Man you are the most thorough car audio teacher ever on the internet, you put the industry to shame with their sell everything but explain nothing to the consumer. Imagine the equipment people would not or would have bought if they understood what it does and how to use it. Every dsp company keeps everything murky but at the same time throw tech data at you like the average consumer helped build it or something. I appreciate this channel more than any mobile class I seen or been too
I love that you’re using the same oscilloscope that they trashed me in your group for using to set my gains 😂 Facebook users are some funny people, Mr. Nerijus. Thank you as always for what you do for the community.
What are breath of fresh air. I've been preaching speaker efficiency/sensitivity and head room forever it seems like. Still people want to buy the hyped up brands they see on TH-cam thinking that's the only way to be loud. In my car I have a 400 watt amp on mids and highs, and a 1500 watt amp on one 12 inch sub. When people get in they're shocked at how loud and clean my stereo is. They ask what it meters and when I tell them. They say that's not possible with that much power and one 12. Terrific video, terrific channel!
Sveikas tavo manymu kokį filtrą ir dazni parinkt štai šiam daigtui priešbosis Helix Match MW 8BMW-D nes mid 10cm rašo nuo 100hz startas bet spėju kad tai melas 😊
@@RAW-CAt basically as you know at every frequency there are layers of different sounds. Well when you add to a frequency it pulls the very top layers first causing uneven gain from the top Layer to the bottom depending on level. Opposite is true for cutting. It basically smashes the layers together. I know this for a fact. For one I could hear it and afterwards dug into the topic. Real issue studios deal with. My daughter plays live music and is a communications major in college and we've talked about this subject and the audibly of it. I also know this is way outside most people's interests.
93dB sensitivity with 1 watt, EMMA SQ judging is at 85dB. I clamped all the channels on my car at 104dB at the headrest, Mids and tweets less than 1W, midbass was 1W, front sub was 7W trunk baffle sub was 180W. I have all my gains all the way down except for the subs, so I don't bother with them either. I have a question though, if you adjust your gains after then doesn't that messes up your levels in your tune? So it's better to match DSP to amp at the beginning and just have headroom, like you said. i think there are so many "adjusting gains" videos because people treat it as a volume knob.
It does mess up with the level matching indeed. It would be a back and forth game checking and adjusting. The only time I had to adjust the gains on an amplifier was after cutting midbass with EQ (to get rid of the cancellations) and then bringing the level up🤷
Thoughts on setting gain with a sweep over a singular sine wave let’s say a sweep 25-150 you make a smooth response with an O scope from let’s say your box is great from 32-60 hz so I make a smooth response as much output as possible without clipping from 30-80 with the sweep instead of just let’s say a singular sine wave 30 hz and a 40 hz because that would mean my music plays well from 30 through 80 with no clipping compared to just music that plays at 30 and 40hz. Been tuning all my subwoofers like this when it comes to gain it always sounds great compared to using independent tones just wanted your opinion.
In my opinion, there is no need to reinvent the wheel🤷 It does not matter what your subs or box is playing , for setting the gains all that matters is the electrical signal. And if using a DSP, that signal is clearly seen in the individual EQ window.
What if say my left mid bass eq is cut at 300hz and boost at 400hz . While right mid bass is boosted at 300 but cut at 400. As per my response scenario and eq requirements. But amplifier gain setting knob is common for these 2 channels. What to do in that case?
You choose the "weakest link". See which OVERALL boost is higher, the 300 on R or 400 on L. As well take into account the channel gain. For example if your l side has +2dB overall boost at 400Hz and -3dB channel gain, you are -1dB in total for the l channel. And if your right side has +1dB overall boost at 300Hz and 0dB channel gain, then your R channel is higher in level, so you should choose 300Hz tone. Hope that makes sense. Just some maths😉
Quick question. Isn't it the case that in order to use an oscilloscope and get correct readings from it (as well as from multimeter) you need to disconnect speakers from amps?
You can have the subs connected, but mids and tweets you will blow. I never recommend setting gains for mids and tweets, but since people keep asking, I made the video🤷
![[Full Episode] The Restaurant War Thailand ศึกพ่อค้าซ่าแม่ค้าแซ่บ Episode 2 | 29 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/r3lfLNH6Ke4/mqdefault.jpg)
Man you are the most thorough car audio teacher ever on the internet, you put the industry to shame with their sell everything but explain nothing to the consumer. Imagine the equipment people would not or would have bought if they understood what it does and how to use it. Every dsp company keeps everything murky but at the same time throw tech data at you like the average consumer helped build it or something. I appreciate this channel more than any mobile class I seen or been too
Thank you very much, that means a lot🥰
As always, very informative vid. The 1000hz/40hz method doesn’t work for me.
Nice video as always, keep up mate!
I love that you’re using the same oscilloscope that they trashed me in your group for using to set my gains 😂 Facebook users are some funny people, Mr. Nerijus. Thank you as always for what you do for the community.
In my opinion this got to be one of the first go to videos when starting a car audio project, nice one and we'll done sir
70 sek and you are alredy exsplaining it bether then most videos. 👍
So I’ve been doing wrong this whole time by automatically turning all the amp pots all the way up?
