ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Part 4: Doing all electronics on a Vz235
Another ultra long video on my personal build, again hoping to help people who are in the process of building it, or looking at building it.
00:00 Intro
01:59 Layout
09:30 Design & Print
10:11 Motherboard mount
14:59 Stepper motor drivers
17:57 Install fuses
18:46 SPI & UART mode
19:38 Fan port setup
21:29 Pi USB power
22:28 Sensorless homing
26:53 Power supplies
29:40 DIN rail
30:05 CPAP fan prep
36:47 Mount CPAP fan
37:09 Cable guides
40:11 Mount backplate
41:05 Design intermission
45:01 CPAP tube routing
46:19 Wiring: overview
48:55 Wiring: tools
51:54 Wiring: Mains / AC
54:23 Wiring: Bed
56:14 Wiring: 24v & 48v DC
59:21 Wiring: Motors
01:01:46 Wiring: Sensors, fans, endstops, ...
01:02:46 Endstop switches X, Y, Z
01:03:35 Print head
01:04:36 Pi peripherals
01:05:48 Bottom skirts
01:08:00 Back panel installed
01:09:05 Wiring: Camera
01:12:16 Wiring: CPAP PWM wire
01:13:04 Wiring: LED, Chamber sensor
01:14:09 Wiring: Pi Screen
01:15:45 Wiring: !! 24v correction
01:16:30 First turn-on: fixing issues
01:18:12 Second time's the charm??
01:20:04 Enclosure panels, RSCS
01:21:12 A/B Motors AWD recap
01:22:13 Firmware? dreams
01:22:37 Vez happy man :)
01:23:00 Closing remarks
-Super8 Board : s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AatwlZ
-CPAP fan and controller: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AEsHxz or s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AAfgBn
-5" PiTFT screen: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9vPISY
-Fly 2209 driver: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A2ltdx
-SSR relay: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AqlB7b
-Bed temperature fuse: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AXxYCE
(for all the bom look below for the URL)
CAD: github.com/VzBoT3D/VzBoT-Vz23...
A full how to video serie here : th-cam.com/users/Unboxingexp...
If you wish to support: ko-fi.com/vez3d
CNC parts: f3d-racing-fdm.myshopify.com/...
Full VzBoT Printer project: (BOM, cad, stl): github.com/VzBot3D/
Please join us on FB: / 40988. .
Disord: / discord
SliceEngineering discount link : www.sliceengineering.com?p=ry...
Or use this code: SIMOV5 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![ถ้าพี่วุ้นท้อง แป้งจะท้องไปด้วยกัน !!!! [ดูคลิปเต็มหน้าช่อง] #Short | PANG ORNHIRA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FeyEnVMwitA/mqdefault.jpg)
00:00 Intro
01:59 Layout
09:30 Design & Print
10:11 Motherboard mount
14:59 Stepper motor drivers
17:57 Install fuses
18:46 SPI & UART mode
19:38 Fan port setup
21:29 Pi USB power
22:28 Sensorless homing
26:53 Power supplies
29:40 DIN rail
30:05 CPAP fan prep
36:47 Mount CPAP fan
37:09 Cable guides
40:11 Mount backplate
41:05 Design intermission
45:01 CPAP tube routing
46:19 Wiring: overview
48:55 Wiring: tools
51:54 Wiring: Mains / AC
54:23 Wiring: Bed
56:14 Wiring: 24v & 48v DC
59:21 Wiring: Motors
01:01:46 Wiring: Sensors, fans, endstops, ...
01:02:46 Endstop switches X, Y, Z
01:03:35 Print head
01:04:36 Pi peripherals
01:05:48 Bottom skirts
01:08:00 Back panel installed
01:09:05 Wiring: Camera
01:12:16 Wiring: CPAP PWM wire
01:13:04 Wiring: LED, Chamber sensor
01:14:09 Wiring: Pi Screen
01:15:45 Wiring: !! 24v correction
01:16:30 First turn-on: fixing issues
01:18:12 Second time's the charm??
