I had a problem with mine at idle. It would overheat in 3-4 minutes after it warmed up. Checked/ changed everything, built a bigger, tighter shroud, most powerful fan Summit sells, etc. A total stranger with more gray hair than me asked me if I had changed the fuel pump. Yep. He said that anything over 7psi would cause it to run hot at idle. It was almost 9. Bought an adjustable regulator from Summit, set it at 5 psi and no more issues. I’m running a mechanical fan with no shroud, ac, and somewhere in the neighborhood of 360 hp. I would have never figured it out. Even in a car that doesn’t necessarily run hot, it will run cooler with the regulator. Most newer pumps are making around 7+ psi. Thanks as always for good content.
Mr Jeff this is one time I hope I get a response from you, Mr Ford, all pound intended. I'm coming to the end of a 2 1/2 yr restoration of a 1970 Mach 1, I know it never ends. Like you, this restoration is not for everyone to look at and judge, speaking restomod this is gunna be Wayne's stang thanks to moving it around for yrs like furniture. If I had known of the Ford, rebuilt 6 to 8 stock engines thru my life and always had good luck, this will be my first build up, was a stock 302 with 2bbl carb, with no researching, I spent over $500 on stock ford heads at the machine shop, bought a comp cams magnum 31-326-3 kit cam and lifter, has 280 degrees duration and 512 degrees of lift, had block bored to .60 over, bought new pistons, bought a high-rise aluminum intake cuz it offered 500 extra rpms so rpm optimal is idle to 6000 and bought a 600cfm 4160 Holley with the washable oval k & n full filter the hood just closes with out hitting. Mr Jeff have I created a monster that I will regret or if u have any suggestions, I'd love to hear ur opinion
I don't think that you've created a monster the only thing I'm concerned about is you may have to put a stall converter in the transmission if you are running an automatic. With a 5-speed that cam will work great. The 600 CFM Holley depending on which one of them it is may or may not perform to the level you needed to with that much cam. Best bet is to put it all in there and try driving it and see what you get.
Great show and very important. Early Mustangs 289, with a/c used big block cooling system. My 68 mustang used 390 radiator, 190 Thermostate, and used large blade fan. The water pump is a high flow with a diesel radiator fluid. It now runs at 190 all the time, sometimes up to 195. I have used 3 core aluminum and electric fan, with a larger alternator to handle the fan. It did not work. I found a complete kit from West coast cougar. 10 years finally found the right set up, Ford had it right from the factory.
I "thought" I had an overheating issue in my F100 with a 460 a couple of summers ago. It would creep up to 215* before I'd shut it off while idling. Decent radiator on it, but the previous owner had a couple ebay fans zip tied to the radiator. Basically did minimal work. I put a Derale dual fan/shroud kit on and have NEVER had issues since. I even went back to putting in a 195* t-stat after I went down to a 180* t-stat to help combat the original overheating issue. Engine idles at 195 and goes down to the 180's in the summer while cruising.
Nice job explaining some of the issues that cause overheating. Cam mentioned the radiator getting plugged. Very common in poorly maintained vehicles. One thing to consider, the block can also become plugged. If the radiator is plugged, good chance the block is too. Had a stock 302 that kept overheating on long drives, or after a lot of idling in hot weather, or under heavy sustained loads. Kind of seemed random as it didn’t always overheat and never got to the point that the radiation was chooching like a steam engine. Everything seemed to be working correctly. Radiator was new due to a leak. Good flow could be seen at the cap, thermostat was opening, good temp difference between inlet and outlet,(feeling by hand) car had factory shroud and fan. Hoses were new and not plugged. Even got out the parts cannon and replaced the water pump. Finally flushed the block and radiator and got some gunk out but flush water never really cleaned up like it should have. Found the water jackets in the block were full of sediment. The previous owner ran water in it for years and all the rust settled in the block. Thoroughly flushed the block and overheating solved. The random overheating made sense. The water pump was essentially circulating coolant through the radiator and heads. Because coolant wasn’t flowing through the block, it would become heat soaked to the point it would overheat what little water was moving through the radiator and the heads and the radiator couldn’t keep up. When I replaced the radiator, I didn’t check to see if it was plugged because of a major leak on the tank seam but I guarantee it was partially plugged. This was years ago before infrared thermometers were a thing. It would be a quick diagnosis with an infrared thermometer or camera these days.
