That ain't no lie. Kinda feels like he's getting the short end of the stick on this deal. They ought to be giving him shutouts right and left and sending folks to his channel.
Yeah I just started watching his channel and I swear he's put more time on just the flow bench, not to mention the actual porting, than everyone else combined. He's crushing it!!!
@@jseal21 favors are supposed to be done and when a real favor is done recognition and reward is not necessary. If you do a favor and expect to be rewarded for it then you aren't doing any favors at all and you are probably doing it for the wrong reasons
I've read where a stock block Ford 302 with a dampening plate on the bottom end of the engine under the oil pan and dampening plate either wear the rocker arms go or wear the lifter Valley is at can't really remember but I think it was in hot rod magazine the guy said the dampening plates were to take the vibration out and to help change the frequency of the vibration so the stock block wouldn't crack and split as easily and they said it works.
Awesome David , bit by bit You are making The 318 Mission Impossible Project seem very Possible ! I believe your precise, accurate, conscientious, carefully thought out and hard work will be rewarded 😉👍 Love what You Do and How You Do It ! . . .so now I can do it too ! 👍😁♥️
We used to do a lot of this. The advent of the affordable decent aftermarket connecting rods put an end to it for the most part. It's only a worthwhile option if there's nothing aftermarket available. These days, for many engines, you can buy a set of rods for the cost of a set of ARP fasteners and reconditioning them.
You are the man! I listened to Your advice and put a bigger carb on My dual plane intake 70 🐐 goat engine and gained a lot of power, thanks for Your infinite wisdom!have a great 👍 day!
Knew an old lad that built some amazing engine's! Some of the fastest revving engines I've ever seen, still to this day! And all I know about his secrets was he spent an awful lotta time with the crank and rod's!!! Everyone around wanted an engine built by him, but only a few people ended up with one sadly to say.
David thank u for helping the kids I am a lucky parent that my son is doing real good ..bless u Mr visard ..I will use everything u have taught me over the years I have a few of your books and I apply everything in them from a grateful dad thanks again David ...take care
dude just wow i started watching this with bad ideas well financially bad haha the moment u said 2 to 3 grams off the counterweight sold sold sold i do not care how long this endevour takes me but i will now be lightening a 4.0L ford inline 6 there know to rev to 7000rpm safely but if i can shave alot off the mass wow just wow especially the stock rods edit: up and coming australia based tuner / engine builder / engineer i will be awaiting every video thank you so much
It’s a blessing that you are doing a video on stock rod prep for power because I am at the moment thinking about how to upgrade the rods in my PSI 8.8L (535ci) industrial BBC. The crank is Kellog, rods are Scat pro-stock, and the unknown pistons are forged with short coated skirts, but I want to upgrade the rod bolts to L-19 for turbo application. So I’ll be paying close attention . Thank you for sharing your knowledge Mr. Vizard.
DV what you showed their is for sure some way cool stuff ,,, i never thought the weight saving of the push rods ,,, not ta mention what ya did to the rod cap ,,, you ALWAYS amaze me each and every day i watch ,,, you show and tell in great length,s on how to make things much better for us DIY guy,s ,,, THANKS so much for you doing what you do DV may god continue to BLESS YOU !!!
Just subscribed; I love seeing the 318 pushed to its limits, then seeing those limits pushed further. Thanks for doing this! Not going to hazard a guess on the conn rod weight reduction.
Dear Sir, regarding rods, wont aftermarket rods like Eagle and Scat not influence the lubrication of the cylinder walls? Original GM rods had oil thrower tabs on the outer side (crank side of the bearing pocket) most aftermarket rods have nothing? Will I need to modify the rods with oil channels or the crank before use?
@Mr. Vizard: Thank you! Will you show us in an next video, the one after you make the crankshaft lighter video, a video about lightening stock pistons? May be some material can be cut off or removed. And what not to cut off or remove! And with what kind of tools you will do (did) that (?). ...so we see the specific parts before, in between while working on it, and the result at the end. Thank you.