01:20:04 Enclosure panels, RSCS
01:21:12 A/B Motors AWD recap
01:22:13 Firmware? dreams
01:22:37 Vez happy man :)
01:23:00 Closing remarks
the only unsafe thing about this build is that my money is trying to jump out of my pocket to build one now.
I think the unsafe factor here is the print head moving so fast that it will escape the Earth's gravity, travel through space and hit the James Webb Telescope, destroying billions of $ 😁
Amazing guide as always Simon, I really like how you show the troubles that you have along the way, like the CPAP hose, and your approach to problem solving!
Your design is absolutely beautiful.
1:16:30
that's a huge nice feature of that board. my god you probably just sold another board for them. i also really like the bonus replaceable mofsets for the fans. I'm blown away by those features. that's a company that knows their audience.
Yep. Would have bought this had i seen this video last week. There's always next time right?
On the point of it being a "small printer", it has roughly the same footprint as a Prusa MK3S, when accounting for movement of the bed and X axis motor mount, with an around 20% large build volume! Anyone that room for a Prusa has room for this speedy little fella.
WOW! I''ve lost all my words, a wonderful work! thanks for amazing explanation
To save some const on a USB cam: I salvaged my printer camera form a dead laptop. These are tiny and have decent enough quality.
Most laptop webcams are internal USB and you just need to probe out ground. Data is usually the twisted pain. D+ D- may be a guess but nothing should blow up if you get it wrong, and soldering on a USB cable is the hardest part to them tiny wires.
Most cameras show up as a usb device on the rPi.
Love those long videos. Everything is step after step ;) Great Job Vez3D
amazing build, looks beautiful...thanks for the walk through build
Looks like a power plant cooling tower love it
back panel looks like AWESOM-O!
Wow man, you're my kind of nerd; love your build!
I think this board is new and I think u r the first one who reviewed this board as can't find any videos but u and a Chinese person review it on TH-cam....(there is lots of videos for btt manata m8p and the information is out there for the manta )...i would love to use same as u did bro but if i can't find reviews videos i will have to use the btt for this time ,please we need more videos wiring bltouch ,end stop , felement runout sensor , and the configurations , I started to build 2 wheel drive on 48v though 😉 not sure if it will work with me as I'm new in 3d printing u made me love it , if it work will make a review video 😉
This is a work of art!
Would love to see 4 motors on the 330 version of this printer. Love seeing how far this project has come.
Yeah something like this could be my next project.
@@radicalreel Im making a mini mill sooooo..could be fun for me to make my own
@@samuelgonzalez7783 basically you could just scale the 235... do it!
the 330 has a AWD incoming. But one will lose a bit of Y area.. like 10-15mm
@@radicalreel This is actually my next project!
Your build looks clean man! Across the gambit, this VZbot build is just flat-out sick. You've definitely inspired me to start a similar project. I think I'm going to try out that BTT Octopus Pro with a mix of TMC2209's, TMC5160's, and a Rasberry Pi 4.
Your drawers look just like mine too! bahahahahaa Solderless connectors, wraps, heat shrink, assorted sizes of who knows what... I even have totes full of those random bag'O wires, sorted for all kinds of different projects.
It's too bad, though, that these companies don't just mount these MOSFETs and any other "hot" chips flush to the backs of these boards instead of the tops. Of course, they'd have to remove or cover up any exposed pins on the back to prevent shorts. But it could be soo much easier on everyone. Because then you could just use a few dabs of thermal paste and mount everything, all at once, onto 1 large aluminum cooling plate, or copper... or the chassis, or whatever... The board could also be grounded to that plate.
Then leave all of those tall caps, JST connectors, etc., on the top. We could all just water cool 1 large slab of aluminum if desired.
Moving those would probably create enough room on the boards to give all of the connectors extra "finger friendly" spacing, maybe more connections, or make enough space for a pad for a Rasberry Pi to mount within the main control board...
They should also ditch that standoff-style motor controller mount, like where you plugged in your 2209's, and just use dip switches for anything optional, no more jumpers. Jumpers will always remind me of 1990's computers! LOL How are they still around?
I'd keep the acrylic on the back. It's like a Ferrari, have to show off the craftsmanship 😁
je ne m'attendais pas à entendre un "et voilà" 😂 en tout cas très bon boulot bravo !!!
