Loving these DI series of videos! Keep up the good work!! My issue with most DI resin is the mixed bed. While much easier to deal with, you almost always burn through the anion faster than the cation. So a 50/50 mix ends up wasting usable material. While a 60/40, 70/30, or even 80/20 (depending on the supply of water), anion/cation ratio would be better. A test with separate DI anion and cation stages would be cool to see. Possibly using clear canisters and color-changing resin? Also, not having a mixed bed would make re-generation easier, for those who do that.
Different mixes for sure can help and like you said it’s about what is in the water you have. My biggest problem is 60/40 and others are more expensive than running a 50/50 so you have to add that into your cost formula to know if it’s worth it. Separate resin is actually not as efficient at cleaning water as mixed bed due to the reactions happening at the same time rather than separate. The reef aquarium guys have done tons of testing to prove that the best setup is separate cation and anion then a 3rd stage that is mixed bed for the final cleanup. I do plan to make a regenerate your own resin video at some point not just how to, but obviously picking out a good efficient setup to do it. If you can perfect the anion regeneration step with a mixed bed then it’s the same amount of steps than regenerating them separate. That step separates and regenerates at the same time just capturing the resin easily is the hard part.
@@CarsWithKeav can you find an affordable supplier of the regen chemicals (muriatic acid and potassium hydroxide)? I calculated the total to regenerate my 50lb tank and remember it costing more than 100. I regened about 5 pounds but felt like it wasn't worth all the trouble.
@@Hot.Tamale714 That’s my concern is it worth the trouble. I’m working to figure out a regen setup to try this out. Muriatic acid can be found at Home Depot I know that much.
I say it all the time. My neighbors look at me weird when I’m working in the yard. I’ll Mohawk a strip of grass or maybe trim to much and just call myself stupid. 🤣
Agreed, that’s why I run my carbon filters 100% of the time they will save pressure washer hose fittings as all the hose end connection internals are usually steel. Stainless steel quick connects only help so much when the threaded part of the hose and the seal crimp are just steel.
Hi Keav, I've watched the end of the video a few times and I'm a little confused. Between 1 Resin/1 carbon, 2 resin, and 2 carbon, which one performed the best? Thanks, keep up the good work!
The tests were 1 resin filter followed by 1 carbon & 1 resin then repeated a second time for both to make sure we have consistent numbers. Carbon was better both times by close to 20%. Carbon filter always first inline.
Thx for all the do water videos,I’ve watched them all I believe some more than once. Got a scenario I guess I’d best description, I’m building a mobile detail setup in a metris 126, Ralda’s details is building me a skid waiting on delivery now basically. Anyway I’m looking for a way to run di water on the setup that is filtered as I use it so I don’t have to filter every gallon. My waters tds is low, or feels low after watching a lot of di water stuff, low is around 26-27 high around 32-33. I really like the wall setup, I was thinking of running 10 in housings and do a pre filter like you did with the 2 pre filters before it goes to the di setup, can the 10” cr or water drop handle the 2 gpm, or would I be better with the griots tank ? Either way I’m planning on doing the prefilters, I also considered after watching your bypass video just buying 10 in housings and then all 4 could match, Anyway hopefully you can help save me some wasted time and point me in the right direction. Thx
They both can handle 2gpm. The Cr spotless for much longer period of time. The Waterdrop filters don’t have a ton of resin in them, but at that low TDS it should be able to handle 2gpm. Cr spotless will do it easily as it has twice if not more resin in the cartridges. The griots has almost twice the resin of the either one and has twice the gpm. If you have room for it that’s the better one just that tank size and height might be taking up a bit of space.
@@CarsWithKeav thx keav, the griots is a good value also, I’ve not received the skid for my van yet so I’m not exactly sure on room available but I was really planning on mounting it kinda similar to your wall setup on the back side of the water tank Appreciate the response, keep up the content
greetings Keav. just a rough reference (even it was explicitly mentioned that same ppm wont equate to same water quality) , how much ppm was it before it run to the 2-stage filter? sorry if i missed
Problem is most of those don’t have enough flow to run a pressure washer or rinse a car. Some can, but get very expensive. Then you got to deal with the waste water as well. I’ve been looking into a solution, but won’t be cheap. Suds and Go already created a very good one. th-cam.com/video/7HBrqd93bEI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0BiDGu0g39LZnidQ
Great video, and don't you just love when test results go astray. Random thought, but as expensive as DI water is to produce, we need a chemical injector that we can add rinseless to at 256:1. A 50 buck gallon of rinseless can produce 256 gallons of softened water ready for drying. What's the cost for 250 gallons of DI water?