Hi David thanx for this fantastic video for us old timers,everything you said i experienced the same way,i refuse to change my a14 datsun engine on electronic,because i get the same results with a modified distributer and ignition system with condenser and points in modified way,which i would like to discuss privately with you as this took me years to accomplish,the best reason ,i can fix it on the side of the road if it breaks down,dont need a towtruck,would just like to take the oppertunity to thank you for all the no bs videos and for proper knowledge shared with us,you are a remarkable engineer and race car builder,thank you so much , Regards Nick
Most of this information I probably wouldn't use, but makes it easier for me to understand a lot of things that were just a given, useualy buy parts and put them in, all the best to yous and your loved ones
DV, would it be cheating to use stock LS valve springs on this build, since they are a beehive design and very light, and can use a much smaller, lighter retainer? And how about LS-style 8mm valve stems?? Those stock 3/8ths stems are HEAVY!
You mentioned the weight of the push rods. If the heads are clipped and the block decked, you will also have to use shorter push rods, which should be lighter, too. Nice tips keep them coming.
So glad to find this channel. Your book on porting has helped me significantly. I built a floating flowbench as you described in your book, and it's helped me tremendously. My guess on the weight would be 43 grams lost in total.
Taking weight from the end of the pendulum, you will have to most effect on your effectiveness of reciprocal mass. I have done this on Ford FE rods for years with the stock rods and ARP bolts using stretch on the bolts. I have never broken one at 1.5 hp per ci.
Mr. Vizard. Thank you for giving a small amount of knowledge to the masses. I do have a guess for the total weight reduction on the rods. My guess is 200 grams.
Prior videos i guessed 44.4g lightened for the small end and beam, i figure another 44.4 g on the big end for a new total of 88.8g off the rod. Thanks!
Another thing to consider: If you reduce the weight of the rotating assembly, the shock loading of the driveline will be reduced. And that can improve reliability.
Isn't stiffness determined by cross section and Young's modulus? And, Young's modulus isn't much different between 4340 and 1015, is it? So stiffness of the pushrods in bending is determined more by the moment of inertia than any material changes. This is usually very hard to explain to non-engineers. So as an engineer, please explain why the pushrod material makes a whole lot of difference in stiffness. Best Regards, Rich
Great content. I will lighten rods for big fours on the street (think Ford/Lima 2.5L). By removing weight from the small end, polishing beams and using a lighter piston there is a noticeable improvement in smoothness. I leave the big ends alone (rotating weight). No dynamic balancing, just static weight match.
You can easily balance the rods (and whole piston-pin-rod-bearing assemblies) at home with straightforward big-end / small end measurements but you also still need to spin balance the crank or at least know how to measure out the bobweight spec needed to send just the crank out and have a shop balance your crank for you instead of giving them the whole rotating assembly to balance or if you want interchangeability between engines or spares, etc...
3:35 intro, 3min outro, lighten your vids 35%, save humanity days of wasted life, the other 65%, very informative and applicable. Headline question "What's a race prep on a stock rod worth?" you offhandedly answered 7-10hp on the drag strip. For someone who focuses on specifics and testing, 7-10 for your headline came across like a guess.
Thanks David. I don’t believe you mentioned, or maybe I missed it, are those rods steel or cast iron? If they’re cast iron I bet you lost about 150 to 175 grams, if they’re steel I’m willing to bet more like 225 to 250 grams.
The grinding around the rod bolt. If using stock pistons or stock replacement’s, this should not be done. But with a lighter piston, this can be done. Do I have this right.
I question for a high performance daily driver is all the effort worth it? I can see where in a race application that isn't seeing high mileage and requires durability concerns. Is doing this on a balanced and blueprinted LS motor worth the effort for a daily driver truck application? Seems like a lot of effort for anything that isn't full blown race application with higher rpm demand
I'd guess about 80 grams per rod taken off, give or take maybe a dozen grams. that adds up quickly when you take into consideration the amount you can take off the crank.
After I polished the beams of my Mopar 273 connecting rods to a smooth, shiny surface (back in the 1970's), I sent them out for shot-peening. When I received them back, I noticed the surface was no longer smooth, but more like sand paper. At the time, I thought the shot-peening was a way to "strengthen" the rods. Now I'm not sure because Mr. Vizard hasn't even mentioned that procedure (shot-peening, that is).
Shot peening is a process of strengthening the material near the surface by peening or hammering the cells of metal to make contact with all the adjacent cells. The idea being a stronger lattice. Made tons of factory rods into race rods, bushing for full float, loosing weight light he's doing here, then stress relieve, and shot peen. Today a process called kryo treating is done to bring the metal to such cold state as to allow the cells throughout to make complete and better bond and then slowly normalize. The teams for baja to nascar all do this. Expensive but when the purse is a million or so. They do it on all the hard parts from ring gears to piston pins and locks.
