Your explanation was the best I have seen on the internet. Each step, step by step, was explained, how and why. Good job. (As a New Englander, I enjoyed your NY/NY accent.)
wow, out of searching and viewing all of the available youtube vids, your video is the most clear, detailed and hands on up close step by step on how to properly and safely install a sub-panel. Just can't explain and show much more clearer than this. I'm running wire to my garage and your video helped from start to finish, I'd give you a pat on the back but, since I can't I'll just have a cold one for ya and subscribe.
Glad I watched this as I learned about removing the bonding screw on the sub-panel so thanks for that. Now I feel good about installing a 60 amp sub-panel in my grandson's garage.
@@Askmediy Good video. Thanks. However, it is not clear why the bonding screw must be removed in sub-panel. After all, neutral in sub goes to the main, where ground and neutral are already bonded. So, all the (green) bond in sub would do is to duplicate the (existing) bond in main. What is the harm?
askmediy - this video just helped me install a sub panel in my garage. After waiting week after week for the electrician to show (oh sorry I forgot, oh sorry too busy, oh sorry ...) I got the balls to do it myself. Thanks for this video - I know basic electricity and with your help I successfully installed my sub panel (and even passed inspection). Thanks!!
#1 - Do not install a separate grounding rod. CAVEAT: If you got a second drop (second set of service entry lines) so that the power is separate that is, each building has its own MAIN, then that is okay. It will pass inspection without this but you risk high voltage from lightning strikes running through the circuits rather than staying in the ground - damaging equipment, etc and possibly fire. th-cam.com/video/WlnFNTay-9Q/w-d-xo.html
@@2Truth4Liberty In many areas " the inspectors" will still require a ground rod and bonding in a sub panel, they do in my area! He is old school and the name of the game is keep that neutral and ground at zero potential, not a floating ground. Just because the code is worded one way doesn't mean it won't be interpreted a different way by someone else? Not all "new math" is good or necessarily true. Countless people believe that grounding and bonding has ventured into the imaginary world of money and greed! Mike Holt, Ha
@@bebo5558 I don't deny money and greed have influence, but when the principle properly aligns with scientifically measured safety, I go with that. [[ l require a ground rod and bonding in a sub panel ]] That's fine so long as the ground rod is also bonded to all other ground rods. Easy/cheap to do with a single bare 8awg wire and can be underground as needed/desired. The theory of "zero potential" is in line with best safety practice. Not absolutely required, but if you have a swimming, etc, would you really want to trust your family to anything less. Bottom line -- If you are going to go overkill with something, electricity control should be the #1 thing on the list of things to go overkill on.
THANK YOU! This video is very detailed, yet simple enough for me to understand. I was not going to tackle this project, because I didn't understand the bonding and the separate ground strip issue. The way you explained things makes it very clear how this needs to be done. You've taken all the mystery out of a simple sub-panel install. Thanks again. You are an excellent teacher!!
At least I'm sure now, that the ground screw in the sub panel, is the one that needs to be removed and a separate ground bus bar be installed thus isolating the two. Thanks for giving a better picture. Such a nice clean install.
Love your videos bro, Im learning allot from you. Last week I installed a whole house fan in my home, and now going to install a subpanel. I learned both from your videos with zero prior knowledge.
The "sub-panel" you're referring to is actually a disconnect switch that is required by code if your panel isn't within 6 feet of the meter. Glad that you found it easy to tie in there.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to share. The only thing I would add is a reminder that the wires feeding the main breaker ARE ALWAYS LIVE. This is obvious to some but not to all. After turning off power by flipping the main breaker, everything downstream of that breaker is now off, but the wires feeding into the main breaker are still trying to kill you. Taping a piece of cardboard over the main breaker and its wires & lugs is an easy insurance policy. No one needs their screwdriver to slip and connect with a 240 volt 200 amp stream of death.
This video was so helpful when installing a sub panel to accommodate the 50 amps needed for a high performance AV system in an older home. The system required three duplex outlets, two 15 amp and one 20 amp, each on their own circuits using oversized wire (12 awg and 10 awg), that are separate from the existing electrical service in the house. Apparently all that juice is needed just to accommodate the system's new power amplifiers.
great video, thanks for taking the time. I was able to wire a shed in the back yard using your steps without blowing the eyes out. This also saved me a bunch of money and with today's economy it helps. May someday you'll touch on two way and three-way switches and what should have a dedicated circuit. Thanks
Well done. I like the way you left room with a loop in the main panel for the hot wires to the sub panel breaker. Gives room to reposition if necessary.
This is the best video I have seen on this subject. Now I just need to find a video on how to install a manual shut off switch in between those two. For running power to my shed the county requires a shut off outside of my shed.
