I bought mine as soon as it hit the stores. Been wanting a cordless trim router for years. YAY!!! NO CORD!!! I use mine all the time. I keep a 1/4" roundover bit in it. It's not my Triton, but it's not supposed to be. Good review.
Yeah, I think that 1/8" roundover bit is just gonna stay parked in mine for the time being. If I can find an edge guide for the router, it might get quite a bit of use for 1/4" dados as well.
I brought this for my woodwork and tried it, was my first time using a router. Very happy with my purchase. Also thank you for the video. Don't have to watch others after this.
I had already bought one of these before I saw your review. My first router of any kind. I really enjoyed your review and learned quite a bit. Subscribed and thanks.
I got one today, I think is solid, well built and looks nice. Having a couple of batteries fully charged when working is the best thing to do just in case, battery powered you have to think ahead when working on any project. DIYers will be happy to have one...!!!
I live in England, and when I bought my Ryobi router, it came with a straight bit, edge guide, in fact everything to start routing out of the box; only downside- no case or bag.
From Czech Republic, same here. But the 15 bit bit pack isn't available in Europe. And the 6 bit pack you can get here has a very narrow little straight bit. Which highlights that this is just a trim router.
@@andrewheathcote2850 I found a set of Bosch 6mm which is ideal for grooving. However I think for what I will be using it for the default Ryobi 6 bit set will be fine. And I'll get a fully fledged 1/2 inch router later.
They make a lot of cool cordless tools. With this thing you won't have issues with the cord snagging. The Ryobi sander I have is awesome for that reason too.
No more cord snagging is the EXACT reason I went with this, plus I have the 18V batteries already. My larger, corded router is now permanently residing upside down and mounted in the router table. No more need to take it in an out of the table brackets.
January 2023, Home Depot was closing out this model for $35 so I took a chance and bought it after watching several reviews. Seems solid, haven't used it yet.
this Green line has issued many unique tools that others havent yet. I purchased the first , a zip saw. then followed by the belt sander, and polisher. this is on my radar, also the Drain Auger. Ryobi is moving in the right direction. I hope they continue. I still have a Ridgid set.
I bought the old blue 18 V trim router after using a corded HF trim router and realizing there was a need for a small router. The plastic base is a concern, but if it breaks, I will just get one of the new models. While not perfect, it works well enough for my needs.
It's good that you mentioned the highlights, including the "brushed vs. brushless" motor difference, when comparing this model to Ridgid's cordless trim router. In addition to that detail, I would add a couple other key differences that someone may care about, when trying to choose between the Ryobi and Ridgid: First, Ridgid offers their Lifetime Service Agreement with their router (the R86044B). I have used LSA with decent success for one of my tools in the past, as well as several batteries that were at end of life. I really like having that bit of peace-of-mind, especially when you KNOW that at some point, batteries ARE going to wear out and pass away. And the darn things aren't cheap! Second, as you mentioned, the R86044B has an MSRP of $119. That's not bad IMHO, but just as a second data point, I have also seen on the HD website that they offer(ed?) a combo kit, model R86044SB, that also includes a charger and 2.0AH battery for only $10 more. That's quite a steal in my book. Unfortunately it has gone out of stock online and has been that way for a week -- maybe TOO good of a deal? I can't say for sure. Anyway, great review! I own the Ridgid R86044B, and dig it... but the Ryobi sure also looks like a good option for somebody who doesn't need the variable speed, wants to save $40-50 vs. the Ridgid, or is already invested in the Ryobi battery tool ecosystem. For what it's worth, both Ryobi and Ridgid are brands owned by TTI. It's pretty , and it's pretty clear that they share quite a few parts and/or design features (I'm looking at YOU, depth adjustment mechanism and edge guide holes!).
Seems I misspoke slightly regarding TTI's ownership. Ridgid is actually owned by Emerson Electric. However TTI's subsidiary, One World Technologies, manufactures cordless power tools for them. And when you look at these two routers, certain design features are SO similar, well... you can probably do the math :-)
Good points! One note about the Ridgid LSA - I'm pretty sure they only honor it for batteries that were purchased in a kit with a tool, not as stand alone spares. Also, make sure you register the tool within 90 days of purchase, or they won't honor the LSA even if you have a receipt! (I found this out the hard way, with my R4512 table saw, no less)
That's correct, not all batteries get the LSA warranty, just those sold with a tool. The warranty is 3 years for "sold separately" packs, if I recall rightly. Which warranty is applicable, is shown on the packaging of all Ridgid cordless tools and accessories. And, absolutely you are correct again: Proper LSA registration within 90 says is crucial. AND, it's only prudent that once the process is done (it can take a few days), that you verify on their website that the LSAs are valid and in force. Every serialized tool/battery must be registered separately, too. Having said all that, the LSA does work as stated, if you comply with their registration rules. It is unfortunate that people do overlook this detail sometimes, but Ridgid doesn't make a secret of the rules. It also helps if you have a (good) authorized service depot within a reasonable distance from your location. Mine is about 25 miles away, in a place I sometimes travel to anyway. But many people aren't so lucky, so that's kind of a downside. I've heard they have started doing drop-shipments on certain batteries and chargers now, meaning you don't need to do shipping or travel to a depot in person... but I have not used this service myself, so I can't attest to that personally.
Also, now that you mention it, that's a good reason to choose the R86044SB kit if you can get it, over just the R86044B bare tool. Because not only do you get a battery and charger for $10 more, both should be covered by the LSA. Buying a charger and battery separately, neither would get the LSA (unless they're bundled and it says "LSA" on the box). Buying a battery alone would likely NOT get the LSA. Again -- it's all in what the packaging states. Food for thought! I have now officially thread-jacked this RYOBI review more than enough, and shall commence shutting up :-)
My first Ryobi was a 12v screw driver for stuff around the house because I couldn't afford anything else. Then I was a bit disappointed with the life of the battery pack, however, the screwdriver worked fine. I then purchased a Ryobi Pole Saw and loved the convenience and noise level of battery operated saw. Being satisfied with Pole Saw I needed a finish nailer for molding work and purchased the Ryobi +1 16 gauge finish nailer. I LOVE IT and don't regret it for a minute. I have air nailers but convenience of the Ryobi +1 finish nailer is AWESOME. With regards to saying the same company makes such and such tool...I don't buy into that at all..the quality is different. While a company may own a brand that does not mean they change the manufacturing of it so much that they take away from what made the name (typically). I learned this from people I know in manufacturing...a company may own a brand, produce a product and ship it out but like I was informed think of it as a tier system.- Tier D/C may be the everyday common user, B may be the contractor grade, A may be high end .
