as a paramedic, the first thing I thought of regarding the straw dipping of dyes was to us a syringe. This could allow you to document "your recipe" measurements and potentially make some additional dye if you need more of that same color. For example, 4 cc or ml of a color to a specific volume of water so your ratios in your formula are consistent. And the syringes could easily be flush with clean water. I hope this helps and I would be remiss in not telling you that you are one of my favorite you tube channels.
This was a great video. I have a suggestion, Why not pick up some needleless syringes the next time you are at Walgreens and measure and write down all of the figures. I think that would help better if you're trying to get to a particular shade that you like or that you need to match.
10:00 . . . For more consistent results, More so when working a larger project... say complete set of kitchen cabinets, I suggest using a basting / marinade syringe. And also note, that whether or not you can eyeball such things... It's nice to know that you can reproduce results 1st try for repairs or if you had to pause your personal project for weeks, because of life. That's my two cents for the cookie jar.
I really like the dowel cutter and made one. I made a couple mods. I cut 3 rows of various depth notches to accommodate various size dowels. I also made more than one cut with the saw at various distances from the edge.
Hi Colin, with the ratchet strap & block technique if you get the blocks placed in the middle first & the strap tight enough. You can adjust the pressure across each joint by moving the blocks closer to each join.
The last clip with liquid dyes - if you go to the craft shop you can find packs of cheap plastic 'pipettes' (the correct name for them) in the art/paint section, with graduations cast into the side of the tube and the closed end has a bulb as part of the casting so you can use it to suck up tiny dribbles left in the bottom of the bottle. It also helps you create a log of what amount of dye/stain/paint you used to create a particular color (3 drops of Sinister Sauce and just a Touch of Tenderness.....). Also handy for mixing weed killer, and it doesn't make your coffee taste odd if you forget which spoon you used for measuring.
An idea for a sled stop: Take any scrap (for example, say a 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 3") and screw (say a 2" construction screw), drill a pilot hole the length of the screw into one edge, run it all the way in then back it out halfway. Now you have a stop block you can clamp onto the fence, butt the workpiece up against the screw head, and no sawdust buildup. For small adjustments you don't need to re-clamp the stop, just adjust the screw. As long as you don't clamp it with the metal screw in the path of the sawblade, you're all set!
My viewer tip is for drying paint brushes quickly. Sometimes you need to clean your brush and put it right back in the paint, but the cleaner (whether water or what have you) takes too long to dry. Since most brushes have a hole in the handle, I take a length of cord and tie a loop in one end. Then I can thread the other end through the handle and the loop, and my brush-on-a-string is securely fastened. Now I can whirl it around for about 15 seconds or so, and the centrifugal force removes almost all the water, and it is dry and ready for re-use. If you do it frequently, wear a glove, since the string can do a bit of burning on your fingers. Even if you don't need to to re-use the brush immediately, drying it quickly is still a good practice.
Hand placement induced by the dowel jig could be life changing, especially on a sliding miter saw. Make the jig wider so you can hold it from the side and not directly in the path of the blade.
I noticed that immediately although I tend to spot potential saw related disasters quickly since I currently own 1 badly mutilated middle finger, and one nub where my forefinger once lived, due to a poorly mounted C clamp and an unforgiving Dado head
yep i was thinking that too - you could come up with a recipe book on how to get different stain colours so that way you know exactly what you are getting
Those are some great viewer tips Colin. I've used the ratchet strap but never used the wood blocks which makes the strap work perfectly. I made a clock once that needed small half inch pieces of molding but dangerous to cut them on a miter saw & sometimes they get kicked out & flying off the saw. That dowel cutter holder would even work for this.