It doesn't strengthen them as such, but does make them more resistant to fatigue failure by setting up beneficial residual compressive stresses in the surface of the rod.
4 oz out of the rotating weight will drop lap times on a road race course more than 100 pound out of the car. 5 grams off each of the small ends on a V8 will gain the same as 4 oz off the rotating. Most people do not understand how much reducing the Reciprocating weight will gain them which is because many fail to come to the realization that the piston stops and then is accelerated 2 times every revolution and how much easier it is to accelerate less weight.
Great video David, question sir, with increased lightening, is there anyway to address the issues of difficult starting off the line with a manual transmission? Meaning reduced flywheel affect, this is similar to using a very light flywheel. I’m all for Any benefits,, but can you do All of this with a street motor, and still have reasonable take off in first gear? Race motors this isn’t really an issue. Thanks again.
Yeah, as long as you run a stock flywheel I’d imagine the difference would be negligible, but definitely wouldn’t try running a lightweight flywheel on this motor it would be a dog off the line with a clutch
@@turkeyboyjh1 so how much do clutch assemblies weigh? How much do torque converters full of oil weigh? Dynos are run with flex plates and dyno couplings.
Excellent thank you. You told almost all.. that mean you share knowledge - legacy but can mean also this is end era of internal combustion engine. and everything they drag behind them! goes down in history, which is a great loss! :D 20-30 years ago I could have killed for this data!
I can’t believe how quickly this went off the rails. Mission Impossible was supposed to be 1HP per cubic inch using all stock parts but “massaging” them.
Rod big end weight loss, I will say 118 grams. After all these mods are you planning a stress relieving and or hardening process? There is going to be a more measurable change in the torque both it's length and curve as compared to a similarly configured engine without removing rotating mass. HP is a mathematical product of torque and torque wins races. Assuming your chassis guy can actually put it to good use.
The early 273 and 318 rods are around 720 grams, vs 760 grams of the later rods. Edit: for a long time in 340 builds people would switch to the lighter rod and have the rotating assembly reballannced.
A rod is made weaker with those pads removed. Sure it might not fail 5oday but in the future. At least use a 4340 rod if you want to do this. You may have to drill holes in the crank now that the rods are lighter. When a rod is thrust upward that balance pad adds strength to the lower rod cap. Taking it away isn't a great idea. A fatigued rod is not worth messing with.
if ur talking budget i will stick to what do i get the 4 inch stroke 454 with steel crank, heavy rods, high flow heads got 4 last year with 6,000 to 58,000 miles on them with a 02xx trans for free with radiator twin electric fans serpentine belt oil cooler trans cooler power steering cooler then if u get a good after market intake and a big carb they come alive and u can not beat the look of a big block
You forgot to add higher compression pistons and the largest intake valves you can fit. Stock BBC's usually come with horrible compression ratios that leave a low VE and nowhere near enough intake valve to feed all the cubes.
@@earlbrown high flow heads can put out more then 800 hp and the engines have 10.5 to 1 compression then they all came with the 02xx trans which is good to 800 hp stock
more: investigate: " Does the modulus of elasticity change due to heat treatment? " "researchgate" has some info P.S it's very cool these videos are being uploaded! I remember reading these books as a kid.
It's there so you can balance the rods and pistons. Standard process would be to find the lightest rod+piston in the set you got for the engine, and grind the 'massive lump' on the others to get it to the same weight. As an aside, usually there is one on each end of the rod, because the bottom of the rod is rotating mass while the top of the rod is (along with the wrist pin and piston) reciprocating mass.
Dont forget to give charlie more credit, been watching his videos on the heads and intake and hes been working around the clock for the build.
That ain't no lie. Kinda feels like he's getting the short end of the stick on this deal. They ought to be giving him shutouts right and left and sending folks to his channel.
Yeah I just started watching his channel and I swear he's put more time on just the flow bench, not to mention the actual porting, than everyone else combined. He's crushing it!!!
🔔😎Each man is spending hours and hours on this. NOBODY is sandbagging.
The rest of the team is getting these videos processed, which takes time too.
@@jseal21
Really? No kidding?
Who else is porting heads and manifolds?
