unfortunately it's true. first smithed "s" hooks I sold was out of some 1/4" stock that had been buried behind a buds shop for 10 years and she loved them and had to have them all pitted to hell.
I watched it it was cute... I think Tony's plan is to attach the rabbit to the fly cutter and train the rabbit to eat grass from it so he can fly cut his lawn
@@eliworks8549 printing time lapses are entertaining. Watching all the structure being formed. Fun stuff. Now if more people would watch my video of a pseudoscorpion peeking out from a chanterelle mushroom that would be nice... maybe everyone is pretending not to be fascinated by him?
TOT needs the Hardness Standards table for the different grades and types of : Undrillium, Unobtainiaum, Toosoftium, Badstuffiaum. I'v got one SOMEWERE in my old Gerstner box.
My favorites - pulling the rabbit out of your butt, the flycutter causing an explosion, and the rabbit eating grass accompanied by threatening music. Tony, you never fail to surprise me! Oh - and the oven seemed to work pretty well, too.
@@DavidLindes I got one at a yard sale, works but I never use it, just a novelty piece I guess. You can find plenty at antique stores or eBay, they'll cost a pretty penny though
It’s the same reason cats always land on their feet and peanut butter toast lands sticky-side-down... unless you duct tape peanut butter toast to your cat. They you’ve achieved neutral buoyancy in air at sea level. Congratulations!!
I've been working as a knifemaker a few years back and we also used Argon to flush the chamber. From my experience there shouldn't be any damage to the surface layer at all. All we used to get was a thin matte grey oxide layer and no pitting to speak of. This was easily removed with a few strokes of 400-600 grit sandpaper. This layer would be tough but thin and you could still see the satin finish from before trough the oxide. I think time is of the essence here as the oxidation starts as soon as you open the oven door and the atmosphere disperses. Just move a bit quicker next time. Also I'd set a higher flow rate and maybe you should replace your oil as it seems to have a lot of gunk in it which immediately bakes onto the part as soon as it touches it. If you're not using proper quenching oil yet, try to get some that's specifically made for heat treating. I'd also stay away from Nitrogen and just use the Argon. With Nitrogen the oxide layer always seemed to be a lot harder to remove given the same parameters as with Argon. I can only guess but I think the outmost layer got partly nitrated in the process which may not be a wanted side effect...
This was my thought also. You could crank up argon flow right b4 you take the part out and have your oil right at the door. As an alternative I'm going to purge my shop with argon completely be for removing the tool from the oven. I love all your videos TOT. I'm feeling kinda sleepy, I think I'll take a nap in the shop.
@@alext.7313 AFAIK most tool steels do. When doing critical stuff we'd usually prewarm the oil to around 200°C. This also reduces warpage and probability of cracking.
@@joenicotera2991 Proper Nitration happens at 500-550°C, so at those high temperatures it's merely an uncontrolled side effect. When done properly your part shouldn't look hot forged at all but just have an even greyish coating all around. For the parts i usually do i can still fit precision ground pins to holes that were reamed at max. 0,01mm bigger without even cleaning them up. And no, a nitrated layer isn't always wanted, especially when you need your part (f.e. a knife) to conform to certain characteristics (e.g. toughness, brittleness, edge retention, etc.).
@@unr3al67 I can say that, to my experience heat treating a wide swath of different steels, it's close to 50-50. In fact there are many steels that want to air cool after hardened. To make it more interesting, some require some intense heat mapping to air quench properly. (Ie slow ramps down, weird stepped ramps with plateaus, etc...)
With this video, you increased the audience in this house to 3x its original level! My bunnies actually sat and watched the last two minutes without hopping away, now they want to know when they can have collet greens of their own.
@@philanderingwhitecollartra8281 Boomers are 60 and over now, I think you need glasses buddy. BTW this guy has a great YT channel, what have you accomplished in life, apart from getting RSI in both wrists from being a total wanker?
Good to see someone out there still using one of those vintage dot matrix 3D printers. I have an old coal fired printer from the late 1800's...it was a barn find...struck gold that day!
I've never machined anything in my life and probably never will. I still love this channel. I feel I'm learning things I can use later to tell other people that know more than me how they're wrong about machining but also I always come away smiling from these videos. Just thought I'd throw that in there among the pro's and machinist crowd talking shop.
The argon is heavier than air. It's leaking out of the oven through the steel casing and door. I recommend putting the oven door up if possible to reduce leaking. Otherwise increase purge cfh. Source: Professional pipe welder
@@froop2393 It sure as hell cools down quickly too... and transfers it's heat to the air causing air to become lighter... overall keep in mind the diffusion usually argon just like any other gas will just disperse in air and you will merely start suffocating because the concentration of Ar is Already to high in the whole room... besides Argon is already in the air, it is just that the concentration is very low... I'd just be sceptical and take every precaution possible, most importantly install an active ventilation system in your garage...
Why not change how the over is oriented? Like with the opening upwards, like a foundry. There is nothing preventing this aaaaand once it is filled with argon....it just stays there.
Like that old joke: A bear and a rabbit were taking a dump out in the woods. The bear asks the rabbit, "do you have problems with poo sticking to your fur?" The rabbit looks up and says, "uh, no, not really..." The bear wipes his butt with the rabbit and walks away.
Note that the bunny is on a scotchbrite pad. It takes some work, but you can eventually get through to the base white rabbit. Necessary to get a good surface finish for bluing, of course.
It's funny you mention a "rotating hot end" for a 3d printer that's actually something I've been working on for awhile now, specifically to allow different materials/nozzle sizes/ temps/etc. Basically a microscope end, just with E3D V6 hot ends instead of lenses.
@@benjaminwatkins7345 ya there are multiple ways to do it I just haven't seen one like what he is working on. And it is almost exactly what Tony describes.
Makertech3d sells a switching hotend but the reviews aren't that great - and the switching with that one is only on one plane. Repeatability and calibration is a huge hassle. There's some nice manually operated options though, xChange being the one that comes to mind first because it's a commercial product (kickstarter) but there are many opensource solutions on thingiverse and the like. For fully automatic toolchanging, the e3d toolchanger / jubilee3D seems to be state of the art atm. Their couplings are being ported to different platforms by the community. Also a hassle to set up and calibrate but very precise and repeatable.
Since argon is heavier than 'air', most of it is going to flow out of the oven as soon as you open the door. Nitrogen will take longer to do that (since the air is mostly nitrogen), so you may get better results with the other gas. Honestly, I've found that laying the oven on it's back with using gas helps the results, since opening the top doesn't let the purging gasses fall out onto the floor.
When we use nitrogen to inert vessels in the oil industry we apply the gas from the bottom and vent the oxygen from the top. You an always check this in your application by putting a lite Match into the vented gas to confirm you are getting no more oxygen in the vent stream. No we don't use this test method in our industrial applications
CNC engraving and backfill with grey... it would match the feet.. have it lurking in a shot somewhere for only the astute coinsures... only it will say "subscribe" for some reason..
Trust me, we are all much better off with him. That Other Old Tony is more frightening and creepy than the rabbit! (He has a goatee so you can tell he is the evil one.)
@@Hypercube9 are they covered with long point hairs ? for that variety also eats radiator hose's >can you imagine emerging from hunting camp hundreds of miles from a auto parts store ,and as cold as it might be , you have no coolant left ?
