Looking at this I can tell you that the EFi wiring is from a Land Rover, or Range Rover, That white multi plug in the engine bay is a Lucas Rists 'E-series' plug, and as a result definitely not from the P6. That white plug (for example) normally lives inside the car, and judging by the wiring colours) contains door lock and window wiring, as such this can be disregarded. The big brown (always permanent +12V) shrink-wrapped bundle is standard Lucas wiring, and is used in lieu of a junction box to connect multiple items to power, I would be 99% sure that whoever built the car, used a hybrid of the original P6 loom (identifiable by the use of bullet connectors) which will operate all the lights controls etc, and the EFi engine loom is from the LR/RR. I'm not being critical, but two lads, who don't know basic wiring colours and what they do, poking and prodding in the dark will never make heads nor tails of it. Hot wire EFi is a fairly simple system, the P6 wiring is even simpler. Get a P6 wiring loom diagram, and a Range Rover Hotwire loom. Treat them as two separate systems, and all that the EFi system will need is a permanent +12V and a switch +12V from the ignition. Other than that, it's a totally self contained system, and far more reliable than carbs can ever dream of being.
Aaron, that headache/nightmare I was taking about has just begun, what the heck! did you not look round it b4 handing over the cash? I bet that Reg bloke couldn't belive his luck when you turned up with a pocket full of cash and he was able to off load it, i bet he said to his wife, " hey up love we've got 1 here" basically it's a carburettor car that's had an efi engine screwed in the hole and that's about it, that loom looks like it's to suit a carb setup where's the ecu? The only difference between that and a normal p6 is a glass roof,some american spec bumpers, some hideous bonnet vents, oh and a few extra courtesy lights, why don't you just take them off and screw them to your hearing aid beige p6 if thats what your into and save yourself a load of hassle and money, you have a perfectly good p6 there that could bring loads of good content to the channel, this is just gonna cost you loads of money which youve said many times you dont have, 😬
It's not like that at all I have know Reg for years and he told me very clearly it all needed ripping out and doing again there was no dishonesty at all. The ECU is under the glove box on the passenger side and the loom is a stock P6 loom with the EFI engine loom grafted into it and that's very normal with EFI swaps the main thing is just the wires all over the place and random wires just linked to nothing so the best bet is to rip that out and fit the new one from the boot on. We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot he has worked on discos and done car electrics for over 25 years and it's 2 days work max for him it's really not as morbid as you say.
Sheldon sheldon sheldon ! What have you done.didnt realise it doesnt run.you got rid of a perfectly good 3.5 in the last car for this giant paper wieght.please dont let it be kismet 2.0
Oh god no this car is 5X better then Kismet ever was! We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess!
Oh it’s sure to run !!! Badly lol 😂 and Sheldon will probably palm it off to one of his mates and lose money and move on to the next, but please please NO NAKED DANCING 😁 we are sensitive souls in Cornwall.
Move it on Sheldon; unless you have deep pockets it will cost a fortune to get the thing on the road; would the guy who you got it off buy it back?? Good for content mind!!
No it's not as bad as it looks evrything else won't cost me anything as I have all the parts and my local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in a day.
First job is to get the car off the street, then if you have a new wiring harness take all the old rubbish away. You need a third person along with Dave to install it. I would say at least 3/4months. Get rid of the efi and use a simple carb solution. Best of luck 😂
We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess! It won't take anywhere near that long this electrical chap said it's a day work to fit the new loom.
I wouldn’t bother with the EFI they can be very troublesome especially if you don’t have wiring and sensors for it, if it’s extra performance your after put a Holley carb and manifold on the engine easy reliable and no extra wiring to worry about.
Why have you bought a car that has wiring in this state? What happened to the tan one ? That was a good runner. I hate to say it sheldon, but i think a lot of people here, see you coming.
You have said exactly what I thought. Can't understand anyone buying what contrary to all that Practical Classics stuff is an unfinished non running project.
😮@cliffordison5004 I would love to see him succeed with one of these, but I'm guessing the tan one is now sold ? A half decent car. And if he isn't going to use one of these as an everyday run around, then whatever he has, needs to be dry stored. Seeing this with half of the wiring with nowhere to go under the bonnet, leaves me somewhat speechless?
I have had over 30 P6's and yes it's a right mess we are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess!
