About the weak battery! Yes the ECM and other things will drain the battery over time but if it happens sooner than it should because of a weak battery I would just replace the battery because a poor battery can put more strain on the charging system. Some new alternators can cost more than 2 batteries because some of them have special cutout systems etc. So trying to keep that Battery going can cost more in the long run. Also if the vehicle is being parked that long a battery maintainer might be a good idea because every time you run a good battery completely dead you cut the battery life in HALF. Jim
At first.just like the video. my car does the same. and during those time also drain my battery,and now wotn start. i hve a new fuel pump putting january 2020 . please help?
@@ernstboston7640 I wish that In could tell you what to do, but there is not enough information. Check your fuel pressure, or take a fuel line off, and put it into a container, to see if it is pumping fuel, while trying to start. If so, then check for spark to the injectors or plugs.
We just got into the plugs/ @ernst-The Marine SWITCH; is just an additional wire to Battery That I plug a Key( plastic) into Before starting… When Taken OFF… STOPS OTHER THINGS FROM DRAW. ( quite a Few Fuse ( NOT NEEDED) are Also-REMOVED… BUT SHE STILL DOES 6/60 In a Heart beat ! Hard to let that OLD GIRL GO 2003 Jetta wagon! Goes like a shot! 4cyl. ON LESS GAS 👍
Front right tire went out on my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 AWD, I took out the battery and put it back in and that solved the problem this guy is not lying.
For whatever it's worth, this guy is onto something. My daughters 1989 Lincoln Continental has a fuel pump that is intermittently not activating, even when the engine is turning over. Each time I've charged the battery, it activates and the car starts up immediately. If I learn anything more during my repairs I will try to come back and share.
Love the perfect logic in running a dummy line bypassing everything. If I may point out, Check ground to pump, and if rusty, establish a new one. Swap relay then from a/c or a known working one of the same part# and drive it. If it always runs, replace the bad relay.
Thank you for posting. Same symptoms, cranks away without any issue but there's no fuel going to the engine (2001 4.0L). The output side of the fuel pump relay is reading 6 Volts while the input side is reading 12+. It's not the relay because I swapped it out with the 3 others of the same model. I suspect that I may have a grounding issue somewhere that is pulling down my voltage. When I jump-start it the truck fires right up. Next step will be to fuss around with the fuel pump connector and check voltage at the pump itself. I expect to see 6 volts and I'll have to look for a short.
I once heard of a reputable shop that had been working on a Nissan Z 300. It had been sitting for a while and seemed to crank over fine, but would not start. They tried a fuel pump, engine control module (PCM) and a few other things before someone noticed that the cranking voltage was below 9.5 volts. After they changed the battery, everything worked great!
What a shame, and unfortunately a perfect example of how shops take advantage of people and charge all this extra money by throwing parts at it, but in the end it probably did nothing to solve the problem. They clearly did not do the spark, fuel and air test, as if they did that would have saved a lot of time and money!
That doesn't sound like a reputable shop in my opinion. Thousands of dollars spent on a fuel pump, then a PCM, and what else, and it turns out they didn't start with the basics.
Ok went on vacation for 2 weeks came back to this issue. Thought it was a bad fuel pump because I did the banging on the fuel tank and it started. Next day same issue it would crank over but no start. So came across this video and sure enough it worked. Put my jump box on the battery and it started. Thank you for this tip!
Yes a failing fuel pump needs an extra jolt, or more amps to get started. The bad thing is that it will only last a short time before he needs to be replaced.
If you're gonna keep it exciting, at least leave yourself a spare pump, filter, some fuel line flashlight and gloves for the impromptu party on the side of the road.
I see a lot of people saying this is wrong and trying to explain what really happened. As an electrical engineer, handy man and home mechanic, his explanation is sound and can be supported through analysis of all the physics involved. Also, it is supported through empirical evidence. What is the empirical evidence? The number of comments from all the people who tried it and it worked far exceeds the comments from jackals that show their ignorance by trying to explain how he is wrong. Good video.
Hey, thank you very much. It is enlightening to hear from an engineer with common sense, which is really not that common. I also made another video, on why this works, even though it is a temporary fix for a failing motor. Same can be done for a "starter drag".
Absolutely brilliant!!!! I have two old cars 1998 Forester and 1997 Lincoln Continental. I only drive one so I store the other one for a year and then switch every year in May. This September I wanted to replace the garage door opener, I had parked the Lincoln since May using a Tender to keep the battery topped up. I bought a garage door opener and proceeded to take the Lincoln out. It immediately started and then stopped at which time I could not start it again. Talking to mechanics it appeared that I needed a new Gas pump at a significant cost along with the towing charges. I stumbled on your channel and after viewing had a friend bring his new car to give it a boost. Voila the car started immediately. Thank you so much for saving me money, which would have put a big dent on my pension cheque.
I am glad that you found my video, but your fuel pump is most likely going bad. You may find that it will quit working when it gets hot, and it will not start again until it cools off for 30 minutes, (depending on the outside temperature), even with a jump. You may also find that it will start taking a jump to start every time. In case you do need to change your fuel pump in the future, and your car does not have an access door to the fuel pump under the back seat, then you can make your own access door with a hammer and chisel, grinder, nibbler, saws all, etc., but first look at some videos on how to do it safely th-cam.com/video/99FdzeBPnng/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/COOLesyiVNc/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/INn2KCCrVTg/w-d-xo.html Also I have found the cheapest price to be at carparts.com where I got one for a 1998 Ford Taurus for only $16 (list price was listed at $173). Quite a bargain. I always try there first when price checking for anything automotive. With this information, you may be able to do it yourself for around $50 in a short time, instead of $500 or more, paying to drop the fuel tank and the inflated price that they charge for parts.
Also be sure to subscribe, so you will be able to find my next video this week, on how to check your fuel pressure in less than 1 minute with a $1 tool.
My boyfriend has a 1997 caravan. I live on a hill, he back into the drive way. The van started, shut off, would not start.I got in and noticed he had little fuel, I asked where is the pump, in the back or front. He thought WHAT!, I’m sure.I pulled the van close to level ground, and guess what it started. Parked on a hill like that it was sucking air. Thanks for the video.
You still may have a fuel pump that needs to be changed. Watch part 2 for a complete explanation of how it all works th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html If your vehicle does not have an access door above the fuel pump, you still do not need to drop the gas tank, as you can just make a door. There are plenty of videos on youtube, on haw to do this.th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=cut+door+fuel+pump
I think these things are done so you will buy a new one instead of paying for expensive repairs. A fuel pump should never go inside a gas tank, is my opinion.
A few do, (Toyota 4Runner for example) but all should. It all comes down to $ - even 5 dollars per vehicle over a run of cars in the millions is a lot of money. That's their logic anyway with things like this
I will have to add my thumbs up to this video. My 04 Corolla was cranking but not starting. The car has 225K miles and I thought that it could well be the fuel pump. After seeing this video, I went back and checked the battery terminals. The ground had some corrosion. I cleaned the terminal, and put on the charger. After about 15 minutes, the car started right up. And so far, it seems to be working just fine.
Say what you will, but he's right. I was about to have my fuel pump replaced until I seen this video. I went outside hooked up the battery charger and it started right up. I realized that my vehicle ONLY had this problem after it'd been sitting up a day or two.
M Kemmis no, it did not. I ended up having the crank sensor changed and another sensor (can't recall which one at the moment ) and no problem since! Even runs better now. no need to replace fuel pump
In it Not of it- I think thats the problem with my car i got a nissan pulsar put in a new fuel pump an filter a it doesn't prime still i herd other people saying the crank sensor a crank angle sensor was the prob was it expensive to get parts an get a mechanic to install it?
M Kemmis no, not expensive got the parts ordered at auto zone. One sensor was 47.00, the other 87.00 or there abouts. I have a friend whose son does some mechanic work on the side, so he gave me a deal on the labor. No more start problems since 🙏🏻
THANK YOU Mr Didrill ... Following your suggestion, I first found the pump under the back seat of the Ford Laser, sprayed the Pump connector with Contact Cleaner; a test drive revealed NO MORE sluggish acceleratiion from standing start. My Mechanic had quoted $500 for pump and filter replacement, and another $500 for possible MAP sensor replacement... John M... Australia :))
CONGRATS!!!YOU ARE RIGHT!!! Your method worked for me! I just made my "dead" fuel pump run following your way! A few days ago I diagnosed the fuel pump on my zodiac boat (the fuel pump was external, in-line, WALBRO GSL 393 specifically)was not running at all, although there was voltage coming at its connectors. After I disconnected it from the boat I tried to make it work by connecting it to another battery and tapping it at the same time but that didn't help, so I gave up and bought a new one.....However....I continued trying to figure out a way to make the old one work, and after I saw your video I had an idea, I connected the old pump to an a battery charger, instead of a battery. The specific battery charger is adjustable so I could give up to 15V instead of the standard 12V - 13,5V which comes from the battery. When I applied 15V the pump started without tapping or any other trick. The higher voltage was enough to start it. After that I connected hoses to it and made a closed loop including a small bottle full of hydrauluc oil and let it run for 10 minutes without any problem. The idea is that the hydraulic oil is "thin" enough for the pump to handle and at the same time is more lubricative so that any rough surfaces can be smoothed a little by operation and after that can run better than before. I wish I had watched your video earlier and I hadn't bought a new one which cost more than 350 $. But the satisfaction of fixing it is still here. Will keep it as spare! Thank you for your helpfull video!
You would have needed a new one eventually anyway, so you are not out anything. Watch my update on this subject, with details, and it will be more clear. th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
I’m confused I’ve got to c32 AMG Mercedes My fuel pumps bad it works sometimes this car has two of them but anyway how do I get it to work again I don’t understand
this video saved me ALOT of money i have a 07 Toyota corolla and it worked. my car was working just fine and boom i am stick at the doctor office had to wait 1 hour for a tow truck and took the car home because i have to fix it myself don't trust anyone with my car. i was told the gas pump was bad so started watching video after video after video and seen your said what the hell why not and IT WORKED me and my boyfriend were doing the happy dance we didn't have to spend hundreds of dollars we don't have to fix the car THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Keep in mind that this is only a temporary fix, and will need to be changed very soon. if your car does not have an access door to the fuel pump under the back seat, then you can make your own access door with a hammer and chisel, grinder, nibbler, saws all, etc., but first look at some videos on how to do it safely th-cam.com/video/99FdzeBPnng/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/COOLesyiVNc/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/INn2KCCrVTg/w-d-xo.html - -- Also I have found the cheapest price to be at carparts.com where I got one for a 1998 Ford Taurus for only $16 (list price was listed at $173). Quite a bargain. I always try there first when price checking for anything automotive.
On the car in the video, it worked for a few days, but then would not run very long, but would restart when it cooled down for about an hour, and even then I had to get a jump start from another battery to get it to start. (I used a Jump box, but make sure that you carry heavy duty jumper cables in either case). The reason for this is, I think, that the starter's worn out armature is not making contact when it gets warm due to expansion, and when it cools, the gap shrinks back to a more possible connection. If you decide to order the fuel pump, rather that buy one a the auto parts store, it would be a good idea to make sure that you have access, or make access to the fuel pump now, in case you need to change it out in a hurry.
Also you may only be able to make short trips, before it gets to hot to run, and quits on you. You may get a warning of bad performance before it quits, but hopefully it will start again after a cool off period.
thank you and i do understand everything you are telling me. right now i do not have the money to buy a new pump. i am a diy girl but i also need to do some research to make sure i get a good one at a good price and the right one for my car. i was at the doctor when this happen. left the car for about an hour and came back and it would not start. tried jumping the car and it still did not work. but the funny thing is one of the local mechanics look came over and look at the car and the only think he checked was the fuel line to see if any gas leaked and it did not and when he left i forget to take the key out of the car and it started to rain and my windows were open and that is when realized i left the key in the ignition and had just enough power to close the windows and then is when i seen this video. i know it will need to be changed in the near future. after all the car is 10 years old and i cant believe i have had it this long.
