Nico: wins (at least 2 big) Gunpla competitions also Nico: “I’m no expert at panel lining” So young and humble. You were raised right. Parent(s) must be proud ❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you! I've been into gunpla for about 2 years now. And I am only just now brave enough to attempt to scribe for panel lining. I tried to panel line without scribing, and of course, it came out uneven and not full. So now I scribe. But I've fount that my scribed lines are rarely even. Sometimes they are too thick, other times they are too thin. Unfortunately, I only have one scribing tool (it was all that was available). Its a very pencil like tool. I've found that a lot of light brushes until a groove starts building is best for keeping accurate lines and not making mistakes. But still, I have not found out to get the depth and thickness consistent until this video. So thank you.
Very good tips and observations, one that I think you overlooked a little bit, perhaps tied to having confidence, is that in some scenes, I can see you going over your scribed lines quite fast and that requires A LOT of experience and skill. I think this is where a lot of us fail and become frustrated, because we think that just having an expensive scriber will give us those skills. I have learned that in order for me to get the best lines, I have to start out VERY slow, and not put too much pressure at all when beginning my lines/shapes. You should only apply heavier pressure when you see your scribed lines clearly defined, and your speed should be very slow even then. I’ve been scribing for about 5 years or so and my speed is maybe less than half of what you demonstrated on your video.
Hey @luifranco1457, thanks for the feedback! Scribing speed is definitely a personal preference. Some people prefer a slower, more methodical approach, while others like to work quickly and efficiently. I think the best way to find what works for you is to experiment with different speeds and see what gives you the best results. If you have a light hand, like I do, you might be able to get away with a faster pace. However, if you tend to apply heavier pressure, slowing down a bit can help you maintain control and avoid mistakes. Ultimately, the goal is to produce clean, consistent lines. Whether you scribe slowly or quickly, as long as you're happy with the results, that's what matters most.
When I started building gunpla 5-6 years ago I started with cheap household items for my tools, like nail buffers instead of sandpaper, cheap side cutter and knife instead of hobby branded ones, etc. Ones you can buy at Daiso or Watsons in PH lol. I used to have a preconceived notion that branded stuff are overrated. Granted, those cheap things still work, but I have since started replacing them little by little and investing in hobby grade tools. And I gotta say, it really does make a difference if you use tools made specifically for plamo. (That is not to say that buying them would automatically make your kits look great -- of course, skill is still something you need to have and improve. Nor would I say you shouldn't use cheap brands -- these things cost money after all and we sometimes have to make do. Just saying that they definitely help a lot, and when you can, invest in them.) I'm currently saving up for a nice chisel set from either Dspiae or Madworks, I've only heard good things about them.
Cheaper alternatives like those you mentioned are totally fine and can get the job done. But from my experience, when it comes to chisels and scribers, it’s really either go big or go home, you either save up and invest in the right dedicated scribing tools or just don’t buy anything at all. And yes some branded tools are overrated 😬 but not all of it hahaha. Whenever I think about Gunpla or modelling tools, I think of them as investments because I’m sure I’ll be doing this for a long time, so right from the start I avoided cheaper tools and I believe I improved better and faster because I started using the right tools from the start. But I get that not everyone can buy the right tools immediately, so what I always suggest is to save up and just invest slowly, get one tool at a time, kind of like what you’re doing now. But yes I definitely agree, if you don’t put in the work and practice your skill, no matter how expensive your tool is, your build will still be mediocre. Dspiae and Madworks Scribers are great for their price range but if you can spend a couple more, I definitely suggest grabbing yourself some BMC or SAB panel liners. 😊
THANK YOU! Finally someone explains this more at-length and not just as a one-off view gaining video. I’ve had the Trumpter scriber for a while, and i though it was cuz it May be broken or I’m just dumb, but I think it’s just not using tape and turning the scriber instead of the part. It kinda sucks that the scribers available are so expensive, but thankfully there are reputable brands to buy from in the middle ground. I’m probably going to go for the MADWorks sets, as the Samawangu ones are way too expensive, and I prefer having a round handle instead of a flat handle.
