When measuring your chamber size, accounting for the space below your valves, "...use gravity from whatever planet your from." Thanks for the humor! Even if humor was missing, I'd still watch, but these little goodies help.
Caboose definitely deserves some wet food. Thanks for ur time and energy Jafro. Glad to see you're back at it. Best production automotive videos on TH-cam as far as I'm concerned.
im not a mechanic and i love this kind of KNOWLEDGE sharing videos like what he did. but i wanna know what is the reason why some DISLIKE this video?are there something wrong with the calculation?can someone please give me a reason.
GOOD DAY ALL : I'm a technician in the aerospace industry from Toronto Ontario Canada , I've seen the video . If you'd also like to calculate you're compression pressure is goes like this . To-days atmospheric pressure (ie 14.6 psi times you're compression ratio ie 9.5 :1 = 138.7 psi . Each day there will be a slight difference in compression pressure . If you live at sea level you'l have the highest compression pressure , if you live in "Denver Colorado" you might want some nice 11.5 :1 pistons to off set the atmospheric problem . Bye Bye all and have a nice day ! ! !
I got a Honda Super blackbird and all the things you have done I will try on the bike's engine. I spoke to an old man who used to tune exhausts for formula one cars in the old days. He said that they would make the headers out of copper pipe because it was easy to cut. Fit a long length to each cylinder. Start the engine and shine a strobe light down the pipe. Where the light shone on the pulse from the cylinder, they would know where to cut the pipe. They would measure the distance using a long piece of wire which they would slide inside the pipe to the pulse.
Hadrian Smith Wow, that is a really awesome trial-and-error shortcut that saves an awful lot of math. That old man was a wise old man with a timing light.
Just came across your video about calculating compression ratio. I usually did direct measurements to total cylinder volume plus sweep volume using burette filled with low viscosity oil such as ATF or 0w-20 oil. Oil poured through spark plug hole on both TDC and BDC. Yes it's messy, but more convenient (at least for me).
Say hello to the new math whiz! Enjoyed the video because I am a math major and I like these type things. Do I or will I remember it? No. That’s why you take notes. That way you have examples and even descriptions of things. Maybe your memory is infallible. Good for you! Mine isn’t so I take notes! You do what you have to to get where you want!👍🏻😊
Wow man that was some impressive mind boggling information. I had to pause and rewind this video so many to actually concentrate and understand what was happening. Great job man... Keep it up.
I've made these comments on another similar video, but may be of help to some here. First, check out on-line chemist/laboratory suppliers for cheap burettes - makes it much easier for CCing. Use a long piece of plexi', or similar material, for the plate as you can do an entire head at the same time - don't forget to align the holes correctly. Some prefer to drill a couple of larger holes that match a couple of the bolt drillings, dropping a couple of the bolts into these will align the plate and prevent movement. Use a syringe with a small opening to run a small bead around the chamber/bore to seal it - I've seen some 'professionals' use thick smears that can make CC's difference as the plate is held off the sealing surface - you just need enough to seal. You will get a much more accurate figure for the piston's bowl or protrusion by using a DTI and lowering it in the bore a known amount and taking the relevalent swept volume from the total figure - especially useful if any part of the piston is above the deck at TDC. A little food colouring will make the fluid much easier to see - handy if the lighting or your eyesight isn't the best. Bore wear wil affect the actual swept volume - may be significant in some instances Can't recall the other point.
Finally i understand how to calculate this thing. Because graham bell does not give you any picture why i should count this or that hehe. Thanks a lot man!
Welcome back. Glad you got your camera all fixed up. How's it working since the repair? If you're happy, we're happy. Glad to see you're back to normal. :)
It's working great! Some of the footage I shot shows the failure occurring and I'm sure it's evident in this video... but all the new footage is VERY clean. I like it! I'm hard at work on the next one.
More Caboose cameos! Great videos as always. One day I'll have my own garage and be able to do some engine building. But for now... I'll just be a broke college kid doing his work outside in a parking lot.
gidday Jafromobile How did I not find your channel sooner. cane with good timing though as I'm about to embark on the all mighty RB30/25Det-3.3lt Stroker. now to see how many of your bids I can watch before sleepy byes. Thanks Nate.
+Jafromobile yes yes I am. 99% of your vids are all over TH-cam that other youtubers have put up. BUT. There is not one single video that has ANYTHING close to your am out of detail. Your good mate. love the ya vids. now to delete all the other videos I have saved from other people and reload them with yours. keep up the good work.
Thank you Jeffery! I know these videos mean a lot to many... and some of the very best messages I receive come from our men in uniform. The positive energy I receive is what keeps me going, too! Thank you for your service!
There's a link to a dynamic compression calculator in my description. Of course you need to know your valve timing events within a degree, but that's also why it's linked in my DOHC valve timing video. ;) That equation is far beyond the attention span of a TH-cam video. lol! The people who made it to the end of this one might appreciate it, though. :)
Jafro, great video very informative, I have been watching your videos for years and always enjoy them. I just completed my first year for my mechanical engineering degree and can appreciate all the work you put in blueprinting engines. I have seen this method done with the use of a thin bead of Vaseline cream around the circumference of the bore to seal the plexiglass to the cylinder head. Would that method have any benefit over this one or is it just unneeded? Im about to start doing something similar to my engine once I finish up with oil clearances
It's not just used as a means of sticking down the plexiglass. It fills the gap around the rings and prevents your test fluid from leaking down through the oil holes for the piston skirts that are behind the rings. kinduv like the stopper in a bathtub. If you use a viscous test fluid (unlike me and my lazy self), it won't drain fast enough to affect your measurements. A tenth of a CC in piston volume would barely dent the final compression numbers. I doubt I leaked that much alcohol, but I'm pretty sure that more than that evaporated. Alcohol is not what you want to use for this test, I was simply verifying an already-known number. Where the vaseline test comes in REAL handy is when you've made changes to the pistons yourself, like cutting new fly cuts, polishing, or ceramic coating. Those techniques aren't part of the original piston's spec sheet unless they were done by the manufacturer, and in cases where they're not, you would need the most accurate means of measuring it. You'd use Vaseline and a non-evaporating test medium.
What I don't get, is what are you going to do with the compression ratio later? Where the outcome is going to be used? Considering that I don't know how to tune an engine having EFI...