Grinding rods doesn't require a flow bench. SMH
@@jseal21 favors are supposed to be done and when a real favor is done recognition and reward is not necessary. If you do a favor and expect to be rewarded for it then you aren't doing any favors at all and you are probably doing it for the wrong reasons
I've read where a stock block Ford 302 with a dampening plate on the bottom end of the engine under the oil pan and dampening plate either wear the rocker arms go or wear the lifter Valley is at can't really remember but I think it was in hot rod magazine the guy said the dampening plates were to take the vibration out and to help change the frequency of the vibration so the stock block wouldn't crack and split as easily and they said it works.
Awesome David , bit by bit You are making The 318 Mission Impossible Project seem very Possible !
I believe your precise, accurate, conscientious, carefully thought out and hard work will be rewarded 😉👍
Love what You Do and How You Do It ! . . .so now I can do it too ! 👍😁♥️
Two years have passed and no progress whatsoever. I hope DV lives to be 120 so this impossible project gets completed
We used to do a lot of this.
The advent of the affordable decent aftermarket connecting rods put an end to it for the most part.
It's only a worthwhile option if there's nothing aftermarket available.
These days, for many engines, you can buy a set of rods for the cost of a set of ARP fasteners and reconditioning them.
WOW! First time I saw DV was in Hot Rod magazine back in mid 80's. Think the cover said "750 HP nitrous build" was for a 350 small block Chevy.
You are the man! I listened to Your advice and put a bigger carb on My dual plane intake 70 🐐 goat engine and gained a lot of power, thanks for Your infinite wisdom!have a great 👍 day!
it's always a pleasure to hear history`s and explanations from our Professor Vizard, Best regards from Brazil!
Glad to see this channel growing!!
Me too!
Awesome that you are doing this for the children. I already give monthly to St.Jude and I encourage everyone to also.
The children will be dead from old age before this project ever gets completed
Knew an old lad that built some amazing engine's! Some of the fastest revving engines I've ever seen, still to this day! And all I know about his secrets was he spent an awful lotta time with the crank and rod's!!! Everyone around wanted an engine built by him, but only a few people ended up with one sadly to say.
Thanks David what you teach always makes sense. I lost 96 lbs. and I certainly move in a far more efficient manner and feel great.
Good for you, hell yeah!
That's perfect. I'm doing the same myself and can agree that it is a MUCH better way to be.
St. Judes is a great charity. I’ve been donating for over 30 years. Great video. Great work. God bless you
Awesome presentation, looking forward to future lessons.
David thank u for helping the kids I am a lucky parent that my son is doing real good ..bless u Mr visard ..I will use everything u have taught me over the years I have a few of your books and I apply everything in them from a grateful dad thanks again David ...take care
Thanks
dude just wow i started watching this with bad ideas well financially bad haha
the moment u said 2 to 3 grams off the counterweight sold sold sold
i do not care how long this endevour takes me but i will now be lightening a 4.0L ford inline 6
there know to rev to 7000rpm safely but if i can shave alot off the mass wow just wow especially the stock rods
edit: up and coming australia based tuner / engine builder / engineer i will be awaiting every video
thank you so much
Thanks!
Thank you for this information on rods I have preform some of the Lightning techniques but I did learn new tech
Thank You David for sharing your knowledge...
✌😎❤
Thank you for teaching about saving weight over building and not planning well. Thank you sir. I am learning from each video
Thanks David! My guess is the cap has been lightened by 4 grams.
Thanks again for your expert advice!!!!
I can safely say, the weight that I shaved of my pontiac rods, all 8 combine equaled the weight of 1 rod. I love your viedos.
Polishing the beams will help them live at rpm 😊...damn cast rods!
Guys a bloody legend and still shares all his knowledge thank you. Total legend and god of all performances engines.
But he is slower than molasses.
It’s a blessing that you are doing a video on stock rod prep for power because I am at the moment thinking about how to upgrade the rods in my PSI 8.8L (535ci) industrial BBC. The crank is Kellog, rods are Scat pro-stock, and the unknown pistons are forged with short coated skirts, but I want to upgrade the rod bolts to L-19 for turbo application. So I’ll be paying close attention . Thank you for sharing your knowledge Mr. Vizard.
DV what you showed their is for sure some way cool stuff ,,, i never thought the weight saving of the push rods ,,, not ta mention what ya did to the rod cap ,,, you ALWAYS amaze me each and every day i watch ,,, you show and tell in great length,s on how to make things much better for us DIY guy,s ,,, THANKS so much for you doing what you do DV may god continue to BLESS YOU !!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge... Great Build and Great Mission for St. Jude..... All the best.