You've a massive challenge on your hands with the wiring chaos there. You need the original wiring diagrams and two people communicating who recognise each end of the colour coded wires and thier function in the circuit diagram. You need a ohmmeter, preferably with long leads which can connect to both ends of the wires to be checked - and check there are no short circuits to chassis. Sensors, motors, relays, solenoid actuators etc. need to be checked if they function, sometimes the may be redundant.. etc. Good luck with this, you'll have to do this task systematically.
We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess!
Hi Sheldon. That centre panel with the ignition switch drops out of the dashboard. It's just held in by two self tapping screws on either side, under the rubber end joints. There should be some Lucas 6RA relays ( those oblong alloy canister type), for the alternator, starter, ignition. Depending on model and year, they'll be on the inner wing, near the brake fluid reservoir, or inside above the glove box area. You would be better off getting the correct engine loom and ECU then splicing it into the car loom. You'll need a suitable EFI electric fuel pump too. You'll need to check and match it to the engine number as there are different control systems used. All the main electrics pick up from a brass contact stud under the r/h/ carpet. They are notorious for deteriorating and causing odd electrical failures and high resistance faults.
Yes Brian those switches have a habit of failing so I am going to replace the ignition switch and see if that gets us lights on the dash but we will be ripping all that out and fitting the new un butchered one that's in the boot soon.
@classic_britain Hi Sheldon, I agree. A lot of the original main loom looks to have been extensively chopped and messed around with. The ignition switch doesn't look to have much of a spring resistance between the Start and Run positions either. It was a common failure on some P6 models, and there are different ignition switches on P6 models. The later P6 could have illuminated switches too, green coloured switch knobs that were back-lit via bulbs on a clear plastic facia plate. If you get the correct 3.9 Range Rover / Discovery loom for the engine, it's quite a simple job to wire it into the main car loom. I converted an old P6B/ SD1 3.5 carb manual gearbox power unit in a friend's Trike, over to a 1990's spec 3.9 EFi Range Rover engine and ZF auto transmission, so it will work fine once wired up. Check your engine number, it will start, for example.... 35D****, 36D****, 37D****, 38D**** , etc. If you find that serial number, stamped on a web on the left hand side of the block between the middle two cylinders, I can tell you the approximate year and model your engine was originally fitted in, which will determine the correct engine loom and ECU you will need for the type of EFi it has. You'll need a suitable higher pressure fuel pump to keep up supply to the EFi too as a carburettor system fuel pump isn't strong enough.
@classic_britain As to the instrument lights not working.... The illumination is powered via the main light switch, and an in-line rheostat knob that dims or turns the instrument lights off. The switch panel lights, if it has them fitted, are not affected by dimming the instruments. The ignition switch should only control the main warning lights for oil pressure, alternator non charging, and parking brake on. The rheostat switch does fail, usually due to tarnished contacts inside, which you can open up to clean. It is usually a small black knob located on the instrument binnacle, depending on the year and model. I would thoroughly check that connector stud under the carpet, below the pedal box. The nylon insulation is notorious for cracking either inside the car or under the floorpan where it feeds power to the starter motor. If the starter sounds like it's struggling to spin the engine, and you're getting odd electrical issues, that double-ended brass connector is the prime suspect. They can deteriorate, especially if the car has had pevious water leaks, causing damp carpets and insulation.The nylon insulator should be white, but often looks discoloured, cracked and brittle due to getting hot and damp allowing it to short to earth.. I've had to replace a few as they can simply break apart as you loosen the terminal nuts. They are often the cause of a burning smell in the car when high resistance causes overheating. The entire supply for all the vehicle electrics comes from that take-off point from the main battery cable, so it has to be 100% good contact and insulated from the metal bodyshell it passes through.
Wow Sheldon what a spaghetti mess that is. I hope you get it sorted. personally if it was me I'd go for the holly carb and replace the loom. All the best to you
Anyway Sheldon what does a car need electrics for 🤔, just another thing to go wrong😂 , gosh anyone into PLUGILINGUS would love your car , it’s obsolete plug heaven 😂.
Sphagetti junction on wheels lol. I hate car electrics when they are in that kind of mess - it takes an age to unscramble and put right. Good luck.(David will get you there eventually).
"Theres a new loom in the boot". Yeah thats ok if and only if every single wire is labelled with what it corresponds to, and if you know what you're doing.
