Regular maintenance in most of the cars: alternator rebuild. Jag's manual: 1st step: loosen the exhaust tailpipe 2nd: remove the front passenger headlight bulb and headliner
If you think about it... it's really not that hard. Once you've done it a few times, you start not exactly to remember but to know what kind of bolts go on each place. Remembering or knowing quantity of bolts for each part usually helps s lot. But there's also a rule that fit every job...if all the bolts are different sizes and shapes for example, one won't fit where other one goes in. So... basically if you are just a little bit neat and tidy, you can separate all the bolts before starting the reassembly and you'll end up recognising them as you progress in your work. Same idea goes for bolts, parts, supports, connectors...at least for me.
love the channel, you never seem intimidated by any project. really impressive how you just work through each one step by step. Makes me wonder how fast you could assemble a kit Cobra. be fun to watch a total ground up build
So is nobody going to mention the helper? The camera person? Lol. Does JR have a friend he doesn’t show on camera? Great work separating that by yourself.
I wish my brain worked like yours the confidence its gotta take to jump into a project like this one I hope you get to enjoy this one a little bit unlike the r8
Glad to see this project coming along! It's a real shame that a lot of Jags get left by the wayside, and this one is definitely a good candidate to be brought back to life. I hope it works out in the end!
E39 540i had those same style heat exchanger for the trans cooler. I had some overheating issues with my transmission and thought the trans was going bad. Turned out the previous owner had dumped some cooling system leak sealer in the radiator and it completely blocked off that exchanger. That's the single biggest problem with these older luxury cars.......they become affordable to people who cannot afford to maintain them.
I thought I had a good memory when I was your age, but putting that thing back together would have severely taxed me. Great job and looking forward to the next instalment.
It's so crazy to keep seeing my old Z06 in the background of your shop. I had the same car (mine didn't have the mod red interior either) only it was an '03 with the silver 50th anniversary crossed flag emblems. I took off my body side moldings when I bought it because I hated the look. I still have them in the basement if you want a spare set. ;) I went the NA route because I took it to road courses and didn't want to deal with heat issues. I had LT headers and a head and cam package it was good for 450 rwhp and 43o rwtq. I put a Mallett shifter on it. I hated the stock long throw tractor shifter and didn't care for the super stiff B&M or Hurst. The Mallett was the best compromise IMO though it was rather pricey. The later mod after the C6's came out was using the C6 shifter in the C5. I also had goodies so I could drive it all day at Road America like a Rin Davis radiator along with trans and diff coolers. I ran brake ducts and spindles to complete the job the GM engineers started.
You are a better man than I am. When I hear "Jaguar" I'd be like, ah hell no! Good TH-cam content though! It will be cool to see it back on the road! Just crazy to see all that rust on a 2014! Love all your videos!
C'mon... Tom Petty said the waiting is the hardest part. But but but I've never heard it before, I'm coining the phrase "engine foreplay", inspired by the way you left us hanging there ready to see more than separating a transmission and an engine.
Ratchet straps work for many thing's, lifting engine's included, used them a couple month's ago. I find it better than trying to find places to bolt on lifting hooks for an 08 mercury milan that i pulled through the top after removing the whole front end and cowl.
Absolutely it does. Depending how far forward the rear lift points are, there is a chance that the chassis could rock backwards and fall off the lift... It might be fine, and might not...
Lol thanks for the quick note at the end - I had been sat scratching my head about... Why is he taking the engine off the transmission, when it's just the heads that are going to come off?!
Oh man, I remember my 69 Dodge slant 6 engined pickup, sat on the fender wells and performed all my maintenance in comfort with plenty of space, legs resting on the frame rails!😝😝
Looked like you had a new camera person there at the 9 minute mark. Did a good job. What happened to the other guy? Just curious. Enjoyed the video and the look at something I haven't had the Nightmare to do. lol
@@miketdavies I think poly drive is specific to Volkswagen and their brands Audi, Porsche, Bentley, ect. I also think poly drive is basically the same shape/profile as torx plus.
