First of all fix the trap if you can’t assemble that correctly you shouldn’t be making this video. Then put a double offset in to the trap adapter and you’re done have a nice day.
First of all, if you can't watch a video you shouldn't be commenting on it. how did you miss the thumbnail that showed the trap hooked up backward with the word “wrong” on it? I did it on purpose to show the confusion that DIY people face. And if you had paid attention near the end of the video you would have seen that I had connected it correctly and tested it thoroughly and it was working period you're not even an expert plumber you're a troll that doesn't have any information at all you're an uninformed person go comment elsewhere on topics that you actually know something about
Actually this is the second video you Have posted with the trap assembled improperly. Oh and I’m a master in Philadelphia. So no comment on not using a double offset?? What are you gonna do rape the customer by doing unnecessary work taking unnecessary time and making a bill inflated. looks like that’s what you’re doing.
I agree with you I am not a plumber but I do all my own plumbing and I look up the plumbing code to do it right the first time. Holy crap when I saw that p-trap I was like wtf is he doing omg.
Without a doubt the best part of these videos is the comments section, where you really learn a lot. Congratulations to the videomaker for transparently exposing himself to criticism and to all the expert commentators for indicating improvements 🙂
I have an antique buffet that I put sinks in. It's beautiful but they don't line up exactly. I don't know if I can do this, but thanks to your video, I may try. If it doesn't work, My only other option is to buy a new vanity which I don't want to do. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Thank you so much! This is the first time I’m changing a very old faucet and the pipes didn’t line up. Home Depot sold me the snappy trap, but it didn’t feel right to use as I was putting it together and then I found you to confirm my thoughts! I’m off to HD now to return it and get the proper supplies. The info you shared was invaluable, thank you!
Hi Lisa!!! You are beautiful!! I hope you fixed your problem!!! I might replace the vanity in my bathroom and I know I will encounter some plumbing problems.
Well, after struggling to replace a Form-N-Fit drain pipe under this kitchen sink I now see where I need to use a 45 degree adapter to make it fit. I've learned something new again today. I love how you describe in your videos exactly everything in an easy to understand way to do things right. Thanks for all you do for us d.i.y.selfers here.
I had a similar condition and used Oatey's "1-1/4 in. Form N Fit Flexible P-Trap". I've had this arrangement now for 13 years and there has been no cracks, leaks, or disconnects. I could have achieved the same result using multiple fittings like Jeff demonstrated, but this was my residence, not a client's. Now a short message to all those who have criticized Jeff on this channel. There's a reason why he has over half a million subscribers and his videos rack up millions of views each. When you (who criticize Jeff) achieve these same results, then you are qualified to judge Jeff. Until then, keep it cordial and offer your advice in a kind and considerate manner, like I have done.
Wow there is always the right way to do things instead of the fast and easy way, I almost install one of those stupid flexible adapters. Thank you Sir You just save me lots of future headaches
This saved my life haha I just bought a house and the downstairs sink had a way offset like this and the previous owners had one of those flexable plumbing pipes and its leaking so I was sitting there racking my brain trying to figure out how to fix this mess they had going on. Perfect solution. Still have to play around with it a bit because the offset is actually a bit farther than this but this definitely helped me out and gave me a couple ideas
It's 2024, I'm doing a remodel on my kitchen (on my own), and just came across this problem, except I'm using all 1.5" PVC, so I'll have to figure that out. Thanks to you, I now know how to fix it, of course, after I read all the drama comments haha!! Thank you!
Dr. Umar is a blessing with a hell of a lot of patience and his level of patience is displayed throughout this entire interview. Ole boy didn’t want to hear anything from the jump. He wanted to be combative and had a rebuttal for every statement from Umar even before the statement was given.
Thank you. You were very clear and walked through each step clear and concisely. This is going to be my first sink hook-up. Bought an off set sink and have to hook it up to the line coming out of the wall which is off to one side.
I had this problem with a new vanity. I love the solution. One suggestion: save time with video editing. I realize that it's not incumbent on the teacher to go thru extra steps but these are made for DIY folk like me and we will watch the video more than twice. THANK YOU!
I'll add one point. Whether you're using copper or abs or pvc, you have to de-burr any cuts you make. Give the inside a little bevel, or the rough edges are going to grab at anything that goes past.
Glad to see that you corrected the assembly of the P trap. In the first few minutes the J bend is assembled backwards, throwing off the vertical alignment. Later in the video the P trap is correctly assembled.
So helpful ❤thank you. My daughter had the accordion type of thing that just failed under her sink and I sent her your video on how that is not code. And this one on how to fix it properly. ❤ hopefully she will get it done right now. She’s had to correct a lot of issues with her old house and I’m in the same boat. We’ve both been learning a lot. I appreciate doing things correctly. It’s not only correct but safer and this home isn’t my forever home, I’m hoping to sell eventually and I want it to pass inspection. But in the meantime I want each fix to last and protect my home and my health.
Thank you. I appreciate how you explain your work. I love it when people tell you why. So many instructors just tell you how to do it but never explain why.
Thanks, Jeff finally I got around to correcting the guarantee cog flexible p trap. Our setup was a 90-degree elbow bath sink drain that was closer to the drain. A lot of haters but it works perfectly!
Very precise! Had a heck of a time with a remodel vanity at my house. Finally put 5 to 6 wraps of teflon tape on p trap connections to stop the leak. Glad you said run water for 10 minutes because a lot of plumbers assume it won't leak. Thats the reason so many cabinet bottoms rot out.
You really should not need to run the Teflon tape on there for the ptrap so . What I tell people to do is loosely attach all of the ptrap connections then tighten the nut on the output of ptrap first. Make Sure that this connection is satisfied first. Then and only then do you tighten the others.
Nice work! I’d like to share that those hand tight p trap fittings have been my nemesis on more than one sink. And I’ve learned that the fittings need to be plumb and level or they will leak. Appreciate you sharing that the tail piece extension should run well past the connection. I’d probably square and smooth off the end of that short stub of 1.5” PVC pipe added. Other than that, looked perfect to me. Thanks for sharing.
Nice work! Monitor how well it drains though, because on drain lines were not supposed to be using 90 degree elbows, 45 degree elbows are better, or even 1/8 bends.
@@nathanr.8556 Sure on drain lines, long sweep 90's are allowed, of course. But on the trap arm you're limited on the total degree of turns. I believe you can have up to, no more, than 90 degrees. Using a 45 or a 22.5 degree fitting is much better. Especially if you don't know if there's turns in wall before the trap arm meets the stack
Thank you for your video. My situation was closer to p trap but when trying get p trap to adapter it was short. Your possible solution#2 without the elbow. Just need a longer trap adapter.
Jeff, I was getting ready to order a quick fix adjustable p trap for my home-brew room. Good thing I like to play it safe and try to go by the rules. Unfortunately I have already installed a bunch of pipes already and I had no clue what I was doing. So my sink is crooked and not attached to the wall or floor, needless to say I have to go back and redo the project but this video is actually making sense to me and kinda building my confidence. Thanks! I needed this.
I thought the quality for a novice DIYer was spot on! Thank you so much for the thorough explanation and overviews as you progressed through the project! I successfully redid the plumbing on my new vanity using a 22.5 deg elbow.
I was expecting to watch a plumber... then while listening to him described things within the first couple minutes, i knew, man, this guy aint no plumber 😅
Summary of complaints about the video. Ignorant comments from people that did not watch the video or comments that you failed to show every single contingency or possibility or step in the process. For us normal viewers, the video was helpful. Thanks.
Great video. I'm a carpenter and I've always been amazed at my how my plumber friends had the ability to cut, fit and assemble complex pipe assemblies and then glue them all together. Last time I did it, like you, I worked to "dry-fit" everything before introducing any glue. Problem is that fittings are tapered and work fine to assemble when glued (and slippery", but calculating all the sizes required is very challenging when dry-fitting. To solve this, I used "KY" personal (water soluable - yup- that stuff :) ) to lube parts so I could bottom-out all parts and get all the lengths just right. I marked the orientation with a paint pen. Disassembled all, washed all the parts and glued and re-assembled the complex mix of pipe and fittings. Worked like a charm.
In CA, well over 20 years of occasional projects, never primed, light sand and glue, never had a separation or leak of any kind. Not to discount what u’ve suggested, will look into using primer and not sand anything next time thx.
@@dakotbeastj Yes, it is forbidding all every state's plumbing code, because it is not a "self scouring" p-trap, as the code calls out. Also insurance companies when they inspect your home will make you remove it.
@@jeffostroff oh wow. Got ya. I am currently in trade school for electric and plumbing, but haven't gotten to the plumbing side of things yet. Why do they sell them then? That's wild.
@@dakotbeastj It's against plumbing code, but not against the law. Some people have old installations, and stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc, are oblivious to codes, don't know don't care, but are happy to sell you these parts. Also, icemaker line manufacturers sell you the icemaker hos ekit with a saddle valve, which is also against plumbing code, and your building inspector will fail you. Another common violation is the icemaker outlet box for the wall with the valve, but if your valve has no hammer arrester on it, then it will fail inspection, yet Home Depot only stocks in-store the versions with no hammer arrestor.