Think it’s a case of old wire and new wire mixed in. Vw beetles are not that bad. Like you mention start with new ignition and run new wires from there . Haynes or Google for wiring looms 👍 good luck
NOT a disaster but simply a conundrum, maybe put a feeler out for an owner of the original car/standard engine to find where the wires are supposed to go? Don't just give up on understanding wiring diagrams, it is easy to just say "I cannot do that" but how many things can you do routinely now that a few years ago you admitted that you couldn't? Hang on in there - you have the intelligence and stamina to do this so don't question yourself.
Given enough time Dave would sort it, but without any diagrams to help I'd email practical classics and see if they know anyone in the area who'd atleast assist with information, you need your very own Edd China I'm afraid. This is where classic car clubs fall down, there's some very bright people in them but they are useless at sharing experience/information. By the looks of it you need diagrams for the P6 and whatever the engine came out of. You don't seem to have all the sensors it's supposed to have because the wires lead nowhere 😢
It's a stock Disco V8 engine loom so pretty simple I have a guy here who has worked with loads of them over the years and he can fit the new loom in a day so it's not a big deal honestly.
@@classic_britain will be watching to see how it goes 👍 I know a bit about electrics, enough to let the magic smoke out anyway 😁 you will be testing someone's patience getting that nest sorted. Good luck with it 👍
Long job. Hellish to come up behind someone elses mess. One thing at a time, and be ready to replace sections to get power where its needed, easier sometimes than trying to make good someone elses nest. Without a diagram, this is a labour if live/love. But not impossible, just very time consuming.
Say, I do hope you chaps disconnected the battery before you started working. None of those wires are Lucas code which is really not helpful either. My 1980 MGB has solid red wire, not connected to anything, which is live and appears on no wiring diagram. I insulated the end and left it. I always tell people don’t hack the loom!
Do you still own the brown P6 or the Turmeric SD1 V8? Plow your money in to a car that is serviceable and running, My advice cut your loses sell the car to someone who knows whet they are doing with electrics, The car looks like it needs completely rewiring
We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess!
Well just take a step back possibly get someone who knows auto electrics , and take ot step by step , anything is doable always just takes time and patience 😊😁🤗
Looks a right mess and a nightmare and expensive if you use expert looking at and fuel injection and old efi (maybe) but I would not have a clue with that old rover I'm sure someone will help you out I no it's a big job I would put the other wiring loom in take the whole old lot out as you don't want a electrical fire
Sheridan is that your car? If it is apart from the engine everything else it’s alright but apart from the wiring it’s a bag of shit anything to try and connect it you might get it on. 😮😮😮😮😮😮
Wouldn't reg re do it 4 u if u paid him him or is the wiring diagram from a rover injection the lump etc was removed from??Awesome car tho m8 i reckon u should leave it efi once u got answers etc bro??
Why not make things easier for yourself and download a copy of the British Standards wiring colours (1963). Most British made manufacturers used the same wiring colours throughout their vehicle production .. Simple really !!
Looking at this I can tell you that the EFi wiring is from a Land Rover, or Range Rover, That white multi plug in the engine bay is a Lucas Rists 'E-series' plug, and as a result definitely not from the P6. That white plug (for example) normally lives inside the car, and judging by the wiring colours) contains door lock and window wiring, as such this can be disregarded. The big brown (always permanent +12V) shrink-wrapped bundle is standard Lucas wiring, and is used in lieu of a junction box to connect multiple items to power,
I would be 99% sure that whoever built the car, used a hybrid of the original P6 loom (identifiable by the use of bullet connectors) which will operate all the lights controls etc, and the EFi engine loom is from the LR/RR.
I'm not being critical, but two lads, who don't know basic wiring colours and what they do, poking and prodding in the dark will never make heads nor tails of it.
Hot wire EFi is a fairly simple system, the P6 wiring is even simpler.
Get a P6 wiring loom diagram, and a Range Rover Hotwire loom. Treat them as two separate systems, and all that the EFi system will need is a permanent +12V and a switch +12V from the ignition. Other than that, it's a totally self contained system, and far more reliable than carbs can ever dream of being.
I’ve run a Land Rover garage for 30 years and had rover p5/6 all my life, totally agree with you
I was about to comment exactly the same thing.
Aaron, that headache/nightmare I was taking about has just begun, what the heck! did you not look round it b4 handing over the cash? I bet that Reg bloke couldn't belive his luck when you turned up with a pocket full of cash and he was able to off load it, i bet he said to his wife, " hey up love we've got 1 here" basically it's a carburettor car that's had an efi engine screwed in the hole and that's about it, that loom looks like it's to suit a carb setup where's the ecu? The only difference between that and a normal p6 is a glass roof,some american spec bumpers, some hideous bonnet vents, oh and a few extra courtesy lights, why don't you just take them off and screw them to your hearing aid beige p6 if thats what your into and save yourself a load of hassle and money, you have a perfectly good p6 there that could bring loads of good content to the channel, this is just gonna cost you loads of money which youve said many times you dont have, 😬
Hey Clive why don't you say it how it is and not hold back .
