Im a retired ASE master, I always was stuck on stant brand thermostats, but now they have also gone to the sub quality side as well as about all thermostats, I have a problem with my thermostat sticking closed intermittently. once I rev the engine while going down the road after my chime goes off indicating a high temp,it has been opening then and coming down quickly off the H. I have tried many brands since only to have a sticking closed problem all the time. I have even found a OS-oem mopar thermostat and it did the same. system has been flushed,new hoses,cap,reservoir,water pump,and radiator. I found stant went downhill when Motorad bought them out and now they are owned & manufactured in Israel,Galilee. also I remember that if a engine is running cooler then manufacture specs it will ruin the bore. the cylinder specs are determined by the heat it will run at,if it runs too cold the cylinders do not expand to manufacture specs and the pistons & rings with enlarge the bore due to clearance issue
Respectfully, at 04:45 in, you're wrong about the "if it's rated at 160*, it should be fully open at 160*". That 160* is only where it should *start* to crack open. And it won't be be fully open until it gets 15-18* hotter than that.
It’s very dependent on the spring rate which the wax motor acts against. I’m sure compromises have been made in the last couple years with sourcing springs for bottom shelf thermostats. Bottom line is that you should test them if they are a hassle to swap. And if it acts at too high a temp I’d take material off of the spring, by filing, or sanding if a return isn’t possible.
Here's a bit of experience I've had with a specific brand of thermostat. Every thermostat I've ever put in a car seems to open right around it's rated temp and will hold the engine temp at the rated temp going down the road and prolonged idling will creep up maybe 10 degrees from the rated temp depending on the car. The Motorad UltraStat high flow thermostats, I've used two of those over the years. They will open at the rated temp but on a colder day (65F or cooler) going down the road will run about 10 or so degrees colder than the spec unless you really put a load on the engine to get it hot or get on the freeway for a long time. If you idle in traffic it will get to its rated temp but once you're going it'll cool back off again. If it's about 65F or so degrees out or hotter then it will run at its rated temp going down the road and prolonged idling will creep up 10-15 degrees depending on how hot and humid it is outside. I put one of those in my truck years ago and didn't like it since it was being used as a daily driver year around but for one of my fun cars it seems to work very well. The first one I thought I got a bad one but apparently that's how they seem to be designed to work, never seen another brand of thermostat act like that. It does have a much larger plate that opens than a stock thermostat does. Ever seen any other brand of thermostats act like this?
I’ve seen ones that were 20-30 degrees off but that’s been extremely rare. What you’re describing though. Wow. That’s insane. Heat in an engine is a good thing. Not enough heat is as bad as too much heat. That sounds horrible!
@@MuscleCarSolutions What is weird is both are different part number 180 degree thermostats, both behave exactly the same way. I prefer it for my 390 because anything over 190 degree running temperature it starts to loose a bit of power since there is so much under hood heat from that thing. Really didn't like it for a everyday winter driver though.
I am having the same issue with a high flow dayco for my Cleveland engine it is opening 6 degrees celcuis earlier than the rating and my engine isn't up to temp except on a really hot day
I always drill a small steam hole in every thermostat sometimes two and I run the hottest thermostat my engine will allow usually 180 or 195 but most of the time I run a 195 even on my carbureted cars
Great video. My 65 chevy truck does not have a thermostat but i will after watching your video. My question to you is why does my overflow hose from radiator leak if my engine only running at 175? degrees?
Thanks for the info got a local part's store thermostat 180 degree in my 396 Camaro never overheats but runs about 200 degrees in traffic, wonder if I should go to the edelbrock 160 thermostat? Keep the videos coming
200 is just about perfect. That’s the number I always shoot for. It’s gotta have some heat in it. That’s how the fuel gets the better burn rate. I’d stay right where you’re at! Sounds like you’re pretty dialed in.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes I usually run on 195 with everything else right it stays at 195 it does not fluctuate whatsoever but if I go any lower on the temp it does and I won't run a 210 to me that's a little excessive considering the boiling point in southern Heat
Yeah found this out just yesterday.. been having a issue since vintage air was installed.. 190 thermostat opening around 210 .. 180 thermostat opening around 200.. still questioning the mechanical water temp gauge.