Many years ago I worked in my grandfather's tool & die shop and we would wrap the dies carefully in stainless-steel foil before they went in the oven for heat treating. They were still slightly discolored, but when they were unwrapped they had NOTHING like the scale I saw in the last video when the tool steel goes in naked. This argon mod is awesome, but the old folks knew how to get stuff done too.
I regularly use A2 and I either wrap them in stainless steel foil or bags. If I do it well they come out nice and bright. A2 is an air cooling material. I leave them in the bag and before tempering in the kitchen oven they are at 62 to 65 HRC
TOT's fingerprint removal tool at @10:22 made me cry from laughing so hard! I know it's almost a year later, but I STILL come back to watch this video for a laugh.
@@JohnADoe-pg1qk We took them, ages ago, and you're asking NOW? Really?!? Once we've replace those punny cats with one of ours? Really?!? We did ask for a reward too you know? But no one answered. So, we sold them to SIr SIc. ;)
The idea that technological innovation has taken an object that could be made of wood in 15 minutes to 27 hours, not including the design aspect. What a time to be alive.
Also you could have purchased a child's step stool and drilled or melted holes in it. BUT, it's not about the journey or destination, it's about buying more tools.
I used to have a habit of holding random bits of undercarriage while watching students working under cars. It was never a problem because they were working on school cars; longest they ever ran was the minute to get from the storage lot into the shop. Then one day I ducked under a _customer_ car, right off the road and, while leaning in - grabbed the cat. And that was my introduction to "incident reporting". Yay.
@@Azlehria About the cat. . . I wwas helping a friend remove a cat that had a hole in it and they were prying it while I was cutting it and all of a sudden SLAM! it came off and wack'd me up side the head.... That hopefully knocked some sense into or ouuta me lol... At least the install of the replacement wasn't a issue.
Believe it or not, I'm walkin' on air I never thought I could feel so free Flyin' away on a wing and a prayer Who could it be? Believe it or not it's just me
Those caddy's remind me of the ones the kids used to use for cleaning their teeth at the sink when they couldn't reach it... looking back I should have taken out the tools
0:46 learn to play with slicer settings and feed and speed Optimizing your head speed, extrusion hight, etc greatly helps print time as well as not sacrificing fidelity by increasing nozzle size Also you’re not gonna completely get rid of scale unless you’re going to keep it in a completely inert atmosphere including quenching but you’ve definitely helped a lot
The video is literally called "Noww, we're cooking WITH Argon" Peeps in the comments are suggesting "cooking Argon" which is NOT the same! smh... lol ;)
I really really appreciate you including all the things that seem to happen to me. Dull drill bits make you question whether you are doing something stupid. Mystery materials end up being incredibly hard to cut etc. This is me all the time.
Hi, fair warning: The E3Dv6 hotend used by the Prusa MK3/S is close to being flow rate limited (cubic mm of plastic extruded per second) for thicker layer heights even with the 0.4mm nozzle, so with larger nozzle sizes, that is the bottle neck and will prevent you from deriving a good chunk of the speed advantage you could be from larger nozzles. But I am very impatient and an instant gratification enthusiast (who isn't?) so here is how to get around that, and some other tricks to reducing print time by a few fold: 1. Get an E3D volcano hotend. It screws onto the Prusa heatbreak and uses the same heater cartridge and thermistor, so it is a drop-in compatible upgrade. You lose a few mm of print height and you'll need to print a fan nozzle adapter to lower the outlet slightly (there are literally dozens of these if you look for volacno prusa mk3 on thingiverse - and you can print fine for the most part without it anyway). You'll want to get some nozzles for it too - 0.2mm to 1.2mm sizes are available. More importantly, the Volcano increases your maximum flow rate by 2-3x, which for layer heights and wider nozzles will cut print time by a half or third. Just make sure you increase the 'maximum flow rate' setting in the filament settings in Prusa Slic3r. The settings included are tuned for the wimpier E3Dv6. I've been using a volcano exclusively for years and besides a mostly negligible z-height loss, there isn o downside. It's just better. 2. Strangely, I never see much about this trick online but its a vital knob one can tune for 3D printing: extrusion width. Meaning, you don't need 0.6mm nozzle or even an 0.8mm nozzle to print line widths that wide. The only true limitation with nozzle radius is layer height. You always have to print layers slightly thinner than the radius of the nozzle (so 0.35mm is the max for 0.4mm nozzle). But when it comes to extrusion WIDTH, you can generally print up to 250% the nozzle radius without problems. If you look at the nozzle, there is a flat surface where the filament bead comes out, and that feature limits the line width (as this surface is what flattens the bead as the print head does an extrusion move). So you can print 1mm line widths no problem with a stock 0.4mm nozzle, and often you can go slightly wider but you start getting into the tolerance territory for the width of that feature so above 250%, ymmv between nozzles. I like to print with 3-4 perimeters minimum for strength, so a way to get a ton of speed improvement with little to no detail loss is to increase the line width of solid infill, infill, and perimeters while leaving the external perimeter width the default 0.45mm or whatever it is. Also, using line widths 1.5 times the nozzle diameter and wider tends to improve layer adhesion, especially for certain filaments like polycarbonate. The bead has to spread out and is thus smooshed against the previous layer with more pressure, and it is heat AND pressure that increases layer adhesion. 3. Not a tip per see, just a caveat: you'll want to bump up the hotend temperature when printing at 20-25+mm/3 flow rates with the volcano. The rule of thumb I use for most filaments is increase print temperature by 3°C for every mm3/s of additional flow rate above 15mm3/s. So for 30mm3/s, this means 30-15=15mm3/s * 3 = 45°C. So for a print temp of 210°C, this results in 255°C. This probably sounds really high for PLA, but when you're ripping that sweet sweet lactic acid out at 30mm3/s and you can see the spool just spinning continuously, it won't seem that hot anymore. The filament is spending so little time in the hotend that it is never actually reaching that temperature, the extra temperature is to heat it up faster so it still hits in the ball park of the intended print temperature by the time it exists the nozzle. If all of this sounds like it might have a fairly serious negative impact on print quality.... it really doesn't. And you can really tweak these knobs without adjusting anything else and it really does generally just work. Obviously you will have the normal changes from thicker layers etc. but using these tricks won't really have an impact on quality beyond what you'd get anyway, and if for some reason you do, just back off the flow rate a little and you should be good to go. Final double secret tip: if you're really nuts, E3Dv6 also makes something called the Super Volcano that is also compatible with the MK3/S. You will lose a lot of Z height but I mean, its a hotend that is undeniably what you get when you take the thermal limitations of print speed to its logical conclusion. The nozzle size goes up to 1.75mm (so, literally the filament diameter lol) and, well, just look at them. If you need all the flow rate in your hotend, these nozzles will put it all up in your hotend. ALL UP IN IT: metacollin.com/s/hvOxXgoUR02s.png
10/10 Amazing video! I love the 2 minutes of rabbit cuteness at the end, all youtube videos should have that. But when will you give us a general update on the maho, instead of showing short zoomed in clips of it. You are my favorite youtuber, machinist, comedian and so much more. Keep up the good work.