Lol how else would you adjust the volume?😂
@@RAW-CAt 😂😂
What are breath of fresh air. I've been preaching speaker efficiency/sensitivity and head room forever it seems like. Still people want to buy the hyped up brands they see on TH-cam thinking that's the only way to be loud. In my car I have a 400 watt amp on mids and highs, and a 1500 watt amp on one 12 inch sub. When people get in they're shocked at how loud and clean my stereo is. They ask what it meters and when I tell them. They say that's not possible with that much power and one 12. Terrific video, terrific channel!
Wow very informative going to turn mine down now. My HU puts out 4V and my jp84 is 6V
Sveikas tavo manymu kokį filtrą ir dazni parinkt štai šiam daigtui priešbosis Helix Match MW 8BMW-D nes mid 10cm rašo nuo 100hz startas bet spėju kad tai melas 😊
💯 best teacher ever
Morning Raw. What about compression and expansion while using an EQ? I've run into this issue myself and try to eq last.
What compression and expansion are you talking about exactly?
@@RAW-CAt basically as you know at every frequency there are layers of different sounds. Well when you add to a frequency it pulls the very top layers first causing uneven gain from the top
Layer to the bottom depending on level. Opposite is true for cutting. It basically smashes the layers together. I know this for a fact. For one I could hear it and afterwards dug into the topic. Real issue studios deal with. My daughter plays live music and is a communications major in college and we've talked about this subject and the audibly of it. I also know this is way outside most people's interests.
@@jonesaleroy I'm not sure that is an actual issue when having 24bit content and max cut and boosts of +/-10dB.
93dB sensitivity with 1 watt, EMMA SQ judging is at 85dB.
I clamped all the channels on my car at 104dB at the headrest, Mids and tweets less than 1W, midbass was 1W, front sub was 7W trunk baffle sub was 180W.
I have all my gains all the way down except for the subs, so I don't bother with them either.
I have a question though, if you adjust your gains after then doesn't that messes up your levels in your tune? So it's better to match DSP to amp at the beginning and just have headroom, like you said.
i think there are so many "adjusting gains" videos because people treat it as a volume knob.
It does mess up with the level matching indeed. It would be a back and forth game checking and adjusting. The only time I had to adjust the gains on an amplifier was after cutting midbass with EQ (to get rid of the cancellations) and then bringing the level up🤷
Thoughts on setting gain with a sweep over a singular sine wave let’s say a sweep 25-150 you make a smooth response with an O scope from let’s say your box is great from 32-60 hz so I make a smooth response as much output as possible without clipping from 30-80 with the sweep instead of just let’s say a singular sine wave 30 hz and a 40 hz because that would mean my music plays well from 30 through 80 with no clipping compared to just music that plays at 30 and 40hz. Been tuning all my subwoofers like this when it comes to gain it always sounds great compared to using independent tones just wanted your opinion.
In my opinion, there is no need to reinvent the wheel🤷 It does not matter what your subs or box is playing , for setting the gains all that matters is the electrical signal. And if using a DSP, that signal is clearly seen in the individual EQ window.
Do you prefer to tune with your phone or laptop? Waiting on my first official dsp to arrive (d4s ezdsp)
I always tune with a laptop. I use the phone to test some things, like different crossovers or muting drivers.
What if say my left mid bass eq is cut at 300hz and boost at 400hz . While right mid bass is boosted at 300 but cut at 400.
As per my response scenario and eq requirements.
But amplifier gain setting knob is common for these 2 channels.
What to do in that case?
You choose the "weakest link". See which OVERALL boost is higher, the 300 on R or 400 on L. As well take into account the channel gain. For example if your l side has +2dB overall boost at 400Hz and -3dB channel gain, you are -1dB in total for the l channel. And if your right side has +1dB overall boost at 300Hz and 0dB channel gain, then your R channel is higher in level, so you should choose 300Hz tone. Hope that makes sense. Just some maths😉
TLDW: Set gains on your sub maybe, everything else, until your ears bleed. (then maybe back it down. lol)
😂
Some give target voltage formula. √P*R .
Most of times it lands amp in clipping zone
Target voltage is valid only if the amplifier is true to the power ratings and you have a specific voltage on the power terminals.
Good morning Mr. Cat
Hello lovely people😀
What do i do when i am using optical and not rca into my DSP?
Exactly the same. A DSP 4V will output 4V no matter the connection to it.
Quick question. Isn't it the case that in order to use an oscilloscope and get correct readings from it (as well as from multimeter) you need to disconnect speakers from amps?
You can have the subs connected, but mids and tweets you will blow. I never recommend setting gains for mids and tweets, but since people keep asking, I made the video🤷
@@RAW-CAt yeah, thought the same. I just heard in the video that the speakers were playing
@@dahack1 no, they were not. It was the amplifier complaining when clipping 😉
@@RAW-CAt 🤨🤨 okay-ish 🙂
This is the one I was asking for.👍 Eager to watch it
I have the same oscilloscope model 😅
Hitting the like button straight away😊