Adventures in 3D Printing: Elegoo Saturn Desktop Resin Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- @ElegooOfficial @UncleJessy @SlowlysModels
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As you noticed, you need to hollow large volume parts (and add drain holes) or you'll waste a lot of resin and get print failures where the adhesion of the cross-sectional area of your part to the FEP rips the part off of the supports on the build plate. Beginners to 3D resin printers would be wise to start off with a smaller printer. Also, while it's tempting to create parts with the finest .01mm layer height (btw, human hairs range from .04-.12mm in diameter!), the part will take 5 times as long to complete and 5 times the wear & tear on the machine than the usual .05mm layers. You can use the anti-aliasing settings in the slicer to mitigate the tiny visible layer effects if necessary or by angling flat surfaces. It's not rocket science but there is a bit of a learning curve to successfully printing your own resin parts.
Thanks this is really useful Hugh. Only really used FDM but pretty experienced with it and with this video and comment it's really helped. I've found I occasionally need to print some parts at higher detail so considering a resin. Post processing is usually easy on FDM and it's what's put me off resin with all the supports needed and post washing + UV as I generally like to print and play.
My thoughts on build volume is if it's accurate over the entire build plate then bigger is better. Yes your dealing with more resin but IME with FDM having the option to build a bigger single piece if needed can be very useful. Also outside of detail the main thing I can see wrt resin printers is they do an entire layer simultaneously so the bigger the build area the more you can take advantage of this feature?
As for layer height.. use the appropriate layer height for the model your printing.
What's usually stopped me getting a Resin is the generally small build plates which goes against one of the main things they are good at. Even this printer is still pretty small relatively build plate wise IMO.
Overall IME with FDM is people regularly overdo the infill but thinking about how a resin prints Vs FDM then resin probably needs significantly more in some cases?
Any idea what the control board is .. Arduino? if it is presumably can you edit/modify the firmware yourself.
Assume you can print over network or USB direct from PC
I also got a my Saturn, people should be very gentle cleaning the Resin Tank Fep, it just need a small hole to leak resin to your LCD screen. That applies to every resin printer, so be very gentle and careful.
I've seen videos where people will slighly push from the other side of the FEP ( with clean hands of course ) , to release the bonding first, but yeah, sounds scary no matter way
Estupendo video sobre esta impresora de resina de escritorio Elegoo Saturn, mis respetos y saludos desde Venezuela💯👍💯👍🤘🤘🤘💯💯💯💯💯🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Dude so helpful. Thanks
I just got my Saturn yesterday thanks for this video was super helpful man
How? I need help getting one I've been trying since ethe first pre-order June last year
Hmmm great video. :) I have to wonder does the Saturn have a low resin warning alarm?
generally it's recommended to print parts at a slight angle, as it makes the layer lines less visible and also helps somewhat with strength
Was about to comment the same. No broad areas should be parallel or perpendicular to the LCD screen. I usually tilt in 2 axis' to help reduce number of supports and promote a smooth finish.
other thing aside, it really depends on 2 things imo , resolution of the screen and the layer height , if you have a really good XY resolution, but you use a bigger layer thickness, you will see the lines a lot if you don't print in an printing in angle can help here for sure ,
if your limitation is screen resolution though, printing in an angle won't help you , you will just get the print lines somewhere else
for mine ( I haven't started yet but I have done quite a bit of research) , what I will be attempting is to match my XY resolution with layer thickness, that way I should get uniform resolution in all the axis and priting in an angle at that point will be just something to help releive some of the pressure / sucking from the FEP filter
Also the iron man issue is you were using an abs file. You should have taken the model to blender and hollowed it out resin printers don’t need inner supports like that for their prints unless you have a middle part that is connected inside the model.
Muito bom o vídeo 👏
I might eventually get a 3D printer
Wow that's pretty cool what's the cost of a set up like that?
Thanks for the heads up looking forward to seeing the next one.🤗🏁🏁
Depends on where you are located, but i think 500 600 $ range
When you run out of resin are you able to resume printing after refilling the reservoir or do you have to have enough resin in the vat to print the complete model all in one go?
You can add more resin during the print. if you run out and don't add resin. The Print will fail.
Thank you for sharing!
I love your videos...I want a 3d printer so I can make my own stuff for my builds but it looks to complex for me lol.
Nick, start with a regular 3d printer. I have 3 Prusa printer kits I’ve built over the last 5 years. They run daily and have produced excellent prints from day one. Prusa are more expensive, but huge company and community support. There are certainly many options for less expensive machines, with varying compromises.