Check with carparts.com first. At least by going there you will have a bench mark price to recognize a better deal, if you can find it. Good luck with your car, I hope it that it keeps working for you until you can get the fuel pump changed. There is another way, that one of the other posters used, which was to use a external electrical fuel pump and using a gas can for a gas tank. you could put a "T" connector into the fuel line for this, and safely secure the gas tank somewhere that it does not spill, and cause a fire or fumes in the car.
not, my favorite video, but, a title change could clarify the point to be made to remind people of. (CIP)Had a 2001 dodge van... When the battery died, the whole system quite working, even the charging system! You could not just 'jump' it and then go get your new battery, it required a working battery to run. I suspect some fuel pumps may require a certain amount of voltage/current to run properly, or a safety circuit prevents it from operating. Keep this in mind people. remember to check simple stuff first; battery/battery connections!, fuses, connectors, relays, etc. hook up a code reader and see if it gives any errors; a $20 unit from wally world will do enough to maybe point you in the right direction. lots of valid hints and tips here from many people and the experiences they have had. I respect the simple, clear, honest opinion given. Thanks!
MY truck was in a bad spot tried to start for couple days took a charged battery, jumped it and started on the first try. So I was able to get it out of the woods to my shop so I CAN WORK ON IT. Thank's
Yes always check the battery. The first thing to check is your voltage to the battery to make sure your getting over 12 volts. Usually around 12.9 volts. If the car starts then you can check the output of your alternator by again checking voltage at the battery. You should be getting around 14 volts with car running. You can also disconnect negative battery lead while car is running and if car dies your alternator is bad. Now depending on car you can loosen up the manifold and see if car starts. This will rule out bad oxygen sensors and clogged catalytic converter. If you have a good scan tool you can connect to data port and do an actuation test on all your relays to see if any is bad. A cheaper way to check is to just buy a relay tester. They work really well. Of course use a voltage meter to check all fuses. You will get continuity if good. Lastly you can lift up your air filter and spray a little bit of starting fluid inside. Use very little and do just once so you don’t hurt your motor. Now you can get in car and try to start it. If the car starts up then you know all cylinders are working and your getting spark. You can also take out your fuel relay and use the starting fluid. If the car starts for a few seconds and never did before then you know it’s isolated to the fuel system. Most likely it’s going to be a bad fuel pump but you also want to make sure it’s not the regulator. You can connect a fuel pressure kit and see how much pressure your getting. Check with car manufactures and see what that model calls for. Ive seen some cars call for over 80 lbs of pressure but was only getting 75 lbs of fuel pressure. In short the battery can definitely prevent a car from starting even if the car is cranking.
when it starts with a jump, and your battery is not discharged, then your fuel pump is needing more amps that normal, because it is worn out and needs to be changed. The same thing happens to starters, that is known as a "starter drag". You do not need to drop your fuel tank, if there is no other access. Just cut an opening above it in the floor board. Check on youtube for videos on that subject, as there are several.
@@MrDidrill a lot of cars have an access door under the rear seat. If not ya you can cut one out but on a newer vehicle that wouldn’t have the access door I would definitely drop it. I’ve known some to cut into the bed of their trucks also but dang I paid a lot of money for my truck so I would definitely be dropping the fuel tank. I mean once it’s emptied out it’s not hard and worth it if you don’t want to destroy it. lol.
Absolutely right. Had a problem too with dash light coming on in my diesel van. Took out the fuel pump just to find it was a lose terminal. One of the terminal screws were lose( due to vibrations). I nonetheless tested fuel pump and found it to work fine. Sanded nuts and contact points. Reinstalled item and secured nuts thoroughly. Worked perfectly. No more injector light on dash. Fixed
I think the problem you're having is the old fuel vanishing the insides of the fuel pump. When this happens sometimes you can put more power to it like you did or bang on the tank with something blunt (don't bang to hard and damage your tank) where the pump it but if you don't get the varnish out if it does start working it will just freeze up again so fresh gas and some good fuel system cleaner will be needed. But sometimes none of these things is enough to get the pump to turn and then all you can really do is replace it.
i had suspected this after my car sat for 3 weeks in cold weather. It was cranking OK so I just dismissed the idea. I'm going to check this next. Thanks!
Sorry my friend but even a "dead" (meaning it won't turn over the engine) battery has sufficient voltage to power a fuel pump sufficiently to start the engine. You experienced some other anomaly, perhaps a sticking relay or something.
exactly...if it kicked over that quick.... listen or feel the relay and see if it clicks...id say its some other electrical issue like relay also...good call photon!
This type of fuel pump has an armature that when weak, will need full voltage to complete a circuit. just like a starter that is going bad , that will only start with a jump from another battery in order to get the extra power needed.
Most people know we need to change the pump, I live on limited income and I just can't cough up 500 dollars for a new fuel pump! I'll take any suggestion to get it running, even if it's only for a little while till I can figure out finances. 😀
There is a cheaper and easier way to change a fuel pump, in many cases for under $50. Go to carparts.com. or rockauto.com where I got a fuel pump for $16, that autozone wanted well over $100. You also do not need to drop your gas tank, as simply cutting a hole above the fuel tank is quite easy, using a hammer and chisel, electric wheel cuter, etc. There are many youtube videos, that show how it is done, and I will post some links if you need. If you are not inclined to do this yourself, then there are plenty of handymen that can do it, much cheaper that a mechanic. Don't feel like you are the only one in this situation. Nearly six in 10 Americans don't have enough savings to cover a $500 or $1,000 unplanned expense, according to a new report from Bankrate. Some have a credit card to use, or some can cut spending in other areas, while putting off other things for a while, that do not charge late fees. There are also others that can get help from friends or family, but there are still others that just do not have any other way.
I bought a new fuel pump for my 97 F250. All was good but when I checked the fuel pressure there was no pressure. Truck was cranking with starting fluid tho. So fuel pump was supposed to be bad. I got on TH-cam and searched how to replace fuel pump and found this video. I dont know if it was just luck but I put my battery charger on it at 40 amps, waited 10 mins and truck started. So for me I would say this tip worked.
This is a money/time saving video right here!!!! This was exactly our problem I broke down at the gas station..the van would fire up but it wouldn’t stay on we thought it was the fuel pump.. Of course we’d try to do a couple other things to try like relay switch and a couple other small things first... I went to TH-cam because we just didn’t feel it was the fuel pump!! After watching this video, we charged the battery and Sure enough!!!! Our battery’s charge was low and we needed a NEW BATTERY!!! Thank sooo much!!!!
Glad it helped, but it could also be a sign of a fuel pump going bad. Be sure to watch part 2 for more detailed explanation. th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
Hey man I love it it worked it worked it worked disconnected the battery for 20 seconds put it back on thought her add up thank you enjoy your holiday s
First thing to always do is to check the state of the battery before anything else then the charging system if the battery is charged and passes a load test. The issue is the starter not getting enough juice to meet the required rpms and power to start the engine. The battery was at 50% capacity declining at each crank and dropped down to 8.28V under load.
I was looking thru videos of changing fuel pumps and came across this. So I went out and put a jump box on and it started right up Damn! I spent all day checking things out and was convinced, like you were, that it could only be the fuel pump. Who would have thought. Thanks.
Than means that your pump is worn out and needs to be changed. I would keep the jump box with you to be able to ensure a start up. Depending on how bad it is, it may not continue to run, when it get hot, so keeping your your fuel tank near full will help keep it cooler. You may also need to wait at least a 1/2 hour before it will start again, after it get too hot. To change a pump without dropping the fuel tank, if you do not have an access door, you can make one by searching youtube. There are several videos on how to cut an opening.
Wow.....great video and I would have never thought this to be true. Last week I bought a '96 Explorer from a lady who told me that she sometimes had to get a jumper cable and another car to get her rig to start. Even though it turned over fine, it wouldn't start. I asked her what she did to start it and she said just another car with jumper cables did the trick!!! I said WHAT?? That makes no sense and she said "I know, but it works." So it wouldn't start for me the next morning, and I put a charger on it just to check and see.....sure enough it started right up after charging several hours!!! GO FIGURE!!!
Fuel pump is going bad, and needs more than normal amperage to start working. After that the alternator continues to provide the extra amps, but when it get hot from running, it will stop running and will not start again until it cools down after a 1/2 hour or so. You need to change out this bad fuel pump before it goes out completely.
This exact same thing happened to me a few days ago. I have 2001 Ford Ranger 3.0. The only difference is that that truck is my everyday driver. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that it was the battery. I checked all my receipts and the last time the battery was replaced was on June of 2017 which most batteries life expectancy only last about three years or so. So, I took the battery to Auto Zone and replaced it. It hasn't given me any problems since. Still, I have never heard of this problem.
Looking at the comments a lot of people don't seem to realize how EFI systems work, the fuel pump is primed before cranking so just adding a little more voltage from a charger doesn't fix a faulty fuel pump, admittedly i have seen cars that will crank but not fire due to a dead battery (have just enough capacity left to crank but not enough for everything else), but this is because the voltage falls below the electronic in the ECU threshold not because the pump doesn't have enough voltage... just saying...
A bad fuel pump that will not prime before cranking, or even after cranking, requires more voltage than normal to start working, for several reasons. You need the full picture to understand this, and I explain this all in detail in my newer updated video. th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
I hate to tell you mate, that's just a faulty fuel pump, are you saying next time I get a fuel pump that's not pumping I should just tell my customer to put their battery on a charger and that will sort their problem??? I don't think so, that's a faulty fuel pump through and through, must be replaced....
You obviously did not view part 2 on this, which will explain and answer your question. What would you expect a barber to say, if you ask him if you need a haircut. th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=cFEEvRNyBIk
That sounds like the problem I was having , however the battery was strong enough most of the time but on repeated occasions would leave me cranking but not starting. On such occasions , a jump start from a truck would work but not from a small car. People were helpful and I continue to give back to others when I can. Some helpful people advised that my fuel pump was done and I considered that but it wasnt consistent with my experience. For extended periods of months the caravan would start and run fine, no falter or hiccup. Then suddenly a repeat and at times it was weeks of "will it start without a jump ". When I put the charger on the battery the problem would usually disappear for awhile. Or for so long that we forgot all about it. I nearly replaced the battery, but it worked fine in my other vehicles, so I kept it. That van worked hard for years with all sorts of other parts replaced by me (about $1000 worth) , but never a brand new battery or fuel pump.
This video only works on vehicles that command the fuel pump on during cranking. A lot of older ones will prime the pump when the key turns on, allowing it to run for a few seconds until the alternator kicks in. Checking the cranking voltage is good to do once in a while, eventually the battery will get old enough that there might not be enough voltage left during cranking to fire the ignition coil.
Actually the car in the video does have a fuel pump that primes when the key is first on. The problem is that a worn out one will not turn on with the key, unless there are more amps than normally required.
If you have an in tank fuel pump and you stall, and if you think you are not getting gas to the motor, you can bang on the bottom of the tank with a hammer or a rock and if it is a fuel pump that is going bad, you might get it going again. A fuel pump is an electric motor, and like a power tool, if the brushes go bad, or if there is crud around inside somewhere, a few taps with a hammer can often get it going again. Good to know, in case you are stalled somewhere and need to get back.
Ray Brensike your absolutely right my good friend did this to my Durango and it work now I'm going to try on my van . Thanks for the reminder I forgot about that!!
Take a look at a comment below about making an access door, if your car does not have one. It will save you hours of work, and check out the prices on fuel pumps at carparts.com which I have always been cheaper than others.
Just don't put a dent in the tank. My friend bought a car and it would stop running from time to time. Turned out there was a dent in the bottom of the tank and when the car was 1/4 full or less it would stop pumping fuel. The way the dent was positioned meant there was no fuel directly beneath the pump at a certain level.
