Thanks for helping me make my decision. The deal breaker was how easy to add the resin. $50/400 gal= $0.125/gal. 15 gal per wash= $1.88 per wash! Was comparing to the waterdrop @279 lightning deal since the bypass was a nice to have.
Just remember the Waterdrop can be converted after the first refill to run that 400 gallons as well with the same resin. That bypass is amazing! Also, that 400 gallons is based on my water and could be different for others. Some could only get not even a 100 gallons.
I swear your bloopers get better and better, just cracks me up! I love how you just laugh over getting mad which is what I probably would be doing. Great review! Still in search of a DI tank, my challenge is I have 8.5" of space to work with and at the same time, I don't want the smallest tank either b/c I don't want to be changing the resin so often.
Its really hard because in DI systems size really does matter as it increases flow, efficiency and less refills. The right resin might be the next best choice. 60/40 vs 50/50 or running separate and not mixed. 20 years ago I would have kicked and broke things, but I have learned with having 3 sons that just laughing at myself is just a healthier way to deal with frustration.
With your water bladder you could fill it from a reverse osmosis machine (no remineralizer!) and get some good water to rinse with. My RO produces a TDS in the 6-8 ppm range and I fill a Brute trash can. I was considering DI before I figured out just producing a batch of RO water.
Most reverse osmosis would take a long time to produced 500 gallons. The trash can idea is great and I actually just bought an RO system and food safe trash can to store for a video. I would still run the RO water back through a DI system to get 0 ppm and barely use the resin. I think in the end though RO having waste water is the main reason I stayed away from it and if it’s bad water could be two or three times the clean water. DI resin just leaves worn out resin in the end and all water is used. Of course water quality is a big thing me having 50ppm it’s kind of a waste for RO vs DO resin, but if I was 200ppm plus I would run RO for sure. In the end it’s all preference really. We shall see when I try this RO system for the first time and see how it goes. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the great videos. I’m looking at this for my first DI system. You mentioned that it is better to keep the resin wet. I don’t have an option for a permanent setup, will need to carry it out and set it up each time. Was thinking to just buy caps for the hose inlet & outlet connections for when I store it between uses to keep the water in and prevent evaporation. Or maybe just build a similar bypass setup and put it in “bypass” during storage (rely on the ball valves to keep the water in the tank).
I recommend getting the HM digital TDS calibration solution. None of those cheap TDS meters are calibrated properly from factory. Its like $15 but you can be sure they are all calibrated the same then. I use the 342ppm solution. I have never used the 1000ppm stuff
Appreciate this suggestion I know the TDS meter on the cr spotless has a calibration screw due it being designed to meter flowing water. Never thought to check these that way, but none are able to be calibrated, but maybe an investment in a better quality one is needed. I will try the solution.
You don't have to be 0 to have spotless. I have beef a WFP window guy for 14 years. If you invest in this money for washing get you a RO. 4040 or a 20. My 4040 is going strong for 10 years ..Depending on in tds I get 1-3 ppm. You can use this, what 1!8 cube maybe 1/4 cube to polish. Serious resin user, try On The Go and get a dual bed. 1 tank cation the other Anion..Tds will be a bit higher but you make 2x or 1.5x as much DI water.
Totally understand what you’re saying and I explain in the video up to 10ppm is pretty much spotless. Problem is most who watch this and what the video is geared for is home enthusiasts who wash their cars once a week. Going RO is a big undertaking and investment for them plus all that waste water. Even with a 4040 you don’t have enough flow to run a proper pressure washer as even at 24/7 nonstop it can only produce 1.8gpm so then you would have to store water and either gravity feed or pump it. Dual bed does last longer, but yet another investment to run two tanks. Using for a business for sure would do things totally different, but this type of equipment is perfect for a home owner and much easier to use. Of course water quality is the biggest factor in all of this and if you have bad water I have always suggested RO, but if you have 100ppm not sure RO is a worthy investment.
Do you recommend this one or the water drop. Biggest selling point of the water drop is the bypass valve in my opinion. Also do you have a video of the pre sediment filter setup? I have pretty high ppm and think it would be necessary to install one in additional to a DI setup. I’m located in Southern California and my tap water is around 190 ppm. Great videos! Thanks!
Actually 190 isn’t so bad that is less than the national average of 200. I don’t have one on a pre-filter setup, but it would depend on water source and seeing that it 190 more than likely is city/county water. I think a carbon pre-filter system is best to deal with the Chlorine. Yes, between this and Waterdrop I would pick the Waterdrop all day because of the bypass, but this one you will refilling less often due to there being more resin inside.
@@CarsWithKeav thank you so much for the insight and reply! Yes, I’m on city/county water like you said 👍Do you have any carbon pre-filter system recommendations? Also, I have a whole house water softener system installed and have ran water pipes from it to the inside of my garage ending in a hose bib where I currently connect my pressure washer to thus planning on adding a DI system and a pre-filter system in front of that if necessary. Does soft water benefit DI system in any way? I measured the ppm of my soft water and tap water and they are pretty much the same.
Not sure worth a review, but for most people’s water the 60/40 will last about 10% longer as the cation ions wear out earlier so having more gets you more filtering time.
Could you just remove the top from the tank to spin it onto the garden hose, then reconnect the top to the tank? I agree that garden hose fitting should have a swivel.
You sure could, but sounds like a lot of work plus you run the chance of accidentally not seating the pipe connection properly. Quick connects would be the easiest fix though no swivel needed then.
It is one way to improve the foam levels if you have hard water. Not the main reason though main way is with a higher flow pressure washer and a quality foam cannon. Another way is a good quality soap designed to foam. Last thing that can help is using warm distilled water in the soap mix.
I’m trying to find a water tank to mount in my trailer for a mobile setup, do you have any recommendations on this? I actually used a little ingenuity and turned our old rain barrel into a functional water tank to hookup to my pressure washer but it can’t be sealed on the top and it’s a very oblong size. Thanks for the video! Might check this unit out, for the price it seems nice.
This one would work great due to its size. They make bigger ones. Being a detailer you might have commercial access to those rental resin tanks? I hear that is the most best cost solution overall and the flow those can handle is like 10gpm. If not these come in an abundance of sizes and most are all the same its just a tank with an in and out top.
Man you have looked at so many solutions. A weekend washer like myself just wants one that won’t leak, easy to refill, easy to have bypass or make bypass. Oh and of course just $50 for everything haha. Jk on price.
Ordered this and the instructions said to empty the tank after each use. How does this work with your recommendation to keep the resin beads wet and not let them dry out?
You can keep them moist. Not sure why they say empty kind of weird I mean most systems sit on a wall and are always full of water. Draining out some of the water to make it less heavy is fine, but resin has to stay moist.
I like both, but this tank is kind of my favorite. I am going to do more with resins soon. Trying splitting them and different mixture mixed bed 60/40 vs 50/50 I think that is where the real value and efficiency is.
I just wash my own cars and use a resin one I got at Costco. Seems to work good for a while then have to replace the bag in it. Now sure how many gallons I get.
Yeah, that’s the only problem it doesn’t last as long as you wish it could. Water quality is a big factor in how many times you’ll refill. Also, water quality can change throughout the year and temperature impacts effectiveness as well.
Did it a few videos ago. Not on this exact setup, but it would all be the same. Just the points where the valves screw in will be closer together. th-cam.com/video/Virr2z90D4w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VZGAZ4txScEFt7hN
Sooo can I use this with a pressure washer? I would assume not as not enough water flow. Is it best to pre-foam, contact wash, use spray on sealant/topper, rinse and then migrate normal garden hose though this system as final water rinse?
You can run most electric pressure washer with this up to say an Active 2.0 as long as your water quality will allow the filters to clean at 2gpm. I just prefer if for the final rinse to use a garden hose to saturate the surface. Still Need to make sure you regulate the flow to 2gpm as well.
