How to Sharpen an Auger Bit
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- This is part of a video that originally aired on September 23, 2009. I spit the original video up into separate videos for better search optimization of the topics. This segment covers the sharpening of auger bits for a hand brace.
As an Electrician that hits nails pretty often, it gets expensive having to buy and buy and buy an Auger bit so often. I hope to master this sharpening method to save myself some money! Thank you!
same here..I'm an electrician and an in need of a new flex bit and hole hog bit, 100 bucks right there.
Greetings fellow pixie tamers, I use the Armeg beaver bits, really good but not the cheapest. I have a set of ezi-lap diamond files (set of 4) and touch them up every so often. I don't claim to be a sharpening master, but what I do it colour the cutting edge with a sharpie and as I sharpen the spurs the marker helps maintain the correct angle, colour between the different grits and they turn out decent. The files are not aggressive so remove little material so you can't really get it too wrong. I hope this is helpful 👍
Auger bits double as nail finders.
Great to see you are back. You are a great source of woodworking knowledge.
Thank you!
It’s a brave man who tries to get a fine powder into a small hole whilst talking on camera.
I’ve got about 20 second hand augers that all need sharpening and cleaning, that’s my next job on my newbie woodworking journey!
Love the technique for polishing the screw. Great to see you back!
I miss these videos, the entertainment centre and Porringer table was a great learning experience.
Before the wood whisperer, when TH-cam was still small
Thanks Philliip! I'm hoping to start making videos again in the next couple of months. But until then, I'm trying to clean up what is on the channel.
Found this great 'how to' so thought I'd subscribe and learn some other great techniques. Will be going through the lot, thanks for the vids.
Excellent explanation.
Thanks! You can use a Straw to 'pick up' the Graphite. Should be a size close that will help keep it 'neat'.
Thanks for the knowledge brother!
Great to see a new post!
Thanks! Not really a new video though. I made this video back in 2009. It was part of another video that I split up into multiple shorter videos for better searching. Hopefully I will have some actual new videos soon though.
I just polished the screw on my 7/8 Irwin, and now I can bore through hickory again! I think all of the larger ones will get the same treatment...
I can't not learn anytime I hear or see Bob.
May the Schwarz be with us all.
Thank you!
popsicle sticks....brilliant
I wish I knew the difference between the "spurs" and cutting lips...I thought there was only one sharp edge or cutting edge all the way down the spiral ?
Would be helpful if you can re-do this video in 1080p resolution instead of the 360 from a 1990s video camera. So blurry, you really can't see much.
Cool trick the one of the thread
Throw some painters tape on the wood, before putting the hole in. Dump the dust in the hole, and then remove the tape.
I used this video to sharpen my auger bits successfully. What a difference. Nice clean hole. I put a thick backer on the exit side to mitigate tear out. With two clamps. However, each time I did a hole, it still tore out. Hard wood. Why? Please help.
Hard to say. Could be the bit. Some auger bits are more suited to softwoods. If the lead screw is too coarse for hardwoods it pulls the bit through too fast and the wood could still blow out on the exit side.
When I need a clean hole on both sides I will bore mostly from one side until the point of the lead screw just barely breaks through the back side. Then I remove the bit from the hole and finish the hole from the other side of the work. I’ve found this to work best for me.
@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking great suggestion. Thank you Bob, for a great video and a fine reply. I'll be doing that from now on (reverse the work). Best, G
@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking @thehandtoolworks Hi. I have another piece of advice I'd like to ask. I am using a semi sharpened (not my best work admittedly) 3/8 bit to drill a hole whose centre is 3/4 inch away from the end of my stock. I am using round stock thats fairly wet to drill into. A project I am into. Each time I drill with the brace, the wood cracks horizontally when the bit reaches between 1/2-3/4 of the way through the hole. I am not using undue pressure, and I am going very slowly. The wood types are all different, including maple. Any advice here? I'll admit to being disappointed and a little bit frustrated. Help? Thank you.
Try putting a clamp across the end of the work. You’re boring quite close to the end of the stock and the leverage you have is quite significant. Putting a clamp across the work will support the fragile end.
Alternatively, bore the hole in the work before cutting it to final length. Leave significant extra length to support the boring step. Then once the hole is bored you can cut to final length.
@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking that's a great idea. A hose clamp would work given it's round. It cut it longer to start. Really appreciate your help here Bob. What a great aid you have been 👍. Wonderful community.