Thank you so much for this info. I went to go swap out the horn relay and found my starter relay wasn’t even pushed all the way in. Truck started 6 times in a row. I had to get it towed thinking my truck was due for a $700 repair. You literally saved me. I just moved and lord knows I didn’t have $700!! I owe you a beer!
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉 you was right I was about to change my starter, but it happened to be the relay Thank you so much for this information. God bless you bro. 👏👏👏👍
Thank you the information you gave was very helpful diagnosing my wife's 2015 Cadillac Escalade ESV. I'll reiterate that your way of describing the steps to take towards the goal of fixing the problem was spot on for my particular problem I ran into. Again it was simple and to the point. Esp compared to the other so called help videos out there... They tend to err on the fluff, fluff side, with the only usable knowledge, is thrown in like a wiffle ball, because one can never tell exactly where it's going to go? Good day to you Sir.
Please check y’all’s shifter and make sure its in park, mines was ever so slightly in reverse but mostly in park. Saved me a ton 😅, I heard sometimes trying to start it in neutral could work, and that could be a neutral safety switch that is bad
I recommend just the hot wire method. I’ve had fuel pump relays in the past that click and give proper oms when under power but for some reason don’t have the heart to punch the fuel pump. Hot wire is a simple yes or no instantly.
Thank you! Mine is intermittent starting, half thought the car was possessed since it started cranking randomly while left parked, going to investigate and see if it could be the relay
@@TrustChrist21 most likely it's either your fusebox or gem module on the back of the box. Mine was from a bad seal on the windshield, water traveled down the firewall and followed the wires, when I pulled off the fusebox it had a ton of corrosion on the connectors. Gem module looked clean so I slapped a good fusebox on and it was good to go, replaced my starter to be safe though
I've had the "no start", with clicking sounds, a couple of times. Car started right up after having battery jumped. I thought it was a bad battery, but after having it checked, it was fine. Starter and alternator also seem to be in good condition. Starter relay, is the last thing I can think of.
Tested my starter and it works, tried to charge and jump the car and I still get the clicks. Going to rip out the starter relay now and see if I can test it or get a new one
@@pettypabloI don’t even get clicks. If I turn my key in the ignition is has no problem turning but absolutely no noises come on. No crank, no turn over, no clicks. My dash lights, headlights, and radio will all come on but the car won’t even try to start. Wish me luck man 😂
Did you ever find out what was causing the starter to be engaging I have the same problem every time I go to turn the key the starter comes on by it self and it won't let me crank over
Hello, great video can this relay cause the radio clock to reset while the key is turned to turn on the engine and you here a click and the clock resets not the radio stations that are saved ? Thanks for the info.
This is my problem. After my car sits over night, I turn my key and hold it there for 5 seconds with no sound and then it starts. After that it starts up perfectly fine for the rest of the day until it sits over night and I repeat the process. I'm looking at getting a starter relay in hopes that is my problem. I had my battery tested and it's good. I had an ODB test run on my car and had no issues pop up. Any suggestions?
@@7ate9100times Thank you. It was a $1,000 problem since the starter in the middle of the engine behind the exhaust manifold. After that, while I'm driving home, my alternator starts frying itself out lol. I replaced that too. When it rains, it pours.