A new battery may not be the solution, as your fuel pump will just get worse, and will need more than one battery to start in the future. Watch my updated video on this, and it will explain it in detail at th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
You will probably find that it is a faulty radio or car heater or blower that causes it, take the fuse out of both and see what happens next day, if you can start the car then eliminate the fault by taking either fuse out one night, to see if it starts next day.
We purchased a 2001 Chevy Conversion van. The engine will start sometimes and sometimes we need to spray just a tiny mist of engine starter in to get it to start. We checked and it has a brand new battery. I am fixing to replace the fuel pump, but decided to check to see if it has the correct battery, because These vans need a specific voltage and amperage feeding into it, to start. Low and behold, the battery is a 600 CCA battery and it calls for minimum a 750 CCA battery. After seeing this video, I will go put a 850 CCA battery inside it and do some tests. I suspected this, but this video has convinced me my suspicion may be right. I picked up a fuel pressure test kit and will do that also, but I have a feeling it is that battery. Edit; When I went out to remove the battery, the positive and negative cables can be moved by hand and without hardly any pressure. Who ever put in the new battery, perhaps the previous owner, they seemed to only finger tighten the terminals. Will post back to say what it is.
I do not think that changing the battery will help in your case, unless it is bad. Cleaning and tightening the cables would be an excellent idea. If you want to check if a more powerful battery would help it start, with out purchasing a new battery, simply jump it with another car, or use a charger to give it more cranking amps. Your fuel pump should work with as low as 9 amps, so your fuel pump may be going bad. Another reason is that the fuel line check valve may not be holding pressure, or you have a small leak somewhere, that is bleeding off the fuel pressure.
Also, I had a pickup once that had 2 tanks, and if one tank ran dry of gas, I could not start it with the other tank without using starter fluid. I guess that it would not prime itself again with low engine rotation.
Voltage loss is more critical today the computers need more power that's why it started after charge. In the old days you could remove the positive cable and if the car stayed running alternator was good, this can't be done today because the computers use more than the alternator can put out Hope I explained this enough to understand I am not sure of the exact number of volts that is required at a minimum sat it may be a little different for different years
TheBigCray I am saying when the battery is disconnected the battery is stored power and the alternator is just a supply. Cars are about volts amps and resistance in the circuit. The alternator in a car at most puts out 30 to 100 amps. And no storage. Before all of the draws from computer fuel pumps and the like the draw was not too high fuel pumps were mechanical as were fans many cars today have so many electric draws that the computer turns on that's why you can't do the test. Your car is not powered by the alternator alone without the battery it can't run. It sends power to the battery all the time and charges when things are off . Like your cooling fans lights and such.
If you put a volt meter on the battery when the car is started and running you will get around 14.3 volts. Plenty to run the computer. When you put the A/C, lights,radio,etc on, Voltage will drop for a sec then return to 14 volts. When engine is off battery should be around 12.5 volts, that's plenty to start the engine a get the higher voltage of the alternator to keep everything running.
Joe SC thanks for you comment it's what I was trying to say I kind of got off track. There is huge voltage drop and load on start up that's why older battery can maybe turn car over but has nothing or little to give to the ignition and or fuel system.
Good information, my 02 Silverado 4.3L did this EXACT thing. After not being able to start it for 2 days, I averting towing as it finally started and with some more gasoline was able to drive to the shop!
You can also kick the crap out of the side of the car while yelling at it or even cussing it out. This doesnt fix the fuel pump problem but if your like me it does release pent up agravition and anger and other BS that might be lurking in side. But you might not want to try this at home.😁
This worked for me with help from an 18v tool battery Car(Renault Kangoo 2007 petrol) stuck where it stopped for two days. Eventually worked out it was the fuel pump. I saw this video. Hotwired a generic 18v battery across the main battery. And away it went. Failed again 1 month later and same fix got me on the road WITHOUT a tow truck fee. Thank you!!!! Further research. . DC motors do fail. The brushes break down and sort of weld the brushes to the other motor parts. Commutator? And needs a few extra volts to dislodge. If worried you can always just hotwire the fuel pump and not the whole system. Just need to get the fuel pump motor unstuck. 18-20v is not a criticality high voltage that will cause damage but will be enough probably to get it working. Replacement is inevitable at this point I assume. Unless you are handy at DC motor repair
My 2nd fuel pump has quit working 2 times, first time wacked tank with rubber mallet and it worked , 3 years later quit again, wacked it and did not work, called tow truck got it home, gas tank 1/2 full and very bumpy tow truck ride, so after disconnecting from tow truck I thought I would try one last time and viola it worked. Battery was full charge as it was driven all day off and on when it quit working, so that debunks the battery theory. So what makes it quit working and then works fine for 3 years and then quits working and then after rough tow works again ? Maybe a bad ground, bad connection, I don't know but I will still replace it cause I can't trust it and I will clean all connectors and ground wire. Gas gage quit working 2 months ago so need to replace pump anyway as gage is built into pump.
Yes a bad connection could be your problem, but the video is about how a jump from another battery can get a bad fuel pump working again, and then continue to work with the extra amps from the alternator. A bad fuel pump, or starter, for that matter, will be harder to turn at first when the moving parts are worn. Watch part 2 for a complete explanation of how it all works th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
I had the same problem yesterday, thats why im here. My car is towed back home and I have looked at it. Well for me it was the ECU that was not sending signal to the fuel pump at startup.So for a ECU reboot I disconnected the battery and waited, then hocked it up and when I turned the key I could hear the fuel pump run for about 2 sec and it fired up,. But im still going to replace the pump, it can still be faulty, im also looking to replace the ECU as it has bugged before with other symptoms. The low voltage theory this guy cooks up is not beliveable. If the warning lamp in the dash says low voltage then charge it ofc. The operating power of the pump is within the limit of the "low voltage" warning lamp. And if the starter motor can crank the engine then for sure its not the battery, a starter motor draws 150 Amps per hour, while fuel pumps only draws 5-7 Amps per hour during load.
Thank you..I have not driven this car in a while and I did leave the key on and the batter went dead........so I will check the old battier.....so thank you.......
Even when you jump or put a charger on a dead battery, you usually need to leave it hooked up for at least 5 minutes before trying to start it, so the run down battery will have some power to help start the car. Let us know what you find out.
GENERALLY, the computer needs to see 9-9.5V to run everything. You can spin the engine and as in this video, the cranking voltage was lower than that. Add a charger and bingo, she starts. I have seen it many times after a modern car sets, or when a battery is failing, but is not quite dead yet. Good voltage and good grounds are king. Good video.
This just happened to me two days ago. Had to have it towed in to mechanic. He banged on the gas tank while someone turned on the ignition. After charging the battery. Runs great now but he says it needs new fuel pump.
Your mechanic made a great observation, and your fuel pump is most likely on its last life, and will soon fail. Be sure to watch part 2 for more detailed explanation of what is happening. th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
You had a smaller ground wire lead going to your cars battery that had corroded enough to have weak contact. When you attached your charging cables you disturbed the wire enough to make contact. This smaller lead goes to your cars ECU which sends current to your fuel pump.
You are not even close, but what you are saying is possible. Watch part 2 for a complete explanation of how it all works th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
If there is no garage anywhere near, you can temporarily fix the fuel pump. You need to know the different types of the fuel pump. There are three major types. They include; Mechanical, electronic, and finally direct injection high-pressure pump
Yep I have a suspect feeling this was the case with my MINI Cooper 2011 JCW. Ive had it for 4 weeks now and I use it every 2nd or 3rd day, they dont like to sit! I keep a brand new Ctek trickle charger on it but there was a point where it sat for about 6 months before I came along and bought it 2nd hand. They said the battery was almost dead so Id say it may already be on its way out. I left the trickle charger off for 2 days accidentally and it would turn over and over but would fire. All the relays and fuses were fine and I could hear the fuel pump prime. I again forgot to put the trickle charger on it for the 2nd day. I checked the battery and it said 13.48V sittin still and 11.20V when using it to start. I would have thought that was more than enough but the amount of power cars of today require gives me a headache! I finally put the trickle charger on it, left it for a day and a night.....the next day VROOM VROOM :)
I have a 90 Lumina Euro with a 3.1. I took it to a Shop full of idiots, paid a lot of money bought a lot of parts. It was an old battery so I got soaked. the fuel pump went out 2 years later. I had to put a fuel pump in five times because the AutoZone one kept constantly failing. I bought a book learn how to put it in myself,then went to Napa, got a fuel pump,put it in myself,no problem after that.
.It is hard to find a mechanic that will not just replace parts, instead of finding the cause directly. When you do find a good and reliable mechanic, they are usually so busy that it takes forever to get it fixed. It is always expediently cheaper to just do it yourself.
MrDidrill Another one I learned, my girlfriend at the time had a 90 Plymouth Horizon with a 2.2. It turns out she kept cranking and cranking on it ,the gas washed the oil off the cylinder walls. Therefore it couldn't achieve compression with the Rings to start,that was a new one on me.
This may not be the right forum for my question, but I was wondering if I’ve been ripped off at the dealer? I was charged 1 1/2 hrs labor ($203) to diagnose the cause of my 2013 Mustang’s engine light as being a jet pump that is starting to fail. Beforehand Jiffy Lube had done a scan for free, so I was even able to tell them one of the error codes before they started. Thank you!
It is hard to say why it took them so long, but going to the dealer is the last place that I would personally go, to expect a cheap price. Look at my video on car repair for help on finding a mechanic with good reviews. th-cam.com/video/A95uCs9DK3U/w-d-xo.html
I did not fix the fuel pump, but was able to get it working again by using a fully charged battery. The extra battery power gave the fuel pumps weak armature the power that it needed to complete the circuit. The fuel pump armature will usually not go out all at once, but when it is failing, it needs extra battery power to work. Also it may not work when it is still hot, as the points will separate more, by expansion when hot. A bad starter can also have the same problem, which a jump from another battery is needed to start. This is not a permanent cure, but can help you out for a few days until it can be changed.
I have done everything you have done except for bypass the fuel pump sensor or fuse and use a wire or paperclip 📎! I'm on my way to the 1994 Toyota pickup 5 speed 4 cylinder and I believe I will be able to get it going from YOUR video out of everything on the internet and I can not thank you enough......... Sincerely John Cincinnati Ohio
Just check the fuel return pipe through the following steps.. Car is off. disconnect the pipe. now hold the pipe horizontally if necessary. switch your car on then look if fuel is coming out of the return pipe is not pushed to approx 50cm or over, then your fuel pump is bad and needs to be replaced. This has happened to me before and today too. When you're going to replace it don't forget to replace fuel filter.
Thank u. After towing my truck and the mech telling me it was over 2000 to fix it cause it wouldnt even start and he checked fuel pump and it was bad- i watched this and went down and jumpstarted my truck myself. I cant find a mech who isnt out to screw me over
It is not a permanent fix, but you can change it yourself for just the price of the pump, which is cheap at RockAuto.com, or carparts.com. You can cut a access door, to prevent dropping the tank. There are many video's on youtubr for this.
possibly you may have faulty contacts inside the fuel pump relay, extra voltage maybe an extra boost just to cause an arc internally in these modules to send the minimum current in getting it to function, you may want to test it
interesting theory. well my car is my daily driver, and the car began to stall out and die when driving when I put it in park and turn it on it would start right up. I thought it was the battery, got alternator and started tested all good. they said battery could use a charge. I ordered a high end fuel pump after watching videos, HOWEVER I am now starting to think that possibility of one's battery isn't fully charged, the fuel pump might not be getting enough voltage. I'm gonna give mine a charge..might work.