Someone once told me the key to making being human easy is make your screw ups look like you planned them. You didn't run out of printing 'ink', you planned on two tone legs. In that vein, I went looking for drill stops by ordering shaft clamps. The secret to my research was I ordered a bunch of shaft clamps by the OD, thinking it was the ID. As I was putting away the much too small shaft clamps, I noticed just how much they looked like the set of 'drill stops' I had bought from China via eBay 4-5 years ago. What put a smile on my face was discovering the price of the shaft clamps was MUCH cheaper than even the drill stops when I compared the sizes in the set. I love it when a plan comes together; even when I had no plan. GeoD I bought the cheapest, single set screw, no split, Blk Oxide coated steel shaft clamps. You could go 'show boat', and buy SS shaft clamps.
I'm still wondering if he was being funny or did not know for real. I could not believe I actually knew what it was, considering I have about 0.5% of Tony's knowledge...
Tony, I'm a big fan, your my favorite you tuber. Being a heat treater from way back I could write a book about this video. I enjoyed it very much and I won't be nitpicky about the technical errors, I know it is all in good fun. By the way Nitrogen will not work as well as Argon. If you would like to hear more I'd love to talk about it, metaphorically speaking of course. I also have a great project for you if you could let me know how to submit it. It would be too long to put in this comment. Thanks for what you do.
Man... Out of all the infinite worlds out there in the multiverse, I'm really glad ThisOldTony decided to make these AMAZING videos and upload them to youtube! Thank you good sir for putting all the hard work on these videos full of useful information that are still incredibly hilarious!
Just a tip from someone who made a living from welding argon purged stainless steel piping and vessels. Always introduce argon from below and allow the air to vent out from the top. You get a much cleaner purge. You can get away with lower purge rates which saves argon costs as well.
I got the same results when I did this. Better than no argon but seemed like a waste of argon considering the results. I think the issue is most of the argon just leaks out the door. What I did that finally got really good results was to put the parts in a stainless box with a stainless foil over the top with a hole for your argon tube. You feed your argon tube into the box through the hole in the stainless foil. Since argon is heavier, it fills from the bottom and since the top is just covered with stainless foil, the pressure is vented at the top of the box. You don't need very much argon flow for this. You will need to make a handle point on the box so you can grab it with something safe. I welded a bar of stainless on the side of the box that I could grab with my tongs. You pull the argon tube, open the oven door, grab the box and put it on a fire proof surface and remove the foil top and remove the part for quench. The results are close to pro level. Do the quench quickly because as soon as you remove the part from the box, oxygen starts to attach. That is the only oxidation I got with this method.
Hey Tony, not to be 'that guy' but you know you can just make a 1 mm nozzle right? Could even be hardened steel! After all, what's the point of a home machine shop if not spending 6 hours on a $2 part :P (probably need a heater upgrade for that though, just FYI)
Just to be another kind of "that guy", be careful increasing nozzle sizes. Your hotend has a limit on extrusion rate, usually measured in mm^3/sec. Things like the Volcano hotend increase this limit. Not sure what your hotend is, but you can probably find the limit online and program your slicer to not exceed the max extrusion rate, but that will slow down the print again. There will be a point of diminishing returns without upgrading the hotend too.
@@samuraisystemsllc a second to this! I have a normal V6 hot end and a Volcano and I keep stumbling into the volumetric throughout limit on just a 0.8mm nozzle even on my volcano (I run speeds fairly high, its a 400x400mm bed after all).
Other people have tried that with smaller nozzles and ended up turning the nozzle into scrap. You also need a printer that can push that kind of volume into a larger diameter nozzle, otherwise you risk damaging other parts of the hot end.
I think its been said elsewhere in the comments, but for anyone that's interested in learning about 3d printers, the power output of your hot end DOES put a hard limit on the amount of filament you can push through your nozzle per second. At first glance, that makes it look like a big nozzle is pointless. The reason its not is because the printer only needs to dispense a certain amount of filament per inch, but it can't fly around corners in the print at top speed. Therefore, increasing the nozzle gives you lower print head speeds, meaning the head doesn't need to speed up and slow down for turns as much, so it runs closer to the maximum speed more of the time. (You also lose resolution though, so sometimes it's not an option. Holding out hope for that multi head attachment. Do it for the kids, Tony!)
Great video, like always. Maybe the source of the scaling is the transition between oven and the oil. I mean, once it leaves the oven it comes in contact with oxygen rich atmosphere, plus the flames when dipped in the oil suggest reaction with O2. Also the oil might be contaminated. Reducing the time by decreasing the distance to the oil and having something to grab it with prepared might help. Also, bubbling argon into the oil might ensure there´s no oxygen at least on the surface of the oil. Best of luck! :)
Aah, quality time in the garage can’t be beaten. I could do with a 3D printer mainly to make a replica of myself so that I can leave that at work and spend more quality time in the man cave! Thanks for the instalment. You know we love ‘em!
Holy heck that slaps! Never heard of them (maybe the name rings vague bells). But if this is representative, I'll be self-administering their catalog immediately via aural cavity.
Thank you for the rabbit eating, that was excellent. Be interesting to see if sitting the oven on its end so the door is at the top makes any difference, it would stop the argon spilling out any gap in the door.
Classic TOT as always. Maybe add a small hole at the top of the oven to allow the O2 laden air to escape as the argon flows in. I suspect that if the oven door is probably a close enough fit to prevent the air being completely purged before the steel begins to heat soak.
@@00austin I remember when I asked my fairly small, kind of preppy, slightly smug English teacher what is favorite band was. This was over a decade ago in high school. He replied "The only band that matters, The Clash." Hahaha. I was quite surprised.
1mm nozzel yeah.. not on MK3 though.. you need upgrade the hotend to a e3d volcano or something... the E3d V6 it comes with cannot melt plastic fast enough to print with a 1mm nozzel!
@@oderbang Well, to play the devil's advocate: your printer is rather rarely actually moving at the print speed assigned, because accelerations/decelerations take up the bulk of your movements. Consequently, if you double your extrusion volume and halve your max speed in order to maintain the same volumetric flow, you are in reality going to be printing significantly faster as your actual average speed can be much closer to your theoretical max speed.
My grandfather was a mechanical engineer and a boilermaker, when I stayed with him he had been retired for 10 years and had lost all of his ambition to get things done quickly. He had me make a part using some scrap stainless steel he had in a bucket. While I toiled trying to get that damn drill to cut the stainless he watched laughing literally out loud at me but wouldn’t tell me why. When lunch time came and we had some chicken fried steak he finally told me to slow down the drill and the stainless will cut like butter. I looked at him like he was bullshitting me but when I tried it, he was right.
That Noga pen attachment is obviously a deburring tool (and takes standard Noga replacement tips). Welding tip: Since you'd only be doing this if you already have argon for TIG, you can buy a Western CGA 580 tee and another flowmeter to use for weldment purging then use fittings of choice to connect green hose (your local welding supply sells it cut to length) to your oven. Make the hose with standard fittings and make it long (hose is cheap). That lets you not only connect easily to your oven, but place your argon cylinder anywhere you like instead of wheeling around on your welder. It's much more convenient to have cylinders chained to the wall or on their own cylinder cart.
