One of the best videos on plumbing I have seen. You really helped me because I have to do exactly what you did. I was so fortunate to find your video. I appreciate your effort in making, and I am a new subscriber of yours. Your detailed information shows what a professional you are. Thank you for sharing and may the good Lord bless you for it. Again thank you very much...
Love how clearly you explain all of this. I’ve been afraid of plumbing. But this makes me more confident. I want to put a new smaller vanity in a small bathroom which may require replumbing the sink p-trap. Thanks for this!!!
Wondering if it would’ve been easier to flip the side of the sink the ptrap was coming from so it would be a straighter route instead of adding that 90. Good video!
Is it not correct the lenght of the straight coming off the P-trap (going into the ABS in your example) has to be at least 2x the diameter of the pipe? I saw that somewhere.
Great video, but this type of installation would not be permitted in some places, including Ontario, Canada where I live. Here, the code says AAVs must be intalled above the flood level rim of the highest fixture being vented. So I don't think an AAV beneath the sink like yours would pass code here. I have an s-trap under the kitchen sink in our 1950s home and I'm trying to figure out how to fix it without a major remodel.
I have never heard of these ever being an issue when installed to our local codes. I hope you find a reasonably easy fix. I am going to the Calgary Stampede in the next year or two with some of my friends from Edmonton. I can't wait.
For toilets and showers, yes, the pipe has to go through the roof. I would only use and air admittance valve for sinks. If you are considering having the pipe go into an attic or some interior space where the pipe is open and can get air, the answer is absolutely do not do this. The sewer gases will build up in the attic or open space and create a dangerous situation.
You wouldn't need an s trap or a p trap if the piping is going directly into a drain if the drain is open to the air. If the drain is sealed with a cap or something and the 1.5" piping is sealed into the cap so the drain isn't open to the air, then you would need a p trap.
Not to be lazy, but take a screenshot of the picture and take a picture of the plumbing under the sink and they will be able to help you out. Just make sure you ask an older guy who works in the plumbing department.
1:37 I'm confused... you say the roof vent is for helping the water go down but I had understood that the drains would flush quite well without a vent. The problem is not that too little water goes down, rather it's the opposite, that too much gets sucked down. Also an air actuated valve is something from pneumatic control systems, what you mean to say is air admittance valve.
Great video. Have you have any experience with diverting greywater from sinks? I'm currently building and would like to be able to switch the drain of the sink from going out to the yard (during dry season) back to septic tank when necessary (during wet season). I've looked at gate valves and/or ball valves to place under the sink for easy access in changing the flow. Any thoughts? THX!!
I think the issue you would have with valves and gray water is clogging at the valve that will be shut off for months at a time. The thought that comes to mind is to put a clean out before each valve, that way when you go to divert the water you can open the valve that has been closed for months and flush out any debris that has accumulated. I think gate valves would work the best for this application.
What is the name of the saw tool that you used? My husband used to do all this stuff for me, but he has had a stroke and I'm learning now. He is getting better but I just realized we have a S trap and it needs replacing sooner than he could do it for me.
I have an old farm house. S trap under kitchen sink with drain going strait downward. No vent pipe there to convert into a P. Only option is demolition of wall to install vent pipe. I may have to just keep the S. No gas smell ever so far. Home inspector missed this and no shut off valves on toilets, or sinks when I bought it. I have installed water shut off valves since. But, probably will have to live with the S under kitchen sink. Also, I am old school septic. No leach bed. Septic run off and gray water all run into old clay tile going off my property and into farm field tiles. How they did it back then
Your situation is probably going to be a bit different. I would take a picture of your set up now and ask an old guy at Lowe's or Home Depot what you need.
Hi Brett new subscriber here I got an s trap in my laundry room inside where the discharge hose goes inside the standpipe are there any helpful tips to replace the pipe immediately I don't want gases coming inside my house I got niece's and nephews
If it has properly worked for years, you can decide if it needs to be changed. If you occasionally get sewer smells aroud the sink, then it needs to be changed. How the trap is vented doesn't matter as much if the water draining is causing enough suction to draw water out of the s trap.
It would if you used reducing bushings to get to 1 1/2 inch pipe and then follow the setup like in the video. Find an old guy at Lowe's who works in the plumbing department and hopefully he can find the pieces you will need.
So I have a reoccurring slow/blocked drain and an s trap. I think it may be due to improper venting. Do you think that's possible? And would this solve my problem if the venting is the problem.
Nice job! If the drain is inside the wall, what fittings do you use to raise the drain? I ask this bc on a new vanity, I don’t want to cut the floor of the vanity to accommodate the p-trap when I can cut into the wall and raise the drain inlet
I would use a Fernco. They are a rubber connection with a clamp on either end that fits over the pvc. If you send me an email I can send you a drawing as it is kind of hard to describe. brettleybuilt@gmail.com
How would you install a p trap system in a mobile home sink that has the main pipe not on the wall, but going down on the floor? Would a p trap/s trap work with an air admittance valve for venting work?