I’m getting power to my relay on one leg from the battery. I’m getting power on the pin next to it when I turn the key switch, but it’s not transmitting to the other to pins, why? I can hear the relay click but for some reason it isn’t transferring the power to the other 2 pins. Please explain this
2015 Ford Transit 250 Cargo Van 3.7L continual fail to start issues. All start with Air Evap Code, consistently related to water in the air box or just wet or damp air filter. Usually, cleaning or replacing the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, the air filter gets it started. And did get it started and running for about 200 miles. Then I stopped over night. Every single time wet snow melts it goes onto the MAF and into the air filter housing. Normally I cover the the engine with tarp and the hood with tarp or go south. About 10 days ago Mid Apr 2924 a totally unexpected amount of heavy wet snow fell over night in Utah. The van would not start. Not the normal no start, it tried to start but wouldn't. Followed the routine up to and including new MAF and air filter. It started felt just slightly off a barely noticeable kinda difference in the feel of the idle. Now it will not start. Going to be a $743 CAD dollar tow to a Ford Service Shop, that can only offer to try to diagnose in-between scheduled service for customers. I live in the van, I am broke down about 180 miles south of the border. The tow alone will cost $745 CAD A couple of mechanics have pounded on the fuel pump while I try to start the van. They don't hear the fuel pump try to start. They say the fuel pump and fuel pump modulator are likely the cause of fail to start. They say only Ford has the computer devise to program a new starter and new modulator so that those two pcs communicate with each other and the computer? It tries to start, the first try in the morning. Subsequent attempts to start it through the same day, the starter engages but doesn't give that momentary sound that seems like it is going to fire. No doubt I could be totally wrong. But I think it is a Fuse, solenoid, relay or some other electrical type bit. I can see what a broken Fuse looks like, but will need to test solenoids and such. I have check the regular blade type fuses in the Fuse block under the hood. I am studying the manual and see that there are three other Fuse block type things. I will hunt them down. Diagrams in the manual show the shapof each Fuse block and identify the stuff inside. But nothing in the manual to show where they are. I think one might be behind the glove box. I will find them, eventually, check and replace whatever looks like it should be replace to the extent of my limited knowledge and comprehension. Any easy checks I could do or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you and You Tube ❤
I've also had me start car go somewhere get back in start car and it would just crank over no start. And it happened again took battery terminal off restarted computer put back on and it started????
I have a 94 integra ls and when I went to start car sometimes I would have to jig key a little and heard clicking under dash and then it would start. I think it a starter Lelay. It also might be my ignition switch. Idk gonna look into that tomorrow
Question..when the starter on my Tundra hang up in the “crank” mode till I turn the key off but the engine doesn’t start, could that be a bad starter solenoid?
A bad starter solenoid won't cause the engine to not start just not crank over. When a solenoid goes bad it will not crank the engine. For example, if the vehicle is a stick shift it can be pushed started with a bad starter solenoid.
My truck is 2004 Chevy 5.3. It is doing this same thing except it only does it when the engine warms up in hot weather. And it will eventually start right up after it cools down. It done this all last summer. Ok. It never missed one time starting this past winter. When the weather outside warmed up this summer it started doing the same thing. Just after it warms up and it will and has always started right up after it cools down. Usually 30 min or so. Please help. It’s been aggravating. Thanks
It will need to be diagnosed since many things can cause that issue. Are there any codes? If there is, they will help point to the problem. Some causes are vapor lock or a component such as an ignition relay that is bad when it gets hot but works when cold.
@@HVAC_Mechanic is the ignition relay same as starter relay? No codes. When first checked no power to the starter. Pecked on starter then got power to starter and it started only clicking which it had never done before. Putting on a new starter now. Hopefully fixes the problem. But this issue has been going on for the past 2 summers and it always started after it cooled down. And I have changed the starter relay and it didn’t change anything.
Thanks for the video, a question , my matrix 2009 starter stay engaged one second after the engine run , what could be the problem thanks to answer me back
I have a 2015 chevy ss I was replacing my crank shaft sensor on my car. (It's directly above the starter, so I had to remove the starter to get to it) When reinstalling the starter, I accidently touched some of metal framing underneath the car wit the starter's positive wire, while the starter had power going thru it, trying to get it back up in its spot (I forgot to disconnect the battery during the whole ideal.. foolish of me) and now my car won't start. It's almost as if my ECU got fried or something. I tried using a brand new test light on the fuse box under the hood, to see if I was getting any power to any of the fuses with the car in the "on position", but the test light never lit up. I tried bypassing the starter relay with small jump wire, and still nothing happened. I've yet to take the starter off, test or replace it. I just wanted some feedback on my issue
When the power shorts out it can cause issues and be problematic sometimes to fix since a lot of components can be damaged. Usually, a fuse or relay has blown but sometimes it can also damage the computers or wiring. I would start by getting a schematic and check all the main fuses. There should be a big main fuse in the fuse box along with fusible links.