I didn't leave it that way... I intentionally maintained a previous engine builder's selection in order to keep it this way. It was intentional. A high compression engine makes more torque, more power than a lower compression engine under the same circumstances. It comes at a cost of losing stability in your fuel source, so you've gotta be on your toes with your tune. Little problems there can lead to big failures, so I will be on my toes tuning-wise, with white knuckles, enjoying all the extra torque steer and tire smoke. ;)
Jafro, so many of us study your videos as if it were the ultimate religion. (-well, it basically is) hahaha Thank you for all the time and effort you put in to make these videos!! Hopefully we’ll see you at the next dsm shootout in ohio!! 🤘🏻
Great you have your beloved camera back :-)) All your calculations wizzed past my brain at lightspeed, although i could see where your were going with it. I did think you did the head volume oddly, a large hole in the plastic and syringe the measured fluid in untill no air is present, thats how ive allways understood it. Perhaps i was confused........ thats normal lol :-))
Nice work in explaining compression Jafro :) My 64/63 build motor iam sure is high compression and only runs well on 93oct. I am still new at tunning but looking forward to see what it does at the track.
Summet.com has a calculator that you just fill out the info, and it tells you the comp ratio. You should have your engine Walnut shell blasted to clean it up. That shiny head is going to make everything else look bad.
Only the inside is shiny... ;) The calculator at Summit isn't going to give you any degree of accuracy if you don't measure all of the parts you're using. It will never give you results as accurate as the method demonstrated in this video, but it still uses these same basic underlying formulas to calculate your compression (albeit accurate to a tenth of a decimal place). It won't help you calculate compresion without access to the internet, but what it DOES do which is very valuable... is help you calculate compression for parts you don't have... to help you develop ideas for a build. In that regard, it's an extremely valuable tool. Online calculators just put makeup on the exact same math that's in this video. ;)
I really enjoy your videos. The wealth of knowledge is reason enough but the quality of the editing and narration is of equal depth. So, I have started to research some editing programs that do not cost to much but are feature packed. The few I have test drove do not have more than 2X FF and seemed to want to cut the resolution in half upon import. Any suggestions for a program that works on Win7?
if you engine is already completly assembled is there a way to roughly calculate the cr. by say using a syringe to fill the combustion chamber with something like atf at TDC the amount of fluid entered would then be the total combustion chamber i know what my piston dish vloume is so i could subtrack that from the value i get to get the cylinder head volume. and then the swept volume being known would be able to give you the CR no? obviously not as accurate as a pre assembly check but doable right?
Hopefully I watched the video right. Would there be any merits in terms of chasing the last few horsepower from a relatively small displacement engine in doing a second round of machine work trying to chase down near perfect values? As I understand it one of the major goals of a blueprinted race engine is achieving consistent values on each cylinder.
xpoohx105 That is indeed one of the goals of blueprinting. What you can't perfect, you can often tune around. You need to know where the differences are in order to do that. So if there are any variations, there are multiple approaches to dealing with them, and machining is only one of them. If given the opportunity to perfect each value and match all cylinders equally, all it does is simplify the tune. I think my Hyundai will be a prime example of this, because of the age, wear, and condition of its worn-out re-used parts, there's only so much I'm willing to machine. It would better me to start over. But the work I did dialed it in a hell of a lot closer than where it was. I'm continuing to use the un-even, worn out rings and bores to my advantage. It's how I've managed to run 22 PSI through this thing at 10:1 compression without blowing it apart. It's set up intentionally loose, and in a well-overbored out-of-spec block for a simple reason. Because it works. Sometimes a blueprint just shows you what you need to fix. Sometimes the blueprint simply demonstrates why certain things work when they shouldn't, or when everyone else says they shouldn't. Is there merit in making every value match across all cylinders? Yes. Absolutely. Especially when your time and money resources are endless. But match spec? Nah. Not so much. Sometimes you should even avoid it. Either way, you can tune around it, matching everything just makes it that much easier to tune.
this is the easy part. What's hard is coming up with a formula to calculate expected cranking psi depending on compression ratio and elevation. (No it isn't CRx14.7 or (CR-1)x14.7 ) Oh, also it would have to compensate for pressure lost past the ring end gap. With such a formula we would know how far off our engine is from the ideal (which would give us an idea if it is time to do an engine rebuild).
True, and you're talking about *dynamic compression*. I left a link to a dynamic compression calculator in the description because it's too much math for the average user/viewer to learn. The ring gap issue is splitting hairs when you can do a leak down test to check the rings' health. If you were going to take an engine apart and measure ring gaps for your formula because they were suspect (and a leak down test didn't conclusively indicate it), to me it doesn't make sense not to go ahead and rebuild it while you're in there. That's a lot of work.
I don't see any link to a dynamic compression calculator. I deal with motorcycles so taking the cylinder off to measure ring end gap is not a huge job. And most bike riders don't have the kit for doing a leak down test. It's much easier just to measure the cranking psi and then have an idea of how worn the rings are.
OOPS! Sorry! Fixed it. OMG I intended to have that in there all these years. I think I might have put it into my valve timing video? Because that's what offsets your static compression, it's overlap and the timing of valvetrain events that affect your dynamic compression. I have a DOHC valve timing video where I talk about that.
No I'm taling about a calculator that no one yet has figured out how to make. How to know the ideal cranking psi when you know the compression ratio and the ring end gap when the rings were newly installed.
Can you determine engine output with compression given the Air, Fuel and Ignition system is perfect and known factory specs? After 222,097 miles my Acura G25a inline 5 still has 92% of it's factory compression. Factory compression was 206 PSI, my average of all 5 cylinders is 188 PSI. 190+185+190+190+185=940/5=188. 206-8.75%=18.25 difference. Proof = 206-188= 18. Only 8.75% of original compression lost after 23 years, 222K miles and unknown abuse. I know there are other variables involved in calculating output (fuel, air flow, ignition, friction, pumping, temperature variables) but given I have brand new injectors, premium in the tank, all new sensors, normal friction and an entirely new ignition system, 176hp FROM FACTORY - 8.75% (amount of compression loss) = 15.4hp loss? So I have 162hp left? Probably an indirect calculation. Please let me know! Trying too guess before I dyno test it.
While it's fair to estimate that way, the other variables part will get the best of even your dyno results. Unless you started with a stock dyno pull from the factory to get that 176hp... you won't be anywhere close. For example, my 5.0L F-150 makes 390hp, but a dyno will only see 280 at the wheels if I'm lucky. It has a 6-speed automatic, a transfer case, and a 5" factory lift adding pinion angle. Power at the crank vs. power at the wheels is different on every drivetrain. A dyno pull won't measure power output at the crankshaft. It measures how much of that factory horsepower rating which is often just the engine's output-hits the pavement. I don't want to discourage you from going to the dyno, though. Add that 8.75% to your results and estimate what it could have been new. Compression is indeed responsible for output. It's not linear, like you said, there are other variables at play... but your suggestion for estimating it is reasonable.