As always another great video. In Australia and have a 70, 351 Windsor Mach 1. First thing we did was replace the radiator with 3 core 24 inch radiator and put a clutch fan in and added a new thermostat....all good. Now this is the part I hope you don’t laugh to loudly about. For years been running 20w 60 oil. ( I call it glue!) The car developed a sticky lifter and a mate said run 10w 40 ( ULX110 Aussie oil) to help clean the lifter which it did. Now this is the strange notable benefit, the car runs 10 degrees cooler all the time now. Sounds like a believe it or not story but it’s true. Have you ever heard anything like this before???
Thanks for a great video! Lots of good info in it. Got a 73 Mercury with a 351C which started overheating at stoplights on hot days. Turns out the radiator cap was only holding partial pressure. Cap looked perfect, no steam coming out, firm hoses, no leaks. Put new cap on. No more over heating, even with the wrong 195 F stat.
My 68 cougar always overheated..then i put a radiator in with the inlet and outlet on opposite sides..worked great. I just had to weld new radiator brackets
🔔😎 3:50 1990 TownCar, etc. used a flat multi V belt (serpentine type) and standard rotation water pump, etc. Also a reverse rotation pump will NOT fit onto a standard rotation timing cover.
Great discussion! I’ve been lucky enough to run the Hot Rod Power Tour a few times. Getting through that is all about cooling. A bunch of cubic inches does you no good with a geyser erupting out of your radiator as you wait to get into a venue.
Solved my overheating '65 F100 by replcing the 4 blade fan with an 8 blade fan on a fan clutch. (Had already cleaned the radiator, replaced head gasket and replaced water pump.
A few years back I had a cooling issue at highway speeds. Really hot! It turned out to be a collapsing lower radiator hose at higher rpm. I found a lower hose with an internal coil spring, and that solved the problem. No problems since. Same radiator, same water pump. I have added an electric fan setup since (Taurus), and it works really well.
As much as I hated paying for it, but I am having good luck with Evan’s waterless coolant. Same for aluminum as it doesn’t have water that leads to corrosion.
67 to 70 a/c cars had a condenser that allowed airflow around them. A wider condenser that covers the radiator will cause temperatures to climb at highway speeds> The narrower condenser creates a low pressure area between the radiator and condenser that assists in maintaining airflow speed to the radiator
Great information fellas! I have 67coupe with a 302, AC, power steering that overheats. I can run it on the highway at about 60 mph and it will stay around 180. If I push it faster it will creep up to 220 and i will slow down and it will go back down to to 180. It will also overheat fast on hot days at a stop light. I have done everything you two talk about and more with no good result, still the same. I’m thinking something internal. My question is what do you think an internal problem could be? By the way the head gaskets are on correctly.
I did an engine swap on a 2007 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. We put in a 1969 5.0 302. The issue I'm having is that it's overheating at idle or when driving around 50 km/h (sorry, Canada, lol). Also, if I'm at highway speed, the temperatures are good, but once I start driving at slower speeds or coasting in a parking lot, it overheats. Even after letting it cool to about 180 and starting to drive again, even at 80 km/h, it won't drop below 200 degrees. We're thinking of putting in a 4-core radiator with a shroud as the stock radiator is very thin. We also changed out the fan to two 12-inch fans that run at a lower amperage but has no shroud since the 65-amp alternator couldn't keep up with the high-amp stock fan.
The other thing peaple dont realized is a properly presssurised system does raise the boiling point of the coolant. Also I have realy good luck with the Ford clutch fans.
AWESOME time for cooling problems video!.....my waterpump JUST STARTED vibrating last few days on 76 390 FE. it doesnt LEAK ..........YET. BUT im thinking i should change it asap , correct? ANYWAYS, before this happenned on a really hot day i had overfilled rad WITH WATER, , not noticing the yellow sticker do not overfill line, and some coolant overflowed out the tube on the side. No biggie BUT once i turned it off hot, some coolant PEE-ED OUT THE FRONT in a tiny lil stream. SO i guess ive got a pinhole in my original rad? IT HASNT LEAKED SINCE....but it hasnt been that hotout either[it was 33 C in canada] i already have a NEW aluminum 3 core wwith electric fans BUT if it never leaks again will i get lucky for yrs or will it leave me stranded on the road, pee-ng into the rad, lol? regardless, after new waterpump, i will ensure it has at least 30% coolant if not 50% , truck is new to me so no idea but it looks murky green not bright green so im thinking its mostly water.