Resin printers, though very cool, are way more expensive and messy to run, very toxic liquid chemicals, just not beginner friendly😎
@@ruftime ok thank you for the tip
@@ruftime are regular printers easier to work with
What the pistol doing in print menu? XD
5:40
Loved the review
Keep up the good work
This is not a criticism but are you not supposed to hollow the prints and put a drain hole in them then you will not use as much resin on your larger prints 👍
Indeed you should. i tried the ironman shoulder hollowed out. that worked fine. On the astronaut i simply forgot XD
Have you got any other sources of car parts?
Which printer would you recommend for producing your own models of cars/planes?
Elegoo saturn or anycubic photon mono X
Can you add more resin mid print if you're about to run out of resin?
I think you can
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah now I know what the cleaning function is for!!!!!
Aren’t you supposed to zero out home before starting to level the build plate?
You zero the buildplate after leveling it.
So print size is the only real difference? Quality to the MarsPro is similar?
Pretty much. Yes
do you make model car parts with your 3d printer i'm looking for some one to make 4x4 parts in 12/4 scale front end running gear the front diff. leaf spring drive shaft and transfer case can you do that for me thank you wayne from Titusville fl. thank you
If you have the files ready to print. Then yes. If you need me to make files. Then no
Is there a 3d printer available that can "copy" existing parts sprues?
There is not
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Then the next obvious step, is making that happen. I have several un-built vintage kits that are ultra rare, and I would love to share them with you.
@@steveharrigan7811 there is blue stuff to copy parts if you want. You can use resin or epoxy with it. Not sure if you know.
Can you make some AMG style wheel for a mercedes S 500( w 220) 1:18 maisto ? I’m transforming it into an S 65 AMG
i personaly do not have the ability to design those. I can barely design a square box😂
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Try to experiment with Tinkercad its a very enlightening free CAD program that teaches basic CAD skills and understanding of designing your own parts. Thanks for the video.
@@michaelbaykara2322 i am, i mentioned that in the Neptune 2 video. Also printed some parts i made myself.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel ahhh i must have missed that one but i will check it out, thanks.
Send me a message with what you want exactly. I'm the guy that made those Peugeot wheels.
Hopefully they make more of these as they all seem to be sold out on the Mars site as well as on Amazon.
Are you going to learn 3D modeling? That way you can do all kinds of fun things. Do a photogrammetry capture on a model body and then sculpt it, boolean the original out of it. Smooth and fix meshes and you have your bodykit.
I will try my hand at some 3D modeling, but don't expect me to be that good XD
@@TheScalemodelingChannel It sound complicated, it's not. You have the tools. Check out the free Meshroom program. It is photogrammetry software. So it will compose a 3D scan from 2D photographs. Just put the body on the turntable, get your camera and take pictures of it as the body turns. Use 3-4 different angles as it turns and then you have the scan.
Once the scan is done, you send it to a 3D/CAD program and fix faults on the surface. Now you can print it if you want, so you can fairly easily copy parts too, especially big ones.
You can use sculpting or normal modeling to add to the 3D scanned body in the program and then once it looks like what you want you just remove the original body from the result. This leaves you with your work you can print. :)
The first thing to do as soon as the Saturn arrives (I have 2) is PROTECT THE SCREEN. This is because the Saturn has no lcd protection. So should a resin leak from the VAT occur, it would go on the screen above the polarized film.
If the film gets scratched during cleaning, the entire LCD needs to be replaced.
To protect the screen I used an Fep from Elegoo Mars and kapton Tape. I have also seen using Ipad Protector Screen.
I have seen many posts from people, even experts in printing, cry for not having adopted such a simple and inexpensive solution.
Especially because until a few days ago, to replace the screen, you could only rely on Elegoo, because it was still out of the market.
Great tip! I have one on order, not expecting it any time soon but the tips are welcome.
@@djtaylorutube if you write on youtube "Saturn lcd protector", you will see that there are several videos on how to do it and different methods ;)
There are also several FB groups on Saturn holders. Great for information and help
@@marcoc.1646 Thanks, i'm allergic to FB but i'll find the info elsewhere. Appreciate the pointer.
Could I print a model car
Yes you could
@@TheScalemodelingChannel sign me up
Can you make me some AMG Wheels for my Mercedes S class ?
Yeah, that astronaut needed to be hollowed, and given drain holes to reduce the amount of resin you use. Printing things that big as solid is a massive waste of resin and cause of excessive wear on the printer and FEP sheet.
You print with 100% infill??? Thats not good idea, because you use too much resin. Just print hollow prints. You will save a lot of resin ;-)
For smaller parts, yes 100% infill. On bigger parts no. in this case i just forgot to change the settings on the astronaut. :P
A: Never clean your item made from water washable resin in the sink. Resin still messes up the environment. Use a tub and let the resin-water mix cure in the sun and then throw the hardened stuff away.
B: The two items on your shelf are illegal in the Netherlands, you could be fined heavily for them.