Looking good! I would clean the exhaust valves, it may have not have been done for a while. I clean the carbs and exhaust valves before every season. That crank bearing looked decent, last guy was greasing it. Those slides on that set of carbs are very worn, they will leak air. Good call on running the other set of carbs. I would suspect that engine has big miles on it and was rebuilt at some point. I like to put a bit of oil around the inside of the boots where the carbs attach to the rage cages, this area with the groove corrodes on the back of the carbs, same thing with the carb heater barbs, they tend to corrode. I like to run the front center DPM line behind the long bolt that holds the 2 carbs together, this makes it easier to get to the back clamp for the airbox. That engine sounds healthy to me.
Thanks man! Appreciate all the guidance and help. I'll pull the valves out to take a look. When I initially scoped them they didn't look too bad. I also clean the carbs out every season, but I'll add cleaning the valves to it as well. I ended up using dielectric grease on the boots where you suggested. I also ended up purchasing new o-rings for the large bolt under the fuel bowls. They were pretty well worn and felt dry rotted. Thanks for the tip on the DPM line as well. I'll move that line before I put it back in the trailer. I got everything back together this week and its ready to go.
I also did the same as you and tapped the backside of a clutch for the ring gear. I used red loctite and the bolts still came loose and the ring came off. I ended up tack welding the screw heads to the ring. Keep an eye out for that
Thanks. I’ll definitely watch out for that. That was one of my worries after I put it together. I’ll drop a wrench of that size in my toolkit for when I ride to remove if necessary… appreciate you letting me know!
If you feel that the sled has unusual vibration, since the replacement inner sheeve did not have a starter ring gear originally, you may want to have the primary balanced - adding the ring gear can cause a balance issue, creating vibration.
Thanks. That's a great idea. I wasn't thinking about that when I rebuilt it. I've kept the old one as well (even though it is damaged). I might try and get the center rod pushed out and push a new one in... I guess if I did that I would have to balance it too. Appreciate the thoughts!
I didn't. I checked them out before I put it back together. You are right that it is probably a good idea though. I'll watch it this year, but I'll probably swap them out this summer. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.
If you like this video, please do me a favor and hit the like button on the video. It helps a lot!
Looking good! I would clean the exhaust valves, it may have not have been done for a while. I clean the carbs and exhaust valves before every season. That crank bearing looked decent, last guy was greasing it. Those slides on that set of carbs are very worn, they will leak air. Good call on running the other set of carbs. I would suspect that engine has big miles on it and was rebuilt at some point. I like to put a bit of oil around the inside of the boots where the carbs attach to the rage cages, this area with the groove corrodes on the back of the carbs, same thing with the carb heater barbs, they tend to corrode. I like to run the front center DPM line behind the long bolt that holds the 2 carbs together, this makes it easier to get to the back clamp for the airbox. That engine sounds healthy to me.
Thanks man! Appreciate all the guidance and help. I'll pull the valves out to take a look. When I initially scoped them they didn't look too bad. I also clean the carbs out every season, but I'll add cleaning the valves to it as well. I ended up using dielectric grease on the boots where you suggested. I also ended up purchasing new o-rings for the large bolt under the fuel bowls. They were pretty well worn and felt dry rotted. Thanks for the tip on the DPM line as well. I'll move that line before I put it back in the trailer. I got everything back together this week and its ready to go.
@@SmackeysGarage No problem, glad you got everything working.
That feeling when it fires up the first time and everything just works. I love it!
It was a shocker lol! Thanks
Awesome video brother. Thanks for sharing. Keep the content coming. Hope you have an incredible weekend. Much love and RESPECT
Thanks for watching Tim! Have a great weekend!!!
I also did the same as you and tapped the backside of a clutch for the ring gear. I used red loctite and the bolts still came loose and the ring came off. I ended up tack welding the screw heads to the ring. Keep an eye out for that
Thanks. I’ll definitely watch out for that. That was one of my worries after I put it together. I’ll drop a wrench of that size in my toolkit for when I ride to remove if necessary… appreciate you letting me know!
Cool outfit! Looks like it will be lots of fun!👍
Thanks! Excited for snow!
If you feel that the sled has unusual vibration, since the replacement inner sheeve did not have a starter ring gear originally, you may want to have the primary balanced - adding the ring gear can cause a balance issue, creating vibration.
Thanks. That's a great idea. I wasn't thinking about that when I rebuilt it. I've kept the old one as well (even though it is damaged). I might try and get the center rod pushed out and push a new one in... I guess if I did that I would have to balance it too. Appreciate the thoughts!
Did you end up replacing fuel lines? Oil lines? Oil lines is good insurance, lot of guys blow up sleds simply because oil lines get brittle and crack.
I didn't. I checked them out before I put it back together. You are right that it is probably a good idea though. I'll watch it this year, but I'll probably swap them out this summer. Thanks for bringing that to my attention.