Almost every tool works well when you hold it like a pencil, at least for me! My art knife, paint brush and chisels, I hold them all like how I would hold a pencil
I think that the dspaie set is well worth it! Very easy to use, very clean lines! You can sometimes find a starter set of 3or 4 chisels and the handle for like 50 bucks. It’s a good deal for a tool that can last for 10 years to a lifetime!
Hello Nico, may I ask what are your recommended sizes for 1/144 and 1/100 Gunpla kits? I already have a 0.15 chisel from Madworks and am looking to expand my sizes but not sure how. Thanks in advance!
Regardless of scale, I usually use 0.125, 0.15. 0.2, 0.5 and 0.7. It depends largely on the look you’re going for. 0.125 and 0.15 on a 144 scale is good for replicating the original panel lines of the kit. Using 0.2 on a 144 will give the illusion that it’s two parts with parts separation and not just a panel line. 0.5 and 0.7 for the notches. In a 1/100 scale, 0.2 is the regular panel lines, 0.125 and 0.15 is for extra details, adds variety to the panel lines. 0.5 and 0.7 is again for notches. 04 can be used in 1/100 to create the look of parts separation I have other videos about scribing, where I mention stuff like this btw! 😊
The hardest part about the scribing process for me is figuring out the exact mesurements for the panel lines, where it should be and prefecting its symmetry. I see so many creators just instinctively know where the lines should be how long it needs and knows the exact size of pla plate to be considered a addition. There are just so many rooms for error, any tips for this?
It looks like modellers do exact measurements but in reality, it all just comes down to eyeballing and seeing if the design looks good and pleasing to the eyes. If you customize or do scribing enough times, it just becomes second nature to you, just how long the lines should be and what more you need or want to add. I get where you’re coming from but personally I would say you’re kinda overthinking it right now. Just try it first and if you mess up, so what? You can just try again until you’re more confident. Here are some more of my videos about scribing, hopefully you’ll find these videos and what I said helpful! 😁 th-cam.com/play/PLRlFRuAj434BxqyNR1ho235wmJn-WL_lW.html
@@NicoSuratos I can't find where to purchase SAAb, as I'm in Chile, so I think ill go with DSpiae, I had bought those "super cheep Chinese ones" but can't really try them
Brushing the inside of the scribed lines with a little bit of Tamiya extra thin cement will help clean up some of the leftover jagged bits and other debris from your chisel's path of destruction.
Yep! Also works great! Personally I don’t do it cause I like to go over a scribed part over again and I can’t wait for the thin cement to dry ‘cause it’s gonna take me longer to finish 😂 but it is a great tip for people more patient than me haha
Hi! I have a question. What is the material that are you using at the second 4:41 ? I think i need something like that to practice my scribing skills before try it on a model kit. Greetings from México!
Dspiae is carried by a lot of hobby shops, Newtype in the US is one that comes to mind. But here’s Dspiae’s ofc store dspiae.aliexpress.com/store/1101297016?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmICoBhDxARIsABXkXlJz_2n8-AcAVkoVnfmdvzi9b0GNSx5U19kVAyIs2jZzQ4mNF-7881kaAq6CEALw_wcB
I’m very late, but what is the purpose of the needle point scriber? It seems like a more chisel shaped scriber would be more effective at creating a line in every way
I made the video with beginners or first time scribers in mind so I recommend using a needle point scribers for the first initial passes because Beginners often struggle with keeping their lines straight and even, and the shape of the neddle point helps them achieve cleaner results. (It’s just like using a pen, unlike with push chisels wherein you have to have a proper hold on it and the right angle to get the best results) And also, Since the needle point scriber makes a shallower initial mark, it's easier to erase or adjust if you make a mistake. This is crucial for beginners who are still getting the hang of scribing. So yeah, using a needle point scriber is a great starting tool for beginners, (pretty useful for other things to like scribing round/curved lines) but if you watch my latest videos, I don’t really use a needle point anymore as I have gotten to a point where I’m so comfortable with scribing, I can even do it on my non-dominant hand (won’t be pretty tho 😂) so at the end of the day, you can skip it if you don’t want to use it or feel it’s redundant, but again, for beginners, It’s pretty helpful to start with a needle point :) hope this answers it!
you can using tamiyas extra thin cement put it in one line over the line an it will smoot out the fine stuff.and you has very nice understand tat not ewerityng is rigth and well wo they show on youtube its alweys healty to questioning the stuff. ps you can feel it if it scribs rigth or not :) it feels good if you scrib nice.
