@tonygixxer Loctite Blue is for the bolts. The other stuff is to give you extra security that it doesn't leak if the seal fails. I didn't and mine is fine. That said, I service mine with fresh oil every year when I take it out of storrage. Do what you feel right doing though. I didn't use a torque wrench, just bottom out and add a tiny bit. Remember, the flanges are simple plastic, not meant to be heaved on.
@gazza2006au You need the impeller tool for your make/model. You will also need to do it in a vice as they are generally on pretty tight. Be sure to use Anti Seize when putting it all back together as it will make future servicing much easier.
If everything spins smoothly and quiet, you may be in good shape. Add fresh pump oil and for sure replace the seal. I also use a bit of gasket glue before plugging the cone back in. This way I'm sure there won't be fluid loss or leakage.
@tonygixxer Not sure where your comment went as I see it in my e-mail, however, there should be a bit more tension on the prop than before, but not a lot. If the prop tuned fine without it, and it seems stiffer with the cone, that is probably correct. There should me a teflon or nylon end that goes into the spring where it touches the shaft. That relieves wear/friction and is necessary.
hi and thanks for the informative vid. i plan on doing this tomorrow, but what determines "vintage?" my g/f has a 2002 GTX, will this procedure work for hers? looking forward to "the smell" also hahah, thanks again.
Could be a few reasons. Always start with spark and fuel first. Change plugs, use fresh fuel. Might have dirty filters in carb or external water separator need a flushing. That's where I would start. And be sure the plug wires are seated firmly on the boot. A small gap can cause problems firing.
Hi levonhelmet, I didn't as everything was square and very tight, however there was some on there as it was tough to pull off. I have since checked the level on mine and it's still fine. Liquid gasket would be a good idea. Thanks for the post .)
and also, the service manual said to put some loctite 518 on the mating surface, should i do that? i was told silicone or gasket eliminator would work too. i got some gasket eliminator stuff to do it.
Yes, until it's flush. I use some Teflon tape on mine to be sure nothing leaks. But after you fill, bounce the ski on the trailer a bit to bring out air bubble, then top it off.
@JungleListSoldier It's an older '94 model with candy green PPG paint. Doing the top end this year as it's used mostly for slalom over waves. ('96 800cc is best) Thanks for posting : )
@gazza2006au Watch for those little 'O' rings. They are necessary and easily lost if not careful when the pump comes off. The anti-rattle cone was a good deal as well and I had put one on later. Much quieter. Best of luck :)
yes, it is the anti rattle cone. so tighten them just enough to touch and hold it in place? and use blue loctite 242. the service manual says 4 N•m (35 lbf•in). but i cannot get a torque measurement bc my torque wrench in 3/8 and my 8mm 3/8 drive socket doesnt fit in there. so once i tighten them just enough to hold it, should force i need to move the prop by hand change a little bit, not at all, or a lot? thanks
@tonygixxer Hi Tony, in fact, you may have the anti-rattle cone and I bought two this year. Oil that rubber seal well, then push it straight on, and it takes pressure. Start all the bolts and keep holding the cone on untill the bolts bottom out. Don't go crazy sinking the bolts as it doesn't need much pressure to keep in place. The seal is the most important part of that installation. If you tighten the bolts too much, it will mushroom the flanges. Just bottom it out. Hope that helps :)
I just changed the jet pump oil in my 93 XP and when I took off the cone the old oil had some water in it. Obviously there was a small leak somewhere. The jet pump did not make any noise of anything. Should I be concerned?
Like levonhelmet stated below, you may want to add some liquid gasket before reinstalling as a precaution to leakage. Wish I had known this before making the video, however my ski is still fine without it, but will do it on the next change. Just to be safe .)
Also keep in mind not to use any kind RV sealant in the cone. The O-ring is plenty enough to seal the oil in. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know whatt hey talking about. BTW what kind of SeaDoo is that?
i took tha cone off i dry all tha water , and i put everything back and fill with oil , and i start for a little bit off the water , and looks good , but idk how tha water get in there,,,
Lets Get Gnar whew we can all sleep at night now .......little z quil .....i take offense to everyone .....by the way get to walmart or wendys ur manager needs help ya low life
I maintain my '98 XPL the same as I maintain my USA Carrera. I hope who ever owns that Sea-Doo doesn't own a Porsche. The bearings in that pump are probably cooked.
Cool!! I just bought a sea doo XP. This is the first thing im going to do. That shit was shot that came out of the impeller. It certainly needed it!!
It's what an expert sea-doo mechanic told me to use, and it has worked just fine.
@tonygixxer Loctite Blue is for the bolts. The other stuff is to give you extra security that it doesn't leak if the seal fails. I didn't and mine is fine. That said, I service mine with fresh oil every year when I take it out of storrage. Do what you feel right doing though. I didn't use a torque wrench, just bottom out and add a tiny bit. Remember, the flanges are simple plastic, not meant to be heaved on.
well done im about to tackle this job your step by step video will help me cheers
@gazza2006au You need the impeller tool for your make/model. You will also need to do it in a vice as they are generally on pretty tight. Be sure to use Anti Seize when putting it all back together as it will make future servicing much easier.
Good point. I didn't use any as the threads were tight and set in deep. Thanks for the post ,)
If everything spins smoothly and quiet, you may be in good shape. Add fresh pump oil and for sure replace the seal. I also use a bit of gasket glue before plugging the cone back in. This way I'm sure there won't be fluid loss or leakage.
@tonygixxer Not sure where your comment went as I see it in my e-mail, however, there should be a bit more tension on the prop than before, but not a lot. If the prop tuned fine without it, and it seems stiffer with the cone, that is probably correct. There should me a teflon or nylon end that goes into the spring where it touches the shaft. That relieves wear/friction and is necessary.
