👉 BIGTREETECH BTT Smart Filament Sensor SFS 2.0 Comparison, Disassembly and Installation🔥🔥
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2023
- In this video I will go cover the new BTT Smart Filament Sensor SFS 2.0, changes from V1, disassembly and installation. ENJOY!
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The rubber things go on the coupler. Put it over the screw, and screw it on. You will need to push it while you screw it in the first couple turns.
A trick I use to identify wire colours in a cable harness when I only have black wire is to put short lengths of coloured heat shrink tubing at both ends of each wire.
I actually do the same! Thank you for sharing the tip!
the manual says blue will stay on or off when no motion is detected, so the purple situation is included in the manual: purple=red+blue, So: no filament(red on) + no motion(blue on or off, in this case, on)=purple
Good call. Thanks for the information!
I was wondering, what hardware did you use to mount this? Really want to use this when mine shows up
BTT claim the new model can run filament either direction. Well, so could the first version! The main difference between the two models is the addition of the microswitch, and it looks as though they have revised/improved the tension mechanism. This was the main issue with the first version - far too much tension on the filament out of the box.
Thank you for your comment. I have both and they both work well. I just like the form factor of this one better.
How about drag? I am happy with version 1 but I have a feeling it adds quite a bit of resistance to the extrusion, does version 2 grip more gently?
Same boat
No it still grabs pretty hard but it rolls smooth through the sensor. I have not had any issues with it slipping and I've put many rolls through it.
Honestly, I don't understand in what case you need both sensors. If there is no filament inserted (or it is finished) - motion sensor will detect that too.
Having both sensors allows the hardware/firmware to differentiate between the 2 possible conditions: filament runout or filament stoppage due to a tangled spool or a skipping/slipping extruder gear for example. It's not absolutely necessary but it does allow more flexibility if for example you want different G-code commands executed for each of those scenarios.
What if I want to only use motion sensor (without switch, no ports available on MCU) - how it should to be connected?
Just connect the wires for only the motion to the board and not the wires for the microswitch
The rings were to protect the threads on the couplers
yup both mine were still on the couplers in the bags :)
Thanks! Both mine were off.
How would i install this on my ender 3 s1 pro. 402 board?
I'm not familiar with that board. I would have to research it. Have you figured it out?
how would you connect this to a SKR Mini E3V3?
You would use E0 and maybe pwr-det. I would have to look into that.
Use PC12 and PC15
the encode wheel is still metal btw
maybe you have a different one. The V1 was metal but the black encoder wheel in my V2 is definitely plastic.
@@dadwillmake check again, It's aluminum,just anodized black,scratch it and you'll see the metal underneath
Background music super annoying
I'll keep that in mind
They're all mediocre at best... none of them provide reverse e-step feedback (act like a reverse extruder that reads filament volume)
I will double check to see if this can do that. I thought I read somewhere that it could but I might be mistaken. Thank you for watching
@@dadwillmake It can't... it needs a geared wheel with laser sensor (like a mouse wheel) to make contact with filament so it can count the rotation e-steps