Yes I’m an expert. License plumber and former plumbing instructor Honolulu Community College. • trap is on backwards. • your inside connector will impede flow. • should have used a fitting 45 and glue your trap adaptor on the end of the 45. • don’t need to test 10 minutes rather plug drain and fill fixture up to almost overflow and let it go if there is a leak it will manifest real quick. 🌺
I don't think you actually watched all of the video at the end we put the trap on correctly. If you had paid attention you would have seen that I said in the video we did not want to use that method of using the internal slip connection and we in fact went with an external connection the hub adapter. Also we filled it up and tested it and yes you do still need to test for 10 minutes because if there is any leak at the we're connection it doesn't manifest itself right away we've gone to lunch before and come back and found it dripping. We have seen license the plumbers install P traps that look fine and the next day it's dripping at the weir connection.
Is there a reason you couldn't he couldn't have just used a 90 degree 1 1/4 inch fitting? Come off the wall out, take a 90 degree horizontal turn, and connect it to P-trap (might have to shorten what he all ready has). Seems like it would have a lot easier and faster. Only downside is that it would eat up a bit of under cabinet space.
TIP: for anyone who has/uses plumber’s putty. If want it to stay “good” for very long time, take it out if that plastic container it comes in, w/ plastic lid; AND store it in a glass container with screw on top lid (a lid that has a seal is best). Doing this will make it last at least twice as long than leaving it in the container comes in, if not a year or two. Examples of glass containers I/we use: old pickle jars (washed, rinsed, and 100% dry) or relish, etc… Another good jar is a mason jar with the metal ring and gasket sealed cap that you’d use for canning (this is my preferred, but a pickle type jar so much easier to find, imo). Thx again for the video🙂
Beautiful! I tried to figure this out three months ago back-and-forth back-and-forth to the hardware store. No one told me about the 6 inch piece but I knew I needed something. So I’ve got it all dry fit in it just been sitting there just trying to make sure before I do all the rest of the stuff because I want to make sure it was right in there you come along thank you very much.!
Excellent video! The history was interesting, and a very good explanation of a p-trap! I've done little plumbing repairs. Last year, I had to replace the valve stems (like in a kitchen faucet), used for the washing machine in the garage. Bit of a mess! I now have to remove a broken food waste disposer. I decided to replace with a sink strainer. The plumbing is a mess, nothing for airflow, will check the roof in the am. Did not know about the slope and it is currently going the opposite direction! Need to get a small level. I will be viewing your 'Plumbing for Homeowners' videos! One question, is that see-thru piping a real thing that one could use or just for clarity of explanation in the video? Thanks much!
Nice to see you check the overflow. A friend bought a new house a few years ago, last year he had a "minor" bathroom flood. I noticed his overflow didn't work, ended up removing the drain, the original installer put in a solid drain, no opening for the overflow. Must have been a part left over from another job.
This is why when I remodel a bathroom, I typically remove everything just leaving a 1 1/2" waste line rough in stub out from the wall. Then I start all over again, building everything back up to modern code.
@@fjoc150 Yes it is, that was done to show the confusion that DIYer's sometimes go through to make these connections mate up. You'll notice by 13:25, the P-Trap is perfectly connected the correct direction.
do you not have a inner pipe cutter for a drill? I have done the whole slit method thing when in tight situations but there is plenty of room here to use a inner pipe cutter to cut the trap adapter off and go from there.
No, did not have one inner pipe cutter, only that small one which can't do what the real inner pipe cutter can do. I almost never have to work on the 4" pipe for toilet drains, although I repair a lot of toilet flanges, but never needed the internal cutter until now. So it was no big deal to make some slits and chisel them off. It did not take too long. I could have borrowed one, but this is a DIY video, so we wanted to use tools that a homeowner would likely already have or could easy get on the cheap.
@@jeffostroff understandable, those inner pipe cutters are always handy as hell to keep in a tool box. Every now and then you run across a fitting that has been glued on so long it doesn't like to come off nicely even with heat applied and end up cracking the pipe in the process of removing the fitting with the slit method. A nice informative video though :)
Did anyone else notice the P trap was connected properly in the end and fully tested? And that Bruce didn't really watch the video? He only looked at the thumbnail and made incorrect assumptions from there, thus making a complete fool out of himself.
@@jeffostroff he said it was backwards at the beginning he didn't mention anything about the end by I was also curious why you had it on backwards, was there a specific reason?
@@mbeniflah1 Yes, look at the thumbnail for the video. It was done to show the confusion DIYers face and what they might try to do to make it hood up anyway. You can see the red letters that say WRONG on the thumbnail.
Nice demo. When I test similar job I close stopper and fill to running out overflow, check for drip at black gasket. Then open stopper to flood drain and watch for any drips from trap drain pipes at all connections. This subjects all possible drain leak points to a total submersion for the time it takes sink to drain.
I have a t-shirt similar to yours. I wear it when someone comes over to borrow a tool or something else. It says, "If Tony Doesn't Have One, It Doesn't Exist." A couple of things I do: When I use an extension, I always allow for the distance that my extension will fit inside the fitting(s). This prevents me from cutting the extension too short. Before I test fit the PVC, I remove any burrs. After I have my pieces test fitted, I mark both to indicate how they need to line up. I also use slow-drying glue to adjust the pipes before the glue sets up.
Good golly, you just made a simple job 10X greater than necessary. There are 1 1/4 slip joint 45 elbows that would have done the job in 5 minutes. You didn't have to remove the old adapter and risk breaking the stub out, or building some convoluted mess of piping.
Lol Tom, good golly you're going to break plumbing code using your idea of the slip fitting. It is never allowed to reduce the interior diameter of a pipe so your idea would violate plumbing codes. This is not a convoluted mess it is a perfectly formed is glee formed premeasured precalculated length of a couple of different fittings. You make it sound like it's an all day job it took 20 minutes. And you also forgot to mention that it works and it solves the problem and it is all legal to plumbing code where is your idea would be a dismal failure a convoluted mess Of field plumbing code.
Nicely done. Just like how a plumber would have done it. Just ream the pipes though, hair and other debris will get caught on the burrs and will create blockages.
Around 2014 I replaced my kitchen sink and faucet. The new sink was deeper than the old one so I went to the hardware store looking for inspiration. Oh yeah, there was a dishwasher connected to it also. When I saw one of those flex fittings I said "ah ha", then my inner voice said wait a minute, pull up on that thing. You see that? That's likely to trap all manner of vile stuff in it. I'm glad my inner voice is smarter than I am. I went back home, recut the pipes and jammed everything up as tight as it would go and wound up maybe 1/32" - 1/16" off so I was able to make that work. I've thought about putting the dishwasher fitting in the cross over pipe from the other sink but I had both knees replaced at the end of 2020 so I haven't even looked at it to see if it's even possible to do that.
Lol nice video i like how you try and make your joints clean looks great most of my guys make a mess i was doing a job in LA and i decided to use clear primer and glue and the inspector made me rip the whole underground becuase he couldnt see the purple primer lol
I’m not a plumber but I am a professional home owner. Recently I replaced all my kitchen countertops, sink and faucet. I went from a double bowl sink to a single bowl with the drain being located now in the center versus off to the side. From the original PVC Marvel connector went a female to slip fitting, a wide sweep drain wye with a female slip threaded fitting for a clean out plug facing the cabinet front and then a a new Marvel connector slip fitting into the leg of the eye. This allowed my drain pipe P-trap to still exit rearward verse an angle which would create undue hindrance of storage space in sink cabinet. I used Oatey Fusion One Step PVC cement to keep the purple off my new work because I’m so vain. In doing so I now had an open bay on one half and room to install two new dovetailed drawers with bottom mount soft close slides in the other bay of the double door front 36” sink cabinet to step up my under counter game even more. My wife’s mind was blown when she saw her newly upgraded kitchen as the drawers were a welcome surprise for organizing and access.
Thanks for making this video! The previous home owner of my house hard piped everything under the sink and I guess the garbage disposal shaking made it leak. The piping is at an angle like what you video shows. I never saw a pipe saw like that, but being an electrician, I always used a plumb line string to cut pvc pipe.
Glad it helped! Also another reason for vibration other than the garbage disposal being off level, is sometimes people buy real cheap sinks that are made with only 23 gauge steel instead of 18 or 21 gauge steel. The thinner your sink, the more it will move and vibrate.
@@jonathanklopf7581 I forgot all about this video since I made this post 3 years ago. I have a few hacksaws, but just because someone has a hacksaw does not mean it is always the easiest way to cut in every situation.
I was excited to see the fitting removal on the old work. That part was edited out of this video. Do you have anther that shows your un-cementing technique?
No, sorry we were in a real rush, had about an hour to get it done before my friends were leaving town. Couple of scenes for whatever reason did not get recorded.
Those thin walled traps are all handy man specials!! All you needed was a street 45° p-trap with union and trap adapter and 1ft of PVC 1 1/2. That's the correct way
Thanks for checking the overflow on the sink. Mines been leaking for years when the water gets to be a couple inches deep but I couldnt figure out why and from where. Thanks a million.
Thank you so much. I have made several trips to him dpt for the exact info I learned watching this video & all I got was a bunch of extra pieces and I actually just needed the "trap adapter". But I learned everything I needed to know. So again, thank you.