It's not like that at all I have know Reg for years and he told me very clearly it all needed ripping out and doing again there was no dishonesty at all.
The ECU is under the glove box on the passenger side and the loom is a stock P6 loom with the EFI engine loom grafted into it and that's very normal with EFI swaps the main thing is just the wires all over the place and random wires just linked to nothing so the best bet is to rip that out and fit the new one from the boot on.
We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot he has worked on discos and done car electrics for over 25 years and it's 2 days work max for him it's really not as morbid as you say.
Lol I'm sorry, but yeh I think your right a new ignition barrel will do the trick 😉
Ì suggested this too
I feel for David, that is a nightmare for any auto electrician! I think he has the right idea getting the engine to run on carbs first!
I bet Reg and his pals are pissing there sides down the pub as he gets the rounds in with aarons money 🍻
No not at all he's not like that at all known him for years.
Sheldon sheldon sheldon ! What have you done.didnt realise it doesnt run.you got rid of a perfectly good 3.5 in the last car for this giant paper wieght.please dont let it be kismet 2.0
Oh god no this car is 5X better then Kismet ever was! We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess!
if that car is ever finished and runs right i will travel down to cornwall and say im sorry whilst dancing naked with a traffic cone on my head!
If I lived closer to Sheldon, you’d lose that bet.
Oh it’s sure to run !!! Badly lol 😂 and Sheldon will probably palm it off to one of his mates and lose money and move on to the next, but please please NO NAKED DANCING 😁 we are sensitive souls in Cornwall.
Get your cone ready.........
😂😂😂
Move it on Sheldon; unless you have deep pockets it will cost a fortune to get the thing on the road; would the guy who you got it off buy it back?? Good for content mind!!
No it's not as bad as it looks evrything else won't cost me anything as I have all the parts and my local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in a day.
First job is to get the car off the street, then if you have a new wiring harness take all the old rubbish away. You need a third person along with Dave to install it. I would say at least 3/4months. Get rid of the efi and use a simple carb solution. Best of luck 😂
We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess! It won't take anywhere near that long this electrical chap said it's a day work to fit the new loom.
I wouldn’t bother with the EFI they can be very troublesome especially if you don’t have wiring and sensors for it, if it’s extra performance your after put a Holley carb and manifold on the engine easy reliable and no extra wiring to worry about.
Lol sounds like your in the middle of a bird sanctuary and dogs home😅🤸🤣🤸🤣
Why have you bought a car that has wiring in this state? What happened to the tan one ? That was a good runner. I hate to say it sheldon, but i think a lot of people here, see you coming.
You have said exactly what I thought. Can't understand anyone buying what contrary to all that Practical Classics stuff is an unfinished non running project.
😮@cliffordison5004 I would love to see him succeed with one of these, but I'm guessing the tan one is now sold ? A half decent car. And if he isn't going to use one of these as an everyday run around, then whatever he has, needs to be dry stored. Seeing this with half of the wiring with nowhere to go under the bonnet, leaves me somewhat speechless?
I've had 6 of these p6 over the years but have never ever seen wiring like this good luck boys this may cost a few quid to sort.
I have had over 30 P6's and yes it's a right mess we are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess!
I've never seen this Monty Python sketch before..😂, seriously though I hope it all turns out fine, best of luck to you.
You've a massive challenge on your hands with the wiring chaos there. You need the original wiring diagrams and two people communicating who recognise each end of the colour coded wires and thier function in the circuit diagram.
You need a ohmmeter, preferably with long leads which can connect to both ends of the wires to be checked - and check there are no short circuits to chassis.
Sensors, motors, relays, solenoid actuators etc. need to be checked if they function, sometimes the may be redundant.. etc.
Good luck with this, you'll have to do this task systematically.
We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess!