Most cars electric fuel pump work fine if there is enough charge left in the battery to crank the engine, unless your fuel pump is worn out, then a full battery charge, or a jump start will usually get it going again. If your alternator is working fine, then your fuel pump will get plenty of power when driving, even if your battery is not even in the car. Once a car is started, then the battery is no longer needed, as the alternator takes over. Also if your alternator is working fine, then your battery should not need a charge, unless you have a bad battery, or you have a bad connection from your alternator to the battery, which is usually solved by cleaning the battery posts and clamps.
MrDidrill like I said...my pump is most likely bad because the battery needs to be charged to fully get the pump going. my car needs a new pump in 80 percent sure. otherwise it's the car battery that needs to be fully charged to keep the pump going 100 percent? it turns on drives but then when I slow down or stops it dies.
MrDidrill I tested the battery starter and alternator under a load at the store. they all ran well. my battery could use a charge is all that came up. my check engine code was fuel pump related
You may need a fully charged battery and a jump from another car . I put a new video on, that is an update for this, and should answer all your questions at th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
My 2001 Chevy Astro Van, Blastro, was turning over but would not start a few months ago. I called AAA, and the guy hooked up his jump starter. Blastro still wouldn't start. He removed the jumper cables and then got a mallet out of his truck. He told me to pump on the gas (I found out fuel-injected systems cannot flood) and turn the ignition key while he pounded on the gas tank. Blastro started right up. That is how I know he has a bad fuel pump. I have been carrying a mallet in my van for the past few months, but it is getting harder and harder to get him started, and Blastro is getting tired of me whacking on his *^#s. My friend just ordered a fuel pump for me online from CarParts.com for a total of $51. Yeaaaah. I plan replace it myself and get to his fuel pump by gently sawing through the floor board using the videos on TH-cam. Thank you to everyone that put "how-to" videos online. P.s. Jesus said, "Above all things, love God with all your heart and love each other." God bless everyone!
Thank you Mr. Didrill. I still haven't done the job, but I plan to watch more videos, have a fire extinguisher handy, do a lot of measuring, and pray before sawing. Once I get in there, it seems like cake. Aw, and maybe I should video my work too! If I don't blow up, I can post it on You Tube. Just kidding, I have faith! Shereen
Take your time and don't cut any deeper than the thickness of the floor metal, at least until you find out how much room there is between the cars floor, and the gas tank, and you will be fine. You are doing the right thing, by watching a lot of videos, to enure that you pick the right tools to use that you feel more comfortable with.
if this is the case, you can also if your out somewhere and no access to a jump or charger, release the fuel pressure in the line and then crank it ... sounds dumb but it lets the pump kick off with no pressure against it and it can stay running much easier than start against full pressure.
The point is that you need full battery charge to get a bad fuel pump to work. That does not mean that it will not get worse, and completely fail. This is just for a temporary fix to get you home, or to let you drive for another week or 2 until you can be more prepared to change it out.
GOT A 2003 TAHOE, BOUGHT IT NEW,NEVER GAVE ME PROBLEMS TILL SEPTEMBER 2022 GAVE OUT,WHILE DRIVING MECHANIC ON TH-cam STATED THAT THE (2) AMP GOES BAD,CHANGED IT STARTED RIGHT UP, LIKE NEW. YOUR WELCOME 🙏
I bought a blazer with the same problem. New battery, new alternator. Would only start with jumper cables. This would give the pump 13.5 volts instead of 12, which gave the weak pump just enough pressure to start then the alternator would take over.
Only problem is, that the pump needs to be changed before it completely fails. Easiest way is to cut a access door in the floor board, if there is not already one there.
I think I have an answer to all this confusion and puzzle in the comments discussion. I have had 5 Ford Tauruses over 16 years (multiple at a time) and rebuilt 2 of them from major accidents (with airbags deployed). Somewhere between 90k and 130k (statistically) the fuel pump wears out slowly and starts failing to initialize in particular conditions like for example cold temperature (increased resistance), car stationary for couple of days or lower voltage of battery. I see here how people question battery voltage low that still cranks the engine with starter motor drawing ~150 Amps but affecting fuel pump drawing couple of amps being culprit?! The answer is very simple. It is not about Amps but Voltage! What happens is: you turn ignition key fast from OFF to START and you do not give fuel pump enough time with regular voltage to build pressure in fuel system before you crank the starter motor and voltage drops down to 9Volts like in your video. Proof? I was able to get away without fuel pump replacement for about 3 months by turning Key from OFF to ON waiting for fuel pump initialization sound and then going further to START key position ! You can watch my video with more details how to diagnose, replace & know the difference between variety of fuel pumps and assemblies that are available. I also cut access panel for my fuel pump so I do not have to remove gas tank anymore to work on the fuel pump. I went really into details making 30 min video. th-cam.com/video/DqIU2qTd3KA/w-d-xo.html
Yes a low voltage on a battery can still crank a motor over if voltage is below 9volts won't fire up the start circuits such as fuel pump driver in the ECU
Tf do them have to make everything so complicated Mechanical fuel pumps are what I like 🤣if ya got fuel goin thro the lines ya good if not chance the pump right on the block 💯💯😂
Fuel pump or not? That sounds like the problem I was having , however the battery was strong enough most of the time but on repeated occasions would leave me cranking but not starting. On such occasions , a jump start from a truck would work but not from a small car. People were helpful and I continue to give back to others when I can. Some helpful people advised that my fuel pump was done and I considered that but it wasnt consistent with my experience. For extended periods of months the caravan would start and run fine, no falter or hiccup. Then suddenly a repeat and at times it was weeks of "will it start without a jump ". When I put the charger on the battery the problem would usually disappear for awhile. Or for so long that we forgot all about it. I nearly replaced the battery, but it worked fine in my other vehicles, so I kept it. That van worked hard for years with all sorts of other parts replaced by me (about $1000 worth) , but never a brand new battery or fuel pump.
When a fuel pump or starter goes bad, they need more amps than normal to work.You probably know about "starter drag", and the fuel pump is similar. Once the car is started, the alternator will give it the extra amps needed. There are other reasons that would cause the fuel pump to not work without extra amps, like a bad or corroded connection somewhere.
I can relay to this issue. I own a 1991 Toyota pickup with a V6 and if the battery is not fully charged with 12V that pickup won't start. The pickup will crank but it won't make it pass that point. I'm very familiar with this issue after owning it for 10 years.
Thanks for the comment. That is very interesting, as it is usually caused from a fuel pump going bad. Being the age of the pickup, it could also be a bit of corrosion, or a loose connection somewhere, that needs full amps to complete the contact.
Thanks for sharing great expertise, My nissan micra 2000, 1,4, starts jerking too much and would not take race, I put it in neutral gear for a short time, after a minute or two it takes little race but does not go more than something 20 km/h, when i push accelerator, it starts jerking too much and I get afraid some thing in engines compartment can break, it will not take any race, feels like some thing inside engine is braking very hard, changed fuel filter, but it did not helped, checked electric things seems like all electric is ok. Wonder if it fuel pump problem, if it is then why it starts all the time and goes good at speed under 50km/h. Please advise?
MrDidrill another friend said the same. In fact i foud a thin pipe hanging near the inlet many fold, there was another connecting point. I thougt may be it went off from there so i connected it there but it did not help, pls advise how to look for vaccum leak, which part can be faulty
I would like to say the file filter is more than likely to be cloged and when that happens fule pump over works trying to deliver the correct pressure to open injectors so eventually the pump will over heat and shut down after a while the pump my cool.off and work for a bit but If filter all messed up it will over heat again and eventually lead to a total rule pump failure
fuel pump will gum up or even rust if you dont drive it for months. The amp draw on a fuel pump is about 3A so the charger on the battery would not help out. Just the act of turning the key to run a few times (hear the pump run for about 3 seconds?) usually will free a frozen pump and then the pump itself will clean itself with fresh gas. this happens to boats stored over the winter all the time. They suggest you drain the pump system of fuel before storing for long periods of time.
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MrDidrille
About the weak battery! Yes the ECM and other things will drain the battery over time but if it happens sooner than it should because of a weak battery I would just replace the battery because a poor battery can put more strain on the charging system. Some new alternators can cost more than 2 batteries because some of them have special cutout systems etc. So trying to keep that Battery going can cost more in the long run. Also if the vehicle is being parked that long a battery maintainer might be a good idea because every time you run a good battery completely dead you cut the battery life in HALF. Jim
At first.just like the video. my car does the same. and during those time also drain my battery,and now wotn start. i hve a new fuel pump putting january 2020
. please help?
@@ernstboston7640 I wish that In could tell you what to do, but there is not enough information. Check your fuel pressure, or take a fuel line off, and put it into a container, to see if it is pumping fuel, while trying to start. If so, then check for spark to the injectors or plugs.
We just got into the plugs/ @ernst-The Marine SWITCH; is just an additional wire to Battery That I plug a Key( plastic) into Before starting… When Taken OFF… STOPS OTHER THINGS FROM DRAW. ( quite a Few Fuse ( NOT NEEDED) are Also-REMOVED… BUT SHE STILL DOES 6/60 In a Heart beat !
Hard to let that OLD GIRL GO 2003 Jetta wagon!
Goes like a shot! 4cyl. ON LESS GAS 👍
Front right tire went out on my 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 AWD, I took out the battery and put it back in and that solved the problem this guy is not lying.
Thanks for the reply
😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂 lmao
This guy sounds like Garfield from the 80's Saturday mornings.
Lmfao!!!
That's the 1st thing that came to my mind
Hahahaha I died, that was appreciated 2 years later by me, thanks hahahaha
Omfg
Damn you brought back memories
For whatever it's worth, this guy is onto something. My daughters 1989 Lincoln Continental has a fuel pump that is intermittently not activating, even when the engine is turning over. Each time I've charged the battery, it activates and the car starts up immediately. If I learn anything more during my repairs I will try to come back and share.
Could also be because the computer reboots, after the battery is disconnected for a while.
Love the perfect logic in running a dummy line bypassing everything. If I may point out, Check ground to pump, and if rusty, establish a new one. Swap relay then from a/c or a known working one of the same part# and drive it. If it always runs, replace the bad relay.
Good ideas, thanks.
Thank you for posting. Same symptoms, cranks away without any issue but there's no fuel going to the engine (2001 4.0L). The output side of the fuel pump relay is reading 6 Volts while the input side is reading 12+. It's not the relay because I swapped it out with the 3 others of the same model. I suspect that I may have a grounding issue somewhere that is pulling down my voltage. When I jump-start it the truck fires right up. Next step will be to fuss around with the fuel pump connector and check voltage at the pump itself. I expect to see 6 volts and I'll have to look for a short.
Your fuel pump is worn out, and is causing a voltage drag. The jump, gives it the extra amps it need to get started.
@@MrDidrill Thank you for your reply 👍.
@@buckofranco2298You are so welcome
I once heard of a reputable shop that had been working on a Nissan Z 300. It had been sitting for a while and seemed to crank over fine, but would not start. They tried a fuel pump, engine control module (PCM) and a few other things before someone noticed that the cranking voltage was below 9.5 volts. After they changed the battery, everything worked great!
That is a good story, and about good thinking of the shop. Thanks for sharing.
What a shame, and unfortunately a perfect example of how shops take advantage of people and charge all this extra money by throwing parts at it, but in the end it probably did nothing to solve the problem. They clearly did not do the spark, fuel and air test, as if they did that would have saved a lot of time and money!
That doesn't sound like a reputable shop in my opinion. Thousands of dollars spent on a fuel pump, then a PCM, and what else, and it turns out they didn't start with the basics.
Ok went on vacation for 2 weeks came back to this issue. Thought it was a bad fuel pump because I did the banging on the fuel tank and it started. Next day same issue it would crank over but no start. So came across this video and sure enough it worked. Put my jump box on the battery and it started. Thank you for this tip!
Yes a failing fuel pump needs an extra jolt, or more amps to get started. The bad thing is that it will only last a short time before he needs to be replaced.
So the diagnosis is ...a bad fuel pump. Change it unless you enjoy awkward surprises at the lest opportune moments.