I've been down this road before. Instead of cutting the original fitting off, just unscrew the nut and then screw a female adapter that is threaded on one side and has a slip fitting on the other. Then glue a street 45* fitting into this piece. Then glue a 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 male sink drain adapter to this piece. It is a lot easier than cutting several pieces of pipe and makes a neater job.
@@jeffostroff 1-1/2" female adapters are found there in pressure, DWV street and DWV slip as common stock. Just picked up a street female adapter to add a cleanout on the end of a wye, below my tub.
That's not a good solution. A trap adapter is not the same as a male threaded adapter. While the male threads on the trap adapter are technically same as pipe thread, there are fewer threads to engage plus the wall thickness is less. You can physically make the connection but it's not recommended. Puts too much stress on the male threads. If you want to do this with adapters, use slip joint adapters that fit same as the P-trap tubing. In this case, cut a small length (2-3 inches) off the plain end of a sink tailpiece and insert into trap adapter, then use a slip joint 45 degree fitting, then insert your P-trap outlet into the other side of the 45. Done. All big box stores and hardware stores carry that fitting. 25 year pipefitter here.
Thank you very much for this video. This was exactly the issue I was encountering without even knowing that this was an issue. Thank you for emphasizing the primer that I didn't even know existed.
Thanks for your video. It is very informative. I'm going to try using a similar method. Regarding using a Dremel that you discuss at 6:15, do you have a video of how it was used to remove the outside fitting? Thanks again.
No video of it, I just made slits in the coupler, not all the way through to the pipe. When you have a slit cut, you can use a screwdriver to pry it off the pipe.
Last time I had this problem I filled the pipe with sand and used a heat gun to bend the pvc to the shape I needed. I'm not sure if it's up to code, but it worked great. It also saved me a few pennies and a trip to the hardware store.
As long as the slip does not go inside the pipe and reduce the diamter you can use it. You can also cut down the size of a p-trap arm as well, we do this all the time with the p-trap arm
@@jeffostroff Thank you! The slip will sleeve over the elbow, the elbow will sleeve over the drain line. I cut the drain line down to 3 inches coming out of the wall, and that helped significantly as well.
Thanks, you made the process simple for a first time DIY’er like myself. It’s very doable. I just wish I saw your video sooner. I’m going to take back the flexible p-trap that I bought before I saw your video to Home Depot and get a regular P-trap.
Thats illegal you cant have mire then ONE slip joint on the horizontal. You people who think plumbing is just putting 90's on pipe to move or change location of a fixture or bathroom layout thats already plumbed have no clue. Learn some code plumbing.
@@johnnyglassman4517 You should learn spelling and grammar first before you start telling people about codes. It just doesn't look good when you talk about things like code but can't even spell.
Hi one think that is not clear to me is other than 90 i could not find right angle meaning is it 60 or 45 degree. between 2 fitting tht i want to join. can u pls advise any tricks or tips
you don't want to use a 90, you want a 90 bend, or even better trying combos of 45 or 22.5. Either way you should be able to make it with a combo of the right fitting and length of cut PVC pipe
thanks for the video, i had this same problem, new sink was way offset from the pipe coming out of the wall, so i am going to add the P trap just before entering the wall pipe, then add a couple elbows from the sink.. this helped me figure it out.
Jeff, you are awesome! I am subscribed and my bell is rung. You are my go-to-guy to fix everything. I watch with diligence, study the vocabulary, terms and everything I can. My husband thinks I have some kind of amazing plumbing skills...a plumbing whispers if you will. I'm not telling. I think I've picked up you're located in FL. I am too. Sure wished you lived closer to me though. Just wanted to send you and your team a huge thank you!
Hello. I have the Dalskar Ikea faucet. I need longer water lines than were OEM with the faucet. When I unscrew the water line from the faucet I don't recognize the small size of the male fitting. Do happen to know what this size this fitting is? - where might I be able to find a longer water line? I think it may be a 9/16” x 24UNEF if this is a thing, just guessing. And the other end would be the 3/8 female connection to the water shut off valve.(the Dalskar faucet came with a 24" line, I need 30" lines as my water shut-offs are near the floor.) thank you in advance!
There really is no way of telling I would try to bring it into home depot and they have different sized water lines there down the plumbing oil they hang on a display many sizes from 12" all the way up to 36" and I would just try to see which one of those fits into it and not even try to guess.
Yes, I thought I was seeing it backwards. (But being still a newbie, I had to search to see if someone said something). Would be nice to see a Note stating the error or some words overlaying the scene***Did you Notice something wrong here?
Please don't use silicon caulk to seal your drain pipes people! I had to pull about 1/4 tube of that off the drains under my kitchen sink when I purchased my house, and they all sealed just fine after being cleaned off and put back together. No leaking from those pipes for 6 years.
@@americanfirst913 Did you not see we do have the P-Trap installed correctly positioned when we put all the part together starting at 13:25? We do have our P-trap installed correctly, fully tested, and this will pass any plumbing inspection. How is it that you say it's installed backwards?
You probably have a clog somewhere between your kitchen sink and the street outside your house where it dumps into the sewer system. This is making the water back up, and it has to go somewhere, so it goes back up to the basement drain. Most often this can be snaked out. But if that fails, I've seen where tree roots have burst through pipes and are clogging the pipe now. Usually the plumbers need to snake a camera down the drain pipe to confirm it. This happened at our friend's house lasted year. hopefully yours is just a simple clog that can be snaked easily with their machine. Make sure you don't ever pour chicken fat down your sink drain, I try to avoid putting any solid foods, or anything oily or buttery that can congeal at room temperature or colder.
Thanks for posting! Can you please tell me the maximum distance that the drain pipe can run horizontally (left to right) from the p-trap to the stubout? I have a tiny kitchen and I would like to move my sink to the right 18". Could I use this method?
Universal Plumbing Code says the total developed length of all tailpieces, arms and fittings connecting the drain to the p-trap must be 24 inches or less.
The trap isn't backwards. It will still work and pass code. Those traps are designed for the 2-4 inches your allowed. It's just a better job and less effort to install it the correct way
We did install it correctly I don't know why everybody keeps coming in here and saying it's backwards 13:25 Take a look at that is a text book P trap install it is not backwards it is not non standard it is as perfect as it gets. And it has been tested thoroughly a full sink has been through it, they have been using it now for 2 years and have not had a problem with it.
@@zenunmustafa4381 I thought the same, everyone is confused because the thumbnail image and start of this video shows it incorrect, but it’s installed properly correct way at the end
Yeah...that’s what I was thinking. First, flip the trap so the tail goes into the correct part of the trap. Next, swing the trap elbow so it faces the left side of the cabinet. Now put a slip elbow on and run it to the trap adapter. Easy..is that what you are saying?
Tenth Dimension LOL...how to make an easy job difficult and do it backwards. I love how the guy who did the video gets his undies in a bunch. Even the gal at Home Depot gets it right. A couple months back I was on a job with the p trap installed backwards and I needed a reducing slip washer and I showed her a picture and she says, “the p-trap is backward.” I said, “yeah, it’s leaking so I’m going to reverse it.” Btw...when they’re backwards and hooked to a food disposal grinder, the rate of failure increases.
The thumbnail is what got me to click on the video. I was actually looking for videos to see if an inverted p-trap actually works. My supervisor inverted a P-trap because the drain coming out of the wall in a kitchen was too high for the p-trap.
The problem here is your trap is connected to the waste arm wrong. To start with. You also wrongly reduced the inside of that drain, which would fail a real inspection. You corrected the final assembly. Nice job
According to the uniform plumbing code and the international plumbing code by inserting that connector you reduced the drain size from 1 1/2" to around an 1 1/4" then back you have reduced the drain size and it is illegal according to code. That would have failed an inspection. You can increase it but not decrease it.
@@1985Satisfaction Lol I knew we wouldn't hear back from you in regards to the plumbing codes that I asked you to point out where we were wrong get the exact page paragraph number centra. There is nothing wrong with the final product displayed in this video you're just one of those hand wavers that doesn't really know what hes talking about otherwise you would've provided the information already you did exactly as I predicted.
The code you are looking for is in the upc chapter three paragraph 310.5 under obstruction of flow which also elludes to chapter three paragraph 301.2. Unfortunately I can't give you a page as I had to look up the chapter on the epub of the 2018 upc on iapmo's website...hope you enjoy my "hard research" grin :D
Speaking of making the video longer. I’m sorry but imho this video should of been much shorter. I’m only still watching to see if you use that wire to cut with. Just curious.