14:42 : "There's still some scale on there."- you need to fill the entire room with Argon, not just the oven: you forgot the part where you take the red hot piece out of an Argon atmosphere into an Oxygen rich atmosphere! ;P
That oven must be wondering why all the air molecules argon!
The cockles are a blaze with pride my friend! Well done.
Bravo sir well done
Groan.
Sir, your pun is my anagram.
funny so funny
Get out. 🤪
Why do I get the feeling that this whole video was just a sneaky way for TOT to show us his new rabbit?
trick... you forgot trick at the end.
It’s got me worried that the kittens were made into stew! 😱
Before it went I to the oven?😳
I wanna know how it came out white.
@@bradleystach6275 Worse yet, where'd he pull the kitten from??
TOT: "Ya see that how gross those parts are? No one wants parts like that!"
*Blacksmiths have left the chat.*
unfortunately it's true. first smithed "s" hooks I sold was out of some 1/4" stock that had been buried behind a buds shop for 10 years and she loved them and had to have them all pitted to hell.
Yeah I felt attacked lmao
Tony: "No really, honey, these people will watch *anything*. I bet I could even get them to watch 2 minutes of a rabbit eating grass!!"
But it's from a collet!!😂😎👍👍
"Organic machining"
I watched it it was cute... I think Tony's plan is to attach the rabbit to the fly cutter and train the rabbit to eat grass from it so he can fly cut his lawn
Hell I've had 100 people watch a 10 minute long time lapse I posted.
@@eliworks8549 printing time lapses are entertaining. Watching all the structure being formed. Fun stuff. Now if more people would watch my video of a pseudoscorpion peeking out from a chanterelle mushroom that would be nice... maybe everyone is pretending not to be fascinated by him?
Those must be “collet greens”.
Get out.
Lol I'm dead
Well played. well played indeed. :)
Most indubitably
GODDAMMIT
Looks like the case of the oven is actually made from Undrillium.
@Peter smith and steel is heavier than feathers.
@@MaximilianonMars but only if you have a pound of each.
On top of it's heat-treated it is a heat treat oven. once it turns you need something to cut through the hardness.
TOT needs the Hardness Standards table for the different grades and types of : Undrillium, Unobtainiaum, Toosoftium, Badstuffiaum. I'v got one SOMEWERE in my old Gerstner box.
Judging by how clean that bunny is, it may not have been the first take.
and how many rabbit does it take ?
You’ve never heard the one about how the bear asked the rabbit if he has problems with...stuff...sticking to his fur?
@@Scofflaw_k10 that's funny, it made me think of the same joke.
Nah. We have something better but similar to what you guys call a perma-coat or something. Always squeeky-clean... ;P
@@Scofflaw_k10 "One day down in the jungle" is how I start to tell it, and it is the the only joke I tell. Works best in mixed company.
My favorites - pulling the rabbit out of your butt, the flycutter causing an explosion, and the rabbit eating grass accompanied by threatening music. Tony, you never fail to surprise me! Oh - and the oven seemed to work pretty well, too.
It reminds me of the Jim Carey movie where he makes the monkey come out of the guys butt.
I hope he puts that poor rabbit back where he got him from.
兔兔神作
I bet Ron Covell could make one of those tool holer racks using 'Rollation' and the hole drawing tool like in the bomber seat. I would watch that.
@@yetanotherdan Do his kids know the old man is doing experiments on the bunny, in the garage?
The flywheel cutter explosion scared the rabbit out of me...
mine to but it wasnt expecting my pants to still be on!
I saw this comment RIGHT before the explosion 😂
Same - although MY new 'pet rabbit' is browner... And smells funny
Why was there a rabbit in you? ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
@@kingarthurthe5th I think the more important question is this: Why is there NOT a rabbit in you?
Finally I found another guy who puts his fly cutter in his cordless drill for squaring work on the go
I use my fly cutter in my Yankee Screwdriver. Makes a super fine finish.
must have been a shipwright.. i found an old shipwright level once the bubble vial helps if it gets dropped..
Use it on the fly so to say lol.
@@michiganmoto7687 When I was first exposed to a Yankee, I was blown away... I still kinda want one. Perhaps one day I'll make that happen.
@@DavidLindes I got one at a yard sale, works but I never use it, just a novelty piece I guess. You can find plenty at antique stores or eBay, they'll cost a pretty penny though
It's true argon is heavier but if you flip the oven upside down it nullifies the effect.
Don't do it! It caused my oven to float away!
Gonna asphyxiate the Australians if ya ain't careful
These 3 comments are the greatest!!!
not upside down....
It’s the same reason cats always land on their feet and peanut butter toast lands sticky-side-down... unless you duct tape peanut butter toast to your cat. They you’ve achieved neutral buoyancy in air at sea level. Congratulations!!
Man the rabbit really stole the show 😁
Especially since he literally just pulled it from his ass there...
It’s now the baby bunny show.
How come the rabbit wasn’t a brown bunny?
@@johnkruton9708 Without getting too graphic, I think the saying is: With enemas like that, who needs friends?
It sure made my daughters day!
Wrapping parts in stainless steel foil for the hardening and quench will keep the scale away. The parts don't even turn black.
I was watching thinking, "Huh, my mechanics never seems to have scale." Now I know why!
You can negatively effect the quench, if you don't remove the parts from the envelope first (depending on your particular requirements)
I vouch for this random stranger from Switzerland to know what he is talking about!=)
lol du kommst aus der schweiz??
@@morkovija
Yo, I’m not Swiss 🧀, but 1.25 works for me!
I've been working as a knifemaker a few years back and we also used Argon to flush the chamber.
From my experience there shouldn't be any damage to the surface layer at all. All we used to get was a thin matte grey oxide layer and no pitting to speak of.
This was easily removed with a few strokes of 400-600 grit sandpaper. This layer would be tough but thin and you could still see the satin finish from before trough the oxide.
I think time is of the essence here as the oxidation starts as soon as you open the oven door and the atmosphere disperses. Just move a bit quicker next time.
Also I'd set a higher flow rate and maybe you should replace your oil as it seems to have a lot of gunk in it which immediately bakes onto the part as soon as it touches it.
If you're not using proper quenching oil yet, try to get some that's specifically made for heat treating.
I'd also stay away from Nitrogen and just use the Argon. With Nitrogen the oxide layer always seemed to be a lot harder to remove given the same parameters as with Argon.
I can only guess but I think the outmost layer got partly nitrated in the process which may not be a wanted side effect...
This was my thought also. You could crank up argon flow right b4 you take the part out and have your oil right at the door. As an alternative I'm going to purge my shop with argon completely be for removing the tool from the oven. I love all your videos TOT. I'm feeling kinda sleepy, I think I'll take a nap in the shop.
To add to the whole proper quench oil idea, also keep in mind that some steels want a heated quench media.
@@alext.7313 AFAIK most tool steels do. When doing critical stuff we'd usually prewarm the oil to around 200°C. This also reduces warpage and probability of cracking.
@@joenicotera2991 Proper Nitration happens at 500-550°C, so at those high temperatures it's merely an uncontrolled side effect. When done properly your part shouldn't look hot forged at all but just have an even greyish coating all around. For the parts i usually do i can still fit precision ground pins to holes that were reamed at max. 0,01mm bigger without even cleaning them up. And no, a nitrated layer isn't always wanted, especially when you need your part (f.e. a knife) to conform to certain characteristics (e.g. toughness, brittleness, edge retention, etc.).