I was just about to climb under my 97 4Runner to try and remove the starter, I decided to order a new relay instead. It will be here this afternoon and we’ll see if that was the problem.
Thank you so much for this info. I went to go swap out the horn relay and found my starter relay wasn’t even pushed all the way in. Truck started 6 times in a row. I had to get it towed thinking my truck was due for a $700 repair. You literally saved me. I just moved and lord knows I didn’t have $700!! I owe you a beer!
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉 you was right I was about to change my starter, but it happened to be the relay Thank you so much for this information. God bless you bro. 👏👏👏👍
Great job on the video. To the point and concise. No silly banter about your pet or something. Thanks for the great info!
Thank you the information you gave was very helpful diagnosing my wife's 2015 Cadillac Escalade ESV.
I'll reiterate that your way of describing the steps to take towards the goal of fixing the problem was spot on for my particular problem I ran into.
Again it was simple and to the point.
Esp compared to the other so called help videos out there...
They tend to err on the fluff, fluff side, with the only usable knowledge, is thrown in like a wiffle ball, because one can never tell exactly where it's going to go?
Good day to you Sir.
Very informative, logic, easy to understand explanation - greatly appreciated
Please check y’all’s shifter and make sure its in park, mines was ever so slightly in reverse but mostly in park. Saved me a ton 😅, I heard sometimes trying to start it in neutral could work, and that could be a neutral safety switch that is bad
I recommend just the hot wire method. I’ve had fuel pump relays in the past that click and give proper oms when under power but for some reason don’t have the heart to punch the fuel pump. Hot wire is a simple yes or no instantly.
Thank you! Mine is intermittent starting, half thought the car was possessed since it started cranking randomly while left parked, going to investigate and see if it could be the relay
What was the problem? Mine is doing this
@@TrustChrist21 most likely it's either your fusebox or gem module on the back of the box. Mine was from a bad seal on the windshield, water traveled down the firewall and followed the wires, when I pulled off the fusebox it had a ton of corrosion on the connectors. Gem module looked clean so I slapped a good fusebox on and it was good to go, replaced my starter to be safe though
Great video. Informative and to the point. Thanks 👍
I've had the "no start", with clicking sounds, a couple of times. Car started right up after having battery jumped. I thought it was a bad battery, but after having it checked, it was fine. Starter and alternator also seem to be in good condition. Starter relay, is the last thing I can think of.
Clicking sound for me has always resulted in a bad starter motor, not sure how much that helps you.
@@colinmoore68
Thanks.
Tested my starter and it works, tried to charge and jump the car and I still get the clicks. Going to rip out the starter relay now and see if I can test it or get a new one
So frustrating. I still suspect the starter, which can work occasionally and make you look elsewhere. @@pettypablo
@@pettypabloI don’t even get clicks. If I turn my key in the ignition is has no problem turning but absolutely no noises come on. No crank, no turn over, no clicks. My dash lights, headlights, and radio will all come on but the car won’t even try to start. Wish me luck man 😂
Very helpful. Ty. I love my truck. Heirloom. But damn if I didn’t have some bad words for her. Made me late for work again!
Great video great job 👍 thanks brother...
Can I swap the starter relay and one that is the same on a 2011 Mercedes gl450 ?
Very good lesson, the starter is engaging even while the key is out and I disconnect the battery,what do you think is the problem?
Did you ever find out what was causing the starter to be engaging I have the same problem every time I go to turn the key the starter comes on by it self and it won't let me crank over
Thank you
I appreciate how informative this is! TH-cam university lol
I have fault with my starting system so could you please show me the location for starter relay for toyota hiace bus
great stuff!
