I busted 2 of those china-pullers on my rebuild, which acutually are made for beltpulleys. Finaly I got a OEM BRP flywheel-puller, set me back another 1000 kr (100 Dollars) and even with that, I really had to lean into it before the flywheel cracked of. I guess they almost fuse themselves to the crank as those high-powered engines run their heatcykles in winterconditions. I agree with scraping that motor though. To much resources tho get it in relighable condition.
Do you have the part number for the puller you have? I'd love to give it a shot. I completely agree, financially it doesn't make as much sense as upgrading. Makes good content though and I love the sled :)
Looks like when it originally had its issue all they did was a "dealership re-build" and like you said, only did the top end (for obvious reasons). The bluing on the road is a dead give-away. The Dealer Tech probably said - "it's a sled, they are only going to run it for a few times not 100k miles, it's fine" and they sent it off on its way. You see that a lot with RV stuff sadly.
That is too bad. I'm not too surprised RVs are that way. The bottom end definitely got hot... I'm guessing from the fuel leakage from the rings. Thanks for helping analyze the issue!
Can't believe you couldn't get the flywheel off. If you are just using propane for heat, might need to try acetylene. That is what I used on mine. Just be careful not to heat it too much that too much heat goes into the stator and melts the wiring. Another trick that people have tried is heat, then candle wax. The heat will melt the wax and it will get pulled into any gaps, just like solder. If you have a decent puller you should be able to put lots of torque on it. Leave the nut loosely on the crank so if it pops it doesn't fly off and hit the floor. I find that alternating heat and taping gains enough to get another 1/8-1/4 turn on the puller, do that a few times and it pops off. Just make sure your bolts on the puller are all threaded in the same amount so the puller is square and not pulling at an angle. Worst you can do is bend or break the puller. Usually pretty hard to strip threads unless using power tools, or the bolts are not fully thread into the flywheel. If you think the flywheel is rusted on the crank try some penetrating oil before doing anything. Though usually heat will break a rust bond.
That's true. I could have used acetylene but was worried about getting it off. You're definitely right about the tools I was using being too weak. I recently purchased the right puller or the SPI puller that I'm going to try out to take it off. The harmonic balancer tool I was using started bending.... Thanks for all the tips. I plan on rebuilding the engine this summer to have a spare 800 on the shelf incase I ever need it. I have another snowmobile video coming up next weekend where I build a custom tail light, which is where I talk about rebuilding the engine at the end. Thanks for watching and thanks for all the advice!!!
Great vids you have put out. Would the correct BRP flywheel puller (externally threaded center boss type) have made better job taking the flywheel off? I would liked to have seen if that was the case
Sometimes those decisions are hard to make right? I had one years ago and it craped out on me. I don't remember now what the problem was, but I decided it was better just to get rid of it. Plus it seemed if I ever wanted to ride it I would need to trailer it hundreds of miles away.
Yea it’s a tough decision. I also have to drive hundreds of miles to ride it. Something more reliable is what I need if I’m not using it as much. Something four stroke lol.
Hey. I have a 04 skidoo mxz 500ss. Doing a top end build. Iv noticed the piston rods slight wiggle side to side but no play up and down. What's your opinion on that? Thank you.
I'm not an expert on this engine but I'd say side to side is ok but up and down is not. I have the service manual... Just looked at the 593 / SDI / 793 HO engines and the "Connecting Rod big end axial play" wear limit is listed as 1.2mm or 0.047"
I bought a used engine! Reinstallation coming this summer!
Mine was stuck so bad..i kept trying and it actually bent my crank so if it doesmt pop east i wouldn't even pop it
I busted 2 of those china-pullers on my rebuild, which acutually are made for beltpulleys. Finaly I got a OEM BRP flywheel-puller, set me back another 1000 kr (100 Dollars) and even with that, I really had to lean into it before the flywheel cracked of. I guess they almost fuse themselves to the crank as those high-powered engines run their heatcykles in winterconditions. I agree with scraping that motor though. To much resources tho get it in relighable condition.