If you're gonna keep it exciting, at least leave yourself a spare pump, filter, some fuel line flashlight and gloves for the impromptu party on the side of the road.
🤣🤣🤣
I see a lot of people saying this is wrong and trying to explain what really happened. As an electrical engineer, handy man and home mechanic, his explanation is sound and can be supported through analysis of all the physics involved. Also, it is supported through empirical evidence. What is the empirical evidence? The number of comments from all the people who tried it and it worked far exceeds the comments from jackals that show their ignorance by trying to explain how he is wrong. Good video.
Hey, thank you very much. It is enlightening to hear from an engineer with common sense, which is really not that common. I also made another video, on why this works, even though it is a temporary fix for a failing motor. Same can be done for a "starter drag".
Absolutely brilliant!!!! I have two old cars 1998 Forester and 1997 Lincoln Continental. I only drive one so I store the other one for a year and then switch every year in May. This September I wanted to replace the garage door opener, I had parked the Lincoln since May using a Tender to keep the battery topped up. I bought a garage door opener and proceeded to take the Lincoln out. It immediately started and then stopped at which time I could not start it again. Talking to mechanics it appeared that I needed a new Gas pump at a significant cost along with the towing charges. I stumbled on your channel and after viewing had a friend bring his new car to give it a boost. Voila the car started immediately. Thank you so much for saving me money, which would have put a big dent on my pension cheque.
I am glad that you found my video, but your fuel pump is most likely going bad. You may find that it will quit working when it gets hot, and it will not start again until it cools off for 30 minutes, (depending on the outside temperature), even with a jump. You may also find that it will start taking a jump to start every time.
In case you do need to change your fuel pump in the future, and your car does not have an access door to the fuel pump under the back seat, then you can make your own access door with a hammer and chisel, grinder, nibbler, saws all, etc., but first look at
some videos on how to do it safely th-cam.com/video/99FdzeBPnng/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/COOLesyiVNc/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/INn2KCCrVTg/w-d-xo.html
Also I have found the cheapest price to be at carparts.com where I got one for a 1998 Ford Taurus for only $16 (list price was listed at $173). Quite a bargain. I always try there first when price checking for anything automotive.
With this information, you may be able to do it yourself for around $50 in a short time, instead of $500 or more, paying to drop the fuel tank and the inflated price that they charge for parts.
Also be sure to subscribe, so you will be able to find my next video this week, on how to check your fuel pressure in less than 1 minute with a $1 tool.
My boyfriend has a 1997 caravan. I live on a hill, he back into the drive way. The van started, shut off, would not start.I got in and noticed he had little fuel, I asked where is the pump, in the back or front. He thought WHAT!, I’m sure.I pulled the van close to level ground, and guess what it started. Parked on a hill like that it was sucking air. Thanks for the video.
kathy mihou .you are amazing
DUDE YOU ARE THE MAN!!!! I TRIED THIS ON THE SAME SYMPTOMS TOTALLY WORED...YOU SAVED ME A TON OF TIME . CHEERS!!!
You still may have a fuel pump that needs to be changed. Watch part 2 for a complete explanation of how it all works th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html If your vehicle does not have an access door above the fuel pump, you still do not need to drop the gas tank, as you can just make a door. There are plenty of videos on youtube, on haw to do this.th-cam.com/users/results?search_query=cut+door+fuel+pump
Salute, it really worked
So why didn't or doesn't the car manufactures make a car with an access door to get at the fuel pump easier ?
$
I think these things are done so you will buy a new one instead of paying for expensive repairs. A fuel pump should never go inside a gas tank, is my opinion.
Ray Brensike I agree one hundred percent.
A few do, (Toyota 4Runner for example) but all should. It
all comes down to $ - even 5 dollars per vehicle over a run of cars in the millions is a lot of money. That's their logic anyway with things like this
chevy has cars with access panel in trunk so you dont have to drop the tank
I will have to add my thumbs up to this video. My 04 Corolla was cranking but not starting. The car has 225K miles and I thought that it could well be the fuel pump. After seeing this video, I went back and checked the battery terminals. The ground had some corrosion. I cleaned the terminal, and put on the charger. After about 15 minutes, the car started right up. And so far, it seems to be working just fine.
old and worn starters on their last leg, need more power, kind of like a starter drag.
Say what you will, but he's right. I was about to have my fuel pump replaced until I seen this video. I went outside hooked up the battery charger and it started right up. I realized that my vehicle ONLY had this problem after it'd been sitting up a day or two.
In it Not of it Does it still start up all right two months later?...
M Kemmis no, it did not. I ended up having the crank sensor changed and another sensor (can't recall which one at the moment ) and no problem since! Even runs better now. no need to replace fuel pump
In it Not of it- I think thats the problem with my car i got a nissan pulsar put in a new fuel pump an filter a it doesn't prime still i herd other people saying the crank sensor a crank angle sensor was the prob was it expensive to get parts an get a mechanic to install it?
M Kemmis no, not expensive got the parts ordered at auto zone. One sensor was 47.00, the other 87.00 or there abouts. I have a friend whose son does some mechanic work on the side, so he gave me a deal on the labor. No more start problems since 🙏🏻
Great that you got going with some great help.
THANK YOU Mr Didrill ... Following your suggestion, I first found the pump under the back seat of the Ford Laser, sprayed the Pump connector with Contact Cleaner; a test drive revealed NO MORE sluggish acceleratiion from standing start. My Mechanic had quoted $500 for pump and filter replacement, and another $500 for possible MAP sensor replacement... John M... Australia :))
CONGRATS!!!YOU ARE RIGHT!!! Your method worked for me! I just made my "dead" fuel pump run following your way!
A few days ago I diagnosed the fuel pump on my zodiac boat (the fuel pump was external, in-line, WALBRO GSL 393 specifically)was not running at all, although there was voltage coming at its connectors. After I disconnected it from the boat I tried to make it work by connecting it to another battery and tapping it at the same time but that didn't help, so I gave up and bought a new one.....However....I continued trying to figure out a way to make the old one work, and after I saw your video I had an idea, I connected the old pump to an a battery charger, instead of a battery. The specific battery charger is adjustable so I could give up to 15V instead of the standard 12V - 13,5V which comes from the battery. When I applied 15V the pump started without tapping or any other trick. The higher voltage was enough to start it. After that I connected hoses to it and made a closed loop including a small bottle full of hydrauluc oil and let it run for 10 minutes without any problem. The idea is that the hydraulic oil is "thin" enough for the pump to handle and at the same time is more lubricative so that any rough surfaces can be smoothed a little by operation and after that can run better than before.
I wish I had watched your video earlier and I hadn't bought a new one which cost more than 350 $. But the satisfaction of fixing it is still here. Will keep it as spare!
Thank you for your helpfull video!
You would have needed a new one eventually anyway, so you are not out anything. Watch my update on this subject, with details, and it will be more clear.
th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
I’m confused I’ve got to c32 AMG Mercedes My fuel pumps bad it works sometimes this car has two of them but anyway how do I get it to work again I don’t understand
Zodiac by Neal Stephenson is a kickass read.
this video saved me ALOT of money i have a 07 Toyota corolla and it worked. my car was working just fine and boom i am stick at the doctor office had to wait 1 hour for a tow truck and took the car home because i have to fix it myself don't trust anyone with my car. i was told the gas pump was bad so started watching video after video after video and seen your said what the hell why not and IT WORKED me and my boyfriend were doing the happy dance we didn't have to spend hundreds of dollars we don't have to fix the car THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Keep in mind that this is only a temporary fix, and will need to be changed very soon. if your car does not have an access door to the fuel pump under the back seat, then you can make your own access door with a hammer and chisel, grinder, nibbler, saws all, etc., but first look at some videos on how to do it
safely th-cam.com/video/99FdzeBPnng/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/COOLesyiVNc/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/INn2KCCrVTg/w-d-xo.html - -- Also I have found the cheapest price to be at carparts.com where I got one for a 1998 Ford Taurus for only $16 (list price was listed at $173). Quite a bargain. I always try there first when price checking for anything automotive.
On the car in the video, it worked for a few days, but then would not run very long, but would restart when it cooled down for about an hour, and even then I had to get a jump start from another battery to get it to start. (I used a Jump box, but make sure that you carry heavy duty jumper cables in either case). The reason for this is, I think, that the starter's worn out armature is not making contact when it gets warm due to expansion, and when it cools, the gap shrinks back to a more possible connection. If you decide to order the fuel pump, rather that buy one a the auto parts store, it would be a good idea to make sure that you have access, or make access to the fuel pump now, in case you need to change it out in a hurry.
Also you may only be able to make short trips, before it gets to hot to run, and quits on you. You may get a warning of bad performance before it quits, but hopefully it will start again after a cool off period.
thank you and i do understand everything you are telling me. right now i do not have the money to buy a new pump. i am a diy girl but i also need to do some research to make sure i get a good one at a good price and the right one for my car. i was at the doctor when this happen. left the car for about an hour and came back and it would not start. tried jumping the car and it still did not work. but the funny thing is one of the local mechanics look came over and look at the car and the only think he checked was the fuel line to see if any gas leaked and it did not and when he left i forget to take the key out of the car and it started to rain and my windows were open and that is when realized i left the key in the ignition and had just enough power to close the windows and then is when i seen this video. i know it will need to be changed in the near future. after all the car is 10 years old and i cant believe i have had it this long.
Check with carparts.com first. At least by going there you will have a bench mark price to recognize a better deal, if you can find it. Good luck with your car, I hope it that it keeps working for you until you can get the fuel pump changed. There is another way, that one of the other posters used, which was to use a external electrical fuel pump and using a gas can for a gas tank. you could put a "T" connector into the fuel line for this, and safely secure the gas tank somewhere that it does not spill, and cause a fire or fumes in the car.
not, my favorite video, but, a title change could clarify the point to be made to remind people of. (CIP)Had a 2001 dodge van... When the battery died, the whole system quite working, even the charging system! You could not just 'jump' it and then go get your new battery, it required a working battery to run. I suspect some fuel pumps may require a certain amount of voltage/current to run properly, or a safety circuit prevents it from operating. Keep this in mind people. remember to check simple stuff first; battery/battery connections!, fuses, connectors, relays, etc. hook up a code reader and see if it gives any errors; a $20 unit from wally world will do enough to maybe point you in the right direction. lots of valid hints and tips here from many people and the experiences they have had. I respect the simple, clear, honest opinion given. Thanks!
MY truck was in a bad spot tried to start for couple days took a charged battery, jumped it and started on the first try. So I was able to get it out of the woods to my shop so I CAN WORK ON IT. Thank's
It is good that you did not need a tow truck, and thanks for sharing your story.
Yes always check the battery. The first thing to check is your voltage to the battery to make sure your getting over 12 volts. Usually around 12.9 volts. If the car starts then you can check the output of your alternator by again checking voltage at the battery. You should be getting around 14 volts with car running. You can also disconnect negative battery lead while car is running and if car dies your alternator is bad. Now depending on car you can loosen up the manifold and see if car starts. This will rule out bad oxygen sensors and clogged catalytic converter. If you have a good scan tool you can connect to data port and do an actuation test on all your relays to see if any is bad. A cheaper way to check is to just buy a relay tester. They work really well. Of course use a voltage meter to check all fuses. You will get continuity if good. Lastly you can lift up your air filter and spray a little bit of starting fluid inside. Use very little and do just once so you don’t hurt your motor. Now you can get in car and try to start it. If the car starts up then you know all cylinders are working and your getting spark. You can also take out your fuel relay and use the starting fluid. If the car starts for a few seconds and never did before then you know it’s isolated to the fuel system. Most likely it’s going to be a bad fuel pump but you also want to make sure it’s not the regulator. You can connect a fuel pressure kit and see how much pressure your getting. Check with car manufactures and see what that model calls for. Ive seen some cars call for over 80 lbs of pressure but was only getting 75 lbs of fuel pressure. In short the battery can definitely prevent a car from starting even if the car is cranking.
when it starts with a jump, and your battery is not discharged, then your fuel pump is needing more amps that normal, because it is worn out and needs to be changed. The same thing happens to starters, that is known as a "starter drag". You do not need to drop your fuel tank, if there is no other access. Just cut an opening above it in the floor board. Check on youtube for videos on that subject, as there are several.
