I note your disclaimer of NOT to use a Grinder without guards and shields and that your video was a Demo only and that the guards were lost during moving. YET, 4 years later, your dangerous video is still available to view and remains unedited or remade.
While operating the grinder as I did is not safe, the technique still applies. Someday I'll update the video, when other things aren't taking priority.
The video is nice, but I cannot understand why some would want to grind on a high speed bench grinder. It simply is the wrong tool and it useless in a wood workshop. Wet grinders do not have to be expensive. You don't have to buy a Tormek. I own a $140 Sheppach and in my other workshop a Eur 67(!) lowest quality cheap wet/dry grinder. For the latter I had to build the support and tool holder myself. Granted, the lower the quality of the wet grinder, the more feeling you have to put into the grinding. But even then, what I do is less complicated as compared to what you do grinding more or less freehand on the high-speed grinder. My chisels are nicely hollow and perfectly square. If I pay the right attention of what I do of course. Given that many woodworkers are tool fetishists which spend hundreds of dollars on tools, I don't see why anyone would want to save on his sharpening tools. These are more important than cutting tools.
jlinkels Your prerogative of course. I prefer the high speed grinder. I can fix a nick or change a bevel angle in just a minute or two. With the right wheel and technique, I don’t overheat tools. Wet grinders are less likely to overheat an edge if you’re heavy handed. But they’re slow.
A high speed grinder is fine if you don’t overheat the tool. Even Rob Cosman has a video using one. A $50 high speed grinder is perfect for getting chisels and plane irons back in shape.
Thanks mate, that was a really helpful video!
Super useful. Thanks!
Thank you.
Thank You great presentation
Thanks for sharing how did you make the stand any pictures
Thank you for the great video. Do you recommand a 6 inch or 8 inch grinder?
6272marc Either one will work. I’ve used both and really have no preference.
I note your disclaimer of NOT to use a Grinder without guards and shields and that your video was a Demo only and that the guards were lost during moving. YET, 4 years later, your dangerous video is still available to view and remains unedited or remade.
While operating the grinder as I did is not safe, the technique still applies. Someday I'll update the video, when other things aren't taking priority.
Do you think we need to call the Police daphantom1?
Look likw the grinder is roting to the wrong side???.....
doctortono lol, it’s not
Intro is way too long, but thanks for the tips.
The video is nice, but I cannot understand why some would want to grind on a high speed bench grinder. It simply is the wrong tool and it useless in a wood workshop. Wet grinders do not have to be expensive. You don't have to buy a Tormek. I own a $140 Sheppach and in my other workshop a Eur 67(!) lowest quality cheap wet/dry grinder. For the latter I had to build the support and tool holder myself. Granted, the lower the quality of the wet grinder, the more feeling you have to put into the grinding. But even then, what I do is less complicated as compared to what you do grinding more or less freehand on the high-speed grinder. My chisels are nicely hollow and perfectly square. If I pay the right attention of what I do of course. Given that many woodworkers are tool fetishists which spend hundreds of dollars on tools, I don't see why anyone would want to save on his sharpening tools. These are more important than cutting tools.
jlinkels Your prerogative of course. I prefer the high speed grinder. I can fix a nick or change a bevel angle in just a minute or two. With the right wheel and technique, I don’t overheat tools. Wet grinders are less likely to overheat an edge if you’re heavy handed. But they’re slow.
A high speed grinder is fine if you don’t overheat the tool. Even Rob Cosman has a video using one. A $50 high speed grinder is perfect for getting chisels and plane irons back in shape.