Assuming everything is in good order 1.25 or 1.5 inch twin tube alloy radiators are great if combo is struggling ie limited radiator size high hp larger than 350 cuin . etc [ NB 1 inch twin tube is only a stock replacement for smaller than 350 ] ALL fan types benefit from fan shroud Air con condenser fan needs to be 20amp SPAL Pusher 11,12,13,14 bigger is better ,,wired by relay to compressor [when running mechanical fan on engine ] When running elec fans have the sender unit adapter welded into radiator vs under hose or fin sensor
180 is anout right, and 210 is too much. Actually your engine will start to tell you before the temperature gauge will. It'll start running funny and it'll probably start puking coolant
@AutoRestoMod ok thanks it's been getting up to around 210 in stop and go traffic but I don't want to go with electrical fans I been trying to keep a orginal look with alil chrome upgrades under the hood
I run one on a highly built 383 Camaro. Only issue I had was cheap connection that came with the pump. Not water proof. I went to AutoZone found a water tight connector like a trailer wiring just for two wires. Worked every time since.
What?! Head gasket problem on the exhaust side? Could you say that again? Because that doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Epoxy on a fuel line?! Who would do that. You know what, never mind I don't want to know. Anyway great video guys thanks.
I had a problem with mine at idle. It would overheat in 3-4 minutes after it warmed up. Checked/ changed everything, built a bigger, tighter shroud, most powerful fan Summit sells, etc. A total stranger with more gray hair than me asked me if I had changed the fuel pump. Yep. He said that anything over 7psi would cause it to run hot at idle. It was almost 9. Bought an adjustable regulator from Summit, set it at 5 psi and no more issues. I’m running a mechanical fan with no shroud, ac, and somewhere in the neighborhood of 360 hp. I would have never figured it out. Even in a car that doesn’t necessarily run hot, it will run cooler with the regulator. Most newer pumps are making around 7+ psi. Thanks as always for good content.
Most of us wouldn't have thought of that one, either.
Mr Jeff this is one time I hope I get a response from you, Mr Ford, all pound intended.
I'm coming to the end of a 2 1/2 yr restoration of a 1970 Mach 1, I know it never ends. Like you, this restoration is not for everyone to look at and judge, speaking restomod this is gunna be Wayne's stang thanks to moving it around for yrs like furniture. If I had known of the Ford, rebuilt 6 to 8 stock engines thru my life and always had good luck, this will be my first build up, was a stock 302 with 2bbl carb, with no researching, I spent over $500 on stock ford heads at the machine shop, bought a comp cams magnum 31-326-3 kit cam and lifter, has 280 degrees duration and 512 degrees of lift, had block bored to .60 over, bought new pistons, bought a high-rise aluminum intake cuz it offered 500 extra rpms so rpm optimal is idle to 6000 and bought a 600cfm 4160 Holley with the washable oval k & n full filter the hood just closes with out hitting. Mr Jeff have I created a monster that I will regret or if u have any suggestions, I'd love to hear ur opinion
I don't think that you've created a monster the only thing I'm concerned about is you may have to put a stall converter in the transmission if you are running an automatic. With a 5-speed that cam will work great. The 600 CFM Holley depending on which one of them it is may or may not perform to the level you needed to with that much cam. Best bet is to put it all in there and try driving it and see what you get.
Great show and very important. Early Mustangs 289, with a/c used big block cooling system. My 68 mustang used 390 radiator, 190 Thermostate, and used large blade fan. The water pump is a high flow with a diesel radiator fluid. It now runs at 190 all the time, sometimes up to 195. I have used 3 core aluminum and electric fan, with a larger alternator to handle the fan. It did not work. I found a complete kit from West coast cougar. 10 years finally found the right set up, Ford had it right from the factory.
My cougar 302" was ordered from the factory with that set up. She runs great with the Holly EFI
I "thought" I had an overheating issue in my F100 with a 460 a couple of summers ago. It would creep up to 215* before I'd shut it off while idling. Decent radiator on it, but the previous owner had a couple ebay fans zip tied to the radiator. Basically did minimal work.
I put a Derale dual fan/shroud kit on and have NEVER had issues since. I even went back to putting in a 195* t-stat after I went down to a 180* t-stat to help combat the original overheating issue. Engine idles at 195 and goes down to the 180's in the summer while cruising.
