*Finally* a decent soldering technique: 1) start with a clean (non-oxidized) end 2) Strip a little longer than needed, but do not *pull off* the insulation-piece - Use this to twist the strands without touching these, while preserving the relative strand placement. The twisting prevents fraying of strands at the stiffness-change-point (where the jacket is removed) - Note: This is contrary to what you may have learnt to do while crimping ferrules 3) Tin the stripped and twisted ends (I would have let some more tin flow into the base of the stripped wire, but your technique works as well. As in point #2, the goal is also to strengthen the "collar". The molten, well-fluxed tin flows backwards too, *into* the jacket, removing the weak-point at the collar, which would have been prone to fraying. 4) Note that while tinning, the soldering-iron (at a toasty 390'C, I suspect) is stroked from the base, towards the tip. Similar to what happens in the _Czochralski_ process, this moves the impurities (and non-eutectic alloys formed by the wire and the solder-tin) *away* from the base, towards the tip, in the form of dross. 5) Cut away the dross thus collected at the tip, leaving a not-too-long piece of tinned conductor exposed (Dispose of the lead-containing waste in a suitable disposal-stream) Nicely demo'd I had my fingers crossed that you didn't forget to place the boots before soldering the wire to the lug :) I forget it more often than I care to admit.
I do fully agree on all points with your in-depth analysis of the steps. I should have explicitly pointed out the details, not only doing it. Your summary is like the golden reference to this video. Really appreciated 👍🏻
Das mit dem Knoten mache ich aber nicht so. Da wird dem Strom ja schwindelig wenn der da durch muss. Ich nehme da ein Stück dickwandigen Schrumpfschlauch. Gern mehr Videos von der Sorte.
2:51: Der Punkt im Video, der am meisten beruhigt: Die Gehäuse werden vorher auf über die Leitungen geschoben 😀Und: Die Schrauben könnten sich nicht lösen, die Schrauben werden sich garantiert lösen.
Verlöten? Zinn fliesst unter Druck. Besser ist, nach Abisolieren die Litze zu verzwirnen und umzubiegen, dann erst das Doppelbüschel zu verschrauben. Drahtfranzen waren gestern.
*Finally* a decent soldering technique:
1) start with a clean (non-oxidized) end
2) Strip a little longer than needed, but do not *pull off* the insulation-piece - Use this to twist the strands without touching these, while preserving the relative strand placement. The twisting prevents fraying of strands at the stiffness-change-point (where the jacket is removed) - Note: This is contrary to what you may have learnt to do while crimping ferrules
3) Tin the stripped and twisted ends (I would have let some more tin flow into the base of the stripped wire, but your technique works as well. As in point #2, the goal is also to strengthen the "collar". The molten, well-fluxed tin flows backwards too, *into* the jacket, removing the weak-point at the collar, which would have been prone to fraying.
4) Note that while tinning, the soldering-iron (at a toasty 390'C, I suspect) is stroked from the base, towards the tip. Similar to what happens in the _Czochralski_ process, this moves the impurities (and non-eutectic alloys formed by the wire and the solder-tin) *away* from the base, towards the tip, in the form of dross.
5) Cut away the dross thus collected at the tip, leaving a not-too-long piece of tinned conductor exposed
(Dispose of the lead-containing waste in a suitable disposal-stream)
Nicely demo'd
I had my fingers crossed that you didn't forget to place the boots before soldering the wire to the lug :) I forget it more often than I care to admit.
I do fully agree on all points with your in-depth analysis of the steps. I should have explicitly pointed out the details, not only doing it. Your summary is like the golden reference to this video. Really appreciated 👍🏻
ich mag deine akkurate beschreibung deiner praxis, bitte mehr solches :) akurat
Das mit dem Knoten mache ich aber nicht so. Da wird dem Strom ja schwindelig wenn der da durch muss. Ich nehme da ein Stück dickwandigen Schrumpfschlauch. Gern mehr Videos von der Sorte.
2:51: Der Punkt im Video, der am meisten beruhigt: Die Gehäuse werden vorher auf über die Leitungen geschoben 😀Und: Die Schrauben könnten sich nicht lösen, die Schrauben werden sich garantiert lösen.
That was very interesting technique, thanks! 👍
Verlöten? Zinn fliesst unter Druck. Besser ist, nach Abisolieren die Litze zu verzwirnen und umzubiegen, dann erst das Doppelbüschel zu verschrauben. Drahtfranzen waren gestern.