Doug, the trap arm is slopes DOWN to the waste pipe at the wall by 1/4"/foot. Thus, with < 12" from the wall to the downward curve of the trap arm, you should see 1/8" to 1/4" sloping down to the wall. Most houses have that waste line coming out of the wall 100% horizontal, and it still drains OK. One thing to keep in mind is your trap "weir", which is where the water level tops off inside the trap pipe, making that U-shaped body of water that keeps sewer gases out of your sink drain. The Weir is right inside the curved part of the pipe, that WEIR must be ABOVE the vent connection inside the wall, otherwise the air from the vent won't make it back to the weir, you won't have air behind water, and you could cause a siphon effect, which could drain your P-trap of water, and there goes your protection from sewer gasses. Always make sure your vent connection in the wall NEVER goes below the water line (Weir) inside your trap. How do you see where that water level is in the Weir? It's where the P-Trap arm curves downward from the waste pipe, and it's the bottom edge of that pipe, at the curve. The inspector measures from the floor to the bottom of the P-trap arm pipe at the curve near the trap connection where the trap weir is located. Next they measure from floor to top of the waste pipe at the vent connection, accounting for thickness of pipe wall. If the difference between those 2 measurements is less than the diameter of the pipe, no worries of a siphon happening and your permit is signs and approved.
Just make sure that the top of the drain pipe where it connects to the vent inside the wall is at or above the bottom of the P-trap drain arm at the trap connection, and you will be OK.
OK, Very impressive, however you forgot One very important step. when finished with everything, you should not only run the water and check for leaks, but filling the sink pass the over-flow holes in sink to 1)check to see if popup assembly doesn't leak and 2)when releasing water, the pipes are filled with water don't leak either. A small stream of water will not ensure a true and lasting test. Nice Video's, we need more out there like yourself. BTW, I was a master Plumber, for over 20 years. Nice job.
Vincent, We DID show the test starting at 14:08, I guess you didn't see it. We talked about how to do the test, but in the interest of saving time from the video getting too long we did not show the actual water filling up or draining out, but you can see us mentioning you have to do the overflow test.
"Dirty arms" dont have pitch. I dont believe its required. Because with a brass commercial trap for example, ideally if you put it in right there will be very little/no pitch...
@@bradhaenitsch1145 gluing a smaller pipe fitting into a larger fitting ever so small still lets the drain have a start of a plug over time. tell me what type of piping was used before pvc or abs pipe? steel or cast iron pipe, the steel was threaded. yes you can buy the product and yes it can work for some time but you never reduce a plumbing drain and than bring it back to size, just ask any plumbing inspector.
I prefer to use this: homedepot.sjv.io/213Bq7 Fernco/Mission connector, just make sure it is the right size for your copper pipe coming out of the wall, as it must clamp to it.
I have the sink and little kitchen in the garage underneath the sink I have the same problem the zigzag pipping from 1997 I have change those piping about 10 time by the handyman and that’s never get permanent fix always start leaking in 3 or 4 months now I see your video and I will try by my self to fix I Never did it before now thanks for your beautiful video I m gonna try to fix it and will let you know my brother thanks I live in Florida
What is that pipe inside the outlet pipe at 6:15? Another blind leading the blind video. That extra pipe needs to be removed. It will restrict water draining. NOBODY uses 1 1/4 P-Traps anymore. No need for a 1 1/4 trap adapter.
You must be in IL, when you say nobody uses 1 1/4 traps anymore you sound foolish to the rest of the country. Most other states including Florida use 1 1/4" P-traps in the bathroom, and 1 1/2" P-traps in the kitchen. Just look at the bathroom sinks, the drain opening are all 1 1/4". All bathroom faucets with drains are 1 1/4". Also yes that extra pipe was some idiotic thing dune by the builder, who did many other stupid and illegal things in that house, it was originally the builder's own house, built by favors from idiot subcontractors.
@@jeffostroff In California, Idaho, NH, Connecticut, and many other states, 1 1/4 inch traps are rare in modern homes. If the home is built in the 60s or before, 1 1/4 inch traps were more common but easily updated to 1 1/2. The code (IPC) does not specify 1 1/4 inch. There is no reason to install 1 1/4 drains and traps when 1 1/2 is the same price and more readily available. Pop-ups have 1 1/4 inch tailpieces but a reducing slip washer at the pop-up tail piece works fine. My wholesale suppliers have a very limited stock of 1 1/4 inch DWV. Home Depot has limited selection. The 1 1/2 inch P-Traps I buy have both 1 1/2 inch and 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 reducing washers in every set. I never saw a builder install 1 1/4 inch P-Trap unless it was chrome/brass from the early 60s or before. Many back to the 50s or older had a 1 1/2 inch chrome P-Trap that was necked down to 1 1/4 inch for the pop-up connection.
First of all fix the trap if you can’t assemble that correctly you shouldn’t be making this video. Then put a double offset in to the trap adapter and you’re done have a nice day.
First of all, if you can't watch a video you shouldn't be commenting on it. how did you miss the thumbnail that showed the trap hooked up backward with the word “wrong” on it? I did it on purpose to show the confusion that DIY people face. And if you had paid attention near the end of the video you would have seen that I had connected it correctly and tested it thoroughly and it was working period you're not even an expert plumber you're a troll that doesn't have any information at all you're an uninformed person go comment elsewhere on topics that you actually know something about
Actually this is the second video you Have posted with the trap assembled improperly. Oh and I’m a master in Philadelphia. So no comment on not using a double offset?? What are you gonna do rape the customer by doing unnecessary work taking unnecessary time and making a bill inflated. looks like that’s what you’re doing.
I agree with you I am not a plumber but I do all my own plumbing and I look up the plumbing code to do it right the first time. Holy crap when I saw that p-trap I was like wtf is he doing omg.
@@jeffostroff I don't know... You started the video and said nothing about it... 😄
@@mattgomez1585 But yet you didn't look at 13:25 In the video that's why you are so confused
Without a doubt the best part of these videos is the comments section, where you really learn a lot. Congratulations to the videomaker for transparently exposing himself to criticism and to all the expert commentators for indicating improvements 🙂
I have an antique buffet that I put sinks in. It's beautiful but they don't line up exactly. I don't know if I can do this, but thanks to your video, I may try. If it doesn't work, My only other option is to buy a new vanity which I don't want to do. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
Thank you so much! This is the first time I’m changing a very old faucet and the pipes didn’t line up. Home Depot sold me the snappy trap, but it didn’t feel right to use as I was putting it together and then I found you to confirm my thoughts! I’m off to HD now to return it and get the proper supplies. The info you shared was invaluable, thank you!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching Lisa
Hi Lisa!!! You are beautiful!! I hope you fixed your problem!!! I might replace the vanity in my bathroom and I know I will encounter some plumbing problems.
Well, after struggling to replace a Form-N-Fit drain pipe under this kitchen sink I now see where I need to use a 45 degree adapter to make it fit. I've learned something new again today. I love how you describe in your videos exactly everything in an easy to understand way to do things right. Thanks for all you do for us d.i.y.selfers here.
Glad I could help
I had a similar condition and used Oatey's "1-1/4 in. Form N Fit Flexible P-Trap". I've had this arrangement now for 13 years and there has been no cracks, leaks, or disconnects. I could have achieved the same result using multiple fittings like Jeff demonstrated, but this was my residence, not a client's.
Now a short message to all those who have criticized Jeff on this channel. There's a reason why he has over half a million subscribers and his videos rack up millions of views each. When you (who criticize Jeff) achieve these same results, then you are qualified to judge Jeff. Until then, keep it cordial and offer your advice in a kind and considerate manner, like I have done.
Wow there is always the right way to do things instead of the fast and easy way, I almost install one of those stupid flexible adapters.
Thank you Sir You just save me lots of future headaches
Awesome Sal, glad we saved you!
This saved my life haha I just bought a house and the downstairs sink had a way offset like this and the previous owners had one of those flexable plumbing pipes and its leaking so I was sitting there racking my brain trying to figure out how to fix this mess they had going on. Perfect solution. Still have to play around with it a bit because the offset is actually a bit farther than this but this definitely helped me out and gave me a couple ideas
I hope it works out for you Barry!
Thank you
🤔🧠🧠🧠🤣🤣🤣😎👍🍺
It's 2024, I'm doing a remodel on my kitchen (on my own), and just came across this problem, except I'm using all 1.5" PVC, so I'll have to figure that out. Thanks to you, I now know how to fix it, of course, after I read all the drama comments haha!! Thank you!
Dr. Umar is a blessing with a hell of a lot of patience and his level of patience is displayed throughout this entire interview. Ole boy didn’t want to hear anything from the jump. He wanted to be combative and had a rebuttal for every statement from Umar even before the statement was given.
Think u got the wrong video buddy
Thank you. You were very clear and walked through each step clear and concisely. This is going to be my first sink hook-up. Bought an off set sink and have to hook it up to the line coming out of the wall which is off to one side.
You are so welcome!
Hi Rene!!! You are beautiful!! I hope you fixed your problems!!!
Thank you. Got it all done
Looks and works great.
Now, for some fun, plump a double-drain sink.
I had this problem with a new vanity. I love the solution. One suggestion: save time with video editing. I realize that it's not incumbent on the teacher to go thru extra steps but these are made for DIY folk like me and we will watch the video more than twice. THANK YOU!
Thanks for the suggestion!
I'll add one point. Whether you're using copper or abs or pvc, you have to de-burr any cuts you make. Give the inside a little bevel, or the rough edges are going to grab at anything that goes past.
That is correct
It will also scrape away your adhesive upon installation.
And rough it up with sandpaper
@jasebamber7899 The last time I used my 'hands,' I made a nice blood donation to the DIY God.
