This was an EXCELLENT video Nerdy! What I see a lot of other painters do is they talk briefly over what colors they use and how they will apply it and then spend the rest of the time painting the mech. Yeah it works for those who need a visual (Like myself), but I always felt it was lacking a bit on the technical parts. Like HOW much to paint, or WHERE to paint certain colors on. This was awesome! Thank you Nerdy.
Thanks glad you enjoyed! If I could ask: What technical parts of the video did you find most useful? I want to make sure to include more tips like it in future videos.
@@nerdyOveranalyzed How you dry brush and how you showed a diagram on where you're putting certain paints. For example, when you painted the PPC's, you showed where you put a little white to have that glistening effect. Also, I appreciate the fact that you used speed paints almost like they are regular paints. I started out with the AP speedpaints and most people were saying to not paint over them nor use them over a base paint. Either that or they didn't say to do so. It always felt that with the speed paints, you are just "painting within the lines" and to not do anything else with it. If you want camo designs or more in depth looks, then use other paints. You showed that you can do that with the speed paints and it has motivated me to use them more.
Haha, that outro song got me. A quick add-on to this: sealing your paint job! It's always recommended to use a sealer/finisher spray paint over the whole model, especially if you expect to be playing with it frequently on the tabletop. A matte finish spray from your local hobby store should do just fine.
Perrrrrrfect! I have an endless supply of eye-makeup brushes and sponges. My whammy 6D will have the MOST FABULOUS turbo need eyelashes this side of the periphery
Amazing results! The BW company scheme is iconic for a reason, super nice and clean. For the cockpit. I've had some good results with Turbo Dork's line of metallics and color shifts. Especially with a 'mech using a black base color, which really helps to give depth and shine to the glass effect. Definitely worth it imo.
Mmh yeah! I've been wanting to get into doing more metallics. I hear you can get some decent results with the Army Painter Speed Paint over a metal but I'd have to experiment more. Thanks for your feedback!
fun tidbit: you could also do the drybrushing step before the speedpaint/contrast step. The translucent-ish speedpaint/contrast paints will let the different undercoats show through. It usually ends up as a less chalkly and a more subtle effect, so pick what you like best - but it is a little more beginner friendly as the nature of speedpaints will hide mistakes made while drybrushing (and/or, if you're feeling spicy, applying edge highlights).
Hmm interesting! Yeah I did see that the highlight step ended up a bit chalky on a few of the mechs I did using this technique. Interesting. I might try it out later.
@@nerdyOveranalyzed Heavy drybrushing can often look chalky (greys, ivories and whites are especially prone to this, sometimes even with a moderate application). Sometimes this is great! e.g. when painting rocks or dust effects. Other times not so much. Removing even more paint from the brush and slowly doing light passes can help avoiding it, but it can be a bit tricky. Another alternative to avoid/reduce chalkyness is doing an edge highlight (either after a drybrush or just straight-on). Unfortunately edge highlighting can be quite daunting on the CGL minis and requires quite a bit more time and patience than a drybrushing pass, but some people really enjoy the process. Using glazes, washes or inks can reduce the appearance of chalkyness after-the-fact, but mileage varies a lot depending on which paints are in use. Of these methods, underpainting the drybrush beneath the speedpaint is by far the fastest and probably most beginner-friendly once you get past the slightly counter-intuitive order of application.
@@nerdyOveranalyzed What also helps against the chalkiness of drybrushing is not using a paper towel to wipe the paint off on. Paper towels absorb a lot of the moisture of the paint that remains which produces the chalky effect. This is especially apparent with light greys and whites. Instead you should use a texture palette which is basically a large textured surface that's not your mini. You can buy them online for pretty cheap but you can also make your own. I made mine from a piece of thick cardboard, a coat of PVA glue and then covered half with fine aquarium sand and the other half with a mixture of that sand with some small 2-4mm rocks also for aquariums. Very cheap and if the fine sand becomes too loaded with paint I just apply another coat of glue and sand.