Great work !
Nice!! a simple plug and play printer that even grandmas could set up 😅
almost haha
I wouldn't use the bed MOSFET to trigger the SSR. I use a normal output pin for that task. Then the bed MOSFET is free. I use it for LEDs.
yeah thats a good idea :)
Beautiful design! How did you secure the plastic cable raceways? Did you screw them, or glued them down to the aluminum back panel?
Good job 👏 god bless 🙏
great, thanks for sharing :) 👍
pretty good vez. what you are doing is in keeping with typical practices. however for adding extra safety around the bed circuit i would suggest a couple more things. first thing is to be sure to test the thermal fuse by ordering multiple thermal fuses from the same supplier (5-10) and then testing to failure others coming from the same batch. then to be doubly sure you can in fact source from an entirely seperate supplier / brand a completely different brand of thermal fuse (and again order multiple for doing a same batch testing). then you can install 2 different kinds of thermal fuse in series on the bed. so that if for any extenuating circumstance the first thermal fuse does not blow properly. then there is a 2nd one for backup. makes sense?
well here is another extra protection you can do. because the ssr is solid state silicon they can fail closed position. which is then not desirable. so to expect or assume this circumstance will happen, you can put a regular coil based mechanical relay in series with the ssr. which should be active closed the coil, so it much be energized the entire time. and trigger the ssr from klipper / fluid. normally the relay should stay energised when the whole printer is powered up. however if klipper / fluid / mainsail detects a runaway fault condition with the bed. wereby the ssr has been turned off and the bed temperature is still increasing. i thing it has a way to detect this? ok then it can de-energize the coil based relay which you put in series configuration with the ssr / bed heater loop. and then if the ssr failed in the on position the power is still cut.
adding a relay has several benefits. firstly, it is an extra independant type of a protection mechanism. and 2nd it saves you from having to replace blown thermal fuse. and 3rd benefit is that you then can buy cheaper less reliable ssr. since the expensive brand ssr is around $25 or $50 usd on digikey. while a cheaper ssr might be only 5-15 dollars. bearing in mind that even the most reliable expensive ssr is still a solid state silicon component which can fail closed. just like any other mosfets or power transistors. so i am not sure why this extra coil mechanical relay next to the ssr is not done more often in the 3dp community. they are a cheap and affordable protection, usually less than $5. which seems cheap enough to add
very very good idea on the added relay my friend
Very nice!! 👏👏💪💪
51:45 i think you mean "continuity". As in, if a circuit is closed, continious. Anyways loving the video!
can you do a video compilation of all the upgrades you did, or a pdf or something with a side by side comparisons of what you changed from your build videos?
I have been watching these videos of and on. I just watched the liquid cooled steppers this morning. My question is, can this be bought as a full complete kit that I can assemble? I can't seem to find a place online or am I just looking in the wrong place?
Great build! Only things I see improvement in, is closing the electronics compartment completely and another accent colour... I don't like red... but that's matter of taste
Hey @vez3d when is mellow going to get a restock for the vz330? I was wondering also if the kit was going to include the aluminum bed plate support that's CNC cut ? I seen the pictures on your Facebook and they look very nice...
It includes all Z full cnc .. awesome 👌 and bed plate mic6 yes. It should be back soon.. but i dont have a date
@simon, 1 question, those 4 stepper driver fans are 24V? and all 4 parallel into one connector?
Not running the full 48v sir vez, maybe 42v. not trying to go 1000mm/s. just 300-800mm/s maybe. is a 350w 48v psu enough?
By the way: I see you have your bed plate made from the thick plate of aluminum. 8 mm?
This should have a lot of heat capacitance.
From your experience: how fast it can cool down after the printing?
Pro tip everyone: on 24:30 you can just use regular masking tape or painter's tape to do a very similar thing: just put the tape in the PSUs, mark with a pencial/pen/marker the holes, and then take the tape off the PSUs and place it in the backplate :)
yeah that was how I was always doing this. hehe. But I found the photocopy is a cool way
@@Vez3D I don't have a photocopier 🤣 funny I have 2 3D printers, but not a paper printer hahahahaha
@@Vez3D Great tip! I don''t know why I didn't think of this before. A lot of times I need to get a profile of something and I've just been measuring with a caliper, but scanning would be much faster.