@@jeffostroff but you're not showing that happen...
Glad to see that you corrected the assembly of the P trap. In the first few minutes the
J bend is assembled backwards, throwing off the vertical alignment. Later in the video the P trap is correctly assembled.
I did it to show confusion of many DIYers
So helpful ❤thank you. My daughter had the accordion type of thing that just failed under her sink and I sent her your video on how that is not code. And this one on how to fix it properly. ❤ hopefully she will get it done right now. She’s had to correct a lot of issues with her old house and I’m in the same boat. We’ve both been learning a lot. I appreciate doing things correctly. It’s not only correct but safer and this home isn’t my forever home, I’m hoping to sell eventually and I want it to pass inspection. But in the meantime I want each fix to last and protect my home and my health.
Paper towel test saved me a mess Jeff. Good pace of instructions 👌. I recommend these videos. Thanks
Great to hear!
Thank you. I appreciate how you explain your work. I love it when people tell you why. So many instructors just tell you how to do it but never explain why.
You are so welcome!
That is not a 45° piece that’s a 22 1/2 “elbow “.
Does that look like a 45° bend? Not !!
I am a complete novice and I was very impressed with your knowledge and now I need to try to do this myself. I think I can. I will let you know.
Awesome, it should be pretty easy for you
Thanks, Jeff finally I got around to correcting the guarantee cog flexible p trap. Our setup was a 90-degree elbow bath sink drain that was closer to the drain. A lot of haters but it works perfectly!
Very precise! Had a heck of a time with a remodel vanity at my house. Finally put 5 to 6 wraps of teflon tape on p trap connections to stop the leak. Glad you said run water for 10 minutes because a lot of plumbers assume it won't leak. Thats the reason so many cabinet bottoms rot out.
You really should not need to run the Teflon tape on there for the ptrap so . What I tell people to do is loosely attach all of the ptrap connections then tighten the nut on the output of ptrap first. Make Sure that this connection is satisfied first. Then and only then do you tighten the others.
That and the fact that they use particle board for cabinet construction. Materials that can’t get wet used under the sink 🙄
I also wholly fill the sink with water for the REAL test.
@@outlet6989going to do that tomorrow.
Nice work! I’d like to share that those hand tight p trap fittings have been my nemesis on more than one sink. And I’ve learned that the fittings need to be plumb and level or they will leak. Appreciate you sharing that the tail piece extension should run well past the connection. I’d probably square and smooth off the end of that short stub of 1.5” PVC pipe added. Other than that, looked perfect to me. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing Mark!
One major problem is that many DIYers put the gaskets on the pipe backward.
Thank you, I had to use a 90° connector and some extra pvc but I got it to work thanks to this video.
Nice work! Monitor how well it drains though, because on drain lines were not supposed to be using 90 degree elbows, 45 degree elbows are better, or even 1/8 bends.
@@jeffostroff long sweep 90s are perfectly legal turned horizontally, genius
@@nathanr.8556 Sure on drain lines, long sweep 90's are allowed, of course. But on the trap arm you're limited on the total degree of turns. I believe you can have up to, no more, than 90 degrees. Using a 45 or a 22.5 degree fitting is much better. Especially if you don't know if there's turns in wall before the trap arm meets the stack
Thanks!
Thank you for your video. My situation was closer to p trap but when trying get p trap to adapter it was short. Your possible solution#2 without the elbow. Just need a longer trap adapter.
Thanks so much for the love!
Jeff, I was getting ready to order a quick fix adjustable p trap for my home-brew room. Good thing I like to play it safe and try to go by the rules. Unfortunately I have already installed a bunch of pipes already and I had no clue what I was doing. So my sink is crooked and not attached to the wall or floor, needless to say I have to go back and redo the project but this video is actually making sense to me and kinda building my confidence. Thanks! I needed this.
Awesome glad to help
I have this exact problem right now. Thank you for this video!!! Very well done, sir! 👊🏾😎
Glad it helped
I thought the quality for a novice DIYer was spot on! Thank you so much for the thorough explanation and overviews as you progressed through the project! I successfully redid the plumbing on my new vanity using a 22.5 deg elbow.
I was expecting to watch a plumber... then while listening to him described things within the first couple minutes, i knew, man, this guy aint no plumber 😅
I walked outside, cut off an old radiator hose and used that. It fits perfectly.
did it retain the P-trap shape OK?
Thanks so much! Had a sewer drain offset pretty far from the sink drain, this saved me from janky accordion style bs flexible hose!
Glad it helped!
Summary of complaints about the video. Ignorant comments from people that did not watch the video or comments that you failed to show every single contingency or possibility or step in the process.
For us normal viewers, the video was helpful. Thanks.
Great video. I'm a carpenter and I've always been amazed at my how my plumber friends had the ability to cut, fit and assemble complex pipe assemblies and then glue them all together. Last time I did it, like you, I worked to "dry-fit" everything before introducing any glue. Problem is that fittings are tapered and work fine to assemble when glued (and slippery", but calculating all the sizes required is very challenging when dry-fitting. To solve this, I used "KY" personal (water soluable - yup- that stuff :) ) to lube parts so I could bottom-out all parts and get all the lengths just right. I marked the orientation with a paint pen. Disassembled all, washed all the parts and glued and re-assembled the complex mix of pipe and fittings. Worked like a charm.
In CA, well over 20 years of occasional projects, never primed, light sand and glue, never had a separation or leak of any kind. Not to discount what u’ve suggested, will look into using primer and not sand anything next time thx.
In CA, I believe you folks use the black ABS, and on that they use a yellow one step primer/glue
Thank you! I removed the accordion plumbing and used this solution! Marvelous!
Awesome now you got smooth running water
@@jeffostroff is there something wrong with accordion plumbing?
@@dakotbeastj Yes, it is forbidding all every state's plumbing code, because it is not a "self scouring" p-trap, as the code calls out. Also insurance companies when they inspect your home will make you remove it.
@@jeffostroff oh wow. Got ya. I am currently in trade school for electric and plumbing, but haven't gotten to the plumbing side of things yet. Why do they sell them then? That's wild.
@@dakotbeastj It's against plumbing code, but not against the law. Some people have old installations, and stores like Home Depot, Lowes, etc, are oblivious to codes, don't know don't care, but are happy to sell you these parts. Also, icemaker line manufacturers sell you the icemaker hos ekit with a saddle valve, which is also against plumbing code, and your building inspector will fail you. Another common violation is the icemaker outlet box for the wall with the valve, but if your valve has no hammer arrester on it, then it will fail inspection, yet Home Depot only stocks in-store the versions with no hammer arrestor.
Yes I’m an expert. License plumber and former plumbing instructor Honolulu Community College.
• trap is on backwards.
• your inside connector will impede flow.
• should have used a fitting 45 and glue your trap adaptor on the end of the 45.
• don’t need to test 10 minutes rather plug drain and fill fixture up to almost overflow and let it go if there is a leak it will manifest real quick. 🌺
I don't think you actually watched all of the video at the end we put the trap on correctly. If you had paid attention you would have seen that I said in the video we did not want to use that method of using the internal slip connection and we in fact went with an external connection the hub adapter. Also we filled it up and tested it and yes you do still need to test for 10 minutes because if there is any leak at the we're connection it doesn't manifest itself right away we've gone to lunch before and come back and found it dripping. We have seen license the plumbers install P traps that look fine and the next day it's dripping at the weir connection.
All the ones on here with negative comments should do a video on how it should be done then. 😊
Very nice video....thanks for posting. I hate "plastic pipes" and compression washers, but they're a big part of life these days.
Is there a reason you couldn't he couldn't have just used a 90 degree 1 1/4 inch fitting? Come off the wall out, take a 90 degree horizontal turn, and connect it to P-trap (might have to shorten what he all ready has). Seems like it would have a lot easier and faster. Only downside is that it would eat up a bit of under cabinet space.
Stuck at home with this during our coronovirus remodel project and this was wonderfully helpful. Thank you!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching Jayme
Same haha
TIP: for anyone who has/uses plumber’s putty. If want it to stay “good” for very long time, take it out if that plastic container it comes in, w/ plastic lid; AND store it in a glass container with screw on top lid (a lid that has a seal is best). Doing this will make it last at least twice as long than leaving it in the container comes in, if not a year or two. Examples of glass containers I/we use: old pickle jars (washed, rinsed, and 100% dry) or relish, etc… Another good jar is a mason jar with the metal ring and gasket sealed cap that you’d use for canning (this is my preferred, but a pickle type jar so much easier to find, imo).
Thx again for the video🙂
Great idea!
Wonderful video, thanks for explaining how to do it professionally
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching David
Beautiful! I tried to figure this out three months ago back-and-forth back-and-forth to the hardware store. No one told me about the 6 inch piece but I knew I needed something. So I’ve got it all dry fit in it just been sitting there just trying to make sure before I do all the rest of the stuff because I want to make sure it was right in there you come along thank you very much.!
You are welcome!
I never buy just one fitting or piece of pipe. I purchase one, maybe two, extras. This saves me trips to the store.