@@MrDidrill a lot of cars have an access door under the rear seat. If not ya you can cut one out but on a newer vehicle that wouldn’t have the access door I would definitely drop it. I’ve known some to cut into the bed of their trucks also but dang I paid a lot of money for my truck so I would definitely be dropping the fuel tank. I mean once it’s emptied out it’s not hard and worth it if you don’t want to destroy it. lol.
Absolutely right. Had a problem too with dash light coming on in my diesel van. Took out the fuel pump just to find it was a lose terminal. One of the terminal screws were lose( due to vibrations). I nonetheless tested fuel pump and found it to work fine. Sanded nuts and contact points. Reinstalled item and secured nuts thoroughly. Worked perfectly. No more injector light on dash. Fixed
At least you didn’t have to pay a mechanic
I think the problem you're having is the old fuel vanishing the insides of the fuel pump. When this happens sometimes you can put more power to it like you did or bang on the tank with something blunt (don't bang to hard and damage your tank) where the pump it but if you don't get the varnish out if it does start working it will just freeze up again so fresh gas and some good fuel system cleaner will be needed. But sometimes none of these things is enough to get the pump to turn and then all you can really do is replace it.
Very well said, thanks
Varnish happens too! Stabil works. I have to listen for the fuel pump buzzy noise.
i had suspected this after my car sat for 3 weeks in cold weather. It was cranking OK so I just dismissed the idea. I'm going to check this next. Thanks!
You can check if you have fuel pressure with a screwdriver.
Watch th-cam.com/video/APIu7QicYgE/w-d-xo.html for how to do this.
Sorry my friend but even a "dead" (meaning it won't turn over the engine) battery has sufficient voltage to power a fuel pump sufficiently to start the engine. You experienced some other anomaly, perhaps a sticking relay or something.
exactly...if it kicked over that quick.... listen or feel the relay and see if it clicks...id say its some other electrical issue like relay also...good call photon!
This type of fuel pump has an armature that when weak, will need full voltage to complete a circuit. just like a starter that is going bad , that will only start with a jump from another battery in order to get the extra power needed.
well...a starter motor that needs to turn a flywheel and pump pistons with lots of torque is much different than a small electric fuel pump
No, sir. 9.5 volts seems to be the cutoff. They taught it in basic Bosch fuel injection school.
Rex Racer - That is nice to know for us untrained back yard shade tree mechanics. Thanks for sharing.
Dude, you just confirmed my issue. Thanx. Battery isnt strong enough to work fuel pump
Extra amps needed to start fuel pump, because it is wearing out, and soon will need to be replaced.
Most people know we need to change the pump, I live on limited income and I just can't cough up 500 dollars for a new fuel pump! I'll take any suggestion to get it running, even if it's only for a little while till I can figure out finances. 😀
There is a cheaper and easier way to change a fuel pump, in many cases for under $50. Go to carparts.com. or rockauto.com where I got a fuel pump for $16, that autozone wanted well over $100.
You also do not need to drop your gas tank, as simply cutting a hole above the fuel tank is quite easy, using a hammer and chisel, electric wheel cuter, etc. There are many youtube videos, that show how it is done, and I will post some links if you need.
If you are not inclined to do this yourself, then there are plenty of handymen that can do it, much cheaper that a mechanic.
Don't feel like you are the only one in this situation. Nearly six in 10 Americans don't have enough savings to cover a $500 or $1,000 unplanned expense, according to a new report from Bankrate. Some have a credit card to use, or some can cut spending in other areas, while putting off other things for a while, that do not charge late fees. There are also others that can get help from friends or family, but there are still others that just do not have any other way.
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I bought a new fuel pump for my 97 F250. All was good but when I checked the fuel pressure there was no pressure. Truck was cranking with starting fluid tho. So fuel pump was supposed to be bad. I got on TH-cam and searched how to replace fuel pump and found this video. I dont know if it was just luck but I put my battery charger on it at 40 amps, waited 10 mins and truck started. So for me I would say this tip worked.
Put in the new one soon, as the old one is worn out, and may not work much longer. I would rather cut a hole in the bed, rather than drop the tank.
This is a money/time saving video right here!!!! This was exactly our problem I broke down at the gas station..the van would fire up but it wouldn’t stay on we thought it was the fuel pump.. Of course we’d try to do a couple other things to try like relay switch and a couple other small things first... I went to TH-cam because we just didn’t feel it was the fuel pump!! After watching this video, we charged the battery and Sure enough!!!! Our battery’s charge was low and we needed a NEW BATTERY!!! Thank sooo much!!!!
Glad it helped, but it could also be a sign of a fuel pump going bad. Be sure to watch part 2 for more detailed explanation. th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
Hey man I love it it worked it worked it worked disconnected the battery for 20 seconds put it back on thought her add up thank you enjoy your holiday s
Great to hear!
First thing to always do is to check the state of the battery before anything else then the charging system if the battery is charged and passes a load test. The issue is the starter not getting enough juice to meet the required rpms and power to start the engine. The battery was at 50% capacity declining at each crank and dropped down to 8.28V under load.
A bad battery was not the problem, it was a failing fuel pump, as explained in my updated video.
th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
I was looking thru videos of changing fuel pumps and came across this. So I went out and put a jump box on and it started right up Damn! I spent all day checking things out and was convinced, like you were, that it could only be the fuel pump. Who would have thought. Thanks.
Than means that your pump is worn out and needs to be changed. I would keep the jump box with you to be able to ensure a start up. Depending on how bad it is, it may not continue to run, when it get hot, so keeping your your fuel tank near full will help keep it cooler. You may also need to wait at least a 1/2 hour before it will start again, after it get too hot. To change a pump without dropping the fuel tank, if you do not have an access door, you can make one by searching youtube. There are several videos on how to cut an opening.
Wow.....great video and I would have never thought this to be true. Last week I bought a '96 Explorer from a lady who told me that she sometimes had to get a jumper cable and another car to get her rig to start. Even though it turned over fine, it wouldn't start. I asked her what she did to start it and she said just another car with jumper cables did the trick!!! I said WHAT?? That makes no sense and she said "I know, but it works." So it wouldn't start for me the next morning, and I put a charger on it just to check and see.....sure enough it started right up after charging several hours!!! GO FIGURE!!!
Fuel pump is going bad, and needs more than normal amperage to start working. After that the alternator continues to provide the extra amps, but when it get hot from running, it will stop running and will not start again until it cools down after a 1/2 hour or so. You need to change out this bad fuel pump before it goes out completely.
Thanks......we just changed it out and the rig starts right up. Thanks for all the info....
I think it was the cars personality, it was having one of those days.
I'm so grateful for this video , it's helped me get my car out of a black hole and going again .fantastic help ,thank you so much
Most likely is only a temporary solution, and will need to be changed soon.
This exact same thing happened to me a few days ago. I have 2001 Ford Ranger 3.0. The only difference is that that truck is my everyday driver. I took it to my mechanic and he told me that it was the battery. I checked all my receipts and the last time the battery was replaced was on June of 2017 which most batteries life expectancy only last about three years or so. So, I took the battery to Auto Zone and replaced it. It hasn't given me any problems since. Still, I have never heard of this problem.
Quite common, when they wear out.
Looking at the comments a lot of people don't seem to realize how EFI systems work, the fuel pump is primed before cranking so just adding a little more voltage from a charger doesn't fix a faulty fuel pump, admittedly i have seen cars that will crank but not fire due to a dead battery (have just enough capacity left to crank but not enough for everything else), but this is because the voltage falls below the electronic in the ECU threshold not because the pump doesn't have enough voltage... just saying...
A bad fuel pump that will not prime before cranking, or even after cranking, requires more voltage than normal to start working, for several reasons. You need the full picture to understand this, and I explain this all in detail in my newer updated video. th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
I hate to tell you mate, that's just a faulty fuel pump, are you saying next time I get a fuel pump that's not pumping I should just tell my customer to put their battery on a charger and that will sort their problem??? I don't think so, that's a faulty fuel pump through and through, must be replaced....
You obviously did not view part 2 on this, which will explain and answer your question. What would you expect a barber to say, if you ask him if you need a haircut.
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=cFEEvRNyBIk
@@MrDidrill Barber: "Have a seat friend"!
That sounds like the problem I was having , however the battery was strong enough most of the time but on repeated occasions would leave me cranking but not starting. On such occasions , a jump start from a truck would work but not from a small car. People were helpful and I continue to give back to others when I can. Some helpful people advised that my fuel pump was done and I considered that but it wasnt consistent with my experience. For extended periods of months the caravan would start and run fine, no falter or hiccup. Then suddenly a repeat and at times it was weeks of "will it start without a jump ". When I put the charger on the battery the problem would usually disappear for awhile. Or for so long that we forgot all about it. I nearly replaced the battery, but it worked fine in my other vehicles, so I kept it. That van worked hard for years with all sorts of other parts replaced by me (about $1000 worth) , but never a brand new battery or fuel pump.
This video only works on vehicles that command the fuel pump on during cranking. A lot of older ones will prime the pump when the key turns on, allowing it to run for a few seconds until the alternator kicks in. Checking the cranking voltage is good to do once in a while, eventually the battery will get old enough that there might not be enough voltage left during cranking to fire the ignition coil.
Actually the car in the video does have a fuel pump that primes when the key is first on. The problem is that a worn out one will not turn on with the key, unless there are more amps than normally required.
If you have an in tank fuel pump and you stall, and if you think you are not getting gas to the motor, you can bang on the bottom of the tank with a hammer or a rock and if it is a fuel pump that is going bad, you might get it going again. A fuel pump is an electric motor, and like a power tool, if the brushes go bad, or if there is crud around inside somewhere, a few taps with a hammer can often get it going again. Good to know, in case you are stalled somewhere and need to get back.
Ray Brensike your absolutely right my good friend did this to my Durango and it work now I'm going to try on my van . Thanks for the reminder I forgot about that!!
Always good to know everything you can try, to get you going again.
MrDidrill yes again had to do it today and it worked!! Now I have a safe place to replace the pump.
Take a look at a comment below about making an access door, if your car does not have one. It will save you hours of work, and check out the prices on fuel pumps at carparts.com which I have always been cheaper than others.
Just don't put a dent in the tank. My friend bought a car and it would stop running from time to time. Turned out there was a dent in the bottom of the tank and when the car was 1/4 full or less it would stop pumping fuel. The way the dent was positioned meant there was no fuel directly beneath the pump at a certain level.
Your video saved me from changing my fuel pump, just need a fresh battery
A new battery may not be the solution, as your fuel pump will just get worse, and will need more than one battery to start in the future. Watch my updated video on this, and it will explain it in detail at th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
You will probably find that it is a faulty radio or car heater or blower that causes it, take the fuse out of both and see what happens next day, if you can start the car then eliminate the fault by taking either fuse out one night, to see if it starts next day.
Sorry to reply on an old comment. but I think my problem is something along these lines. Are you saying the fuses are bad? or a bad blower? or ??
We purchased a 2001 Chevy Conversion van. The engine will start sometimes and sometimes we need to spray just a tiny mist of engine starter in to get it to start. We checked and it has a brand new battery. I am fixing to replace the fuel pump, but decided to check to see if it has the correct battery, because These vans need a specific voltage and amperage feeding into it, to start. Low and behold, the battery is a 600 CCA battery and it calls for minimum a 750 CCA battery. After seeing this video, I will go put a 850 CCA battery inside it and do some tests.