That is a great idea unsure of the shelf life on diluted product. Should last a few months if sealed. I’ll ask Yvan at DIY Detail when I see him this weekend and see what he thinks about that.
@CarsWithKeav I was actually thinking that instead I f using DI water, we somehow inject the chemical into the water supply before a pressure washer. It could possibly be turned on during a rinse step to replace DI water. Also saw today an email from Adam's. They have a pro DI unit they claim to filter something like 2,000 gallons at 100ppm.
Keav would like you to review this water treatment option . PRO+AQUA 16,000 Grain Portable Water Softener for RV, Trailers, . Would be inrested to see how this would compare to using DI units for effectiveness and cost per use.
You would have to convert to DI resin so cost wise it would be much more. It’s the same tank type as DI, but water softener resin does not create spotless water it only removes a few solids such as calcium, sodium and magnesium. It is only half of the deionization process. Mixed bed resin is positive and negative ions and water softener resin is only the positive ions.
Good video. Now I see it's not worthwhile to filter before the resin. Sure it does something, but in my case it's not "easy" to add a pre filter due to space.
Calculating cost per gallon is going to be the deciding factor for sure as you have to make up for the cost of the pre-filter and filter for it to be worth it. Space absolutely is another reason. I would say carbon filter are more beneficial to those with lower tds. The higher tds the minerals are smothering the resin faster than the chlorine can probably kill it.
Thank You, I would bank on 10% to 15% all depends on how much chlorine is in your water. Just as a full time filter it will help save your fittings from rusting from the chlorine. That is how I run my system carbon filters run 100% of the time.
I have seen that unit and talked to him about it. It’s pretty cool, but very expensive. One day I will build something like it hopefully enough to run say a Ryobi 1.2gpm straight from RO filter.
Hey Keav thanks for this video. My tap water is about 270ppm. I purchased this WaterDrop Spotless and I've used it like three times and ppm went up over 20. I only used it to do final rinse. When I replaced filter, I noticed L filter was at 17 ppm and R filter was at 4ppm. I put a new filter on Right cartridge, moved what was on R filter to left filter . I still got water spots. That could be me not rinsing it thoroughly. So should I buy this new carbon filter system and connect it to Waterdrop (2 systems filtering water)? or should I run resin cartridge and one carbon cartridge on my Waterdrop system? Do you have any links that can hold the resin in a cointainer? since it only comes in cartridges from Waterdrop. Waterdrop seems to have a non common water container size.
The Waterdrop filters don’t have enough resin to handle TDS in that range. Best to go with a bulk filter. I did a review in the Waterdrop and show in the video how to upgrade to a 4.5x10 bulk resin canister and add the resin. th-cam.com/video/SbBFH07FBcg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=srjzdXHrJmaCI7Nq Would at least double the length of time. 270 tds is kind of at the limit with a 10 inch system. 20 inch would be more suitable I also made a video a few weeks ago going over upgrading a water drop to 20 inch. th-cam.com/video/SRJ4HVlk5bE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9i1uYx618D7X27k2
if james bond was a auto detailer keav would be his Q - “today bond i’ve made a battery operated foam cannon in your watch, there’s a tds meter in the heal of your left shoe, and this unassuming ink pen…click it 3 times and viola! a water deionizer complete with swivel connects” 😜🐿️💨
One way to know is have pressure gauges on the filter housings some systems come with them already. Changes in the pressure show the filter being used up. Other than that I just change mine out once a year. Most are good for 10k+ gallons depending on the water so even the worst water will do 1k gallons.
Pro Aqua is cation resin so half the DI process which would then exhaust the anion resin that’s is in the mixed bed before the cation there goes bad. In the end I think the cost saving of just having a larger DI system with a carbon filter is better. Plus carbon to water softener to DI is a lot of systems tied together, but I see what you mean. It’s a bit too much for me to want to try it.