I've only subscribed to one other person on TH-cam. Nice job. I will search your videos but want to know how to pick performance parts to build a twincharged 4 cylinder engine.
I thought you said cylinder bores are slightly tapered. Wouldn't that slightly affect the volume calculations you're doing or do your previous bore measurements already factor that in?
Yep. Slightly. Just like you said. We're talking slightly to the ten thousandth of an inch, so anything happening at the tenth position will remain completely un-affected. Egg and taper would play a negligible affect on static compression ratios if the engine is actually capable of running.
Awesome stuff. I was wondering, though????? Do you have an explanatory video on tuned exhausts? I have a V4 engine, and the exhaust plumbing (4 into 1) is insane, in the name of neatness. I was going to fill the whole lot with water, then divide it by 4, to get a singular volume. Do you have anything on here to shed some light? Great work...
That's exactly how you'd want to do it. Tuned exhausts would normally go through the liquid displacement test runner-by-runner during assembly, and a tuned exhaust would be sized according to displacement and intake port volumes if you're trying to maximize the flow per-runner, but the liquid displacement test and a notepad is the best way to do it short of flowbench time spent matching the flow rates to the rest of the head ports. Us turbo guys have it easy, we do it based off of manifold pressure and turbo exhaust housing sizing. NA setups benefit more from tuned exhaust runners than the boosted crowd. I should have done a liquid displacement test on the head I ported, but it's going back in the car in about 10 minutes. :\
Just to clarify something, ...no...the Ducati, on my profile is, as obvious, a V twin. This is for my V4 Honda. It's great to get some affirmation from you. You're on the ball, to say the least, and I value your opinion. As i'm sure you're aware, it can be hard to find someone to 'bounce off', when you're trying to figure something out. And, hey....if you smear your finger over a bar of soap, and touch the water, when doing your head displacement, it'll break the surface tension of the water. May help...... Thanks again.
soooo i have a question for ya,,i had a motor that had 300 psi on a compression test,,i know thats crazy comp,,but it ran looks a beast,,so what kinda deck hight and other stuff would u need for that?
Nice video! DSM's are one of the few things that can make me do math these days :P So Im curious since your total combustion chamber volume is 565.2596 cc's if you multiply that by 4 that gives a total of 2261.0384. Does that mean you have a 2.2 liter engine? Or is displacement based solely on the measurement of V1?
If the actual compression is dictated by the position of the top compression ring (And 2nd too), wouldn't top ring placing affect the overall comp ratio? You know, like some diesels have a thick crown. Or am I missing s/thing:)
The way I tested my dish volume included that gap. That gap is about a thousandth of an inch. If you want to calculate it, you can do the formula twice, once with the bore and once for the piston, use the depth from the deck to the #1 compression ring, subtract the small result from the big one. You can do the cc conversion if you want to make the number look bigger, but I think you'll see why that value isn't included. Rings don't make a perfect seal, either. The amount of air that leaks past the rings during the compression stroke will also not be a part of the compression ring calculation shown here, but it will have a larger affect on the static compression value than the piston to cylinder wall gap on top of the #1 compression ring. The static value represents the potential... a best-case scenario. It's never the real-world result of the build. Dynamic compression involves valve timing. In order to calculate dynamic compression, you first have to start by calculating your static compression ratio. You can't do that until you measure your valve timing events. Blow-by is extremely difficult to accurately measure, but you can get a pretty good idea of how close you came to what's on paper with a compression test once it's in the car and broken in. By this stage, you won't be worried about that gap. ;) I hope this helps.
My math teacher didn't come with a porn soundtrack, but he was young and pretty popular. 'pretty sure some of the ladies in class wish he did... but I find it a bit distracting when I'm doing math. ;) Thanks for staying tuned in over the years!
I will admit, I did not finish the calculations for each cylinder, However given the cylinder specs you provided, Would that mean your total CC would be in the ballpart of 2261cc rather then the 1997cc factory claims? Or would the 1997 be the CC of the block itself, Not including the 47cc claimed head combustion area?
Q: Would/could variations in piston height to deck affect a smooth idle even though only a tiny difference in compression? Also, I be willing to bet 80% of supposedly trained and experienced auto mechanics don't have the first clue about this process.
You might be right about that. Yes, it could very slightly affect compression ratios, but not enough to feel any difference over the other harmonics generated by the firing order. Without 4 wideband o2 sensors and per-injector tuning, you'd be splitting hairs chasing after it. There should be less than a few thousandths of an inch of variance in the piston height which would barely affect the numbers in comparison to things like the crushed head gasket which is around .030" on average. The hole in the gasket is bigger than the bore, too.
Couldn't you just put everything together and fill the cylinder area with liquid while valves are closed at tdc, then again while valves are closed at bdc and measure the difference in volume. The only variable not present is the spark plug. But the ratio would be the same since both measurements didn't have the spark plug.
The rings will leak anything you put in there into the crankcase. The combustion chamber is not air tight. There are ring gaps, oil holes in the pistons, and a side clearance on the pistons that will ensure it constantly leaks while you're trying to take measurements.
Yep, well sort of. Look at the bore on #1 compared to 2, 3, 4... For my purposes here on TH-cam, this Hyundai-Mitsu frankenblock is the gift that just keeps on giving! So much of it is abnormal that it's the perfect example to teach with.
Yeah, apparently I did do that, didn't I? Depth. I gave you a hole instead of a cylinder to measure. I mean, it's logical, but at the same time I see exactly how that's confusing. It's easier to bore x bore x height x .7854, tho... Have a slice of pi. :)
Most math equations use r=radius h=height and usually d=diameter, not depth. Depth is the same thing as height. I just flipped the letters like a dumbass because I was talking about a hole. A hole is just a cylinder on paper after all. You were doing it right. It was my mistake. I should have used h.
Why not just with an assembled engine, put cylinder pointing straight up. Put piston all the way to TDC. Fill cylinder with measured amount of oil through spark plug. Then put piston all the way down, fill cylinder again with measured amount of oil. No you add the additional oil volume with piston down to when it was TDC to get the total volume of the entire area and you also have the compressed volume area, so then you have the compression ratio.
sdowney717 Because it will leak past the rings. It only takes 11 drops of a fluid to equal 1 ml (1 cc). You actually won't get as accurate of a measurement than you will by doing the math… and you won't be able to account for the volume of the spark plug. If the rings made a perfect seal, and if the spark plug volume didn't matter to you, then your suggestion would work. It will get you in the ballpark, but it's not how the engineers would do it. Engineers don't like getting oily.