I suspected this, but this video has convinced me my suspicion may be right. I picked up a fuel pressure test kit and will do that also, but I have a feeling it is that battery.
Edit; When I went out to remove the battery, the positive and negative cables can be moved by hand and without hardly any pressure. Who ever put in the new battery, perhaps the previous owner, they seemed to only finger tighten the terminals. Will post back to say what it is.
I do not think that changing the battery will help in your case, unless it is bad. Cleaning and tightening the cables would be an excellent idea. If you want to check if a more powerful battery would help it start, with out purchasing a new battery, simply jump it with another car, or use a charger to give it more cranking amps. Your fuel pump should work with as low as 9 amps, so your fuel pump may be going bad.
Another reason is that the fuel line check valve may not be holding pressure, or you have a small leak somewhere, that is bleeding off the fuel pressure.
Also, I had a pickup once that had 2 tanks, and if one tank ran dry of gas, I could not start it with the other tank without using starter fluid. I guess that it would not prime itself again with low engine rotation.
Voltage loss is more critical today the computers need more power that's why it started after charge. In the old days you could remove the positive cable and if the car stayed running alternator was good, this can't be done today because the computers use more than the alternator can put out
Hope I explained this enough to understand I am not sure of the exact number of volts that is required at a minimum sat it may be a little different for different years
If the computer uses more power than the alternator puts out, how does the alternator charge the battery?
TheBigCray I am saying when the battery is disconnected the battery is stored power and the alternator is just a supply. Cars are about volts amps and resistance in the circuit. The alternator in a car at most puts out 30 to 100 amps. And no storage. Before all of the draws from computer fuel pumps and the like the draw was not too high fuel pumps were mechanical as were fans many cars today have so many electric draws that the computer turns on that's why you can't do the test. Your car is not powered by the alternator alone without the battery it can't run. It sends power to the battery all the time and charges when things are off . Like your cooling fans lights and such.
If you put a volt meter on the battery when the car is started and running you will get around 14.3 volts. Plenty to run the computer. When you put the A/C, lights,radio,etc on, Voltage will drop for a sec then return to 14 volts. When engine is off battery should be around 12.5 volts, that's plenty to start the engine a get the higher voltage of the alternator to keep everything running.
Joe SC thanks for you comment it's what I was trying to say I kind of got off track. There is huge voltage drop and load on start up that's why older battery can maybe turn car over but has nothing or little to give to the ignition and or fuel system.
You all have some good ideas.
Good information, my 02 Silverado 4.3L did this EXACT thing. After not being able to start it for 2 days, I averting towing as it finally started and with some more gasoline was able to drive to the shop!
great to hear that it helped
If you take a hammer & give the tank a few wacks under the location of the fuel pump, this works also.
You can also kick the crap out of the side of the car while yelling at it or even cussing it out. This doesnt fix the fuel pump problem but if your like me it does release pent up agravition and anger and other BS that might be lurking in side. But you might not want to try this at home.😁
😂😂😂
This worked for me with help from an 18v tool battery Car(Renault Kangoo 2007 petrol) stuck where it stopped for two days. Eventually worked out it was the fuel pump. I saw this video. Hotwired a generic 18v battery across the main battery. And away it went. Failed again 1 month later and same fix got me on the road WITHOUT a tow truck fee. Thank you!!!!
Further research. . DC motors do fail. The brushes break down and sort of weld the brushes to the other motor parts. Commutator? And needs a few extra volts to dislodge.
If worried you can always just hotwire the fuel pump and not the whole system. Just need to get the fuel pump motor unstuck. 18-20v is not a criticality high voltage that will cause damage but will be enough probably to get it working. Replacement is inevitable at this point I assume. Unless you are handy at DC motor repair
My 2nd fuel pump has quit working 2 times, first time wacked tank with rubber mallet and it worked , 3 years later quit again, wacked it and did not work, called tow truck got it home, gas tank 1/2 full and very bumpy tow truck ride, so after disconnecting from tow truck I thought I would try one last time and viola it worked.
Battery was full charge as it was driven all day off and on when it quit working, so that debunks the battery theory.
So what makes it quit working and then works fine for 3 years and then quits working and then after rough tow works again ?
Maybe a bad ground, bad connection, I don't know but I will still replace it cause I can't trust it and I will clean all connectors and ground wire.
Gas gage quit working 2 months ago so need to replace pump anyway as gage is built into pump.
Yes a bad connection could be your problem, but the video is about how a jump from another battery can get a bad fuel pump working again, and then continue to work with the extra amps from the alternator. A bad fuel pump, or starter, for that matter, will be harder to turn at first when the moving parts are worn. Watch part 2 for a complete explanation of how it all works th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
Also, fuel pumps for some cars are very cheap at carparts.com where I got mine at for $16. Elsewhere it was much much more.
Hand the same problem with an ATV, brand new plugs really got it running like new. No problems so far. (Fingers crossed)
I had the same problem yesterday, thats why im here. My car is towed back home and I have looked at it. Well for me it was the ECU that was not sending signal to the fuel pump at startup.So for a ECU reboot I disconnected the battery and waited, then hocked it up and when I turned the key I could hear the fuel pump run for about 2 sec and it fired up,. But im still going to replace the pump, it can still be faulty, im also looking to replace the ECU as it has bugged before with other symptoms.
The low voltage theory this guy cooks up is not beliveable. If the warning lamp in the dash says low voltage then charge it ofc. The operating power of the pump is within the limit of the "low voltage" warning lamp. And if the starter motor can crank the engine then for sure its not the battery, a starter motor draws 150 Amps per hour, while fuel pumps only draws 5-7 Amps per hour during load.
If your car does not have an access door, you can make one, which is shown on some youtube videos.
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Thank you..I have not driven this car in a while and I did leave the key on and the batter went dead........so I will check the old battier.....so thank you.......
Even when you jump or put a charger on a dead battery, you usually need to leave it hooked up for at least 5 minutes before trying to start it, so the run down battery will have some power to help start the car. Let us know what you find out.
I think you just got lucky
it continued to work for a while, but I eventually had to change it for a new pump.
GENERALLY, the computer needs to see 9-9.5V to run everything. You can spin the engine and as in this video, the cranking voltage was lower than that. Add a charger and bingo, she starts. I have seen it many times after a modern car sets, or when a battery is failing, but is not quite dead yet. Good voltage and good grounds are king. Good video.
This just happened to me two days ago. Had to have it towed in to mechanic. He banged on the gas tank while someone turned on the ignition. After charging the battery. Runs great now but he says it needs new fuel pump.
Your mechanic made a great observation, and your fuel pump is most likely on its last life, and will soon fail.
Be sure to watch part 2 for more detailed explanation of what is happening. th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
You had a smaller ground wire lead going to your cars battery that had corroded enough to have weak contact. When you attached your charging cables you disturbed the wire enough to make contact. This smaller lead goes to your cars ECU which sends current to your fuel pump.
You are not even close, but what you are saying is possible. Watch part 2 for a complete explanation of how it all works th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
If there is no garage anywhere near, you can temporarily fix the fuel pump. You need to know the different types of the fuel pump. There are three major types. They include; Mechanical, electronic, and finally direct injection high-pressure pump
Yep I have a suspect feeling this was the case with my MINI Cooper 2011 JCW. Ive had it for 4 weeks now and I use it every 2nd or 3rd day, they dont like to sit! I keep a brand new Ctek trickle charger on it but there was a point where it sat for about 6 months before I came along and bought it 2nd hand. They said the battery was almost dead so Id say it may already be on its way out. I left the trickle charger off for 2 days accidentally and it would turn over and over but would fire. All the relays and fuses were fine and I could hear the fuel pump prime. I again forgot to put the trickle charger on it for the 2nd day. I checked the battery and it said 13.48V sittin still and 11.20V when using it to start. I would have thought that was more than enough but the amount of power cars of today require gives me a headache! I finally put the trickle charger on it, left it for a day and a night.....the next day VROOM VROOM :)
Thanks for the comment.
I have a 90 Lumina Euro with a 3.1.
I took it to a Shop full of idiots, paid a lot of money bought a lot of parts. It was an old battery so I got soaked. the fuel pump went out 2 years later. I had to put a fuel pump in five times because the AutoZone one kept constantly failing. I bought a book learn how to put it in myself,then went to Napa, got a fuel pump,put it in myself,no problem after that.
.It is hard to find a mechanic that will not just replace parts, instead of finding the cause directly. When you do find a good and reliable mechanic, they are usually so busy that it takes forever to get it fixed. It is always expediently cheaper to just do it yourself.
MrDidrill Another one I learned, my girlfriend at the time had a 90 Plymouth Horizon with a 2.2.
It turns out she kept cranking and cranking on it ,the gas washed the oil off the cylinder walls. Therefore it couldn't achieve compression with the Rings to start,that was a new one on me.
I never thought that to be a cause, as I would just think that is was flooded, and wait for it to dissipate.
This may not be the right forum for my question, but I was wondering if I’ve been ripped off at the dealer? I was charged 1 1/2 hrs labor ($203) to diagnose the cause of my 2013 Mustang’s engine light as being a jet pump that is starting to fail. Beforehand Jiffy Lube had done a scan for free, so I was even able to tell them one of the error codes before they started. Thank you!
It is hard to say why it took them so long, but going to the dealer is the last place that I would personally go, to expect a cheap price. Look at my video on car repair for help on finding a mechanic with good reviews.
th-cam.com/video/A95uCs9DK3U/w-d-xo.html
the narration makes no sense. you did what exactly to fix the fuel pump wout replacing??? why would new battery fix the fuel pumpm
you said it for me lolol
it always have to be even more dumbass to try justify this fuckery..lolol
Dan Holt mm
I did not fix the fuel pump, but was able to get it working again by using a fully charged battery. The extra battery power gave the fuel pumps weak armature the power that it needed to complete the circuit. The fuel pump armature will usually not go out all at once, but when it is failing, it needs extra battery power to work. Also it may not work when it is still hot, as the points will separate more, by expansion when hot. A bad starter can also have the same problem, which a jump from another battery is needed to start. This is not a permanent cure, but can help you out for a few days until it can be changed.
Just be sure it's not a relay going bad, which can have the same symptoms but is FAR easier and cheaper to replace... ; O )
I have done everything you have done except for bypass the fuel pump sensor or fuse and use a wire or paperclip 📎! I'm on my way to the 1994 Toyota pickup 5 speed 4 cylinder and I believe I will be able to get it going from YOUR video out of everything on the internet and I can not thank you enough......... Sincerely John Cincinnati Ohio
good luck, but remember, that the pump may be worn, and may not last much longer
Nothing a plate of lasagna cant fix.
My brain went into limp mode so I changed the battery on my truck and now my brain is super sharp again.... thanks for the tip
😀
Great
this was quite ingenious of you.
hello
Lavica Wiggins ford f151 4*4 2011 no ay gasolina
Is there a question there?
V Wiggins this is Fred how are you give me a call my number is 562 418 9461 call me waiting for your call
Just check the fuel return pipe through the following steps..
Car is off.
disconnect the pipe.
now hold the pipe horizontally if necessary.
switch your car on then look if fuel is coming out of the return pipe is not pushed to approx 50cm or over, then your fuel pump is bad and needs to be replaced.
This has happened to me before and today too.
When you're going to replace it don't forget to replace fuel filter.
That is a good way to see if your car is getting fuel, but does help getting a bad pump to start working again.
Thank you.
After 2 fifths of Jack, I was finally able to keep up with him!
After 2 fifths, at least you were having a good time.
Thank u. After towing my truck and the mech telling me it was over 2000 to fix it cause it wouldnt even start and he checked fuel pump and it was bad- i watched this and went down and jumpstarted my truck myself. I cant find a mech who isnt out to screw me over
It is not a permanent fix, but you can change it yourself for just the price of the pump, which is cheap at RockAuto.com, or carparts.com. You can cut a access door, to prevent dropping the tank. There are many video's on youtubr for this.