Nice job explaining some of the issues that cause overheating. Cam mentioned the radiator getting plugged. Very common in poorly maintained vehicles. One thing to consider, the block can also become plugged. If the radiator is plugged, good chance the block is too. Had a stock 302 that kept overheating on long drives, or after a lot of idling in hot weather, or under heavy sustained loads. Kind of seemed random as it didn’t always overheat and never got to the point that the radiation was chooching like a steam engine. Everything seemed to be working correctly. Radiator was new due to a leak. Good flow could be seen at the cap, thermostat was opening, good temp difference between inlet and outlet,(feeling by hand) car had factory shroud and fan. Hoses were new and not plugged. Even got out the parts cannon and replaced the water pump. Finally flushed the block and radiator and got some gunk out but flush water never really cleaned up like it should have. Found the water jackets in the block were full of sediment. The previous owner ran water in it for years and all the rust settled in the block. Thoroughly flushed the block and overheating solved. The random overheating made sense. The water pump was essentially circulating coolant through the radiator and heads. Because coolant wasn’t flowing through the block, it would become heat soaked to the point it would overheat what little water was moving through the radiator and the heads and the radiator couldn’t keep up. When I replaced the radiator, I didn’t check to see if it was plugged because of a major leak on the tank seam but I guarantee it was partially plugged. This was years ago before infrared thermometers were a thing. It would be a quick diagnosis with an infrared thermometer or camera these days.
Very good show/reminder of stuff we take for granted!! Heat is #1 enemy of longevity.
Thank you
As always another great video. In Australia and have a 70, 351 Windsor Mach 1. First thing we did was replace the radiator with 3 core 24 inch radiator and put a clutch fan in and added a new thermostat....all good. Now this is the part I hope you don’t laugh to loudly about. For years been running 20w 60 oil. ( I call it glue!) The car developed a sticky lifter and a mate said run 10w 40 ( ULX110 Aussie oil) to help clean the lifter which it did. Now this is the strange notable benefit, the car runs 10 degrees cooler all the time now. Sounds like a believe it or not story but it’s true. Have you ever heard anything like this before???
I haven't heard of that before, but I also know that sticky parts make for heat.
Thanks for a great video! Lots of good info in it. Got a 73 Mercury with a 351C which started overheating at stoplights on hot days. Turns out the radiator cap was only holding partial pressure. Cap looked perfect, no steam coming out, firm hoses, no leaks. Put new cap on. No more over heating, even with the wrong 195 F stat.
My 68 cougar always overheated..then i put a radiator in with the inlet and outlet on opposite sides..worked great. I just had to weld new radiator brackets
🔔😎
3:50
1990 TownCar, etc. used a flat multi V belt (serpentine type) and standard rotation water pump, etc.
Also a reverse rotation pump will NOT fit onto a standard rotation timing cover.
Great discussion! I’ve been lucky enough to run the Hot Rod Power Tour a few times. Getting through that is all about cooling. A bunch of cubic inches does you no good with a geyser erupting out of your radiator as you wait to get into a venue.
Solved my overheating '65 F100 by replcing the 4 blade fan with an 8 blade fan on a fan clutch. (Had already cleaned the radiator, replaced head gasket and replaced water pump.
A few years back I had a cooling issue at highway speeds. Really hot! It turned out to be a collapsing lower radiator hose at higher rpm. I found a lower hose with an internal coil spring, and that solved the problem. No problems since. Same radiator, same water pump. I have added an electric fan setup since (Taurus), and it works really well.
Wrap a coat hanger around a broom handle and make a "spring".
As much as I hated paying for it, but I am having good luck with Evan’s waterless coolant. Same for aluminum as it doesn’t have water that leads to corrosion.
67 to 70 a/c cars had a condenser that allowed airflow around them. A wider condenser that covers the radiator will cause temperatures to climb at highway speeds> The narrower condenser creates a low pressure area between the radiator and condenser that assists in maintaining airflow speed to the radiator
Great information fellas! I have 67coupe with a 302, AC, power steering that overheats. I can run it on the highway at about 60 mph and it will stay around 180. If I push it faster it will creep up to 220 and i will slow down and it will go back down to to 180. It will also overheat fast on hot days at a stop light. I have done everything you two talk about and more with no good result, still the same. I’m thinking something internal. My question is what do you think an internal problem could be? By the way the head gaskets are on correctly.
