I used to be a tractor mechanic. I've ceen this happen several times. The PTO is driven off the transmission and has no internal drive clutch. I have seen guys out bush hogging and go to turn, push in the clutch butthe bush hog is still spinning which will drive the transmission causing the tractor to keep on going, running over fences or whateve is in the way. I habe sold many of those over ride clutches to people who own an 8N and others thatford built without the internal over ride clutch. Anotherthing about the 8N is the hyd pump is driven by the trans and when you push the clutch in the lift will come down. I'vehad to explain that is normal for these tractors to many people who thought their tractor was broke....
Back in the day they would work 100 acres with an 8N on a regular basis. At the end of the season the owner would go down to the Ford tractor dealer and buy what they called a season rebuild kit, pertty cheap in those days. Everything you needed to rebuild the motor came in one box. Gaskets, bearings, pistons with rings and even new cylinder liners. The main thing you had to know was if the motor had .040 or .090 wall thickness liners. I remember one I rebuilt that the block had cracked down the side along the cam line, I used the old threaded plug system to drill, tap and put a plug in. Then you would drill half way into the plug, tap and put in the next plug, you had to repeat this until you had done the entire length of the crack, I can't remember how many insert plugs I used on that motor but it was a lot! That tractor ran for years without a problem, suprised me. The last of the 8N's rolled out in 53 and sold for 1595.00, today there worth 2500+ if there turn key ready to work. Only problem now is there pertty hard to find around my part of the country. You could do a lot with one of them. If I remember right, the motor was either a 14 or 18 horsepower. Amazing what you could do with one......Their basically collector items now but every now and then you run accross one still being used with a brush cutter, (bush hog). Loved them, LOL.....
You can also loosen the slip clutch on the bush hog most people tighten them to tight and this will also cause this problem. Hay rollers the same way. Some thing has to give or it breaks
Thanks for the informative videos I have a 46 8n and a B6100D kubota. I'm rebuilding the 8n any tips on fixing the excessive play in the steering on the tractor?
There is a screw headed bolt with a jam nut on each side of the steer box, that is your slack adjusters. The output shafts on the gear box are taper cut and the adjustment screws either pushed or pulled the shaft in or out to set the gear mesh. Do the one closet to the sterring wheel shaft first, once you feel comfortable with steerwheel play then you move to the other one and set it to the shaft you just did. Those steering boxes arn't hard to rebuild if you can find parts for them.
First, you need to find where the play is coming from. Is it in the gearbox or some of the linkage? That usually only takes a couple of minutes. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth, in the slack range, while you look for anything that moves.
Maybe a video on a entry level tractor. I cut only 2 acres but want to get a tractor as a lawn ornament but also have it usable if the zero turn goes down. I've seen some cool looking tractors for 1k to 2k. What's the minimum you can spend on a older tractor thats good looking and usable
@@wobblysauce thank God for the shear pin cutters, a grade 2 bolt and nut. Sure saved a lot of tractors from damage. Most guys usually kept 5 or 6 shear pins in the Jesus ring box.......
I bought a 1952 8N for $1500 in running condition. And then spent $2K in parts and 100 hours labor to make it right. And it's been very reliable as a result. Beware of the "restorations" that replaced a couple of parts and just re-painted. Plan on $2500 to 3K for a good one. A show quality one will run $5K+ Now I bought a bigger diesel tractor and am selling mine in KY.
It's hard to say if you go to Facebook trying crazy D equipment page and join the public group and share pictures of what your tractor doing the guys in the group plus myself can probably tell you what's going on
I'm pretty sure hydraulic fluid and 50 wt oil are not that close. Hydraulic fluid is 10wt. I'm not arguing that you shouldn't use hydraulic fluid in the rear end though
Loaned out tractor and THEY changed the oil ?? Must have been a LONG loan out. Unless they received the tractor with wrong oil.. Something smells and its not oil
Dan looks like a good guy
Moral of the story is, when your mowing the back lot, your aiming for grass, not for fence posts. Those chew up gears.
Hell yeah, long live the tractor doctor
Very good information guys, thanks a lot. Great video work. Many people enjoy this content, young folks can learn too. Great stuff
I used to be a tractor mechanic. I've ceen this happen several times. The PTO is driven off the transmission and has no internal drive clutch. I have seen guys out bush hogging and go to turn, push in the clutch butthe bush hog is still spinning which will drive the transmission causing the tractor to keep on going, running over fences or whateve is in the way. I habe sold many of those over ride clutches to people who own an 8N and others thatford built without the internal over ride clutch. Anotherthing about the 8N is the hyd pump is driven by the trans and when you push the clutch in the lift will come down. I'vehad to explain that is normal for these tractors to many people who thought their tractor was broke....
That reminds me, I need to install the OverRun Clutch I bought for my 8N...
Sounds like a good man to have in the shop.
Overalls Rock!! freakin awesome Doc
Thanks guys, I knew my gear oil was to thick,now I know what to get . thanks
Where have you been? I love these videos! Great job and very informative!
