at the wheels consistent and dependable. this video honestly doesn't prove much because we already know it's not a longevity thing and it's not a dependability thing it's a power Mark and that power Mark is 500 at the wheels for dependability and almost 600 as a Dyno queen. Everybody in the mustang scene knows that a stock 302 block will not remain dependable over 500 at the wheels and you have not proven otherwise with this particular video. I'm not trying to discredit you at this point just giving you the info from the actual mustang enthusiasts. Keep doing what you are doing, I love your Videos!
My nitrous 331 notchback fox with afr heads did 2.5years worth of passes at the track and a bunch of street miles... it ran a best of 8.83 on a 26in slick at Indianapolis RW park.. So you can tell it was making some serious steam.. It lasted through so any 300 shots of spray due to the progressive controller.. when you smack it with all that torque it will piss off a 2 bolt main block real quick.. gotta have proper timing and bring it in slower to make it work for you..
306 stock roller block split after 3yr.. twin turbo stock cam daily at 580whp& 660wtq...lots n lots of abuse but rpm all under 6k
I watched my friends 94 cobra with stick crank and block make 617ft lbs to the tires on 14lbs 3 years ago. It's still alive
Stock*
@@joshkeasler512 yea i believe them 93-94 cobras have good bottom ends
@@Artificial_Dopamine The '93-'95 Cobra used the same block & rotating assembly as GT/LX. '93 was the first year for the hypereutectic pistons (5.0 HO used forged from '85-'92). The difference between the 5.0 that came in the Cobra & reg 5.0 H.O. is in the top end: Cobras had GT40 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, Cobra specific intake, larger TB (65mm) and different cam.
Pretty good information here. I was told the same about the stock 5.0 block. Im rebuilding mine with a turbo. Was going to do a 427 but unfortunately my spinal cord tumor surgery I knew that wasnt going to happen, Soo Ill do a 5.0 with turbo for my custom ranger build..
Now you have me wondering what the magic number is for a studded 2 bolt main 350 block. Always heard 500ish hp , even from David Vizard.
Luv truck Nelson ran a 2 bolt forged 350 shortblock with unbalanced rotating assembly. chevy s10 blazer, turbo running low 9s with a cast crankshaft as well. I also have a customer that has a turbo-forged rotator stock block 350 in a Dodge Dart, running low 9s as well.
There's a big difference between a one-owner car such as Richard and one 5.0 bought off of Craigslist
I think the blocks breaking in half from what I have seen and from som big power channels on TH-cam the way they explain it is in a chassis you have the motor and transmission twisting .on an engine dyno you don’t get that kind of twist or that kind of jolt from the start it’s the power+twist in a chassis
In my opinion, 32 minutes at wot, i think it lacked lubrication. Oil starvation. It probably just stayed in the valve cover area.
that motor never got hurt-it survived 11 races at WOT
Richard Holdener guess it was a matter of time. But for what i know, those 5.0 take a hard ass beating whether its raced or used as a work horse.
Split my 5.0 turbo. 24psi with stock heads. It was an accident that most likely detonated. I make 437 at 11.5 psi
I’ve seen three split down the middle main caps and oil pan was the only thing holding it together even broke intake intake bolts, once on the starting line on a the stutter and trans brake making boost to launch and broke,and the other two running down the track making 15 psi of boost against a powerglide and a 4000 stall converter. I think it’s just fairly unpredictable, Or bad 80s and 90s castings
Pro charged 5.0 flexed enough to keep loosening the intake manifold, and when removing the Eagle rotating assembly, the oil pump had one ear cracked off... The engine had laid 570 hp on a wheel dyno..
BUT, my very good friend had bought an early Chevy truck that had a 307 swapped into it at some point, it ran poorly, but he did run it a few months, when swapping it out, we pulled the intake off and saw the heads spread apart from each other. The block was split through the cam bore and crank bore, pulled the mains and it was completely split.. stock dog 307... I know they had low nickel content , but c'mon man
The Internet was wrong? I'm only @1:07 let me wait and edit. Okay, I think it is going to be a lean condition with a lot of supercharged boost. @1:53 I continue. @5:05 Good Street engine. Okay, everytime Rich adds boost he giggles. @8:32 I'm shaking my head at why a 89 Mustang just smoked me. Okay, to answer what Rich asked to begin with, Why did the block split? I don't know. I've seen crazy N.O.S. added on the street and crazy boost back in the day from Grand Nationals, but never a cracked or even split in half bock. IMO? something was not right. Thanks, Rich.
Richard you are obviously using 5.0 blocks not the old 302.
The 3.0 inch cranks are different too.
To answer your question....
If she splits, get another pullout for $200 and go again. 👍👍
I have always thought that the power limit of the 5.0 has been a SYMPTOM of balance issues and SHOCK LOADING.
Rpm kills these engines. Had a 78mm turbo on a heads and cam 5.0 for years. Shifted at 6k
I'm guessing casting flaws. A lot of engines have casting flash at the seams. The casting flash is a common place for cracks to form. This is especially true in the lifter valley.
Did any of these motors have stud girdles? I was told once it was production quality/a bore not square with the crank centerline. I'm definitely gonna put some nitrous on my 347 now lol.
Great commenters in this thread. Stayed really professional. Very unlike TH-cam
agreed
Lack of balancing. At 4” 7 grams weighs 63 lbs @ 6000 RPM. As an example.
in my old job we hade a 635 whp and it had the record in a local track for having most pases in a event didn’t lose a race made 23 passes won the event and drove it back home witch was 1 hour away and it never broke what did broke was the super charger in a meet and we canceled the project do to funs but the engine is still good
Thanks a lot for that! I've been reluctant to push my motor very hard for just that reason. I'm running a rebuilt short block with an e-cam, ported stock heads, street heat intake and an on3 turbo kit. On 6 to 7 pounds it runs very well, but I think after watching this I might push it to 8 or 9 just to see how it responds. If I split it, I'll let you know. :)
good luck and let me know