Really like your videos and all the helpful ideas you present. Thanks for sharing your information, I know it will help me in my wood working projects.
my wife has asthma and her medicine comes in a small clear flexible plastic tube "ampule" that you break the end off but makes a very good "pipette " better than a eyedropper , she uses them in her craft painting projects where she needs just a few drops. saves lots of paints and dies
The dowel jig could be even more productive by adding in another slot or two. You could have decreasing size slots (biggest furthest away from hinge) and cut multiple diameter dowels at the same time
He may not be in Canada still. Those are washer head pocket screws which are almost always Robertson, no matter the country. Where in the world is Colin Knecht?
11:20 There is another option for you to transfer liquids instead of using the "evil outlaw" plastic straw. Get a glass eyedropper with a rubber or silicon top. It's a lot easier to count drops than it is to measure what's inside of a straw.
If you look carefully at your 90-degree stop block (not the saddle one), when you clamp it to the sled fence the clamp pulls the corner of the block up slightly (you can see by the gap at the bottom) so your block is no longer at 90-degrees. This could also happen with your saddle block if you are not careful. That is why I prefer never to have a flat, 90-degree surface as a stop block. It is actually better to have the block with a less than 90-degree angle so that you will always register your work piece against the bottom of the block, even if it is tilted a few degrees from vertical. Alternatively, I usually use stop blocks with a round-head screw driven into them which both provides a near point-like reference distance as well as allows fine adjustment by turning the screw.
Dang that's a really good idea. I've seen the issue before but never thought to make it with rounded and even adjustable point of contact. Thanks for taking the time to write it out clearly.
Your hand is in a very dangerous position when you are using the dowel cut off jig, you need to make it so your fingers are not in the path of the saw blade kick back happens
The miter saw blade is rotating down, resulting in the jig being pushed down into the table and back into the fence, so I would think the likelihood of any kind of kickback occurring would be minimal.
8/22/2021 USA Grandpa Bill: Colin, not many of us have the kind of money to buy expensive mag switches. You took a wonderful cheap poor wood worker's idea and made it more expensive. I wish you rich guys would remember that we come up with these ideas because poverty makes for great inventions.
as a paramedic, the first thing I thought of regarding the straw dipping of dyes was to us a syringe. This could allow you to document "your recipe" measurements and potentially make some additional dye if you need more of that same color. For example, 4 cc or ml of a color to a specific volume of water so your ratios in your formula are consistent. And the syringes could easily be flush with clean water. I hope this helps and I would be remiss in not telling you that you are one of my favorite you tube channels.
This was a great video. I have a suggestion, Why not pick up some needleless syringes the next time you are at Walgreens and measure and write down all of the figures. I think that would help better if you're trying to get to a particular shade that you like or that you need to match.
10:00 . . .
For more consistent results,
More so when working a larger project...
say complete set of kitchen cabinets,
I suggest using a basting / marinade syringe.
And also note, that whether or not you can eyeball such things...
It's nice to know that you can reproduce results 1st try for repairs or if you had to pause your personal project for weeks, because of life.
That's my two cents for the cookie jar.
I'm making me a slide for my tablesaw this week. Love the stop idea.thanks.
I really like the dowel cutter and made one. I made a couple mods. I cut 3 rows of various depth notches to accommodate various size dowels. I also made more than one cut with the saw at various distances from the edge.
Hi Colin, with the ratchet strap & block technique if you get the blocks placed in the middle first & the strap tight enough. You can adjust the pressure across each joint by moving the blocks closer to each join.
Yes that’s how I do it and it works really well. U can really get them very tight if u want to.
The last clip with liquid dyes - if you go to the craft shop you can find packs of cheap plastic 'pipettes' (the correct name for them) in the art/paint section, with graduations cast into the side of the tube and the closed end has a bulb as part of the casting so you can use it to suck up tiny dribbles left in the bottom of the bottle. It also helps you create a log of what amount of dye/stain/paint you used to create a particular color (3 drops of Sinister Sauce and just a Touch of Tenderness.....). Also handy for mixing weed killer, and it doesn't make your coffee taste odd if you forget which spoon you used for measuring.