The dspiae scriber is a good starting tool for beginners, it’s affordable enough and works fine, there are of course better scribers and chisels in the market but the dspiae scribers are not bad to begin with. So the difference between a straight broach and a hook is that a straight broach is the usual design of chisels and scribers. When you think of a chisel this is the design that comes in mind. A straight broach is also called a push broach, so you can use this by either pushing or pulling. It can also be used to take of chunks off plastic, make notches and indents, so in short this offers more variety. However a hook broach is much more friendly for beginners. It can only be used in one direction which is by pulling. It’s much easier to work with because of the bird beak shape,it hooks onto the plastic and for beginners there’s no learning curve to overcome since you know how to use it already, which angle to hold it and such. The only negative (compared to push broach chisels) is that it can only do lines. It’s purely for scribing panel lines or deepening existing panel lines and that’s it. But again for those just starting out with scribing, I recommend getting a hook broach chisel to help you get the feel and correct movement when scribing. 😁
@@NicoSuratos Thank you! This is really informative. I recenlty wanted to try scribing but got overwhelmed with how much there is, and your video was really helpful. Also the clarification between the two types of broach
you mention theres a proper technique with the art knife, any chance of you going over the best way to use it? every time I try cleaning up with a hobby knife i end up doing far more damage.
I think that a lot of people tend to do it differently, they find what works for them in terms of how to hold the art knife, like what works for me might not work for you, but yes I’ll try to make a video about it when I find the time 😁
hi nico, sorry for commeting after a year, i hope you still notice my questions: 1. which scribing / chisel tool do you reccomend? any particular brand or series? 2. do they get dull over time, and if so, how do you sharpen them?
The number 1 chisel I would recommend are SAB Panel Liners by Samawangu. This is if you have the money to spend because they can be pricey. But I think they’re the best. Dspiae chisels are good for beginners too. Not to pricey and works good enough. You get what you pay for. The ones I use, SAB Panel Liners don’t get dull or rusty at all. It’s exactly the same as my first time using it. So I don’t have any problems with that. With the Dspiae chisels, after a year or so, I find that it’s not as sharp anymore but it still works! and you won’t really notice the difference UNLESS you use a brand new dspiae chisel and then compare it to your old one. As for sharpening them, I don’t really recommend it. More often than not you’ll just end up chipping/breaking the tip or just ruining the chisel altogether. And also if you try to sharpen it, the size and angle will possibly change, so it’s not really a good idea.
It’s a great help for beginners as it’s easier to learn it since it’s just like a pen but it’s not a necessary tool to start scribing. You can start with an actual chisel right away
Nico: wins (at least 2 big) Gunpla competitions
also Nico: “I’m no expert at panel lining”
So young and humble. You were raised right. Parent(s) must be proud ❤❤❤❤❤
Well I haven’t won my 2nd gold when I made this video that’s why 😅😂 but thank you though! ❤️
Thank you! I've been into gunpla for about 2 years now. And I am only just now brave enough to attempt to scribe for panel lining. I tried to panel line without scribing, and of course, it came out uneven and not full. So now I scribe. But I've fount that my scribed lines are rarely even. Sometimes they are too thick, other times they are too thin. Unfortunately, I only have one scribing tool (it was all that was available). Its a very pencil like tool. I've found that a lot of light brushes until a groove starts building is best for keeping accurate lines and not making mistakes. But still, I have not found out to get the depth and thickness consistent until this video. So thank you.
Glad this could help :)
Nico Suratos out there pointing out my confidence issues ;-;
😂 it’s just scribing! Be confident! 😂
You Ma’am deserve a sub! Learned a lot from and still learning. Salute!
Thank you! Glad you like the videos!