Hello, great video can this relay cause the radio clock to reset while the key is turned to turn on the engine and you here a click and the clock resets not the radio stations that are saved ? Thanks for the info.
Wiring issues can be caused by many different things, so while the starter relay should not affect the radio, it may be possible.
This is my problem. After my car sits over night, I turn my key and hold it there for 5 seconds with no sound and then it starts. After that it starts up perfectly fine for the rest of the day until it sits over night and I repeat the process. I'm looking at getting a starter relay in hopes that is my problem. I had my battery tested and it's good. I had an ODB test run on my car and had no issues pop up. Any suggestions?
Update to my problem. The solenoid was going out on my starter. I replaced my starter and I have no more issues.
@@Moon-Rocksglad you figured it out
@@7ate9100times Thank you. It was a $1,000 problem since the starter in the middle of the engine behind the exhaust manifold. After that, while I'm driving home, my alternator starts frying itself out lol. I replaced that too. When it rains, it pours.
@@Moon-Rocks always how it is. Least you figured it out before it costed a kidney!🤘🏽
@@7ate9100times very true. Didn't get stranded and saved money since I did not need a tow truck
I’m getting power to my relay on one leg from the battery. I’m getting power on the pin next to it when I turn the key switch, but it’s not transmitting to the other to pins, why? I can hear the relay click but for some reason it isn’t transferring the power to the other 2 pins. Please explain this
2015 Ford Transit 250 Cargo Van 3.7L continual fail to start issues. All start with Air Evap Code, consistently related to water in the air box or just wet or damp air filter. Usually, cleaning or replacing the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, the air filter gets it started. And did get it started and running for about 200 miles. Then I stopped over night.
Every single time wet snow melts it goes onto the MAF and into the air filter housing. Normally I cover the the engine with tarp and the hood with tarp or go south.
About 10 days ago Mid Apr 2924 a totally unexpected amount of heavy wet snow fell over night in Utah. The van would not start. Not the normal no start, it tried to start but wouldn't.
Followed the routine up to and including new MAF and air filter. It started felt just slightly off a barely noticeable kinda difference in the feel of the idle.
Now it will not start. Going to be a $743 CAD dollar tow to a Ford Service Shop, that can only offer to try to diagnose in-between scheduled service for customers.
I live in the van, I am broke down about 180 miles south of the border.
The tow alone will cost $745 CAD
A couple of mechanics have pounded on the fuel pump while I try to start the van. They don't hear the fuel pump try to start. They say the fuel pump and fuel pump modulator are likely the cause of fail to start. They say only Ford has the computer devise to program a new starter and new modulator so that those two pcs communicate with each other and the computer?
It tries to start, the first try in the morning. Subsequent attempts to start it through the same day, the starter engages but doesn't give that momentary sound that seems like it is going to fire.
No doubt I could be totally wrong. But I think it is a Fuse, solenoid, relay or some other electrical type bit.
I can see what a broken Fuse looks like, but will need to test solenoids and such. I have check the regular blade type fuses in the Fuse block under the hood.
I am studying the manual and see that there are three other Fuse block type things. I will hunt them down. Diagrams in the manual show the shapof each Fuse block and identify the stuff inside. But nothing in the manual to show where they are. I think one might be behind the glove box.
I will find them, eventually, check and replace whatever looks like it should be replace to the extent of my limited knowledge and comprehension.
Any easy checks I could do or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you and You Tube ❤
I've also had me start car go somewhere get back in start car and it would just crank over no start. And it happened again took battery terminal off restarted computer put back on and it started????
What does it mean if I switch the 2 similar relays and it still doesn’t work/start?
If the relay is good, the issue is something else, such as wiring or a bad starter.
Cant you just use a relay tester?
my 2018 jeep compass starter fuse always blow up, what could be the problem
I have problem with my van 2007 ford f350 don’t stared any noise, before that the van shake, and don’t change the speeds. Can you help me please!