I am wondering which company build stroker kit (crankshaft-connecting rods-piston) cam shaft and valve and high pressure oil Pump and super charger upgrade , all I found is For Jaguar F-Type V6 / V6 S Performance kit consisting of a software remapping combined with a set of sport air filters and a modified supercharger pulley and pulley crank for increased boost. Remapping includes the optimization of various engine maps, increase of boost, the adaptation of the gearbox software and optimized power delivery throughout the entire power band. Couldn’t find long headers the original manifold can’t handle the high pressure out of the piston chamber
I remember when I was young and fearless and I'd tear into anything.... OK, I still do it but I'm old so it takes me longer. I usually avoid the European stuff just because it's a PITA though!
The Jaguar AJ-V6 engine is based on the Ford Duratec V6 engine. One notable addition is the use of variable valve timing, a feature also shared with Mazda's version of the engine.
It makes more sense to just change the engine sure changing the head gasket might work but you don't know how bad it is unless it overheated when you drove it and you shut it right off and didn't try to start it again that might work
are you saying that adding new transmission fluid accelerates how fast the transmission fails? or are you talking about when doing this job after 100k miles?
Sometimes if you don't change trans fluid early and often (especially in automatics), changing it late in life can make it worse and start to slip. Not sure if that's what he was talking about (didn't get that far yet), but that's the general trans fluid caveat.
I'd like to know this as well. I've heard that the flushs can hurt if done later in life as it stirs up stuff that has settled. However, I've always operated under the assumption that new fluid is good if you just drain and refill (even if it has a lot of miles on it).
@@rpavlik1 I wonder if I should do it on my 99 xk8 with 91k miles, I have been wanting to do it before 100k, but also afraid it will make something worse, car has been dead reliable and in my last 10k miles of daily driving it has only needed an alternator and battery. but they do have issues with pressure regulator valve and I want that plus fluid for futureproofing. i’m torn on it for sure
@@strongb05 on automatics that's definitely not true. It's good if you replace it regularly, but if you let it go over 100k at least, then don't touch it other than topping it up.
@@h7pubg do some research, see how that particular transmission is with first fluid changes later in life. The "change early or never change" is just a rule of thumb. E.g. on Saturn automatics, it's not really true, and you actually want to change the fluid and the filter (it's just a spin on) no matter what to try to avoid a gummy reverse valve which can cause a "reverse slam" - if you already have it, you can either basically do a fancy heated flush procedure (which helps but isn't a cure all), or disassemble and clean the affected valve, refilling it after.
I am a bit surprised you knelt down to do all that work when your new super cool table could have brought the whole unit up to waist level. perhaps for assembly?
i was wondering why wasting time removing the transmission when I thought the goal was to get the heads off to see what's wrong. then at the end you finally reveal what's going on... ok, but I still want to see what's wrong with that motor, maybe you don't need a new one ;-)
That's what I was thinking while watching this video. Did I skip something? Apparently no. And JR did mention at the end he will explain in an upcoming video why the old engine was beyond saving.
@@davidpick1076 He must have seen something or all the Jag techs told him not to bother and just replace with used working engine. Maybe the head gasket job is way more work, while a engine swap is faster and more straightforward.
I recently bought a 2016 3.0 F-Type with manual transmission with 30,000 miles, It doesn't look as if it's ever seen salt. Looking at this engine is the stuff of nightmares. My car is currently dead, the battery died and doesn't seem to want to take enough of a charge to allow me to open the trunk. Yay.... Pretty car though.
Probably an obvious question, but: what causes the exhaust stud bolts to be so impossible to break loose? Are they intended to be non-serviceable? Or is it just heat/age just glues them in place?
Heat cycle and corrosion. Gets red hot then cold over and over again , condensation from the heat cycle and road water causes rust which effectively glues the two surfaces (bolt and threaded hole) together and the bolt would rather snap than undo. You can reprint this with anti seize pastes however putting a paste or liquid can and will effect torque settings you can apply as you can not compress a liquid and thus essential torque settings may be effected or give you false readings after the use of pastes. Hence most manufacturers don’t use them. It’s fine to use anti seize but be aware. ✌️
AMATEUR QUESTION PLEASE : Why does changing the transmission fluid hasten the wear of the transmission ? My amateur brain thought that fresh fluid for any moving parts was always best, no ?