Love the drill press dust collection solution. Thanks to you and all your suggestion submitters for the ridiculously simple ideas!
An idea for a sled stop: Take any scrap (for example, say a 3/4" x 3 1/2" x 3") and screw (say a 2" construction screw), drill a pilot hole the length of the screw into one edge, run it all the way in then back it out halfway. Now you have a stop block you can clamp onto the fence, butt the workpiece up against the screw head, and no sawdust buildup. For small adjustments you don't need to re-clamp the stop, just adjust the screw. As long as you don't clamp it with the metal screw in the path of the sawblade, you're all set!
I always learn something new with these videos. Thanks Colin!
Ive got a tip colin. Since when has a ratchet strap been a ratchet cable? 😂. Informative content colin. A few good tips there
These are brilliant. The dowel idea is first class
Awesome tips. Going to try them out. For sure the shop vac pick up. Thank you.
My viewer tip is for drying paint brushes quickly. Sometimes you need to clean your brush and put it right back in the paint, but the cleaner (whether water or what have you) takes too long to dry. Since most brushes have a hole in the handle, I take a length of cord and tie a loop in one end. Then I can thread the other end through the handle and the loop, and my brush-on-a-string is securely fastened. Now I can whirl it around for about 15 seconds or so, and the centrifugal force removes almost all the water, and it is dry and ready for re-use. If you do it frequently, wear a glove, since the string can do a bit of burning on your fingers. Even if you don't need to to re-use the brush immediately, drying it quickly is still a good practice.
Gracias x sus enseñanzas maestro
Hand placement induced by the dowel jig could be life changing, especially on a sliding miter saw. Make the jig wider so you can hold it from the side and not directly in the path of the blade.
I noticed that immediately although I tend to spot potential saw related disasters quickly since I currently own 1 badly mutilated middle finger, and one nub where my forefinger once lived, due to a poorly mounted C clamp and an unforgiving Dado head
You could just as easy use a pull saw to cut dowels in that jig. So cool!!
Thank you Colin for sharing with us these great tips and triks
Wow, the new set of tips are great, very useful. Thank you for sharing this video.
For measuring your dyes use a syringe any sort will due they have measurements on them no more guessing
yep i was thinking that too - you could come up with a recipe book on how to get different stain colours so that way you know exactly what you are getting
I also use a syringe for mixing stains. Works better than anything else I`ve tried so far!
Those are some great viewer tips Colin. I've used the ratchet strap but never used the wood blocks which makes the strap work perfectly. I made a clock once that needed small half inch pieces of molding but dangerous to cut them on a miter saw & sometimes they get kicked out & flying off the saw. That dowel cutter holder would even work for this.
Nice tips and tricks! I make fine art, so the frame trick is truly useful. You've got a new subscriber.
I love the ideas and tips for making everything easier and more fun to do! Thanks for sharing them!
I like the straw trick, wonder if also for dyed epoxy in tiny crevices ?
Colin I find you very genuine...great vids, dermot
Can't get enough tips and tricks!
More good tips, Colin. Stay safe.🇬🇧
Great tips there, people, cheers for sharing! 😳👍🏽
Thanks for that Colin👍🏽
i really like your tips they are very helpful thank you
Really like your videos and all the helpful ideas you present. Thanks for sharing your information, I know it will help me in my wood working projects.
Thank You .
Izzy Swan had a nice dust collector set up for his drill press in his last video that was incorporated with his fence like yours.
Yep, and it was a much better idea as well! 👍👍
Izzy swann
great tips....keep it up
I am really interested to try the wood dye - I'll have to find some thick straws.
my wife has asthma and her medicine comes in a small clear flexible plastic tube "ampule" that you break the end off but makes a very good "pipette " better than a eyedropper , she uses them in her craft painting projects where she needs just a few drops. saves lots of paints and dies
Thank you
Really fantastic tips, Colin! 😃
Thanks a lot!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
great tips Colin and all that submitted them!