Hi Sheldon. That centre panel with the ignition switch drops out of the dashboard. It's just held in by two self tapping screws on either side, under the rubber end joints. There should be some Lucas 6RA relays ( those oblong alloy canister type), for the alternator, starter, ignition. Depending on model and year, they'll be on the inner wing, near the brake fluid reservoir, or inside above the glove box area. You would be better off getting the correct engine loom and ECU then splicing it into the car loom. You'll need a suitable EFI electric fuel pump too. You'll need to check and match it to the engine number as there are different control systems used. All the main electrics pick up from a brass contact stud under the r/h/ carpet. They are notorious for deteriorating and causing odd electrical failures and high resistance faults.
Yes Brian those switches have a habit of failing so I am going to replace the ignition switch and see if that gets us lights on the dash but we will be ripping all that out and fitting the new un butchered one that's in the boot soon.
@classic_britain Hi Sheldon, I agree. A lot of the original main loom looks to have been extensively chopped and messed around with. The ignition switch doesn't look to have much of a spring resistance between the Start and Run positions either. It was a common failure on some P6 models, and there are different ignition switches on P6 models. The later P6 could have illuminated switches too, green coloured switch knobs that were back-lit via bulbs on a clear plastic facia plate. If you get the correct 3.9 Range Rover / Discovery loom for the engine, it's quite a simple job to wire it into the main car loom. I converted an old P6B/ SD1 3.5 carb manual gearbox power unit in a friend's Trike, over to a 1990's spec 3.9 EFi Range Rover engine and ZF auto transmission, so it will work fine once wired up. Check your engine number, it will start, for example.... 35D****, 36D****, 37D****, 38D**** , etc. If you find that serial number, stamped on a web on the left hand side of the block between the middle two cylinders, I can tell you the approximate year and model your engine was originally fitted in, which will determine the correct engine loom and ECU you will need for the type of EFi it has. You'll need a suitable higher pressure fuel pump to keep up supply to the EFi too as a carburettor system fuel pump isn't strong enough.
@classic_britain As to the instrument lights not working.... The illumination is powered via the main light switch, and an in-line rheostat knob that dims or turns the instrument lights off. The switch panel lights, if it has them fitted, are not affected by dimming the instruments. The ignition switch should only control the main warning lights for oil pressure, alternator non charging, and parking brake on. The rheostat switch does fail, usually due to tarnished contacts inside, which you can open up to clean. It is usually a small black knob located on the instrument binnacle, depending on the year and model. I would thoroughly check that connector stud under the carpet, below the pedal box. The nylon insulation is notorious for cracking either inside the car or under the floorpan where it feeds power to the starter motor. If the starter sounds like it's struggling to spin the engine, and you're getting odd electrical issues, that double-ended brass connector is the prime suspect. They can deteriorate, especially if the car has had pevious water leaks, causing damp carpets and insulation.The nylon insulator should be white, but often looks discoloured, cracked and brittle due to getting hot and damp allowing it to short to earth.. I've had to replace a few as they can simply break apart as you loosen the terminal nuts. They are often the cause of a burning smell in the car when high resistance causes overheating. The entire supply for all the vehicle electrics comes from that take-off point from the main battery cable, so it has to be 100% good contact and insulated from the metal bodyshell it passes through.
You are braver man than me that looks like a nightmare
Wow Sheldon what a spaghetti mess that is. I hope you get it sorted. personally if it was me I'd go for the holly carb and replace the loom. All the best to you
Anyway Sheldon what does a car need electrics for 🤔, just another thing to go wrong😂 , gosh anyone into PLUGILINGUS would love your car , it’s obsolete plug heaven 😂.
Yep at least the starter is ok and engine turns over ! 🤣🤸😃🤸😂🤸🤣
Hi Sheldon wow its a lot worse than I thought good luck cheers 🥂
That looks like the engines have a range Rover discovery 😮😮😮😮😮
It is indeed
Sphagetti junction on wheels lol. I hate car electrics when they are in that kind of mess - it takes an age to unscramble and put right. Good luck.(David will get you there eventually).
"Theres a new loom in the boot". Yeah thats ok if and only if every single wire is labelled with what it corresponds to, and if you know what you're doing.
buy that man a tissue!
Think it’s a case of old wire and new wire mixed in. Vw beetles are not that bad. Like you mention start with new ignition and run new wires from there . Haynes or Google for wiring looms 👍 good luck
Dave is the man.
Keep the Efi, will run beautifully
NOT a disaster but simply a conundrum, maybe put a feeler out for an owner of the original car/standard engine to find where the wires are supposed to go? Don't just give up on understanding wiring diagrams, it is easy to just say "I cannot do that" but how many things can you do routinely now that a few years ago you admitted that you couldn't? Hang on in there - you have the intelligence and stamina to do this so don't question yourself.