Just subscribed; I love seeing the 318 pushed to its limits, then seeing those limits pushed further. Thanks for doing this! Not going to hazard a guess on the conn rod weight reduction.
I just want to say Thank you for the knowledge you share. It is priceless!
Dear Sir, regarding rods, wont aftermarket rods like Eagle and Scat not influence the lubrication of the cylinder walls? Original GM rods had oil thrower tabs on the outer side (crank side of the bearing pocket) most aftermarket rods have nothing? Will I need to modify the rods with oil channels or the crank before use?
I believe it is about 8 grams removed around the rod bolt area. I believe the total weight of the material around the bottom of the rod is 15 grams.
@Mr. Vizard: Thank you!
Will you show us in an next video, the one after you make the crankshaft lighter video, a video about lightening stock pistons? May be some material can be cut off or removed. And what not to cut off or remove!
And with what kind of tools you will do (did) that (?).
...so we see the specific parts before, in between while working on it, and the result at the end.
Thank you.
It will be a few more years before he gets around to the next step. Please be patient.
Man I learn something every video thanks David
great video! thank DV for the info. Rod weight difference is 114 grams lighter vs stock
Hi David thanx for this fantastic video for us old timers,everything you said i experienced the same way,i refuse to change my a14 datsun engine on electronic,because i get the same results with a modified distributer and ignition system with condenser and points in modified way,which i would like to discuss privately with you as this took me years to accomplish,the best reason ,i can fix it on the side of the road if it breaks down,dont need a towtruck,would just like to take the oppertunity to thank you for all the no bs videos and for proper knowledge shared with us,you are a remarkable engineer and race car builder,thank you so much ,
Regards
Nick
Most of this information I probably wouldn't use, but makes it easier for me to understand a lot of things that were just a given, useualy buy parts and put them in, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Id like to see how this would work on powdered mod engine rods (2v).
On the monthly plan with St Judes. Never miss the money. Very worthy cause!
DV, would it be cheating to use stock LS valve springs on this build, since they are a beehive design and very light, and can use a much smaller, lighter retainer? And how about LS-style 8mm valve stems?? Those stock 3/8ths stems are HEAVY!
You mentioned the weight of the push rods. If the heads are clipped and the block decked, you will also have to use shorter push rods, which should be lighter, too.
Nice tips keep them coming.
Yes, less spinning weight, fast spin , by product more power at end. Thank you sir
So glad to find this channel. Your book on porting has helped me significantly. I built a floating flowbench as you described in your book, and it's helped me tremendously. My guess on the weight would be 43 grams lost in total.
45gram litter is my guess
Taking weight from the end of the pendulum, you will have to most effect on your effectiveness of reciprocal mass. I have done this on Ford FE rods for years with the stock rods and ARP bolts using stretch on the bolts. I have never broken one at 1.5 hp per ci.
Mr. Vizard. Thank you for giving a small amount of knowledge to the masses. I do have a guess for the total weight reduction on the rods.
My guess is 200 grams.
Nice, and thank you for showing us options for our engine builds.
DV, I'm all in at 96 grams lighter per rod ...thanks again for another excellent video!
Great video's David! I think they will be about 76 grams lighter per rod.
Thanks David, I love this stuff!
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I would love to see this on a crankshaft as well
Prior videos i guessed 44.4g lightened for the small end and beam, i figure another 44.4 g on the big end for a new total of 88.8g off the rod. Thanks!
Another thing to consider: If you reduce the weight of the rotating assembly, the shock loading of the driveline will be reduced. And that can improve reliability.
Wow, really nice machining.
Keep bringing it David 👍
God bless you for your efforts in st.jude
With that large balance pad and bolt bosses lightened i think your going to lighten the cap about 125 grams
I'd guess it's 4.75% lighter per rod just doing the bolt holes or 13.5% lighter for all the lightening done per rod.
That rod sure looks pretty Dave.
Thank you as usual! 👍
Isn't stiffness determined by cross section and Young's modulus? And, Young's modulus isn't much different between 4340 and 1015, is it? So stiffness of the pushrods in bending is determined more by the moment of inertia than any material changes. This is usually very hard to explain to non-engineers. So as an engineer, please explain why the pushrod material makes a whole lot of difference in stiffness.