Excellent video! The history was interesting, and a very good explanation of a p-trap! I've done little plumbing repairs. Last year, I had to replace the valve stems (like in a kitchen faucet), used for the washing machine in the garage. Bit of a mess! I now have to remove a broken food waste disposer. I decided to replace with a sink strainer. The plumbing is a mess, nothing for airflow, will check the roof in the am. Did not know about the slope and it is currently going the opposite direction! Need to get a small level. I will be viewing your 'Plumbing for Homeowners' videos! One question, is that see-thru piping a real thing that one could use or just for clarity of explanation in the video? Thanks much!
Nice to see you check the overflow. A friend bought a new house a few years ago, last year he had a "minor" bathroom flood. I noticed his overflow didn't work, ended up removing the drain, the original installer put in a solid drain, no opening for the overflow. Must have been a part left over from another job.
This is why when I remodel a bathroom, I typically remove everything just leaving a 1 1/2" waste line rough in stub out from the wall. Then I start all over again, building everything back up to modern code.
At beginning of video. The trap is backwards
@@fjoc150 Yes it is, that was done to show the confusion that DIYer's sometimes go through to make these connections mate up. You'll notice by 13:25, the P-Trap is perfectly connected the correct direction.
do you not have a inner pipe cutter for a drill? I have done the whole slit method thing when in tight situations but there is plenty of room here to use a inner pipe cutter to cut the trap adapter off and go from there.
No, did not have one inner pipe cutter, only that small one which can't do what the real inner pipe cutter can do. I almost never have to work on the 4" pipe for toilet drains, although I repair a lot of toilet flanges, but never needed the internal cutter until now. So it was no big deal to make some slits and chisel them off. It did not take too long. I could have borrowed one, but this is a DIY video, so we wanted to use tools that a homeowner would likely already have or could easy get on the cheap.
@@jeffostroff understandable, those inner pipe cutters are always handy as hell to keep in a tool box. Every now and then you run across a fitting that has been glued on so long it doesn't like to come off nicely even with heat applied and end up cracking the pipe in the process of removing the fitting with the slit method. A nice informative video though :)
Did anyone else notice the p-trap was backwards at the beginning?
Did anyone else notice the P trap was connected properly in the end and fully tested? And that Bruce didn't really watch the video? He only looked at the thumbnail and made incorrect assumptions from there, thus making a complete fool out of himself.
@@jeffostroff he said it was backwards at the beginning he didn't mention anything about the end by I was also curious why you had it on backwards, was there a specific reason?
@@mbeniflah1 Yes, look at the thumbnail for the video. It was done to show the confusion DIYers face and what they might try to do to make it hood up anyway. You can see the red letters that say WRONG on the thumbnail.
Bruce Coleman first thing I noticed.
Bruce Coleman this
Guy
Has to be kidding
Me.. what a nob... lmao he doesn’t even u deter and it
Nice demo. When I test similar job I close stopper and fill to running out overflow, check for drip at black gasket. Then open stopper to flood drain and watch for any drips from trap drain pipes at all connections. This subjects all possible drain leak points to a total submersion for the time it takes sink to drain.
Good test Dog man!
I have a t-shirt similar to yours. I wear it when someone comes over to borrow a tool or something else. It says, "If Tony Doesn't Have One, It Doesn't Exist." A couple of things I do: When I use an extension, I always allow for the distance that my extension will fit inside the fitting(s). This prevents me from cutting the extension too short. Before I test fit the PVC, I remove any burrs. After I have my pieces test fitted, I mark both to indicate how they need to line up. I also use slow-drying glue to adjust the pipes before the glue sets up.
Good golly, you just made a simple job 10X greater than necessary. There are 1 1/4 slip joint 45 elbows that would have done the job in 5 minutes. You didn't have to remove the old adapter and risk breaking the stub out, or building some convoluted mess of piping.
Thank you-you just made my life 100% easier as I am tackling a similar project right now. Thanks again!
Lol Tom, good golly you're going to break plumbing code using your idea of the slip fitting. It is never allowed to reduce the interior diameter of a pipe so your idea would violate plumbing codes. This is not a convoluted mess it is a perfectly formed is glee formed premeasured precalculated length of a couple of different fittings. You make it sound like it's an all day job it took 20 minutes. And you also forgot to mention that it works and it solves the problem and it is all legal to plumbing code where is your idea would be a dismal failure a convoluted mess Of field plumbing code.
@@jeffostroff there is nothing against code with a trap offset and most times you don't have that much pipe outside the wall
Obviously you needed to make up time for your video.... you really make simple things difficult
@R S Dang and I knew I forgot the duct tape now it's definitely not city approved
I have read the directions on both cans and you should apply cement to the joints when the primer is still wet.
Just as a test prime a fittting and a piece of pipe let it sit a month , then glue ! Test with air. Will hold just the same
Nicely done. Just like how a plumber would have done it.
Just ream the pipes though, hair and other debris will get caught on the burrs and will create blockages.
Yes, picked up a new Risdgid PVC pipe reamer, could not find ours on that day!
smartest man alive!! I mean it!!!!
safes me all the time
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Around 2014 I replaced my kitchen sink and faucet. The new sink was deeper than the old one so I went to the hardware store looking for inspiration. Oh yeah, there was a dishwasher connected to it also. When I saw one of those flex fittings I said "ah ha", then my inner voice said wait a minute, pull up on that thing. You see that? That's likely to trap all manner of vile stuff in it. I'm glad my inner voice is smarter than I am. I went back home, recut the pipes and jammed everything up as tight as it would go and wound up maybe 1/32" - 1/16" off so I was able to make that work. I've thought about putting the dishwasher fitting in the cross over pipe from the other sink but I had both knees replaced at the end of 2020 so I haven't even looked at it to see if it's even possible to do that.
Yes it sucks wanting to do certain tasks and our backs and knees say nope! Maybe you can find a handyman who knows their stuff.
This is where my LEGO learning in my childhood will come exceptionally handy.
And the Erector Set building kit also. I had one of those as a kid.
Where u get that vanity? Just what I’m looking for.
We got that from JK Cabinets, they have them in several major cities
Lol nice video i like how you try and make your joints clean looks great most of my guys make a mess i was doing a job in LA and i decided to use clear primer and glue and the inspector made me rip the whole underground becuase he couldnt see the purple primer lol
Oh yes the frustration of dealing with inspectors sometimes they can be real bears.
Yea some
Inspectors
Will
Do that with
Clear primer, always use purple
From
First
To
Last
Rough.. on fixtures use
Clear but be careful..
UPC requires the use of purple primer for identification. Every licensed plumber knows this
@I C Ca, all pvc, including venting for tankless w/h , furnaces, dwv. Purple primer
Purple primer has been code for over 10 years
I’m not a plumber but I am a professional home owner. Recently I replaced all my kitchen countertops, sink and faucet. I went from a double bowl sink to a single bowl with the drain being located now in the center versus off to the side. From the original PVC Marvel connector went a female to slip fitting, a wide sweep drain wye with a female slip threaded fitting for a clean out plug facing the cabinet front and then a a new Marvel connector slip fitting into the leg of the eye. This allowed my drain pipe P-trap to still exit rearward verse an angle which would create undue hindrance of storage space in sink cabinet.
I used Oatey Fusion One Step PVC cement to keep the purple off my new work because I’m so vain. In doing so I now had an open bay on one half and room to install two new dovetailed drawers with bottom mount soft close slides in the other bay of the double door front 36” sink cabinet to step up my under counter game even more. My wife’s mind was blown when she saw her newly upgraded kitchen as the drawers were a welcome surprise for organizing and access.
That would be a cool video!
Thanks for making this video! The previous home owner of my house hard piped everything under the sink and I guess the garbage disposal shaking made it leak. The piping is at an angle like what you video shows. I never saw a pipe saw like that, but being an electrician, I always used a plumb line string to cut pvc pipe.
Glad it helped! Also another reason for vibration other than the garbage disposal being off level, is sometimes people buy real cheap sinks that are made with only 23 gauge steel instead of 18 or 21 gauge steel. The thinner your sink, the more it will move and vibrate.
I always use a pipe cutter tool. The right tool for the right job.
you don't have a hacksaw?
@@jonathanklopf7581 I forgot all about this video since I made this post 3 years ago. I have a few hacksaws, but just because someone has a hacksaw does not mean it is always the easiest way to cut in every situation.
I was excited to see the fitting removal on the old work. That part was edited out of this video. Do you have anther that shows your un-cementing technique?
No, sorry we were in a real rush, had about an hour to get it done before my friends were leaving town. Couple of scenes for whatever reason did not get recorded.
Yeah - I'd like to see that too.
You just cut a couple slits in the fitting, just down to the pipe, and then pry the fitting off with a screwdriver or big adjustable pliers.
Those thin walled traps are all handy man specials!! All you needed was a street 45° p-trap with union and trap adapter and 1ft of PVC 1 1/2. That's the correct way
You better put the 45 in just slightly up -not “declined “ -unless you think water can flow uphill.
Thanks for checking the overflow on the sink. Mines been leaking for years when the water gets to be a couple inches deep but I couldnt figure out why and from where. Thanks a million.
Thank you so much. I have made several trips to him dpt for the exact info I learned watching this video & all I got was a bunch of extra pieces and I actually just needed the "trap adapter". But I learned everything I needed to know. So again, thank you.