I really appreciate your time spent explaining the sub panel, thank you. To clarify what I understood you to say is that if the sub panel is to be installed in a separate structure such as a detached shop, a ground rod needs to be installed. I have a project that I'm helping my brother with. An electrician connected a breaker panel beneath the service can, which is approximately 100' away from a sub panel he installed inside a detached shop. My brother and I will install the various breakers and wiring/lighting/switches/plugs etc... My concern is that the electrician did not install a ground rod to the detached shop. I was surprised that the electrician told him it wasn't necessary. Keep in mind this is a detached shop that's 100ft. from the nearest ground rod. Should we install a ground rod or go by his word that it won't be necessary? There are no required inspections past the first disconnect which is a few feet from the can, in the alley, 100ft away. Thank you in advance.
I love this you covered like about 4-5 questions that I hadn't even come up with yet... and the more I watch GOOD video's like this which have some serious safety pointed out to us, the more I'm thinkin I need an electrician to help me. I actually went to electric school and installing a sub panel wasn't even taught...lol... That's why I wen't to welding school and kicked some ass, got Certified in all pos stick and a flat MIG and now I'm trying to hook up my Lincoln buzz Box... however, I live in housing and can't be detected messing with the panel at all or I'm homeless!lol so I am really really researching, and talking to electricians till they hate me with dumb Q's. You Help With The Struggle Bro!!
Thanks Dominick for all the very informative videos. I am constantly watching them. Just got done doing the dry walling corners which came out great thanks to you. This subpanel will be next to feed my new garage. After that, I want to install a panel, not sure what it is called, but I want this panel to be able for me to plug in my generator to power my garage in case of a power outage. Anyway you can create a informative video of this process. BIG THANKS-Murfreesboro, TN
Very good video im a electrican the things u explained are very helpful but things can be very difficult if a person does not prepare all they need thanks again love the knowledge u sharing
Wanted to say thanks for the video! I just ran a sub panel to another part of my house with the help of your video. Really loved the help on wiring the sub panel box. Didn't know that part about the grounds and the neutrals for it. I will say working with 6/3 wire is real pain though! I pulled about 35 feet from my main box to the sub panel.
Hey Dom. As an avid DIY'r I always seem to come across your vids. I used this one in particular to install a 60 amp Sub in my basement as I am finishing the space. It came out great. My main panel was filled to the gills and already had some tandems in there. So I had to remove a few slots to make room for the 60 amp double pole to feed the sub. Moved those over to the sub once installed and now I have 6 slots lefts for new basement lighting, outlets and a couple electric wall heaters. Just wanted to say thanks and great job.
Thank you for this video. I bought a 70s trailer and was told I need to upgrade the sub panel but didn't know what the difference was. I also didn't know why some hot wires were all black and some red and black. Thanks for the clear explanation.
Great video! You explained isolating the neutral bar from the ground bar in the subpanel very clearly. I'll be sure to remove the green bonding screw. Thank you
I used to have an outdoor heat pump. Had a (sub?) panel right next to the meter. Took lots of juice (3-240V ckts) with those heat emergency heat strips. They replaced it with Nat Gas and air conditioning all in one. There was two extra 240V branch ckts in the sub?panel on the side of the house. When I installed the Garage Sub-panel I was able to run a nice 240-50 amp ckt out to it from that panel. Was nice not having to return to the main panel "buried" in the house. Blessings, John 20:29
Greatly appreciate the video brother. I'm a bit rusty and knew I was forgetting something....to isolate the ground and neutral in the sub panel....Thanks again
Good Video, I am a Master electrician, I think you did a good job covering all the issues, if I had to add anything, the main rule would be 3 things, neatness, mechanically secure and make sure every conductor should be physically protected. I also would recommend DIY ers to let an electrician install any main equipment it may look easy but we electricians always think about 100 things most homeowners do not think about, we do our best to protect the equipment but most especially people ! Thanks for the video Dominic;)
Cary Lamari Hiring an electrician would be fine, if they all didn't take advantage of home owners by charging $500 per hour. Most want $3K to $5K to do a 2-5 hour job.
Mr Daugherty, with all due respect I don't think we do charge as much as you think, Personally I charge a service fee for the truck and labor which is 37.50 @ half hour plus material and permits. If you think about it we have to have insurance on our truck, insurance on our business for licensing, we have material in the truck we pay upfront, we have license fees which add up to thousands of dollars per year, we have taxes and many more costs. We actually do not make as much as you might think after expenses!