@@unr3al67 I can say that, to my experience heat treating a wide swath of different steels, it's close to 50-50. In fact there are many steels that want to air cool after hardened. To make it more interesting, some require some intense heat mapping to air quench properly. (Ie slow ramps down, weird stepped ramps with plateaus, etc...)
With this video, you increased the audience in this house to 3x its original level! My bunnies actually sat and watched the last two minutes without hopping away, now they want to know when they can have collet greens of their own.
You should do a gag where you're still wearing work gloves and they make your voice sound muffled
Where the heck did you find a Dot Matrix 3D printer?
ok boomer
Probably at a doctors office. Thry still havs thise, probably.
@@philanderingwhitecollartra8281 Boomers are 60 and over now, I think you need glasses buddy. BTW this guy has a great YT channel, what have you accomplished in life, apart from getting RSI in both wrists from being a total wanker?
Good to see you here, Justin. Like your work, too.
Planet Druidia.
Good to see someone out there still using one of those vintage dot matrix 3D printers. I have an old coal fired printer from the late 1800's...it was a barn find...struck gold that day!
I've never machined anything in my life and probably never will. I still love this channel. I feel I'm learning things I can use later to tell other people that know more than me how they're wrong about machining but also I always come away smiling from these videos. Just thought I'd throw that in there among the pro's and machinist crowd talking shop.
I'm not sure I've ever wanted to see an audience retention graph from another channel more than the last two glorious minutes of this video...
Very bunny... quite the rabbit hole, though.
I was thinking the same thing.
The argon is heavier than air. It's leaking out of the oven through the steel casing and door. I recommend putting the oven door up if possible to reduce leaking. Otherwise increase purge cfh.
Source: Professional pipe welder
@@froop2393 It sure as hell cools down quickly too... and transfers it's heat to the air causing air to become lighter... overall keep in mind the diffusion usually argon just like any other gas will just disperse in air and you will merely start suffocating because the concentration of Ar is Already to high in the whole room... besides Argon is already in the air, it is just that the concentration is very low... I'd just be sceptical and take every precaution possible, most importantly install an active ventilation system in your garage...
An iron worker would just weld the door shut
Why not change how the over is oriented? Like with the opening upwards, like a foundry. There is nothing preventing this aaaaand once it is filled with argon....it just stays there.
The idea of a fly-cutter in a handdrill made me laugh out loud.
yeah that one got me good
Requires a bit of a steady hand, but do-able.
No realy!
I've had some spade bits try and simulate how that would feel
I've accidentally made one while trying to drill a steel bar, I lose grip and this fucker was spinning. Almost lost a finger
I told my wife, he's easily the funniest machinist I've ever heard.
Imagine being at an event and seeing a pair of floating hands.
By the way, I'm surprised that rabbit wasn't brown.
That's hillarious
The Magic of WD-40!
Or post-editing 😁
Like that old joke:
A bear and a rabbit were taking a dump out in the woods.
The bear asks the rabbit, "do you have problems with poo sticking to your fur?"
The rabbit looks up and says, "uh, no, not really..."
The bear wipes his butt with the rabbit and walks away.
Note that the bunny is on a scotchbrite pad. It takes some work, but you can eventually get through to the base white rabbit. Necessary to get a good surface finish for bluing, of course.
@@Mishn0 still funny years later dad.
You've got hardened scrapbinium, and a heat treat oven. Why didn't you make the first part into annealed scrapbinium?
I just posted this comment. So true.
It's funny you mention a "rotating hot end" for a 3d printer that's actually something I've been working on for awhile now, specifically to allow different materials/nozzle sizes/ temps/etc. Basically a microscope end, just with E3D V6 hot ends instead of lenses.
It is a cool design can't wait to see you finish it.
I've made a couple 3D printers with multiple hot ends for different colors flavors etc
@@benjaminwatkins7345 ya there are multiple ways to do it I just haven't seen one like what he is working on. And it is almost exactly what Tony describes.
Tool changer mods are a thing now
Makertech3d sells a switching hotend but the reviews aren't that great - and the switching with that one is only on one plane. Repeatability and calibration is a huge hassle.
There's some nice manually operated options though, xChange being the one that comes to mind first because it's a commercial product (kickstarter) but there are many opensource solutions on thingiverse and the like.
For fully automatic toolchanging, the e3d toolchanger / jubilee3D seems to be state of the art atm. Their couplings are being ported to different platforms by the community. Also a hassle to set up and calibrate but very precise and repeatable.
Since argon is heavier than 'air', most of it is going to flow out of the oven as soon as you open the door.
Nitrogen will take longer to do that (since the air is mostly nitrogen), so you may get better results with the other gas.
Honestly, I've found that laying the oven on it's back with using gas helps the results, since opening the top doesn't let the purging gasses fall out onto the floor.
Argon is heavier than air, but it is fairly hot inside the oven, so maybe it is actually lighter than air in this case?
@@HitoPrl Just heat the shop to 1500F. Problem solved.
@@marcgoodman4862 least he wont have to worry about a covid infection if he somehow heated his whole workshop that hot )
Science
@@HitoPrl It Is. Convection will take care of the inert atmosphere the second you open the door.
When we use nitrogen to inert vessels in the oil industry we apply the gas from the bottom and vent the oxygen from the top.
You an always check this in your application by putting a lite
Match into the vented gas to confirm you are getting no more oxygen in the vent stream.
No we don't use this test method in our industrial applications
I'm only disappointed the printed tool holder doesn't have "Maholder" embossed on it.
CNC engraving and backfill with grey... it would match the feet.. have it lurking in a shot somewhere for only the astute coinsures... only it will say "subscribe" for some reason..
You got me with the exploding cutter gag, made me jump!
Me too. It startled me.
Yup,,, same here
Blimmin heck! Just a bit!
Yep nearly brown 🤣
One mill makes you larger, and one mill makes you small
And the ones that Mother gives you don't do anything at all
I had a white rabbit joke forming in my mind when I saw this. Yours is far better than the crudity I had in mind.
@@customhaines2510 Remember what the dormouse said: Feeds and speeds! Feeds and speeds!
@@customhaines2510 Although on second thought, the rabbit would probably appreciate some crudités.
And if you go chasing rabbits,make sure you have collet greens to them.
Epic Reply, just Epic!
This old tony has officially become a major part of my life. And he doesn’t even know me.
Or does he?!? "insert suspense dum dum dum thing here"
@@aerogfs and maybe we've all become a part of his, and he doesn't know us! Dun du dunnnn
Trust me, we are all much better off with him. That Other Old Tony is more frightening and creepy than the rabbit! (He has a goatee so you can tell he is the evil one.)
Notice me senpai!
I don't even know what he's talking about 95% of the time. I'm just here for the jokes.
"scrapbinium." I'm gonna use that one.
I just want to give this man a hug everytime he makes a joke.
The worst part of 2020 was the lack of ToT vids, save us Tony more vids plz
Our rabbit graduated from eating collet grass, he now has his greens served in a ten inch 6-jaw chuck. True story!
The rabbits in my backyard only eat O2 sensors and various wires.
