Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a Piston ring filer: amzn.to/3v3tz7J AEM ECU: bit.ly/D4Ainfinity5 AEM water-meth: bit.ly/2zrOkSp?D4A... AEM boost controllers: bit.ly/D4AtruboostX AEM wideband AFR gauge: bit.ly/D4Axserieswb
I just wanted to say, as a mechanical engineering student who is rebuilding his first engine, your content has been extremely valuable. Thanks a lot man.
I have rebuilt engines, and work for an automotive manufacturer… never in my life have I ever talked about ring ga with anyone. This man speaks needed knowledge! I totally agree with you.
If you want it done properly, you should have all three oil rings separated by a little on a non thrust surface side of the pistons, and the oil rings should never be filed. Unless a specific manufacturer says to. These look like they are at about (if looking at the top of the piston), seems like 10 o clock, 8:30, and 6:30. But it’s hard to tell with that terrible picture. I would assume
I build cars for a living and I still love watching and learning from your videos. I may not learn a ton from each video, but typically you mention at least one thing I didn't know before watching the video.
I am not an engineer, just love learning about the engine. I had absolutely no idea how critical the ring gap is. Especially when boosted! Thank you for your work!
Love the boost school series! I currently drive a factory Boosted car that has been turned for double+ psi and with over 150K miles it's in need of a rebuild plus I think my head gasket is going out. Needless to say the information in this series will definitely help me out along the way.
The smaller gap on the top ring is interesting. On big marine diesels they have grooves in the top ring to have a controlled pressure leakage so the load is more evenly spread between the two rings
Yeah, that's gas porting, which is supposed to prevent combustion pressure from leaking past the rings and diluting the oil. The absolute worst thing to do to an engine is pressurize the crankcase, especially on boost. Diesels are terrible on oil dilution since all the hydrocarbons get past the rings, so gas ported or gapless rings are a good idea for clean engine oil, which also prolongs the life of the turbos if they share the same oil.
One thing I felt could've been touched on, which you may have covered in a different video (correct me if you have done it in another video) is the role of each ring. Top ring is the fire control ring, this is designed to stop the flame front during the combustion process from getting between the piston and the cylinder walls. The middle ring is the compression ring, as the name suggests this is responsible for the majority of the actual compression process. The bottom ring stack is the oil control ring, these are only to control oil. and don't add anything to the compression/combustion process. Traditionally, before boosted engines were so common, the compression (second) ring had a smaller gap because it was believed that the gap in that was the most critical to how the car runs. Nowadays, they have since discovered about the combustion pressures being trapped between the two, mostly due to forced induction aggravating a problem that manufacturers weren't aware of.
Thank you so much for this video! Because I decided to only mildly turbocharged my engine I left it stock but still I wondered about ring gapping should I ever decide to build it and go high boost. This video saves me tons of time on tedious research because I know I can trust your information. Thanks again D4A for another high quality video!
I just mounted a grinder with a cutoff wheel on my bench and used that. I also gapped my rings slightly loose for NA and slightly tight for low-boost turbo application. From what I've heard we are still using very conservative values to determine ring gap when most modern engines are pretty happy to run much tighter.
It is great that you surprise us with your beautiful and useful videos every time. In fact, I do not have the expressive words in which to thank you for this wonderful amount of information about engineering and mechanics. Thank you very much for all that you provide.
Interesting you say to push the rings in with a piston that has no rings. I used a piston with only the 2nd ring on it to make sure the ring was square in the bore because the 2nd ring will prevent the piston from further going down into the cylinder, and it will be perfectly even on all sides.
We always use an electric bench grinder with the smoothest stone we have. works great but opposite of the manual cranking grinder, you need to be extremely light and careful you don't remove too much, as it goes fast. I've done this on all my Honda Jseries Performance engines whether our builds (daily driver j35a7 400-600whp Nitrous Turbo builds) or customers 400-1000hp engine builds. HalferLand Performance
Order them ten thousand over Four thousands per inch of bore. Oil rings are directional, butt the ends and see where they point , that will be facing to the top, and don't forget smooth out the ends or they will score the cylinders.Your videos are great, always find something useful.