One way to know is have pressure gauges on the filter housings some systems come with them already. Changes in the pressure show the filter being used up. Other than that I just change mine out once a year. Most are good for 10k+ gallons depending on the water so even the worst water will do 1k gallons.
Deionized water itself is safe to drink, but not having any minerals it isn’t the best for you. It is actually more pure than distilled water as it does not conduct electricity. You don’t really want to drink from these filters unless all of your fittings and pipes/hoses are food grade and clean. Zero filter pitchers for example is deionized water, but food grade certified. I use those to fill up my ice maker the water I’ve comes out crystal clear.
![F.HERO Ft. JSPKK x ลำไย ไหทองคำ x M-PEE - ไม่สนิทบิดหมด (Thai Riders Anthem) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kPJZ0UihBfk/mqdefault.jpg)
Loving these DI series of videos! Keep up the good work!! My issue with most DI resin is the mixed bed. While much easier to deal with, you almost always burn through the anion faster than the cation. So a 50/50 mix ends up wasting usable material. While a 60/40, 70/30, or even 80/20 (depending on the supply of water), anion/cation ratio would be better. A test with separate DI anion and cation stages would be cool to see. Possibly using clear canisters and color-changing resin? Also, not having a mixed bed would make re-generation easier, for those who do that.
Different mixes for sure can help and like you said it’s about what is in the water you have. My biggest problem is 60/40 and others are more expensive than running a 50/50 so you have to add that into your cost formula to know if it’s worth it. Separate resin is actually not as efficient at cleaning water as mixed bed due to the reactions happening at the same time rather than separate. The reef aquarium guys have done tons of testing to prove that the best setup is separate cation and anion then a 3rd stage that is mixed bed for the final cleanup. I do plan to make a regenerate your own resin video at some point not just how to, but obviously picking out a good efficient setup to do it. If you can perfect the anion regeneration step with a mixed bed then it’s the same amount of steps than regenerating them separate. That step separates and regenerates at the same time just capturing the resin easily is the hard part.
@@CarsWithKeav can you find an affordable supplier of the regen chemicals (muriatic acid and potassium hydroxide)? I calculated the total to regenerate my 50lb tank and remember it costing more than 100. I regened about 5 pounds but felt like it wasn't worth all the trouble.
@@Hot.Tamale714 That’s my concern is it worth the trouble. I’m working to figure out a regen setup to try this out. Muriatic acid can be found at Home Depot I know that much.
Tigger is freaking adorable!! Glad im not the only one who gets mad at themselves and says,damn you're dumb😂😂
I say it all the time. My neighbors look at me weird when I’m working in the yard. I’ll Mohawk a strip of grass or maybe trim to much and just call myself stupid. 🤣
Great experiment!
Thank you!
See you feeling better
I am now.
@@CarsWithKeav good
Great stuff keav. with how long carbon filters last they're a must have. Especially since chlorine is corrosive.
Agreed, that’s why I run my carbon filters 100% of the time they will save pressure washer hose fittings as all the hose end connection internals are usually steel. Stainless steel quick connects only help so much when the threaded part of the hose and the seal crimp are just steel.
Tony Montana, “ Say Hello to my little friend” Columbian Bam Bam! 💥 great video
Thanks Tim!
Thank you
You're welcome
Dang those 10 inchers go quick
The 2.5 x 10’s sure do. The 4.5 x 10’s do last a bit longer and of course you usually run these in tandem so two filters gets double the gallons.
Good video im gonna grab that funnel for sure.
It’s a great cheap little tool.
What micron of Carbon filter are you testing with?
These are 1 micron
I was yelling at you trying to say the coil was under it lol
I spent so long wondering why my new monitor was so off and then I saw that coil. I about lost it. 🤣
Hi Keav, I've watched the end of the video a few times and I'm a little confused.
Between 1 Resin/1 carbon, 2 resin, and 2 carbon, which one performed the best?
Thanks, keep up the good work!
The tests were 1 resin filter followed by 1 carbon & 1 resin then repeated a second time for both to make sure we have consistent numbers. Carbon was better both times by close to 20%. Carbon filter always first inline.
