Hi from NZ. Ex automotive machinist and long time user of manual lathes. Love your clips. And the pink coolant is wonderful lol. Its eye opening to see you fellas working on the big gear. Always impressed with the depth of your cuts and size of the chips coming off. It's brilliant to see your shop dogs too. Definitely one of the reasons you guys and Kurtis, Karen and Homeless at CEE are some of my favorite TH-camrs
Good boy dogs and heavy machining. I'm all in. I'm apprenticing with a tool and die maker. Videos like yours make me want to step out of my comfort zone and try new and bigger jobs!
A shop dog and a great machining channel! hells yeah, I'm in. I only work on small little parts so its nice to see the other end of the spectrum in the machining world.
Dogs for the win 🤣🤣 Back in the 80s we had a shed pig named Elvis, and a random cockatoo that flew in one day. Thanks for the kind feedback too mate! Much appreciated 🙏👊
Notice that the lathe speeds up as the piece is worked inward, keeping the linear cutting speed constant and increasing the efficiency of the operation.
Love your outright honesty Hal! Click abled ads, majes you the man, and people will watch them. Awesome content, cant wait to see the drill. Thanks. Go Aussie! 10/10
Cheers Phil. Yeah, my goal is to keep ads / promo to an absolute minimum. I detest non-clickable ads... its why I never watch ANY free to air TV haha. Looking forward to the big rig in action too! It'll be a beast. Thanks for the great feedback mate. Appreciate it.
Re chip breaking with the internal groove my thoughts are increase feed rate to .2to .3mm/rev maybe even more.,and drop surface speed by 10-20%, apply raw soluble oil with no water added and if that fails assuming you have minimized overhang turn the bar upside down and run the spindle in reverse, however the thinner the material is getting out from the iD of the groove to the od of the part the vibration will work against you, another trick is to do the grooving and boring before reducing the OD so the work is more rigid, skinny sleeves squeal and the tool height fluctuates and does not relieve the material at a constant rate, just keep trying heavy feed rates and even go under 120m/min, the answer is in the fine tuning, previous comment about adjusting tool center height has a lot of merit, especially on 431 SS. Condition T 4140 responds well to wide variations in changing the approach angle of the insert by pivoting the tool post and changing the actual length of the cut as opposed to depth really well especially on tools like the CNMG when roughing out on the OD, I have also found tightening up anything loose on the machine and bringing in the tailstock close to the headstock and locking it down removes a few mysterious conditions, first job on a cold morning is another tip, hope it goes well for you, good video.
Hey. I hear you asking about the internal groving. I do a lot of this in really tough or chewy? (not my default language) material (like soft aluminium or stainless steels) - and depending on my working place, im not able to stand by and watch the whole part running. Best way for me is to interrupt the cut after 1.25 spindel revolutions by withdrawing the tool. So when my feed per revolution is 0.1 i have have 0.125 of cutting dept before i withdraw the tool for 0.15mm or so. It sounds crazy, but works perfect and it isn't that slow as it sounds, when your cnc is able to withdraw the tool in G0.
My experience with those tools is that put off long curls, no chips! Especially with the high strength steel you are using. Good luck sir. Looking forward to seeing this machine being built and used. YAY!
I’m a CNC Machinist in the drilling Industry for NoDig Equipment Perth WA. I use SECO grooving inserts (LCMF160402-0400-FT CP500) at 0.18mm/rev and 130m/min. I use Korloy part-off inserts (Saw Man-X) at 0.16mm/rev and 160m/min. If I have bad chip control for grooving or threading I increase the spindle speed. For turning and boring I increase the feed. Usually just on the dials. High pressure coolant will also help. My colleagues use dwelling or pecking to break a chip when grooving. Although iv always managed without it.