@@Hypercube9 so now I know what kind of critter ate my o2 sensor wires. Thanks
@@Hypercube9 are they covered with long point hairs ? for that variety also eats radiator hose's >can you imagine emerging from hunting camp hundreds of miles from a auto parts store ,and as cold as it might be , you have no coolant left ?
Many years ago I worked in my grandfather's tool & die shop and we would wrap the dies carefully in stainless-steel foil before they went in the oven for heat treating. They were still slightly discolored, but when they were unwrapped they had NOTHING like the scale I saw in the last video when the tool steel goes in naked. This argon mod is awesome, but the old folks knew how to get stuff done too.
I regularly use A2 and I either wrap them in stainless steel foil or bags. If I do it well they come out nice and bright. A2 is an air cooling material. I leave them in the bag and before tempering in the kitchen oven they are at 62 to 65 HRC
That's how I learned to do it, with an added chunk of paper in the bag so it burns up and consumes all the o2.
"...so lets make something!"
TOT proceeds to heat treat the chips.
TOOONIII we have to talk .... To be honest ... I was sad that there was no "shop cleaning and telling storys video" last year for christmas. :(
Just like everything else in 2020, going downhill. 🤔
Fingers crossed ToT will give us fans something in January about that.🤞🤞🤞🤔
@@mgmnfld3109 🤣👍
TOT's fingerprint removal tool at @10:22 made me cry from laughing so hard! I know it's almost a year later, but I STILL come back to watch this video for a laugh.
This Old Tony petting a bunny may be the most wholesome thing I've seen on this channel
Well, there were the cats.
Where are the cats???
@@JohnADoe-pg1qk We took them, ages ago, and you're asking NOW? Really?!? Once we've replace those punny cats with one of ours? Really?!? We did ask for a reward too you know? But no one answered. So, we sold them to SIr SIc. ;)
I probably shouldn't mention that he's actually petting his butt hare on camera then!
@@Hypercube9 Well, in a way, he is. But, to mention it or not is your choice.... Lmao!
Watching the bunny at the end I could only think “the bones man, the bones”. I was waiting for the holy hand grenade.
Then shalt thou count to three, no more, no less. Three shall be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three
I think the Holy Hand Grenade is currently on loan to either Clickspring or Abom...
I told em, but they never listen
"One! Two! Five!"
"Three sir!"
"Three!"
Alan Chambers I thought of "Night of the Lepus".
The idea that technological innovation has taken an object that could be made of wood in 15 minutes to 27 hours, not including the design aspect. What a time to be alive.
Also you could have purchased a child's step stool and drilled or melted holes in it. BUT, it's not about the journey or destination, it's about buying more tools.
The explosion literally made me jump.
Yeah i thought for a second tony was going to the ER lol.
Likewise, headphones can be a bad option 🤣
Totally got me
Same i spit out my beer
Dirty trick! 🤬
That moment of absent-mindedness where you released the smoke from your finger was way too familiar. I have definitely done that. A few times.
Same here . . . but with a soldering iron... I'm usually careful, all the way up to that point too . . .
I used to have a habit of holding random bits of undercarriage while watching students working under cars. It was never a problem because they were working on school cars; longest they ever ran was the minute to get from the storage lot into the shop.
Then one day I ducked under a _customer_ car, right off the road and, while leaning in - grabbed the cat.
And that was my introduction to "incident reporting". Yay.
@@Azlehria About the cat. . . I wwas helping a friend remove a cat that had a hole in it and they were prying it while I was cutting it and all of a sudden SLAM! it came off and wack'd me up side the head.... That hopefully knocked some sense into or ouuta me lol... At least the install of the replacement wasn't a issue.
I picked up my freshly welded stainless part last night... Ive been doing this shit for years!
I am never ungloved at the welding shop.
Believe it or not, I'm walkin' on air
I never thought I could feel so free
Flyin' away on a wing and a prayer
Who could it be?
Believe it or not it's just me
Oh man! Sentimental overload! Haven't thought about that show in a very long time.
Next project: Tony makes a second camera.
"Buys" a second camera. Too many un-ToT components in a camera. Of course, he could always make a camera stand!
On the lathe.
Those caddy's remind me of the ones the kids used to use for cleaning their teeth at the sink when they couldn't reach it... looking back I should have taken out the tools
0:46 learn to play with slicer settings and feed and speed
Optimizing your head speed, extrusion hight, etc greatly helps print time as well as not sacrificing fidelity by increasing nozzle size
Also you’re not gonna completely get rid of scale unless you’re going to keep it in a completely inert atmosphere including quenching but you’ve definitely helped a lot
Plot twist, the bunny is named argon and This Old Tony will be cooking with him later
Mmmm, rabbit pie
The bunnies name is actually Stew. ;-)
No the rabbits the chef
In the oven
The video is literally called "Noww, we're cooking WITH Argon" Peeps in the comments are suggesting "cooking Argon" which is NOT the same! smh... lol ;)
I really really appreciate you including all the things that seem to happen to me. Dull drill bits make you question whether you are doing something stupid. Mystery materials end up being incredibly hard to cut etc. This is me all the time.
Hi, fair warning: The E3Dv6 hotend used by the Prusa MK3/S is close to being flow rate limited (cubic mm of plastic extruded per second) for thicker layer heights even with the 0.4mm nozzle, so with larger nozzle sizes, that is the bottle neck and will prevent you from deriving a good chunk of the speed advantage you could be from larger nozzles. But I am very impatient and an instant gratification enthusiast (who isn't?) so here is how to get around that, and some other tricks to reducing print time by a few fold:
1. Get an E3D volcano hotend. It screws onto the Prusa heatbreak and uses the same heater cartridge and thermistor, so it is a drop-in compatible upgrade. You lose a few mm of print height and you'll need to print a fan nozzle adapter to lower the outlet slightly (there are literally dozens of these if you look for volacno prusa mk3 on thingiverse - and you can print fine for the most part without it anyway). You'll want to get some nozzles for it too - 0.2mm to 1.2mm sizes are available. More importantly, the Volcano increases your maximum flow rate by 2-3x, which for layer heights and wider nozzles will cut print time by a half or third. Just make sure you increase the 'maximum flow rate' setting in the filament settings in Prusa Slic3r. The settings included are tuned for the wimpier E3Dv6. I've been using a volcano exclusively for years and besides a mostly negligible z-height loss, there isn o downside. It's just better.
2. Strangely, I never see much about this trick online but its a vital knob one can tune for 3D printing: extrusion width. Meaning, you don't need 0.6mm nozzle or even an 0.8mm nozzle to print line widths that wide. The only true limitation with nozzle radius is layer height. You always have to print layers slightly thinner than the radius of the nozzle (so 0.35mm is the max for 0.4mm nozzle). But when it comes to extrusion WIDTH, you can generally print up to 250% the nozzle radius without problems. If you look at the nozzle, there is a flat surface where the filament bead comes out, and that feature limits the line width (as this surface is what flattens the bead as the print head does an extrusion move). So you can print 1mm line widths no problem with a stock 0.4mm nozzle, and often you can go slightly wider but you start getting into the tolerance territory for the width of that feature so above 250%, ymmv between nozzles. I like to print with 3-4 perimeters minimum for strength, so a way to get a ton of speed improvement with little to no detail loss is to increase the line width of solid infill, infill, and perimeters while leaving the external perimeter width the default 0.45mm or whatever it is. Also, using line widths 1.5 times the nozzle diameter and wider tends to improve layer adhesion, especially for certain filaments like polycarbonate. The bead has to spread out and is thus smooshed against the previous layer with more pressure, and it is heat AND pressure that increases layer adhesion.
