CHEAP & POWERFUL 30amp Battery Charger Real Output Test: DC1230A
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2021
- This battery charger has already failed. This is a link to the seller, DO NOT BUY FROM HIM. He will not accept a return or offer any help. ebay.us/aGM2Jd
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Since you are clamping on the thin gauge wires, they might actually not be physically capable of 30 amps. So that’s why the clamp meter reads less. you might read more current if you upgrade the leads.
Make sure you discharge main filter capacitors if you open up and replace leads.
Had to use this one to jump start a van, had a 1000w generator, connected up, turned on, pressed the 2 buttons, it gave me 10 seconds of 30amps, got van started , the Croc clips are naff, changed them, last post by me was crazy crab, it works, ,
I'm not an electrician either, but I believe it's actually the amps that do the damage if you get electrocuted, not the volts. I would also suspect that, if it isn't earthed internally, the main power lead into the unit may possibly only be running 2 wires instead of 3, so you may want to check that. Just a thought, other than that the voltages looked reasonably healthy, and 20 amps is still a lot of charging power. A smaller charger of say 4 amps output will still charge a large battery, it just takes longer.
My big charger reads up to 10 amps when charging and when on start mode 20 amps, the leads are as big as jumper leads, I've had it for 15 years but it did cost $480nzd, I have a trickle charger as well that has a winter mode, good when the car isn't used over the winter or when on holiday for a few weeks/months. you get what you pay for
Few interesting points.
- A power supply will only push as much current as the car wants to draw, with a full battery you realistically shouldn't have 100 amps coming out of even a 100 amp supply.
- If concerned about current going too high, you can add an auto reset breaker, when current gets high enough it breaks the connection, then when it cools down (current drops) it re connects.
- I wonder if your results vary when connecting to the engine bay terminals, instead of straight to the battery which will sink the voltage and has less resistance to the IGN power drawers
- Those cables are probably losing the extra 10 odd amps being so small gauge. I didn't do any maths but if they are getting that hot, imagine 10 amps of draw going to heating the cable.
Well, 20A is still a lot of currents. I'm a little bit concerned about the output voltage. What I learned about coding modules, the voltage has to be near 13,7 V. And you could change the wire by 1 bigger grade, or double the wires. So 2 wires for + and the same for negative. And when this device is connected to the terminals in the front of the car, the battery sensor will decide how much current will be put in the car. I think I would buy such a device if the lower output voltage will not be a problem when coding modules. Good luck, Dutch regards, Nico.
I’d definitely be upgrading those piss small cables and retesting the current delivery. Maybe get another plug so you can use the cables you use with the dell power supply.
Just got that model, UK £30, and a 1000w inverter Geny, I got a 110amp leasure batt and 2 85amp batts, they came out of a mobility cycle, every 3rd day, I charge the 110 with charger, set at 20amps, and a 85amp batt using the 12v 5amp plug in on Geny, 4hrs, all charged, the 110 does the diesel heater, the 85 does the LED lights and small TV, as the 110 charges up, the amps go down, when it gets to 5amps ish, or 4hrs of running Geny turn off, it does the job, so far, early days, :), got to make the leads longer
Will be very interesting to see the results using thicker wire. I wouldn't be surprised if the supplied leads were aluminum either, its fairly common for low cost power supplies to forgo copper.
Like others have said though, a fair bit of the difference you're seeing is probably down to the resistance those piddling little leads are imposing. Ideally they shouldn't be getting hot at all as every Watt used to heat them up isn't making it to where you want the power to go. Resistance also increases with temperature so it can be a bit of a compounding problem.
All that said, the ground and/or power plane on charger's PCB and/or the PCB's connection to the leads might be a limiting factor with better leads. Might want to keep that IR thermometer on the inside of the charger just in case. On that thermometer, you probably already know but they can't really be trusted unless you're aware of and account for the emissivity of the object you're pointing it at.
For sure earth that casing too! Can't hurt.
I'd be a bit scared of catastrophic failure and always on edge using it 😂
Ok so a few videos ago I started a drinking game. Every time you say DCT I chug a beer 🍺 you only said it 3 times on this video so thank you 🤪
To be legal in Australia it should have the RCM 'C-tick' mark on it to show that it's compliant with electrical safety and EMC regulations.
Its a lead acid battery - its internal resistance will mean it hits its constant voltage max way before it current max- I have one and when bulk charging a big lithium it hits 30amps - I openend mine up and soldered 10AWG silicon leads in place of the underszize leads provided and used an XT60 to my battery - no more heating issues
Have you got a part number off of your Dell power supply please? as when flashing my ecu I can't drop below 12v and battery chargers just don't cut it! I've gone through a few and they just won't hold 12+v when flashing. Thanks
The issue is the wire gauge the charger is outputting its rated voltage and current but the higher the current the higher the loss in the wire is. A loss in the wire is an increase in heat and resistance thus ut is dropping voltage and reducing the amperage getting through to the battery. If the wire had less resistance (thicker gauge or better copper conductors) you would have closer voltage and amperage at higher levels because there would be less wire resistance loss.