Thanks man. I appreciate the comment. Super useful info that I’ll apply in some future runs. We run some seco gear and it’s really good stuff. Might have to look into their grooving tools. Using Iscar at the moment, just because it’s so easy to order to be totally honest. Kennametal has dropped the ball big time in Australia…
Sometimes you just have to say " bugger, just peck it" just found your channel and I love it. I too have resorted to regrinding custom chip groves but I must admit I have NEVER done work the size you buggers are doing. Your tool rep will be happy to sell you all sorts of solutions, I am sure! G'day from Tasmania
Hay mate love the channel we do a fair bit of vig stuff with plenty of groves looks good from here all we do is a 4mm peck on the X leaving a .2 finish cut running along the Y axis.Cheers from Tasmania
Greetings from NSW. I use fanuc and fagor controls at work. I use a pecking grooving cycle for internal work. Usually 0.25 on radius pecks and return 0.05. Doesn't take too much longer and swarf is a better size.
Awesome to know. Thanks for that. I think I’ll reset the grooving programs for pecking. Especially on deeper grooves. The long swarf drives me nuts. Out of curiosity, do you prefer the Fanuc or Fagor controllers??
Hi Just discovered your channel. It is great. Like the camera work and that you explain what you’re going to do. Great attitude and no ego 👍👍👍 NSW Australia
Thanks a bunch great. That’s really helpful feedback in all honesty. I like to explain what’s going on, mostly because it’s stuff I wanted to know about when I started as a machinist.
Sounds like you need a vertical boring machine . I run one that swings 1.4 metres they're such a versatile machine and way easier to set up then a horizontal lathe. Cheers.
Funny you should mention it… Im looking into one right now. It seems like a bloody good option. Do you have any recommendations for good, reliable, heavy duty machines? I’ve got no experience with this type of machine.
@@halheavyduty yer a good old Webster and Bennett Ora bullard or schiess are fairly bullet proof machines . You probably don't need a twin turret, get one with a adjustable turret head so you can machine taper angles . And preferably one with screw cutting capabilities. Cnc versions are a shit ton of $$ so probably not worth it for 1 or 2 of jobs. If the budget and shed space allows it a machine with a 42 inch or 1 metre chuck would be a bonus. Hope you find one there really a great machine to have in any heavy machining shop.
Mi Matt, I couldn’t help but noticing that when doing a facing job, as the cutter moved towards the centre of the workpiece, the angular velocity increased. Is this a CNC control feature or is it built into basic functions of the lathe? It’s just that I have been looking around for a new lathe and a couple mention automatic speed compensation. I guess it means that you choose a CPM rate and the machine does the rest. Cool!
The machine has CSS - constant surface speed. So you just choose you VC (in this case I think it was 170) and the machine increases RPM as the cut decreases on the X axis to compensate automatically. It makes for really good surface finish, and supposedly increases tool life - which makes sense.
Hi again. The guy below uses Seco and that is the company I worked for for 28 odd years. The grooving tools he is refering too are one of the best on the maket. However to get chip contol maybe put a pause in the program every few seconds and mechanically break the chip? Cheers Ian, New Zealand
This drill is gonna be a monster, as well as a huge time/money/materials investment. Got to ask, what on earth needs holes as big and deep as that ? Enjoy watching the videos 👏👏👏
internal grooving sucks full stop. you can get some chips with super aggressive feeds but even then some times you just get thicker flat bar coming out. I would say look at different chip breakers on the insert so talk to you tooling supplier on that. With that said those chips look pretty good to me even if they are a bit of a string of death.
Good to know. And I pretty much agree. I’ve gone rather aggressive on other parts and I just get super thick strings of gnarly swarf! Might just peck cycle it for deeper cuts in the future. Thanks for the input 👊
I feel your pain of machining in the relative middle of nowhere. I'm in NZ only 3 other cnc shops in my area (one of which I collaborate with) and not having many people to bounce ideas off of. The other fun is getting tooling when shops are nowhere nearby. I have a customer who keeps sending me parts with 20-30 diameter deepth holes in odd sizes like 3.1mm and wonders why it takes my supplier 3 weeks to to get me parabolic drills delivered from Germany so he can get his parts.
I'm in Holland and we ordered a carbide drill and pilot drill from Walter on Friday afternoon and got in Monday before lunch time. Drilled the holes today with the sales rep present and it was pretty impressive. Chip evacuation by high pressure coolant. Do your (deep hole) drilling on a suitable mill and not a lathe if available because on the mill there's no alignment issues.