I appreciate the commitment to the bit by using gloves. They must make it more difficult to manipulate the brush but you got a great look on the mini anyway.
its looking great :) I also use rustoleum primer although my black one is a bit dark (ironic lol) even with white drybrush. Really liked how you broke down the painting thought process.
Awesome video Nerdy, pretty useful and to the point! I was wondering if you can recomend me some units with polar/arctic color schemes for the clan and spheroids of the alpha strike box. And thanks for your amazing content 🤘🤘 cheers!
Hey great work! Always love to see more content for the miniatures game and this looks like a good scheme to get a good 'tabletop ready+' for your mech lances quickly! Two small critiques: later in in the video you breeze through some detail sections and briefly mention using glazing techniques- maybe go over that quickly like you did drybrushing as it's another method of painting that requires proper technique to pull off. Also some of the paints you used in this video are either discontinued (Citadel no longer produces lamenters yellow), have significant availability problems (P3 l's stuff is consistently difficult to get my hands on), or have comperable/better alternatives (citadel produces a Martian Ironearth, a crackle paint with very similar coloring to your finished product). Similar to what you did with the grey you used for the drybrush you might want to give a general color as well as the specific paint you used unless it's something like speed paint with very particular properties.
Yeah they discontinued the yellow which I didn't realize until after I painted it. I'll have to figure out a new formula. What's available in your region FLGS? Army Painter and Citadel? I saw P3 on Amazon. Maybe I'll start standardizing to one brand for the more common paints.
@Nerdy Overanalyzed locally I can easily get my hands on citadel and army painter. My lgs has some p3 starters available but they've said they won't be restocking them. I don't know that standardizing around 1 line of paint is the best solution, it's good people know there are options outside of just citadel, but describing the general colors used in generic terms as you did for things like the energy weapon colors seems like a good way to keep options open
That was an excellent way to paint the Black Widow Company (or Battalion). How would you paint Alpha to Epsilon Regiments of Wolf's Dragoons? They are all done in different colours.
Wish I knew this when I painted my Century of Cohors Morituri (MHAF) mechs. I did it the hard way. Black base, black/grey glaze (Worn Rubber or Grey Black from Vallejo line), then I used Wraithbone for the drybrushing. Came out okay, but I was having difficulty at the end due to the paint drying. I did see you used a wet paper towel in a tray so that might help me even more.
Oof. An additional step isn't too bad I guess. Glad it turned out alright! The palette was actually was some parchment paper laid over a wet paper towel! It keeps your paints wet for a long time. Would recommend!
Holy cow, this is an amazing format and a fantastic painting tutorial! Um, do you take paint scheme requests by any chance? I don't see anything about tipping or donating in your video's description but I've got a boatload of opposition mechs I need to paint in a somewhat generic look for a campaign I just started running and I'm just having having so much trouble to decide on a paint scheme that balances speed vs quality. I actually had a mini-painting day for my four players and I have a fair amount of paint sitting around afterward... but I just can't seem to pull the trigger on using any of it. Regardless, this is an amazing video, it's clear that you put a lot of thought into planning it out, I absolutely want to see more! Edit: Oh and in case it wasn't obvious, I'm definitely a novice painter. But I have some basic skills.
Hey thanks Ben! It was my first video so I'm actually looking for critiques to improve on the quality. What did you like? What did you not like? The video should have Super Thanks enabled if you want to tip. I also stream about once or twice a week if you want to Super Thanks. No guarantee that I'll do it, but if you have a request I'd be happy to hear it.