Seal the piston to cylinder with a heavy grease, the oil will not leak through quickly. To make this work, may have to remove piston and pack the rings with the grease.
Jafro, I heard that some cranks are offset from the cylinder bores a few milimeters to improve the leverage of the force applied by the combustion, just like piston pins. When that happens, the crank's stroke is not necessarily the same that is swept. Do you know if there's any offset at all at the crank of 4G63's?
Interesting. I don't know if they do? I've never heard anything about that before applying to a 4g63 so I'm inclined to say they don't... but I really don't know for sure? I don't think I even have the equipment necessary to measure that?
Tier-3 Macintosh Technical Coordinator at a short-staffed private University. Trust me, I stay challenged. I have to work on this channel in my spare time. This is how I relax and un-wind.
Nope. Started with a 420A, then a D15B7, then turbo 4g63 and never looked back. No offense to the NA cars, I just couldn't do another NA motor after I experienced boost.
***** do you have an email address i can send you some information on i am doing a build for a ford pinto engine and it would be great for information sharing :)
Where did you get the dial gauges & stands? I’m prepping to do a rear differential rebuild, and I can’t find good yet inexpensive dial gauges or stands to measure the back-lash. Thanks...
It's hard to find decent precision measuring equipment for a good price, you really do get what you pay for. Honestly you're best bet is to try and find a reputable seller on eBay and try and get some quality used precision equipment. Theres some really good deals on there, I bought a whole set of Starett micrometers and vernier callipers for really cheap on a bid. I had them checked at our shop and they were all smack on when referencing to gauge blocks. The stand you can go with pretty much anything as long as its magnetic and is sturdy, I think I paid 20 bucks at a local shop and its great. Im not jafro but thought I'd shed some light on some recent personal experience.
Like thirtytwoslim said, it is difficult to get them cheap. I also opted to buy some of my tools on ebay, and you really do have a chance of ending up with junk when you do that. My dial bore gauge isn't perfect, but I know why and I can work around it to keep everything accurate. Older stuff is better than the newer stuff. MSC tools is a great place to find what you're looking for. In addition, the stands... what I show here are 2 harbor freight magnetic bases combined into one magical tool. They have the vise-grip style clamping base with the gooseneck thing in that kit, and if you un-screw the stand, you can screw the gooseneck thing right into the base. I use it more than any of my other stands. The part with all the rods and clamps... is so cheap on that model that slightly over-torquing them strips out the fasteners. Again, reinforcing that the old stuff works better than the new stuff. I've been through several of those stands because of junk fasteners... but the gooseneck thing is awesome. It takes a fraction of the time and effort to set up. You just have to buy both kits to make it.
+Út Tí You want to measure the travel distance of the piston stop-to-stop in order to determine stroke. You can measure the piston travel. You can look up the manufacturer's rod length. If it's a popular engine, you might find someone's posted the specifications. If it's an unknown engine, measuring it is your best bet.
Yes, stroke. I don't know why I said rod length? You would want the crank's stroke. Rod length would be irrelevant. I would imagine the 1-cylinder you're working on is a small engine. You would want to use a dial gauge that has the range to measure low to high points of the stroke. Zero it down lowest point, raise the piston up highest point, what's on the gauge is your stroke. The trick is to use a measuring tool that can capture the whole range of motion.
Hey Jafro, my 4G93T engine came stock as an 1,834cc engine with 9.5:1 comp ratio pistons, the engine was rebuilt with 8:1 comp ratio pistons, theoretically this increases the displacement, but is it by a measurable amount? or is it only a tiny amount. not expecting you to do any math, just your opinion :)
Swept volume is all that's used to calculate displacement. Even when the dish of the piston changes, the bore and stroke are all that's used to calculate swept volume. Imagine that the top and bottom of the swept cylinder are in the shape of the top of the piston. The cylinder in-between stays the same volume because the bottom and top of the cylinder are the same.
Thank you for this, I knew the math with the volumes but it really helps to see all the measuring techniques executed!
When measuring your chamber size, accounting for the space below your valves, "...use gravity from whatever planet your from." Thanks for the humor!
Even if humor was missing, I'd still watch, but these little goodies help.
Fantastic work Jafro, I'm not an engine builder by any means but i did stay at a holiday inn express last night!
Caboose definitely deserves some wet food. Thanks for ur time and energy Jafro. Glad to see you're back at it. Best production automotive videos on TH-cam as far as I'm concerned.
I have contacted youtube and demanded they allow multiple thumbs up just for your channel. I've learned a lot here. Very practical and detailed.
im not a mechanic and i love this kind of KNOWLEDGE sharing videos like what he did. but i wanna know what is the reason why some DISLIKE this video?are there something wrong with the calculation?can someone please give me a reason.
GOOD DAY ALL : I'm a technician in the aerospace industry from Toronto Ontario Canada , I've seen the video . If you'd also like to calculate you're compression pressure is goes like this . To-days atmospheric pressure (ie 14.6 psi times you're compression ratio ie 9.5 :1 = 138.7 psi . Each day there will be a slight difference in compression pressure . If you live at sea level you'l have the highest compression pressure , if you live in "Denver Colorado" you might want some nice 11.5 :1 pistons to off set the atmospheric problem . Bye Bye all and have a nice day ! ! !
I haven't seen any perfect videos like this on TH-cam ..Thanks for your level of deep explanation..Thanks a lot..
I got a Honda Super blackbird and all the things you have done I will try on the bike's engine. I spoke to an old man who used to tune exhausts for formula one cars in the old days. He said that they would make the headers out of copper pipe because it was easy to cut. Fit a long length to each cylinder. Start the engine and shine a strobe light down the pipe. Where the light shone on the pulse from the cylinder, they would know where to cut the pipe. They would measure the distance using a long piece of wire which they would slide inside the pipe to the pulse.
Hadrian Smith Wow, that is a really awesome trial-and-error shortcut that saves an awful lot of math. That old man was a wise old man with a timing light.
if it were possible to give more than one like for a video, this would be it! Extremely brilliant explanation! Textbook perfect!
Just came across your video about calculating compression ratio.
I usually did direct measurements to total cylinder volume plus sweep volume using burette filled with low viscosity oil such as ATF or 0w-20 oil.
Oil poured through spark plug hole on both TDC and BDC.
Yes it's messy, but more convenient (at least for me).
Say hello to the new math whiz! Enjoyed the video because I am a math major and I like these type things. Do I or will I remember it? No. That’s why you take notes. That way you have examples and even descriptions of things. Maybe your memory is infallible. Good for you! Mine isn’t so I take notes! You do what you have to to get where you want!👍🏻😊
Wow man that was some impressive mind boggling information. I had to pause and rewind this video so many to actually concentrate and understand what was happening. Great job man... Keep it up.