I actual like that ergo plastic coating especially when I am edge routing I hold it with My elbow at a 45° angle to the cut and above the router to keep downward pressure while moveing forward
@12:29 Unfortunately the only complaint you have is the only thing the router should do....hold its depth and make it easy to adjust. I was considering this, but Ill think I will move towards the Bosch Colt trim router and deal with the cord. Thanks for the informative and honest review
I have the older model of this router. Couple of tips. During your test you ran in both directions! You should never do that! also, you did not plane your boards first, so ANY comments made about cutting depth variations are to be completely ignored. Further, you were concerned about the adjustment dial shaking, why? If you have ever used a hand plane, you know to always adjust in only one direction, period; so there is no issue there with this router. For my use, I ALSO use it for 1/8" roundover work, exclusively. When you think about how much time it takes to adjust a roundover bit properly, I plan to leave mine with that bit in it. They are economical enough to buy a few of them, and keep the bits in them, adjusted!
tkarlmann You have a good point about climb cutting being dangerous, but that's NOT what I did in the video. Look more closely, and you'll notice I only cut right to left for the first pass. Feed direction doesn't matter when the bit is cutting a dado on the first pass, since it's cutting on both sides. All subsequent ones were left to right. As for the depth variability, I did mention it was most likely due to cup in the board.
I also had the p600 which did have a plastic base which he commented on as being unsafe. My p600 lasted for 7 years without incidence. when it finally died I bought another one that lasted for 5 years and died earlier this year. I do car stereo systems and love the flush cutter bit.
climb cutting is generally bad policy, but with a small router like this and the sense to keep both hands on the tool, it's a bigger threat to the work than it is the user.
Man, I'm getting one of these to do the light routing in electric guitar bodies (not the outside of the body, the light work inside the body). It'll need a bigger base (Which is easy enough to make), but the makita trim router I'm using to do that right now also has a small base.
The only difference between yours and the one I have, there is no backlash like you have with the height adjusting thumb wheel. Other than that, it works fine for what I use it for.
I returned this router after owning it for one day. Ended up picking up the ridgid model on clearance for $60. I can't stand the lack of speed control on a palm router. Also compared to the Ridgid, the collet lock is very difficult to hold in. I agree with you that the bump out makes it very difficult to get a good grip on. I can't recommend this router to anyone that cuts through hardwoods, due to the lack of speed control. The edge guide on the Ridgid fits the Ryobi just a FYI
Lack of speed control almost made me decide against this one. However, the price difference was big enough to sway my decision. If Ridgid released a no-accessories version of theirs with no edge guide and no flush trim bit included, they could knock the price down by at least $20 and be more competitive. I also wish they'd sell that edge guide separately - the only place I can find it is on tool part replacement websites. But seriously - I would have jumped at $60 for the Ridgid. How was it even on clearance? It's only been out for 6 months or so.
Seems like after christmas every year they will clearance out a couple of tools. Last year I picked up the Ridgid random orbit sander for $20. Whenever I go to Home Depot I always check the clearance rack. they also had two shelves full of the two pack of Ryobi 4.0 batteries for $59. Pretty much a no brainer at that price.
Suppose to go one way left to right the bit turns counter clock wise. Plus there's actually two knobs to fine adjust depth. The white knob and the black knob above it. They move independently. It's a great tool if used properly.
Yes, in general it's good to avoid climb cutting unless necessary due to the grain. But the only pass I went right to left on was the first one with the bit cutting on both sides so it didn't matter.
Home depot has a fantastic sale for this, plus two of the 3ah batteries with single bay charger for $120. Those batteries alone are worth that with the charger easily
Hi I bought one of these in the UK mainly because the loose label attached to the router and the box both showed the device to be variable speed. I have since found out that it is not. The Ryobi rep in the store phoned head office and told me it was a bad error on their part. In the uk we also get an edge guide.The backlash on mine is only in the adjustment knob not in the thread. Hope this helps
That's a big oversight in the labelling! Glad ya'll get an edge guide, would have been a nice bonus if it came with one over here. I don't think the bit depth changes on mine with the vibration either, it just feels low quality to see that much looseness. Plus, it makes fine adjustment more difficult and less precise with that much backlash.
Could grind the sides of the wrench head maybe if you want the wrench to work. I believe the wrench is more for changing blades but maybe they could've put a little socket end. Shouldn't have to adjust that a lot anyway
I am interested in that router, but the lack of tightness in the depth adjustment makes me a little nervous. Knowing what you know now, would you buy it again?
Yeah, I would buy it again - the price difference is significant vs the Ridgid version, and I own an equal amount of both brands' batteries. The closeup of the fine adjustment knob rattling back and forth wasn't actually moving the router bit up and down, it was just looseness between the adjustment wheel and the screw. And after looking into it some more, I'm fairly certain the 0.040" depth discrepancy I mentioned was due to the base plate referencing off of the cup in the 2x4. If they were $20-30 different, I would have gone for the Ridgid, but the $50 gap made up my mind.
I have this for my quick jobs with not to much detail. The movement of the knob is not a big deal and does not really affect the depth cut but i solve this with either a thick wide rubber band or a piece of tape over the knob. Try it .
My only complaint with this router is the grip mold. There's not much room between your hand and the base because of it. Otherwise, the until is solid and worth the money.
I agree. Luckily that's only an issue when the router is at its extreme lower position in the base, and I don't use the tool as much in that configuration.
Help me! When I do circle with my jig, I adjust deep "10mm". But when machine is going the adjust spinn and going deeper. How to prevent this? Vibration make is spinn and adjust deeper
I agree with your assessment. I don't think it's a stellar 5 star router. I bought one without any prior experience in routing only to find out about the 1/4 inch limitations. So I'll keep it around for round overs, and grooving for T tracks or when making jigs or drawers. But it's not the kind of router you're going to table mount and do any sort of jointing with, or plunging or deep grooving. It's like a "mini router".
I have this router. The manual says, "NOTE: To set the cutting depth to zero, hold the router in place and turn the micro depth adjustment knob until it reads '0'." Can you explain what that means? Thx.
Set your bit on the workpiece and zero the micro depth adjustment knob, then lock down the router height. Afterwards, any height adjustments you make will be that distance from the height of the workpiece surface.
