❤e sure your mount flange on thesolenoid is flat not twisted orbent from overtightining won't seal unless flat mine dip bent .n put great stuff on edge😮
@@rikkydavidson1762yeah just looked at mine and it doesn't have a flange bolt, someone tried to use a normal 10mm bolt. Had to order a new one from Honda. On the plus side, the solenoid itself will most likely come out easy considering that it was never fully tightened down.
This is wonderful. I have an old couple who own this vehicel with the very same leak and hopefully with this video I can change that o ring out today and save their engine from a catastrophic leak.
Thanks for this video, if anyone else like me was having troubles with even needle nose pliers i just gave the top of the solenoid a couple love taps and she came right out.
I just replaced my 2006 Honda Accord VTC Solenoid oil last night. It's easy to remove but to put it back is a pain because you can see where the bolt goes. You need a small mirror to see where the parts goes....
Thank you! Mine was stuck but I was able to get it out. I used some pliers with a 90 degree bend, and then used it as a lever with a round screwdriver handle against the engine
I couldn't find pliers small enough... or big enough.. I got some wiggle out of a pair of channel lock type pliers. And wedged a flat head between the engine and the plastic electric connector.. using the flat head to slide instead of pry... I got lucky... also I had a replacement solenoid handy.
In the case of leaks like this from the o-ring, I guess there's no check engine light and there's no DTC code to reset? Just a straight remove, clean and reinstall of the VTC solenoid?
Nice one. Yep, always remove electrical connectors before removing mechanical ones as if you break the wiring, you're into loads of bother. Try using a longer flat nose screwdriver or your wife's eyebrow tweezers to remove tiny rubber seals but make sure you clean it after or she'll have oil dripping down her face and won't be happy 😉
@@DIYAutoworksNG I think the people that still have leaks after is because the O ring isn’t properly seated. You should feel something like a little pop Just have to apply a little pressure.
Yeah, after watching this video I just cringe at the end when you stick a metal screwdriver tip to pull out the O-ring. If anything a plastic tool should be used to pull the O-ring up and then snipped to remove. The channel should not be scarred in any way because any damage to the dimensions of the groove will make it that much harder for the O-ring replacement to seal.
I wish i watched your video earlier, i’ve just broken the plastic part and the rest of the solenoid got stuck inside, how could i take it off? Please help me
Sorry to hear this. Difficult to provide support without seeing what the stump looks like. Is there still something to grab on to? You'll likely need variations of long needle nose pliers, including the 90 degree variants of appropriate.
I replaced the engine cover seal and the solenoid seal behind the engine. I still have an oil leak, guess I’ll try this. You just replaced the o ring? Why not the part
Thanks for the video. I have watched 2 different videos about this and both did not show the o ring being installed. I know it’s easy to take a O-Ring off (you can just cut it) but getting a new O-Ring on can be a problem. Any tips for getting the new O-Ring on??
Again, really sorry not showing the installation of the o-ring. Felt it was so basic that doing it off camera wouldn't have been an issue. Apologies. What doesn't come out quite well in this video is that the toughest part of this job is pulling out the solenoid from the engine without breaking off the connector! Especially on high mileage engines. Many have made this mistake (pulling on the connector) and that was a major focus for this video. For the o-ring, you just wear it on and roll it down till it gets to and sits in its groove. Dipping it in oil helps. Not difficult at all.
Thanks for the prompt reply. I know those screens are ver delicate, this is why I wanted to see how someone installed the o ring. I’ve owned Honda’s all my life and I know things like this are easy to remove but hard to install.. I will make sure to be careful with the connection. Good tip about getting frustrated during a job, often times this happens to me
Thats good what you did but just to correct you in something that is not the vt c solenoid thats the (vvt) variable valve timing, your vtec solenoid is on the back of the engine
Thank you for your comment. The part is actually the VTC (variable timing control) solenoid and is different from the vtec (Variable Valve Timing & Lift Electronic Control) solenoid. This accord has both solenoids.
Hi Sir. Excellent post. Can you please tell me the size of O-ring needed. The original part is more than US dollar $13. Can you fit a generic o-ring instead? Thank you.