Ahhh, a new Jafromobile Video my memorial weekend is now complete...
if it were possible to give more than one like for a video, this would be it! Extremely brilliant explanation! Textbook perfect! pi*r*r*h!
I just wake up with my android TH-cam notification and was forced to watch this. Really good video. Nice math bro. Keep the good work.
I've made these comments on another similar video, but may be of help to some here.
First, check out on-line chemist/laboratory suppliers for cheap burettes - makes it much easier for CCing.
Use a long piece of plexi', or similar material, for the plate as you can do an entire head at the same time - don't forget to align the holes correctly.
Some prefer to drill a couple of larger holes that match a couple of the bolt drillings, dropping a couple of the bolts into these will align the plate and prevent movement.
Use a syringe with a small opening to run a small bead around the chamber/bore to seal it - I've seen some 'professionals' use thick smears that can make CC's difference as the plate is held off the sealing surface - you just need enough to seal.
You will get a much more accurate figure for the piston's bowl or protrusion by using a DTI and lowering it in the bore a known amount and taking the relevalent swept volume from the total figure - especially useful if any part of the piston is above the deck at TDC.
A little food colouring will make the fluid much easier to see - handy if the lighting or your eyesight isn't the best.
Bore wear wil affect the actual swept volume - may be significant in some instances
Can't recall the other point.
Your work ethic is out of this world! Brilliant!!
Glad to see you're back, Jafro! Also happy to hear that the repair came in under what you anticipated. Hoisting a cold one in your direction!
Jafro - great video, glad you got your camera back mate :)
Finally i understand how to calculate this thing.
Because graham bell does not give you any picture why i should count this or that hehe.
Thanks a lot man!
Welcome back. Glad you got your camera all fixed up. How's it working since the repair? If you're happy, we're happy. Glad to see you're back to normal. :)
It's working great! Some of the footage I shot shows the failure occurring and I'm sure it's evident in this video... but all the new footage is VERY clean. I like it! I'm hard at work on the next one.
ouch!!!!! my brain hurts... glad to see your up and running again.
YAY! So happy to see you back in action Jafro. Cant wait for the next video already.
More Caboose cameos! Great videos as always. One day I'll have my own garage and be able to do some engine building. But for now... I'll just be a broke college kid doing his work outside in a parking lot.
gidday Jafromobile
How did I not find your channel sooner.
cane with good timing though as I'm about to embark on the all mighty
RB30/25Det-3.3lt Stroker.
now to see how many of your bids I can watch before sleepy byes.
Thanks Nate.
+Reality Performance You're still awake, aren't you?
+Jafromobile yes yes I am.
99% of your vids are all over TH-cam that other youtubers have put up.
BUT.
There is not one single video that has ANYTHING close to your am out of detail. Your good mate.
love the ya vids.
now to delete all the other videos I have saved from other people and reload them with yours.
keep up the good work.
Thank for all your hard work. Your videos have kept me thinking positive while being deployed and glad you can continue making videos
Thank you Jeffery! I know these videos mean a lot to many... and some of the very best messages I receive come from our men in uniform. The positive energy I receive is what keeps me going, too! Thank you for your service!
Now u need to show em how to get the corrected compression ratio.......... Awsome video fer sure
There's a link to a dynamic compression calculator in my description. Of course you need to know your valve timing events within a degree, but that's also why it's linked in my DOHC valve timing video. ;) That equation is far beyond the attention span of a TH-cam video. lol! The people who made it to the end of this one might appreciate it, though. :)
Jafro, great video very informative, I have been watching your videos for years and always enjoy them. I just completed my first year for my mechanical engineering degree and can appreciate all the work you put in blueprinting engines. I have seen this method done with the use of a thin bead of Vaseline cream around the circumference of the bore to seal the plexiglass to the cylinder head. Would that method have any benefit over this one or is it just unneeded? Im about to start doing something similar to my engine once I finish up with oil clearances
It's not just used as a means of sticking down the plexiglass. It fills the gap around the rings and prevents your test fluid from leaking down through the oil holes for the piston skirts that are behind the rings. kinduv like the stopper in a bathtub. If you use a viscous test fluid (unlike me and my lazy self), it won't drain fast enough to affect your measurements. A tenth of a CC in piston volume would barely dent the final compression numbers. I doubt I leaked that much alcohol, but I'm pretty sure that more than that evaporated. Alcohol is not what you want to use for this test, I was simply verifying an already-known number.
Where the vaseline test comes in REAL handy is when you've made changes to the pistons yourself, like cutting new fly cuts, polishing, or ceramic coating. Those techniques aren't part of the original piston's spec sheet unless they were done by the manufacturer, and in cases where they're not, you would need the most accurate means of measuring it. You'd use Vaseline and a non-evaporating test medium.
Glad to see you back in action Jafro.
Holy shite there's a cat in the door !! Very impressed and im guessing he likes fancy feast salmon or ocean whitefish?
What I don't get, is what are you going to do with the compression ratio later? Where the outcome is going to be used? Considering that I don't know how to tune an engine having EFI...
I was glad to see you got your camera back. Looks like you hardly missed a beat.
Just wondering why you left the compression so high on a turbo motor?
I didn't leave it that way... I intentionally maintained a previous engine builder's selection in order to keep it this way. It was intentional. A high compression engine makes more torque, more power than a lower compression engine under the same circumstances. It comes at a cost of losing stability in your fuel source, so you've gotta be on your toes with your tune. Little problems there can lead to big failures, so I will be on my toes tuning-wise, with white knuckles, enjoying all the extra torque steer and tire smoke. ;)
Jafro, so many of us study your videos as if it were the ultimate religion.
(-well, it basically is) hahaha
Thank you for all the time and effort you put in to make these videos!!
Hopefully we’ll see you at the next dsm shootout in ohio!! 🤘🏻
Thanks for being so informative, comprehensive and easy to follow. Very helpful! Thanks for passing it on!
Ever considered doing a dynamic compression ratio video?
I always revisit this video for reference. Thanks Jafro!
Thank God for online compression calculator's.
Great you have your beloved camera back :-))
All your calculations wizzed past my brain at lightspeed, although i could see where your were going with it.
I did think you did the head volume oddly, a large hole in the plastic and syringe the measured fluid in untill no air is present, thats how ive allways understood it.