@@nerdyOveranalyzed Hrm, I'm afraid I'm not seeing the tipping option on the TH-cam app, nor did I see it when I brought up the video in my phone's web browser just now. Lemme know if you have something else like Patreon or whatever people use these days. Like: - Listing each paint clearly on screen, including the example color and company. - Displaying the example graphics for each the painting techniques (e.g., cockpit glass, PPC's/lasers, etc.) - The slow rotation of the mech on the spinning platform. - Demonstrations of the specific paint applications and techniques. - Overall flow and length of the video. - Great song at the end. 😁 Suggestions: - Perhaps have a link in the video description to your reddit posts, tweets, or imgr gallery for the high-quality stills? Then we'll have the ability to really zoom in ourselves, and you can keep the tight pace of your video intact. This could be especially useful for 4:06 onward. - I'll always appreciate it when these tutorials include the alternative options for the same or near-identical paints from different manufacturers. Not a big deal, I know there are lists that will show the roughly equivalents paint colors for each manufacturer, but it's nice when it's included in the video. I wouldn't worry about it being part of your spoken script, but it would be awesome to see it in the on-screen graphics or in the video description. As to a paint scheme suggestion, I'm just looking for quicker(ish) methods of using speedpaints for some sort of generic green/tan schemes, something general purpose enough to bring back each game for the players to fight. No camo patterns, just having the colors separated by the mechs' panel lines or larger sections of the body/limbs (like the Kell Hounds, but with green and tan instead). I know that sounds super boring, but I'm not really seeing this for speedpaints specifically on TH-cam. Also it seems like it's really hard to find a good balance with green/tan paint schemes that can both *pop* enough to not be boring, but also feel somewhat "realistic" with military colors. Oh... and maybe painting 6mm or 8mm infantry? Thanks!
Hello! This was my first painting tutorial. I'd be curious to know what parts were good and could use some work!
I love the format. Sort of like the normal videos.
Thank you for making this video.
This was an EXCELLENT video Nerdy! What I see a lot of other painters do is they talk briefly over what colors they use and how they will apply it and then spend the rest of the time painting the mech. Yeah it works for those who need a visual (Like myself), but I always felt it was lacking a bit on the technical parts. Like HOW much to paint, or WHERE to paint certain colors on. This was awesome! Thank you Nerdy.
Thanks glad you enjoyed!
If I could ask: What technical parts of the video did you find most useful? I want to make sure to include more tips like it in future videos.
@@nerdyOveranalyzed How you dry brush and how you showed a diagram on where you're putting certain paints. For example, when you painted the PPC's, you showed where you put a little white to have that glistening effect. Also, I appreciate the fact that you used speed paints almost like they are regular paints. I started out with the AP speedpaints and most people were saying to not paint over them nor use them over a base paint. Either that or they didn't say to do so. It always felt that with the speed paints, you are just "painting within the lines" and to not do anything else with it. If you want camo designs or more in depth looks, then use other paints. You showed that you can do that with the speed paints and it has motivated me to use them more.
Haha, that outro song got me.
A quick add-on to this: sealing your paint job! It's always recommended to use a sealer/finisher spray paint over the whole model, especially if you expect to be playing with it frequently on the tabletop. A matte finish spray from your local hobby store should do just fine.
Perrrrrrfect! I have an endless supply of eye-makeup brushes and sponges. My whammy 6D will have the MOST FABULOUS turbo need eyelashes this side of the periphery
YAAAASSSSS!
Speed Painting Wolf's Dragoons was super easy, barely an inconvenience.
Amazing results! The BW company scheme is iconic for a reason, super nice and clean.
For the cockpit. I've had some good results with Turbo Dork's line of metallics and color shifts. Especially with a 'mech using a black base color, which really helps to give depth and shine to the glass effect. Definitely worth it imo.
Mmh yeah! I've been wanting to get into doing more metallics. I hear you can get some decent results with the Army Painter Speed Paint over a metal but I'd have to experiment more.
Thanks for your feedback!
fun tidbit: you could also do the drybrushing step before the speedpaint/contrast step. The translucent-ish speedpaint/contrast paints will let the different undercoats show through.
It usually ends up as a less chalkly and a more subtle effect, so pick what you like best - but it is a little more beginner friendly as the nature of speedpaints will hide mistakes made while drybrushing (and/or, if you're feeling spicy, applying edge highlights).
Hmm interesting! Yeah I did see that the highlight step ended up a bit chalky on a few of the mechs I did using this technique. Interesting. I might try it out later.