Best Regards,
Rich
I just went down a rabbit hole learning new stuff because of your comment. Thank you!
Can u show us how u was goin to make bottom of engine smoother and the bottom of clyinders u talked about please
Great info as always! Many thanks!
Great content. I will lighten rods for big fours on the street (think Ford/Lima 2.5L). By removing weight from the small end, polishing beams and using a lighter piston there is a noticeable improvement in smoothness. I leave the big ends alone (rotating weight). No dynamic balancing, just static weight match.
What is your opinion of Uncle Tony's theory of horse power gains by turning the piston's so the arrow point's to the rear of the block?
yea--what about the backwards pistons? any HP there??
He has spoken about it, and said it works. Engine masters tested it on their show, and it gained 1.5% power.
th-cam.com/video/sq1mPjRJBpM/w-d-xo.html
Ahhh! It’s over!! David. I am on the end of my set . Wow. I did not know you could chop that much off . How do you know is to much?
Can't wait to see how to home balance rod's at-home I did polish 360 rod's but I was afraid to touch the balance pads
You can easily balance the rods (and whole piston-pin-rod-bearing assemblies) at home with straightforward big-end / small end measurements but you also still need to spin balance the crank or at least know how to measure out the bobweight spec needed to send just the crank out and have a shop balance your crank for you instead of giving them the whole rotating assembly to balance or if you want interchangeability between engines or spares, etc...
You will be waiting awhile to see this project get completed. If you are under the age of 40, you may live long enough to see it run.
3:35 intro, 3min outro, lighten your vids 35%, save humanity days of wasted life, the other 65%, very informative and applicable. Headline question "What's a race prep on a stock rod worth?" you offhandedly answered 7-10hp on the drag strip. For someone who focuses on specifics and testing, 7-10 for your headline came across like a guess.
The artist at work 😊.
Thanks David. I don’t believe you mentioned, or maybe I missed it, are those rods steel or cast iron? If they’re cast iron I bet you lost about 150 to 175 grams, if they’re steel I’m willing to bet more like 225 to 250 grams.
Cast rods died a death long long ago. Only Pontiac was brave/silly enough to use them in a post 1960's V8!
The rod cap rediction about 100gm and total rod weight reduction 200gm.
I figured that the rod will have less wind resistance in the crankcase also.
The grinding around the rod bolt. If using stock pistons or stock replacement’s, this should not be done. But with a lighter piston, this can be done. Do I have this right.
I question for a high performance daily driver is all the effort worth it? I can see where in a race application that isn't seeing high mileage and requires durability concerns. Is doing this on a balanced and blueprinted LS motor worth the effort for a daily driver truck application? Seems like a lot of effort for anything that isn't full blown race application with higher rpm demand
I'd guess about 80 grams per rod taken off, give or take maybe a dozen grams. that adds up quickly when you take into consideration the amount you can take off the crank.
Beautiful work David, I'm guessing 35 grams.
David, can this process be used on an early 351W Ford rod? Will it yield the same strength gains?
After I polished the beams of my Mopar 273 connecting rods to a smooth, shiny surface (back in the 1970's), I sent them out for shot-peening. When I received them back, I noticed the surface was no longer smooth, but more like sand paper. At the time, I thought the shot-peening was a way to "strengthen" the rods. Now I'm not sure because Mr. Vizard hasn't even mentioned that procedure (shot-peening, that is).
Shot peening is a process of strengthening the material near the surface by peening or hammering the cells of metal to make contact with all the adjacent cells. The idea being a stronger lattice. Made tons of factory rods into race rods, bushing for full float, loosing weight light he's doing here, then stress relieve, and shot peen. Today a process called kryo treating is done to bring the metal to such cold state as to allow the cells throughout to make complete and better bond and then slowly normalize. The teams for baja to nascar all do this. Expensive but when the purse is a million or so. They do it on all the hard parts from ring gears to piston pins and locks.
It doesn't strengthen them as such, but does make them more resistant to fatigue failure by setting up beneficial residual compressive stresses in the surface of the rod.
4 oz out of the rotating weight will drop lap times on a road race course more than 100 pound out of the car.
5 grams off each of the small ends on a V8 will gain the same as 4 oz off the rotating.
Most people do not understand how much reducing the Reciprocating weight will gain them which is because many fail to come to the realization that the piston stops and then is accelerated 2 times every revolution and how much easier it is to accelerate less weight.