Would running a filter prolong the life of the resin? Maybe something like a whole home style filter. I have a Water on the Go dual bed system that's burning through resin. I have very high TDS/hard water, so it's to be expected somewhat. Trying to figure out a way to get more life out of it.
Depends on the water. If it is city/county carbon pre-filters can help with the Chlorine and Chloramine which eats at resin. If on well water co2 could be in the water which an aeration process is needed. Either way it should help a little just by doing some filtering the resin doesn’t have to do.
Excellent review and video! I am in Texas where typical municipal water is ~150-200PPM. I am rushing to dry because of water spotting. Not a pro detailer and only washing 2 cars once a month. Dumb question: Does this particular unit have enough water flow to properly feed a pressure washer (specifically a Ryobi 2000PSI / 1.2 gpm electric) or is a larger tank needed for water storage prior to the pressure washer connection? *EDIT* It was a dumb question - 9:55 I rewatched the video and I completely missed this flow validation the first time through.
As you saw more than enough. The resin will probably last longer as the 1.2gpm or 1.4gpm with the right nozzle you will slow down the flow and the resin will be more efficient. I would still suggest the final rinse is done without pressure. The black detergent tip that came with the Ryobi is really good with the pressure washer turned off. just flowing the water through it has just the right spray pattern for rinsing.
Keav, you now have done a few reviews of these smaller portable unit (thank you). Any thoughts on factors to help pick one? Any tested that need regeneration compared to replacement of the resin?
Regeneration or replacement wouldn’t matter between them choosing which way will influence how much you spend. I have not done regeneration as I’m still tentative on using acids. I think it comes down to if you are wall mounting or not. Tank to me is the way if not wall mounting.
Do you prefer this one over the Waterdrop? Also if you used the aftermarket cartridges on the waterdrop, would the waterdrop be more cost effective than this one? I’m trying to decide whether to buy this one or the waterdrop. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
They would both to me be the same efficiency if you use the aftermarket cartridges. I think it comes down to the bypass and how valuable that is to you. Also changing resin can be easier with the Waterdrop you can have an extra set of cartridges ready to go for a quick swap. The tank is just the ultimate value for how much resin it can hold for the money and the flow. My personal choice is the Waterdrop just because that bypass is amazing and nothing else like that out there.
That is a cr spotless and is a DI system that costs around $400 and is built to be wall mountable. Holds more resin and I usually get 600 to 700 gallons out of it.
Your water is low that is good compared say 200pm levels at my house. The dual type resin tanks are supposedly more efficient . This kind setup is cheaper to run then a CR cartridge system correct? Great videos are you an engineer by training?
Much cheaper to run than CR Spotless and yes separate cation and anion is more efficient as one can wear out before the other and only refill what is needed and is way easier to regenerate if you are up to that task. This resin was 50/50 and there are 60/40 mixed bed resin that try to be more efficient. Never was an engineer, but it does interest me heavily.
Hello Keav, I'm not getting anywhere close to that performance. Before embarking on a spotless system, I had my water tested, high chlorine and 185ppm. My setup = 3 stage x 20" Atlas Filtri - 1. Melt down Polypropylene sediment filter. 2. Carbon filter 5 micron 3. Columbian Bam Bam from your link. Started at 1ppm after maybe 12 washes + foaming, systems at 14ppm. That's practically 1ppm gain per wash. Was wondering if you tested other Bam Bam's for longevity? Almost forgot to mention the rep said the Bam Bam might not last long so he gave me Scale Amour (stage 3.) I guess he was right.
So you are only running 1 20 inch resin canister correct? What water flow are you running at and are you using it for the whole wash or just final rinse? Not so sure if it’s city water you would need a sediment filter of course depends you might need it. Just one 20 inch you would have to be at 2gpm or less to have enough cleaning time on the resin. Switching to a 1 micron carbon filter would pickup both chemical and sediment. Then you could add another resin filter to help with cleaning time to match the flow. if I’m getting 400 gallons at 50ppm which my water acts like 100ppm due to the chlorine. So if I say double to 200ppm equivalent then 200 gallons would be a possible expected amount. Not sure how much gallons you use, but typically if you use spotless water for a whole wash it would be between 15 and 20 gallons. At those rates your gallons usage is within I would expect at 180 to 240 gallons. Is this all being run through a pressure washer? Just trying to figure out the flow rate going through the filter. Usually when it rises fast like that is due to flow being too high for the amount of resin.
@@CarsWithKeav Correct, only the last canister is resin. I use it with the Zwift foam cannon with 1.1mm nozzle. Final rinse thru a Dewalt DWPW 3000 pressure washer with the 40 nozzle (don't know the nozzle dia.). I just checked the water again but let it trickle much slower and got 2ppm. I try a flow meter and see what the flow is.
@@MikeMJCW I mean that pressure washer isn’t a lot of GPM so flow should be less than 2gpm, but hose could be pushing a lot of pressure on the Input side.
That is tough you need the biggest one you can get to give plenty of cleaning time on the resin. I think a 4 foot tank would do best, but they are going to be $600 or reach out to Culligan or one of those companies to see if they will rent you one it is much cheaper at that ppm. Many at that ppm will run an RO system and store the water to be used later. Using gravity feed or a pump to deliver the clean water back through a DI system for the final clean.
This looks promising. You have 50 TDS and that yielded about 400Gal. Since I have 225 TDS likely I would yield around 100gal. Much better than CR spotless. I your opinion they have to options, one skinny and short. Are they both essentially the same with the same amount of beads?
@@CarsWithKeavwhatever di system I used will be after our water softener cause we have hard water as well to the tune of 450 PPM. The softener brings it down to 50ppm. One less thing the Di filter will have to combat. Thanks for the videos.
@@mrprfct7069 No problem! If looking for a bigger tank style the Griots is pretty good with a bypass. Can hold twice what this Amazon one can and all for $299. I’ll have a video out on it most likely next week.
Another Amazing Review ! Keav Just a question does the blue tube and black tube have a difference between the two or just the sizing? Also what are your thoughts on running this in my mobile detailing van setup?
As a DI system for sure its superior. The other one did have the built in bypass that costs about $50 to make yourself so it has some value there and it is wall mountable, but I myself would pick this one all day over the other one.
@@CarsWithKeav Thanks for the reply, very helpful! 😊The wall mounting is nice on the other one but I'm thinking one can sit this on a wall-shelf or something then secure it with one of those strap holders for canisters, so it stays in place.
For me if you have a wall mount cr spotless it’s not worth going this route as you already paid for it. Cr spotless holds more resin so it will Last longer between refills. If making a choice between the two it’s hard not to do the tank just from a coat perspective. Not very wall mountable though.
@@FantasticDetailing Depends on your water though. Mine at 400 gallons is about the same as one cr spotless cartridge so I would think they both would do the same amount. The device itself doesn’t really do much between the two. It’s really about cost and how much resin they can hold. Resin does all the work.
@@FantasticDetailing Then for sure go with the tank most mobile detailers run one of these smaller FRP tanks. You only have so Much room in a mobile setup. Especially since that unit doesn’t look to be wall mountable and is not stable standing on its own without the frame.
What's the "Inner Diameter" ID of the flexzilla hose? I want to get a reel set up but the reel set up only comes in 1/2'' ID. I have seen some of your other setups so im sure I could figure something out. Always appreciate your content thanks Keav!
You talking thread size? The inner diameter to me should not matter. The connection is where you need to make sure it can hook up. Mine is a 5/8 hose and that is the inner diameter. Flexzilla does make a 1/2 hose which I think is due to the amount that will fit on the reel and not the connection? If its about fitting on the reel not all 1/2 inner diameter hoses have the same outer diameter. Here is the 1/2 Flexzilla amzn.to/3T700z1. Let me know if I am way off on my questions. LOL
Seems like a good option but if you did add a bypass wouldn’t it be more difficult to take the cap off? And if you add a bypass doesn’t the three way vale only need to be on the input? That’s what the Waterdrop looks like it has.