Not very accurate saying you used half a battery by looking at the lights, did it just go on to two lights or was it on two lights for a while? And why say Ryobi measured in feet then you go on about cubic inches, surely by using a 2.4m length of wood you just add each pass together then convert it to feet?
I continued running on two lights for a little while. I converted to cubic inches because I used a straight bit instead of a roundover. The torque distribution on the bit profile will be a big factor in run time, so I figured cubic inches was a better unit of measure than just guessing it would get the same linear distance.
Runtime tests on this are less meaningful than they would seem. It's highly dependent on the hardness of the material, the depth of cut, and the type of cut...not to mention the size of the battery. As long as it doesn't die in 5-10 minutes with a 5Ah battery then it's mostly a non-issue. Most users aren't going to use a cordless trim router continuously all day and continuously kill the battery. I would be more concerned about overheating the motor under heavy use than with the runtime of the battery. I could always pop on a bigger battery or have an extra battery if I needed longer runtime. What I wouldn't want is to overheat the motor (or fry it completely).
The tension adjustment that the wrench is too big to turn, looks like maybe you can turn the latch while you hold the nut with the wrench, like on a bicycle seat post.
Hi, thanks for the helpful tips. I just got mine, and this is my first time with a router. while using it, it is giving me a kickback and running away. I am trying to use it to carve out a name. How can I improve and what should I do so I got get a kickback? Thanks :)
The best way to avoid kickback is to cut while advancing the bit into the workpiece against its rotation. Traveling with the rotation is called climb cutting, which you want to avoid. When plunge cutting into wood so that both sides of the bit are cutting, a reference guide can keep you on track. If it's a straight line, you can just clamp a straight board parallel to the line you want to cut with the router. If it's something more complex like lettering, you may want to look into using guide bushings. Here's a good article with photo references too: www.wwgoa.com/article/router-basics-how-to-use-a-router/
Thanks much, the article talks about plunge routers. The one I have is a simple handheld ryobi router, the one you demonstrated in your video. I will try with your advice, hopefully that will work. Thanks much, again :)
You're right, climb cutting is bad practice. However, if you look closer the one time I went right to left I was making a plunge cut with both sides of the bit cutting, so it didn't matter.
You were a bit harsh. It is one of the cheapest cordless routes and it keeps up to all of the high priced router such as dewalt and aeg. Otherwise I liked your review and will subscribe
Thanks! This router is very capable, but after using other cordless routers, there's a definite difference in quality - most notably noise and vibration levels.
I'm pretty sure the Ryobi edge guide is for full size routers only. The Ridgid guide for their palm router does fit this Ryobi though (TTI is the parent company for both brands).
I haven't tried it with such a large bit, but I doubt it would work well for that purpose. I personally wouldn't use it for wide dadoes, since I've got a full size 2.25 HP router as well as a dado stack for the table saw. Plus, the user manual warns against it: "Do not use straight bits larger than 1/4 in. or edging bits which cut a pattern larger than 3/8 in. with this router. Use of larger bits can result in loss of control and serious personal injury."
Depends on your cut depth. Listen to the sound of the router -- it will tell you if you have overloaded it. Be VERY careful with plywood! The glue they use will ding up HSS planer blades easily. Be careful!
I haven't tried any Ryobi bits myself. For ones that you know you'll use a lot, I think the Freud Diablo bits are a pretty good value for their performance. If you're not sure which ones you'll use frequently, you can always buy a cheaper set and then replace the ones you use the most with a more expensive bit.
You really think the two little lights on the front of the battery are enough to assert you used 50% of the battery pack and not say 38% or 60%? What horrible time testing.
It gives you a ballpark estimate. Wood species, bit profile, and how hard you push it will cause runtime variability with possibly greater error than you just listed.
@@DoresoomReviews no, it gives you no estimate at all. Given an assumed 25% per bar, your 50% estimate is off by as much as 49% depending on how those bars are calibrated. Math.
I just bought this an am frustrated that the package doesn't contain the edge guide like its twin in the Rigid line. So much for being a member of Ryobi Nation. Any idea where we can purchase that edge guide? The regular Ryobi edge guide does not fit.
I agree it sucks that an edge guide isn't included with this router, but keep in mind they never claimed it was, and the price point is significantly lower than the Ridgid. According to Ryobi, the edge guide for the Ridgid trim router will fit this router. You'll need the edge guide AND the two bolts (P/N 640795001 with 2X P/N 671499001). A Google search for those P/Ns should turn up with a few vendors. Or you could make your own. I'm planning on making one similar to Jay Bates' design: th-cam.com/video/KyKgJKKUvH8/w-d-xo.html
The 2 part numbers you listed would also require an additional part number for the 2 wing nuts. I did additional research and found the part number for the full assembly in a single part number: 204358001. It was VERY reasonably priced at this parts supplier, WISCONSIN POWER TOOL 3132 N Mayfair Rd, Milwaukee, WI 53222 Map & Directions (414) 774-3650
It would fit because they're twins. Instead, I purchased the edge guide assembly, in a single part number: 204358001 that was VERY reasonably priced at: WISCONSIN POWER TOOL 3132 N Mayfair Rd, Milwaukee, WI 53222 Map & Directions (414) 774-3650
Ah, I missed the wing nuts, sorry. Ryobi actually only specified the P/N 640795001 without the bolts when I asked them about it, and I had to figure out it needed the bolts too. Thanks for posting the assembly part number!
A standard carbide bit should be able to handle plastic. I've used mine on polycarbonate with no problems, but you might end up melting other types of plastic since this isn't variable speed.
You can buy one from the usual parts retailers but be aware, you have to buy all of the parts separately - the edge guide, the bolts (2), and the wing nuts (2). Total cost will be about $25-$30 +S&H.
Ridgid, Ryobi, and Milwaukee are owned by the same parent company, TTI. But they're separate individual companies. I can't say for sure about Ryobi and Ridgid, but Milwaukee has made it very clear that they don't share development efforts with the other two.
Interesting. Were they in the same box or just separate bonus items? It's been a few years since I bought mine, so I'm wondering if they added those as standard accessories since.
That sounds like the European or Australian product naming convention that Ryobi has. Those versions must include the accessories, while the North American version doesn't.
it's 600 linear feet, at 10 minutes what is all this cubic inches with a different bit the moon is over the southern hemisphere crap. if I wanted to do math conversions I would go back to school.
Since I didn't use the same type of bit that Ryobi did for their claimed runtime, I compared the volume of material removed in my test vs the volume of material removed in their test.