Tolerance philosophy I was taught was to shoot for the middle of the spec. The smaller the difference in the spec the more critical it is. IE spec= .017-.026 shoot for .0215.
I do like to add that the failures of a to tight piston ring can vary from piston/ring to piston/ring. Some rings snap into pieces. Some butt up together and one part will press inn to the piston and the other will press out to the cylinder wall and you will have a deep score inside the cylinder which usually end up with a trashed block that no longer can be rebored and require sleeves. Sometimes if the fitment it just right it will just cause a insane amount of heat and eventually faliure. and the best case scenario when the fitment is loose then the ring can jump on top of itself.
Nice love that you can learn so much on youtube, haven't done an engine rebuild yet, but I want to, by buying some junker. I have done a top end rebuild after blowing my timing belt going 70 mph down the hwy.🤬
a good example to show compression adding heat is those compression fire pistons used in survival packs to start a fire just by smacking a piston in a tube with something flamable like cloth inside the tube.they have glass ones great for showing compression creating heat
i think another key is to install piston ring gaps in opposite directions to increase distance of gas escape route at lower temps. make them longer by the time the gas tries to escape so when the piston is receiving pressure from the gas till the bottom dead end the gas is still trying its way put of the piston rings. helps pistons achieve working temp earlier and keeps dirts out longer too, no?
Good ol thermodynamics causing heat expansion... Not only is ring gap important but so is quench area (steel vs aluminum rods), piston to wall clearance, and piston to valve clearance
When I was 18-19 years old I have rebuilt my father's VW Sharan's VR6. Piston ring gap? RAZOR BALDE! He scrapped the car half year later :-D . The cause were valve lifters that were starting to seize...
What about gas ported rings? Gapless rings? Different ring materials? If you're going to turbocharge, then it's a good idea to replace not just the rings for performance ones, but the pistons themselves as well. Having the pistons matched to the cylinders guarantees a good fit, while also boring the cylinder out square to fit it.
Awesome awesome video, explained in simple English so easy to understand from video and narrative, no plans to do this but always wonder how to do it. Now mechanic's cant bullshit me.
rings are there to transfer heat away from the piston to the cylinder?????? thats a first time ive heard that. thought they were for compression and to prevent oil from getting into the combustion chamber ( along with the oil rings ) i know the rings themselves produce a damn lot of heat just threw friction with the cylinder walls. i tought the heat got transferred directly from the burning fuel into the cylinder walls. and oil squirters under the piston also used oil to cool the piston from underneath
Well lol, If talking "total seal" gapless rings the theory totally contradicts some of what was explained in this video.. I.e, you can run the gapless rings as your second ring as "ring flutter" (distortion of top ring from contained pressure between 1st and 2nd ring) takes a very precise set of circumstances to occur, and in the real world almost never happens. It's a theory and ring flutter is commonly a misdiagnosed issue, it can happen just very rarely ever, if ever been axactly proven to... N/A engine, gapless top ring for better induction draw. Turbo, either 1st or 2nd ring can be gapless but if on alcohol or fuel blends then better to run on second ring to reduce blow by to almost nil and no oil contamination or dilution. Also gapless rings can run large gaps for big boost (40psi+) but be street driven like drag week cars without the normal drawbacks of conventional rings gapped for big boost or 1000hp shots of nitrous.
@@DStead2239 "Total Seal®" is a business, they have the total seal piston rings, and having them or not having them would be valuable information that I think would be awesome for the D4A channel here.