One of those little details that any DIY owner can do and can make a world of difference. I’m still amazed every time I check one and how far off some can be. But at least knowing where it opens can help make a good trouble shooting decision. Your example highlights that for sure.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah its usually a learning experience when the unexplainable happens .. I just found my overheating issue mechanical gauge reads high (been questioning the thing)its about 90° here car in the shade dead cold Gauge is reading 120° thermocouple on multimeter reading almost 30° lower haha .upgraded to 3000cfm flex lite fan with shroud trying to solve this issue lmao
@@codyramos3200 it’s probably a more common problem than anyone realizes. I guess this is one of those times when you can verify if the gauge is correct when you know when the thermostat opens.
this test is not accurate because youre pulling a cold item in hot water its going to take time for the item to warm up if you put the item in the water before it gets hot then youll get a different result
Result is still the same no matter how quickly or how slowly the heat is applied. For as long as they were in the water at temperature, any variance would have been gone in a very short amount of time. I ran these several times and some just in and out of the water to verify the open. I am running the 160 in my truck and like clockwork when the temp gauge hits around 175, the temp drops slightly as the thermostat opens and allows more volume of flow. Matches almost perfectly to the result I got on the bench test.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I partly agree with @Derron Britton, if you put the thermostat into cold water and make them warm, should change things. Here you measure the time at which wax changes. Also. It could could interesting letting the thermostat remaining at its opening temperature, to see if it requires aditionnial temperature, or just time to open.Nice videa anyway.
Im a retired ASE master, I always was stuck on stant brand thermostats, but now they have also gone to the sub quality side as well as about all thermostats, I have a problem with my thermostat sticking closed intermittently. once I rev the engine while going down the road after my chime goes off indicating a high temp,it has been opening then and coming down quickly off the H. I have tried many brands since only to have a sticking closed problem all the time. I have even found a OS-oem mopar thermostat and it did the same. system has been flushed,new hoses,cap,reservoir,water pump,and radiator. I found stant went downhill when Motorad bought them out and now they are owned & manufactured in Israel,Galilee. also I remember that if a engine is running cooler then manufacture specs it will ruin the bore. the cylinder specs are determined by the heat it will run at,if it runs too cold the cylinders do not expand to manufacture specs and the pistons & rings with enlarge the bore due to clearance issue
Respectfully, at 04:45 in, you're wrong about the "if it's rated at 160*, it should be fully open at 160*". That 160* is only where it should *start* to crack open. And it won't be be fully open until it gets 15-18* hotter than that.
It’s very dependent on the spring rate which the wax motor acts against. I’m sure compromises have been made in the last couple years with sourcing springs for bottom shelf thermostats. Bottom line is that you should test them if they are a hassle to swap. And if it acts at too high a temp I’d take material off of the spring, by filing, or sanding if a return isn’t possible.
was your temp guage calibrated or tested to verify its acuracy ,,,great video i like videos like this
Here's a bit of experience I've had with a specific brand of thermostat. Every thermostat I've ever put in a car seems to open right around it's rated temp and will hold the engine temp at the rated temp going down the road and prolonged idling will creep up maybe 10 degrees from the rated temp depending on the car. The Motorad UltraStat high flow thermostats, I've used two of those over the years. They will open at the rated temp but on a colder day (65F or cooler) going down the road will run about 10 or so degrees colder than the spec unless you really put a load on the engine to get it hot or get on the freeway for a long time. If you idle in traffic it will get to its rated temp but once you're going it'll cool back off again. If it's about 65F or so degrees out or hotter then it will run at its rated temp going down the road and prolonged idling will creep up 10-15 degrees depending on how hot and humid it is outside. I put one of those in my truck years ago and didn't like it since it was being used as a daily driver year around but for one of my fun cars it seems to work very well. The first one I thought I got a bad one but apparently that's how they seem to be designed to work, never seen another brand of thermostat act like that. It does have a much larger plate that opens than a stock thermostat does. Ever seen any other brand of thermostats act like this?
I’ve seen ones that were 20-30 degrees off but that’s been extremely rare. What you’re describing though. Wow. That’s insane. Heat in an engine is a good thing. Not enough heat is as bad as too much heat. That sounds horrible!
@@MuscleCarSolutions What is weird is both are different part number 180 degree thermostats, both behave exactly the same way. I prefer it for my 390 because anything over 190 degree running temperature it starts to loose a bit of power since there is so much under hood heat from that thing. Really didn't like it for a everyday winter driver though.
