@@MototalkUSA the way to think about that is, everything leading up to 10,750 is increasing, everything after is decreasing. So the further past you go the less your making.
You're very welcome man! It can be reset, there's 2 pins that you jump out on the diagnostic port ( under seat) however tho, there's something going on probably, that's why it's on. You're in luck because next week I'm posting a video how to sync the throttle Bodies and reset the FI light with a diagnosis tool, so stay tuned! 😉😉
Thanks man! And yes, it definitely loses power at high rpm. Some say to shift while at peak torque, others say to shift at peak HP but if you shift at peak HP let's say, when you go to the next gear and the rpm's drop, it's not in that peak range anymore, where as if shift past your peak power, and the rpm drops, it'll be closer in that power range. But it's all relevant, gear ratios curve bands etc. I'm not a pro racer but it seems to me I'm accelerating the most until right before the rev limiter, or at least it seems that way because the engine is screaming! 🤣🤣🤣
Ναι, φαίνεται πως βγαίνουν. Αν κοιτάξεις στο στροφόμετρο και στο κοντέρ, στην κάτω και πάνω μεριά τους έχει "clips" Αλλά ίσως χρειαστεί να το βγάλεις όλο το κοντέρ από την μηχανή και να το ανοίξεις στα δύο για να βγουν αυτά κλιπσακια.
Fair enough - but there is absolutely no reason to take a shift light to 11,500 rpm (above red line) which also means that the peak torque and peak horsepower has being exceeded - best to keep shifting 500rpm before red line (which is the peak HP and just passed peak torque...
Fail to see why anyone with a brain would need this feature. Surely any decent rider will hear the engine noise and know it is time to change up? Nonetheless, thanks for the tutorial...
You're very welcome for the tutorial man! I definitely don't have a brain, that's why I need this 😅😅 All jokes aside, it is helpful because if you shift too soon or too late it could cost a race. Most drag racers if not all use a shift light. It's hard to keep track of all the surroundings and also look at the RPM to shift in that sweet spot ☺️
Thanks, I did the same and now my Hayabusa is really a Hayabusa.🏍️👍
You're welcome man! Glad it worked out, enjoy 😉
Thanks champion . Cheers from Australia !
Hey Australia! You're most welcome my friend 🙌
I've seen other tutorials but for 08/09 Busa which wasn't working for my 2020. Thanks for the instruction video
You're most welcome bro! My pleasure 🙌
I hope this works for you you now.
Thanks for the tutorial 100% good
You're very welcome my friend! Happy you found you liked it🙌
I'm on it, appreciate it🏁🏁🏁
Awesome brotha!🤘
@@MototalkUSAHow tick it s the handlebar riser?
@@cristiantamasila8667 it's one inch thick.
Top😊
😉🙌
Wow this vedio so related wow 👏 😳 😍..wow
Thanks brotha! 💪
@@MototalkUSA 😀😀😀😀😀
Change that to 10,750 and you’ll be set. It’s peak for both Tq and HP.
I could try it, thanks man. The only thing is when I shift It'll drop under that 10,750 and I'm not at the peak anymore.
@@MototalkUSA the way to think about that is, everything leading up to 10,750 is increasing, everything after is decreasing. So the further past you go the less your making.
@@Nitrous_Busa alright alright...that's a good way to put it 💪
Thanks for video I have question my FI light is staying on. Can it be reset .
You're very welcome man! It can be reset, there's 2 pins that you jump out on the diagnostic port ( under seat) however tho, there's something going on probably, that's why it's on. You're in luck because next week I'm posting a video how to sync the throttle Bodies and reset the FI light with a diagnosis tool, so stay tuned! 😉😉
@@MototalkUSA yeah bro thanks I took the took the tank up and saw something unplugged it good now
@@jaybavis5896 good find! 🙌🙌
Great video but it quits pulling hard before 11K and starts losing power. Check out dyno videos. But great video.
Thanks man!
And yes, it definitely loses power at high rpm. Some say to shift while at peak torque, others say to shift at peak HP but if you shift at peak HP let's say, when you go to the next gear and the rpm's drop, it's not in that peak range anymore, where as if shift past your peak power, and the rpm drops, it'll be closer in that power range.
But it's all relevant, gear ratios curve bands etc.
I'm not a pro racer but it seems to me I'm accelerating the most until right before the rev limiter, or at least it seems that way because the engine is screaming! 🤣🤣🤣
Mr Bushalanga, 😂
That's right 🤣🤣
Τα ασημί "δαχτυλίδια" γύρω από τα όργανα βγαίνουν?
Ναι, φαίνεται πως βγαίνουν. Αν κοιτάξεις στο στροφόμετρο και στο κοντέρ, στην κάτω και πάνω μεριά τους έχει "clips"
Αλλά ίσως χρειαστεί να το βγάλεις όλο το κοντέρ από την μηχανή και να το ανοίξεις στα δύο για να βγουν αυτά κλιπσακια.
Fair enough - but there is absolutely no reason to take a shift light to 11,500 rpm (above red line) which also means that the peak torque and peak horsepower has being exceeded - best to keep shifting 500rpm before red line (which is the peak HP and just passed peak torque...
Yup, you're absolutely right, but I like to hear it scream 😅
I've been meaning to lower it a bit though.
So the bushilanga works huh?
Yes it does 😂
Fail to see why anyone with a brain would need this feature. Surely any decent rider will hear the engine noise and know it is time to change up? Nonetheless, thanks for the tutorial...
You're very welcome for the tutorial man! I definitely don't have a brain, that's why I need this 😅😅
All jokes aside, it is helpful because if you shift too soon or too late it could cost a race. Most drag racers if not all use a shift light. It's hard to keep track of all the surroundings and also look at the RPM to shift in that sweet spot ☺️