@@DaveWithMS I know total seal is a company, hence I put it in quotations because what I said was quoting the company's contradiction to some of what was explained here. It's been covered on High performance academy video where Andre Simon (He's built, tuned, owned world record holding cars) interviewed Keith from total seal. th-cam.com/video/OFtf7l0B3kM/w-d-xo.html
u can turn the handle faster on the ring filer, his point was the heat will mess with the rings temper, but as long as u keep the ring cool itll b fine it would go real fast in running water
Any idea what the top ring gap should be on a 2" bore, air cooled engine, spinning upward of around 9000 revs! With higher than stock compression, and a ported head, I also added a performance cam, it may spend most it's time above 7000 rpm, and possibly as much as 9500, unless it's ideling it's probably not going to see below 5000, and being air-cooled, I'm thinking it can get a bit on the hot side, I went with . 008" and . 009" about . 002-.003" more than stock, if you can call a 50mm bug bore kit made in China, or some place in Asia, if I skrooed up, I can replace the whole Piston and jug for about $35 and about 30 minutes,. But it does. Have a good amount of compression! I'm concerned with the old starter even starting the thing! But I'll know tomorrow, I didn't want to anoy the neighborhood by firing the thing open header, I'm not accustomed to such a small engine!
Great video as always, if I could suggest one, I think a really in depth analysis of the changes Mazda made with their 1.6, 1.8 and 1.8vvt found in the first 2 generations of Miata. would be highly appreciated. in the Miata community there is a large misconception the differences are minimal, but they are certainly not, and it irritates me slightly when people dismiss the engineering that went into the later year engines. Mazda also used these engines in a number of other platforms, including collaborations with ford and Kia.
that why overbore stroke and bore ratio need wide ring gap to prevent engine failure. But if block and from aluminium with ceramic liner is not too problem because aluminium can be expanding more if piston ring made from ductile iron.
One thing I've never understood: I know on 2 stroke there are pins to keep the rings in position and avoid them to work with the open part on the cylinder ports. But why they aren't present on a 4 stroke? Isn't there the possibility for them to rotate with time and end up with the 2 gaps aligned and increase therefore the blow-by?
It’s because a 2 stroke doesn’t use valves it has ports on the bore that the edges of the ring can grab. So they put the gap where these ports are to avoid breaking rings or destroying the cylinder
the rings have a second gap aswell. it is the ring groove gap. cause if that gap is too small then you could have ring expand so much that it gets stuck on piston thus not sealing properly anymore
Dje se moze raditi honovanje bloka i ima li potrebe provjeravati prstenove koji su namijenjeni za motor kojem se radi generalno, nema nikakvih izmjena ? Odlican video inace 👌
a couple things i wish you would have covered here is the orientation the 1st and 2nd rings 1st ring gap at 12 o clock and the 2nd ring gap at 6 o clock so you less compression losses and are some rings direction specific, like can they go in any way or is upside down a thing or no? if im not mistaken the oil scraper ring for example, part of its job is to help clean the oil off the cylinder walls so you face less oil consumption im not an expert by any means and these are just a couple things ive heard/read somewhere before and wasnt 100% sure if it was accurate or not please correct me if im wrong
What if we machine the grove in the piston large enough to except both compression rings & in that way eliminate the end gap by having both rings in the same grove?
What do you do when you can’t get these specs? Like LR/Jaguar 5.0 made by ford. Service manual tells you how to measure everything, but not what the measurements should be.
Would adding a higher lift camshaft warrant a ring gap change? Probably a dumb question but I want to know for my rebuild, boring the engine .030" over and porting/polishing the heads as well if that makes any difference for a Ford 4.0 OHV v6 engine
Hello could you have a video about two stroke?If not could you please make it . All I found is a bits of information but still I can't get why they aren't used today
I have situations were the oil spacer on the third ring is too long and buts together before fitting snugly in the groove. This requires cutting 1 or 2 segments off the spacer so that the 2 rails can be correctly fitted
Question: Given all the correct engine maintenance is performed like frequent oil changes - and I want to MINIMIZE the oil burning in my engine. What kind of piston rings should I get? Should the piston gaps be minimized to the max that the specs allow it? Always wondered how this works! Thanks 👍🏻
they should be minimized to the min for best performance and emission but the gap is so small that if you're anywhere in the specs then you're good enough and you won't notice slightly different ring gap..