I am having the same issue with a high flow dayco for my Cleveland engine it is opening 6 degrees celcuis earlier than the rating and my engine isn't up to temp except on a really hot day
Great video, really looking forward to the cooling system video.
I always drill a small steam hole in every thermostat sometimes two and I run the hottest thermostat my engine will allow usually 180 or 195 but most of the time I run a 195 even on my carbureted cars
Not sure what the minuscule additional flow is gaining, but as long as it continues to work for you, good deal!
@@MuscleCarSolutions helps with a blown head gasket ☺️
I’m so glad I found this channel!!!!!!
Me too!
Great information. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Thanks much! Appreciate it!
Great video. My 65 chevy truck does not have a thermostat but i will after watching your video. My question to you is why does my overflow hose from radiator leak if my engine only running at 175? degrees?
Thermal expansion. Run a tank to catch it.
Good video, good content. Thanks for the info
Thank you Jeff. Very much appreciate that.
Best video on this that I've seen..
Thanks!
Thanks for the info got a local part's store thermostat 180 degree in my 396 Camaro never overheats but runs about 200 degrees in traffic, wonder if I should go to the edelbrock 160 thermostat? Keep the videos coming
200 is just about perfect. That’s the number I always shoot for. It’s gotta have some heat in it. That’s how the fuel gets the better burn rate. I’d stay right where you’re at! Sounds like you’re pretty dialed in.
I have that same problem in my 85 small block C10
@@MuscleCarSolutions yes I usually run on 195 with everything else right it stays at 195 it does not fluctuate whatsoever but if I go any lower on the temp it does and I won't run a 210 to me that's a little excessive considering the boiling point in southern Heat
Yeah found this out just yesterday.. been having a issue since vintage air was installed.. 190 thermostat opening around 210 .. 180 thermostat opening around 200.. still questioning the mechanical water temp gauge.
One of those little details that any DIY owner can do and can make a world of difference. I’m still amazed every time I check one and how far off some can be. But at least knowing where it opens can help make a good trouble shooting decision. Your example highlights that for sure.
@@MuscleCarSolutions yeah its usually a learning experience when the unexplainable happens .. I just found my overheating issue mechanical gauge reads high (been questioning the thing)its about 90° here car in the shade dead cold Gauge is reading 120° thermocouple on multimeter reading almost 30° lower haha .upgraded to 3000cfm flex lite fan with shroud trying to solve this issue lmao
@@codyramos3200 it’s probably a more common problem than anyone realizes. I guess this is one of those times when you can verify if the gauge is correct when you know when the thermostat opens.
Great info with demo!!
Thanks man!
Great video , lots of good info!!! Thanks again !!!!
Hey Tool Junkie. Good to see you. Thank you!
thanks, very helpful video
Have owned many hot rods. I toss the thermostat and use restrictor plates.
Just a thought. But would the coolant flow and pressure, possibly help push it open quicker?
Slightly, but not enough for such a wide disparity in opening events on these thermostats.
. would think that pressure is on both sides of thermostat ... not going to push open thermostat
What heating element did you use? And a clear glass jar of water?
The set up that’s in the video.
this test is not accurate because youre pulling a cold item in hot water its going to take time for the item to warm up if you put the item in the water before it gets hot then youll get a different result
Result is still the same no matter how quickly or how slowly the heat is applied. For as long as they were in the water at temperature, any variance would have been gone in a very short amount of time. I ran these several times and some just in and out of the water to verify the open. I am running the 160 in my truck and like clockwork when the temp gauge hits around 175, the temp drops slightly as the thermostat opens and allows more volume of flow. Matches almost perfectly to the result I got on the bench test.
@@MuscleCarSolutions youre wring its not the same as slowly heating up vs dropping it in extremely hot water
That theory didn’t play out in the test. Open and close was the same no matter when the thermostat was introduced.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I partly agree with @Derron Britton, if you put the thermostat into cold water and make them warm, should change things. Here you measure the time at which wax changes. Also. It could could interesting letting the thermostat remaining at its opening temperature, to see if it requires aditionnial temperature, or just time to open.Nice videa anyway.
Were these motorad?
I've never tested a thermostat. Waist of time I just replace it if I think it's bad.
@@garysgarage.2841 when it actually opens is a good thing to know. I wouldn’t call it a waste of time.