Perhaps i was confused........ thats normal lol :-))
Ok thanks for the headache and nose bleed to much thinking for me I hate thinking but great vid
Nice work in explaining compression Jafro :) My 64/63 build motor iam sure is high compression and only runs well on 93oct. I am still new at tunning but looking forward to see what it does at the track.
bloodly hell. if my camera came in a box and wrap up like that i would take it back.
Glad to see you back in action jafro!
I feel shattered now. Mind blown. Steam coming out of my ears. Only it all makes kinda sense. Mk2 jag next week is going to be even more fun.
Glad to see Jafromobile is in full force
Cristal clear. Wonderful video (as always)
Here's a like for caboose man, glad you're back so quick!
Hey Jafro, Im glad everything is ok now an you got your camera all fix. Love you videos as always. Keep it up.
Summet.com has a calculator that you just fill out the info, and it tells you the comp ratio.
You should have your engine Walnut shell blasted to clean it up.
That shiny head is going to make everything else look bad.
Only the inside is shiny... ;)
The calculator at Summit isn't going to give you any degree of accuracy if you don't measure all of the parts you're using. It will never give you results as accurate as the method demonstrated in this video, but it still uses these same basic underlying formulas to calculate your compression (albeit accurate to a tenth of a decimal place). It won't help you calculate compresion without access to the internet, but what it DOES do which is very valuable... is help you calculate compression for parts you don't have... to help you develop ideas for a build. In that regard, it's an extremely valuable tool.
Online calculators just put makeup on the exact same math that's in this video. ;)
Sir another great video! Thank you
What about your dynamic compression ratio by adding inlet timing and boost pressure to the equation?
I really enjoy your videos. The wealth of knowledge is reason enough but the quality of the editing and narration is of equal depth.
So, I have started to research some editing programs that do not cost to much but are feature packed. The few I have test drove do not have more than 2X FF and seemed to want to cut the resolution in half upon import.
Any suggestions for a program that works on Win7?
if you engine is already completly assembled is there a way to roughly calculate the cr. by say using a syringe to fill the combustion chamber with something like atf at TDC the amount of fluid entered would then be the total combustion chamber i know what my piston dish vloume is so i could subtrack that from the value i get to get the cylinder head volume. and then the swept volume being known would be able to give you the CR no? obviously not as accurate as a pre assembly check but doable right?
Very Very Very helpful! one of my favorites on youtube - keep up your amazing content
VERY informative! You seem to know math very well, smart dude you are!! Thanks for the vid.
Hopefully I watched the video right. Would there be any merits in terms of chasing the last few horsepower from a relatively small displacement engine in doing a second round of machine work trying to chase down near perfect values? As I understand it one of the major goals of a blueprinted race engine is achieving consistent values on each cylinder.
xpoohx105 That is indeed one of the goals of blueprinting. What you can't perfect, you can often tune around. You need to know where the differences are in order to do that. So if there are any variations, there are multiple approaches to dealing with them, and machining is only one of them.
If given the opportunity to perfect each value and match all cylinders equally, all it does is simplify the tune. I think my Hyundai will be a prime example of this, because of the age, wear, and condition of its worn-out re-used parts, there's only so much I'm willing to machine. It would better me to start over. But the work I did dialed it in a hell of a lot closer than where it was. I'm continuing to use the un-even, worn out rings and bores to my advantage. It's how I've managed to run 22 PSI through this thing at 10:1 compression without blowing it apart. It's set up intentionally loose, and in a well-overbored out-of-spec block for a simple reason. Because it works.
Sometimes a blueprint just shows you what you need to fix. Sometimes the blueprint simply demonstrates why certain things work when they shouldn't, or when everyone else says they shouldn't. Is there merit in making every value match across all cylinders? Yes. Absolutely. Especially when your time and money resources are endless. But match spec? Nah. Not so much. Sometimes you should even avoid it. Either way, you can tune around it, matching everything just makes it that much easier to tune.
Welcome back Jafromobile.
Awsome videos! Very happy your back!
wow its like watchin bill ni the sicence guy on engine degreaser!! im not that smart butt i would like to learn.nice job to all involved!!!
this is the easy part. What's hard is coming up with a formula to calculate expected cranking psi depending on compression ratio and elevation. (No it isn't CRx14.7 or (CR-1)x14.7 ) Oh, also it would have to compensate for pressure lost past the ring end gap. With such a formula we would know how far off our engine is from the ideal (which would give us an idea if it is time to do an engine rebuild).
True, and you're talking about *dynamic compression*. I left a link to a dynamic compression calculator in the description because it's too much math for the average user/viewer to learn. The ring gap issue is splitting hairs when you can do a leak down test to check the rings' health. If you were going to take an engine apart and measure ring gaps for your formula because they were suspect (and a leak down test didn't conclusively indicate it), to me it doesn't make sense not to go ahead and rebuild it while you're in there. That's a lot of work.
I don't see any link to a dynamic compression calculator. I deal with motorcycles so taking the cylinder off to measure ring end gap is not a huge job. And most bike riders don't have the kit for doing a leak down test. It's much easier just to measure the cranking psi and then have an idea of how worn the rings are.
OOPS! Sorry! Fixed it. OMG I intended to have that in there all these years. I think I might have put it into my valve timing video? Because that's what offsets your static compression, it's overlap and the timing of valvetrain events that affect your dynamic compression. I have a DOHC valve timing video where I talk about that.
No I'm taling about a calculator that no one yet has figured out how to make. How to know the ideal cranking psi when you know the compression ratio and the ring end gap when the rings were newly installed.
That's pretty close to 10:1, what turbo and fuel are you going with on this build Jefro?
Excellent video but I still don't get it..
Can you determine engine output with compression given the Air, Fuel and Ignition system is perfect and known factory specs?
After 222,097 miles my Acura G25a inline 5 still has 92% of it's factory compression. Factory compression was 206 PSI, my average of all 5 cylinders is 188 PSI. 190+185+190+190+185=940/5=188. 206-8.75%=18.25 difference. Proof = 206-188= 18. Only 8.75% of original compression lost after 23 years, 222K miles and unknown abuse.
I know there are other variables involved in calculating output (fuel, air flow, ignition, friction, pumping, temperature variables) but given I have brand new injectors, premium in the tank, all new sensors, normal friction and an entirely new ignition system,
176hp FROM FACTORY - 8.75% (amount of compression loss) = 15.4hp loss? So I have 162hp left? Probably an indirect calculation. Please let me know! Trying too guess before I dyno test it.