I had 5 fully charged P108 batteries, mounted this router on a makeshift router table with a 1/4 collet, battery life was 13 minutes-17 minutes tops continuous use. Fully drained all 5 batteries doing simple plunge cut. SUCKS
This is a trim router, it's not going to be up to the task of being mounted in a router table. What size bit were you using, and how deep were your passes?
Some of the tools I review on my channel are provided by Home Depot or the manufacturer, and I provide a disclaimer first thing in the video description if so. I bought this router myself to review it, since I couldn't find any info on it when they first released it.
It cuts fine if you slow down and use a decent bit. I was pushing it pretty hard in the video - more so than I would if I cared about the finished result.
so why did you compare apples to oranges when you could have compared apples to apples, why change the measurement units from feet to cubit inches (CI), (48 CI) this is your review. Trying to sound smarter only makes you look stupid. If you don't like the Ryobi line, when doing a review don't be passive bias...thumbs down
Because I used a different bit profile than what Ryobi based their runtime spec off of. If I compared total linear feet, it wouldn't be measuring the same thing since the two bits remove different amounts of material per linear foot. Also, your accusation of bias is pretty funny, since I was trying to make the comparison MORE fair by measuring total material removed. Go watch any of my other Ryobi videos - I'm fair on all of them. I give their chainsaw, drill, and circular saw good reviews, and their stud finder a horrible one. This one was a middle of the road. But I suppose you'll call any review you don't like biased.
ryobi are rubbish in every way,cheap build,cheap quality,no after sales help,and will not last if your going to use these for more than one day at a time,in the UK you will get no guarantee if you use them and your a tradesman.a total joke company.and as i have found to my cost the new 5amp batteries will burn out older ryobi tools.
Just because your tool let you down doesn't mean they make rubbish tools, on the contrary I have many drills and sanders by ryboi and none have broken yet. I don't see the cheap build quality you speak of. I have bosch and makita too (corded) and all work well if you look after them.
first call I am a carpenter and builder and have been using Ryobi one plus for years, I still have the original 4 amp battery I started with years ago ,still going strong . My tools get worked hery hard ,to the point of being so hot you can't hang onto them and they never have let me down or required fixing whereas my work mates Milwaukee tools have failed .My tools are used on Australian hardwood which makes everything else feel like balsa.
"..in the UK you will get no guarantee.." uk.ryobitools.eu/header/support/product-registration/warranty-information/ I think you're talking out your arse mate. Got a grudge because you're either working for the opposition or just had a bad day.
While all routers are potentially dangerous, this Ryobi router is noticeably different in reference to conventional routers. Conventional routers have heft which allows for more control should you encounter any piece of metal imbedded in a piece of wood ( barbed wire, bullets, nails, etc. ) or a hard knot in a piece of wood, whereas all this lightweight ( unbalanced ) unit has to keep it from skipping around is that little 4X4 inch piece of Plexiglas. Don't get me wrong, I love Ryobi products as I own several. Ryobi's RE180PL1G Plunge Router & R1631K Fixed Based Router ?? Now there are 2 properly designed tools.
I bought mine as soon as it hit the stores. Been wanting a cordless trim router for years. YAY!!! NO CORD!!! I use mine all the time. I keep a 1/4" roundover bit in it. It's not my Triton, but it's not supposed to be. Good review.
Yeah, I think that 1/8" roundover bit is just gonna stay parked in mine for the time being. If I can find an edge guide for the router, it might get quite a bit of use for 1/4" dados as well.
I brought this for my woodwork and tried it, was my first time using a router. Very happy with my purchase. Also thank you for the video. Don't have to watch others after this.
Very helpful video, especially the focus on changing out bits, great visual and instructions, helped me a lot, thanks!
I had already bought one of these before I saw your review. My first router of any kind. I really enjoyed your review and learned quite a bit. Subscribed and thanks.
I got one today, I think is solid, well built and looks nice. Having a couple of batteries fully charged when working is the best thing to do just in case, battery powered you have to think ahead when working on any project. DIYers will be happy to have one...!!!
I live in England, and when I bought my Ryobi router, it came with a straight bit, edge guide, in fact everything to start routing out of the box; only downside- no case or bag.
The US version doesn't come with any of that other than the router and the wrench. Weird.
From Czech Republic, same here. But the 15 bit bit pack isn't available in Europe. And the 6 bit pack you can get here has a very narrow little straight bit. Which highlights that this is just a trim router.
@@blahdiblah2169 They will accept the 1/4 inch bits, so if like me you already have a set, then you are good to go.
@@andrewheathcote2850 I found a set of Bosch 6mm which is ideal for grooving. However I think for what I will be using it for the default Ryobi 6 bit set will be fine.
And I'll get a fully fledged 1/2 inch router later.
They make a lot of cool cordless tools. With this thing you won't have issues with the cord snagging. The Ryobi sander I have is awesome for that reason too.
No more cord snagging is the EXACT reason I went with this, plus I have the 18V batteries already. My larger, corded router is now permanently residing upside down and mounted in the router table. No more need to take it in an out of the table brackets.
I love mine. I build cedar table lamps. Its lite and easy to use with one hand. Ryobi hit a home run with this one.
January 2023, Home Depot was closing out this model for $35 so I took a chance and bought it after watching several reviews. Seems solid, haven't used it yet.
The Rigid guide fits perfectly on the Ryobi.!
That's good to know, thanks!
this Green line has issued many unique tools that others havent yet. I purchased the first , a zip saw. then followed by the belt sander, and polisher. this is on my radar, also the Drain Auger. Ryobi is moving in the right direction. I hope they continue. I still have a Ridgid set.
I bought the old blue 18 V trim router after using a corded HF trim router and realizing there was a need for a small router. The plastic base is a concern, but if it breaks, I will just get one of the new models. While not perfect, it works well enough for my needs.
You can set the bit easier if you remove the base, and then you can adjust the height
Great tip, that's how I do it now too.
It's good that you mentioned the highlights, including the "brushed vs. brushless" motor difference, when comparing this model to Ridgid's cordless trim router. In addition to that detail, I would add a couple other key differences that someone may care about, when trying to choose between the Ryobi and Ridgid:
First, Ridgid offers their Lifetime Service Agreement with their router (the R86044B). I have used LSA with decent success for one of my tools in the past, as well as several batteries that were at end of life. I really like having that bit of peace-of-mind, especially when you KNOW that at some point, batteries ARE going to wear out and pass away. And the darn things aren't cheap!