Changing the trans fluid only hurts when most of the clutch material is already in the old fluid. Soo as long as it shifts normally with no clunks or shudders change it! Chris fix has a great video on this
If torx doesn't fit it right it's probably a torx+ fastener torx plus looks really close to regular torx but has more material in the points of the ⭐ for strength.
Even though you have little bits and pieces that say FoMoCo, the actual ENGINE is still a Jaguar unit. Heck, those accessories aren't even made by FoMoCo but companies like Denso, Nissens, Mahle Behr, Bosch, etc who are the actual OEM suppliers.
Them exhaust manifold bolts take a Triple Square bit Toyota uses them on head bolts and a few others you should invest in some you will end up breaking Torx bits or round out the inside of them using torx
Hi that was great but don’t understand the comment about the transmission fluid. If you change the fluid, it accelerates the deterioration of the transmission?
I guess it has to do with introducing oxygen into the system and accelerating breakdown of the oil. So they must have a system in the factory that removes oxygen while adding in oil. I wonder if the Jag service centers deal with that using some piece of equipment or just crack it open the first time and not worry about it, making the assumption that most original owners won't take it much past 100k before trading it in anyway.
@@marcusdamberger my F type has covered 23k in 7 years. I was considering a gearbox service and wondered if there was a downside to a fluid change by a ZF certified shop ?
@@eileenfalcon7635 unless there’s something wrong with the block or rotating assembly just do head gaskets. It’s cheaper than a used engine, especially with these motors
Can you imagine how much it will cost to swap out the alternator, ac compressor or water pump when they fail ? You probably can not get to them with the engine in the car.
Maybe the exhaust manifold bolts are the British equivalent size, whatever they call that? It isn't popping right out of my brain at the moment but you should probably get the correct wrench whatever that size might be before you have to install the manifolds back. You definitely don't want to drop the engine again because your manifolds are leaking.
Prob that is the safest bet (new engine). But good lord, that's a little too crammed together and shoved into too tight a spot - glad my car is more service freindly. Probably be a really good idea to really fuss over the new engine to ensure everything is perfect (from pulley bearings to the water pump, etc, etc, etc) before putting it back home since the engine is now properly accessible (I'm sure you thought of that though).
@@marcusdamberger the rule of thumb I learned was if it has a dipstick then change fluid every 50k miles or 80km. If it doesn’t then leave it alone. Sealed transmissions can have the fluid replaced in them but if they have more than 100K miles on them they need to be left alone.
Regular maintenance in most of the cars: alternator rebuild.
Jag's manual:
1st step: loosen the exhaust tailpipe
2nd: remove the front passenger headlight bulb and headliner
Toyota:
1. Check electric current
2. Wash your hand
3. Done
*Rebuilding an alternator is not regular maintenance.
You gotta love that nice little "SNIK" when the exhaust manifold bolt breaks free.
New camera girl 😁
How you remember where all those parts go back where they belong amazes me, can't wait to see it go back together 👍.
If you have it on video you can replay it and hopefully see. but yes I would have lost most of the bolts after five minutes
That's why he makes the videos, it's just a bonus for us..
Since it's a Ford, there should be a Chilton's manual!
@@TheBibliofilus I've seriously considered making videos of my stuff for this exact reason
If you think about it... it's really not that hard. Once you've done it a few times, you start not exactly to remember but to know what kind of bolts go on each place. Remembering or knowing quantity of bolts for each part usually helps s lot. But there's also a rule that fit every job...if all the bolts are different sizes and shapes for example, one won't fit where other one goes in. So... basically if you are just a little bit neat and tidy, you can separate all the bolts before starting the reassembly and you'll end up recognising them as you progress in your work.