Glad it was helpful Marsha!
Did you remove the cut off piece of thin wall 1-1/4” that was left in the pipe when you removed the old trap adapter?
We removed all that we could get out of there. Because you don't ever want to reduce the width of your waste pipe.
I was wondering about that also. It should have been easy to remove as i think it never would have been glued. Just wondering
@@jeffostroff why? Just reducing by 1/4". It is a bathroom sink mostly for brushing teeth & shaving.
That was a huge help. Thank you for adding the comments about the primer. I'm not a plumber and learning on my fixer upper home.
Glad to help out!
I've been down this road before. Instead of cutting the original fitting off, just unscrew the nut and then screw a female adapter that is threaded on one side and has a slip fitting on the other. Then glue a street 45* fitting into this piece. Then glue a 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 male sink drain adapter to this piece. It is a lot easier than cutting several pieces of pipe and makes a neater job.
Will look into that on the next one. Have to see if HD carries the female part, I doubt it.
@@jeffostroff 1-1/2" female adapters are found there in pressure, DWV street and DWV slip as common stock. Just picked up a street female adapter to add a cleanout on the end of a wye, below my tub.
@BOM Productions, I thought the exact same thing!
Yeah, I like that solution too.
That's not a good solution. A trap adapter is not the same as a male threaded adapter. While the male threads on the trap adapter are technically same as pipe thread, there are fewer threads to engage plus the wall thickness is less. You can physically make the connection but it's not recommended. Puts too much stress on the male threads. If you want to do this with adapters, use slip joint adapters that fit same as the P-trap tubing. In this case, cut a small length (2-3 inches) off the plain end of a sink tailpiece and insert into trap adapter, then use a slip joint 45 degree fitting, then insert your P-trap outlet into the other side of the 45. Done. All big box stores and hardware stores carry that fitting. 25 year pipefitter here.
Thank you very much for this video. This was exactly the issue I was encountering without even knowing that this was an issue. Thank you for emphasizing the primer that I didn't even know existed.
Thx for video - Its very nice of you to respond to legitimate comments but don’t waste your time with the trolls.
No worries
Jeff, nice job explaining. One note. I've been taught to remove the burr edges from the cut PVC to ensure a smooth glue seal.
Yes, we were in such a rush to get this water on for them, they were leaving out of town for a wedding, and didn't care.
When he remarked on the clean edge (the one where burrs were everywhere) I just about did a spit take.
Thanks for your video. It is very informative. I'm going to try using a similar method. Regarding using a Dremel that you discuss at 6:15, do you have a video of how it was used to remove the outside fitting? Thanks again.
No video of it, I just made slits in the coupler, not all the way through to the pipe. When you have a slit cut, you can use a screwdriver to pry it off the pipe.
exactly the video I was looking for. your set up is the same as mine. (bathroom renovation)
Awesome! Glad our video was able to help you out.
Last time I had this problem I filled the pipe with sand and used a heat gun to bend the pvc to the shape I needed. I'm not sure if it's up to code, but it worked great. It also saved me a few pennies and a trip to the hardware store.
Scary but it worked ok for you.
Can I attach the slip directly on to an elbow? Or must I have pvc in between the two fittings? I am trying to have as short of an arm as possible.
As long as the slip does not go inside the pipe and reduce the diamter you can use it. You can also cut down the size of a p-trap arm as well, we do this all the time with the p-trap arm
@@jeffostroff Thank you! The slip will sleeve over the elbow, the elbow will sleeve over the drain line. I cut the drain line down to 3 inches coming out of the wall, and that helped significantly as well.
Thanks, you made the process simple for a first time DIY’er like myself. It’s very doable.
I just wish I saw your video sooner. I’m going to take back the flexible p-trap that I bought before I saw your video to Home Depot and get a regular P-trap.
Glad it was helpful! Smart move taking that flexible P-trap back
Flexible pipe is AGAINST CODE everywhere in Missouri
The DIY code: we learn from our mistakes.
Excellent detail. Thanks for discussing those little things that matter in a project.
Thanks glad it was helpful!
You know they sell compression 45 degree elbows right?
That’s what I was yelling
Thats illegal you cant have mire then ONE slip joint on the horizontal. You people who think plumbing is just putting 90's on pipe to move or change location of a fixture or bathroom layout thats already plumbed have no clue. Learn some code plumbing.
@@johnnyglassman4517 you can have more than one slip joint fitting on the horizontal.
@@johnnyglassman4517 You should learn spelling and grammar first before you start telling people about codes. It just doesn't look good when you talk about things like code but can't even spell.
Hi
one think that is not clear to me is other than 90 i could not find right angle meaning is it 60 or 45 degree. between 2 fitting tht i want to join. can u pls advise any tricks or tips
you don't want to use a 90, you want a 90 bend, or even better trying combos of 45 or 22.5. Either way you should be able to make it with a combo of the right fitting and length of cut PVC pipe
thanks for the video, i had this same problem, new sink was way offset from the pipe coming out of the wall, so i am going to add the P trap just before entering the wall pipe, then add a couple elbows from the sink.. this helped me figure it out.
Glad it helped
Have fun cleaning that out that wont clog at all . Talk about code with purple primer but not on illegal drainage lol. Well done handyman .
What are you saying here Brian.
Itll drain fine...I've seen worse many many many times
Jeff, you are awesome! I am subscribed and my bell is rung. You are my go-to-guy to fix everything. I watch with diligence, study the vocabulary, terms and everything I can. My husband thinks I have some kind of amazing plumbing skills...a plumbing whispers if you will. I'm not telling. I think I've picked up you're located in FL. I am too. Sure wished you lived closer to me though. Just wanted to send you and your team a huge thank you!
Awesome, I'm glad to hear of another visitor who benefits from these DIY videos.
Or you could widen the hole slightly and just use a coupling.
Or you could use the female counterpart to the trap adapter to connect to the existing male trap adapter, and build from there.
hmmmmm, if i use a 90 degree joint, is that ok? ive never done these, but wont that be easier?
No, you are not supposed to use a 90 on a waste line as the water is not under pressure, so it could cause blockages. You should use a bend instead.
@@jeffostroff i see, thanks
@@jeffostroff i see, thanks
Hello. I have the Dalskar Ikea faucet. I need longer water lines than were OEM with the faucet. When I unscrew the water line from the faucet I don't recognize the small size of the male fitting. Do happen to know what this size this fitting is? - where might I be able to find a longer water line? I think it may be a 9/16” x 24UNEF if this is a thing, just guessing. And the other end would be the 3/8 female connection to the water shut off valve.(the Dalskar faucet came with a 24" line, I need 30" lines as my water shut-offs are near the floor.) thank you in advance!
There really is no way of telling I would try to bring it into home depot and they have different sized water lines there down the plumbing oil they hang on a display many sizes from 12" all the way up to 36" and I would just try to see which one of those fits into it and not even try to guess.
good solution.. btw the P trap was backwards in the opening vid ..
Yes, that was done to show confusion with DIY people
Yes, I thought I was seeing it backwards. (But being still a newbie, I had to search to see if someone said something). Would be nice to see a Note stating the error or some words overlaying the scene***Did you Notice something wrong here?
Please don't use silicon caulk to seal your drain pipes people! I had to pull about 1/4 tube of that off the drains under my kitchen sink when I purchased my house, and they all sealed just fine after being cleaned off and put back together. No leaking from those pipes for 6 years.
First the P trap is BACK wards and then re measure.. or call somebody that know the codes..
You were in a hurry yet you had time to film this video. I’m a licensed plumber the P traps backwards you’re creating too much suction.
@@americanfirst913 Did you not see we do have the P-Trap installed correctly positioned when we put all the part together starting at 13:25? We do have our P-trap installed correctly, fully tested, and this will pass any plumbing inspection. How is it that you say it's installed backwards?
Sorry I only watched up until seeing that and turned it I thought it was a joke
Just always teflon p/o threats, silicon>putty always. And is that an ikea trap? Use full size 1 1/2 csa approved traps that one looks super weak.
You probably have a clog somewhere between your kitchen sink and the street outside your house where it dumps into the sewer system. This is making the water back up, and it has to go somewhere, so it goes back up to the basement drain. Most often this can be snaked out. But if that fails, I've seen where tree roots have burst through pipes and are clogging the pipe now. Usually the plumbers need to snake a camera down the drain pipe to confirm it. This happened at our friend's house lasted year. hopefully yours is just a simple clog that can be snaked easily with their machine. Make sure you don't ever pour chicken fat down your sink drain, I try to avoid putting any solid foods, or anything oily or buttery that can congeal at room temperature or colder.
Thanks for posting! Can you please tell me the maximum distance that the drain pipe can run horizontally (left to right) from the p-trap to the stubout? I have a tiny kitchen and I would like to move my sink to the right 18". Could I use this method?
Universal Plumbing Code says the total developed length of all tailpieces, arms and fittings connecting the drain to the p-trap must be 24 inches or less.