Yeah man, it’s challenging hey. One of the outcomes I’m hoping for the channel is to get ideas from all around the world on how we can do things better. I’ve got no ego around “my way is the best way” so really open to good suggestions wherever they come from… … and if they work really well I’ll be sharing it. 3.1mm hole. Fark. That’d do my head in 😂😂
@@halheavyduty Did alignment on the small Okuma just a few weeks ago. At least one of the 12 tool positions is now perfectly on center with the machine. I had to adjust the turret rotationally, it was off by about 0.2 mm which is pretty dramatic. I have yet to check for deviation between all turret positions (which I expect to be minimal). As I remember, X offset deviations can be corrected for by machine parameter, there is a table somewhere. I used a centering indicator which worked well, it's nice that the dial does not rotate. For U-drills I think the coolant supply on the old Okumas is adequate (although more is always better). I have to look up what we have available but for drilling deep holes with solid carbide drills it's not nearly enough. The sales rep told me that a good way to check is if there is a plume or fountain exiting the hole, as soon as it breaks down it means the coolant can't evacuate the chips anymore and you need to stop immediately. What's pretty cool is the chip breaking of these drills.
It’s wonderful when the chips just break off perfectly. I’m fanatic about checking alignment now, mostly after getting a udrill stuck when we were out on the toolpost by about 0.22 Putting Udrills in our CNC has been great, but as it’s a quick change style we have to have solid procedures to make sure we don’t have sparks flying… again 🤣
On a cnc you can also force a chip by going out of a cut and back in in intervals. (manual g-code) maybe if your lathe can do that, vary your spindlespeed between for example: 300-600 rpm. (do the math and pick a range of about +- 24-30%
Hi Mat. I was wondering how you go for steel and parts deliveries at your location. Is it a logistic nightmare or do you have a reliable delivery system in place? Cheers.
We have pretty good systems in place, but limited options for 4140 steel. Especially hollow bar. Can’t easily source it in Australia, but everything else is easy enough thankfully. Great question by the way
Is your machine capable of spindle speed variation? I used to run a large Haas lathe and SSV was like a cheat code through all kinds of challenges. It may let you peck or dwell to brake the chip without chatter issues.
It’s an odd choice of coolant for sure. It’s called holemaker - just a standard drilling / cutting fluid they’ve been using here for years. Seems to do the job just fine.
@beriklelmut1842 the stuff you are using is called soluble oil. It is the old standby coolant that has been used for donkeys years. Modern industry especially with the higher speeds used nowadays for carbide tooling has had to rethink the whole coolant thing and it has turned into a science.
Definitely the way forward. The only reason I strayed away from it was the rep from Iscar suggested against it. From the comments so far I’m reverting back to pecking. 💯
We actually called him but it was too big for his big lathe. Hence why we had to buy The Hulk - our big green megabore. Kurtis has been super helpful all the way. Great guy and true pro.
Yep. It’s like a bad version of Cloverfield. You’re def not the only one who pointed it out. Worked really hard to make sure future videos are much more stable. I think we’ve got it nailed now, but let me know if you watch the latest one. Apologies for the vertigo my friend 🤣
Very nicely done sir! Keep up the great work! I cut quite a bit of 4140 (annealed and pre-hard). I have pretty good luck with 'peck' grooving. Running about the same feed and speed. Peck about .5 to 1 mm deep. Mind you, I run Mazaks, so I'm not sure about the G code for that. Hope that helps a little sir.
Can't offer any help i do nothing on the scale you are doing any more but I do watch another chanel CEE. HE IS IN GOLD COAST area does a lot of similar work on or in mining industry may like give him a look see or a call he seam like a fair sort of chap also Liking your work Cheers
Cheers buddy. Yeah, Kurtis is a great guy and definitely knows is stuff. CEE is def the gold standard of machining channels in my opinion. Thanks for tuning in brother 👊
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi from NZ. Ex automotive machinist and long time user of manual lathes. Love your clips. And the pink coolant is wonderful lol. Its eye opening to see you fellas working on the big gear. Always impressed with the depth of your cuts and size of the chips coming off. It's brilliant to see your shop dogs too. Definitely one of the reasons you guys and Kurtis, Karen and Homeless at CEE are some of my favorite TH-camrs
Thanks heaps mate, appreciate the kind words.🙏👊
Murray & Penny earning their kibble 💯👊🤣
Good boy dogs and heavy machining. I'm all in. I'm apprenticing with a tool and die maker. Videos like yours make me want to step out of my comfort zone and try new and bigger jobs!