Very good tips and observations, one that I think you overlooked a little bit, perhaps tied to having confidence, is that in some scenes, I can see you going over your scribed lines quite fast and that requires A LOT of experience and skill. I think this is where a lot of us fail and become frustrated, because we think that just having an expensive scriber will give us those skills. I have learned that in order for me to get the best lines, I have to start out VERY slow, and not put too much pressure at all when beginning my lines/shapes. You should only apply heavier pressure when you see your scribed lines clearly defined, and your speed should be very slow even then. I’ve been scribing for about 5 years or so and my speed is maybe less than half of what you demonstrated on your video.
Hey @luifranco1457, thanks for the feedback! Scribing speed is definitely a personal preference. Some people prefer a slower, more methodical approach, while others like to work quickly and efficiently.
I think the best way to find what works for you is to experiment with different speeds and see what gives you the best results. If you have a light hand, like I do, you might be able to get away with a faster pace. However, if you tend to apply heavier pressure, slowing down a bit can help you maintain control and avoid mistakes.
Ultimately, the goal is to produce clean, consistent lines. Whether you scribe slowly or quickly, as long as you're happy with the results, that's what matters most.
@ Wise words! Keep up the great work! 👍
Great tutorial! Your tip to use a mechanical pencil to practice applying proper pressure is genius.
Thanks! Glad you found it useful!
When I started building gunpla 5-6 years ago I started with cheap household items for my tools, like nail buffers instead of sandpaper, cheap side cutter and knife instead of hobby branded ones, etc. Ones you can buy at Daiso or Watsons in PH lol. I used to have a preconceived notion that branded stuff are overrated. Granted, those cheap things still work, but I have since started replacing them little by little and investing in hobby grade tools. And I gotta say, it really does make a difference if you use tools made specifically for plamo. (That is not to say that buying them would automatically make your kits look great -- of course, skill is still something you need to have and improve. Nor would I say you shouldn't use cheap brands -- these things cost money after all and we sometimes have to make do. Just saying that they definitely help a lot, and when you can, invest in them.)
I'm currently saving up for a nice chisel set from either Dspiae or Madworks, I've only heard good things about them.
Cheaper alternatives like those you mentioned are totally fine and can get the job done. But from my experience, when it comes to chisels and scribers, it’s really either go big or go home, you either save up and invest in the right dedicated scribing tools or just don’t buy anything at all. And yes some branded tools are overrated 😬 but not all of it hahaha.
Whenever I think about Gunpla or modelling tools, I think of them as investments because I’m sure I’ll be doing this for a long time, so right from the start I avoided cheaper tools and I believe I improved better and faster because I started using the right tools from the start. But I get that not everyone can buy the right tools immediately, so what I always suggest is to save up and just invest slowly, get one tool at a time, kind of like what you’re doing now.
But yes I definitely agree, if you don’t put in the work and practice your skill, no matter how expensive your tool is, your build will still be mediocre. Dspiae and Madworks Scribers are great for their price range but if you can spend a couple more, I definitely suggest grabbing yourself some BMC or SAB panel liners. 😊
THANK YOU! Finally someone explains this more at-length and not just as a one-off view gaining video. I’ve had the Trumpter scriber for a while, and i though it was cuz it May be broken or I’m just dumb, but I think it’s just not using tape and turning the scriber instead of the part. It kinda sucks that the scribers available are so expensive, but thankfully there are reputable brands to buy from in the middle ground. I’m probably going to go for the MADWorks sets, as the Samawangu ones are way too expensive, and I prefer having a round handle instead of a flat handle.
Thank you for watching! I'm glad you found it useful!
holding like a pencil is one of the single biggest tip. First mention and first time seeing someone holding it like that
Almost every tool works well when you hold it like a pencil, at least for me! My art knife, paint brush and chisels, I hold them all like how I would hold a pencil
This video was aimed at me😂
Glade i subscribed. ❤
Haha thank you!
You can also try practicing on other plastic surfaces, like ice cream containers or plastic utensil.
❤very imformative
Great video, thank you for the video
Glad you liked it!
Great video
Thanks
I’m trying to buy the chisel you used the metallic gone with the plastic holder but idk where
It’s the Dspiae Chisels
I think that the dspaie set is well worth it! Very easy to use, very clean lines! You can sometimes find a starter set of 3or 4 chisels and the handle for like 50 bucks. It’s a good deal for a tool that can last for 10 years to a lifetime!