Which way do you turn the handle on the tool? Do you make the disk go upwards or downwards? It makes more sense to me to turn downwards so you're not holding the ring down while the disk is rotating upwards like in the video. Which side of the piston ring faces up while on the tool?
lul me who gapped the rings with a cutting wheel on my grinder and chamfered them too on my first home rebuild, engine is running strong tho , wish i had seen this first
Hey man I love your videos a lot, I've been subbed for some time now and because of your videos I've felt confident enough to buy my first motor for a rebuild (b18b). I just got the engine and even though I felt confident before I'm getting cold feet because I don't even really know what to do, my question is what should I do. I know what I want to build (maxpeeding turbo hoping for 250-300hp) but I don't know what I should do to make it happen. I want to build it right but at the same time I don't want to gap rings and tear apart my entire engine because I'm scared I'm not ready for that yet. If anyone out there has any suggestions please I'd love to hear them it's a 300k kms junkyard Honda b18 from a 01 integra and I have very little knowledge about engine rebuilding. Should I leave the head on and just turbo? Should I inspect connecting rods? I don't know and I'm searching for help. Thank you to anyone in advance.
I love your videos, So I have an Ej251sohc, 180k , Did the head gaskets at 100k. worked great until the car got old and my kids ran the F#@k out of it? Did a bad ass head job on it again? Then the kids tried engine breaking down the mountain with a plugged off pick up tube? My bad, never took the oil pan off. Got a regrind crank, h-beams,oil pump, oil cooler delete, lightened pistons and pins, a scale, file and............ what gap would you do? This is gona be good.
It shouldn't really stay in the gap by itself. You will feel it touching both sides and sliding across them, but you won't need yo to apply force for that.
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Thank you , but, what and where are the "T" and "R" marks for the oil rings at the 10:42 ? Thank you.
I just wanted to say, as a mechanical engineering student who is rebuilding his first engine, your content has been extremely valuable. Thanks a lot man.
I have rebuilt engines, and work for an automotive manufacturer… never in my life have I ever talked about ring ga with anyone. This man speaks needed knowledge! I totally agree with you.
@@StudlyDyl Okay, so, what and where are the "T" and "R" marks for the oil rings at the 10:41 ??
If you want it done properly, you should have all three oil rings separated by a little on a non thrust surface side of the pistons, and the oil rings should never be filed. Unless a specific manufacturer says to. These look like they are at about (if looking at the top of the piston), seems like 10 o clock, 8:30, and 6:30. But it’s hard to tell with that terrible picture. I would assume
I have 25+ years of experience in automotive technology and racing. Your video is the best teaching aid I have ever seen, well done!
Love the detail with the compression ratio equation.
So many misconceptions killed, in such a compact and understandable way.
I build cars for a living and I still love watching and learning from your videos. I may not learn a ton from each video, but typically you mention at least one thing I didn't know before watching the video.
If you build engines for a living do you mind if I ask for help/advice?
@@carsoncoopa well, you can ask, but I can't guarantee I have the answer.
I am not an engineer, just love learning about the engine. I had absolutely no idea how critical the ring gap is. Especially when boosted! Thank you for your work!
I just bought piston rings today, perfect timing!
Pun intended?
@@Jesus_Christ_loves_you_alot I don't think timing and piston rings are really related 👀
@@Minekeek Still engine related lol
@@Jesus_Christ_loves_you_alot I'll admit it I asked myself the same question as you 😂
Love the boost school series! I currently drive a factory Boosted car that has been turned for double+ psi and with over 150K miles it's in need of a rebuild plus I think my head gasket is going out. Needless to say the information in this series will definitely help me out along the way.
Literally never appreciated a channel more than this one. Love it.
Always a great channel to watch. Thanks for all of the hard work helping educate people.
The smaller gap on the top ring is interesting. On big marine diesels they have grooves in the top ring to have a controlled pressure leakage so the load is more evenly spread between the two rings
Yeah, that's gas porting, which is supposed to prevent combustion pressure from leaking past the rings and diluting the oil. The absolute worst thing to do to an engine is pressurize the crankcase, especially on boost. Diesels are terrible on oil dilution since all the hydrocarbons get past the rings, so gas ported or gapless rings are a good idea for clean engine oil, which also prolongs the life of the turbos if they share the same oil.