Yes. If the water in the trap is too deep, the water going down from the sink might not have enough pressure to push the water in the trap quickly enough and may cause debris to settle and clog in the trap.
Great video. When I empty my bathroom sink, the water in the trap in my shower goes down and gas is getting back thru. You can hear the shower gurgling and then gas smell in shower but only happens when I use the sink. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video and explanation, I think I might as well replace mine as well. Did you just buy all the parts at the hardware store or do you have any amazon links for the items?
Is there a way to install a p-trap in a limited space, a kitchen cabinet 12 inches wide? A plumber replaced the old metal s-trap with a PVC s-trap, and that's it. Now am researching
@@brettleybuilt I have a funky plumbing situation in an old 1970's Maine homestead cabin and would appreciate some DIY advice... I will email you some pictures... Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video.
Why didn't you just use 2 abs 45's and offset the abs further back into the corner? Then just use the P-trap with no unnecessary fittings? I feel like that would be much cleaner.
I've owned 12 apartments in 4 buildings and have never had a problem with s-traps not working. This is a very rare problem related to the drain pipes not being the correct size or clogged.
Well finally getting around to replacing these and Im totally lost as to what the parts I need to buy are called. You have both pvc glue pipes and other pipes that have plastic nuts. What those are called nobody fukn knows. I really wish you had a parts list.
I'm having a real dilemma. My husband and I just bought our first house. They had the master bathroom sink plumbing going into the floor with what looks like a redneck s trap. But the pipe going from the sink into the s is smaller in diameter than the pipe coming from the floor. So the pipe coming from the sink just sits in the s trap and if the s trap fills with water it spills over into the cabinet below the sink. How would we go about fixing this? My husband is fairly handy and I'm pretty good at solving puzzles, we just don't have the money for a plumber right now and we really need to be able to use our sink....
One of the best videos on plumbing I have seen. You really helped me because I have to do exactly what you did. I was so fortunate to find your video. I appreciate your effort in making, and I am a new subscriber of yours. Your detailed information shows what a professional you are. Thank you for sharing and may the good Lord bless you for it. Again thank you very much...
Love how clearly you explain all of this. I’ve been afraid of plumbing. But this makes me more confident. I want to put a new smaller vanity in a small bathroom which may require replumbing the sink p-trap. Thanks for this!!!
The best! No nonsense, very clear and concise.
Well done....this has helped A LOT as a newer DIY guy.
Thank you for showing how adjustments can be made for a proper fit. Great Video!
The detail in this video with all the tidbits. Thank you so much.
Thank you, sir, for a great help in doing my utility sink in the basement.
Fixed up my S-trap kitchen sink thanks to your instructions, Thanks
I’m currently installing a new vanity in a home we just bought and am dealing with an S-trap. Thank you for the instruction.
Thank you! Purchasing a house and the inspector noted s-traps. Feel confident now I can update them myself. ☺️
Incredibly informative and helpful. Thank you so much
Great no waffle video, I now need some pipe joiner compound to stop the leaks, Thanks from the UK
The video still helps out a year later - thanks for doing this. I need to change out several "S" traps in the house we are buying.
Thank you Brett. This worked for me to change S-trap to P-trap.
Thank you. This is the best and most instructive presentation that I have seen.
Uncle Eddie from National Lampoon was the reference. Thanks for the video!
Cousin
Awesome video! You saved my day! I really appreciate it! Thank you for taking the time and explaining so well!
This is such a helpful easy to understand video. Thanks
Thank you so much.
Btw this is a great video and you Re great instructor
Great video, mate.
Great video! To the point, great camera angles, and explanations were cear and and easily understood. Thank you sir!
Wondering if it would’ve been easier to flip the side of the sink the ptrap was coming from so it would be a straighter route instead of adding that 90. Good video!
Thanks so much! This was VERY helpful. I appreciate you :)
Excellent video! Thank you.
Is it not correct the lenght of the straight coming off the P-trap (going into the ABS in your example) has to be at least 2x the diameter of the pipe? I saw that somewhere.
I have never heard that.
Great video!
Nice job
Great.
Any hint of what kind of air vavle is used?
There are a few to choose from. Lowe's or Home Depot have them.
What is that think with the red flashing light?
Great video, but this type of installation would not be permitted in some places, including Ontario, Canada where I live. Here, the code says AAVs must be intalled above the flood level rim of the highest fixture being vented. So I don't think an AAV beneath the sink like yours would pass code here. I have an s-trap under the kitchen sink in our 1950s home and I'm trying to figure out how to fix it without a major remodel.
