Just a couple tips, we had really good luck with the Harvey Tool and Micro 100 single lip engraving tools, the tipped off ones let you engrave wider without having to go as deep, and give a smoother cut. Double sided carpet tape works fairly well to hold down thin sheet for machining, just dont let it get hot or wet. Super gluing thin sheet to a sacrificial block also works well, same deal, don't let it get hot. Ramping down or spiral ramping down is always preferable to plunging straight down into a pocket or cut, it keeps from loading up the center of the milling cutter where the surface speed is approaching zero. Depends on your CAM package. You can use your milled holes as registration features to put the part in a fixture for finishing the back side, and you can bolt through those same holes to hold the part down.
One thing you can try for the chamfers is to add some offset and drop the tool slightly. Like add .005 thou offset and drop the tool .005 or .010 thou. Experiment until you like the look. The purpose is the get the point or tip of the tool off of the part because it does not cut very well. Moving it down and out will use the "side" of the cutter and give you a better finish. For the engraving do a finish pass of .0005 thou and increase the RPM as much as possible. Smaller tool require higher RPM and lower cutting speeds and that engraver is VERY small at the tip.
Just a small correction about the speaker spikes. Actually speaker spikes couple the vibrations to the floor and help reduce transmitting vibrations from the floor to the speaker due to their shape. The spikes transmit the vibrations from the speaker housing to the floor and rubber feet help to reduce vibrations transmitted from the speaker housing to the floor. Really nice project and I love the look of printed carbon fiber filament :D
Came here to say this. Not actually a huge fan of spikes for speakers. Spikes dont decouple the speaker from the floor like many think. I go the mass loading way myself, with good solid and heavy basses to my stands. I use concrete filled, with large rounded hard rubber cones feet. Hard enough that it doesnt damp the response, just enough that it doesnt mark the floor.
Looks great though Vez. I live the look and B&W make some nice drivers. Having a sharp point doesn’t decouple anything, the same energy is present, its just focused to a smaller area. The cf nylon may damp some of the vibrations, but as the spike goes all the way through, it wont matter.
for the chamfer to be cleaner , offset the tool . The higher the better , just say in the cam programm that u want to offset it by R=+1mm L=-1mm for example, so u get a diameter that can smoth cut
Great work vez! That nylon is epic off your machine. In regards to your chamfering. What spindle and feed speed were you using? It looked extremely slow remember at the very tip of the cutting tool your Vc is extremely low near zero and the more you move away from the centre the faster your Vc is or spindle speed. You have a high spindle speed on there so use the max speed and feed harder then come back in and drop the tool down to use a cleaner edge just for finishing and take a lighter cut finishing pass. Does that make sense? The add on of an mql would really help look up how datron using ethanol to cool tools very simple to setup and with a mist blaster get off Amazon etc would make a great project for your viewers.
Agreed. For chamfering and deburring you don't really need any tool with a point, you always want to be further out from the centerline of the tool to keep the surface speeds up. My favorite chamfering tools were a .25" end mill with 45 degree relieved corners and a 90 degree carbide cone burr with the point ground off. The cone burr gives a lot more teeth so you can feed faster and get a similar chip per tooth, you just have to be aware that there's almost no gullet between the teeth to fill with chips so it's only good for very light deburring. And the KoolMist style of coolant mist sprayers have long been a staple of light weight machinework, I have one on my knee mill. An air blast to clear chips with just a hint of a lubricant to keep the chips from sticking to the tool is one of the more popular practices these days.
now working on custom speaker grills for my A.E.C. Monitors and the double magnet custom Bass Driver that is taller in Z than the original one and presses way too much against the stock cover
Its a blend for sure. Its fine. Prints good when dried like other nylon. But i dont feel like its as strong as the polymaker. It prints way colder than all other nylon cr i have tried
hey been following you for a long time but never knew your in Audio too Kool beans the center looks like SVS copied B and W on that center channel but I bet B and w are much cleaner
The finish always looks better in real life than on video! And that PA12-CF looks awesome! 🤩
I love that you modelled the whole speaker including the drivers! I would have just taken a photo to skin a rectange!
Then the model will be uploaded to grabcad so others can use it :)
I grabbed his VzBot files and EVERYTHING is modeled. like even the dam capacitors for the mainboard!
I bet your wife loves when you use the oven for your projects. LOL
Haha
I love your videos and your printers, going to enjoy this video!
Yay, thank you!
Just a couple tips, we had really good luck with the Harvey Tool and Micro 100 single lip engraving tools, the tipped off ones let you engrave wider without having to go as deep, and give a smoother cut. Double sided carpet tape works fairly well to hold down thin sheet for machining, just dont let it get hot or wet. Super gluing thin sheet to a sacrificial block also works well, same deal, don't let it get hot. Ramping down or spiral ramping down is always preferable to plunging straight down into a pocket or cut, it keeps from loading up the center of the milling cutter where the surface speed is approaching zero. Depends on your CAM package. You can use your milled holes as registration features to put the part in a fixture for finishing the back side, and you can bolt through those same holes to hold the part down.