100% Straight forward, well organized information.
0% bullshit! Please keep at it.
"What is up, ENGINE-HEADS?!"
The best series on TH-cam
One thing I felt could've been touched on, which you may have covered in a different video (correct me if you have done it in another video) is the role of each ring. Top ring is the fire control ring, this is designed to stop the flame front during the combustion process from getting between the piston and the cylinder walls. The middle ring is the compression ring, as the name suggests this is responsible for the majority of the actual compression process. The bottom ring stack is the oil control ring, these are only to control oil. and don't add anything to the compression/combustion process.
Traditionally, before boosted engines were so common, the compression (second) ring had a smaller gap because it was believed that the gap in that was the most critical to how the car runs. Nowadays, they have since discovered about the combustion pressures being trapped between the two, mostly due to forced induction aggravating a problem that manufacturers weren't aware of.
You do a great job of explaining these engine concepts!
Thank you so much for this video! Because I decided to only mildly turbocharged my engine I left it stock but still I wondered about ring gapping should I ever decide to build it and go high boost. This video saves me tons of time on tedious research because I know I can trust your information. Thanks again D4A for another high quality video!
Thank you very mutch it went from a boring sunday to a interesting day there is always something to learn.
Digging the intro
I just mounted a grinder with a cutoff wheel on my bench and used that. I also gapped my rings slightly loose for NA and slightly tight for low-boost turbo application. From what I've heard we are still using very conservative values to determine ring gap when most modern engines are pretty happy to run much tighter.
you explain complicated concepts simply, your the best by far at what you do, well done !!!
Wake up kids... IT'S TIME FOR BOOST SCHOOL!!!
I see your tiktok comments everywhere now on TH-cam too?
@@magicstew45 Been in the TH-cam comments since years before TikTok existed. :D
It is great that you surprise us with your beautiful and useful videos every time. In fact, I do not have the expressive words in which to thank you for this wonderful amount of information about engineering and mechanics. Thank you very much for all that you provide.
Interesting you say to push the rings in with a piston that has no rings. I used a piston with only the 2nd ring on it to make sure the ring was square in the bore because the 2nd ring will prevent the piston from further going down into the cylinder, and it will be perfectly even on all sides.
I bought and used that exact ring file tool to file fit the rings in my Supercharged 5.8L(355ci) V8!
Fantastic content! Thank you for all the work and research you put into your videos!
We always use an electric bench grinder with the smoothest stone we have. works great but opposite of the manual cranking grinder, you need to be extremely light and careful you don't remove too much, as it goes fast. I've done this on all my Honda Jseries Performance engines whether our builds (daily driver j35a7 400-600whp Nitrous Turbo builds) or customers 400-1000hp engine builds. HalferLand Performance
I appreciate the insight into how careful one must be when filing and fitting. Great vid.
Thank you for create a detailed vídeo about ring gap, You are the only one that did it at this professional level!!!!! Great content on yout channel
thank you, I was thinking about piston rings gap for a while and now youtube throws me solution, thank you, very detailed video
These series of videos are really very good and well produced. Ive learnt so much !!
It’s nice to hear everything over again
I really want to do this all ways dreaming about this
This is one of the best video intros i have seen in a long time ;_;
keep up the great content
New intro? My boys moving up in the world
Order them ten thousand over
Four thousands per inch of bore.
Oil rings are directional, butt the ends and see where they point , that will be facing to the top, and don't forget smooth out the ends or they will score the cylinders.Your videos are great, always find something useful.
Great video as always. I recently came across gapless rings, still researching them.
Tolerance philosophy I was taught was to shoot for the middle of the spec. The smaller the difference in the spec the more critical it is. IE spec= .017-.026 shoot for .0215.
I do like to add that the failures of a to tight piston ring can vary from piston/ring to piston/ring.
Some rings snap into pieces.
Some butt up together and one part will press inn to the piston and the other will press out to the cylinder wall and you will have a deep score inside the cylinder which usually end up with a trashed block that no longer can be rebored and require sleeves.