I have never heard of these ever being an issue when installed to our local codes. I hope you find a reasonably easy fix. I am going to the Calgary Stampede in the next year or two with some of my friends from Edmonton. I can't wait.
An s-trap with large volume is better than a small volume. Personally, I'd use the valve in this conversion.
Dual-seal air admittance valve is best. Thanks for the install video.
AAV above sink flood level most places is code. For an addition or extensive remodel only a true 'tto the roof vent' or vent tie in is required
Is it necessary to extend vent pipes through the roof? Can they be run up the exterior wall of the house?
For toilets and showers, yes, the pipe has to go through the roof. I would only use and air admittance valve for sinks.
If you are considering having the pipe go into an attic or some interior space where the pipe is open and can get air, the answer is absolutely do not do this. The sewer gases will build up in the attic or open space and create a dangerous situation.
Great video! What about 1.5" S Trap piping that goes directly into a 4" floor drain ?
You wouldn't need an s trap or a p trap if the piping is going directly into a drain if the drain is open to the air. If the drain is sealed with a cap or something and the 1.5" piping is sealed into the cap so the drain isn't open to the air, then you would need a p trap.
That Cousin Eddie. 😂😂😂😂😂
Can you make a list of the fittings so i can go to home depot to shop for thiss exact set up?
Not to be lazy, but take a screenshot of the picture and take a picture of the plumbing under the sink and they will be able to help you out. Just make sure you ask an older guy who works in the plumbing department.
What if I have an AAV beneath the sink but still have a smell when I unscrew the pipes near the
S trap-- is that normal?
Great Video. THANKS!
Yes. If you disconnect the plumbing you will most likely have sewer smells. When everything is installed correctly, there shouldn't be any odors.
I have never put pipe compound on ABS threads before, but I have heard it can disolve the ABS, have you ever experienced this?
No, I have never had a problem with that and have never heard of it being a problem.
@@brettleybuilt what if you have to change the valve
Thank you for the great video. Question, do you always have to install the air actuated valve or is it situation dependent?
If you can tie into a vent pipe it is better to do that. An air admittance valve or a vent pipe are your two options.
@@brettleybuilt ok thank you
1:37 I'm confused... you say the roof vent is for helping the water go down but I had understood that the drains would flush quite well without a vent. The problem is not that too little water goes down, rather it's the opposite, that too much gets sucked down.
Also an air actuated valve is something from pneumatic control systems, what you mean to say is air admittance valve.
Yeah, I messed up the terminology. Too many things on my mind when filming.
Should we use s trap or p trap with wall hanging closet comode ?
Doesn't a wall hanging camode have its own trap built in like a floor mounted camode? I am not too familiar with wall mounted camodes?
Great video. Have you have any experience with diverting greywater from sinks? I'm currently building and would like to be able to switch the drain of the sink from going out to the yard (during dry season) back to septic tank when necessary (during wet season). I've looked at gate valves and/or ball valves to place under the sink for easy access in changing the flow.
Any thoughts? THX!!
I think the issue you would have with valves and gray water is clogging at the valve that will be shut off for months at a time. The thought that comes to mind is to put a clean out before each valve, that way when you go to divert the water you can open the valve that has been closed for months and flush out any debris that has accumulated. I think gate valves would work the best for this application.
@@brettleybuilt Thank you for your response. Great suggestion for the clean out before the valve. Keep on making the very informative videos!
Can I fix plastic pipes to my metal pipes. Also where's the best deal on new bathroom sinks. mine just rusted out where it connects to sink drain. 😟
What is the name of the saw tool that you used? My husband used to do all this stuff for me, but he has had a stroke and I'm learning now. He is getting better but I just realized we have a S trap and it needs replacing sooner than he could do it for me.
A hack saw. It has small teeth and is used for cutting metal and plastics. There are many different designs. This one is my compact hack saw.
Grateful your husband is doing better!
I have an old farm house. S trap under kitchen sink with drain going strait downward. No vent pipe there to convert into a P. Only option is demolition of wall to install vent pipe. I may have to just keep the S. No gas smell ever so far. Home inspector missed this and no shut off valves on toilets, or sinks when I bought it. I have installed water shut off valves since. But, probably will have to live with the S under kitchen sink. Also, I am old school septic. No leach bed. Septic run off and gray water all run into old clay tile going off my property and into farm field tiles. How they did it back then
People have used s traps for years without any real issues. If you don't notice any bad odors you should be fine.
This video was great. Can I do this without the air actuated valve? My concern is that the valve would fail someday and gases get into my house.
If you don't use an air actuated valve, the the p trap has to go into a pipe vent.
Where can you purchase that valve section?
Lowe's or home depot. That is where I get pretty much all of my materials for everything.
Is it possible to get a list of pipes used?