The top would be heavier that’s for sure, but if the hoses are disconnected then it still unscrews the same just a wider swing. I always do things extra and like valves on both sides, but is not needed. Check out the Griots one it has built in bypass and holds almost twice as much resin for $299 it is a good option as well. Same concept just bigger with a bypass. www.griotsgarage.com/portable-water-deionizer/
@@roberthartline6061 that is such a tough decision. At the current deal the Waterdrop is my choice got that really nice built in bypass and it’s wall mountable. It’s only $238 right now. You’ll need to change over to bill canisters on the first refill and at that point it will be the same amount of resin at the spotbye cheap tank.
Thanks. I’m going to use this with a Giraffe wall mounted pressure washer. The Waterdrop manual says 1gpm which seems low but if I use the 1.4 nozzle I should be ok from what I’ve read.
I bought the same one about a month ago and had some water leakage with the included hose adapters. My starting tds was 350ppm and I couldn't get lower than about 20ppm through the filter, and unfortunately it left water spots on my black car. Perhaps this might work if your starting tds is lower than 200...
TDS is a tricky game as there are so many other factors as well that impact it, but I would agree if above 300 you should be looking at larger tanks that have more surface area to filter fully. One question what water flow was it running at? If you were able to dial it down to 2.5gpm or as low as 2.0 gpm would it filter to 0ppm. I am able to run my hose water through full blast, but it would not get to 0 ppm due to it flowing faster than the resin can filter. If you have a higher amount of calcium even 10 to 15 ppm could leave water spots. mine leaked as well which is why you need to use lots of teflon tape which is included.
@@CarsWithKeav yeah I used a lot of teflon, and I rewrapped it after the first leak which was a lot more than the 2nd leak. I was hoping it was something I could put inside the garage but that wouldn't work out for me. I think initially my water pressure was around 40gpm but after connecting to the pressure washer, I think quickly it would slow it down to at most 1.2-1.8gpm since the flow would be regulated by the pressure washer (using a small Ryobi)? Perhaps I need to go wash at my parents' house as their tds reading is only 40ppm 🙂
I bought this exact one and washing my car, is still water spots. Do I need to let the water run for a bit before starting to hose down the car?? I filled up the tank halfway with resin
What kind of water spots? If you leave the car to dry especially outside all the dirt in the air will eventually attract to the beads and will dry as a spot, but it’s an easy to wipe away one and not one that would etch into the paint. This unit needs to be full of resin to work properly and clean faster. What is the flow rate of your water coming out? You have to dial it back to nor more than 2.5gpm. If not water will move faster than the resin can clean. What is your tds going into the tank?
@@CarsWithKeav thanks for the reply. I filled my tank up about 3/4 with resin. And the hose prior to the hookup is 400 PPM. Then turning the hose on about halfway to water flowing through, it gets to as low as 120 ppm and will fluctuate up to 180 ppm. And the water spots are etched into the painting, it’s not what you are saying with the dirty air. My PPM is too high. Do you think it’s because I have my hose turned on too much with too much water flowing? I don’t have a connection to test my GPM
@@vincentcaputo1689 Without knowing the GPM it’s hard to tell. My line can do 8gpm so if I cut in half it will still do almost twice the max of the tank. 400ppm is very high and 120 would give water spots for sure. This tank full at 2gpm might be able to get it into low tds territory, but couldn’t guarantee 0 ppm. You could for sure get 0, but it might be at a flow rate too low to be useable. Try lowering the flow down gradually to see if the tds continues to get lower maybe even to 0 and then check how much GPM it is. If you have a bucket and a scale you can measure the gpm by running the water into the bucket for exactly a minute. Weigh the bucket before and subtract that from the weight divide by 8.34 and that is your gpm. If you have a bucket with measurements on it then you can skip the whole scale thing and just use that.
@@CarsWithKeav I tried with 2.75 GPM and 5GPM and it seemed the 2.5 was a better consistency but PPM still averaging around 120-160PPM. I don’t understand why I can’t get it below 100 PPM consistently. The second I turn it on, my PPM is around 60-80PPM but only for a few seconds.
The ones in the video no as they can’t be calibrated except the in/out one, but they just didn’t work enough to calibrate. I now have one that I have calibrated with 342ppm water and it is very close to the ones I used a little less than they stated actually.
Thanks Kiel, I have the CR spotless DIC 10 set up, going into my pressure washer. Would it be too redundant to add this DI in front of my CR unit? I would have this connected to the house, then a hose to the CR, which feeds the Pressure washer. My rationale is, perhaps it would increase the life of the CR DI Resin, and I could use this and replace it more frequently? What are your thoughts? Thanks.
I mean it would make the cr spotless last longer due to this unit doing all the cleaning so then the cr spotless is not even needed. You would not know when it needs to be refilled as the cr spotless is going to pickup the slack then you will be filling up both of them at the same time. I think investing in a pre-filter with a carbon block and sediment filter would probably be better than running back to back DI systems. If you already have a cr spotless I think yo have all you need for a DI system.
@@CarsWithKeav Thank You for replying. I really appreciate your Reviews and expertise. When you mention a “carbon block” and sediment filter, I have used a “Camco RV inline filter”. Which type of filter ”Carbon Block” system would you suggest? Do you have videos addressing this issue? Thanks again for responding. P.S. Your review helped me in my getting Giraffe G20 Thanks 👍🏾🙏🏾😊.
@@ltakallen I don't have a specific video, but the type of water you have will determine the type of pre-filter. Is it City/County water or is it well water or a water source that is from the ground? City water tends to be full of chlorine and the carbon block will help there. Chlorine eats up resin as does co2 which would be present in some well water (aerator would help here to work the c02 out which requires storing water). Sediment will help with particles so the resin is just dealing with less and the carbon block as well taking the chemicals out which are not dissolved solids.
@@CarsWithKeav Thank You for your response. I will look into the carbon pre filter. I have “city water, I believe @ 30-50ppm. I seem to be going through the resin on my CR too quickly so instead of buying more resin at 70.00 per, I am seeking a fix. I have already installed a bypass on the CR which has helped. Thanks again, I’ll keep ya posted on my progress. Love the Channel and your reviews 🙏🏾😊. Cheers
@@ltakallen I’m at 50 - 60 and my CR spotless gets about 700 gallons. Way less than what they state. Every Resin I have tried I am at least 20% less which I attribute to the chlorine in city water. I am now running a chlorine blocker carbon filter that seems to be helping.
@@supersean58 I always prefer 10x4.5 if going into a DI system of this size. I like this filter been using it for awhile plus it’s 1 micron. amzn.to/4ehdIcc
@@CarsWithKeav just wanted to follow up and say thank you for making this video, i bought the spotless system in your video and went from ~240 ppm to between 0-2 ppm. I'm going to add that pre filter next month to help a bit more as well
@@noahwilson4536 The ppm reading of your water before it enters the filter. You would be surprised how slow 2gpm is water wise. Was the internal tube fully seated?
Can I ask what here is galvanized? Everything I used is 304 stainless from the adapters to the T valves and it wasn't cheap. I would love to use galvanized as its much cheaper, but you would have rust issue like you said.
@@CarsWithKeavhey Keav, me again. I bought the tds meter and my tap water is at 350ppm. Is it even worth getting a DI solution? If yes, which one is the best for this kind of ppm? I’m assuming any I buy I will probably go thru resin like crazy.
@@dannysuarez6923 350 is in that middle ground where DI is still worth it. Anything more and RO system would be a big help. you will spend more in resin than others, but if you get a decent sized tank you will get quite a few washes. Something like the Griots DI system is an idea it’s well priced and can hold way more resin than they actually put in there. Enough to where you should be able to get 200 to 300 gallons of spotless water. Has built in bypass as well I just tested one and should have a video it in a few weeks. I also plan to work on resin regeneration showing how and the materials to get once I have that dialed in I’ll make a video. That will save some money.