Same idea goes for bolts, parts, supports, connectors...at least for me.
love the channel, you never seem intimidated by any project. really impressive how you just work through each one step by step. Makes me wonder how fast you could assemble a kit Cobra. be fun to watch a total ground up build
What is this scam about
Dude! You should get a induction heater. Amazing for stuck nuts and bolts
man JR is making use of that huge shop. i remember the videos where they worked on it and fixed it up. its came a long way man congrats lol
Or changing an engine in a twin turbo R8 in a small home garage now he has a shop we all can drool over and dream about
@@george_cramer_1980 that too bro its been a long time lol
So is nobody going to mention the helper? The camera person? Lol. Does JR have a friend he doesn’t show on camera? Great work separating that by yourself.
One of his better looking helpers.
At about 9:40 min she appears.
@@Simplyput3451 u mean at 9:00 😂
@@nissan911 yes, about, not exact. Thx
@@Simplyput3451 your welcome 👍
There’s a replacement gf there huh lol
Either that or he recruited the Uber eats driver to hold the camera
Those exhaust manifold fasteners are Ribe bits, they're common on Voith gearbox solenoids & Vauxhall sump plugs on certain model years.
I wish my brain worked like yours the confidence its gotta take to jump into a project like this one I hope you get to enjoy this one a little bit unlike the r8
You just make it look too easy. Your videos motivated me to work on my cars way more. Thanx.
Glad to see this project coming along! It's a real shame that a lot of Jags get left by the wayside, and this one is definitely a good candidate to be brought back to life. I hope it works out in the end!
I am glad I only rebuilt an MGB engine. Amazing sophistication in these new engines and components. Beautiful car. great you are saving it..
E39 540i had those same style heat exchanger for the trans cooler. I had some overheating issues with my transmission and thought the trans was going bad. Turned out the previous owner had dumped some cooling system leak sealer in the radiator and it completely blocked off that exchanger. That's the single biggest problem with these older luxury cars.......they become affordable to people who cannot afford to maintain them.
I thought I had a good memory when I was your age, but putting that thing back together would have severely taxed me. Great job and looking forward to the next instalment.
But back then did you film the whole disassembling process with 4k cameras?
@@ssenssel This is true, but imagine re-playing the vid to find the bit you'd forgotten 🙂
@@dontuno Yeah, you right.. but this is his job 🤷♂
Tag and bag. Take a lot of pictures.
It's so crazy to keep seeing my old Z06 in the background of your shop. I had the same car (mine didn't have the mod red interior either) only it was an '03 with the silver 50th anniversary crossed flag emblems.
I took off my body side moldings when I bought it because I hated the look. I still have them in the basement if you want a spare set. ;)
I went the NA route because I took it to road courses and didn't want to deal with heat issues. I had LT headers and a head and cam package it was good for 450 rwhp and 43o rwtq.
I put a Mallett shifter on it. I hated the stock long throw tractor shifter and didn't care for the super stiff B&M or Hurst. The Mallett was the best compromise IMO though it was rather pricey. The later mod after the C6's came out was using the C6 shifter in the C5.
I also had goodies so I could drive it all day at Road America like a Rin Davis radiator along with trans and diff coolers. I ran brake ducts and spindles to complete the job the GM engineers started.
I’ve pulled cars out of ditches with 1” ratchet straps, the weakest part is the ratchet… Great job! Can’t wait to see it back together!!
R & R elbows deep... your passion is contagious!
You are a better man than I am. When I hear "Jaguar" I'd be like, ah hell no! Good TH-cam content though! It will be cool to see it back on the road! Just crazy to see all that rust on a 2014! Love all your videos!
C'mon... Tom Petty said the waiting is the hardest part. But but but
I've never heard it before, I'm coining the phrase "engine foreplay", inspired by the way you left us hanging there ready to see more than separating a transmission and an engine.
Look at a torx plus tp50, slightly larger than a standard t50, that may be what is used on the manifolds.
Ratchet straps work for many thing's, lifting engine's included, used them a couple month's ago. I find it better than trying to find places to bolt on lifting hooks for an 08 mercury milan that i pulled through the top after removing the whole front end and cowl.