Yes. I may have a clip up this spring when I do an exchange (remove & replace).
Thanks for the post .)
hi and thanks for the informative vid. i plan on doing this tomorrow, but what determines "vintage?" my g/f has a 2002 GTX, will this procedure work for hers? looking forward to "the smell" also hahah, thanks again.
Could be a few reasons. Always start with spark and fuel first. Change plugs, use fresh fuel. Might have dirty filters in carb or external water separator need a flushing. That's where I would start. And be sure the plug wires are seated firmly on the boot. A small gap can cause problems firing.
Hi levonhelmet, I didn't as everything was square and very tight, however there was some on there as it was tough to pull off. I have since checked the level on mine and it's still fine.
Liquid gasket would be a good idea. Thanks for the post .)
and also, the service manual said to put some loctite 518 on the mating surface, should i do that? i was told silicone or gasket eliminator would work too. i got some gasket eliminator stuff to do it.
Yes, until it's flush. I use some Teflon tape on mine to be sure nothing leaks. But after you fill, bounce the ski on the trailer a bit to bring out air bubble, then top it off.
@JungleListSoldier It's an older '94 model with candy green PPG paint. Doing the top end this year as it's used mostly for slalom over waves. ('96 800cc is best) Thanks for posting : )
@gazza2006au Watch for those little 'O' rings. They are necessary and easily lost if not careful when the pump comes off. The anti-rattle cone was a good deal as well and I had put one on later. Much quieter. Best of luck :)
Nice video but what years does this apply to, all of em? I’ve got a 99 gtx limited, is it the same as this? Thanks man!
yes, it is the anti rattle cone. so tighten them just enough to touch and hold it in place? and use blue loctite 242. the service manual says 4 N•m (35 lbf•in). but i cannot get a torque measurement bc my torque wrench in 3/8 and my 8mm 3/8 drive socket doesnt fit in there.
so once i tighten them just enough to hold it, should force i need to move the prop by hand change a little bit, not at all, or a lot?
thanks
I chose to use what was at hand at that time. Doesn't take long and I kind of enjoyed it .)
@tonygixxer Hi Tony, in fact, you may have the anti-rattle cone and I bought two this year. Oil that rubber seal well, then push it straight on, and it takes pressure. Start all the bolts and keep holding the cone on untill the bolts bottom out. Don't go crazy sinking the bolts as it doesn't need much pressure to keep in place. The seal is the most important part of that installation. If you tighten the bolts too much, it will mushroom the flanges. Just bottom it out. Hope that helps :)
Do you happen to know if this is the same procedure for a 99 gtx with the 951 and also do you know the torque specs for that cap? Thanks
I just changed the jet pump oil in my 93 XP and when I took off the cone the old oil had some water in it. Obviously there was a small leak somewhere. The jet pump did not make any noise of anything. Should I be concerned?
good video do you have one on how to remove the pump????
so,when you put the cone (oil pump cover) back on....you dont need to use any gasket maker? or sealant of any kind?
Also how far should I screw in the screw for the fill hole? Just until it's flush with the cone surface? Thanx
Like levonhelmet stated below, you may want to add some liquid gasket before reinstalling as a precaution to leakage.
Wish I had known this before making the video, however my ski is still fine without it, but will do it on the next change. Just to be safe .)
Also keep in mind not to use any kind RV sealant in the cone. The O-ring is plenty enough to seal the oil in. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know whatt hey talking about.
BTW what kind of SeaDoo is that?
so how much oil do you have to put in? do you just fill it till you cant put anymore in?
i was gonna change my oil and i took off the cap and was water inside .and the rubber seal was good , any ideia what could be ??/
Good video, but I think I would use a couple of rags instead of paper to wipe off parts.
hello where did u put oil in was it a hole in the cone ??????
I'm familiar with the cone. Just never bothered with it. Have you done it? .)
thanks mate :o) do u do a video on impeller removal? lol
i took tha cone off i dry all tha water , and i put everything back and fill with oil , and i start for a little bit off the water , and looks good , but idk how tha water get in there,,,
Instead of scraping off the gasket with a putty spreader why not use a light abrasive disk on a hand held dye grinder ?
alrighty, thank you very much
What's the name of the oil you put in it?
Just going by memory (so double check) think it was SAE 75w/90 gear oil. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Fill it up, wait a few seconds for air bubbles to surface, fill again, wait, fill until no more air comes out then your done .)
You forgot to show an important step to....
Install and seal the plug with a pipe sealant. Otherwise-good job!
Hmm...not really. If you listen again I am saying Propane. The fluid has the same odor as the gas. Sort of garlic like in a way.
@TheNoisePolluter *propane
He said it smells like cocaine 💀
LoL LoL, SO TRUE!!!!!!
smels like caine yah baby we got a partier here yah eh
he said smells like propane
Lets Get Gnar whew im glad a complete toolbag is just trolling around to correct people thats my job buddy .....it was a joke tool
Shut the fuck up head troll I was just stating the obvoius cause mulitple poeople thought he said cocaine your the fucking tool for taking offense
Lets Get Gnar whew we can all sleep at night now .......little z quil .....i take offense to everyone .....by the way get to walmart or wendys ur manager needs help ya low life
2002 not vintage. now as for my '84 kawasaki JS550 thats real vintage along with the '87 kawi JS 300sx
head troll im actually a full time student at uncw my rich parents pay for evrruthing thanks and yes he filled the cone throughbthe allen wrench hole
it stinks the high hells
I maintain my '98 XPL the same as I maintain my USA Carrera. I hope who ever owns that Sea-Doo doesn't own a Porsche. The bearings in that pump are probably cooked.
Why do you use 75w140 vs 75w90 I thought we are supposed to use. Is it better?