Unfortunate that this simple o-ring is $13. I really don't have the measurements for the part, but I don't see why a closely chosen one won't work. I have done just that at least once for a different o-ring. Only thing is that, I took the old o-ring to the parts store and got one ever so slightly 'meatier' if you know what I mean (since the old one would be worn). Hope this helps.
You really should replace any rubber seals with original parts, never skim on rubber seals. Anything other than original stiffens and turns into plastic from constant heat and cold. This is very common and stupid mistake BMW owners make, it's why you always see oil leaks on them, originals cost a ton, they go with aftermarker and it all leaks.
Agreed. Though this particular OEM o-ring leaks on many vehicles. However I agree that OEM will outperform aftermarket seals. I used the OEM in the video.
can u show how to actually replace the o rings and putting it back on? are there other o rings on that solenoid? its not as easy as one would think when getting old gaskets off. thanks
Hi there, Sorry I didn't complete the shot where the o-ring was brought out, however, you just need something like tiny pincers or the tip of a tiny screwdriver as you saw me use in the video. That's what I used to complete the task off-camera. Fitting the new o-ring is super easy. No sweat with that. Wish I could do another video of the whole thing, but don't know when next I will visit that area!!
Can you confirm what weight of engine oil you are using and how long ago you did an oil change? Low oil/dirty oil can cause this code. Also, try to check VTC strainer. Not sure what car/model this is, but on the 7th gen Accord its just behind the power steering pump. I doubt a worn VTC solenoid o-ring will cause this code.
The codes for a clogged solenoid are more like P1009 etc. Have you changed your oil since you got this code? Many times, changing the oil resolves the code. That's usually the first thing to try.
Did you also replace PCV valve and is your Honda leak free now?? One reason for leaking could be too much pressure inside caused by PCV malfunction that gaskets can handle. Thanks for video.
Thanks. I replaced my PCV valve some years ago so I doubt it would have failed again. Also the o-ring on the solenoid was aged and brittle so the leak was definitely due to failure of the o-ring.
Anyone know how to get the narrow gray part out of the hole? The black portion broke off and was removed but the gray portion of the part stayed inside the motor? Please help🤦🏻♂️
so you said you just replaced the O-ring? Did you just slide the new right down the shaft and sit it in the space where the old one was? i have seen some people replace the solenoid?
Yes, I just replaced the o-ring and made sure it sat well in it's seating area. The leak drastically reduced but I am noticing some dampness around the solenoid. Some people have reported adding Hondabond or RTV silicone to the o-ring to get the area bone dry. Others have also replaced the solenoid. That said I have seen some one who replaced with OEM solenoid, yet the leak continued. You could start with the o-ring and see if it helps...
You didn't have to take out any of the power steering pump assembly or anything right? You just removed the ground wire to gain access to the bolt and solenoid?
@DIYAutoworksNG my 03 just hit 200k and I had to do the valve cover since I had a small leak so with that out it gave me enough clearance to change this part as well as the vtec gasket but the vtec was easier from the bottom so thank you.
Most important thing is getting an o-ring with the exact dimensions. It should have some thermal and oil resistance. For parts like this, I would buy aftermarket if I find.
Definitely, problems in the VTC or VTEC circuit can cause that. There are other causes though. I would say scan the vehicle, the code should give a good indication of the actual cause. Not revving above 3K rpms is generally known as limp mode.
Usually, a leak alone shouldn't cause limp mode except it is really profuse and gets to the point where oil starvation occurs in the solenoid. The oil level on the dipstick should be below the low mark at this point and the CEL on. But to be honest, I recommend getting a scan.
Did you lose a lot of oil from this? Im having this issue and i see oil leaking right there at the vtc and it's a lot when i see under the car all over the right side of the engine (or left when you look from the top) but no check engine light, car runs normal. Its not the vtec solenoid on the back of the engine cuz i changed the gasket there and its not the vtc strainer cuz it's bone dry.
Mine also had a similar track as you described, although it was more of wetness. Might be worth degreasing the whole area to identify if the timing chain cover or oil pan is also leaking.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Yeah, I'll clean the area and check. Did it fix your problem just changing the o ring cuz some people telling me I have to replace the whole part?