Thanks
The dowel jig could be even more productive by adding in another slot or two. You could have decreasing size slots (biggest furthest away from hinge) and cut multiple diameter dowels at the same time
Thanks!! Another idea re the vacuum nozzle would be your block set up with magnets to cling to the steel base.
Great stuff thanks
Thank you, so much for the tips and tricks...Love ya Colin
nice tips ....
7:00 Chamfer the stop block.
Awesome Ideas!!!! Thank You Every One!!!! 👏👍😎😃👊
Thumbnail says #13, video says #14, title says #15. Mr. Knecht, I believe you're messing with us.
Some very good tips!
That straw trick is actual genius.
Some great lateral thinkers out there Colin👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😁❤
I'll be sure to use that straw trick, thank you Collin.
Great Tips! Thank you 😊
Thanks for sharing that
I’ve used this first trick myself , I found that when you push the blocks toward the corners it gets real tight.
GOOD VIDEO
Do you have a video on safe and unsafe ways to use a stop block on a table saw?
wood dye: better control through squeeze bottle with long nozzle: drop by drop for accuracy.
Wonderful 👏
For liquid you can use a syringe, baster or eye dropper.
Thanks, great tips!!
Good job bro
I use a big syringe for dye. Measurements on the side. What dye do you use? Brand?
Ah ha! Finally figured out you're Canadian when I spotted the robertson screws!
He may not be in Canada still. Those are washer head pocket screws which are almost always Robertson, no matter the country. Where in the world is Colin Knecht?
The dust extraction could be carried over to the dovetail jig.
3:00 that would work with a handsaw too. And a jigsaw.
Cool tricks, I like the dowel cutter
11:20 There is another option for you to transfer liquids instead of using the "evil outlaw" plastic straw. Get a glass eyedropper with a rubber or silicon top. It's a lot easier to count drops than it is to measure what's inside of a straw.
Definitely do helpful ideas!
where do I buy the dye in Canada?
They sell frame ratchet straps at harbor freight for ~$8.
If you look carefully at your 90-degree stop block (not the saddle one), when you clamp it to the sled fence the clamp pulls the corner of the block up slightly (you can see by the gap at the bottom) so your block is no longer at 90-degrees. This could also happen with your saddle block if you are not careful.
That is why I prefer never to have a flat, 90-degree surface as a stop block. It is actually better to have the block with a less than 90-degree angle so that you will always register your work piece against the bottom of the block, even if it is tilted a few degrees from vertical. Alternatively, I usually use stop blocks with a round-head screw driven into them which both provides a near point-like reference distance as well as allows fine adjustment by turning the screw.
Dang that's a really good idea. I've seen the issue before but never thought to make it with rounded and even adjustable point of contact. Thanks for taking the time to write it out clearly.
Your hand is in a very dangerous position when you are using the dowel cut off jig, you need to make it so your fingers are not in the path of the saw blade kick back happens
The miter saw blade is rotating down, resulting in the jig being pushed down into the table and back into the fence, so I would think the likelihood of any kind of kickback occurring would be minimal.
I cut my small dowels with pruning shears
How you make shims for wood doors?
Thanks
Hi Collin,I can't find a good speed square,spare me your old one???
Anyone ever tell you that you look like Proximus fom the movie Gladiator?
8/22/2021 USA Grandpa Bill: Colin, not many of us have the kind of money to buy expensive mag switches. You took a wonderful cheap poor wood worker's idea and made it more expensive. I wish you rich guys would remember that we come up with these ideas because poverty makes for great inventions.
How old is that newspaper in the last bit ? Mussolini hasn’t made the news in quite a while ? 🤨
Ratchet STRAPS mare.🙂
14 or 15?
I looked at his list and it looks like the real number for this one should be 13. Maybe Colin is superstitious.
He's already done a 13.
1st