Given enough time Dave would sort it, but without any diagrams to help I'd email practical classics and see if they know anyone in the area who'd atleast assist with information, you need your very own Edd China I'm afraid. This is where classic car clubs fall down, there's some very bright people in them but they are useless at sharing experience/information. By the looks of it you need diagrams for the P6 and whatever the engine came out of. You don't seem to have all the sensors it's supposed to have because the wires lead nowhere 😢
It's a stock Disco V8 engine loom so pretty simple I have a guy here who has worked with loads of them over the years and he can fit the new loom in a day so it's not a big deal honestly.
@@classic_britain will be watching to see how it goes 👍
I know a bit about electrics, enough to let the magic smoke out anyway 😁 you will be testing someone's patience getting that nest sorted. Good luck with it 👍
Long job. Hellish to come up behind someone elses mess. One thing at a time, and be ready to replace sections to get power where its needed, easier sometimes than trying to make good someone elses nest. Without a diagram, this is a labour if live/love. But not impossible, just very time consuming.
I dislike wiring on cars,especially if someones installed an alarm or a stereo . I have pulled yards of crapulous wiring from cars over the years .
Say, I do hope you chaps disconnected the battery before you started working. None of those wires are Lucas code which is really not helpful either. My 1980 MGB has solid red wire, not connected to anything, which is live and appears on no wiring diagram. I insulated the end and left it. I always tell people don’t hack the loom!
Be a good bloke who could tell where and what wires go where with a multimeter with the battery disconnected
Do you still own the brown P6 or the Turmeric SD1 V8? Plow your money in to a car that is serviceable and running, My advice cut your loses sell the car to someone who knows whet they are doing with electrics, The car looks like it needs completely rewiring
Yep still got the brown one and the SD1 is my mum and is going to be sold as she can't drive anymore.
@classic_britain that's really sad to hear buddy, the brown P6 sounds really nice as does the SD1, Mk1 Manual, a very rare car
Nothing is plugged in because the wiring loom looks like it’s out of a Range Rover, it needs re-wiring from scratch! IMHO
We are going to fit a new ignition switch and see if that get's us the lights on the dash but I am getting a local car electrical wiz to rip out that EFI loom and fit the new one in the boot as the original is a right mess!
A very useful book (not cheap) if you can get a copy, “The hack mechanic guide to European automotive electrical systems” by Bentley publishers.
Public Library may help, and a phone camera 😊
Best to have a look in boot Haynes manual will be there somewhere. Good 🤞
I'd get the efi off that mate and go carb. Ex owner did that to mine because it was a pain.
Start with a new ignition switch use a UK 1 and adapt if needed you need a range rover with that engine in to copy from
Well just take a step back possibly get someone who knows auto electrics , and take ot step by step , anything is doable always just takes time and patience 😊😁🤗
Too much of a job to put it back to original condition sell it for spares good body and interior
I don't intend to put it back to original....
Looks a right mess and a nightmare and expensive if you use expert looking at and fuel injection and old efi (maybe) but I would not have a clue with that old rover I'm sure someone will help you out I no it's a big job I would put the other wiring loom in take the whole old lot out as you don't want a electrical fire
Tape up what's not relevant to reduce confusion.
Sheridan is that your car? If it is apart from the engine everything else it’s alright but apart from the wiring it’s a bag of shit anything to try and connect it you might get it on. 😮😮😮😮😮😮
It is indeed my car and it's a very good one just not the electrical part were going to rip this loom out and fit the new one in the boot soon
See if furious driving can help you with a wiring diagram
Wouldn't reg re do it 4 u if u paid him him or is the wiring diagram from a rover injection the lump etc was removed from??Awesome car tho m8 i reckon u should leave it efi once u got answers etc bro??
He is in no state with his health to do anything that's why he let the car go also cool name LOL
...the thigh bone connects to the.....errrr😊
You won't get any ignition etc until you plug in the alternator
Makes no odds tried it
Mr rude and mr clueless
Your comment is most helpful, if it was me you aimed it at, I'd simply block you 🖕
Definitely that David hasn't got a clue by the looks of it Stan and ollie comes to mind
Why not make things easier for yourself and download a copy of the British Standards wiring colours (1963). Most British made manufacturers used the same wiring colours throughout their vehicle production .. Simple really !!
This guy is a little stuck in the past, power probe for starters, good luck…