I still see some dampness there but not like how it was before. Some people have replaced new OEM sensors and still had leaks. I have seen 2 reports of people who used Hondabond in addition to the new o-ring and that solved the leak. I will add Hondabond and see if it completely disappears.
I checked the service manual and didn't find it. I think I used something around 10 - 12Nm since bolts going into the aluminium have around that torque.
Mine came apart before complete removal. 🆘🆘🆘. The black connection pulled off of cylinder housing. Cylinder housing still within motor . Due to tolerance? ?? and perhaps existing lubrication suction??! Can not extract the inner core The angle is nearly impossible to see work etc. I even removed those main two motor mount bolts No luck Stuck Have a brand new Honda solenoid Can’t think through a solution to pull out that now flush inner solenoid cylinder Help 🆘🆘🆘🤙
Look for long 90 degree angle pliers. Plus the kind of long needle-nose pliers I used. Maybe they would help. This was exactly the reason for which I made this video....That black connector yanks off easily if leverage is not applied to the body of the solenoid itself. You should still have some part of the solenoid to grip unto, right?
If the solenoid is not stuck, it should be less than 20mins. Mine had a number of failed attempts untill I got the long needle nose pliers I used in the video.
Hello Mario, Sadly, I haven't worked on this vehicle before and I have search online for a location but can't seem to find any. My guess will be search for it in the same location. That is if it does have VTC solenoid
Hola. Gracias por preguntar. ¡Estoy usando el Traductor de Google! Desafortunadamente, Honda no mencionó el tamaño del sello en el solenoide en el sitio donde lo compré. Además, no tomé una medida antes de colocar la pieza.
Ouch. Never had the experience, but there are loads of videos on how to get those out. Includes screwing in a bolt into the broken piece after you've removed the inner shaft.
Sí. Desafortunadamente, no medí esto antes de instalarlo. Vi algunas dimensiones en este sitio. www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~oil~seal~control~valve~15832-raa-a01.html Enumeró las dimensiones como 1,0 x 0,9 x 0,2 pulgadas. Sin embargo, asegúrese de verificar si este es el tamaño real. Intenta medir el viejo también para comparar. El anterior será un poco menos.
There are a couple removal methods, you should see some videos here on TH-cam. Basically, remove the central shaft, screw in an appropriate size screw then use the extraction method shown in this video for leverage and removal. All the best!
You did not change the O ring. You said to use a screwdriver but you did not. This would not be a good idea anyhow!! A pick with a blunted tip would be a lot better.
Well, I did change the o-ring off camera. Remember I showed the replacement part at the beginning of the video. Changing it was to whole point to stop the leaks I was having at the time. I agree a blunt pick is a better tool.
Piyke DIYAutoWorksNG You should have changed the O ring on camera. Then we would know what to do and HOW to do it. "Changing it was the whole point..." .
@David Jones I have a 06 Accord coupe....when I first got it last August I felt like I hit the jackpot...I still kinda do since they hard to find. But since I had it I had to replace critical parts like CV axles and engine mounts. Next I have to replace the gasket on the VTEC actuator, the O ring on the VVT Selonoid, the power steering hose, the O2 sensor, give it a injection clean and the hardest one of all, in terms of BOTH parts and labor..the struts... At least, it don't cost an arm and a leg to fix it...
Best advice ever is @ 4:24 . I can say this is so true. Save your self the frustration . Well said.
Thanks!
yes agreed
❤e sure your mount flange on thesolenoid is flat not twisted orbent from overtightining won't seal unless flat mine dip bent .n put great stuff on edge😮
@@rikkydavidson1762yeah just looked at mine and it doesn't have a flange bolt, someone tried to use a normal 10mm bolt. Had to order a new one from Honda. On the plus side, the solenoid itself will most likely come out easy considering that it was never fully tightened down.
@@DIYAutoworksNGcan that motor mount or whatever the ground strap bolts to be taken off to allow for more room?
This is wonderful. I have an old couple who own this vehicel with the very same leak and hopefully with this video I can change that o ring out today and save their engine from a catastrophic leak.
Oh! How lovely. Do let me know how it goes.
Thank you for taking the time to record this most helpful video.