Regarding the Arducam camera: just have a look at Aliexpress and I was surprised that they are so expencive! Most of the offers in US$120 price range!
Maybe it is just any kind of shortage?
What was the price you have bought the cam personally?
I believe that there was no video on the software instalation and the first run?
That's a pity. Usually this is the most exciting part of the entire project! :)))
First test of the homing, first moves...
At 3:10 you talk about the wattage the steppers will draw being 400w for all 4 of them. Respectfully, that is incorrect information. The wattage is limited by the stepper current and coil resistance, and per Ohm's law, if you're using LDO-42STH47-2504AC steppers with a coil resistance of 1.2 Ohm and a full 2.5A of current, you're going to be pulling around 7.5 watts per coil, or around 15w per stepper when running full tilt at 2.5A RMS. With those numbers in mind, a 100w 48v PSU would give you plenty of power to run those drivers, with about 40 watts to spare (and a bit lower than that with peaks).
The missing factor is that the stepper drivers don't push full voltage and current out to the stepper continuously; they're more like a buck converter that's sending a constant-current PWM signal to the steppers (this is similar to how a constant-current LED driver works), and while the input VOLTAGE can be higher, the input WATTAGE is limited by the stepper itself here.
Yeah I was wrong hehe. My electronic guy also told me. But thanks to explain this deepe to me and all other members here. I really apreciate this correction.
a tray under the machine for the eletronics would be perfect just take longer cables and its good like a server rack
Wait wait wait.....4 motors for X Y axes?like annex K3?
If yes can you link me please the project to build one for myself?
Thanks and compliment for the guide
is this plate already pre-drilled in the mellow kit?
Quick question. Why in your cfg file on github for the AWD, why is the dir pin opposite for x and x1. Shouldnt they turn the same way?
Additionally, im having issues with my additional motors(x1 and y1) getting hot than original motors (x and y). Same stepper. Same driver. Same run current. And synced. Any ideas?
I love the build ! I am wondering if there is any reason not to put the electronics inside the main body, separated by a panel. This would save a lot of space and in my opinion look quite neat.
I think having built Voron 2.4 350's - I would never have the electronics underneath again. Just not worth it. I am considering rear or side mounting for any future projects.
@@ChrizRockster Yes, back mounted, just on the inside ( more space efficient ).
For noobs like me, what wire dimension do you use? and for what elements/connections?
Are the ground outs from each PSU going to the DC rail, making those 3 ports in the middle a common ground? Or did you separate them in some way? As I understand it the AC ground is essentially shared to your whole alum backpanel, just curious about the separate 24v and 48v grounds.
Both 24 and 48v neg should be together
@@Vez3D that's what I figured, thanks!
Is there any disadvantage for using sensorless homing with the TMC drivers instead of those old end switches, which introduce more cables ?
I use end stop switches. I have been using sensorless in the past but its not as precise
51:40 I think the word you're looking for is 'continuity'
Liquid metal for the heatsinks?
What Is the benefit of using external 5160 driver instead of putting 5160 in the socket and fit the 48v directly on the board? Tnx
Powaaaa
Quick question; I have assembled my Mellow 330 AWD kit and getting it all working now. My CPAP fan is wired as shown on the github and goes to PF8 on the motherboard. It works but not very well, its very very sporadic rpm and doesn't work below about 60%. The PWM control doesn't sound right. On this printer, which is basically the same, you have it wired to the Pi and I don't see any difference in the firmware that is posted. Can you help?
Using pf8 should work pretty good. Did you flash the firmware with the pin setting?
@@Vez3D I did !PF8 on the firmware as it instructed. Then to the mother board. Is there a setting in the printer.cfg I'm missing I wonder?