Sometimes if the fitment it just right it will just cause a insane amount of heat and eventually faliure.
and the best case scenario when the fitment is loose then the ring can jump on top of itself.
Nice love that you can learn so much on youtube, haven't done an engine rebuild yet, but I want to, by buying some junker. I have done a top end rebuild after blowing my timing belt going 70 mph down the hwy.🤬
a good example to show compression adding heat is those compression fire pistons used in survival packs to start a fire just by smacking a piston in a tube with something flamable like cloth inside the tube.they have glass ones great for showing compression creating heat
i think another key is to install piston ring gaps in opposite directions to increase distance of gas escape route at lower temps. make them longer by the time the gas tries to escape so when the piston is receiving pressure from the gas till the bottom dead end the gas is still trying its way put of the piston rings. helps pistons achieve working temp earlier and keeps dirts out longer too, no?
Good ol thermodynamics causing heat expansion... Not only is ring gap important but so is quench area (steel vs aluminum rods), piston to wall clearance, and piston to valve clearance
This video helped explain why there are multiple rings on piston. thank you.
i cant wait for u to get to 1 million subs
I wish I could subscribe a million times.
When I was 18-19 years old I have rebuilt my father's VW Sharan's VR6. Piston ring gap? RAZOR BALDE! He scrapped the car half year later :-D . The cause were valve lifters that were starting to seize...
What about gas ported rings? Gapless rings? Different ring materials? If you're going to turbocharge, then it's a good idea to replace not just the rings for performance ones, but the pistons themselves as well. Having the pistons matched to the cylinders guarantees a good fit, while also boring the cylinder out square to fit it.
Love your videos!!!!
You sir are The Lord of the Rings.
Awesome awesome video, explained in simple English so easy to understand from video and narrative, no plans to do this but always wonder how to do it. Now mechanic's cant bullshit me.
rings are there to transfer heat away from the piston to the cylinder?????? thats a first time ive heard that. thought they were for compression and to prevent oil from getting into the combustion chamber ( along with the oil rings ) i know the rings themselves produce a damn lot of heat just threw friction with the cylinder walls. i tought the heat got transferred directly from the burning fuel into the cylinder walls. and oil squirters under the piston also used oil to cool the piston from underneath
What a good video!!!!
i am building an engine and i just have the service manual and not too much idea of what im doing !!
Thank!!!!
You should mention andor talk about total seal rings. How those work, what they do, and both advantages and disadvantages of them.
Well lol, If talking "total seal" gapless rings the theory totally contradicts some of what was explained in this video..
I.e, you can run the gapless rings as your second ring as "ring flutter" (distortion of top ring from contained pressure between 1st and 2nd ring) takes a very precise set of circumstances to occur, and in the real world almost never happens. It's a theory and ring flutter is commonly a misdiagnosed issue, it can happen just very rarely ever, if ever been axactly proven to...
N/A engine, gapless top ring for better induction draw. Turbo, either 1st or 2nd ring can be gapless but if on alcohol or fuel blends then better to run on second ring to reduce blow by to almost nil and no oil contamination or dilution.
Also gapless rings can run large gaps for big boost (40psi+) but be street driven like drag week cars without the normal drawbacks of conventional rings gapped for big boost or 1000hp shots of nitrous.
@@DStead2239 "Total Seal®" is a business, they have the total seal piston rings, and having them or not having them would be valuable information that I think would be awesome for the D4A channel here.
@@DaveWithMS I know total seal is a company, hence I put it in quotations because what I said was quoting the company's contradiction to some of what was explained here.
It's been covered on High performance academy video where Andre Simon (He's built, tuned, owned world record holding cars) interviewed Keith from total seal.
th-cam.com/video/OFtf7l0B3kM/w-d-xo.html
u can turn the handle faster on the ring filer, his point was the heat will mess with the rings temper, but as long as u keep the ring cool itll b fine it would go real fast in running water
I enjoy your voice. Reminds me of the dude from Django.