Thanks for this video, if anyone else like me was having troubles with even needle nose pliers i just gave the top of the solenoid a couple love taps and she came right out.
You're welcome. Thanks for sharing the extra tip!
My father taught me that too. LOL
@@michaelm9621 you’re so lucky to have a dad who was there to teach you little tips and tricks. I wonder how many other useful tips he thought you
I just replaced my 2006 Honda Accord VTC Solenoid oil last night. It's easy to remove but to put it back is a pain because you can see where the bolt goes. You need a small mirror to see where the parts goes....
Thank you! Mine was stuck but I was able to get it out. I used some pliers with a 90 degree bend, and then used it as a lever with a round screwdriver handle against the engine
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Really nice. The key thing is to never yank on the plastic connector!
I couldn't find pliers small enough... or big enough.. I got some wiggle out of a pair of channel lock type pliers. And wedged a flat head between the engine and the plastic electric connector.. using the flat head to slide instead of pry... I got lucky... also I had a replacement solenoid handy.
Only helpful video that came up in my search 🤝🏼
Thanks!
In the case of leaks like this from the o-ring, I guess there's no check engine light and there's no DTC code to reset?
Just a straight remove, clean and reinstall of the VTC solenoid?
Exactly!
Thanks for posting this video. This is a great video. Super helpful.🙂
Thanks!
My solenoid was stuck too. I used the thickest part of my 90 degree long needle nose pliers to get it out.
Nice!
Nice one. Yep, always remove electrical connectors before removing mechanical ones as if you break the wiring, you're into loads of bother.
Try using a longer flat nose screwdriver or your wife's eyebrow tweezers to remove tiny rubber seals but make sure you clean it after or she'll have oil dripping down her face and won't be happy 😉
Thanks, mate. After all these years, I'm yet to get a pick for such tasks. You just reminded me to get one!
Thank you for your help! May Yahweh go before you, friend.
Thanks!!!
Awesome exactly what I needed Thanks.
Glad it helped!
@@DIYAutoworksNG I think the people that still have leaks after is because the O ring isn’t properly seated. You should feel something like a little pop Just have to apply a little pressure.
Nice work, saved me time and much money!
Great to hear!!!
Yeah, after watching this video I just cringe at the end when you stick a metal screwdriver tip to pull out the O-ring. If anything a plastic tool should be used to pull the O-ring up and then snipped to remove. The channel should not be scarred in any way because any damage to the dimensions of the groove will make it that much harder for the O-ring replacement to seal.
Good comment you have here. Very correct.
@@DIYAutoworksNGsteady hands are a blessing, not everyone has them.
Can you share a link where you can buy that seal for a 2003 Honda Accord on Amazon.
I can't find it either
Excellent Video, much Appreciated
Thanks!
I wish i watched your video earlier, i’ve just broken the plastic part and the rest of the solenoid got stuck inside, how could i take it off? Please help me
Sorry to hear this. Difficult to provide support without seeing what the stump looks like. Is there still something to grab on to? You'll likely need variations of long needle nose pliers, including the 90 degree variants of appropriate.
I replaced the engine cover seal and the solenoid seal behind the engine. I still have an oil leak, guess I’ll try this. You just replaced the o ring? Why not the part
If you don't have a code for the VTC solenoid, then no need to replace the part
Javier Romero I did not see him replace the O ring. He could not get the old one off. Maybe he should have actually used a screwdriver.
Thank you! This greatly helped me! You’re awesome 👍🏾
Glad it was helpful!
what if it still leaks even though I replaced all the O rings?
Thanks for the video.
I have watched 2 different videos about this and both did not show the o ring being installed. I know it’s easy to take a O-Ring off (you can just cut it) but getting a new O-Ring on can be a problem.
Any tips for getting the new O-Ring on??
Again, really sorry not showing the installation of the o-ring. Felt it was so basic that doing it off camera wouldn't have been an issue. Apologies.
What doesn't come out quite well in this video is that the toughest part of this job is pulling out the solenoid from the engine without breaking off the connector! Especially on high mileage engines. Many have made this mistake (pulling on the connector) and that was a major focus for this video.
For the o-ring, you just wear it on and roll it down till it gets to and sits in its groove. Dipping it in oil helps. Not difficult at all.