In all honesty, I find it terrifying that it’s not earthed. In the UK you could report the seller to UK trading standards and they’d get shut down - if bought from UK seller. I wouldn’t use this PSU without double earthing it.
As others have said the unit is losing power through the small cable size in heat/resistance.
Given the choice of £50 or my car/house/life I’d probably give this a miss - after much consideration 🤨
I've been bit by 110v plenty of times. Smarts a bit but it's not that bad.
Mine dont get hot, but only show either 0.44 or 0.00 current so may not be even charging
Glad you're heading to rolls.
i wish, these lock downs can eat a d...... nevermind.
If the charger is multi volt i.e. 6V, 12V they'll often trick you.
I've found 30A at 6V, the 12V output wont be what you thought you were buying.
Hey Andrew, I think the e90 suck like 25A with the ignition on - thats heaps !
Can U tell me the value of R28 in the board?
Or the color code of it
I had same one with burnt resistor and need to replace it
Please
Unfortunately this died not long after this video and I threw it away. Seller would not warranty it.
Your lucky with yours, unless my batterys all knackered my current shows 0.53
@10:13 am I the only one concerned You have not taken the charger off the + ?!?!
I'm no electrician but that just seems plain dangerous to me, no earth and the charge cables are not high enough spec to support the current output creating a fire hazard, can you not just use a decent CTEK charger for this?
dc voltage does not have what you call an earth, it is called a ground because electricity flows from negative to positive. All ac source needs a bonded connection.
Double the cable thickness and it should be ok at 30amps....
Hi can you use this charger to charge a deep cell battery?
no way, its rubbish
I was interested in the ‘Battery Electricity’ setting. Does that give percentage of battery power remaining?
Sorry but this unit failed about 2 weeks after the video. Wasn’t a good thing at all.
@@ZeroTo60Tube ok dear sorry to hear that. I’ve had mine for two years and have used it about 3 times so hopefully that doesn’t happen to mine.
@@ZeroTo60TubeIs your mates 40A one still working? And if so, does his one charge at 30A instead of 40A or do they both cap out ar 20A?
Those wires getting that hot is sketchy AF. Needs an earth and larger gauge charge wires. You might see ~30A if you weren't expending current heating the wires 🙃
Also... ROLL RACING CONTENT?! 😎
The discrepancy between the charger and the meter is because of the voltage drop on the cables. Essentially you are not measuring the power needed to heat the wires.
Also, I thought the BMW wanted a power supply and not a battery charger because the car has a battery charger built-in, so you end up with two 'smart' battery chargers varying the voltages.
Did someone say ROLL RACING..!!??
They did! I got you this time.... orrrr NOT
@@ZeroTo60Tube i will be there again... should be a great night.
So Australia has a 220 volt system for their household electricity? That's much better than the unsafe 120V system we have in Canada. Which is just so ridiculous (Par for Canada's governing body mind you seeing that we are one idiot away from full blown Marxism). Any way I was wondering what your main general auto and household type supply store out there is? We have "Canadian Tire" and for the actual farmer and things that are more heavy duty etc we have "Princess Auto". (Quality tools and surplus supply etc). Yes it's a silly name just like I said it's Canada. lol. I know in the states they have "Harbor Freight" which I think is like our Can Tire. Useful but not really what the people need lol. It's the place you go to grab that killer deal on the Combo "Air compressor/battery jumper/charger/power supply/cellphone charger/emergency signal/flashlight/searchlight/siren/ashtray/foot massager/air freshener/Cigarette lighter/smoke detector" for $39.95 +tax slashed down from $119.95 +tax LOL.
Glad I came here. Good call on checking the earth. I'll bear that in mind for Chinese made stuff in future.
The first thing earth bonding does is to electrically connect all exposed metal surfaces in as many places as possible, to minimise the risk of there developing a dangerous electrical potential between two touchable points (this is why, for example, there is an earth bond between hot and cold water pipes). Appliance bonding is part of that - it should not be possible for a hazardous voltage to exist between the exteriors of two earthed appliances, as said exteriors are connected to each other through the earth.
The other reason for earthing casework is as you said, a fault will cause a trip to trip or a fuse to blow if the case becomes live. Non-earthed appliances have to be double insulated and display a symbol (a square within a square) to indicate that.
The fact that the output cables are not up to the job suggests that skimping was also done on the internal component selection. I'm not surprised your unit has failed.
After spending hours researching cheap battery charges, I've come to the conclusion not to bother with them for serious use case (charging my domestic batteries on my live-aboard boat) and I've ordered a Victron charger.
🙋🏼♂️
Sketchy junk. Throw it on the neighbours roof.
Lol, we like our neighbours. So maybe just thier trampoline.
@@ZeroTo60Tube can i have that charger please if you won't use it please?
@@Dj2006 it went in the bin not long after this video.
@@ZeroTo60Tube wow…
@@Dj2006 it stopped working with in a week of this video.