Cheers mate! Yeah, the more you do the bigger stuff, the more you look forward to it.
Bigger the better in my humble opinion.
A shop dog and a great machining channel! hells yeah, I'm in. I only work on small little parts so its nice to see the other end of the spectrum in the machining world.
Dogs for the win 🤣🤣
Back in the 80s we had a shed pig named Elvis, and a random cockatoo that flew in one day.
Thanks for the kind feedback too mate! Much appreciated 🙏👊
Standard grooving chip for MGEH style insert but I find on internal grooves raising the tool above centre line makes it chip better on hard materials
Great stuff. Cheers mate. I might try just raising it a touch. I usually do that when machining manually anyway
You have an excellent video personality. Keep up the great videos !!!
Thanks very much for the kind feedback mate. Much appreciated.
Notice that the lathe speeds up as the piece is worked inward, keeping the linear cutting speed constant and increasing the efficiency of the operation.
Love CSS on most jobs. With bigger stuff running steadies I stick to constant rpm though.
Love your outright honesty Hal! Click abled ads, majes you the man, and people will watch them. Awesome content, cant wait to see the drill. Thanks. Go Aussie! 10/10
Cheers Phil. Yeah, my goal is to keep ads / promo to an absolute minimum. I detest non-clickable ads... its why I never watch ANY free to air TV haha.
Looking forward to the big rig in action too! It'll be a beast. Thanks for the great feedback mate. Appreciate it.
So glad i found this channel. Really looking forward to the next videos!
Cheers mate! Appreciate the feedback 👊
Hi from the expat Aussie in the UK, Great video.
Thanks mate! Appreciate the feedback
Re chip breaking with the internal groove my thoughts are increase feed rate to .2to .3mm/rev maybe even more.,and drop surface speed by 10-20%, apply raw soluble oil with no water added and if that fails assuming you have minimized overhang turn the bar upside down and run the spindle in reverse, however the thinner the material is getting out from the iD of the groove to the od of the part the vibration will work against you, another trick is to do the grooving and boring before reducing the OD so the work is more rigid, skinny sleeves squeal and the tool height fluctuates and does not relieve the material at a constant rate, just keep trying heavy feed rates and even go under 120m/min, the answer is in the fine tuning, previous comment about adjusting tool center height has a lot of merit, especially on 431 SS. Condition T 4140 responds well to wide variations in changing the approach angle of the insert by pivoting the tool post and changing the actual length of the cut as opposed to depth really well especially on tools like the CNMG when roughing out on the OD, I have also found tightening up anything loose on the machine and bringing in the tailstock close to the headstock and locking it down removes a few mysterious conditions, first job on a cold morning is another tip, hope it goes well for you, good video.
Dude that’s some solid practical advice. Thank you 🙏👊
Excellent video. Cheers from Canada...!
Thanks for the feedback mate. Appreciate it.
Hal was from Chilliwack originally. He hated the cold so bad he moved down under 🤣
Hey. I hear you asking about the internal groving. I do a lot of this in really tough or chewy? (not my default language) material (like soft aluminium or stainless steels) - and depending on my working place, im not able to stand by and watch the whole part running. Best way for me is to interrupt the cut after 1.25 spindel revolutions by withdrawing the tool. So when my feed per revolution is 0.1 i have have 0.125 of cutting dept before i withdraw the tool for 0.15mm or so. It sounds crazy, but works perfect and it isn't that slow as it sounds, when your cnc is able to withdraw the tool in G0.
Excellent advice. Thank you for sharing my friend!
My experience with those tools is that put off long curls, no chips! Especially with the high strength steel you are using. Good luck sir. Looking forward to seeing this machine being built and used. YAY!