Great video David, question sir, with increased lightening, is there anyway to address the issues of difficult starting off the line with a manual transmission? Meaning reduced flywheel affect, this is similar to using a very light flywheel.
I’m all for Any benefits,, but can you do All of this with a street motor, and still have reasonable take off in first gear?
Race motors this isn’t really an issue.
Thanks again.
Yeah, as long as you run a stock flywheel I’d imagine the difference would be negligible, but definitely wouldn’t try running a lightweight flywheel on this motor it would be a dog off the line with a clutch
@@turkeyboyjh1 so how much do clutch assemblies weigh?
How much do torque converters full of oil weigh?
Dynos are run with flex plates and dyno couplings.
Is it possible to show how to balance crankshaft with new lighter pistons and upgraded rods?
Excellent thank you. You told almost all.. that mean you share knowledge - legacy but can mean also this is end era of internal combustion engine. and everything they drag behind them! goes down in history, which is a great loss! :D 20-30 years ago I could have killed for this data!
Will you have to add Mallory to the crank
Eager to see Casper rev!
To the rods and crank need to be balanced , with all the metal removed ?
72 g lighter per rod. Get some glyptal in those cases to further reduce 'windage'.
I can’t believe how quickly this went off the rails.
Mission Impossible was supposed to be 1HP per cubic inch using all stock parts but “massaging” them.
I agree. This definitely took a hard turn
What happened to this series? It just... stopped.
@@paulmryglod4802They named it Mission Impossible for a very good reason. It is impossible for him to complete this mission.
@robertellison4691 lol only one true to the name
Rod big end weight loss, I will say 118 grams. After all these mods are you planning a stress relieving and or hardening process? There is going to be a more measurable change in the torque both it's length and curve as compared to a similarly configured engine without removing rotating mass. HP is a mathematical product of torque and torque wins races. Assuming your chassis guy can actually put it to good use.
The early 273 and 318 rods are around 720 grams, vs 760 grams of the later rods.
Edit: for a long time in 340 builds people would switch to the lighter rod and have the rotating assembly reballannced.
I'm betting on 580
I’m sticking with 70g of lightening.
Excellent video as always Mr. Vizard!
I will go with 157 grams weight reduction please sir!!
Those 318s are top oilers so I guess there's no oil weight in the pushrods, right?
A rod is made weaker with those pads removed. Sure it might not fail 5oday but in the future. At least use a 4340 rod if you want to do this. You may have to drill holes in the crank now that the rods are lighter. When a rod is thrust upward that balance pad adds strength to the lower rod cap. Taking it away isn't a great idea. A fatigued rod is not worth messing with.
Great project
Too bad it will never be completed.
I'm guessing 108 gram reduction since both rod and cap had material removed.
Thank you sir
if ur talking budget i will stick to what do i get the 4 inch stroke 454 with steel crank, heavy rods, high flow heads got 4 last year with 6,000 to 58,000 miles on them with a 02xx trans for free with radiator twin electric fans serpentine belt oil cooler trans cooler power steering cooler then if u get a good after market intake and a big carb they come alive and u can not beat the look of a big block
You forgot to add higher compression pistons and the largest intake valves you can fit. Stock BBC's usually come with horrible compression ratios that leave a low VE and nowhere near enough intake valve to feed all the cubes.
@@earlbrown high flow heads can put out more then 800 hp and the engines have 10.5 to 1 compression then they all came with the 02xx trans which is good to 800 hp stock
I think my previous guess was a 17 gram reduction in weight, total. I need to go back and look, that might not be correct.
Dv I have a question I'd like to ask. Do intake runner lengths ( long or short) make the same difference if the engine is turbocharged
Yes, the intake manifold will do the same thing. The boost just adds to it.
@@michaelblacktree yeah that is what Richard holdener told me
more: investigate: " Does the modulus of elasticity change due to heat treatment? " "researchgate" has some info
P.S it's very cool these videos are being uploaded! I remember reading these books as a kid.
5:20 what is this massive lump for? Is this counterballance for something?
It's there so you can balance the rods and pistons. Standard process would be to find the lightest rod+piston in the set you got for the engine, and grind the 'massive lump' on the others to get it to the same weight.
As an aside, usually there is one on each end of the rod, because the bottom of the rod is rotating mass while the top of the rod is (along with the wrist pin and piston) reciprocating mass.
After the lightning up all the rods, should they be reheat treated for additional strength