Do you have the part number for the puller you have? I'd love to give it a shot. I completely agree, financially it doesn't make as much sense as upgrading. Makes good content though and I love the sled :)
Looks like when it originally had its issue all they did was a "dealership re-build" and like you said, only did the top end (for obvious reasons).
The bluing on the road is a dead give-away. The Dealer Tech probably said - "it's a sled, they are only going to run it for a few times not 100k miles, it's fine" and they sent it off on its way.
You see that a lot with RV stuff sadly.
That is too bad. I'm not too surprised RVs are that way. The bottom end definitely got hot... I'm guessing from the fuel leakage from the rings. Thanks for helping analyze the issue!
I've been there and sometimes you have to cut your losses. You're probably making the better call. Good luck on your new Sled purchase! :)
Thanks. I’m looking forward to a new sled!
Can't believe you couldn't get the flywheel off. If you are just using propane for heat, might need to try acetylene. That is what I used on mine. Just be careful not to heat it too much that too much heat goes into the stator and melts the wiring. Another trick that people have tried is heat, then candle wax. The heat will melt the wax and it will get pulled into any gaps, just like solder. If you have a decent puller you should be able to put lots of torque on it. Leave the nut loosely on the crank so if it pops it doesn't fly off and hit the floor. I find that alternating heat and taping gains enough to get another 1/8-1/4 turn on the puller, do that a few times and it pops off. Just make sure your bolts on the puller are all threaded in the same amount so the puller is square and not pulling at an angle. Worst you can do is bend or break the puller. Usually pretty hard to strip threads unless using power tools, or the bolts are not fully thread into the flywheel. If you think the flywheel is rusted on the crank try some penetrating oil before doing anything. Though usually heat will break a rust bond.
That's true. I could have used acetylene but was worried about getting it off. You're definitely right about the tools I was using being too weak. I recently purchased the right puller or the SPI puller that I'm going to try out to take it off. The harmonic balancer tool I was using started bending.... Thanks for all the tips. I plan on rebuilding the engine this summer to have a spare 800 on the shelf incase I ever need it. I have another snowmobile video coming up next weekend where I build a custom tail light, which is where I talk about rebuilding the engine at the end. Thanks for watching and thanks for all the advice!!!
Great vids you have put out. Would the correct BRP flywheel puller (externally threaded center boss type) have made better job taking the flywheel off? I would liked to have seen if that was the case
Thank you! I didn’t even know that flywheel puller from them was a thing. I’ll order one today and follow up.
Something different for sure!, I've never saw a snowmobile in person before, only on TV and video, they sure look fun though!👍
Lots of fun! Engines are very similar to dirt bikes / atvs. Crazy to see how much it would have cost to fix it.
Sometimes those decisions are hard to make right? I had one years ago and it craped out on me. I don't remember now what the problem was, but I decided it was better just to get rid of it. Plus it seemed if I ever wanted to ride it I would need to trailer it hundreds of miles away.
Yea it’s a tough decision. I also have to drive hundreds of miles to ride it. Something more reliable is what I need if I’m not using it as much. Something four stroke lol.
Awesome video brother. Thanks for sharing. Very interesting video. Keep the content coming. Hope you have an incredible day. Much love and RESPECT
Thanks Tim! Have a great day as well!
Tye mystery of 2 strokes
Tell me about it. I love the power to weight ratio of them but when they go they are gone!
Hey. I have a 04 skidoo mxz 500ss. Doing a top end build. Iv noticed the piston rods slight wiggle side to side but no play up and down. What's your opinion on that? Thank you.
I'm not an expert on this engine but I'd say side to side is ok but up and down is not. I have the service manual... Just looked at the 593 / SDI / 793 HO engines and the "Connecting Rod big end axial play" wear limit is listed as 1.2mm or 0.047"
Side to side is normal. up and down should be tight. You are good.
A air hammer will take it off fyi.
Won’t it damage it? I’ve been trying to reuse what I can. Need the crank rebuilt though