Thanks for that. Glad I’m not the only one who has the stringy award dilema ✌️
I’m a CNC Machinist in the drilling Industry for NoDig Equipment Perth WA.
I use SECO grooving inserts (LCMF160402-0400-FT CP500) at 0.18mm/rev and 130m/min.
I use Korloy part-off inserts (Saw Man-X) at 0.16mm/rev and 160m/min.
If I have bad chip control for grooving or threading I increase the spindle speed. For turning and boring I increase the feed. Usually just on the dials. High pressure coolant will also help.
My colleagues use dwelling or pecking to break a chip when grooving. Although iv always managed without it.
Thanks man. I appreciate the comment. Super useful info that I’ll apply in some future runs.
We run some seco gear and it’s really good stuff. Might have to look into their grooving tools.
Using Iscar at the moment, just because it’s so easy to order to be totally honest.
Kennametal has dropped the ball big time in Australia…
Sometimes you just have to say " bugger, just peck it" just found your channel and I love it. I too have resorted to regrinding custom chip groves but I must admit I have NEVER done work the size you buggers are doing. Your tool rep will be happy to sell you all sorts of solutions, I am sure! G'day from Tasmania
Nailed it 💯
Pecking from here in on 4140…
Tassie is the bomb. My wife and I love it down there. So beautiful
Hay mate love the channel we do a fair bit of vig stuff with plenty of groves looks good from here all we do is a 4mm peck on the X leaving a .2 finish cut running along the Y axis.Cheers from Tasmania
Love it! Thanks for the tip brother. Really appreciate it.
Greetings from NSW. I use fanuc and fagor controls at work. I use a pecking grooving cycle for internal work. Usually 0.25 on radius pecks and return 0.05. Doesn't take too much longer and swarf is a better size.
Awesome to know. Thanks for that. I think I’ll reset the grooving programs for pecking.
Especially on deeper grooves. The long swarf drives me nuts.
Out of curiosity, do you prefer the Fanuc or Fagor controllers??
Good one Matt, I've always been happy if I can get the swarf to curl like that when parting off or cutting any groove. Cheers
Cheers mate!
Hi
Just discovered your channel.
It is great. Like the camera work and that you explain what you’re going to do. Great attitude and no ego 👍👍👍
NSW Australia
Thanks a bunch great. That’s really helpful feedback in all honesty.
I like to explain what’s going on, mostly because it’s stuff I wanted to know about when I started as a machinist.
Awesome content,
Cheers mate!
Sounds like you need a vertical boring machine . I run one that swings 1.4 metres they're such a versatile machine and way easier to set up then a horizontal lathe. Cheers.
Funny you should mention it…
Im looking into one right now. It seems like a bloody good option.
Do you have any recommendations for good, reliable, heavy duty machines?
I’ve got no experience with this type of machine.
@@halheavyduty yer a good old Webster and Bennett Ora bullard or schiess are fairly bullet proof machines . You probably don't need a twin turret, get one with a adjustable turret head so you can machine taper angles . And preferably one with screw cutting capabilities. Cnc versions are a shit ton of $$ so probably not worth it for 1 or 2 of jobs. If the budget and shed space allows it a machine with a 42 inch or 1 metre chuck would be a bonus. Hope you find one there really a great machine to have in any heavy machining shop.
Thanks for the suggestions. In the process of exploring and researching it all this week.
Very helpful. Appreciate the insights 👊
Mi Matt, I couldn’t help but noticing that when doing a facing job, as the cutter moved towards the centre of the workpiece, the angular velocity increased. Is this a CNC control feature or is it built into basic functions of the lathe? It’s just that I have been looking around for a new lathe and a couple mention automatic speed compensation. I guess it means that you choose a CPM rate and the machine does the rest. Cool!
The machine has CSS - constant surface speed.
So you just choose you VC (in this case I think it was 170) and the machine increases RPM as the cut decreases on the X axis to compensate automatically.
It makes for really good surface finish, and supposedly increases tool life - which makes sense.
For the grooving insert, try grinding a bigger chip breaker, sometime I do it and it works.