Thank you much for the tips
One thing you can try for the chamfers is to add some offset and drop the tool slightly. Like add .005 thou offset and drop the tool .005 or .010 thou. Experiment until you like the look. The purpose is the get the point or tip of the tool off of the part because it does not cut very well. Moving it down and out will use the "side" of the cutter and give you a better finish. For the engraving do a finish pass of .0005 thou and increase the RPM as much as possible. Smaller tool require higher RPM and lower cutting speeds and that engraver is VERY small at the tip.
awesome! pls keep making videos :) i enjoy your videos the most on youtube.
More to come!
Extremely beautiful
Thank you! Cheers!
Beautiful job brother! ❤
Thanks bro
Great video!
Thanks!
wow you have made the ultimate leap and are actually making things with your printer and not just making the printer. lol
I make lots of things with my printers.. i just dont make videos of it all :)
What an awesome end result! Looks soooo good
Thank you!! 😊
Very nice and professional looking
Thank you! Cheers!
Just a small correction about the speaker spikes. Actually speaker spikes couple the vibrations to the floor and help reduce transmitting vibrations from the floor to the speaker due to their shape. The spikes transmit the vibrations from the speaker housing to the floor and rubber feet help to reduce vibrations transmitted from the speaker housing to the floor.
Really nice project and I love the look of printed carbon fiber filament :D
Came here to say this. Not actually a huge fan of spikes for speakers. Spikes dont decouple the speaker from the floor like many think. I go the mass loading way myself, with good solid and heavy basses to my stands. I use concrete filled, with large rounded hard rubber cones feet. Hard enough that it doesnt damp the response, just enough that it doesnt mark the floor.
Looks great though Vez. I live the look and B&W make some nice drivers.
Having a sharp point doesn’t decouple anything, the same energy is present, its just focused to a smaller area. The cf nylon may damp some of the vibrations, but as the spike goes all the way through, it wont matter.
for the chamfer to be cleaner , offset the tool . The higher the better , just say in the cam programm that u want to offset it by R=+1mm L=-1mm for example, so u get a diameter that can smoth cut
❤
i tried many dampening materials and somehow bitumen sheets gave the best results :)
I’ve got a specific oven just for doing printing shenanigans haha
no way.... i just finished a design for my canton karat reference 2dc :D
Very professional results, nice!
Looks great! Nice Job!
Beautiful, love it !
The quality of the print is likely one of the best I've seen to date.
Did you use fuzzy skin for the finish or is that all due to the filament used?
No fuzzy.. just cf nylon
Great work vez! That nylon is epic off your machine. In regards to your chamfering. What spindle and feed speed were you using? It looked extremely slow remember at the very tip of the cutting tool your Vc is extremely low near zero and the more you move away from the centre the faster your Vc is or spindle speed. You have a high spindle speed on there so use the max speed and feed harder then come back in and drop the tool down to use a cleaner edge just for finishing and take a lighter cut finishing pass. Does that make sense? The add on of an mql would really help look up how datron using ethanol to cool tools very simple to setup and with a mist blaster get off Amazon etc would make a great project for your viewers.
Agreed. For chamfering and deburring you don't really need any tool with a point, you always want to be further out from the centerline of the tool to keep the surface speeds up. My favorite chamfering tools were a .25" end mill with 45 degree relieved corners and a 90 degree carbide cone burr with the point ground off. The cone burr gives a lot more teeth so you can feed faster and get a similar chip per tooth, you just have to be aware that there's almost no gullet between the teeth to fill with chips so it's only good for very light deburring. And the KoolMist style of coolant mist sprayers have long been a staple of light weight machinework, I have one on my knee mill. An air blast to clear chips with just a hint of a lubricant to keep the chips from sticking to the tool is one of the more popular practices these days.
now working on custom speaker grills for my A.E.C. Monitors and the double magnet custom Bass Driver that is taller in Z than the original one and presses way too much against the stock cover
Nice. great job!
Nice project! loved the final result and how elegant they look... Which cnc machine are you using? I didn't find a link for it
Carvera
Does the full kit come with the all the printer parts you have listed in the description? like the vz beam and the water cooling stuff?
Not the watercooling..but the rest yes. Though the x beam in the kit is carbon fiber. But you can swap
try some more rounded shapes and then test the resonance frequence ;) asymetrical and more randomly warped, for extreme example
So I actually found that you don't really need to post bake the nylon part if you print it super hot in an enclosure that's at least 65
i'm planning to get the goliath to print a pair of speakers cabinets with 1mm nozzle. 😂
But The Real Question ? :) When are we going to see a VzCnC hehehe
Ouff... not sure hehe
This. 1000%. 🤣
Better get to work Vez! 🤣
What are your thoughts on the esun ePA? I've tried the polymaker PA6 and it's worked well for my needs, but I'm curious what eSun has to offer.
Its a blend for sure. Its fine. Prints good when dried like other nylon. But i dont feel like its as strong as the polymaker. It prints way colder than all other nylon cr i have tried
hey been following you for a long time but never knew your in Audio too Kool beans the center looks like SVS copied B and W on that center channel but I bet B and w are much cleaner
Youre probably using too close to the tip for the chamfer tool.
Missed the typo? "upraded" 😉
How did I not see that hahaha. Thanks. Corrected