Might be a stupid question. Does removing the engine change the balance on the lift?
It can.
Absolutely it does. Depending how far forward the rear lift points are, there is a chance that the chassis could rock backwards and fall off the lift... It might be fine, and might not...
Those torx on the manifolds are torxs plus, similar size but the ends are more rounded
I scrolled through the credits just so I could find out tge exhaust bolts were.
Lol thanks for the quick note at the end - I had been sat scratching my head about... Why is he taking the engine off the transmission, when it's just the heads that are going to come off?!
Oh man, I remember my 69 Dodge slant 6 engined pickup, sat on the fender wells and performed all my maintenance in comfort with plenty of space, legs resting on the frame rails!😝😝
JR, this is an awesome series.
epic video. love these projects. You make it look relatively easy, but I know it isn't
Looked like you had a new camera person there at the 9 minute mark. Did a good job. What happened to the other guy? Just curious. Enjoyed the video and the look at something I haven't had the Nightmare to do. lol
Looks good, glad to hear you’ve got a new one coming, that will make it simple.👍😎
Nice little Bob Ross reference 😉
Are the exhaust manifold bolts torx plus instead of torx?
I think they are Polydrive.
@@miketdavies I think poly drive is specific to Volkswagen and their brands Audi, Porsche, Bentley, ect. I also think poly drive is basically the same shape/profile as torx plus.
I am wondering which company build stroker kit (crankshaft-connecting rods-piston) cam shaft and valve and high pressure oil Pump and super charger upgrade , all I found is For Jaguar F-Type V6 / V6 S
Performance kit consisting of a software remapping combined with a set of sport air filters and a modified supercharger pulley and pulley crank for increased boost. Remapping includes the optimization of various engine maps, increase of boost, the adaptation of the gearbox software and optimized power delivery throughout the entire power band. Couldn’t find long headers the original manifold can’t handle the high pressure out of the piston chamber
the manifold bolts might torxplus regular torx will fit them but loosely. Lisle shows them others too.
I remember when I was young and fearless and I'd tear into anything.... OK, I still do it but I'm old so it takes me longer. I usually avoid the European stuff just because it's a PITA though!
Will we see any mods to the engine?
Ex: Exhaust, intake, etc, etc.
The Jaguar AJ-V6 engine is based on the Ford Duratec V6 engine. One notable addition is the use of variable valve timing, a feature also shared with Mazda's version of the engine.
Ratchet straps for lifting engines etc are fine back in the day we used old fan belts never dropped or slipped once
It makes more sense to just change the engine sure changing the head gasket might work but you don't know how bad it is unless it overheated when you drove it and you shut it right off and didn't try to start it again that might work
Definitely one of those engines that's very easy to work on...after you take it out.
are you saying that adding new transmission fluid accelerates how fast the transmission fails? or are you talking about when doing this job after 100k miles?
Sometimes if you don't change trans fluid early and often (especially in automatics), changing it late in life can make it worse and start to slip. Not sure if that's what he was talking about (didn't get that far yet), but that's the general trans fluid caveat.
I'd like to know this as well. I've heard that the flushs can hurt if done later in life as it stirs up stuff that has settled. However, I've always operated under the assumption that new fluid is good if you just drain and refill (even if it has a lot of miles on it).
@@rpavlik1 I wonder if I should do it on my 99 xk8 with 91k miles, I have been wanting to do it before 100k, but also afraid it will make something worse, car has been dead reliable and in my last 10k miles of daily driving it has only needed an alternator and battery. but they do have issues with pressure regulator valve and I want that plus fluid for futureproofing. i’m torn on it for sure
@@strongb05 on automatics that's definitely not true. It's good if you replace it regularly, but if you let it go over 100k at least, then don't touch it other than topping it up.