Second, as you mentioned, the R86044B has an MSRP of $119. That's not bad IMHO, but just as a second data point, I have also seen on the HD website that they offer(ed?) a combo kit, model R86044SB, that also includes a charger and 2.0AH battery for only $10 more. That's quite a steal in my book. Unfortunately it has gone out of stock online and has been that way for a week -- maybe TOO good of a deal? I can't say for sure.
Anyway, great review! I own the Ridgid R86044B, and dig it... but the Ryobi sure also looks like a good option for somebody who doesn't need the variable speed, wants to save $40-50 vs. the Ridgid, or is already invested in the Ryobi battery tool ecosystem.
For what it's worth, both Ryobi and Ridgid are brands owned by TTI. It's pretty , and it's pretty clear that they share quite a few parts and/or design features (I'm looking at YOU, depth adjustment mechanism and edge guide holes!).
Seems I misspoke slightly regarding TTI's ownership. Ridgid is actually owned by Emerson Electric. However TTI's subsidiary, One World Technologies, manufactures cordless power tools for them. And when you look at these two routers, certain design features are SO similar, well... you can probably do the math :-)
Good points!
One note about the Ridgid LSA - I'm pretty sure they only honor it for batteries that were purchased in a kit with a tool, not as stand alone spares. Also, make sure you register the tool within 90 days of purchase, or they won't honor the LSA even if you have a receipt! (I found this out the hard way, with my R4512 table saw, no less)
That's correct, not all batteries get the LSA warranty, just those sold with a tool. The warranty is 3 years for "sold separately" packs, if I recall rightly. Which warranty is applicable, is shown on the packaging of all Ridgid cordless tools and accessories.
And, absolutely you are correct again: Proper LSA registration within 90 says is crucial. AND, it's only prudent that once the process is done (it can take a few days), that you verify on their website that the LSAs are valid and in force. Every serialized tool/battery must be registered separately, too.
Having said all that, the LSA does work as stated, if you comply with their registration rules. It is unfortunate that people do overlook this detail sometimes, but Ridgid doesn't make a secret of the rules.
It also helps if you have a (good) authorized service depot within a reasonable distance from your location. Mine is about 25 miles away, in a place I sometimes travel to anyway. But many people aren't so lucky, so that's kind of a downside. I've heard they have started doing drop-shipments on certain batteries and chargers now, meaning you don't need to do shipping or travel to a depot in person... but I have not used this service myself, so I can't attest to that personally.
Also, now that you mention it, that's a good reason to choose the R86044SB kit if you can get it, over just the R86044B bare tool. Because not only do you get a battery and charger for $10 more, both should be covered by the LSA. Buying a charger and battery separately, neither would get the LSA (unless they're bundled and it says "LSA" on the box). Buying a battery alone would likely NOT get the LSA. Again -- it's all in what the packaging states. Food for thought!
I have now officially thread-jacked this RYOBI review more than enough, and shall commence shutting up :-)
Haha, good discussion is always welcome on my channel!
My first Ryobi was a 12v screw driver for stuff around the house because I couldn't afford anything else. Then I was a bit disappointed with the life of the battery pack, however, the screwdriver worked fine. I then purchased a Ryobi Pole Saw and loved the convenience and noise level of battery operated saw. Being satisfied with Pole Saw I needed a finish nailer for molding work and purchased the Ryobi +1 16 gauge finish nailer. I LOVE IT and don't regret it for a minute. I have air nailers but convenience of the Ryobi +1 finish nailer is AWESOME.
With regards to saying the same company makes such and such tool...I don't buy into that at all..the quality is different. While a company may own a brand that does not mean they change the manufacturing of it so much that they take away from what made the name (typically). I learned this from people I know in manufacturing...a company may own a brand, produce a product and ship it out but like I was informed think of it as a tier system.- Tier D/C may be the everyday common user, B may be the contractor grade, A may be high end .
I actual like that ergo plastic coating especially when I am edge routing I hold it with My elbow at a 45° angle to the cut and above the router to keep downward pressure while moveing forward
Been working great for years, Would love a plunge base as an accessory.
@12:29 Unfortunately the only complaint you have is the only thing the router should do....hold its depth and make it easy to adjust. I was considering this, but Ill think I will move towards the Bosch Colt trim router and deal with the cord. Thanks for the informative and honest review
Good point on the depth adjustment. If you're looking for cordless, Makita should be releasing an 18V trim router in the near future as well.
I have the older model of this router. Couple of tips. During your test you ran in both directions! You should never do that! also, you did not plane your boards first, so ANY comments made about cutting depth variations are to be completely ignored. Further, you were concerned about the adjustment dial shaking, why? If you have ever used a hand plane, you know to always adjust in only one direction, period; so there is no issue there with this router. For my use, I ALSO use it for 1/8" roundover work, exclusively. When you think about how much time it takes to adjust a roundover bit properly, I plan to leave mine with that bit in it. They are economical enough to buy a few of them, and keep the bits in them, adjusted!
tkarlmann You have a good point about climb cutting being dangerous, but that's NOT what I did in the video. Look more closely, and you'll notice I only cut right to left for the first pass. Feed direction doesn't matter when the bit is cutting a dado on the first pass, since it's cutting on both sides. All subsequent ones were left to right. As for the depth variability, I did mention it was most likely due to cup in the board.
tkarlmann thanks he sounded like he was a novice.
I also had the p600 which did have a plastic base which he commented on as being unsafe. My p600 lasted for 7 years without incidence. when it finally died I bought another one that lasted for 5 years and died earlier this year. I do car stereo systems and love the flush cutter bit.
climb cutting is generally bad policy, but with a small router like this and the sense to keep both hands on the tool, it's a bigger threat to the work than it is the user.
> They are economical enough to buy a few of them, and keep the bits in them, adjusted!
That's some really insane logic.
The edge guide for the Rigid tool fits this - it is the same tool.
Great comprehensive review! I'm going for the corded router.
Man, I'm getting one of these to do the light routing in electric guitar bodies (not the outside of the body, the light work inside the body). It'll need a bigger base (Which is easy enough to make), but the makita trim router I'm using to do that right now also has a small base.
The only difference between yours and the one I have, there is no backlash like you have with the height adjusting thumb wheel. Other than that, it works fine for what I use it for.
Good to know they don't all have that much backlash.