Do you think that there are any differences between the black and blue one? The black one has 40$ but with a subscription attached to it whereas the blue one has flat 40$ off.
They are the same size just different height. Black one is bulkier and shorter and the blue one is skinnier and taller. I am not seeing the $40 being tied to the subscription. Though. You can just make sure the one time purchase is checked and should be good. Not sure why a subscription is tied to that makes no sense. I would understand the resin being on a subscription.
@@CarsWithKeav When I'm signed into Amazon I see "$40 off coupon with Subscribe and Save only". I've I'm not signed in, I just see the $40 off coupon. Strange. I set the subscribe to every 6 month. Then I see $40 off plus $9.50 off for subscribe. I'll cancel the subscription after the item arrives.
@@aubreywhitley6889 I saw the same thing with the 40$ with subscription. So you're saying if you're signed in, youre going to get the black one and cancel the subscription later?
Is it a 5/8 inch garden hose? If it it then they will have a 3/4 garden hose thread and will work with their adapters. I was using a 5/8 garden hose in the video as well.
That is very low ppm, but that is also a lot of gallons. I think running dual bed is the better option and if you can recharge the resin to save more money.
Finally... Got lucky and Amazon got a few in under the link you provided. Now for a quick question: While Amazon was out-of-stock, I did find a new Blue one on eBay (not the complete kit, but just the bare tank and the inner parts. No fittings or handle). Amazon is still out of resin... What do you recommend when your viewers cannot get hold of the 'Colombian Bam Bam Refill' resin? Also, I can't locate, anywhere online, a manual or find parts for these (at some point I'll need new seals)? I did reach out to the manufacturer and fired off an email and no reply as expected.
Good thing is it’s a common standard for most of these tanks. I would expect the seals to be not so hard to find. Might need a caliper to find the measurements. I see it’s back in stock, but this is the next cheapest, but is a bigger bag at 11lbs vs the 8lb bam bam. amzn.to/49amG7e
Thank you in advance for your help. I just want to get this right. I'm on well water in Arizona and right now my TDS is 920 after a water softener. And if this hard water dries and leaves water spots on the windows, I can only remove them with a hammer (lol). @@CarsWithKeav
@@still-DJ Water spots will be a problem for sure. This dI system will be a good start, but being honest that TDS the resin won’t last long if it can get to 0ppm. I don’t have experience with tds that high, but I know a lot do people in areas like that and they end up running reverse osmosis in the end.
That depends on what is in that ppm. That is usually what most say, but way too much time to waste waiting for it to get to 20. 5 to 10 should be when you order your refills. It would go from 10 to 20 very fast resin degrades quickly once spent.
@@Coldlegend214 I did one earlier this year showing how to store and use. Pros and cons as well. Not sure that system is enough for window cleaning you need a certain amount of flow there. The more flow the more expensive they get. th-cam.com/video/BpQmEDUHFRU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4xCIWo8eAzL0ueWt People tell me really Good things about this one it’s just an RO by itself, but is stainless and heavy duty. $100 for housing and $150 for the filter. Good enough for 1.5gpm. Might try to build a setup one day. amzn.to/3WRokHV
![[TH] JFT vs RLF - VCT Ascension Pacific - Day 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PuIH7w_jO6c/mqdefault.jpg)
My new favorite channel to watch.. Thanks for sharing the information.
Really appreciate the kind words!
Thanks for helping me make my decision. The deal breaker was how easy to add the resin. $50/400 gal= $0.125/gal. 15 gal per wash= $1.88 per wash! Was comparing to the waterdrop @279 lightning deal since the bypass was a nice to have.
Just remember the Waterdrop can be converted after the first refill to run that 400 gallons as well with the same resin. That bypass is amazing! Also, that 400 gallons is based on my water and could be different for others. Some could only get not even a 100 gallons.
I swear your bloopers get better and better, just cracks me up! I love how you just laugh over getting mad which is what I probably would be doing. Great review! Still in search of a DI tank, my challenge is I have 8.5" of space to work with and at the same time, I don't want the smallest tank either b/c I don't want to be changing the resin so often.
Its really hard because in DI systems size really does matter as it increases flow, efficiency and less refills. The right resin might be the next best choice. 60/40 vs 50/50 or running separate and not mixed. 20 years ago I would have kicked and broke things, but I have learned with having 3 sons that just laughing at myself is just a healthier way to deal with frustration.
this is my first time watching your channel and man was I ever laughing my a$$ off at the bloopers. I love it.
Bloopers is what I do well. LOL
Man that is way cheaper than on the go tanks and resin. Thanks for doing this video!
I think the On the go ones are bigger though. I have not looked into them a lot to know though.
@CarsWithKeav they have single and double tanks. This looks close is size to a single.
With your water bladder you could fill it from a reverse osmosis machine (no remineralizer!) and get some good water to rinse with. My RO produces a TDS in the 6-8 ppm range and I fill a Brute trash can. I was considering DI before I figured out just producing a batch of RO water.
Most reverse osmosis would take a long time to produced 500 gallons. The trash can idea is great and I actually just bought an RO system and food safe trash can to store for a video. I would still run the RO water back through a DI system to get 0 ppm and barely use the resin. I think in the end though RO having waste water is the main reason I stayed away from it and if it’s bad water could be two or three times the clean water. DI resin just leaves worn out resin in the end and all water is used. Of course water quality is a big thing me having 50ppm it’s kind of a waste for RO vs DO resin, but if I was 200ppm plus I would run RO for sure. In the end it’s all preference really. We shall see when I try this RO system for the first time and see how it goes. Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the great videos. I’m looking at this for my first DI system. You mentioned that it is better to keep the resin wet. I don’t have an option for a permanent setup, will need to carry it out and set it up each time. Was thinking to just buy caps for the hose inlet & outlet connections for when I store it between uses to keep the water in and prevent evaporation. Or maybe just build a similar bypass setup and put it in “bypass” during storage (rely on the ball valves to keep the water in the tank).
That’s a good idea should be plenty of water in there after a use to cap off and leave for some time.
I really liked this review. Quite a bit for that small tank. Love the bloopers!! Happy Monday!
You said you missed the blooper a few videos ago so I had to do it. LOL
@@CarsWithKeav thank you! 😊💕 I laugh so hard. You say things I would say and I about die🤣
Great news think I will wait for the upgrade version with built in bypass.
Somebody will come out with one. Some already do like Adams has a tank with built in bypass.
Another great review! Missed watching these bloopers bro 😂. Gonna be catching up on all the vids I missed this week
Appreciate you bro!
I recommend getting the HM digital TDS calibration solution. None of those cheap TDS meters are calibrated properly from factory. Its like $15 but you can be sure they are all calibrated the same then. I use the 342ppm solution. I have never used the 1000ppm stuff
Appreciate this suggestion I know the TDS meter on the cr spotless has a calibration screw due it being designed to meter flowing water. Never thought to check these that way, but none are able to be calibrated, but maybe an investment in a better quality one is needed. I will try the solution.
I had just saw this on Amazon about a month ago. Thanks for doing this test!
You’re Welcome!
Presume we are taking about (PPM) Parts per Million. They are cheap meters so a small fluctuation appears very likely.
You would be correct I have moved on to slightly better ones that can be calibrated and I buy calibration solution to keep it accurate.
Excellent demonstration 👍
Thank you!
For less than $200 that’s a pretty good deal! Could see people running this as a dual cation and anion setup!
I think I am going to be trying that dual setup out. Maybe even a video on recharging the resin as well.