Thanks for the prompt reply.
I know those screens are ver delicate, this is why I wanted to see how someone installed the o ring. I’ve owned Honda’s all my life and I know things like this are easy to remove but hard to install..
I will make sure to be careful with the connection.
Good tip about getting frustrated during a job, often times this happens to me
Worked great for me! Great video!!
Glad it did!
Thats good what you did but just to correct you in something that is not the vt c solenoid thats the (vvt) variable valve timing, your vtec solenoid is on the back of the engine
Thank you for your comment.
The part is actually the VTC (variable timing control) solenoid and is different from the vtec (Variable Valve Timing & Lift Electronic Control) solenoid. This accord has both solenoids.
Thank you so much it help me a lot.
Many thanks. Glad it helped!
Hi Sir. Excellent post. Can you please tell me the size of O-ring needed. The original part is more than US dollar $13. Can you fit a generic o-ring instead? Thank you.
Unfortunate that this simple o-ring is $13. I really don't have the measurements for the part, but I don't see why a closely chosen one won't work. I have done just that at least once for a different o-ring. Only thing is that, I took the old o-ring to the parts store and got one ever so slightly 'meatier' if you know what I mean (since the old one would be worn). Hope this helps.
The entire valve is only $80 brand new. Just replace the whole thing.
You really should replace any rubber seals with original parts, never skim on rubber seals. Anything other than original stiffens and turns into plastic from constant heat and cold. This is very common and stupid mistake BMW owners make, it's why you always see oil leaks on them, originals cost a ton, they go with aftermarker and it all leaks.
Agreed. Though this particular OEM o-ring leaks on many vehicles. However I agree that OEM will outperform aftermarket seals. I used the OEM in the video.
can u show how to actually replace the o rings and putting it back on? are there other o rings on that solenoid? its not as easy as one would think when getting old gaskets off. thanks
Hi there,
Sorry I didn't complete the shot where the o-ring was brought out, however, you just need something like tiny pincers or the tip of a tiny screwdriver as you saw me use in the video. That's what I used to complete the task off-camera. Fitting the new o-ring is super easy. No sweat with that. Wish I could do another video of the whole thing, but don't know when next I will visit that area!!
@@DIYAutoworksNG can we just take out the whole thing and replace the solenoid as a whole?
@@DIYAutoworksNG What's the part number as well?
Can this cause p2646? I've replaced the rocker oil pressure solenoid assembly, and the control gasket. Still messes up all the time
Can you confirm what weight of engine oil you are using and how long ago you did an oil change? Low oil/dirty oil can cause this code. Also, try to check VTC strainer. Not sure what car/model this is, but on the 7th gen Accord its just behind the power steering pump. I doubt a worn VTC solenoid o-ring will cause this code.
@@DIYAutoworksNG replaced that filter already, could that solenoid have some of the passages clogged? It appears to have 3
The codes for a clogged solenoid are more like P1009 etc. Have you changed your oil since you got this code? Many times, changing the oil resolves the code. That's usually the first thing to try.
@@DIYAutoworksNG I think they brought me 5-30 high mileage for the oil change.
You mean you've had an oil change since having this code?
Did you also replace PCV valve and is your Honda leak free now?? One reason for leaking could be too much pressure inside caused by PCV malfunction that gaskets can handle. Thanks for video.
Thanks.
I replaced my PCV valve some years ago so I doubt it would have failed again. Also the o-ring on the solenoid was aged and brittle so the leak was definitely due to failure of the o-ring.
Anyone know how to get the narrow gray part out of the hole? The black portion broke off and was removed but the gray portion of the part stayed inside the motor? Please help🤦🏻♂️
Haven't done this myself, but there are some videos for that on TH-cam.
so you said you just replaced the O-ring? Did you just slide the new right down the shaft and sit it in the space where the old one was? i have seen some people replace the solenoid?
Yes, I just replaced the o-ring and made sure it sat well in it's seating area. The leak drastically reduced but I am noticing some dampness around the solenoid. Some people have reported adding Hondabond or RTV silicone to the o-ring to get the area bone dry. Others have also replaced the solenoid. That said I have seen some one who replaced with OEM solenoid, yet the leak continued. You could start with the o-ring and see if it helps...