I want to upgrade my folgertech ft6 like this
no issues with shielding for the pi or the stepper wires?
no.. not so far
Hello, I would like to use the SKR2 PCB, because I have one - is this PCB suitable for this project? I am building a version with two motors, one 24v power supply + TMC2209, does this make sense?
that should work yes
How do you hold your CPAP tube to the blower? I see you have a printed adapter but what keeps it on the adapter?
Its tight on it. It holds like that. But you can add a tie wrap too
@@Vez3D thanks!
Beginners need a video of firmware configuration i think u forgot to do that if u have it please let as know bro 😇💪🙏
I didn't see u use felement run out sensor actually I'm new in 3d printing I'm not sure if u need it on this printer
I have one yes
Steppers actually not work at 48 V @ 2 A.
You can measure the current consumed by the drivers - it is much less than the current flowing in the motor coils.
In static you will have the power equals to current squared * coil resistance. So it could be 2A * 2A * 3.3 Ohms = 13 W (or even 2 times less if the resistance is 1.65 Ohms which you are probably use)
There will be some losses in the drivers. But it's resistance I assume much lower in comparison to the couls resistance (1-2 orders of magnitude less).
In motion there will be more power consumption - this is for sure: magnetic losses, making physical work with factoring the efficiency.
Did you make any calculations or real life measure of the motor power dissipation?
Thanks for the explanation. Maze in my team explained it to me the other day hehe. But its nice to have it in a comment. Appreciate it. I have not measure or calculate power dissipation
@@Vez3D Look what I have found: th-cam.com/video/Zpob3VVTzp4/w-d-xo.html
Thery deep review of the steppers power consumption (BTW at 48 volts as well)
is vez a lighting wizard, a gym bro, or the person his wife makes move around furniture? Bicep vein popping out for the first little while.
Been working out daily for the past 18 years 💪 hehe keep mind and body in shape.
I don't see bed living sensor Bl touch do we need it on this printer ?
I dont use one. I personnaly just do a manual bed levelling once, and then forget about it for months (or until I have to do maintenance/work on the Z or bed)
Thank u brother 🙏
is it posible to contact bl touch to the mother board that u using and filament run out sensor?
As i want to biuld the same one u built thank u 🙏
@@fastfood122 ofc its possible
U r amazing person brother thank for all ur help 🙏 ,🤞hopefully u will make more educational video on this board and bed leveling and the felement run out sensor for the newbies like me ,
again Thank u so much and keep doing the good work 😇🙏💪
Pls design a mini version
But why is the rum gone?
estou no Brasil tentando fazer um igual ,com pouco dinheiro kkk
Why does no one use rack and pinion set up in these light weight builds I don't get it.
I'm not sure I understand how that would save weight? Rack and pinion is used more on larger CNC machines because belts would flex too much, and they need to be more rigid when cutting. Do you mean linear bearings?
Ghetto M4 bolts soon available from Mellow 🤫 😉
haha
In the video somewhere you changed to another SSR. What's the reason behind that? Your new one (seen at @1:07:18) could be a fake Fotek one. Beware, these fake once are poor quality, I've had one melting down at one point..
I had a wrong model..it was a dc to dc. I bought a genuine fotek one from a trusted seller here. Its not a fake :)
@@Vez3D 😎👍
Link to camera?
github.com/VzBoT3D/VzBoT-Vz235/tree/main/CAD/Arducam%20UC-626
Vez3D 57:49 From 3 to 7 ( its 5 drivers ??:P) should be from 4 to 7 same like late is from 0 to 2 should be 0 to 3 :@D
a yes its 3 + 5 not 4+4 ....
hey vez i cant download the file that u put in the link
Try to right click save as. It works for me
hi working now thank heap for ur help
CPAP fan and controller link is wrong
fixed. thanks
@@Vez3D Looks that spam filter eat my latest message. What you think is A express item 4000891103100 "9290 ventilator" too overkill?
@@TH-wr1dv i think thats what wayne uses and he said its quieter since its bigger
Good muscles though!
Yeah those 5160hz pro are quite powerfull
@@Vez3D Yes, 5160 are powerful things for sure!
I meant that YOUR muscles are good (1:23:00). Keep going!!!
Could I do this to my v400 ?😂
first lol
first™