Excellent information. Thanks for another awesome video.
I did an engine swap on a 2007 Crown Vic Police Interceptor. We put in a 1969 5.0 302. The issue I'm having is that it's overheating at idle or when driving around 50 km/h (sorry, Canada, lol). Also, if I'm at highway speed, the temperatures are good, but once I start driving at slower speeds or coasting in a parking lot, it overheats. Even after letting it cool to about 180 and starting to drive again, even at 80 km/h, it won't drop below 200 degrees. We're thinking of putting in a 4-core radiator with a shroud as the stock radiator is very thin. We also changed out the fan to two 12-inch fans that run at a lower amperage but has no shroud since the 65-amp alternator couldn't keep up with the high-amp stock fan.
Good discussion. Thanks for the advice. 👍👍👍
The other thing peaple dont realized is a properly presssurised system does raise the boiling point of the coolant. Also I have realy good luck with the Ford clutch fans.
Good point
A bigger fan
The pulley/fan bolt pattern is WIDER on a reverse rotation vs std rotation pump. Keeps the unknowing from finishing bolting everything together.
AWESOME time for cooling problems video!.....my waterpump JUST STARTED vibrating last few days on 76 390 FE. it doesnt LEAK ..........YET.
BUT im thinking i should change it asap , correct?
ANYWAYS, before this happenned on a really hot day i had overfilled rad WITH WATER, , not noticing the yellow sticker do not overfill line, and some coolant overflowed out the tube on the side. No biggie BUT once i turned it off hot, some coolant PEE-ED OUT THE FRONT in a tiny lil stream. SO i guess ive got a pinhole in my original rad?
IT HASNT LEAKED SINCE....but it hasnt been that hotout either[it was 33 C in canada]
i already have a NEW aluminum 3 core wwith electric fans BUT if it never leaks again will i get lucky for yrs or will it leave me stranded on the road, pee-ng into the rad, lol?
regardless, after new waterpump, i will ensure it has at least 30% coolant if not 50% , truck is new to me so no idea but it looks murky green not bright green so im thinking its mostly water.
Jeff, I'll bring my 1967 Mustang, and you can see all the problems you described on one vehicle.
Try putting a 302 water pump on it. Older Ford friend had issues even swapped the radiator for aluminum, water pump swap fixed his issues.
Assuming everything is in good order
1.25 or 1.5 inch twin tube alloy radiators are great if combo is struggling ie limited radiator size high hp larger than 350 cuin . etc [ NB 1 inch twin tube is only a stock replacement for smaller than 350 ]
ALL fan types benefit from fan shroud
Air con condenser fan needs to be 20amp SPAL Pusher 11,12,13,14 bigger is better ,,wired by relay to compressor [when running mechanical fan on engine ]
When running elec fans have the sender unit adapter welded into radiator vs under hose or fin sensor
What a good running temperature for a chevy 409 and what's to hot of a temperature to let it get to ?
180 is anout right, and 210 is too much. Actually your engine will start to tell you before the temperature gauge will. It'll start running funny and it'll probably start puking coolant
@AutoRestoMod ok thanks it's been getting up to around 210 in stop and go traffic but I don't want to go with electrical fans I been trying to keep a orginal look with alil chrome upgrades under the hood
What is too hot? I’m 180 driving and rise to 200 sometimes higher at idle.
A lot ppl put so much money on there paint,wheels and interior but no money under the hood… or braking system..
Purists will always diss them, but a really good electric fan was all I needed after trying literally everything else.
31:50
Look up coolant eutectic point.
Thanks for rehashing all the cooling system wives' tales.
Fellas, how does an electric water pump fit into this equation? Are they long term reliable or mainly race applications?
I'd say race application
I run one on a highly built 383 Camaro. Only issue I had was cheap connection that came with the pump. Not water proof. I went to AutoZone found a water tight connector like a trailer wiring just for two wires. Worked every time since.
What about timing?
What?! Head gasket problem on the exhaust side? Could you say that again? Because that doesn't make any sense whatsoever. Epoxy on a fuel line?! Who would do that. You know what, never mind I don't want to know. Anyway great video guys thanks.
Oh, the amount of fabriccobble there is in the world is almost staggering
Stump water's fine...😂
Did you mention the fact some people put the thermostat in the wrong direction. And can cause it to run warm.