@@CarsWithKeav Thanks for explaining it to me! Best of luck 👍
maybe taking a small sample and then testing ppm might help with consistency instead of measuring directly from bucket. Still a great video. thanks
Probably right, but I figured as long as all 4 runs were done and measured the same way it would work out.
Thx for all the do water videos,I’ve watched them all I believe some more than once. Got a scenario I guess I’d best description,
I’m building a mobile detail setup in a metris 126, Ralda’s details is building me a skid waiting on delivery now basically. Anyway I’m looking for a way to run di water on the setup that is filtered as I use it so I don’t have to filter every gallon. My waters tds is low, or feels low after watching a lot of di water stuff, low is around 26-27 high around 32-33. I really like the wall setup, I was thinking of running 10 in housings and do a pre filter like you did with the 2 pre filters before it goes to the di setup, can the 10” cr or water drop handle the 2 gpm, or would I be better with the griots tank ? Either way I’m planning on doing the prefilters, I also considered after watching your bypass video just buying 10 in housings and then all 4 could match,
Anyway hopefully you can help save me some wasted time and point me in the right direction.
Thx
They both can handle 2gpm. The Cr spotless for much longer period of time. The Waterdrop filters don’t have a ton of resin in them, but at that low TDS it should be able to handle 2gpm. Cr spotless will do it easily as it has twice if not
more resin in the cartridges. The griots has almost twice the resin of the either one and has twice the gpm. If you have room for it that’s the better one just that tank size and height might be taking up a bit of space.
@@CarsWithKeav thx keav, the griots is a good value also, I’ve not received the skid for my van yet so I’m not exactly sure on room available but I was really planning on mounting it kinda similar to your wall setup on the back side of the water tank
Appreciate the response, keep up the content
Keav in his natural habitat…Making CLEAN water.
Wasting clean water. I need a bigger storage. 🤣
@@CarsWithKeav nah! You need to figure out how to bottle it and sell it. Detailers would line up to buy Keav water.
@@JeepJL I’ll send truck loads to Jamie. 🤣
greetings Keav. just a rough reference (even it was explicitly mentioned that same ppm wont equate to same water quality) , how much ppm was it before it run to the 2-stage filter? sorry if i missed
60ppm high chlorine treated water.
Kiev, can you test out different DI resin to see their capacity, color changing or not, just like in this video?
Sounds like an idea. I’ll look into it.
Keav , check window washing hand truck with R.O.and Di water used to clean windows.
Problem is most of those don’t have enough flow to run a pressure washer or rinse a car. Some can, but get very expensive. Then you got to deal with the waste water as well. I’ve been looking into a solution, but won’t be cheap. Suds and Go already created a very good one. th-cam.com/video/7HBrqd93bEI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0BiDGu0g39LZnidQ
Great video, and don't you just love when test results go astray. Random thought, but as expensive as DI water is to produce, we need a chemical injector that we can add rinseless to at 256:1. A 50 buck gallon of rinseless can produce 256 gallons of softened water ready for drying. What's the cost for 250 gallons of DI water?
That is a great idea unsure of the shelf life on diluted product. Should last a few months if sealed. I’ll ask Yvan at DIY Detail when I see him this weekend and see what he thinks about that.
@CarsWithKeav I was actually thinking that instead I f using DI water, we somehow inject the chemical into the water supply before a pressure washer. It could possibly be turned on during a rinse step to replace DI water. Also saw today an email from Adam's. They have a pro DI unit they claim to filter something like 2,000 gallons at 100ppm.
Keav would like you to review this water treatment option . PRO+AQUA 16,000 Grain Portable Water Softener for RV, Trailers, . Would be inrested to see how this would compare to using DI units for effectiveness and cost per use.
You would have to convert to DI resin so cost wise it would be much more. It’s the same tank type as DI, but water softener resin does not create spotless water it only removes a few solids such as calcium, sodium and magnesium. It is only half of the deionization process. Mixed bed resin is positive and negative ions and water softener resin is only the positive ions.
Good video. Now I see it's not worthwhile to filter before the resin. Sure it does something, but in my case it's not "easy" to add a pre filter due to space.