You don't have to be 0 to have spotless. I have beef a WFP window guy for 14 years. If you invest in this money for washing get you a RO. 4040 or a 20. My 4040 is going strong for 10 years ..Depending on in tds I get 1-3 ppm. You can use this, what 1!8 cube maybe 1/4 cube to polish. Serious resin user, try On The Go and get a dual bed. 1 tank cation the other Anion..Tds will be a bit higher but you make 2x or 1.5x as much DI water.
Totally understand what you’re saying and I explain in the video up to 10ppm is pretty much spotless. Problem is most who watch this and what the video is geared for is home enthusiasts who wash their cars once a week. Going RO is a big undertaking and investment for them plus all that waste water. Even with a 4040 you don’t have enough flow to run a proper pressure washer as even at 24/7 nonstop it can only produce 1.8gpm so
then you would have to store water and either gravity feed or pump it. Dual bed does last longer, but yet another investment to run two tanks. Using for a business for sure would do things totally different, but this type of equipment is perfect for a home owner and much easier to use. Of course water quality is the biggest factor in all of this and if you have bad water I have always suggested RO, but if you have 100ppm not sure RO is a worthy investment.
love love the bloopers
Thank You
Do you recommend this one or the water drop. Biggest selling point of the water drop is the bypass valve in my opinion.
Also do you have a video of the pre sediment filter setup? I have pretty high ppm and think it would be necessary to install one in additional to a DI setup.
I’m located in Southern California and my tap water is around 190 ppm.
Great videos! Thanks!
Actually 190 isn’t so bad that is less than the national average of 200. I don’t have one on a pre-filter setup, but it would depend on water source and seeing that it 190 more than likely is city/county water. I think a carbon pre-filter system is best to deal with the Chlorine. Yes, between this and Waterdrop I would pick the Waterdrop all day because of the bypass, but this one you will refilling less often due to there being more resin inside.
@@CarsWithKeav thank you so much for the insight and reply! Yes, I’m on city/county water like you said 👍Do you have any carbon pre-filter system recommendations?
Also, I have a whole house water softener system installed and have ran water pipes from it to the inside of my garage ending in a hose bib where I currently connect my pressure washer to thus planning on adding a DI system and a pre-filter system in front of that if necessary. Does soft water benefit DI system in any way? I measured the ppm of my soft water and tap water and they are pretty much the same.
Make a video of your fancy bypass valve, looks slick. I need one.
Made one on it already. th-cam.com/video/Virr2z90D4w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HuSGpr25I9L4FXG8
The end of the video has me dying..... 😂😂😂😂😂
I had to make up for a recent video not have any bloopers. LOL
Thank you for all you do. I’m new to all this and thinking of getting me one. About how many gallons do you need to rinse a car.thanks
For a single rinse it will be between 5 gallons and 10 gallons depending on how frugal you are with the rinse. I’m a 10 gallon type of guy. 🤣
@@CarsWithKeav lol thanks
Which high pressure water hose is that you’re running with your pressure washer? The black one
Blushield Kevlar hose amzn.to/3Yi2peg
Hi Keav! Love your reviews. You mentioned there's different resins for a one tank. Could you do a review about different resins? 50/50 vs 60/40?
Not sure worth a review, but for most people’s water the 60/40 will last about 10% longer as the cation ions wear out earlier so having more gets you more filtering time.
Could you just remove the top from the tank to spin it onto the garden hose, then reconnect the top to the tank? I agree that garden hose fitting should have a swivel.
You sure could, but sounds like a lot of work plus you run the chance of accidentally not seating the pipe connection properly. Quick connects would be the easiest fix though no swivel needed then.
Is this how those guys make the foam look so good?
It is one way to improve the foam levels if you have hard water. Not the main reason though main way is with a higher flow pressure washer and a quality foam cannon. Another way is a good quality soap designed to foam. Last thing that can help is using warm distilled water in the soap mix.
I’m trying to find a water tank to mount in my trailer for a mobile setup, do you have any recommendations on this? I actually used a little ingenuity and turned our old rain barrel into a functional water tank to hookup to my pressure washer but it can’t be sealed on the top and it’s a very oblong size. Thanks for the video! Might check this unit out, for the price it seems nice.
This one would work great due to its size. They make bigger ones. Being a detailer you might have commercial access to those rental resin tanks? I hear that is the most best cost solution overall and the flow those can handle is like 10gpm. If not these come in an abundance of sizes and most are all the same its just a tank with an in and out top.
Man you have looked at so many solutions. A weekend washer like myself just wants one that won’t leak, easy to refill, easy to have bypass or make bypass. Oh and of course just $50 for everything haha. Jk on price.
You had me at $50 🤣🤣 Look at the Griots it’s all of those and runs 4gpm for $299 already filled with resin.
Ordered this and the instructions said to empty the tank after each use. How does this work with your recommendation to keep the resin beads wet and not let them dry out?
You can keep them moist. Not sure why they say empty kind of weird I mean most systems sit on a wall and are always full of water. Draining out some of the water to make it less heavy is fine, but resin has to stay moist.
❤ the bloopers. Nice review! Which do you like better. The bam bam or the cartridge DI systems?
I like both, but this tank is kind of my favorite. I am going to do more with resins soon. Trying splitting them and different mixture mixed bed 60/40 vs 50/50 I think that is where the real value and efficiency is.
Tempting to get with 40 off.. Great video as always.
I'm a bad influence. Just wait when the big products start getting reviewed soon. LOL
I just wash my own cars and use a resin one I got at Costco. Seems to work good for a while then have to replace the bag in it. Now sure how many gallons I get.
Yeah, that’s the only problem it doesn’t last as long as you wish it could. Water quality is a big factor in how many times you’ll refill. Also, water quality can change throughout the year and temperature impacts effectiveness as well.
Your tap water is good asf compared to mine. I get 199 ppm reading on my tds.
I got lucky for sure. It is full of chlorine and calcium though. Even at that tds I get calcium build up in my fittings.
400 gallons isnt bad , i might invest into the di water
Just depends on your water, but the value is there regardless unless you have hard water then you might want to go with a bigger one.
Are you going to do a video on the bypass setup? (Please....)
Did it a few videos ago. Not on this exact setup, but it would all be the same. Just the points where the valves screw in will be closer together. th-cam.com/video/Virr2z90D4w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VZGAZ4txScEFt7hN
Sooo can I use this with a pressure washer? I would assume not as not enough water flow. Is it best to pre-foam, contact wash, use spray on sealant/topper, rinse and then migrate normal garden hose though this system as final water rinse?
You can run most electric pressure washer with this up to say an Active 2.0 as long as your water quality will allow the filters to clean at 2gpm. I just prefer if for the final rinse to use a garden hose to saturate the surface. Still
Need to make sure you regulate the flow to 2gpm as well.
Do you have a link to the short blue hose you are using?
Here you go. amzn.to/46HGlfl This listing you can choose the lengths and sizes if needed.
Great video , question the kit comes with resine and can be changed after goes bad?
Yes, comes with the bag I showed and can be changed out when needed.
Would running a filter prolong the life of the resin? Maybe something like a whole home style filter. I have a Water on the Go dual bed system that's burning through resin. I have very high TDS/hard water, so it's to be expected somewhat. Trying to figure out a way to get more life out of it.
Depends on the water. If it is city/county carbon pre-filters can help with the Chlorine and Chloramine which eats at resin. If on well water co2 could be in the water which an aeration process is needed. Either way it should help a little just by doing some filtering the resin doesn’t have to do.
Excellent review and video! I am in Texas where typical municipal water is ~150-200PPM. I am rushing to dry because of water spotting. Not a pro detailer and only washing 2 cars once a month. Dumb question: Does this particular unit have enough water flow to properly feed a pressure washer (specifically a Ryobi 2000PSI / 1.2 gpm electric) or is a larger tank needed for water storage prior to the pressure washer connection? *EDIT* It was a dumb question - 9:55 I rewatched the video and I completely missed this flow validation the first time through.