@@nerdyOveranalyzed Heavy drybrushing can often look chalky (greys, ivories and whites are especially prone to this, sometimes even with a moderate application). Sometimes this is great! e.g. when painting rocks or dust effects. Other times not so much.
Removing even more paint from the brush and slowly doing light passes can help avoiding it, but it can be a bit tricky. Another alternative to avoid/reduce chalkyness is doing an edge highlight (either after a drybrush or just straight-on). Unfortunately edge highlighting can be quite daunting on the CGL minis and requires quite a bit more time and patience than a drybrushing pass, but some people really enjoy the process.
Using glazes, washes or inks can reduce the appearance of chalkyness after-the-fact, but mileage varies a lot depending on which paints are in use. Of these methods, underpainting the drybrush beneath the speedpaint is by far the fastest and probably most beginner-friendly once you get past the slightly counter-intuitive order of application.
@@nerdyOveranalyzed What also helps against the chalkiness of drybrushing is not using a paper towel to wipe the paint off on. Paper towels absorb a lot of the moisture of the paint that remains which produces the chalky effect. This is especially apparent with light greys and whites.
Instead you should use a texture palette which is basically a large textured surface that's not your mini. You can buy them online for pretty cheap but you can also make your own. I made mine from a piece of thick cardboard, a coat of PVA glue and then covered half with fine aquarium sand and the other half with a mixture of that sand with some small 2-4mm rocks also for aquariums. Very cheap and if the fine sand becomes too loaded with paint I just apply another coat of glue and sand.
About to start my journey. Thanks for the great video
Great Video! My only advice is to expand or go into more detail on the end part where you get into the more detailed parts of painting the mech
I appreciate the commitment to the bit by using gloves. They must make it more difficult to manipulate the brush but you got a great look on the mini anyway.
So good! Thank you for the detailed guide!
its looking great :) I also use rustoleum primer although my black one is a bit dark (ironic lol) even with white drybrush. Really liked how you broke down the painting thought process.
Well done! Thanks for sharing this!
Looks good!
Awesome video Nerdy, pretty useful and to the point! I was wondering if you can recomend me some units with polar/arctic color schemes for the clan and spheroids of the alpha strike box. And thanks for your amazing content 🤘🤘 cheers!
Hey great work! Always love to see more content for the miniatures game and this looks like a good scheme to get a good 'tabletop ready+' for your mech lances quickly!
Two small critiques: later in in the video you breeze through some detail sections and briefly mention using glazing techniques- maybe go over that quickly like you did drybrushing as it's another method of painting that requires proper technique to pull off. Also some of the paints you used in this video are either discontinued (Citadel no longer produces lamenters yellow), have significant availability problems (P3 l's stuff is consistently difficult to get my hands on), or have comperable/better alternatives (citadel produces a Martian Ironearth, a crackle paint with very similar coloring to your finished product). Similar to what you did with the grey you used for the drybrush you might want to give a general color as well as the specific paint you used unless it's something like speed paint with very particular properties.
Yeah they discontinued the yellow which I didn't realize until after I painted it. I'll have to figure out a new formula. What's available in your region FLGS? Army Painter and Citadel? I saw P3 on Amazon.
Maybe I'll start standardizing to one brand for the more common paints.
@Nerdy Overanalyzed locally I can easily get my hands on citadel and army painter. My lgs has some p3 starters available but they've said they won't be restocking them. I don't know that standardizing around 1 line of paint is the best solution, it's good people know there are options outside of just citadel, but describing the general colors used in generic terms as you did for things like the energy weapon colors seems like a good way to keep options open
Nice!
Of course, this needs a Mech from the Word Of Blake Shadow Divisions as a worthy opponent...
(Painting their legs is hard)
But what if.... Bounty Hunter? D:
@@nerdyOveranalyzed
Pretty Green, IMHO.
My Black Widow Warhammer complete with hand painted dragoon logo is a first generation Iron Wind Metals (then Ral Partha) model with minimal detail.
sick!
That was an excellent way to paint the Black Widow Company (or Battalion).