My electrician (who also has a shop in town) wired up a stove in my kitchen. From the main breaker box to the stove he installed a 50 amp breaker, ran the correct wire, and correctly wired up the outlet (but screwed the outlet directly to the floor and not to the wall). All well and good. I was under the house doing some plumbing and inspected the wire, which he left running the entire distance from the panel to the outlet some 40 feet, lying directly on the ground. He charged $1,200 to run one wire from the panel in ample crawl space to one plug and then left the wire directly on the ground. The only hole needed was already drilled. That was an hour job (I was there) and he couldn't be bothered to get the wire off the ground. It took a Forester/Math Teacher (me), the son of an electrician (who passed away 16 years ago) to fix the mess. Not only did he charge quite a bit of money (I'm 5 miles out of town) but he didn't even do a good job. There are legions of excellent electricians to be certain. But, just as there are crappy lawyers or foresters or teachers, there are crappy, even dangerous, electricians (or to a much greater degree AC guys).
Great video. We are moving Ina few months. However. In the meantime we are turning the bedroom into a studio and need to add a sub panel. Great Video!! The key for me is I need to have the audio and speakers (flat powered monitors), and I can't have notice or something going off because there is not enough power. Questions: 1) If I installing bedroom and the main breaker is in the hall. Distance? Including running wire up, over bathroom and through wall or attached to wall. Does it need to be grounded outside if it's ~10 feet away. Maybe just a bit longer due to running. Curving. Bending wire. 2) What if there is no room. No empty spot. We rent so don't want to invest to much but working on Sound Design for SONY. 3) Also noticed you turn power off. In an apt. Wouldn't it be safer to turn off the outside panel too? 4) Okay - its 56" in a straight line. Running wire with turns about 100" or 4.5 feet line (straight), vs 8 feet when turning. Man ours is so old. No cover. It's how I coined the phrase, "NO 3CP's". Where property manager. Groundskeeper comes in and blasts everything white. Causing 3 coats or more that the cabinets won't stay shut. Never again. Advice appreciated. Want to complete CD before moving. Thanks all.
Great job! Interesting that you have the exact subpanel I purchased. Gave me everything I wanted to know about except the romex wire needed between the breaker and the sub. If I use a 40 amp breaker, what size wire would I need, a 8-3? How about for a 50 amp, 6-3?
Thanks a lot! A very helpful explanation, and something I need to do so I can add 4 outlets to my new attached garage. Not a separate building, just new garage attached to house.
Excellent coverage of all aspects of putting in a subpanel. Question: why did this homeowner want a subpanel when there was plenty of space left in the main panel?
Nearly 50k views and you're the only that asked that LOL.. Very good. The answer is very simple. "Because I needed to make this video" LOL.... However some, including myself would install a sub panel say for a garage or apartment to where you could shut the entire area off in one quick shot.
I'm planning on installing an 8 space sub for my new workshop and dedicated outlets for my basement. I was told that you can use SER 6/6/6/6 for the feed to the sub rather than 6/3 Romex.
Hi Askmediy, I think Mr. Madajewski did not see the identification (markings) of each circuits on your main panel (i.e. which breaker supplies what circuit) on the video. He only saw the sticker that you put to ID your subpanel feed. On the other hand, you specifically notified the viewers to identify the circuits for each breaker (the sub-panel breaker in this case) - so it was just a misunderstanding on his part I believe. Great video, thank you for the information, Ciao L
Not sure if this is where to ask you but here goes. First, thanks for your videos. I enjoy learning from them. Ok, my question. I installed a subpanel in my basement using a 50amp breaker in the main box and 50cable. My question is...Can I run an electric stove from the subpanel or do I have to run it back to the main panel? I'm turning the basement into an apartment. Your help greatly appreciated. Thank you
In Houston we look at this different. if your main power coming in from your provider is required a ground rod, anything passed that point is considered a subpanel and the ground comes from the MDP. main breakers are not required as long as the SP in with in sight. in other words if you leave your MDP and install another panel you need 4wires like a NMB83WG and also if you cant see your panel install a main.
I'm a master electrician also and there are a couple things that I would mention. They're technicalities but worth mentioning. The first has to do with the green grounding screw. It is only installed at one point in the system and isn't necessarily going to be required in the main breaker panel so people shouldn't add it just because it's not there. Some systems may have a disconnect outside with four wires coming into the breaker panel. The bonding point would be at the first disconnecting point only. The second thing is the grounding at a separate building. You need to add grounding electrodes but the NEC requires two 8 ft. ground rods that are placed at least 6 ft. apart. They should be 5/8" x 8' but can be 1/2" x 8 ft. as long as they are UL listed.
Hi Dominic, great videos. I'm hoping you can help me out with your expertise. I just finished putting up my panel and all the conduit, wiring and outlets then realized when wiring the panel, the box is actually a subpanel, not a load center with the 100 amp breakers, duh. My question is, can this subpanel be converted to a load center by installing 2 100 amp breakers along with the other 15 and 20 amp breakers. I would hate to have to take this down and start over. Thanks for your help, Michael.
could i get away with as a temp solution to just use a wire nut in place of a ground bar if its only 4 wries until next month? and if yes do i also ground the chassis?