Your situation is probably going to be a bit different. I would take a picture of your set up now and ask an old guy at Lowe's or Home Depot what you need.
Hi Brett new subscriber here I got an s trap in my laundry room inside where the discharge hose goes inside the standpipe are there any helpful tips to replace the pipe immediately I don't want gases coming inside my house I got niece's and nephews
Can you email me a picture of the current setup and I will email you a drawing of what I would suggest doing. brettleybuilt@gmail.com
If I have vents in the wall, do I still need to replace my s trap?
If it has properly worked for years, you can decide if it needs to be changed. If you occasionally get sewer smells aroud the sink, then it needs to be changed. How the trap is vented doesn't matter as much if the water draining is causing enough suction to draw water out of the s trap.
Awesome video, I have a similar problem but my drain pipe is 2-1/2 would your solution in the video still work?
It would if you used reducing bushings to get to 1 1/2 inch pipe and then follow the setup like in the video. Find an old guy at Lowe's who works in the plumbing department and hopefully he can find the pieces you will need.
So I have a reoccurring slow/blocked drain and an s trap. I think it may be due to improper venting. Do you think that's possible? And would this solve my problem if the venting is the problem.
If venting is the problem, this will absolutely fix the problem.
Nice job! If the drain is inside the wall, what fittings do you use to raise the drain? I ask this bc on a new vanity, I don’t want to cut the floor of the vanity to accommodate the p-trap when I can cut into the wall and raise the drain inlet
I would use a Fernco. They are a rubber connection with a clamp on either end that fits over the pvc. If you send me an email I can send you a drawing as it is kind of hard to describe.
brettleybuilt@gmail.com
@@brettleybuilt yep, I’ve used those before. I think now they are using the ones with a metal shield over them
How would you install a p trap system in a mobile home sink that has the main pipe not on the wall, but going down on the floor?
Would a p trap/s trap work with an air admittance valve for venting work?
Can you email me and I will make you a drawing. brettleybuilt@gmail.com
Can p trap be 2 long or big!? And what can happen.
Yes. If the water in the trap is too deep, the water going down from the sink might not have enough pressure to push the water in the trap quickly enough and may cause debris to settle and clog in the trap.
Great video. When I empty my bathroom sink, the water in the trap in my shower goes down and gas is getting back thru. You can hear the shower gurgling and then gas smell in shower but only happens when I use the sink. Any ideas?
There is probably an incorrect pipe connection below the floor shortly after the sink drain or the plumbing in the bathroom is not properly vented.
Thanks for the video and explanation, I think I might as well replace mine as well. Did you just buy all the parts at the hardware store or do you have any amazon links for the items?
I bought everything at Lowe's.
Is there a way to install a p-trap in a limited space, a kitchen cabinet 12 inches wide? A plumber replaced the old metal s-trap with a PVC s-trap, and that's it. Now am researching
Absolutely. You may just have to get creative with the fittings.
If you email me a picture I could give you some suggestions.
@@brettleybuilt I have a funky plumbing situation in an old 1970's Maine homestead cabin and would appreciate some DIY advice... I will email you some pictures... Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video.
👍👏
Why didn't you just use 2 abs 45's and offset the abs further back into the corner? Then just use the P-trap with no unnecessary fittings? I feel like that would be much cleaner.
I've owned 12 apartments in 4 buildings and have never had a problem with s-traps not working. This is a very rare problem related to the drain pipes not being the correct size or clogged.
My house has an s trap installed for the bathroom sink and it doesnt work properly. It smells like ass the first time it is used in the day
Do you have s-traps in your home?
Well finally getting around to replacing these and Im totally lost as to what the parts I need to buy are called. You have both pvc glue pipes and other pipes that have plastic nuts. What those are called nobody fukn knows. I really wish you had a parts list.
Email me and I will help you out. brettleybuilt@gmail.com
What Air Actuated Valve did you use for this project?
I misspoke in the video, it is called an air admittance valve. I bought it at Lowe's. It is an Oatey brand valve.
I'm having a real dilemma. My husband and I just bought our first house. They had the master bathroom sink plumbing going into the floor with what looks like a redneck s trap. But the pipe going from the sink into the s is smaller in diameter than the pipe coming from the floor. So the pipe coming from the sink just sits in the s trap and if the s trap fills with water it spills over into the cabinet below the sink. How would we go about fixing this? My husband is fairly handy and I'm pretty good at solving puzzles, we just don't have the money for a plumber right now and we really need to be able to use our sink....
Can you email me a picture of the plumbing and I will send you a suggested diagram of what you could do. brettleybuilt@gmail.com
great vid ... was there no existing vent connected to the sink drain system already? Do I have to put the air valve on when replacing S to P ?
There was, but the vent is after the s trap so you either need to add an air actuated vent or connect the new p trap the vent through the wall.