Excellent video
Thanks Chris!
Hello Nico, may I ask what are your recommended sizes for 1/144 and 1/100 Gunpla kits? I already have a 0.15 chisel from Madworks and am looking to expand my sizes but not sure how. Thanks in advance!
Regardless of scale, I usually use 0.125, 0.15. 0.2, 0.5 and 0.7. It depends largely on the look you’re going for.
0.125 and 0.15 on a 144 scale is good for replicating the original panel lines of the kit. Using 0.2 on a 144 will give the illusion that it’s two parts with parts separation and not just a panel line. 0.5 and 0.7 for the notches.
In a 1/100 scale, 0.2 is the regular panel lines, 0.125 and 0.15 is for extra details, adds variety to the panel lines. 0.5 and 0.7 is again for notches. 04 can be used in 1/100 to create the look of parts separation
I have other videos about scribing, where I mention stuff like this btw! 😊
@@NicoSuratos Thank you so much I appreciate the fast response
The hardest part about the scribing process for me is figuring out the exact mesurements for the panel lines, where it should be and prefecting its symmetry. I see so many creators just instinctively know where the lines should be how long it needs and knows the exact size of pla plate to be considered a addition. There are just so many rooms for error, any tips for this?
It looks like modellers do exact measurements but in reality, it all just comes down to eyeballing and seeing if the design looks good and pleasing to the eyes. If you customize or do scribing enough times, it just becomes second nature to you, just how long the lines should be and what more you need or want to add. I get where you’re coming from but personally I would say you’re kinda overthinking it right now. Just try it first and if you mess up, so what? You can just try again until you’re more confident.
Here are some more of my videos about scribing, hopefully you’ll find these videos and what I said helpful! 😁 th-cam.com/play/PLRlFRuAj434BxqyNR1ho235wmJn-WL_lW.html
RAVI PLA uses a compass and math to figure out perfect symmetry.
great video! sub-scribed ;)
Thank you!
Thank you! I’ll try it, which brand you recommend to start with?
The absolute best for me are SAB panel liners but a more friendly-option ($$$ wise) I'd say Dspiae or Madworks.
@@NicoSuratos I can't find where to purchase SAAb, as I'm in Chile, so I think ill go with DSpiae, I had bought those "super cheep Chinese ones" but can't really try them
Brushing the inside of the scribed lines with a little bit of Tamiya extra thin cement will help clean up some of the leftover jagged bits and other debris from your chisel's path of destruction.
Yep! Also works great! Personally I don’t do it cause I like to go over a scribed part over again and I can’t wait for the thin cement to dry ‘cause it’s gonna take me longer to finish 😂 but it is a great tip for people more patient than me haha
YOU ARE SO HELPFUL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for watchingg!
I'm super new to this hobby and was wondering what is that tape used in this video for scribing?
Dspiae Scribing Guide Tape
Hi! I have a question.
What is the material that are you using at the second 4:41 ?
I think i need something like that to practice my scribing skills before try it on a model kit.
Greetings from México!
Pla plates or styrene sheets.
Common brands are Tamiya and Evergreen but dspiae, hobbymio and a couple of other brands has them as well.
@@NicoSuratos thank you! :)
what size/s of scribing tools would you recommend for a 1/144 kits?
0.15 and 0.2
Would you mind sharing links about the chisels, please? I can't seem to find Dspiae.
Dspiae is carried by a lot of hobby shops, Newtype in the US is one that comes to mind. But here’s Dspiae’s ofc store dspiae.aliexpress.com/store/1101297016?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmICoBhDxARIsABXkXlJz_2n8-AcAVkoVnfmdvzi9b0GNSx5U19kVAyIs2jZzQ4mNF-7881kaAq6CEALw_wcB
I’m very late, but what is the purpose of the needle point scriber? It seems like a more chisel shaped scriber would be more effective at creating a line in every way
I made the video with beginners or first time scribers in mind so I recommend using a needle point scribers for the first initial passes because Beginners often struggle with keeping their lines straight and even, and the shape of the neddle point helps them achieve cleaner results. (It’s just like using a pen, unlike with push chisels wherein you have to have a proper hold on it and the right angle to get the best results)
And also, Since the needle point scriber makes a shallower initial mark, it's easier to erase or adjust if you make a mistake. This is crucial for beginners who are still getting the hang of scribing.