3. Not a tip per see, just a caveat: you'll want to bump up the hotend temperature when printing at 20-25+mm/3 flow rates with the volcano. The rule of thumb I use for most filaments is increase print temperature by 3°C for every mm3/s of additional flow rate above 15mm3/s. So for 30mm3/s, this means 30-15=15mm3/s * 3 = 45°C. So for a print temp of 210°C, this results in 255°C. This probably sounds really high for PLA, but when you're ripping that sweet sweet lactic acid out at 30mm3/s and you can see the spool just spinning continuously, it won't seem that hot anymore. The filament is spending so little time in the hotend that it is never actually reaching that temperature, the extra temperature is to heat it up faster so it still hits in the ball park of the intended print temperature by the time it exists the nozzle.
If all of this sounds like it might have a fairly serious negative impact on print quality.... it really doesn't. And you can really tweak these knobs without adjusting anything else and it really does generally just work. Obviously you will have the normal changes from thicker layers etc. but using these tricks won't really have an impact on quality beyond what you'd get anyway, and if for some reason you do, just back off the flow rate a little and you should be good to go.
Final double secret tip: if you're really nuts, E3Dv6 also makes something called the Super Volcano that is also compatible with the MK3/S. You will lose a lot of Z height but I mean, its a hotend that is undeniably what you get when you take the thermal limitations of print speed to its logical conclusion. The nozzle size goes up to 1.75mm (so, literally the filament diameter lol) and, well, just look at them. If you need all the flow rate in your hotend, these nozzles will put it all up in your hotend. ALL UP IN IT: metacollin.com/s/hvOxXgoUR02s.png
The end is definitely my favourite part of the show. Definitely.
10/10 Amazing video! I love the 2 minutes of rabbit cuteness at the end, all youtube videos should have that. But when will you give us a general update on the maho, instead of showing short zoomed in clips of it. You are my favorite youtuber, machinist, comedian and so much more. Keep up the good work.
Someone once told me the key to making being human easy is make your screw ups look like you planned them.
You didn't run out of printing 'ink', you planned on two tone legs.
In that vein, I went looking for drill stops by ordering shaft clamps. The secret to my research was I ordered a bunch of shaft clamps by the OD, thinking it was the ID. As I was putting away the much too small shaft clamps, I noticed just how much they looked like the set of 'drill stops' I had bought from China via eBay 4-5 years ago.
What put a smile on my face was discovering the price of the shaft clamps was MUCH cheaper than even the drill stops when I compared the sizes in the set.
I love it when a plan comes together; even when I had no plan.
GeoD
I bought the cheapest, single set screw, no split, Blk Oxide coated steel shaft clamps. You could go 'show boat', and buy SS shaft clamps.
"Hello everyone this is YOUR daily dose of internet.....This TH-cam machinist let a bunny eat grass from a machine collet...."
ER32 I believe
I personally love the look of mill scale/quench scale on parts that aren't dimension-critical
...the scaley surface as it ajoins a clean, machined section? Unnggghh...
@@AHustleIsLikeASideOfFries I can't tell if that's a groan of pleasure or disgust lol
4:30
That's a deburring tool! I used those when T was in my training workshop at school!
Tony said a nose or ear trimmer... As a joke. But i forgot the name of the tool, so thanks to be the only one to help.
@@moiquiregardevideo here we call it a monkey tail
I'm still wondering if he was being funny or did not know for real. I could not believe I actually knew what it was, considering I have about 0.5% of Tony's knowledge...
The sound of removing the tool holders sounds crazy in headphones. Was convinced the noises were coming from my room.
Same on my computer with a nice sound setup! I thought someone was outside my window banging on my fence!
It really freaked me out.
I nearly choked and died at the "**WOOOOOOOW**" part.
Hope it didn't do too much damage lol.
Tony, I'm a big fan, your my favorite you tuber. Being a heat treater from way back I could write a book about this video. I enjoyed it very much and I won't be nitpicky about the technical errors, I know it is all in good fun. By the way Nitrogen will not work as well as Argon. If you would like to hear more I'd love to talk about it, metaphorically speaking of course. I also have a great project for you if you could let me know how to submit it. It would be too long to put in this comment. Thanks for what you do.
nothing like a tot vid to take one's mind off the horrors of the world.
The worst being - no ToT video to watch
Here here! Lol if TOT stops posting... that’s the real issue.
I see you are trying to acquire a holy hand grenade, the hard way.
Man... Out of all the infinite worlds out there in the multiverse, I'm really glad ThisOldTony decided to make these AMAZING videos and upload them to youtube! Thank you good sir for putting all the hard work on these videos full of useful information that are still incredibly hilarious!
haha, loved the dot matrix printer sounds :)
Aha! Two heat treatment oven "fell off a truck" near my garage and I was wondering why both had nice round holes on the top... makes sense now!
Just a tip from someone who made a living from welding argon purged stainless steel piping and vessels. Always introduce argon from below and allow the air to vent out from the top. You get a much cleaner purge. You can get away with lower purge rates which saves argon costs as well.
10:20 This part so amused me that I repeated it several times and showed my family what I was laughing at.
You are our favourite magician Tony. :)
I had to scroll down too much to like this comment.
I got the same results when I did this. Better than no argon but seemed like a waste of argon considering the results. I think the issue is most of the argon just leaks out the door. What I did that finally got really good results was to put the parts in a stainless box with a stainless foil over the top with a hole for your argon tube. You feed your argon tube into the box through the hole in the stainless foil. Since argon is heavier, it fills from the bottom and since the top is just covered with stainless foil, the pressure is vented at the top of the box. You don't need very much argon flow for this. You will need to make a handle point on the box so you can grab it with something safe. I welded a bar of stainless on the side of the box that I could grab with my tongs. You pull the argon tube, open the oven door, grab the box and put it on a fire proof surface and remove the foil top and remove the part for quench. The results are close to pro level. Do the quench quickly because as soon as you remove the part from the box, oxygen starts to attach. That is the only oxidation I got with this method.
Hey Tony, not to be 'that guy' but you know you can just make a 1 mm nozzle right? Could even be hardened steel! After all, what's the point of a home machine shop if not spending 6 hours on a $2 part :P
(probably need a heater upgrade for that though, just FYI)
Just to be another kind of "that guy", be careful increasing nozzle sizes. Your hotend has a limit on extrusion rate, usually measured in mm^3/sec. Things like the Volcano hotend increase this limit. Not sure what your hotend is, but you can probably find the limit online and program your slicer to not exceed the max extrusion rate, but that will slow down the print again. There will be a point of diminishing returns without upgrading the hotend too.
@@samuraisystemsllc a second to this! I have a normal V6 hot end and a Volcano and I keep stumbling into the volumetric throughout limit on just a 0.8mm nozzle even on my volcano (I run speeds fairly high, its a 400x400mm bed after all).
