How to Sharpen a Chisel using Waterstones and a DMT Dia-Flat Lapping Plate
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2011
- Morton provides a thorough run-through of one way to sharpen your chisels using a grinder, a set of Norton waterstones, and a DMT Dia-Flat lapping plate. This process gives a hollow-grind to the bevel of the chisel (on the grinder), making it easier to reference on the waterstones. The waterstones are kept dead-flat using the DMT Dia-Flat diamond lapping plate.
Find more information and purchase a waterstone at Highland Woodworking:
www.highlandwoodworking.com/wa...
www.highlandwoodworking.com/wa...
Check out the DMT Dia-Flat Lapping Plate:
www.highlandwoodworking.com/dm...
More Sharpening Tools at Highland Woodworking
www.highlandwoodworking.com/sh...
Wondering why your plane or chisel isn't working? Read about fixing it up at the Highland Woodworking Blog:
blog.woodworkingtooltips.com/2... - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Great demonstration. Makes me realise that I'm going to have to spend some time to sharpen my chisel set.
Hola, Mike. Yo, pensaba que afilaba bien mis herramientas hasta que vi tu técnica y me di cuenta que soy un bruto. Lo explicas muy bien.
Gracias y saludos de Chile.
just bought my "first" Diamond Stone today.Brilliant vid ...just what I needed.Cant wait to have a sharp chisel at last! Thanks for posting. Cheers Bro......Happy chiseling
Wow, this was very clear and helpful. Thank you.
The higher grits used to sharpen, the smaller the scratch marks, which makes the intersection of the back/front more crisp, leading to a sharper edge. Chisels straight from the factory are "polished" up to a certain point - and better manufacturers use higher grits. But if you have finer stones than what they used, you will improve the edge further.
Hi Kiki, The Norton combination waterstones that Morton uses are currently available at Highland for $37.99 for the 220x/1000x, and $83.99 for the 4000x/8000x, and the Dia-Flat Diamond Plate is currently listed at $184.99.
Excellently explained! Thanks for sharing.
quick tip: a cinder block does an awesome job of flattening the stone. That's what I use.
Thak's for you tip's... Now I hope you put a new Battery in that smoke alarm .
@matthewlramsey You want to be careful breaking the burr off as that can leave a jagged edge at the tip, which results in an edge that will not be as sharp and will wear more quickly. When you "chase the burr" as it's called, you lever it off gently (with back and forth bending) leaving a crisp edge when it falls off.
@MrAcronim The 4000/8000 stone was somewhere around $70 when I got it. A little pricey, but it'll last you forever. The 220 stone has worn for me pretty quickly, though after a couple of years it still has plenty of life. But the 4000/8000 stone hasn't lost any thickness in a couple of years. You do handfuls of strokes on it - so it wears pretty slowly. And a combo is a great way to go so you can quickly move through the grits, just like sandpaper.
Mike thank you very much for your answer. Why, when I tried to put oil and oil "disappear." Old times, I had a black stone that uses oil over it.Sharpening my chisels and cutting like razor sharp now!!!!!!!!!!
that was very nice &also very well explained bravo for a great video worth watching
I'm on my second set of Norton combination water stones and was disappointed to find an extensive area of open structure after about 3 mm below the surface. This makes the 4000g side unuseable. I have not looked back since changing to Shapton pro stones. They are worth every cent.
Yeah - really great idea to start with the diamond stone when you have significant metal to remove. I'd still go from there to 220, as it's probably faster than going straight to the 1000. Good catch.
Great! Thanks so much for sharing. Huge help.
Works for me, start on a coarse/fine diamond plate until it's flat then just remove the scratches and polish and all that with minimal "damage" to the water stone, try that and put it on a video. BTW, that goes for plane blades too.
Cheers.
great video thanks for posting
This is a great video! I sharpen my own chisels much like this except i do it with natural stones and I don't use a grinder. I just keep going much like you do to make the entire front flat on a coarse stone, and work through the medium and fine stones. I also have a translucent fine stone for final polishing of my blades. It really gives em a mirror finish. Have you ever tried to strop your chisels with leather or steel to straighten the burr?
I like your hollow grind method, seems to me some kind of wet stone on the grinder might stop it getting too hot(I don't mean a water stone). Over here in England Norton only supply Oil stones, all the water stones are made in Japan and need to be immersed in water for several hours before use.
Great video...Oh by the way-That beeping noise in the background,is that your smoke alarm.Change your battery in your smoke alarm.
Couldn't you eliminate the back and forth of flipping the burr by cutting into the stone? Most of the time, whether it be knives or chisels, I do my finish edge work into the stone, not away from it, essentially cutting the burr, not moving it around... not sure if this would deliver different results... just wondering.
Because you have to fettle and sharpen it; they are not good to go from the box - that is a mistake I made and so do many people. Woodworking is not 'instant-on'. It takes time to do stuff and you learn patience; there are no real shortcuts to doing good work. That is why flat-packs are made :)
The video way is easier today with machined flat backs.Not perfectly flat but near enough. But with Old Sheffield blades you can see backs with rounded edges and along the chisel there can be a Twist.Lay the back on a diamond plate and you find a high spot near the handle and a shiny spot on one side of the bevel end ,diagonally opposite. If you rub down that high spot (with a dremel ) near the handle ,you can use the ruler trick the same way they use on plane blades . That will create a narrow 1.5 degree bevel with a straight shiny surface at the edge. So is that wrong? Compare it with a Japanese chisel where the handle is not lined up with the blade . Mostly the Japanese blade back can lay flat on the surface and the handle stays up out of the way. Japanese history shows that Wooden Houses were the normal thing and a chisel back flat on the surface was very useful . So a tiny 1.5 degree angle is not a problem .It`s a hand tool and not a machine component .