I’ll do that. Definitely want to get it to start chipping. Every machinists pet hate is long swarf 💯
Hi again. The guy below uses Seco and that is the company I worked for for 28 odd years. The grooving tools he is refering too are one of the best on the maket. However to get chip contol maybe put a pause in the program every few seconds and mechanically break the chip? Cheers Ian, New Zealand
Thanks a bunch Ian. Yeah, I’ve heard great things about Seco. Have used their turning inserts mostly and found them to be fantastic.
Internal grooving, "peck cycle" in your program, will help break chips. Usually there is a parameter for depth of cut per peck.
Definitely going to stick to pecking for 4140. Seems the common solution being recommended.
Here I thought you meant a 3 meter drill as in a metalworking tool to use on the large, but a 3 meter _diameter_ drill is a whole different animal!
It’s gonna be a weapon once it’s done… 💯
Suggestion, get in contact with Titan of Titans of CNC. Might be good resource.
That guy has some awesome gear. He definitely knows his stuff too.
Amazing channel
IF you need to break the 🍟🍟on the Internal Grooving Tool.
Just program a Chip Break.
And maybe increase the Feed Rate to at least 0.20mm per rev 👍
I’ll give that a crack.
Got 60 monster tool joints to make in the next 6 weeks that all need circlip grooves… so PLENTY of material to experiment 🤣
This drill is gonna be a monster, as well as a huge time/money/materials investment. Got to ask, what on earth needs holes as big and deep as that ? Enjoy watching the videos 👏👏👏
You’re not wrong there! It’ll be used for underground ventilation holes
@@halheavyduty Hmm atomic bunkers for the super-elites? Must be my conspiracy theory mind again, LOL.
@@halheavyduty ah, mining. Look forward to seeing this project progress ✌️
internal grooving sucks full stop. you can get some chips with super aggressive feeds but even then some times you just get thicker flat bar coming out. I would say look at different chip breakers on the insert so talk to you tooling supplier on that. With that said those chips look pretty good to me even if they are a bit of a string of death.
Good to know. And I pretty much agree. I’ve gone rather aggressive on other parts and I just get super thick strings of gnarly swarf!
Might just peck cycle it for deeper cuts in the future.
Thanks for the input 👊
I feel your pain of machining in the relative middle of nowhere. I'm in NZ only 3 other cnc shops in my area (one of which I collaborate with) and not having many people to bounce ideas off of.
The other fun is getting tooling when shops are nowhere nearby. I have a customer who keeps sending me parts with 20-30 diameter deepth holes in odd sizes like 3.1mm and wonders why it takes my supplier 3 weeks to to get me parabolic drills delivered from Germany so he can get his parts.
I'm in Holland and we ordered a carbide drill and pilot drill from Walter on Friday afternoon and got in Monday before lunch time. Drilled the holes today with the sales rep present and it was pretty impressive. Chip evacuation by high pressure coolant. Do your (deep hole) drilling on a suitable mill and not a lathe if available because on the mill there's no alignment issues.
So true. I wish we had a mill that could do it. I much prefer drilling on a mill.
So cool that you guys can get tooling that quick.
Yeah man, it’s challenging hey. One of the outcomes I’m hoping for the channel is to get ideas from all around the world on how we can do things better.
I’ve got no ego around “my way is the best way” so really open to good suggestions wherever they come from…
… and if they work really well I’ll be sharing it.
3.1mm hole. Fark. That’d do my head in 😂😂
@@halheavyduty Did alignment on the small Okuma just a few weeks ago. At least one of the 12 tool positions is now perfectly on center with the machine. I had to adjust the turret rotationally, it was off by about 0.2 mm which is pretty dramatic. I have yet to check for deviation between all turret positions (which I expect to be minimal). As I remember, X offset deviations can be corrected for by machine parameter, there is a table somewhere. I used a centering indicator which worked well, it's nice that the dial does not rotate. For U-drills I think the coolant supply on the old Okumas is adequate (although more is always better). I have to look up what we have available but for drilling deep holes with solid carbide drills it's not nearly enough. The sales rep told me that a good way to check is if there is a plume or fountain exiting the hole, as soon as it breaks down it means the coolant can't evacuate the chips anymore and you need to stop immediately. What's pretty cool is the chip breaking of these drills.