I have a 94 integra ls and when I went to start car sometimes I would have to jig key a little and heard clicking under dash and then it would start. I think it a starter Lelay. It also might be my ignition switch. Idk gonna look into that tomorrow
Excellent job
Question..when the starter on my Tundra hang up in the “crank” mode till I turn the key off but the engine doesn’t start, could that be a bad starter solenoid?
A bad starter solenoid won't cause the engine to not start just not crank over. When a solenoid goes bad it will not crank the engine. For example, if the vehicle is a stick shift it can be pushed started with a bad starter solenoid.
I thought this was one of the purposes of the starter solenoid?
If there are no power coming on when I try and started it but I have a new battery and starter I don't know what to do
If the battery is good, check all the terminal connections are good and that there is no blown fuses or relays.
My truck is 2004 Chevy 5.3. It is doing this same thing except it only does it when the engine warms up in hot weather. And it will eventually start right up after it cools down. It done this all last summer. Ok. It never missed one time starting this past winter. When the weather outside warmed up this summer it started doing the same thing. Just after it warms up and it will and has always started right up after it cools down. Usually 30 min or so. Please help. It’s been aggravating. Thanks
It will need to be diagnosed since many things can cause that issue. Are there any codes? If there is, they will help point to the problem. Some causes are vapor lock or a component such as an ignition relay that is bad when it gets hot but works when cold.
@@HVAC_Mechanic is the ignition relay same as starter relay? No codes. When first checked no power to the starter. Pecked on starter then got power to starter and it started only clicking which it had never done before. Putting on a new starter now. Hopefully fixes the problem. But this issue has been going on for the past 2 summers and it always started after it cooled down. And I have changed the starter relay and it didn’t change anything.
How many ohms should a starter relay show
Thanks for the video, a question ,
my matrix 2009 starter stay engaged one second after the engine run , what could be the problem thanks to answer me back
It is likely the solenoid staying engaged too long or a mechanical issue with the starter/flywheel.
Multi meter only tool to use?
My languege is beginner I love this technician what do I please help me bro
Great freaking info brother love saver genius you know how lomg.ima brag about this knowledge thanks brother
What if the car tryna start it an it sound like it chokin like it want to turn over an it don’t at all could that be the fuel pump or starter?
If the engine turns over, it is not the starter. If it is turning over and not starting, then it could be fuel or spark and will need to be diagnosed.
I have a 2013 chrysler 200. Wen I turn it over its a clicking noise. Then after awhile it crank. Wat the problem might be
Starter itself is going out get it tested for free at a parts store
I think I have a ignition switch problem
By the way it’s a 2010 Cadillac Escalade
Good info. But man, you talk fast! 😀
I have a 2015 chevy ss
I was replacing my crank shaft sensor on my car. (It's directly above the starter, so I had to remove the starter to get to it)
When reinstalling the starter, I accidently touched some of metal framing underneath the car wit the starter's positive wire, while the starter had power going thru it, trying to get it back up in its spot (I forgot to disconnect the battery during the whole ideal.. foolish of me) and now my car won't start. It's almost as if my ECU got fried or something. I tried using a brand new test light on the fuse box under the hood, to see if I was getting any power to any of the fuses with the car in the "on position", but the test light never lit up. I tried bypassing the starter relay with small jump wire, and still nothing happened. I've yet to take the starter off, test or replace it. I just wanted some feedback on my issue
When the power shorts out it can cause issues and be problematic sometimes to fix since a lot of components can be damaged. Usually, a fuse or relay has blown but sometimes it can also damage the computers or wiring. I would start by getting a schematic and check all the main fuses. There should be a big main fuse in the fuse box along with fusible links.
But now no start and no crank battery good and alternator??
So if my starter just clicks ?
O my integra is 5 speed
Thank you
I was just about to climb under my 97 4Runner to try and remove the starter, I decided to order a new relay instead. It will be here this afternoon and we’ll see if that was the problem.
Hi I have intermittent starting I replaced battery on my 2019 Toyota Tacoma