Great video....congratulations !
Thanks for the comment - it is very much appreciated.
possibly you may have faulty contacts inside the fuel pump relay, extra voltage maybe an extra boost just to cause an arc internally in these modules to send the minimum current in getting it to function, you may want to test it
interesting theory. well my car is my daily driver, and the car began to stall out and die when driving when I put it in park and turn it on it would start right up. I thought it was the battery, got alternator and started tested all good. they said battery could use a charge. I ordered a high end fuel pump after watching videos, HOWEVER I am now starting to think that possibility of one's battery isn't fully charged, the fuel pump might not be getting enough voltage. I'm gonna give mine a charge..might work.
Most cars electric fuel pump work fine if there is enough charge left in the battery to crank the engine, unless your fuel pump is worn out, then a full battery charge, or a jump start will usually get it going again.
If your alternator is working fine, then your fuel pump will get plenty of power when driving, even if your battery is not even in the car. Once a car is started, then the battery is no longer needed, as the alternator takes over.
Also if your alternator is working fine, then your battery should not need a charge, unless you have a bad battery, or you have a bad connection from your alternator to the battery, which is usually solved by cleaning the battery posts and clamps.
MrDidrill like I said...my pump is most likely bad because the battery needs to be charged to fully get the pump going. my car needs a new pump in 80 percent sure. otherwise it's the car battery that needs to be fully charged to keep the pump going 100 percent? it turns on drives but then when I slow down or stops it dies.
When you slow down, or idle, the RPM of the alternator will usually decrease the output, so that makes since.
MrDidrill I tested the battery starter and alternator under a load at the store. they all ran well. my battery could use a charge is all that came up. my check engine code was fuel pump related
Then you have the situation in hand - good luck.
Good advice...I would never going to buy a fuel pump from now on.....I'm sorry I forgot, what kind of test do I need to do?
This only works for a little while, and soon, you will need to change the bad pump, as it will continue to get worse and quit working for good.
Yes, that sometimes works also to jar a connection, or free stuck bearings.
replace fuel pump in 2006f150
Or also tap the gas alot for it to start up
@@goodafternoonworld4456 Whatever works.
I have a 91 Camaro with a dead fuel pump after sitting a week...... I'm for sure going to try this!
You may need a fully charged battery and a jump from another car . I put a new video on, that is an update for this, and should answer all your questions at th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
My 2001 Chevy Astro Van, Blastro, was turning over but would not start a few months ago. I called AAA, and the guy hooked up his jump starter. Blastro still wouldn't start. He removed the jumper cables and then got a mallet out of his truck. He told me to pump on the gas (I found out fuel-injected systems cannot flood) and turn the ignition key while he pounded on the gas tank. Blastro started right up. That is how I know he has a bad fuel pump. I have been carrying a mallet in my van for the past few months, but it is getting harder and harder to get him started, and Blastro is getting tired of me whacking on his *^#s.
My friend just ordered a fuel pump for me online from CarParts.com for a total of $51. Yeaaaah. I plan replace it myself and get to his fuel pump by gently sawing through the floor board using the videos on TH-cam.
Thank you to everyone that put "how-to" videos online.
P.s. Jesus said, "Above all things, love God with all your heart and love each other."
God bless everyone!
You are doing it the cheapest, cleanest and the fastest way. Your research has paid off.
Thank you Mr. Didrill. I still haven't done the job, but I plan to watch more videos, have a fire extinguisher handy, do a lot of measuring, and pray before sawing. Once I get in there, it seems like cake.
Aw, and maybe I should video my work too! If I don't blow up, I can post it on You Tube. Just kidding, I have faith! Shereen
Take your time and don't cut any deeper than the thickness of the floor metal, at least until you find out how much room there is between the cars floor, and the gas tank, and you will be fine. You are doing the right thing, by watching a lot of videos, to enure that you pick the right tools to use that you feel more comfortable with.
All you had to do was drop the tank you didn't have to cut a hole in the floorboard
good video it makes sense weaker pump takes more energy
Thanks for the comment.
if this is the case, you can also if your out somewhere and no access to a jump or charger, release the fuel pressure in the line and then crank it ... sounds dumb but it lets the pump kick off with no pressure against it and it can stay running much easier than start against full pressure.
That is an excellent idea. I would have never thought of it, and it is good to know, thanks.
How do you release the fuel pressure. I have a '96 Chev pickup, the tank has to be dropped.
If you have fuel pressure, then your car should start, and the pump must be working. If your pump is not working, then there would be no pressure.
Full of crap.That fuel pump will go bad again even when the battery is good
The point is that you need full battery charge to get a bad fuel pump to work. That does not mean that it will not get worse, and completely fail. This is just for a temporary fix to get you home, or to let you drive for another week or 2 until you can be more prepared to change it out.
Most of the fuel pump failures are from badly plugged up fuel filters.Includes people running them until they are empty burning the fuel pump up
GOT A 2003 TAHOE,
BOUGHT IT NEW,NEVER
GAVE ME PROBLEMS
TILL SEPTEMBER 2022
GAVE OUT,WHILE DRIVING
MECHANIC ON TH-cam
STATED THAT THE (2) AMP
GOES BAD,CHANGED IT
STARTED RIGHT UP,
LIKE NEW.
YOUR WELCOME 🙏
Old starters need more amps
I bought a blazer with the same problem. New battery, new alternator. Would only start with jumper cables. This would give the pump 13.5 volts instead of 12, which gave the weak pump just enough pressure to start then the alternator would take over.
Only problem is, that the pump needs to be changed before it completely fails. Easiest way is to cut a access door in the floor board, if there is not already one there.
Thanks for info, was just researching for new fuel pump.
I think I have an answer to all this confusion and puzzle in the comments discussion.
I have had 5 Ford Tauruses over 16 years (multiple at a time) and rebuilt 2 of them from major accidents (with airbags deployed).
Somewhere between 90k and 130k (statistically) the fuel pump wears out slowly and starts failing to initialize in particular conditions like for example cold temperature (increased resistance), car stationary for couple of days or lower voltage of battery.
I see here how people question battery voltage low that still cranks the engine with starter motor drawing ~150 Amps but affecting fuel pump drawing couple of amps being culprit?!
The answer is very simple. It is not about Amps but Voltage!
What happens is: you turn ignition key fast from OFF to START and you do not give fuel pump enough time with regular voltage to build pressure in fuel system before you crank the starter motor and voltage drops down to 9Volts like in your video.
Proof? I was able to get away without fuel pump replacement for about 3 months by turning Key from OFF to ON waiting for fuel pump initialization sound and then going further to START key position !
You can watch my video with more details how to diagnose, replace & know the difference between variety of fuel pumps and assemblies that are available.
I also cut access panel for my fuel pump so I do not have to remove gas tank anymore to work on the fuel pump.
I went really into details making 30 min video.
th-cam.com/video/DqIU2qTd3KA/w-d-xo.html
Awesome, and maybe if you replace your fuel pump it will probably restore the battery. Criss cross apple sauce.😂
Yes a low voltage on a battery can still crank a motor over if voltage is below 9volts won't fire up the start circuits such as fuel pump driver in the ECU
Be sure to watch part 2 for more detailed explanation. th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
That exact thing happened to me, fuel pump huh , thank you for the advice.
Thanks for the comment
Great Idea but my fuel pump wont turn off what would you do in this situation?
depends, if it stays running with the key off, or just when the key is on, or the just when the engine is running.
Tf do them have to make everything so complicated
Mechanical fuel pumps are what I like 🤣if ya got fuel goin thro the lines ya good if not chance the pump right on the block 💯💯😂
It is all about fuel economy and pollution control
I replaced my pump and relay. It Still won’t turn on
It was likely not the problem to begin with. You may have a worn out ignition switch, or a bad connection somewhere else, or a bad fuse.
@@MrDidrill it was the pcm
Fuel pump or not?
That sounds like the problem I was having , however the battery was strong enough most of the time but on repeated occasions would leave me cranking but not starting. On such occasions , a jump start from a truck would work but not from a small car. People were helpful and I continue to give back to others when I can. Some helpful people advised that my fuel pump was done and I considered that but it wasnt consistent with my experience. For extended periods of months the caravan would start and run fine, no falter or hiccup. Then suddenly a repeat and at times it was weeks of "will it start without a jump ". When I put the charger on the battery the problem would usually disappear for awhile. Or for so long that we forgot all about it. I nearly replaced the battery, but it worked fine in my other vehicles, so I kept it. That van worked hard for years with all sorts of other parts replaced by me (about $1000 worth) , but never a brand new battery or fuel pump.
When a fuel pump or starter goes bad, they need more amps than normal to work.You probably know about "starter drag", and the fuel pump is similar. Once the car is started, the alternator will give it the extra amps needed. There are other reasons that would cause the fuel pump to not work without extra amps, like a bad or corroded connection somewhere.
Watch part 2 for a complete explanation of how it all works th-cam.com/video/cFEEvRNyBIk/w-d-xo.html
Good info,but could I get a bad fuel pump to work temporarily?
Possibly, by jump starting It and give it more amps
@@MrDidrill That may not fair out too good💣 ☠️💥
Would this still possibly fix the isssue even when i have to push the gas petel to get it to work?
Great information. I am going to rember this video next time I suspect my fuel pump may be bad. Great, informational video!
I hope you never have the problem, as it is a real pain to change one out.
Very good information to know.I made a screenshot and will add you after I delete some that I have lost interest in.
Awesome, thank you!
I can relay to this issue. I own a 1991 Toyota pickup with a V6 and if the battery is not fully charged with 12V that pickup won't start. The pickup will crank but it won't make it pass that point. I'm very familiar with this issue after owning it for 10 years.
Thanks for the comment. That is very interesting, as it is usually caused from a fuel pump going bad. Being the age of the pickup, it could also be a bit of corrosion, or a loose connection somewhere, that needs full amps to complete the contact.
Thanks for sharing great expertise, My nissan micra 2000, 1,4, starts jerking too much and would not take race, I put it in neutral gear for a short time, after a minute or two it takes little race but does not go more than something 20 km/h, when i push accelerator, it starts jerking too much and I get afraid some thing in engines compartment can break, it will not take any race, feels like some thing inside engine is braking very hard, changed fuel filter, but it did not helped, checked electric things seems like all electric is ok.
Wonder if it fuel pump problem, if it is then why it starts all the time and goes good at speed under 50km/h.
Please advise?
Sounds like you might have a vacuum leak
MrDidrill another friend said the same. In fact i foud a thin pipe hanging near the inlet many fold, there was another connecting point. I thougt may be it went off from there so i connected it there but it did not help, pls advise how to look for vaccum leak, which part can be faulty
JUST CHANGE THE BAD FUEL PUMP... BAD ADVISE, DUDE...😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
Yes it would be a bad fuel pump, however this can give you more time to arrange for repair
Thanx it helped a lot ..❤ from india
Glad it helped!
We have a marine switch on ours something you put on a boat I guess but I’m buying a filter I just don’t know if I’m getting the right one off eBay
Good luck
I would like to say the file filter is more than likely to be cloged and when that happens fule pump over works trying to deliver the correct pressure to open injectors so eventually the pump will over heat and shut down after a while the pump my cool.off and work for a bit but If filter all messed up it will over heat again and eventually lead to a total rule pump failure
how do you hot wire it directly to the fuel pump!
fuel pump will gum up or even rust if you dont drive it for months. The amp draw on a fuel pump is about 3A so the charger on the battery would not help out. Just the act of turning the key to run a few times (hear the pump run for about 3 seconds?) usually will free a frozen pump and then the pump itself will clean itself with fresh gas. this happens to boats stored over the winter all the time. They suggest you drain the pump system of fuel before storing for long periods of time.
Another great suggestion.