I returned this router after owning it for one day. Ended up picking up the ridgid model on clearance for $60. I can't stand the lack of speed control on a palm router. Also compared to the Ridgid, the collet lock is very difficult to hold in. I agree with you that the bump out makes it very difficult to get a good grip on. I can't recommend this router to anyone that cuts through hardwoods, due to the lack of speed control.
The edge guide on the Ridgid fits the Ryobi just a FYI
Lack of speed control almost made me decide against this one. However, the price difference was big enough to sway my decision. If Ridgid released a no-accessories version of theirs with no edge guide and no flush trim bit included, they could knock the price down by at least $20 and be more competitive. I also wish they'd sell that edge guide separately - the only place I can find it is on tool part replacement websites.
But seriously - I would have jumped at $60 for the Ridgid. How was it even on clearance? It's only been out for 6 months or so.
Seems like after christmas every year they will clearance out a couple of tools. Last year I picked up the Ridgid random orbit sander for $20. Whenever I go to Home Depot I always check the clearance rack. they also had two shelves full of the two pack of Ryobi 4.0 batteries for $59. Pretty much a no brainer at that price.
I wish I lived near your Home Depot...
Suppose to go one way left to right the bit turns counter clock wise. Plus there's actually two knobs to fine adjust depth. The white knob and the black knob above it. They move independently. It's a great tool if used properly.
Yes, in general it's good to avoid climb cutting unless necessary due to the grain. But the only pass I went right to left on was the first one with the bit cutting on both sides so it didn't matter.
Great review. I'm sold and subscribed my man.
Glad I could help, thanks for the sub!
Thanks 4 the video. Now I know what I'm doing!
If you want more tips on basic router use, Steve Ramsey has an excellent tutorial: th-cam.com/video/8Vl8Jbw3cSk/w-d-xo.html
Home depot has a fantastic sale for this, plus two of the 3ah batteries with single bay charger for $120. Those batteries alone are worth that with the charger easily
Excellent review. Thanks!
Hi
I bought one of these in the UK mainly because the loose label attached to the router and the box both showed the device to be variable speed. I have since found out that it is not. The Ryobi rep in the store phoned head office and told me it was a bad error on their part. In the uk we also get an edge guide.The backlash on mine is only in the adjustment knob not in the thread. Hope this helps
That's a big oversight in the labelling! Glad ya'll get an edge guide, would have been a nice bonus if it came with one over here. I don't think the bit depth changes on mine with the vibration either, it just feels low quality to see that much looseness. Plus, it makes fine adjustment more difficult and less precise with that much backlash.
It’s not backlash get a dictionary
I have this router. The fine adjustment on mine doesn't move like yours. Maybe should have exchanged yours. Good luck.
Could grind the sides of the wrench head maybe if you want the wrench to work. I believe the wrench is more for changing blades but maybe they could've put a little socket end. Shouldn't have to adjust that a lot anyway
the fence for the RIGID router fits on these
i have a old blue ryobi router and with the newer batteries it works great but you need the newer batteries
Does the older model have a fine depth adjustment knob, or is that an improvement unique to the P601?
Doresoom Reviews no knob and no light so looks like they did some homework. very nice tool to have.
I am interested in that router, but the lack of tightness in the depth adjustment makes me a little nervous. Knowing what you know now, would you buy it again?
Yeah, I would buy it again - the price difference is significant vs the Ridgid version, and I own an equal amount of both brands' batteries. The closeup of the fine adjustment knob rattling back and forth wasn't actually moving the router bit up and down, it was just looseness between the adjustment wheel and the screw. And after looking into it some more, I'm fairly certain the 0.040" depth discrepancy I mentioned was due to the base plate referencing off of the cup in the 2x4. If they were $20-30 different, I would have gone for the Ridgid, but the $50 gap made up my mind.
Doresoom Reviews w
I have this for my quick jobs with not to much detail. The movement of the knob is not a big deal and does not really affect the depth cut but i solve this with either a thick wide rubber band or a piece of tape over the knob. Try it .
But is it skookum as frigg?
flyingjeep911 Skookum is AVE's area of expertise, I'll defer to him on that one.
Wrong channel. If I learned anything from Ghostbusters it's "Don't cross the streams!"
Nov 2021. Currently $50 at HD. Rigid edge guide fits it.
That's a great price!
My only complaint with this router is the grip mold. There's not much room between your hand and the base because of it. Otherwise, the until is solid and worth the money.
I agree. Luckily that's only an issue when the router is at its extreme lower position in the base, and I don't use the tool as much in that configuration.
Help me! When I do circle with my jig, I adjust deep "10mm".
But when machine is going the adjust spinn and going deeper.
How to prevent this?
Vibration make is spinn and adjust deeper
Make sure the collet is tightened all the way down on your bit, and also adjust the base's lever tightness with the nut shown at 4:12
I agree with your assessment. I don't think it's a stellar 5 star router. I bought one without any prior experience in routing only to find out about the 1/4 inch limitations. So I'll keep it around for round overs, and grooving for T tracks or when making jigs or drawers. But it's not the kind of router you're going to table mount and do any sort of jointing with, or plunging or deep grooving.
It's like a "mini router".
this is a great tool
Harbl Freight has a router with a plastic base
Can I use this trim router with the royobi router table?
Suggestion, use at least 4.0 amp battery for it, or it will cut off all the time
I have this router. The manual says, "NOTE: To set the cutting depth to zero, hold the router
in place and turn the micro depth adjustment knob until
it reads '0'." Can you explain what that means? Thx.
Set your bit on the workpiece and zero the micro depth adjustment knob, then lock down the router height. Afterwards, any height adjustments you make will be that distance from the height of the workpiece surface.
Not very accurate saying you used half a battery by looking at the lights, did it just go on to two lights or was it on two lights for a while? And why say Ryobi measured in feet then you go on about cubic inches, surely by using a 2.4m length of wood you just add each pass together then convert it to feet?
I continued running on two lights for a little while. I converted to cubic inches because I used a straight bit instead of a roundover. The torque distribution on the bit profile will be a big factor in run time, so I figured cubic inches was a better unit of measure than just guessing it would get the same linear distance.
Pointy nose pliers could could tighten or loosen that small tension nut!!!
Thank you!
Thank you very well explained.
Runtime tests on this are less meaningful than they would seem. It's highly dependent on the hardness of the material, the depth of cut, and the type of cut...not to mention the size of the battery. As long as it doesn't die in 5-10 minutes with a 5Ah battery then it's mostly a non-issue. Most users aren't going to use a cordless trim router continuously all day and continuously kill the battery.