As you saw more than enough. The resin will probably last longer as the 1.2gpm or 1.4gpm with the right nozzle you will slow down the flow and the resin will be more efficient. I would still suggest the final rinse is done without pressure. The black detergent tip that came with the Ryobi is really good with the pressure washer turned off. just flowing the water through it has just the right spray pattern for rinsing.
Keav, you now have done a few reviews of these smaller portable unit (thank you). Any thoughts on factors to help pick one? Any tested that need regeneration compared to replacement of the resin?
Regeneration or replacement wouldn’t matter between them choosing which way will influence how much you spend. I have not done regeneration as I’m still tentative on using acids. I think it comes down to if you are wall mounting or not. Tank to me is the way if not wall mounting.
Just ordered mine! Thanks for testing these different DI tanks so that us viewers can choose the best option for us! Did the tank come empty??
This tank I bought came empty with the bag of resin and you will have to fill up which really is easier than dealing with Cr Spotless cartridges.
@@CarsWithKeav Awesome! Good to know that it comes with resin, I was hoping it did! Thanks again for the helpful info!
Do you prefer this one over the Waterdrop? Also if you used the aftermarket cartridges on the waterdrop, would the waterdrop be more cost effective than this one? I’m trying to decide whether to buy this one or the waterdrop. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
They would both to me be the same efficiency if you use the aftermarket cartridges. I think it comes down to the bypass and how valuable that is to you. Also changing resin can be easier with the Waterdrop you can have an extra set of cartridges ready to go for a quick swap. The tank is just the ultimate value for how
much resin it can hold for the money and the flow. My personal choice is the Waterdrop just because that bypass is amazing and nothing else like that out there.
Hi, I just bought one of these on your review. Do you still recommend keeping the Resin in tanks wet? Thanks for your videos.
DI Resin should always be stored wet. It loses its charge if not kept moist.
Man what a video! Great information and very detailed! Purchasing this as I finish typing this comment lol
Glad it was helpful!
you have another system on the wall with larger tanks...are those for the same thing...how many gallons of spot free water do you get from them
That is a cr spotless and is a DI system that costs around $400 and is built to be wall
mountable. Holds more resin and I usually get 600 to 700 gallons out of it.
It's time to put a waterbed in the guest room.
Exactly! 🤣
Your water is low that is good compared say 200pm levels at my house. The dual type resin tanks are supposedly more efficient . This kind setup is cheaper to run then a CR cartridge system correct? Great videos are you an engineer by training?
Much cheaper to run than CR Spotless and yes separate cation and anion is more efficient as one can wear out before the other and only refill what is needed and is way easier to regenerate if you are up to that task. This resin was 50/50 and there are 60/40 mixed bed resin that try to be more efficient. Never was an engineer, but it does interest me heavily.
Would you recommend this DI system? This seems to work great, definitely for a weekend warrior Auto detailer?
This is a great DI system for sure would recommend.
@@CarsWithKeav thank you! I’m gonna order it not!
Can this be used with a power washer?
Yes, it can.
Hello Keav, I'm not getting anywhere close to that performance. Before embarking on a spotless system, I had my water tested, high chlorine and 185ppm.
My setup = 3 stage x 20" Atlas Filtri - 1. Melt down Polypropylene sediment filter. 2. Carbon filter 5 micron 3. Columbian Bam Bam from your link. Started at 1ppm after maybe 12 washes + foaming, systems at 14ppm. That's practically 1ppm gain per wash. Was wondering if you tested other Bam Bam's for longevity?
Almost forgot to mention the rep said the Bam Bam might not last long so he gave me Scale Amour (stage 3.) I guess he was right.
So you are only running 1 20 inch resin canister correct? What water flow are you running at and are you using it for the whole wash or just final rinse? Not so sure if it’s city water you would need a sediment filter of course depends you might need it. Just one 20 inch you would have to be at 2gpm or less to have enough cleaning time on the resin. Switching to a 1 micron carbon filter would pickup both chemical and sediment. Then you could add another resin filter to help with cleaning time to match the flow. if I’m getting 400 gallons at 50ppm which my water acts like 100ppm due to the chlorine. So if I say double to 200ppm equivalent then 200 gallons would be a possible expected amount. Not sure how much gallons you use, but typically if you use spotless water for a whole wash it would be between 15 and 20 gallons. At those rates your gallons usage is within I would expect at 180 to 240 gallons. Is this all being run through a pressure washer? Just trying to figure out the flow rate going through the filter. Usually when it rises fast like that is due to flow being too high for the amount of resin.
@@CarsWithKeav Correct, only the last canister is resin. I use it with the Zwift foam cannon with 1.1mm nozzle. Final rinse thru a Dewalt DWPW 3000 pressure washer with the 40 nozzle (don't know the nozzle dia.). I just checked the water again but let it trickle much slower and got 2ppm. I try a flow meter and see what the flow is.
@@MikeMJCW I mean that pressure washer isn’t a lot of GPM so flow should be less than 2gpm, but hose could be pushing a lot of pressure on the Input side.
What di system would you recommend for someone like me who has water at 500-550ppm with no softener system?
That is tough you need the biggest one you can get to give plenty of cleaning time on the resin. I think a 4 foot tank would do best, but they are going to be $600 or reach out to Culligan or one of those companies to see if they will rent you one it is much cheaper at that ppm. Many at that ppm will run an RO system and store the water to be used later. Using gravity feed or a pump to deliver the clean water back through a DI system for the final clean.
This looks promising. You have 50 TDS and that yielded about 400Gal. Since I have 225 TDS likely I would yield around 100gal. Much better than CR spotless. I your opinion they have to options, one skinny and short. Are they both essentially the same with the same amount of beads?
Yes, they are the same size. The tank style do tend to be slightly more efficient than the cartridge style ones.
@@CarsWithKeavwhatever di system I used will be after our water softener cause we have hard water as well to the tune of 450 PPM. The softener brings it down to 50ppm. One less thing the Di filter will have to combat. Thanks for the videos.
@@mrprfct7069 No problem! If looking for a bigger tank style the Griots is pretty good with a bypass. Can hold twice what this Amazon one can and all for $299. I’ll have a video out on it most likely next week.
@@CarsWithKeavwow. Going to wait to see the griot vid. We have 5 cars.
Can you use an electric power washer with this?
Absolutely you can.
Another Amazing Review ! Keav Just a question does the blue tube and black tube have a difference between the two or just the sizing? Also what are your thoughts on running this in my mobile detailing van setup?
Its just difference in the outside dimensions. The inside should hold the exact same amount.
@@CarsWithKeav Awesome ! I just have to test my PPM first I know im in jersey and its badddd but think its worth trying out. TY
So this seems better than the other type reviewed before with the three small tanks, do I have that right?
As a DI system for sure its superior. The other one did have the built in bypass that costs about $50 to make yourself so it has some value there and it is wall mountable, but I myself would pick this one all day over the other one.
@@CarsWithKeav Thanks for the reply, very helpful! 😊The wall mounting is nice on the other one but I'm thinking one can sit this on a wall-shelf or something then secure it with one of those strap holders for canisters, so it stays in place.
Would this be a good replacement for the crspotless?
For me if you have a wall mount cr spotless it’s not worth going this route as you already paid for it. Cr spotless holds more resin so it will
Last longer between refills. If making a choice between the two it’s hard not to do the tank just from a coat perspective. Not very wall mountable though.
@CarsWithKeav I have the basic cr 120, which only holds 150 gallons, and so this is 400, then I'm thinking this would be better
@@FantasticDetailing Depends on your water though. Mine at 400 gallons is about the same as one cr spotless cartridge so I would think they both would do the same amount. The device itself doesn’t really do much between the two. It’s really about cost and how much resin they can hold. Resin does all the work.