You didn't have to take out any of the power steering pump assembly or anything right? You just removed the ground wire to gain access to the bolt and solenoid?
Exactly. No need to remove the the PS pump. Ground wire removed for more space. Thanks for watching.
Thanks. Good video.
Are there two of these or no
1
I think this is where I'm leaking oil too IL give it a try
Great Clint. Will be happy to know how it goes
where sourcing Honda 0 rings???? For 7th gen accords
Hey. I got them from hondapartscheap.com
I here vvt and vtc solenoid from different shop's so my question is are they the same? Thank you.
Same variable timing part branded differently by manufacturers. VVT is for Toyota, VTC is Honda.
@@DIYAutoworksNG thank you so much
@DIYAutoworksNG my 03 just hit 200k and I had to do the valve cover since I had a small leak so with that out it gave me enough clearance to change this part as well as the vtec gasket but the vtec was easier from the bottom so thank you.
Yea, it's much easier if the valve cover is off. Good work.
Bros were your workshop dey ?
Hey. Trust good. No workshop or commercial services at this time
What were the symptoms that made you look there.
No symptoms. It was the oil leakage that made me change the o-ring.
Please What is the size of the o-ring?
Honestly not sure
does this need to be a oem 150$ part or cheaper trq part 30$
Most important thing is getting an o-ring with the exact dimensions. It should have some thermal and oil resistance. For parts like this, I would buy aftermarket if I find.
Is it possible this can cause the car to not want to go over 3000rpms?
Definitely, problems in the VTC or VTEC circuit can cause that. There are other causes though. I would say scan the vehicle, the code should give a good indication of the actual cause. Not revving above 3K rpms is generally known as limp mode.
Piyke DIYAutoWorksNG so could a bad cat keep it in limp mode and cause that because my engine light stays on
Also to clarify,.... will a Leak itself cause that?
I can tell it has Ben leaking from the sylanoid
Usually, a leak alone shouldn't cause limp mode except it is really profuse and gets to the point where oil starvation occurs in the solenoid. The oil level on the dipstick should be below the low mark at this point and the CEL on. But to be honest, I recommend getting a scan.
Did you lose a lot of oil from this? Im having this issue and i see oil leaking right there at the vtc and it's a lot when i see under the car all over the right side of the engine (or left when you look from the top) but no check engine light, car runs normal. Its not the vtec solenoid on the back of the engine cuz i changed the gasket there and its not the vtc strainer cuz it's bone dry.
Mine also had a similar track as you described, although it was more of wetness. Might be worth degreasing the whole area to identify if the timing chain cover or oil pan is also leaking.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Yeah, I'll clean the area and check. Did it fix your problem just changing the o ring cuz some people telling me I have to replace the whole part?
I still see some dampness there but not like how it was before. Some people have replaced new OEM sensors and still had leaks. I have seen 2 reports of people who used Hondabond in addition to the new o-ring and that solved the leak.
I will add Hondabond and see if it completely disappears.
Ok, I'll see how i can fix it. Thanks a lot for the quick answers!
Anyone know the torque spec for that bolt? Is hand tightened safe?
I checked the service manual and didn't find it. I think I used something around 10 - 12Nm since bolts going into the aluminium have around that torque.
Mine came apart before complete removal. 🆘🆘🆘. The black connection pulled off of cylinder housing. Cylinder housing still within motor .
Due to tolerance? ?? and perhaps existing lubrication suction??!
Can not extract the inner core
The angle is nearly impossible to see work etc.
I even removed those main two motor mount bolts
No luck
Stuck
Have a brand new Honda solenoid
Can’t think through a solution to pull out that now flush inner solenoid cylinder
Help 🆘🆘🆘🤙
Look for long 90 degree angle pliers. Plus the kind of long needle-nose pliers I used. Maybe they would help. This was exactly the reason for which I made this video....That black connector yanks off easily if leverage is not applied to the body of the solenoid itself. You should still have some part of the solenoid to grip unto, right?
About how long does it take to replace the part.?
