How to Synchronize / Balance your Honda Goldwing GL1500 carburetors yourself

This video is a quick run-through on how to synchronize your GL1500 Honda Goldwing carburetors for years 1988 to 2000. The 88 model has a fitting on each side of the manifold to connect the Vacuum gauges to. On newer models, you will have to purchase or make a connector for one side to be able to connect the gauges to. To stop the needle from jumping and get an accurate reading you can either purchase a valve to close up the vacuum line going into the gauge just enough where its still moves but not jump or just pinch the line until it stops jumping but not enough to where its blocking all the vacuum pressure. The gauges were purchased from Harbor Freight for under $15 each.
Vacuum Tester
www.harborfrei...

[@MyCBCMedia]

Suggest also checking that both gauges read identically, or note the difference between gauges by attaching both of them to a single vacuum source first. Knowing that variance first is a way to ‘balance’ the gauges before using them to balance those carbs.
I appreciate this simple short video showing where that screw is for adjustment, thank you!!

[@johnnybolen5701]

Thanks for the video showing me where the screw was. I work on Volkswagen dune buggies and I am always synchronize the carbs on them. Thanks again for the video.

[@toddbumgardner379]

Man, I had the seat off, and all the side covers and air breather removed lol. You got me back on the right path! I have an identical 1988 gl. Great video, very helpful! Thanks!!

[@mvanalst2003]

Thank you for creating this amazing video on carb syncing!

[@sezh5176]

The screw is a compleat ballache to find and to stay on when blipping the throttle

[@kensmith3665]

Why are you using T connectors.? I can’t quite see where the tubes from each t connector go and the engine noise drowned out what you said at the critical moment… something about the other manifold…. Would it not be better to just connect each gauge to the manifold only? Thanks for your help. I seek only to understand all this before I begin. Thanks for the video.

[@notewriter]

I’ve also adjusted a dozen or so carbs on these GL1500’s and the reasoning for using a “T” is to maintain the complete vacuum circuit within the “closed” emission system in which those vacuum tubes are part of. ei. The vacuum gauge (s) ARE connected directly to the intake manifold on each side, and a “T” is inserted in each line to re-plug the factory vacuum tube into that to maintain the “closed” system within the emission system. “Hope that helps explain it some?” I also found that using a long 1/4” extension with an 8mm socket stayed on the adjusting screw head better than trying to manipulate and maintain a flat head screwdriver on point? Good luck.

[@pedlpower]

I agree that the gauges should be connected to the manifold only. No T. Otherwise, whatever is in that vacuum circuit could affect the reading. There could be a leak in that circuit or they could be connected to each other.
Connect to the manifold only and plug the hose you pulled off.

[@rjptexoma]

Can you sync a gl1500 with one Guage? Get your left carb read, then move to the right side? Will this stop surging?

[@aliarasteh1012]

thanks

[@williamwitzke953]

I have a 98 1500.
I am getting a surge.
How do i fix it???

[@slobodansikuljak5913]

What is the mileage of your 98?

[@williamwitzke953]

@@slobodansikuljak5913 122,000

[@aliarasteh1012]

😍

[@chowchow6986]

on my 1990 gl1500se, i found a philip screw there, i adjusted it but seems nothing happened.

[@billbergquist4722]

wrong screw. that one clamps the carb to manifold. look up and to the right a bit and not so far in.

[@JohnSmith-uy7sv]

it was a smidgen hair difference. If it ain't broke don't fix it. I've rebuilt my carbs and had then in and out a few times and have no idea what screw you are talking about. There's nothing to adjust on that carb bank and not from down there. Can't reach the air screws.

[@billbergquist4722]

yes there is.

[@aliarasteh1012]

flw mi plz