I would be more concerned about overheating the motor under heavy use than with the runtime of the battery. I could always pop on a bigger battery or have an extra battery if I needed longer runtime. What I wouldn't want is to overheat the motor (or fry it completely).
The tension adjustment that the wrench is too big to turn, looks like maybe you can turn the latch while you hold the nut with the wrench, like on a bicycle seat post.
I think buying an 8mm wrench and a little time with the wrench on the grinder would yield a very good tool for that adjustment.
Hi, thanks for the helpful tips. I just got mine, and this is my first time with a router. while using it, it is giving me a kickback and running away. I am trying to use it to carve out a name. How can I improve and what should I do so I got get a kickback? Thanks :)
The best way to avoid kickback is to cut while advancing the bit into the workpiece against its rotation. Traveling with the rotation is called climb cutting, which you want to avoid.
When plunge cutting into wood so that both sides of the bit are cutting, a reference guide can keep you on track. If it's a straight line, you can just clamp a straight board parallel to the line you want to cut with the router. If it's something more complex like lettering, you may want to look into using guide bushings.
Here's a good article with photo references too: www.wwgoa.com/article/router-basics-how-to-use-a-router/
Thanks much, the article talks about plunge routers. The one I have is a simple handheld ryobi router, the one you demonstrated in your video. I will try with your advice, hopefully that will work. Thanks much, again :)
Is the power of this compared to a 1-1/4 HP router?
Does it have a dust port for the vacuum?
No dust port.
do they sell a bushing plate that accepts brass bushings for this tool?
I don't know of one, but it's possible they might, or may add one in the future.
Hi, You should operate in one direction only
You're right, climb cutting is bad practice. However, if you look closer the one time I went right to left I was making a plunge cut with both sides of the bit cutting, so it didn't matter.
You were a bit harsh. It is one of the cheapest cordless routes and it keeps up to all of the high priced router such as dewalt and aeg. Otherwise I liked your review and will subscribe
Thanks! This router is very capable, but after using other cordless routers, there's a definite difference in quality - most notably noise and vibration levels.
Great info 👍 thx
Thank you
Can you fit guide bushes on it?
Can the ryobi edge guide work on that palm router?
I'm pretty sure the Ryobi edge guide is for full size routers only. The Ridgid guide for their palm router does fit this Ryobi though (TTI is the parent company for both brands).
Would a 3/4" straight but be too much for this router to handle, cutting some datos on plywood?
I haven't tried it with such a large bit, but I doubt it would work well for that purpose. I personally wouldn't use it for wide dadoes, since I've got a full size 2.25 HP router as well as a dado stack for the table saw.
Plus, the user manual warns against it: "Do not use straight bits larger than 1/4 in. or edging bits which cut a pattern larger than 3/8 in. with this router. Use of larger bits can result in loss of control and serious personal injury."
Depends on your cut depth. Listen to the sound of the router -- it will tell you if you have overloaded it. Be VERY careful with plywood! The glue they use will ding up HSS planer blades easily. Be careful!
Solution to your 8mm socket fit issue - use a deep socket. It'll give you the additional length you need to clear the body.
Good tip!
@@DoresoomReviews Thanks. Just as a matter or interest, what brand of bits do you prefer?
I use primarily Freud and Whiteside bits.
@@DoresoomReviews Those may be a bit out of my price range as a light duty hobbyist. Have you ever tried the Ryobi branded bits?
I haven't tried any Ryobi bits myself. For ones that you know you'll use a lot, I think the Freud Diablo bits are a pretty good value for their performance. If you're not sure which ones you'll use frequently, you can always buy a cheaper set and then replace the ones you use the most with a more expensive bit.
You really think the two little lights on the front of the battery are enough to assert you used 50% of the battery pack and not say 38% or 60%? What horrible time testing.
It gives you a ballpark estimate. Wood species, bit profile, and how hard you push it will cause runtime variability with possibly greater error than you just listed.
@@DoresoomReviews no, it gives you no estimate at all. Given an assumed 25% per bar, your 50% estimate is off by as much as 49% depending on how those bars are calibrated. Math.
I just bought this an am frustrated that the package doesn't contain the edge guide like its twin in the Rigid line. So much for being a member of Ryobi Nation. Any idea where we can purchase that edge guide? The regular Ryobi edge guide does not fit.
I agree it sucks that an edge guide isn't included with this router, but keep in mind they never claimed it was, and the price point is significantly lower than the Ridgid. According to Ryobi, the edge guide for the Ridgid trim router will fit this router. You'll need the edge guide AND the two bolts (P/N 640795001 with 2X P/N 671499001). A Google search for those P/Ns should turn up with a few vendors.
Or you could make your own. I'm planning on making one similar to Jay Bates' design: th-cam.com/video/KyKgJKKUvH8/w-d-xo.html
Go to HD. Order the Ridgid edge guide. Try it on the Ryobi. If it does not fit, don't take it, and get your refund or whatever. Solved!
The 2 part numbers you listed would also require an additional part number for the 2 wing nuts. I did additional research and found the part number for the full assembly in a single part number: 204358001. It was VERY reasonably priced at this parts supplier, WISCONSIN POWER TOOL
3132 N Mayfair Rd, Milwaukee, WI 53222
Map & Directions
(414) 774-3650
It would fit because they're twins. Instead, I purchased the edge guide assembly, in a single part number: 204358001 that was VERY reasonably priced at:
WISCONSIN POWER TOOL
3132 N Mayfair Rd, Milwaukee, WI 53222
Map & Directions
(414) 774-3650
Ah, I missed the wing nuts, sorry. Ryobi actually only specified the P/N 640795001 without the bolts when I asked them about it, and I had to figure out it needed the bolts too. Thanks for posting the assembly part number!
Does this connect to a router table
I don't think any router tables exist that allow you to just drop it in. You might be able to make a custom baseplate for it though.
@@DoresoomReviews can you screw it into a router table from the top plate or those are not made to be unscrewed.
I would unscrew the existing base plate, and screw in a custom one in its place.
Is there a blade to cut plasting on this tool?
A standard carbide bit should be able to handle plastic. I've used mine on polycarbonate with no problems, but you might end up melting other types of plastic since this isn't variable speed.
Can this thing cut dovetails in hardwood?
It should be able to. Might be slow going though.
The stud you used is Hem Fir not Pine. Pine is harder and has much more sap.
Maybe I should have specified SPF lumber - I assumed they were pretty much interchangeable. How can you tell the difference?