Any idea what the top ring gap should be on a 2" bore, air cooled engine, spinning upward of around 9000 revs! With higher than stock compression, and a ported head, I also added a performance cam, it may spend most it's time above 7000 rpm, and possibly as much as 9500, unless it's ideling it's probably not going to see below 5000, and being air-cooled, I'm thinking it can get a bit on the hot side, I went with . 008" and . 009" about . 002-.003" more than stock, if you can call a 50mm bug bore kit made in China, or some place in Asia, if I skrooed up, I can replace the whole Piston and jug for about $35 and about 30 minutes,. But it does. Have a good amount of compression! I'm concerned with the old starter even starting the thing! But I'll know tomorrow, I didn't want to anoy the neighborhood by firing the thing open header, I'm not accustomed to such a small engine!
感恩了解，謝謝分享！
i had to make a ring squarer on the lathe because the top of my pistons had a step
Great video as always,
if I could suggest one, I think a really in depth analysis of the changes Mazda made with their 1.6, 1.8 and 1.8vvt found in the first 2 generations of Miata. would be highly appreciated.
in the Miata community there is a large misconception the differences are minimal, but they are certainly not, and it irritates me slightly when people dismiss the engineering that went into the later year engines.
Mazda also used these engines in a number of other platforms, including collaborations with ford and Kia.
that why overbore stroke and bore ratio need wide ring gap to prevent engine failure. But if block and from aluminium with ceramic liner is not too problem because aluminium can be expanding more if piston ring made from ductile iron.
always check the engine manufacturer's specifications if possible, but these are good guidelines
You should make an explanation to how to clock rings on the piston ;)
best day ever ! ! !
One thing I've never understood: I know on 2 stroke there are pins to keep the rings in position and avoid them to work with the open part on the cylinder ports. But why they aren't present on a 4 stroke? Isn't there the possibility for them to rotate with time and end up with the 2 gaps aligned and increase therefore the blow-by?
You could probably aad the pins on a 4 stroke piston after all two stroke pins are just drilled(probably reamed as well) and pressed in
It’s because a 2 stroke doesn’t use valves it has ports on the bore that the edges of the ring can grab. So they put the gap where these ports are to avoid breaking rings or destroying the cylinder
damn really cool video man, everything very well explained
Can we please have a video talking about engine idling?
the rings have a second gap aswell. it is the ring groove gap. cause if that gap is too small then you could have ring expand so much that it gets stuck on piston thus not sealing properly anymore
Dje se moze raditi honovanje bloka i ima li potrebe provjeravati prstenove koji su namijenjeni za motor kojem se radi generalno, nema nikakvih izmjena ?
Odlican video inace 👌
Muito obrigado, ótimas explicações, continue compartilhando seu conhecimento. Deus abençoe
a couple things i wish you would have covered here is the orientation the 1st and 2nd rings
1st ring gap at 12 o clock and the 2nd ring gap at 6 o clock so you less compression losses
and are some rings direction specific, like can they go in any way or is upside down a thing or no?
if im not mistaken the oil scraper ring for example, part of its job is to help clean the oil off the cylinder walls so you face less oil consumption
im not an expert by any means and these are just a couple things ive heard/read somewhere before and wasnt 100% sure if it was accurate or not
please correct me if im wrong
What if we machine the grove in the piston large enough to except both compression rings & in that way eliminate the end gap by having both rings in the same grove?
8:10... wrong direction
8:17...correct direction...
Don't "choose a direction " ...file outside > in
Yeah, I noticed too. He should have put the ring on the other side of those pins and rotate the file clockwise.
But the rest of the video is great.
Your videos are awesome and very helpful thank you for sharing this knowledge
You're doing a great job.
May I ask you if you think that a turbo chared engine or rings would have higher heat under sustained loads like a boat?
New piston rings for the rotary engine! 😏 Just legends are gonna understand !✌🏼 Great video! 💯🔥
What do you do when you can’t get these specs? Like LR/Jaguar 5.0 made by ford. Service manual tells you how to measure everything, but not what the measurements should be.