Calculating cost per gallon is going to be the deciding factor for sure as you have to make up for the cost of the pre-filter and filter for it to be worth it. Space absolutely is another reason. I would say carbon filter are more beneficial to those with lower tds. The higher tds the minerals are smothering the resin faster than the chlorine can probably kill it.
You are doing great work here! Thanks for your investment and content. 20% extra length on resin is worth the investment.
Thank You, I would bank on 10% to 15% all depends on how much chlorine is in your water. Just as a full time filter it will help save your fittings from rusting from the chlorine. That is how I run my system carbon filters run 100% of the time.
Keav , check out the spotless water guy . He has a nice unit , but expensive. Tony raldasdetails just purchased one.
I have seen that unit and talked to him about it. It’s pretty cool, but very expensive. One day I will build something like it hopefully enough to run say a Ryobi 1.2gpm straight from RO filter.
Hey Keav thanks for this video. My tap water is about 270ppm.
I purchased this WaterDrop Spotless and I've used it like three times and ppm went up over 20. I only used it to do final rinse. When I replaced filter, I noticed L filter was at 17 ppm and R filter was at 4ppm. I put a new filter on Right cartridge, moved what was on R filter to left filter . I still got water spots. That could be me not rinsing it thoroughly.
So should I buy this new carbon filter system and connect it to Waterdrop (2 systems filtering water)? or should I run resin cartridge and one carbon cartridge on my Waterdrop system? Do you have any links that can hold the resin in a cointainer? since it only comes in cartridges from Waterdrop. Waterdrop seems to have a non common water container size.
The Waterdrop filters don’t have enough resin to handle TDS in that range. Best to go with a bulk filter. I did a review in the Waterdrop and show in the video how to upgrade to a 4.5x10 bulk resin canister and add the resin. th-cam.com/video/SbBFH07FBcg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=srjzdXHrJmaCI7Nq Would at least double the length of time. 270 tds is kind of at the limit with a 10 inch system. 20 inch would be more suitable I also made a video a few weeks ago going over upgrading a water drop to 20 inch. th-cam.com/video/SRJ4HVlk5bE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9i1uYx618D7X27k2
@@CarsWithKeav Thanks for the quick reply Keav. You are the best. Will be watching these videos now. I appreciate your dedication.
if james bond was a auto detailer keav would be his Q - “today bond i’ve made a battery operated foam cannon in your watch, there’s a tds meter in the heal of your left shoe, and this unassuming ink pen…click it 3 times and viola! a water deionizer complete with swivel connects” 😜🐿️💨
That’s awesome! Might have to do a 007 satire intro with the car one day.
@@CarsWithKeav if anyone could do it, it’d be you!!! 😆
How do you know when the carbon is used up?
One way to know is have pressure gauges on the filter housings some systems come with them already. Changes in the pressure show the filter being used up. Other than that I just change mine out once a year. Most are good for 10k+ gallons depending on the water so even the worst water will do 1k gallons.
Carbon filter connected to Pro Aqua 1600 to a D.I. .
Should help reduce D.I. Resin cost.
Pro Aqua is cation resin so half the DI process which would then exhaust the anion resin that’s is in the mixed bed before the cation there goes bad. In the end I think the cost saving of just having a larger DI system with a carbon filter is better. Plus carbon to water softener to DI is a lot of systems tied together, but I see what you mean. It’s a bit too much for me to want to try it.
how do you know when your cabon filter needs to be replaced?
One way to know is have pressure gauges on the filter housings some systems come with them already. Changes in the pressure show the filter being used up. Other than that I just change mine out once a year. Most are good for 10k+ gallons depending on the water so even the worst water will do 1k gallons.
@@CarsWithKeav thanks for all the information
Can be use for drink or just car wash
Just car wash.
Definitely do not want to drink deionized water.
Deionized water itself is safe to drink, but not having any minerals it isn’t the best for you. It is actually more pure than distilled water as it does not conduct electricity. You don’t really want to drink from these filters unless all of your fittings and pipes/hoses are food grade and clean. Zero filter pitchers for example is deionized water, but food grade certified. I use those to fill up my ice maker the water I’ve comes out crystal clear.
First!!!
👍