While it's fair to estimate that way, the other variables part will get the best of even your dyno results. Unless you started with a stock dyno pull from the factory to get that 176hp... you won't be anywhere close. For example, my 5.0L F-150 makes 390hp, but a dyno will only see 280 at the wheels if I'm lucky. It has a 6-speed automatic, a transfer case, and a 5" factory lift adding pinion angle. Power at the crank vs. power at the wheels is different on every drivetrain. A dyno pull won't measure power output at the crankshaft. It measures how much of that factory horsepower rating which is often just the engine's output-hits the pavement. I don't want to discourage you from going to the dyno, though. Add that 8.75% to your results and estimate what it could have been new. Compression is indeed responsible for output. It's not linear, like you said, there are other variables at play... but your suggestion for estimating it is reasonable.
I've only subscribed to one other person on TH-cam. Nice job. I will search your videos but want to know how to pick performance parts to build a twincharged 4 cylinder engine.
+Randy Higginbotham No spoilers, but go look at the Eaton supercharger and plenum on a 3800 Pontiac/Buick. Great minds think alike.
Jaffro what is the best compression to run for a daily 600hp-ish evo IX on 91 octane?
I thought you said cylinder bores are slightly tapered. Wouldn't that slightly affect the volume calculations you're doing or do your previous bore measurements already factor that in?
Yep. Slightly. Just like you said. We're talking slightly to the ten thousandth of an inch, so anything happening at the tenth position will remain completely un-affected. Egg and taper would play a negligible affect on static compression ratios if the engine is actually capable of running.
Love the vids. you flashed a screenshot of a blueprinting spreadsheet...can you make that template available to us!?
Awesome stuff. I was wondering, though????? Do you have an explanatory video on tuned exhausts? I have a V4 engine, and the exhaust plumbing (4 into 1) is insane, in the name of neatness. I was going to fill the whole lot with water, then divide it by 4, to get a singular volume. Do you have anything on here to shed some light? Great work...
That's exactly how you'd want to do it. Tuned exhausts would normally go through the liquid displacement test runner-by-runner during assembly, and a tuned exhaust would be sized according to displacement and intake port volumes if you're trying to maximize the flow per-runner, but the liquid displacement test and a notepad is the best way to do it short of flowbench time spent matching the flow rates to the rest of the head ports.
Us turbo guys have it easy, we do it based off of manifold pressure and turbo exhaust housing sizing. NA setups benefit more from tuned exhaust runners than the boosted crowd. I should have done a liquid displacement test on the head I ported, but it's going back in the car in about 10 minutes. :\
Just to clarify something, ...no...the Ducati, on my profile is, as obvious, a V twin. This is for my V4 Honda. It's great to get some affirmation from you. You're on the ball, to say the least, and I value your opinion. As i'm sure you're aware, it can be hard to find someone to 'bounce off', when you're trying to figure something out. And, hey....if you smear your finger over a bar of soap, and touch the water, when doing your head displacement, it'll break the surface tension of the water. May help...... Thanks again.
soooo i have a question for ya,,i had a motor that had 300 psi on a compression test,,i know thats crazy comp,,but it ran looks a beast,,so what kinda deck hight and other stuff would u need for that?
thnx for all your hard work!!!
Nice video! DSM's are one of the few things that can make me do math these days :P So Im curious since your total combustion chamber volume is 565.2596 cc's if you multiply that by 4 that gives a total of 2261.0384. Does that mean you have a 2.2 liter engine? Or is displacement based solely on the measurement of V1?
Yes, the displacement is based solely on V1. You got it!
If the actual compression is dictated by the position of the top compression ring (And 2nd too), wouldn't top ring placing affect the overall comp ratio? You know, like some diesels have a thick crown. Or am I missing s/thing:)
The way I tested my dish volume included that gap.
That gap is about a thousandth of an inch. If you want to calculate it, you can do the formula twice, once with the bore and once for the piston, use the depth from the deck to the #1 compression ring, subtract the small result from the big one.
You can do the cc conversion if you want to make the number look bigger, but I think you'll see why that value isn't included. Rings don't make a perfect seal, either. The amount of air that leaks past the rings during the compression stroke will also not be a part of the compression ring calculation shown here, but it will have a larger affect on the static compression value than the piston to cylinder wall gap on top of the #1 compression ring.
The static value represents the potential... a best-case scenario. It's never the real-world result of the build. Dynamic compression involves valve timing. In order to calculate dynamic compression, you first have to start by calculating your static compression ratio. You can't do that until you measure your valve timing events. Blow-by is extremely difficult to accurately measure, but you can get a pretty good idea of how close you came to what's on paper with a compression test once it's in the car and broken in. By this stage, you won't be worried about that gap. ;)
I hope this helps.
Thanks for demystifying this for me. Very helpful!
nice drawing at the end!
welcome back Jafro...where the amazing tunes? thanks.. that was great
My math teacher didn't come with a porn soundtrack, but he was young and pretty popular. 'pretty sure some of the ladies in class wish he did... but I find it a bit distracting when I'm doing math. ;) Thanks for staying tuned in over the years!
I will admit, I did not finish the calculations for each cylinder, However given the cylinder specs you provided, Would that mean your total CC would be in the ballpart of 2261cc rather then the 1997cc factory claims? Or would the 1997 be the CC of the block itself, Not including the 47cc claimed head combustion area?
Kyle Milford The advertised displacement is the swept volume. :)
Q: Would/could variations in piston height to deck affect a smooth idle even though only a tiny difference in compression? Also, I be willing to bet 80% of supposedly trained and experienced auto mechanics don't have the first clue about this process.
You might be right about that. Yes, it could very slightly affect compression ratios, but not enough to feel any difference over the other harmonics generated by the firing order. Without 4 wideband o2 sensors and per-injector tuning, you'd be splitting hairs chasing after it. There should be less than a few thousandths of an inch of variance in the piston height which would barely affect the numbers in comparison to things like the crushed head gasket which is around .030" on average. The hole in the gasket is bigger than the bore, too.
Sorry I can not figure out what you did in V3 would you help me? My piston diameter 83 mm piston height 0.1 mm how can I do ?
83mm x 83mm x .1mm x .7854 = 541 cubic millimeters. A cubic centimeter is 10x10x10mm or 1,000 mm. So your V3 layer is .54106206 cc's. ;)
awesome work happy to see u got your camera fixed :)
Couldn't you just put everything together and fill the cylinder area with liquid while valves are closed at tdc, then again while valves are closed at bdc and measure the difference in volume. The only variable not present is the spark plug. But the ratio would be the same since both measurements didn't have the spark plug.
The rings will leak anything you put in there into the crankcase. The combustion chamber is not air tight. There are ring gaps, oil holes in the pistons, and a side clearance on the pistons that will ensure it constantly leaks while you're trying to take measurements.