I guess for me is the size, I am a mobile detailer and crspotless is big
@@FantasticDetailing Then for sure go with the tank most mobile detailers run one of these smaller FRP tanks. You only have so
Much room in a mobile setup. Especially since that unit doesn’t look to be wall mountable and is not stable standing on its own without the frame.
What's the "Inner Diameter" ID of the flexzilla hose? I want to get a reel set up but the reel set up only comes in 1/2'' ID. I have seen some of your other setups so im sure I could figure something out. Always appreciate your content thanks Keav!
You talking thread size? The inner diameter to me should not matter. The connection is where you need to make sure it can hook up. Mine is a 5/8 hose and that is the inner diameter. Flexzilla does make a 1/2 hose which I think is due to the amount that will fit on the reel and not the connection? If its about fitting on the reel not all 1/2 inner diameter hoses have the same outer diameter. Here is the 1/2 Flexzilla amzn.to/3T700z1. Let me know if I am way off on my questions. LOL
@@CarsWithKeav 5/8” ID would have better GPM versus a 1/2” ID , wasn’t sure if your hose was 1/2 or 5/8, both connections are same yes
@@ryanmccabe7272 only 1 GPM in flow separates the two sizes at 50ft 1/2 inch gets 8.5 GPM and 5/8 gets 9.5 GPM.
What tools did you use to tighten the garden hose thread to the can. It seems like it’s too deep in.
I already got mine and trying to put it together.
Should be an adapter and quick connects hose does not thread directly into the can.
@@CarsWithKeav Thank you
That's awesome
You're still first to me. LOL
Seems like a good option but if you did add a bypass wouldn’t it be more difficult to take the cap off? And if you add a bypass doesn’t the three way vale only need to be on the input? That’s what the Waterdrop looks like it has.
The top would be heavier that’s for sure, but if the hoses are disconnected then it still unscrews the same just a wider swing. I always do things extra and like valves on both sides, but is not needed. Check out the Griots one it has built in bypass and holds almost twice as much resin for $299 it is a good option as well. Same concept just bigger with a bypass. www.griotsgarage.com/portable-water-deionizer/
Thanks. Considering price points for home use would you prefer this one, Waterdrop or Griots?
@@roberthartline6061 that is such a tough decision. At the current deal the Waterdrop is my choice got that really nice built in bypass and it’s wall mountable. It’s only $238 right now. You’ll need to change over to bill canisters on the first refill and at that point it will be the same amount of resin at the spotbye cheap tank.
Thanks. I’m going to use this with a Giraffe wall mounted pressure washer. The Waterdrop manual says 1gpm which seems low but if I use the 1.4 nozzle I should be ok from what I’ve read.
You should be fine with a Giraffe Pressure Washer.
Thank you sir !!!!!!
Most welcome!
I bought the same one about a month ago and had some water leakage with the included hose adapters. My starting tds was 350ppm and I couldn't get lower than about 20ppm through the filter, and unfortunately it left water spots on my black car. Perhaps this might work if your starting tds is lower than 200...
TDS is a tricky game as there are so many other factors as well that impact it, but I would agree if above 300 you should be looking at larger tanks that have more surface area to filter fully. One question what water flow was it running at? If you were able to dial it down to 2.5gpm or as low as 2.0 gpm would it filter to 0ppm. I am able to run my hose water through full blast, but it would not get to 0 ppm due to it flowing faster than the resin can filter. If you have a higher amount of calcium even 10 to 15 ppm could leave water spots. mine leaked as well which is why you need to use lots of teflon tape which is included.
@@CarsWithKeav yeah I used a lot of teflon, and I rewrapped it after the first leak which was a lot more than the 2nd leak. I was hoping it was something I could put inside the garage but that wouldn't work out for me. I think initially my water pressure was around 40gpm but after connecting to the pressure washer, I think quickly it would slow it down to at most 1.2-1.8gpm since the flow would be regulated by the pressure washer (using a small Ryobi)? Perhaps I need to go wash at my parents' house as their tds reading is only 40ppm 🙂
I bought this exact one and washing my car, is still water spots. Do I need to let the water run for a bit before starting to hose down the car?? I filled up the tank halfway with resin
What kind of water spots? If you leave the car to dry especially outside all the dirt in the air will eventually attract to the beads and will dry as a spot, but it’s an easy to wipe away one and not one that would etch into the paint. This unit needs to be full of resin to work properly and clean faster. What is the flow rate of your water coming out? You have to dial it back to nor more than 2.5gpm. If not water will move faster than the resin can clean. What is your tds going into the tank?
@@CarsWithKeav thanks for the reply. I filled my tank up about 3/4 with resin. And the hose prior to the hookup is 400 PPM. Then turning the hose on about halfway to water flowing through, it gets to as low as 120 ppm and will fluctuate up to 180 ppm. And the water spots are etched into the painting, it’s not what you are saying with the dirty air. My PPM is too high. Do you think it’s because I have my hose turned on too much with too much water flowing? I don’t have a connection to test my GPM
@@vincentcaputo1689 Without knowing the GPM it’s hard to tell. My line can do 8gpm so if I cut in half it will still do almost twice the max of the tank. 400ppm is very high and 120 would give water spots for sure. This tank full at 2gpm might be able to get it into low tds territory, but couldn’t guarantee 0 ppm. You could for sure get 0, but it might be at a flow rate too low to be useable. Try lowering the flow down gradually to see if the tds continues to get lower maybe even to 0 and then check how much GPM it is. If you have a bucket and a scale you can measure the gpm by running the water into the bucket for exactly a minute. Weigh the bucket before and subtract that from the weight divide by 8.34 and that is your gpm. If you have a bucket with measurements on it then you can skip the whole scale thing and just use that.
@@CarsWithKeav thank you for the detailed advice. I really appreciate it. I will try this shortly and hopefully it works.
@@CarsWithKeav I tried with 2.75 GPM and 5GPM and it seemed the 2.5 was a better consistency but PPM still averaging around 120-160PPM. I don’t understand why I can’t get it below 100 PPM consistently. The second I turn it on, my PPM is around 60-80PPM but only for a few seconds.
Novice getting into car driveway detailing. Torn between this one, or Envig..
I think this is the better of the two, but the envig has the bypass and you can see the resin change color. Both are great though.
@CarsWithKeav thanks for replying. Went down DI rabbit hole. Ended up ordering waterdrop, bypass was selling point. #ColumbianBamBam
It’s a solid product! My favorite overall DI system.
Did you calibrate the TDS meters?
The ones in the video no as they can’t be calibrated except the in/out one, but they just didn’t work enough to calibrate. I now have one that I have calibrated with 342ppm water and it is very close to the ones I used a little less than they stated actually.
Thanks Kiel, I have the CR spotless DIC 10 set up, going into my pressure washer. Would it be too redundant to add this DI in front of my CR unit? I would have this connected to the house, then a hose to the CR, which feeds the Pressure washer. My rationale is, perhaps it would increase the life of the CR DI Resin, and I could use this and replace it more frequently? What are your thoughts? Thanks.
I mean it would make the cr spotless last longer due to this unit doing all the cleaning so then the cr spotless is not even needed. You would not know when it needs to be refilled as the cr spotless is going to pickup the slack then you will be filling up both of them at the same time. I think investing in a pre-filter with a carbon block and sediment filter would probably be better than running back to back DI systems. If you already have a cr spotless I think yo have all you need for a DI system.
@@CarsWithKeav Thank You for replying. I really appreciate your Reviews and expertise. When you mention a “carbon block” and sediment filter, I have used a “Camco RV inline filter”. Which type of filter ”Carbon Block” system would you suggest? Do you have videos addressing this issue? Thanks again for responding. P.S. Your review helped me in my getting Giraffe G20 Thanks 👍🏾🙏🏾😊.