If the solenoid is not stuck, it should be less than 20mins. Mine had a number of failed attempts untill I got the long needle nose pliers I used in the video.
hi there just asking i have 2005 honda civic 1.7 where the location of the VTC solenoid thanks.
Hello Mario,
Sadly, I haven't worked on this vehicle before and I have search online for a location but can't seem to find any. My guess will be search for it in the same location. That is if it does have VTC solenoid
It doesn’t have one if it is the VTEC engine it has a VTEC solenoid on the back of the motor.
@@shadowthesi it does have one if its vtec. A variable timing control solenoid That's a spool valve on the back. I have both on my rsx
Why does that 10mm screw stick out like that
It sticks out by design. It's a special bolt. The part that sticks out is not threaded.
What size needle nose plyers?
Not sure the exact size but the long ones, from eyeballing it, I would guess 4inches at least
Que medida es la liga que lleva ahí la busco no la encuentro sola viene completo el vvt
Hola. Gracias por preguntar. ¡Estoy usando el Traductor de Google! Desafortunadamente, Honda no mencionó el tamaño del sello en el solenoide en el sitio donde lo compré. Además, no tomé una medida antes de colocar la pieza.
@@DIYAutoworksNG okey gracias pero si estaría bien saber número de parte i buscarla pura loga no la encuentro sola
Thanks 🙏
You're welcome!
How much does it cost to do this?
If doing yourself, you just need to buy the o-ring. Cost me around $12 from Honda dealers.
How does it run now?
Hi Bethany,
It runs pretty well. No issues. I did this to fix an oil leak.
I have a 2004 CRV, where is the VVTS located on this vehicle? Thank you
The VTC solenoid is in the same position on the CRV, as well as the VTEC solenoid assembly.
Mine just broke off and its stuck
Ouch. Never had the experience, but there are loads of videos on how to get those out. Includes screwing in a bolt into the broken piece after you've removed the inner shaft.
Saben medida d la liga vvt
Sí. Desafortunadamente, no medí esto antes de instalarlo. Vi algunas dimensiones en este sitio. www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~oil~seal~control~valve~15832-raa-a01.html Enumeró las dimensiones como 1,0 x 0,9 x 0,2 pulgadas. Sin embargo, asegúrese de verificar si este es el tamaño real. Intenta medir el viejo también para comparar. El anterior será un poco menos.
mine broke wtf do i do now
There are a couple removal methods, you should see some videos here on TH-cam. Basically, remove the central shaft, screw in an appropriate size screw then use the extraction method shown in this video for leverage and removal. All the best!
It's a cheap part. Better to just replace to whole thing. That's what ill be doing.
That's also one way to go about it. Cheers!
I rather just buy the O ring...and not spend $120 and wait forever for it
Yep.
It’s the vvt solenoid g
Toyota typically calls this VVT (variable valve timing), Honda: VTC (Variable timing control).
You did not change the O ring. You said to use a screwdriver but you did not. This would not be a good idea anyhow!! A pick with a blunted tip would be a lot better.
Well, I did change the o-ring off camera. Remember I showed the replacement part at the beginning of the video. Changing it was to whole point to stop the leaks I was having at the time. I agree a blunt pick is a better tool.
Piyke DIYAutoWorksNG You should have changed the O ring on camera. Then we would know what to do and HOW to do it. "Changing it was the whole point..." .
Gee Honda.....why you have to make things hard? I thought y'all were better than that 😥
Lol. I don't think it's really hard, it's the fact that this part hardly needs removal so it just bonds and bakes in.
You mean this part on Toyota's can get stuck too?
Got you now.
@David Jones I have a 06 Accord coupe....when I first got it last August I felt like I hit the jackpot...I still kinda do since they hard to find. But since I had it I had to replace critical parts like CV axles and engine mounts. Next I have to replace the gasket on the VTEC actuator, the O ring on the VVT Selonoid, the power steering hose, the O2 sensor, give it a injection clean and the hardest one of all, in terms of BOTH parts and labor..the struts... At least, it don't cost an arm and a leg to fix it...
I've done all the repairs you listed on my 2003 save CV axles😂.
Speak UP!!!!!!!
Noted with thanks!
Just put some has in it Ann fire it up
Delete
I don't want to forget my days of little beginning 😁