Other people have tried that with smaller nozzles and ended up turning the nozzle into scrap. You also need a printer that can push that kind of volume into a larger diameter nozzle, otherwise you risk damaging other parts of the hot end.
@@samuraisystemsllc Looks like a PRUSA so it would be a E3D V6 stock...
I think its been said elsewhere in the comments, but for anyone that's interested in learning about 3d printers, the power output of your hot end DOES put a hard limit on the amount of filament you can push through your nozzle per second. At first glance, that makes it look like a big nozzle is pointless. The reason its not is because the printer only needs to dispense a certain amount of filament per inch, but it can't fly around corners in the print at top speed. Therefore, increasing the nozzle gives you lower print head speeds, meaning the head doesn't need to speed up and slow down for turns as much, so it runs closer to the maximum speed more of the time. (You also lose resolution though, so sometimes it's not an option. Holding out hope for that multi head attachment. Do it for the kids, Tony!)
The exposition when the cuter made contact actually got me lil
got me too, i went cold inside
Me too. I almost pi.... my pants. :-D
Great video, like always. Maybe the source of the scaling is the transition between oven and the oil. I mean, once it leaves the oven it comes in contact with oxygen rich atmosphere, plus the flames when dipped in the oil suggest reaction with O2. Also the oil might be contaminated. Reducing the time by decreasing the distance to the oil and having something to grab it with prepared might help. Also, bubbling argon into the oil might ensure there´s no oxygen at least on the surface of the oil. Best of luck! :)
I'd imagine those heat treat devices would cook a great steak in 40 seconds, care to give it a try?
You need Doubleboost for combined cooking / machining ;-)
I honestly kinda wonder what effect the inert atmosphere would have on the cooking process and result
@@adrianpip2000 you couldnt *burn* the meat
That bunny was pretty white for where it came from. Tony must have a bidet.
Aah, quality time in the garage can’t be beaten.
I could do with a 3D printer mainly to make a replica of myself so that I can leave that at work and spend more quality time in the man cave!
Thanks for the instalment. You know we love ‘em!
In case anyone else is scratching their heads over that austere industrial air: Dead Industrial Atmosphere by Leatherface.
Now I'm scratching my head.
Under a rock here....still doesn't help
Holy heck that slaps! Never heard of them (maybe the name rings vague bells). But if this is representative, I'll be self-administering their catalog immediately via aural cavity.
Thank you for the explanation! (and the introduction to a new band)
Smiled as soon as I saw it.
I you watched the bunnies all the way to yhe end ToT owns your soul 🥴
I skipped to the end. I was expecting all the grass is gone and just a pile of rabbit pellets.
@@randywl8925 Cheat. Go back and watch it all :)
@@honkynel I'll do that. Everything Tony does is worth watching twice. He is one funny guy. ...a very talented and smart funny guy
Thank you for the rabbit eating, that was excellent. Be interesting to see if sitting the oven on its end so the door is at the top makes any difference, it would stop the argon spilling out any gap in the door.
Noone gonna mention that he spent 40+ hours printing children's stools with holes in them?
That's the joke
"Honey, I need a live a rabbit for a 1 minute gag"
" try not to choke on the hare "
Three minutes. There's two extra minutes in the end credits.
@@kevinmcenhill2656 The rabbit's agent said that there'd be no deal unless he got at minimum 3 minutes of screen time.
..3 min screen time OK - but sitting up the a** of tot the first 12 min to get to that? Pretty shitty agent..
Classic TOT as always. Maybe add a small hole at the top of the oven to allow the O2 laden air to escape as the argon flows in. I suspect that if the oven door is probably a close enough fit to prevent the air being completely purged before the steel begins to heat soak.
Discovering Leatherface was definitely not what I expected to come out of a TOT video. I'm not upset.
Who'd a thought he was a Leatherface fan.
@@00austin I remember when I asked my fairly small, kind of preppy, slightly smug English teacher what is favorite band was. This was over a decade ago in high school. He replied "The only band that matters, The Clash." Hahaha. I was quite surprised.
Editing like now one else.. 14:00 “sry I just have one camera“ Great :D
My favorites talk show. Ever, I think. Even I am not good enough in English. :-). From another country and still on earth. Have a nice day. Keep safe.
i laughed so much at the explosion, it was so out of nowhere.
1mm nozzel yeah.. not on MK3 though.. you need upgrade the hotend to a e3d volcano or something... the E3d V6 it comes with cannot melt plastic fast enough to print with a 1mm nozzel!
I mean, you can just turn down the feedrate and print slower. (yes, this can actually get faster print times, see others below)
@@troy4393 which defeats the whole point in trying to speed up the print!
@@oderbang Well, to play the devil's advocate: your printer is rather rarely actually moving at the print speed assigned, because accelerations/decelerations take up the bulk of your movements. Consequently, if you double your extrusion volume and halve your max speed in order to maintain the same volumetric flow, you are in reality going to be printing significantly faster as your actual average speed can be much closer to your theoretical max speed.
Troy Dietz that would result in slower print time, so no Bueno.
An E3d Volcano upgrade option would give the results you desire.
My grandfather was a mechanical engineer and a boilermaker, when I stayed with him he had been retired for 10 years and had lost all of his ambition to get things done quickly. He had me make a part using some scrap stainless steel he had in a bucket. While I toiled trying to get that damn drill to cut the stainless he watched laughing literally out loud at me but wouldn’t tell me why. When lunch time came and we had some chicken fried steak he finally told me to slow down the drill and the stainless will cut like butter. I looked at him like he was bullshitting me but when I tried it, he was right.
The beginning of this video was okay, I guess. What really sold me was the last two minutes
Oh finally. Missed Ya, TOT.
That Noga pen attachment is obviously a deburring tool (and takes standard Noga replacement tips).
Welding tip: Since you'd only be doing this if you already have argon for TIG, you can buy a Western CGA 580 tee and another flowmeter to use for weldment purging then use fittings of choice to connect green hose (your local welding supply sells it cut to length) to your oven. Make the hose with standard fittings and make it long (hose is cheap). That lets you not only connect easily to your oven, but place your argon cylinder anywhere you like instead of wheeling around on your welder. It's much more convenient to have cylinders chained to the wall or on their own cylinder cart.
From a welder who deals with alot of that film on laser cut parts..just warm it up a little( bernzomatic torch)..comes off alot easier
"This Old Tony ... now with 100% more Butt Rabbits!" Keep it up my friend.
"This Old Tony ... now with 100% more Butt Hares" ! There fixed it for ya :'D
@@plusmanikantanr Oh yeah, that's absolutely better. Thanks!
You have a great sense of humor, man. I always enjoy watching your stuff. Thanks for all your hard work Tony.
14:42 : "There's still some scale on there."- you need to fill the entire room with Argon, not just the oven: you forgot the part where you take the red hot piece out of an Argon atmosphere into an Oxygen rich atmosphere! ;P
And magically the oven was labeled with "subscribe 180"
I missed it
The Rabbit bit was so precious, hey you, Old Tony, thank you for making my day better.... Cheers!
Scrapbinium!!! Flipping hilarious!
9:20
Me:
- looks at the chip management
- swears in AboM
- shakes head in disapproval
This video perfectly demonstrates the advantage of heat treating in molten salt.
16:46 love that X/Y/Z pulse generating wheels setup!! Might steal the idea! ;-)