It’s wonderful when the chips just break off perfectly.
I’m fanatic about checking alignment now, mostly after getting a udrill stuck when we were out on the toolpost by about 0.22
Putting Udrills in our CNC has been great, but as it’s a quick change style we have to have solid procedures to make sure we don’t have sparks flying… again 🤣
On a cnc you can also force a chip by going out of a cut and back in in intervals. (manual g-code)
maybe if your lathe can do that, vary your spindlespeed between for example: 300-600 rpm. (do the math and pick a range of about +- 24-30%
also try to play with the depth of cut and insert height. Speed is fine imo
Good tip. We can peck in the program but it seems to reduce tip life. Going to play with it in the next few weeks.
Appreciate the suggestion brother
I do like heavy duty machining ! :D I am happy that I found your channel Sir ;D Love cnc machines esspecialy lathes ;)
Thanks for the great feedback brother. Glad you stumbled across the channel 👊💯
Hi Mat. I was wondering how you go for steel and parts deliveries at your location. Is it a logistic nightmare or do you have a reliable delivery system in place? Cheers.
We have pretty good systems in place, but limited options for 4140 steel.
Especially hollow bar.
Can’t easily source it in Australia, but everything else is easy enough thankfully.
Great question by the way
Thats some nice work. Always love making big chips
👊💯
Cool vid mate
Cheers Greg 👊
@@halheavyduty You've got me hooked
Looking forward to seeing more vids from you
That's a good size drill bro
Is your machine capable of spindle speed variation? I used to run a large Haas lathe and SSV was like a cheat code through all kinds of challenges. It may let you peck or dwell to brake the chip without chatter issues.
It has a Fanuc controller, but not sure if it has SSV. Will have to check. Great suggestion.
What kind of coolant are you using causing have never seen red coolant the one used in our apprentice workshop is like a milky color
It’s an odd choice of coolant for sure.
It’s called holemaker - just a standard drilling / cutting fluid they’ve been using here for years.
Seems to do the job just fine.
Alright thanks for the information mate
@beriklelmut1842 the stuff you are using is called soluble oil. It is the old standby coolant that has been used for donkeys years. Modern industry especially with the higher speeds used nowadays for carbide tooling has had to rethink the whole coolant thing and it has turned into a science.
@@glennbrown1961 we also use it for carbide tooling but yea we only go slow since our milling machines are from 1987
.5mm peck all the way to the bottom of the groove.
Definitely doing pecking cycles from now on for 4140.
Thanks mate
peck cycle?
Definitely the way forward. The only reason I strayed away from it was the rep from Iscar suggested against it.
From the comments so far I’m reverting back to pecking.
💯
Take your oversize work to Kurtis, mate.
We actually called him but it was too big for his big lathe. Hence why we had to buy The Hulk - our big green megabore.
Kurtis has been super helpful all the way. Great guy and true pro.
Too much camera movement - dizzying
Yep. It’s like a bad version of Cloverfield. You’re def not the only one who pointed it out.
Worked really hard to make sure future videos are much more stable. I think we’ve got it nailed now, but let me know if you watch the latest one.
Apologies for the vertigo my friend 🤣
Very nicely done sir! Keep up the great work! I cut quite a bit of 4140 (annealed and pre-hard). I have pretty good luck with 'peck' grooving. Running about the same feed and speed. Peck about .5 to 1 mm deep. Mind you, I run Mazaks, so I'm not sure about the G code for that. Hope that helps a little sir.
Very very helpful. It’s a solution I’m considering, so that’s good to know 💯
Can't offer any help i do nothing on the scale you are doing any more but I do watch another chanel CEE. HE IS IN GOLD COAST area does a lot of similar work on or in mining industry may like give him a look see or a call he seam like a fair sort of chap also
Liking your work Cheers
Cheers buddy. Yeah, Kurtis is a great guy and definitely knows is stuff. CEE is def the gold standard of machining channels in my opinion.
Thanks for tuning in brother 👊
@@halheavyduty Cheers and thanks for the reply
@@halheavyduty Well at least you got the mandatory dog.