Back in the day they would work 100 acres with an 8N on a regular basis. At the end of the season the owner would go down to the Ford tractor dealer and buy what they called a season rebuild kit, pertty cheap in those days. Everything you needed to rebuild the motor came in one box. Gaskets, bearings, pistons with rings and even new cylinder liners. The main thing you had to know was if the motor had .040 or .090 wall thickness liners. I remember one I rebuilt that the block had cracked down the side along the cam line, I used the old threaded plug system to drill, tap and put a plug in. Then you would drill half way into the plug, tap and put in the next plug, you had to repeat this until you had done the entire length of the crack, I can't remember how many insert plugs I used on that motor but it was a lot! That tractor ran for years without a problem, suprised me. The last of the 8N's rolled out in 53 and sold for 1595.00, today there worth 2500+ if there turn key ready to work. Only problem now is there pertty hard to find around my part of the country. You could do a lot with one of them. If I remember right, the motor was either a 14 or 18 horsepower. Amazing what you could do with one......Their basically collector items now but every now and then you run accross one still being used with a brush cutter, (bush hog). Loved them, LOL.....
You can also loosen the slip clutch on the bush hog most people tighten them to tight and this will also cause this problem. Hay rollers the same way. Some thing has to give or it breaks
Dan the man! Thanks for the informative video.
Dan, Dan , He's our man!! If he can't fix it no one can!!! Gooooooooo Dan!!!! LOL!!
Just curious about transmission oil for a Ford 8N my original manual says 80w or 90w straight mineral oil
That’s what I’m seeing as well. Don’t see anything about 50weight oil.
Is Dan the wizard equivalent for tractors?
I think he must be The Wizard's brother :)
Your tractor wizard sounds higher than I am and I just took down some 707 headband. Great medicine.
Are you a big fan of the 8n then @crazyd??
Thanks for the informative videos I have a 46 8n and a B6100D kubota. I'm rebuilding the 8n any tips on fixing the excessive play in the steering on the tractor?
There is a screw headed bolt with a jam nut on each side of the steer box, that is your slack adjusters. The output shafts on the gear box are taper cut and the adjustment screws either pushed or pulled the shaft in or out to set the gear mesh. Do the one closet to the sterring wheel shaft first, once you feel comfortable with steerwheel play then you move to the other one and set it to the shaft you just did. Those steering boxes arn't hard to rebuild if you can find parts for them.
First, you need to find where the play is coming from. Is it in the gearbox or some of the linkage? That usually only takes a couple of minutes. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth, in the slack range, while you look for anything that moves.
They should also have a slip clutch on the brush hog also.
That is very true
It would be nice to know what town you lived in or your shop was in because I can't find you anywhere
Oh that was an old video you were watching we are located in Newton Kansas
Got a link for that book?
Dan where you able to locate the tachometer for my MT180HD Mitsubishi
Maybe a video on a entry level tractor. I cut only 2 acres but want to get a tractor as a lawn ornament but also have it usable if the zero turn goes down. I've seen some cool looking tractors for 1k to 2k. What's the minimum you can spend on a older tractor thats good looking and usable
That's a good suggestion I will look into doing a video like that thank you for the ideal
@@CrazyDEquipment Another thing, some don't have clutches for the PTO but have the shear pins to stop the same issue.
@@wobblysauce thank God for the shear pin cutters, a grade 2 bolt and nut. Sure saved a lot of tractors from damage. Most guys usually kept 5 or 6 shear pins in the Jesus ring box.......
I bought a 1952 8N for $1500 in running condition. And then spent $2K in parts and 100 hours labor to make it right. And it's been very reliable as a result. Beware of the "restorations" that replaced a couple of parts and just re-painted. Plan on $2500 to 3K for a good one. A show quality one will run $5K+
Now I bought a bigger diesel tractor and am selling mine in KY.
Lawn ornament s usually CHEVY...you get a FORD to get the job done!!
enjoy your video! pls buy your Wrench a new T shirt! (I don't know about raising the front half buy the FUEL TANK???)
I thought the video was very good very and good information
Thank you for the information. Do you have a public email?
You can message me through the Facebook page for the dealer's lot at Omega AG sales
my ford tractor is blowing out thetop plate under seat,what the problem
It's hard to say if you go to Facebook trying crazy D equipment page and join the public group and share pictures of what your tractor doing the guys in the group plus myself can probably tell you what's going on
Man you need to go get lap band so we can get another 10 or 15 years out of you for real.
I'm pretty sure hydraulic fluid and 50 wt oil are not that close. Hydraulic fluid is 10wt. I'm not arguing that you shouldn't use hydraulic fluid in the rear end though
THF or tractor hydraulic fluid is different than regular hydraulic fluid and is around 30-45wt depending on manufacturer.
Loaned out tractor and THEY changed the oil ?? Must have been a LONG loan out. Unless they received the tractor with wrong oil.. Something smells and its not oil