@@ltakallen I don't have a specific video, but the type of water you have will determine the type of pre-filter. Is it City/County water or is it well water or a water source that is from the ground? City water tends to be full of chlorine and the carbon block will help there. Chlorine eats up resin as does co2 which would be present in some well water (aerator would help here to work the c02 out which requires storing water). Sediment will help with particles so the resin is just dealing with less and the carbon block as well taking the chemicals out which are not dissolved solids.
@@CarsWithKeav Thank You for your response. I will look into the carbon pre filter. I have “city water, I believe @ 30-50ppm. I seem to be going through the resin on my CR too quickly so instead of buying more resin at 70.00 per, I am seeking a fix. I have already installed a bypass on the CR which has helped. Thanks again, I’ll keep ya posted on my progress. Love the Channel and your reviews 🙏🏾😊. Cheers
@@ltakallen I’m at 50 - 60 and my CR spotless gets about 700 gallons. Way less than what they state. Every Resin I have tried I am at least 20% less which I attribute to the chlorine in city water. I am now running a chlorine blocker carbon filter that seems to be helping.
What was your tds going into the DI TANK
At around 7:20 in the video you can see it is 53ppm going into the tank.
Do you have any recommendations for a prefilter setup/components I should use before that tank to make the resin last longer?
If on city/county water carbons filters. If I’m on well water one sediment filter and one carbon filter. Sediment filter first.
@@CarsWithKeav standard 2.5x10 size or do I want a larger one? Does it matter if its granulated vs solid charcoal for our car washing purposes?
@@supersean58 I always prefer 10x4.5 if going into a DI system of this size. I like this filter been using it for awhile plus it’s 1 micron. amzn.to/4ehdIcc
@@CarsWithKeav just wanted to follow up and say thank you for making this video, i bought the spotless system in your video and went from ~240 ppm to between 0-2 ppm. I'm going to add that pre filter next month to help a bit more as well
What garden house reel do you have in the video, the blue one?
I just got mine today and the lowest ppm I get is like 6-7
What’s the incoming TDS and water flow?
@@CarsWithKeav it’s the the white one you had in your video, I don’t think is says the TDS and the water flow is barley on
But now says it’s at 21
At 93.2 f
@@noahwilson4536 The ppm reading of your water before it enters the filter. You would be surprised how slow 2gpm is water wise. Was the internal tube fully seated?
400 gallons🤔 Under what TSD? 350 is the average water.
My ppm is 50 to 60. At 350 probably looking at 75 to 100 gallons.
Why would you use galvanized plumbing parts? Rust is on the way. I was informed there is no galvanized parts. It is SS.
Can I ask what here is galvanized? Everything I used is 304 stainless from the adapters to the T valves and it wasn't cheap. I would love to use galvanized as its much cheaper, but you would have rust issue like you said.
@@CarsWithKeav Sorry it looked liked Galvanized. I will change my coment.
Hey Keav
Is the blue tds meter linked to this video one of the best ones you have used?
Accuracy wise!
Thanks
It’s very good and can be calibrated which is why I purchased it. So if it’s not accurate you can fix it.
@@CarsWithKeav thanks! 👍🏻
@@CarsWithKeavhey Keav, me again.
I bought the tds meter and my tap water is at 350ppm.
Is it even worth getting a DI solution?
If yes, which one is the best for this kind of ppm?
I’m assuming any I buy I will probably go thru resin like crazy.
@@dannysuarez6923 350 is in that middle ground where DI is still worth it. Anything more and RO system would be a big help. you will spend more in resin than others, but if you get a decent sized tank you will get quite a few washes. Something like the Griots DI system is an idea it’s well priced and can hold way more resin than they actually put in there. Enough to where you should be able to get 200 to 300 gallons of spotless water. Has built in bypass as well I just tested one and should have a video it in a few weeks. I also plan to work on resin regeneration showing how and the materials to get once I have that dialed in I’ll make a video. That will save some money.
@@CarsWithKeav ok cool thanks! I’ll wait to see those videos. Take care!
Do you think that there are any differences between the black and blue one? The black one has 40$ but with a subscription attached to it whereas the blue one has flat 40$ off.
They are the same size just different height. Black one is bulkier and shorter and the blue one is skinnier and taller. I am not seeing the $40 being tied to the subscription. Though. You can just make sure the one time purchase is checked and should be good. Not sure why a subscription is tied to that makes no sense. I would understand the resin being on a subscription.
@@CarsWithKeav I think it was for the resin, but then I wouldn't want to be tied to a subscription for it. Thanks for the reply
@@CarsWithKeav When I'm signed into Amazon I see "$40 off coupon with Subscribe and Save only". I've I'm not signed in, I just see the $40 off coupon. Strange. I set the subscribe to every 6 month. Then I see $40 off plus $9.50 off for subscribe. I'll cancel the subscription after the item arrives.
@@aubreywhitley6889 I saw the same thing with the 40$ with subscription. So you're saying if you're signed in, youre going to get the black one and cancel the subscription later?
@@aubreywhitley6889 Weird and you have a Prime subscription? Just trying to find out why some are getting this scenario.
What do we need to convert this into 5/8?
Is it a 5/8 inch garden hose? If it it then they will have a 3/4 garden hose thread and will work with their adapters. I was using a 5/8 garden hose in the video as well.
Thank you
I currently have 39 PPM out of my tap water, would you buy this or on the go dual bed kit, we use about 275 gallons of water a week
That is very low ppm, but that is also a lot of gallons. I think running dual bed is the better option and if you can recharge the resin to save more money.
Finally... Got lucky and Amazon got a few in under the link you provided. Now for a quick question: While Amazon was out-of-stock, I did find a new Blue one on eBay (not the complete kit, but just the bare tank and the inner parts. No fittings or handle). Amazon is still out of resin... What do you recommend when your viewers cannot get hold of the 'Colombian Bam Bam Refill' resin? Also, I can't locate, anywhere online, a manual or find parts for these (at some point I'll need new seals)? I did reach out to the manufacturer and fired off an email and no reply as expected.
Good thing is it’s a common standard for most of these tanks. I would expect the seals to be not so hard to find. Might need a caliper to find the measurements. I see it’s back in stock, but this is the next cheapest, but is a bigger bag at 11lbs vs the 8lb bam bam. amzn.to/49amG7e
Great! I'll grab that and weigh out 8lbs. Their Blue Tank would also take 8 lbs too?@@CarsWithKeav
@@still-DJ You could probably stuff a little more than that in there. they both should have the same capacity just different shapes.
Thank you in advance for your help. I just want to get this right. I'm on well water in Arizona and right now my TDS is 920 after a water softener. And if this hard water dries and leaves water spots on the windows, I can only remove them with a hammer (lol). @@CarsWithKeav
@@still-DJ Water spots will be a problem for sure. This dI system will be a good start, but being honest that TDS the resin won’t last long if it can get to 0ppm. I don’t have experience with tds that high, but I know a lot do people in areas like that and they end up running reverse osmosis in the end.
i thought under 20 ppm was spotless
That depends on what is in that ppm. That is usually what most say, but way too much time to waste waiting for it to get to 20. 5 to 10 should be when you order your refills. It would go from 10 to 20 very fast resin degrades quickly once spent.
@@CarsWithKeav ah ok thank you sir. You think you can show an affordable diy RO system? Windowcleaner sells it way too expensive imo
@@Coldlegend214 I did one earlier this year showing how to store and use. Pros and cons as well. Not sure that system is enough for window cleaning you need a certain amount of flow there. The more flow the more expensive they get. th-cam.com/video/BpQmEDUHFRU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4xCIWo8eAzL0ueWt People tell me really
Good things about this one it’s just an RO by itself, but is stainless and heavy duty. $100 for housing and $150 for the filter. Good enough for 1.5gpm. Might try to build a setup one day. amzn.to/3WRokHV
@@CarsWithKeav thanks man you rock!
Whaat?! First again?? 😂
You are on fire!