I am technician I but depth learn very interesting very good presentation thanks
Would adding a higher lift camshaft warrant a ring gap change? Probably a dumb question but I want to know for my rebuild, boring the engine .030" over and porting/polishing the heads as well if that makes any difference for a Ford 4.0 OHV v6 engine
Hello could you have a video about two stroke?If not could you please make it . All I found is a bits of information but still I can't get why they aren't used today
Because they burn oil and can't meet modern emission standards. But they are awesome!
I have situations were the oil spacer on the third ring is too long and buts together before fitting snugly in the groove. This requires cutting 1 or 2 segments off the spacer so that the 2 rails can be correctly fitted
The first 2 minutes sound very familiar in the Subaru EJ257 engine family 👀
vw tfsi engines: pff who needs proper ring clearances anyway.
Compression is overrated
All you need is lots of boost and 8.5:1 compression. 2jz gte style. 👌
😄 🤣 😂
Thank you for sharing your expertise
Question:
Given all the correct engine maintenance is performed like frequent oil changes - and I want to MINIMIZE the oil burning in my engine. What kind of piston rings should I get? Should the piston gaps be minimized to the max that the specs allow it? Always wondered how this works! Thanks 👍🏻
they should be minimized to the min for best performance and emission but the gap is so small that if you're anywhere in the specs then you're good enough and you won't notice slightly different ring gap..
Okay wow this video was very educational thank you
Which way do you turn the handle on the tool? Do you make the disk go upwards or downwards? It makes more sense to me to turn downwards so you're not holding the ring down while the disk is rotating upwards like in the video. Which side of the piston ring faces up while on the tool?
.023 ~ .024 top and bottom on blow through LS setup
inches or mm?
@@shmuck66 inches, call up ring company for your application
I file on both sides seems to keep it 100 percent streight but you have to deber both sides
One many millions of people would have the time ,knowledge and money to do this in their own .
Why does Toyota use 87mm as the point to measure? If on a used engine the gap is wider than specified what would the next step.
Please make a video about pushing rods gap adjsutment 👩🏭
Great information thank you so much
I like to put the old oil scraper rings on my Pistons to make them square in the bore when I set ring Gap
Love the info! Thanks.
lul me who gapped the rings with a cutting wheel on my grinder and chamfered them too on my first home rebuild, engine is running strong tho , wish i had seen this first
Can you make a video on correct port and polish technique?
th-cam.com/video/m0pCJC0B3Hk/w-d-xo.html
Here's an old one: th-cam.com/video/t3RCP14rBxY/w-d-xo.html
Hey man I love your videos a lot, I've been subbed for some time now and because of your videos I've felt confident enough to buy my first motor for a rebuild (b18b). I just got the engine and even though I felt confident before I'm getting cold feet because I don't even really know what to do, my question is what should I do. I know what I want to build (maxpeeding turbo hoping for 250-300hp) but I don't know what I should do to make it happen. I want to build it right but at the same time I don't want to gap rings and tear apart my entire engine because I'm scared I'm not ready for that yet. If anyone out there has any suggestions please I'd love to hear them it's a 300k kms junkyard Honda b18 from a 01 integra and I have very little knowledge about engine rebuilding. Should I leave the head on and just turbo? Should I inspect connecting rods? I don't know and I'm searching for help. Thank you to anyone in advance.
You explain very calm and nicely good mech guy I wish you could help me boost my nissan L28
I love your videos, So I have an Ej251sohc, 180k , Did the head gaskets at 100k. worked great until the car got old and my kids ran the F#@k out of it? Did a bad ass head job on it again? Then the kids tried engine breaking down the mountain with a plugged off pick up tube? My bad, never took the oil pan off. Got a regrind crank, h-beams,oil pump, oil cooler delete, lightened pistons and pins, a scale, file and............
what gap would you do?
This is gona be good.
Hi, I have one question, my piston rings have 0.100 mm, will it cause a problem with compression. Thanks
yes too tight
What is nice and snug? Like if I let it go it sticks in the gap or when it starts touching?
It shouldn't really stay in the gap by itself. You will feel it touching both sides and sliding across them, but you won't need yo to apply force for that.