@@h7pubg do some research, see how that particular transmission is with first fluid changes later in life. The "change early or never change" is just a rule of thumb. E.g. on Saturn automatics, it's not really true, and you actually want to change the fluid and the filter (it's just a spin on) no matter what to try to avoid a gummy reverse valve which can cause a "reverse slam" - if you already have it, you can either basically do a fancy heated flush procedure (which helps but isn't a cure all), or disassemble and clean the affected valve, refilling it after.
wow that's a lot of parts to put back together .... good luck great video
3:48 Metric TORX available at Harbor Freight
Once again, you amazed me by doing that work all by yourself.
I have the 500 pound lift table from HF. It is easily the best thing I have ever bought from there.
Outstanding job as always
You are a One Man Band
Did you not see the lady friend?
@@Maybe1Someday no when
Not sure if you noticed but the exhaust studs are opposite each other. One stays in one comes out.
I am a bit surprised you knelt down to do all that work when your new super cool table could have brought the whole unit up to waist level. perhaps for assembly?
i was wondering why wasting time removing the transmission when I thought the goal was to get the heads off to see what's wrong. then at the end you finally reveal what's going on... ok, but I still want to see what's wrong with that motor, maybe you don't need a new one ;-)
I ok guess I missed it, but I thought you were going to attempt the head gaskets?
That's what I was thinking while watching this video.
Did I skip something? Apparently no. And JR did mention at the end he will explain in an upcoming video why the old engine was beyond saving.
@@davidpick1076 He must have seen something or all the Jag techs told him not to bother and just replace with used working engine. Maybe the head gasket job is way more work, while a engine swap is faster and more straightforward.
Thanks now I know why it cost a arm and a leg to replace one of these motors!
JR, great job! For being a singer, you are a great mechanic!
Exhaust bolts are a ribe socket not a torx
Has no one bought the black corvette yet? How much are you asking for it? Can't remember what you said. Definitely interested. 👍
I recently bought a 2016 3.0 F-Type with manual transmission with 30,000 miles, It doesn't look as if it's ever seen salt. Looking at this engine is the stuff of nightmares. My car is currently dead, the battery died and doesn't seem to want to take enough of a charge to allow me to open the trunk. Yay.... Pretty car though.
I use Orange harbor freight 1" straps on everything. My loads always look like a spider's web. Never failed me yet.
Probably an obvious question, but: what causes the exhaust stud bolts to be so impossible to break loose? Are they intended to be non-serviceable? Or is it just heat/age just glues them in place?
Heat cycle and corrosion. Gets red hot then cold over and over again , condensation from the heat cycle and road water causes rust which effectively glues the two surfaces (bolt and threaded hole) together and the bolt would rather snap than undo. You can reprint this with anti seize pastes however putting a paste or liquid can and will effect torque settings you can apply as you can not compress a liquid and thus essential torque settings may be effected or give you false readings after the use of pastes. Hence most manufacturers don’t use them. It’s fine to use anti seize but be aware. ✌️
It was a T55 Plus. Ford uses them on their seat mounting bolts...
AMATEUR QUESTION PLEASE : Why does changing the transmission fluid hasten the wear of the transmission ? My amateur brain thought that fresh fluid for any moving parts was always best, no ?
my amateur guess says sth to do with the break-in period of the new fluid or improper procedure when changing transmission fluid
Changing the trans fluid only hurts when most of the clutch material is already in the old fluid. Soo as long as it shifts normally with no clunks or shudders change it! Chris fix has a great video on this
@@대격변이퍽내가바로 Thank you
@@brysonshires9742 Thank you ! I will search out Chris' video.
If torx doesn't fit it right it's probably a torx+ fastener torx plus looks really close to regular torx but has more material in the points of the ⭐ for strength.
So u went down on the belt nice!!
Will there be any of the "While I'm In Here" work to do be done?
Even though you have little bits and pieces that say FoMoCo, the actual ENGINE is still a Jaguar unit. Heck, those accessories aren't even made by FoMoCo but companies like Denso, Nissens, Mahle Behr, Bosch, etc who are the actual OEM suppliers.
Who's the new girl? Can't remember the last time I saw one on your channel. 🤔🤔
New camera person.......new GF? Well done sir to find a lady who will support what you do.