How would you paint Alpha to Epsilon Regiments of Wolf's Dragoons? They are all done in different colours.
Nice
Thanks! :)
Wish I knew this when I painted my Century of Cohors Morituri (MHAF) mechs. I did it the hard way. Black base, black/grey glaze (Worn Rubber or Grey Black from Vallejo line), then I used Wraithbone for the drybrushing. Came out okay, but I was having difficulty at the end due to the paint drying. I did see you used a wet paper towel in a tray so that might help me even more.
Oof. An additional step isn't too bad I guess. Glad it turned out alright!
The palette was actually was some parchment paper laid over a wet paper towel! It keeps your paints wet for a long time. Would recommend!
@@nerdyOveranalyzed It beats paying thirty dollars for a wet palette kit!
@@nerdyOveranalyzed Also, Krylon. That's the best primer IMHO.
@@1nONLY_DRock It's pretty darn good for the cost honestly. I'm 100% satisfied with it
Holy cow, this is an amazing format and a fantastic painting tutorial!
Um, do you take paint scheme requests by any chance? I don't see anything about tipping or donating in your video's description but I've got a boatload of opposition mechs I need to paint in a somewhat generic look for a campaign I just started running and I'm just having having so much trouble to decide on a paint scheme that balances speed vs quality. I actually had a mini-painting day for my four players and I have a fair amount of paint sitting around afterward... but I just can't seem to pull the trigger on using any of it.
Regardless, this is an amazing video, it's clear that you put a lot of thought into planning it out, I absolutely want to see more!
Edit: Oh and in case it wasn't obvious, I'm definitely a novice painter. But I have some basic skills.
Hey thanks Ben! It was my first video so I'm actually looking for critiques to improve on the quality. What did you like? What did you not like?
The video should have Super Thanks enabled if you want to tip. I also stream about once or twice a week if you want to Super Thanks.
No guarantee that I'll do it, but if you have a request I'd be happy to hear it.
@@nerdyOveranalyzed Hrm, I'm afraid I'm not seeing the tipping option on the TH-cam app, nor did I see it when I brought up the video in my phone's web browser just now. Lemme know if you have something else like Patreon or whatever people use these days.
Like:
- Listing each paint clearly on screen, including the example color and company.
- Displaying the example graphics for each the painting techniques (e.g., cockpit glass, PPC's/lasers, etc.)
- The slow rotation of the mech on the spinning platform.
- Demonstrations of the specific paint applications and techniques.
- Overall flow and length of the video.
- Great song at the end. 😁
Suggestions:
- Perhaps have a link in the video description to your reddit posts, tweets, or imgr gallery for the high-quality stills? Then we'll have the ability to really zoom in ourselves, and you can keep the tight pace of your video intact. This could be especially useful for 4:06 onward.
- I'll always appreciate it when these tutorials include the alternative options for the same or near-identical paints from different manufacturers. Not a big deal, I know there are lists that will show the roughly equivalents paint colors for each manufacturer, but it's nice when it's included in the video. I wouldn't worry about it being part of your spoken script, but it would be awesome to see it in the on-screen graphics or in the video description.
As to a paint scheme suggestion, I'm just looking for quicker(ish) methods of using speedpaints for some sort of generic green/tan schemes, something general purpose enough to bring back each game for the players to fight. No camo patterns, just having the colors separated by the mechs' panel lines or larger sections of the body/limbs (like the Kell Hounds, but with green and tan instead).
I know that sounds super boring, but I'm not really seeing this for speedpaints specifically on TH-cam. Also it seems like it's really hard to find a good balance with green/tan paint schemes that can both *pop* enough to not be boring, but also feel somewhat "realistic" with military colors.
Oh... and maybe painting 6mm or 8mm infantry?
Thanks!
Will you be doing any other mercenary companies?
I'll probably do a few more to see if the series it worth continuing. :) Are there any in particular you want to see?
As a fan of Natasha Kerensky, im a little offended that you painted that Warhammer like the widowmaket, since in lore she's dead