Now , over some years with the video method the front end of the back will have developed a curve .Obviously ,because the front has been rubbed more than the rest of the back .It will create a curve . But with a 1.5 degree using the handle end as a guide the angle will hardly change . That`s a long term comparison .
nice
I use Norton water stones which don't need to be stored in water. But unfortunately they do need to be soaked for about 10-15 minutes prior to use. The higher grits don't need soaking quite as long, but the coarse stones definitely soak up the water ;)
Wow
Awesome
When you buy a new chisel (or plane or carving tool) it is ground to shape but not to a properly sharp edge. It may feel sharp to your fingertip, but is a long way from sharp enough to cut hardwood cleanly.
great vid there isn't a lot like this on youtube! how much was your 4000-8000 sone
Very good video, but how much the stones and stone flatener?
good vid. useful info. nice comparison at the end
Ah, right - that'd work. I only have a Dia-Flat Diamond plate, which can be use directly on chisels/plane blades - but it leaves a pretty coarse scratch pattern. Of course, various diamond plates can be used instead of water stones and don't have to be flattened ;) There's a lotta ways to skin that cat....
How do you wet the stone. Is necessary storage it in the water?
Have you every considered using metal polish and a leather strop to go one step further
for a knife it's great, but for chisels, i don't think that is necessary. although it may be a nice option for maintenance during work. do a few cuts or chips, strop it, bit more work, bit more stropping. that way it never gets dull. but stilll a noob with chisels myself. knives are m thing mostly. now that i think of it i'm gonna have to make a field strop.
You know, the stone really doesn't move on the pad I use - if it did rock at all, I would be worried about rounding my edges as the stone moved relative to the blade. Find something that supports the stone so it doesn't slide around, but not too soft that it flexes as you work.
Great video!
8000 is great to finish, but I've heard of joiners making furniture using 30,000 which for my job is a bit more than i need
hello, do I need to use the hollow grind method?
If I understood correctly this is just used to be able to better see the polishing result?
Could I sharpen the chisel by just going through the different grits of stones?
Also, do you do any kind of end polishing with a piece of leather or does this not apply to the water sharpening method?
thank you!
Hello. Yes, chisels can be sharpened using just a stone and without a bench grinder. It just takes longer since you have to hone the entire bevel and not just the heel and toe of the cutting edge like with a hollow ground edge.
where do you find the money for all these expensive tools
The tough part of free handing it on a stone is keeping the edge perfectly squared up. Oh well. At least I can get it reasonably sharp. lol
I was running around my house trying to figure out which one was beeping.
Why is it when ever a new chisel or plane or even hand cutting dovetails is being demonstrated why is pine the wood of choice. I think we all no the answer to that so why not going across end grain making the nice curls on curly maple??
Wrong direction.
Never grind chisels on bench grinder! Just take chisel as it is from factory, get flat back and keep original bevel flat no hollow or convex and your chisel will cut even better than you shown + stropping on leather strop with some good compound and it will be perfect! You can use a power strop and buffing wheel to get better polish and to get it razor sharp quicker while you are working, but that's all! You don't need any other power tools!
Check this video:Preparing and sharpening a woodworking chisel - with Paul Sellers
agreed, so much use of power tools today. The basics are faltering.
+Nicholas Vaters Thanks! Grinding a hollow bevel is good but if you do it on tormek machine with water cooling. So no risk to burn. When you got hollow just take your 6000 grit Japanese stone and hone the bevel like it would be flat. Than you will get a hollow middle and two flats. One is the cutting edge and one is the end of the bevel. Than chisel will cut better because cutting edge is razor-sharp and less friction because of the hollow part.
Ivars ya myself I will stick to wet stones. can't afford the power tools and such so i'm looking into hand tools i can get for cheap or free.... i do have access ot my pops tols though and a drill press i bought off ebay last year for fairly cheap. and a busted rotary tool which i'm thinkin of turning into a lathe or something.
finally someone knows to grind and sharpen a chisel....whats with all these guys using a beltsander?????
Belt sanders are great for getting the initial shape.
No disrespect to your intent, if you already have a diamond stone, why not flatten your chisel/s on that and you don't have to worry about re-flattening your water stone all the time, progress to 1000/8000 after it's flat, make you life easier.
Cheers...
Put a new battery in your smoke detector. . .the constant beeping is annoying.
I don't understand why your sharpening a brand new chisel?
because the manufacturers don't use the higher grits that shops have. Take a new chisel out of the box and test it on end-grain soft wood. Try to shave a thin layer off the end. Then polish it using the techniques described here. Then test it again. You will be surprised at how much sharper it is.
One of the worst ways to sharpen a tool..... Anyways ignorance is a powerful tool for internet. Nowadays knowledge is not a value, the only worth is viral stuff, likes, followers, popularity....... Just the opposite to true high-end carpentry, so sad
nice