How does replacing transmission fluid accelerate its wear?...
Lots of heat on exhaust bolt before tring.
Why does changing the transmission fluid cause the wear to accelerate?
Oxygen accelerates the breakdown of the oil
If you change your trans fluid it will fail quicker?
Them exhaust manifold bolts take a Triple Square bit Toyota uses them on head bolts and a few others you should invest in some you will end up breaking Torx bits or round out the inside of them using torx
Anyone know what happened w/ the gyrocopter project??
Sold it....
@@toddbowne8168 Thanks man!!
Hi JR may we ask Who was the first time guest Assistant Who appeared today in your vlog
Exhaust manifold bolts are Ribe fittings
I see the safety latch on the load hook of the engine hoist was not up to the task of handling the lateral load from the ratchet strap hooks 😂
I thought you were just doing head gaskets...why split the engine from the trans?
Hi that was great but don’t understand the comment about the transmission fluid. If you change the fluid, it accelerates the deterioration of the transmission?
I guess it has to do with introducing oxygen into the system and accelerating breakdown of the oil. So they must have a system in the factory that removes oxygen while adding in oil. I wonder if the Jag service centers deal with that using some piece of equipment or just crack it open the first time and not worry about it, making the assumption that most original owners won't take it much past 100k before trading it in anyway.
@@marcusdamberger my F type has covered 23k in 7 years. I was considering a gearbox service and wondered if there was a downside to a fluid change by a ZF certified shop ?
Bummed you had to get a new engine. Was the old one beyond repair? Or just not worth the time/money it would take to rebuild it?
It’s always cheaper to go used than rebuilt. Unless your building a race engine
@@eileenfalcon7635 unless there’s something wrong with the block or rotating assembly just do head gaskets. It’s cheaper than a used engine, especially with these motors
Could those bolts be triple squares on the header?
Love the videos JR!!
the exhaust manifold bolts are most likely spline drive vs torch drive
Gotta love it when the ting (aka the impact) goes skrrrra, pap pap pap pap pa
What model is the small Milwaukee impact that you use?
John who was the girl huh lol
Can you imagine how much it will cost to swap out the alternator, ac compressor or water pump when they fail ? You probably can not get to them with the engine in the car.
Exhaust manifold bolts might be TP50 aka T50 Plus size
Whoa that was a lot of work, you zipped through that like it was nothing!
Tear down the motor JR,
let's see what failed. 👨🔧
Nice product placement good morning from the UK
That's one one big headache. But you got it done
Loving this project
Maybe the exhaust manifold bolts are the British equivalent size, whatever they call that? It isn't popping right out of my brain at the moment but you should probably get the correct wrench whatever that size might be before you have to install the manifolds back. You definitely don't want to drop the engine again because your manifolds are leaking.
*shudder* the thought of Whitworth anything, if that’s what we’re thinking of, being used in the 21st century gives me the screaming heebie jeebies.
as you have a new engine on the way you should send this one to I Do Cars and let him do a tear down video on it
I think you should start giving repairability scores like iFixit. Jag f type v6 ... 2/10.
John Ross going Bob Ross for the win 🎉👍
Another great video from JR. Thanks
Those funny sizes torx bolts are e-torx used on all European cars
Prob that is the safest bet (new engine). But good lord, that's a little too crammed together and shoved into too tight a spot - glad my car is more service freindly. Probably be a really good idea to really fuss over the new engine to ensure everything is perfect (from pulley bearings to the water pump, etc, etc, etc) before putting it back home since the engine is now properly accessible (I'm sure you thought of that though).
Spambot reported...
Dos that jag have two belt tensors?
Do you think changing trans fluid in autos is bad actually?
In these newer designs they are sealed systems, and oxygen free to extend the life of the oil. Designed that way to make them last longer.
@@marcusdamberger the rule of thumb I learned was if it has a dipstick then change fluid every 50k miles or 80km.
If it doesn’t then leave it alone.
Sealed transmissions can have the fluid replaced in them but if they have more than 100K miles on them they need to be left alone.