@@jeffostroff In lay-person terms, is that a "yes"? 😉 I'm going to have to look up the term "developed length". 😬
Please add the link for fixing the leaky gasket ring. Thank you
The trap isn't backwards. It will still work and pass code. Those traps are designed for the 2-4 inches your allowed. It's just a better job and less effort to install it the correct way
We did install it correctly I don't know why everybody keeps coming in here and saying it's backwards 13:25 Take a look at that is a text book P trap install it is not backwards it is not non standard it is as perfect as it gets. And it has been tested thoroughly a full sink has been through it, they have been using it now for 2 years and have not had a problem with it.
@@jeffostroff still backwards bud
@@zenunmustafa4381 I thought the same, everyone is confused because the thumbnail image and start of this video shows it incorrect, but it’s installed properly correct way at the end
Use a slip 45 and put the p trap on correctly. Done.
Yeah...that’s what I was thinking. First, flip the trap so the tail goes into the correct part of the trap. Next, swing the trap elbow so it faces the left side of the cabinet. Now put a slip elbow on and run it to the trap adapter. Easy..is that what you are saying?
@@jeffreylonigro1382- Yup that's what he's saying.
Tenth Dimension LOL...how to make an easy job difficult and do it backwards. I love how the guy who did the video gets his undies in a bunch. Even the gal at Home Depot gets it right. A couple months back I was on a job with the p trap installed backwards and I needed a reducing slip washer and I showed her a picture and she says, “the p-trap is backward.” I said, “yeah, it’s leaking so I’m going to reverse it.” Btw...when they’re backwards and hooked to a food disposal grinder, the rate of failure increases.
It's not legal to have more than one slip joint between the weir and the trap adapter
@@toryuskoski8382- What's a "weir"??
To test fill the sink
thank you!This is exactly my situation under my kitchen sink but I have ABS pipes -what glue do I use to connect ABS to PVC for inside flush coupling?
They have a yellow one step cement for PVC pipes, ask guys in Home depot plumbing aisle for it
The thumbnail is what got me to click on the video. I was actually looking for videos to see if an inverted p-trap actually works. My supervisor inverted a P-trap because the drain coming out of the wall in a kitchen was too high for the p-trap.
Did it work for him? I should try that some time
The problem here is your trap is connected to the waste arm wrong. To start with. You also wrongly reduced the inside of that drain, which would fail a real inspection. You corrected the final assembly. Nice job
Not sure what you mean by wrongly reduced the inside of the drain, please clarify.
According to the uniform plumbing code and the international plumbing code by inserting that connector you reduced the drain size from 1 1/2" to around an 1 1/4" then back you have reduced the drain size and it is illegal according to code. That would have failed an inspection. You can increase it but not decrease it.
Maybe don't plumb if you don't know how.
@@1985Satisfaction Lol I knew we wouldn't hear back from you in regards to the plumbing codes that I asked you to point out where we were wrong get the exact page paragraph number centra. There is nothing wrong with the final product displayed in this video you're just one of those hand wavers that doesn't really know what hes talking about otherwise you would've provided the information already you did exactly as I predicted.
The code you are looking for is in the upc chapter three paragraph 310.5 under obstruction of flow which also elludes to chapter three paragraph 301.2. Unfortunately I can't give you a page as I had to look up the chapter on the epub of the 2018 upc on iapmo's website...hope you enjoy my "hard research" grin :D
Best way to check for a leak is to fill the sink with water , then pull the plunger
that's what we mention at 14:10 in the video. We ddi not want to run the video lobger so we just mentioned it, but did not show it.
Speaking of making the video longer. I’m sorry but imho this video should of been much shorter. I’m only still watching to see if you use that wire to cut with. Just curious.
should the part coming off the P trap be level or sloped to the waste line?
Doug, the trap arm is slopes DOWN to the waste pipe at the wall by 1/4"/foot. Thus, with < 12" from the wall to the downward curve of the trap arm, you should see 1/8" to 1/4" sloping down to the wall. Most houses have that waste line coming out of the wall 100% horizontal, and it still drains OK. One thing to keep in mind is your trap "weir", which is where the water level tops off inside the trap pipe, making that U-shaped body of water that keeps sewer gases out of your sink drain. The Weir is right inside the curved part of the pipe, that WEIR must be ABOVE the vent connection inside the wall, otherwise the air from the vent won't make it back to the weir, you won't have air behind water, and you could cause a siphon effect, which could drain your P-trap of water, and there goes your protection from sewer gasses. Always make sure your vent connection in the wall NEVER goes below the water line (Weir) inside your trap. How do you see where that water level is in the Weir? It's where the P-Trap arm curves downward from the waste pipe, and it's the bottom edge of that pipe, at the curve. The inspector measures from the floor to the bottom of the P-trap arm pipe at the curve near the trap connection where the trap weir is located. Next they measure from floor to top of the waste pipe at the vent connection, accounting for thickness of pipe wall. If the difference between those 2 measurements is less than the diameter of the pipe, no worries of a siphon happening and your permit is signs and approved.
Just make sure that the top of the drain pipe where it connects to the vent inside the wall is at or above the bottom of the P-trap drain arm at the trap connection, and you will be OK.
😊
Thanks for the video. When you cut the short lengths of PVC to be glued into fittings, how close to square do the ends of the pipe have to be cut?
OK, Very impressive, however you forgot One very important step. when finished with everything, you should not only run the water and check for leaks, but filling the sink pass the over-flow holes in sink to 1)check to see if popup assembly doesn't leak and 2)when releasing water, the pipes are filled with water don't leak either. A small stream of water will not ensure a true and lasting test. Nice Video's, we need more out there like yourself. BTW, I was a master Plumber, for over 20 years. Nice job.
Vincent, We DID show the test starting at 14:08, I guess you didn't see it. We talked about how to do the test, but in the interest of saving time from the video getting too long we did not show the actual water filling up or draining out, but you can see us mentioning you have to do the overflow test.
Just to let you know that all drainage has to have fall so you want a slight angel down towards the out let side of the drain to main branch
"Dirty arms" dont have pitch. I dont believe its required. Because with a brass commercial trap for example, ideally if you put it in right there will be very little/no pitch...
very informative keep up the great videos
Thanks for the kind words!
Instead of cutting off the trap adapter, just screw on a mip adaptor and go from there
That's hack
@@bradhaenitsch1145 when are you posting your video?
@@bradhaenitsch1145 gluing a smaller pipe fitting into a larger fitting ever so small still lets the drain have a start of a plug over time.
tell me what type of piping was used before pvc or abs pipe? steel or cast iron pipe, the steel was threaded.
yes you can buy the product and yes it can work for some time but you never reduce a plumbing drain and than bring it back to size, just ask any plumbing inspector.
How do I connect pvc to copper coming into the bathroom vanity?
I prefer to use this: homedepot.sjv.io/213Bq7 Fernco/Mission connector, just make sure it is the right size for your copper pipe coming out of the wall, as it must clamp to it.
I have the sink and little kitchen in the garage underneath the sink I have the same problem the zigzag pipping from 1997 I have change those piping about 10 time by the handyman and that’s never get permanent fix always start leaking in 3 or 4 months now I see your video and I will try by my self to fix I Never did it before now thanks for your beautiful video I m gonna try to fix it and will let you know my brother thanks I live in Florida
Let us know how it works out for you keeping our fingers crossed for you
What is that pipe inside the outlet pipe at 6:15?
Another blind leading the blind video. That extra pipe needs to be removed. It will restrict water draining. NOBODY uses 1 1/4 P-Traps anymore. No need for a 1 1/4 trap adapter.
You must be in IL, when you say nobody uses 1 1/4 traps anymore you sound foolish to the rest of the country. Most other states including Florida use 1 1/4" P-traps in the bathroom, and 1 1/2" P-traps in the kitchen. Just look at the bathroom sinks, the drain opening are all 1 1/4". All bathroom faucets with drains are 1 1/4". Also yes that extra pipe was some idiotic thing dune by the builder, who did many other stupid and illegal things in that house, it was originally the builder's own house, built by favors from idiot subcontractors.
@@jeffostroff In California, Idaho, NH, Connecticut, and many other states, 1 1/4 inch traps are rare in modern homes. If the home is built in the 60s or before, 1 1/4 inch traps were more common but easily updated to 1 1/2. The code (IPC) does not specify 1 1/4 inch.
There is no reason to install 1 1/4 drains and traps when 1 1/2 is the same price and more readily available. Pop-ups have 1 1/4 inch tailpieces but a reducing slip washer at the pop-up tail piece works fine. My wholesale suppliers have a very limited stock of 1 1/4 inch DWV. Home Depot has limited selection. The 1 1/2 inch P-Traps I buy have both 1 1/2 inch and 1 1/2 to 1 1/4 reducing washers in every set. I never saw a builder install 1 1/4 inch P-Trap unless it was chrome/brass from the early 60s or before. Many back to the 50s or older had a 1 1/2 inch chrome P-Trap that was necked down to 1 1/4 inch for the pop-up connection.
I literally pause at 6:15 and said what the hell is that extra pipe?
I stopped using 1 1/4 because I hate the slow drain in the wife’s vanity (thick hair) not crazy for using it but I’ve personally stopped...everywhere?
@@philwell76 I professionally installed about 2500 bath drains. I always installed 1 1/2 inch. 1 1/4 inch actually costs more than 1 1/2.