@@Jafromobile ahhhhhh. Well thanks. You seem like an awesome dude. Definitely one of my favorite youtubers.
The math lost me but i got an idea on following it! and i am working on a turbo engine.
Nice volume tutorial, any chance you can teach me some differential equations?
Glad to see you back with your amazing videos... Keep up the great work Jafro!!
So cyls 2 and 3 are higher compression and longer stroke? It's two engines in one!
Yep, well sort of. Look at the bore on #1 compared to 2, 3, 4... For my purposes here on TH-cam, this Hyundai-Mitsu frankenblock is the gift that just keeps on giving! So much of it is abnormal that it's the perfect example to teach with.
Nice video; thanks so much!
Formula for a cylinder is: (pie)(r^2)(h)...is your (d) the height?
Yeah, apparently I did do that, didn't I? Depth. I gave you a hole instead of a cylinder to measure. I mean, it's logical, but at the same time I see exactly how that's confusing. It's easier to bore x bore x height x .7854, tho... Have a slice of pi. :)
Jafromobile...ohhh...d stands for depth...I don't why I thought it meant diameter...my bad...
Most math equations use r=radius h=height and usually d=diameter, not depth. Depth is the same thing as height. I just flipped the letters like a dumbass because I was talking about a hole. A hole is just a cylinder on paper after all. You were doing it right. It was my mistake. I should have used h.
so glad ur back
You are the best Jafro!
thanks ,we'r waiting for next video .
Why not just with an assembled engine, put cylinder pointing straight up. Put piston all the way to TDC. Fill cylinder with measured amount of oil through spark plug.
Then put piston all the way down, fill cylinder again with measured amount of oil.
No you add the additional oil volume with piston down to when it was TDC to get the total volume of the entire area and you also have the compressed volume area, so then you have the compression ratio.
sdowney717 Because it will leak past the rings. It only takes 11 drops of a fluid to equal 1 ml (1 cc). You actually won't get as accurate of a measurement than you will by doing the math… and you won't be able to account for the volume of the spark plug. If the rings made a perfect seal, and if the spark plug volume didn't matter to you, then your suggestion would work. It will get you in the ballpark, but it's not how the engineers would do it. Engineers don't like getting oily.
Seal the piston to cylinder with a heavy grease, the oil will not leak through quickly.
To make this work, may have to remove piston and pack the rings with the grease.
Jafro, I heard that some cranks are offset from the cylinder bores a few milimeters to improve the leverage of the force applied by the combustion, just like piston pins. When that happens, the crank's stroke is not necessarily the same that is swept. Do you know if there's any offset at all at the crank of 4G63's?
Interesting. I don't know if they do? I've never heard anything about that before applying to a 4g63 so I'm inclined to say they don't... but I really don't know for sure? I don't think I even have the equipment necessary to measure that?
Bruno, foque em se formar....
a lot of information here!
What do you do from 9-5? Do you work in a machine shop? Or are you naturally gifted? Doesn't really matter just curious. You smart!
Tier-3 Macintosh Technical Coordinator at a short-staffed private University. Trust me, I stay challenged. I have to work on this channel in my spare time. This is how I relax and un-wind.
Awesome man i like ur vids u explain everything very good that's real cool
by the way, do you know eisntein?
Super smart about engines
Excellent video , have you ever done NA setups ? using the 4G63 engine
Nope. Started with a 420A, then a D15B7, then turbo 4g63 and never looked back. No offense to the NA cars, I just couldn't do another NA motor after I experienced boost.
*****
do you have an email address i can send you some information on i am doing a build for a ford pinto engine and it would be great for information sharing :)
Where did you get the dial gauges & stands? I’m prepping to do a rear differential rebuild, and I can’t find good yet inexpensive dial gauges or stands to measure the back-lash. Thanks...
It's hard to find decent precision measuring equipment for a good price, you really do get what you pay for. Honestly you're best bet is to try and find a reputable seller on eBay and try and get some quality used precision equipment. Theres some really good deals on there, I bought a whole set of Starett micrometers and vernier callipers for really cheap on a bid. I had them checked at our shop and they were all smack on when referencing to gauge blocks. The stand you can go with pretty much anything as long as its magnetic and is sturdy, I think I paid 20 bucks at a local shop and its great. Im not jafro but thought I'd shed some light on some recent personal experience.
Like thirtytwoslim said, it is difficult to get them cheap. I also opted to buy some of my tools on ebay, and you really do have a chance of ending up with junk when you do that. My dial bore gauge isn't perfect, but I know why and I can work around it to keep everything accurate.
Older stuff is better than the newer stuff. MSC tools is a great place to find what you're looking for. In addition, the stands... what I show here are 2 harbor freight magnetic bases combined into one magical tool. They have the vise-grip style clamping base with the gooseneck thing in that kit, and if you un-screw the stand, you can screw the gooseneck thing right into the base. I use it more than any of my other stands. The part with all the rods and clamps... is so cheap on that model that slightly over-torquing them strips out the fasteners. Again, reinforcing that the old stuff works better than the new stuff. I've been through several of those stands because of junk fasteners... but the gooseneck thing is awesome. It takes a fraction of the time and effort to set up. You just have to buy both kits to make it.
as you want to calculate 1 -cylinder engine , but do not know stroke crankshaft is. does not calculate winged him
+Út Tí You want to measure the travel distance of the piston stop-to-stop in order to determine stroke. You can measure the piston travel. You can look up the manufacturer's rod length. If it's a popular engine, you might find someone's posted the specifications. If it's an unknown engine, measuring it is your best bet.
+Jafromobile stroke piston mean distance from the highest point to the lowest point , sir
Yes, stroke. I don't know why I said rod length? You would want the crank's stroke. Rod length would be irrelevant. I would imagine the 1-cylinder you're working on is a small engine. You would want to use a dial gauge that has the range to measure low to high points of the stroke. Zero it down lowest point, raise the piston up highest point, what's on the gauge is your stroke. The trick is to use a measuring tool that can capture the whole range of motion.
+Jafromobile
thank you
Hey Jafro, my 4G93T engine came stock as an 1,834cc engine with 9.5:1 comp ratio pistons, the engine was rebuilt with 8:1 comp ratio pistons, theoretically this increases the displacement, but is it by a measurable amount? or is it only a tiny amount. not expecting you to do any math, just your opinion :)
Swept volume is all that's used to calculate displacement. Even when the dish of the piston changes, the bore and stroke are all that's used to calculate swept volume. Imagine that the top and bottom of the swept cylinder are in the shape of the top of the piston. The cylinder in-between stays the same volume because the bottom and top of the cylinder are the same.