So yeah, using a needle point scriber is a great starting tool for beginners, (pretty useful for other things to like scribing round/curved lines) but if you watch my latest videos, I don’t really use a needle point anymore as I have gotten to a point where I’m so comfortable with scribing, I can even do it on my non-dominant hand (won’t be pretty tho 😂) so at the end of the day, you can skip it if you don’t want to use it or feel it’s redundant, but again, for beginners, It’s pretty helpful to start with a needle point :) hope this answers it!
@@NicoSuratos ah that does make alot of sense. I should try that then
you can using tamiyas extra thin cement put it in one line over the line an it will smoot out the fine stuff.and you has very nice understand tat not ewerityng is rigth and well wo they show on youtube its alweys healty to questioning the stuff. ps you can feel it if it scribs rigth or not :) it feels good if you scrib nice.
Sorry I couldn’t understand?
Would you say the dspiae scriber is good enough? Also is there a difference between using a straight brooch over a hook?
The dspiae scriber is a good starting tool for beginners, it’s affordable enough and works fine, there are of course better scribers and chisels in the market but the dspiae scribers are not bad to begin with.
So the difference between a straight broach and a hook is that a straight broach is the usual design of chisels and scribers. When you think of a chisel this is the design that comes in mind. A straight broach is also called a push broach, so you can use this by either pushing or pulling. It can also be used to take of chunks off plastic, make notches and indents, so in short this offers more variety.
However a hook broach is much more friendly for beginners. It can only be used in one direction which is by pulling. It’s much easier to work with because of the bird beak shape,it hooks onto the plastic and for beginners there’s no learning curve to overcome since you know how to use it already, which angle to hold it and such. The only negative (compared to push broach chisels) is that it can only do lines. It’s purely for scribing panel lines or deepening existing panel lines and that’s it. But again for those just starting out with scribing, I recommend getting a hook broach chisel to help you get the feel and correct movement when scribing. 😁
@@NicoSuratos Thank you! This is really informative. I recenlty wanted to try scribing but got overwhelmed with how much there is, and your video was really helpful. Also the clarification between the two types of broach
you mention theres a proper technique with the art knife, any chance of you going over the best way to use it? every time I try cleaning up with a hobby knife i end up doing far more damage.
I think that a lot of people tend to do it differently, they find what works for them in terms of how to hold the art knife, like what works for me might not work for you, but yes I’ll try to make a video about it when I find the time 😁
anung recommended mong number ng chisel for rescribe yung existing groove sa hg
0.15 for HGs, older Hgs sometimes used 0.2
hi nico, sorry for commeting after a year, i hope you still notice my questions:
1. which scribing / chisel tool do you reccomend? any particular brand or series?
2. do they get dull over time, and if so, how do you sharpen them?
The number 1 chisel I would recommend are SAB Panel Liners by Samawangu. This is if you have the money to spend because they can be pricey. But I think they’re the best.
Dspiae chisels are good for beginners too. Not to pricey and works good enough. You get what you pay for.
The ones I use, SAB Panel Liners don’t get dull or rusty at all. It’s exactly the same as my first time using it. So I don’t have any problems with that.
With the Dspiae chisels, after a year or so, I find that it’s not as sharp anymore but it still works! and you won’t really notice the difference UNLESS you use a brand new dspiae chisel and then compare it to your old one.
As for sharpening them, I don’t really recommend it. More often than not you’ll just end up chipping/breaking the tip or just ruining the chisel altogether. And also if you try to sharpen it, the size and angle will possibly change, so it’s not really a good idea.
ano yung ginagamit mo na parang pen before ka gumamit ng chisel liner?
Needle point scriber
@@NicoSuratos do you need it to start scribing? or you can just use a 0.2 chisel scriber right away?
It’s a great help for beginners as it’s easier to learn it since it’s just like a pen but it’s not a necessary tool to start scribing. You can start with an actual chisel right away
@@NicoSuratos thank you!! you have great tutorials! keep it up!
9:24 I know, I know, :(