Is there on board wrench storage?
Unfortunately no.
Anyone use an edge guide on this little router? If so, which?
You can buy one from the usual parts retailers but be aware, you have to buy all of the parts separately - the edge guide, the bolts (2), and the wing nuts (2). Total cost will be about $25-$30 +S&H.
What’s funny is ridged and ryobi is the same company.
Ridgid, Ryobi, and Milwaukee are owned by the same parent company, TTI. But they're separate individual companies. I can't say for sure about Ryobi and Ridgid, but Milwaukee has made it very clear that they don't share development efforts with the other two.
It can use 1/2 bit ir only it for 1/4
Only 1/4" shank. No currently produced cordless router can do 1/2" bits. I think the Makita can do 3/8" as well as 1/4" though.
Is there a way to attach an edge guide to this router?
Yes, it has two threaded holes. The Ridgid edge guide fits this, see the other video comments for the part number.
www.partswarehouse.com/Ryobi-Assembly-Edge-Guide-RY-204358001-p/ry-204358001.htm
How about editing sound levels while running tools! Geez!
Mine came with the edge guide plate and rails and a straight cut bit for 69 on amazon
Interesting. Were they in the same box or just separate bonus items? It's been a few years since I bought mine, so I'm wondering if they added those as standard accessories since.
@@DoresoomReviews they must have been added as they were sealed in the same tiny box.
@@DoresoomReviews I've just checked and mine is the R18TR-0 it looks identical but maybe a different revision, sorry if I mislead anyone.
That sounds like the European or Australian product naming convention that Ryobi has. Those versions must include the accessories, while the North American version doesn't.
Hft router has a plastic base
is it very loud.it appeared to be
Yeah, you'll definitely want to wear ear pro while using it. It's pretty loud.
i woke up my tenants on third floor, neighbors and all the stray cats on my street
прикольный фрезер но ценник на него просто не реальный!
This picture quality is terrible
Damn this thing is loud. I wanted to buy it but this is just crazy
It is really loud. I'm testing the Bosch 12V router right now and couldn't believe the difference in noise level between the two.
Doresoom Reviews is there gonna be a video of you testing it? Love to see and hear the difference
It's posted now: th-cam.com/video/l7dBMt4Oi5M/w-d-xo.html
Because of RPMs Routers in general are the loudest hand held power tools it is not just the Ryobi cordless
Oki
Aluminum is metal
Yes, that's exactly what I said at 2:22.
it's 600 linear feet, at 10 minutes what is all this cubic inches with a different bit the moon is over the southern hemisphere crap. if I wanted to do math conversions I would go back to school.
Since I didn't use the same type of bit that Ryobi did for their claimed runtime, I compared the volume of material removed in my test vs the volume of material removed in their test.
I had 5 fully charged P108 batteries, mounted this router on a makeshift router table with a 1/4 collet, battery life was 13 minutes-17 minutes tops continuous use. Fully drained all 5 batteries doing simple plunge cut.
SUCKS
Also, I highly doubt the poster isn't getting merch/sponsorship from Ryobi. I don't know if he's open about it, but that should be a huge disclaimer.
This is a trim router, it's not going to be up to the task of being mounted in a router table. What size bit were you using, and how deep were your passes?
Some of the tools I review on my channel are provided by Home Depot or the manufacturer, and I provide a disclaimer first thing in the video description if so. I bought this router myself to review it, since I couldn't find any info on it when they first released it.
Thanks for that i was going to buy this now i am not
Glad I could help!
That looks terrible i can do it that ugly without the tool.
It cuts fine if you slow down and use a decent bit. I was pushing it pretty hard in the video - more so than I would if I cared about the finished result.
so why did you compare apples to oranges when you could have compared apples to apples, why change the measurement units from feet to cubit inches (CI), (48 CI) this is your review. Trying to sound smarter only makes you look stupid. If you don't like the Ryobi line, when doing a review don't be passive bias...thumbs down
Because I used a different bit profile than what Ryobi based their runtime spec off of. If I compared total linear feet, it wouldn't be measuring the same thing since the two bits remove different amounts of material per linear foot.
Also, your accusation of bias is pretty funny, since I was trying to make the comparison MORE fair by measuring total material removed. Go watch any of my other Ryobi videos - I'm fair on all of them. I give their chainsaw, drill, and circular saw good reviews, and their stud finder a horrible one. This one was a middle of the road. But I suppose you'll call any review you don't like biased.
ryobi are rubbish in every way,cheap build,cheap quality,no after sales help,and will not last if your going to use these for more than one day at a time,in the UK you will get no guarantee if you use them and your a tradesman.a total joke company.and as i have found to my cost the new 5amp batteries will burn out older ryobi tools.
Just because your tool let you down doesn't mean they make rubbish tools, on the contrary I have many drills and sanders by ryboi and none have broken yet. I don't see the cheap build quality you speak of.
I have bosch and makita too (corded) and all work well if you look after them.
first call I am a carpenter and builder and have been using Ryobi one plus for years, I still have the original 4 amp battery I started with years ago ,still going strong . My tools get worked hery hard ,to the point of being so hot you can't hang onto them and they never have let me down or required fixing whereas my work mates Milwaukee tools have failed .My tools are used on Australian hardwood which makes everything else feel like balsa.
"..in the UK you will get no guarantee.."
uk.ryobitools.eu/header/support/product-registration/warranty-information/
I think you're talking out your arse mate. Got a grudge because you're either working for the opposition or just had a bad day.
👎demo more !👎
So you just want 5+ minutes of me cutting dadoes? Anything in particular you wanted to see?
Rubbish revue
Get professional voice training.
What, you want me to make a musical out of the review? 🤣
Sorry, but as a woodworker of 46 years this thing looks damned dangerous.
More dangerous than a standard trim router?
While all routers are potentially dangerous, this Ryobi router is noticeably different in reference to conventional routers. Conventional routers have heft which allows for more control should you encounter any piece of metal imbedded in a piece of wood ( barbed wire, bullets, nails, etc. ) or a hard knot in a piece of wood, whereas all this lightweight ( unbalanced ) unit has to keep it from skipping around is that little 4X4 inch piece of Plexiglas. Don't get me wrong, I love Ryobi products as I own several. Ryobi's RE180PL1G Plunge Router & R1631K Fixed Based Router ?? Now there are 2 properly designed tools.
Fair point about the light weight.
Trying to decide between the fix or the plunge since Ryobi days are coming :)