Good, easy to understand video. Question: Is a box put in an outbuilding treated exactly like a sub panel? IOW, is the box NOT bonded? Are the rules different in this case? Can or should it have it's own ground rod and if so is it still not bonded? Any input appreciated.
sorry I just had to answer your question. All panels are load centers but you make them subpanels as Dom said taking the ground screw out. In Houston you need to have a means of disconnect in sight, in other words if your subfeeding then it needs to be a subpanel but if your getting power from your provider the it needs to stay a load center.
Fantastic video - thanks! QQ - at 9:25 you talk about mount the sub panel in a detached building and the need to bond to a new ground rod. When doing so do you still connect the ground from the sub panel to the ground bar in the main panel?
That's going to run much more money. As power company has to disconnect from the pole. Could I run a new wire from sub-panel into fuse where furnace is now? Old furnace will be totally disconnected and taken to dump of course. The main service is only 100 amps.
Great video!! I have a question or two: I have a 200 Amp panel with 20 slots where most of the breakers are doubles or mini breakers. I would like more slots for breakers and would like to know if I should add a sub panel or should I switch out the 20 slot panel for a 30 slot panel? I am comfortable doing both. This leads to my second question which is how many lights can I put on 1 15 amp breaker with 14-2 wire? A previous owner put 18, yes that is 18 which includes 6 outlets actually. The breaker breaks all the time and I had to change every light to CFL bulbs so the breaker does not turn off. Has to be a code violation but I must fix this ASAP! Thanks
Excellent again! Thank you very much. You are the best on You Tube. Would you please do a video on how to install a Transfer Switch for a portable generator? I have a portable generator; and here we took a lot of damage from Hurricane Sandy in New Jersey. I would appreciate a video on how to install a transfer switch for a portable generator if at all possible?
My main panel is about 115 feet from my attached garage where I want to install a 220v outlet for an air compressor rated at 15 amps. I don't think I need to install a sub panel as all I need is one 220v outlet. (there are existing 110v outlets in the garage). Question is, can I install a 220V 20 amp breaker in my main panel, then run a 110 foot length of 12-2 wire fed through the ceiling (not attached to studs) from the panel to the new 220v outlet (basically following the instructions on your adding a 220v outlet video), or is that too long a run? Is a sub panel in the garage, fed via a 50 amp breaker on the main and 6-3 wiring necessary? Also, just checked your website wiring calculator... for a 50 amp circuit (if I decide to install a subpanel in the garage) your calculator tells me I can use 8 gauge (8-3) wire(??)
Hello Akmediy, enjoyed watching your video very well done and to the point. Question: How do I calculate the size breaker for a sub panel. Need to add six breakers for a kitchen remodel and my exiting sub panel only has 1 open slot or room for on single pole circuit breaker. The additional 6 circuits will all be on 20 amp circuit breakers. My current set up is as follows, SE is 100 amp main with wire run to 16 circuit sub panel. Would like to add additional sub panel.
Nice video, thank you. Should each bus bar in the main panel be connected to the corresponding bus bar in the subpanel? I.e. left bars connected together and right bars connected together. If so, then it matters which wire from the 50A breaker goes to which bar in the sub panel. (I was just wondering if keeping the same "phase" ever matters.)
askmediy Sorry, I went back and read what I wrote and it wasn't clear at all. What I mean is: each bus bar in a panel is a 120VAC leg from the utility co. The legs make 240 volts between them because they are in "opposite phase" from each other. So, the two wires from the main panel's 240v breaker that go to the subpanel are connecting the two panels' bus bars together, presumably left bar to left bar and right bar to right bar. If you "cross" these wires, then the right bar on one panel is connected to the left bar on the other panel. In real life crossing the wires won't matter - I was only curious if the procedure should include making sure the wires aren't "crossed" just to be kosher. It's a fine point, thanks again for the great videos.
Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful educating me. I recently purchased a home where they installed new panels with 200 amp breakers for kitchen and basement. After moving into the home the same electrician who installed the panels before I bought the home brought to my attention that the kitchen was wired incorrectly. He is telling me that all the outlets in the kitchen are running off of the stove. Underneath my electric stove top there is a fuse box. He is telling me that i need to Rewire the kitchen counter and install child proof gfci outlets. Install new 4 circuit breaker under counter and remove lines attached to the 220 volt countertop stove and place them into the new panel. Separate the circuits to meet code. He is quoting this at $2300. Could you maybe explain to me why this is unsafe? The house has been like this since it was built and I don't want to make a mountain out of a mole hill if I can help it. Thanks
Why?. Because that's just not how it was ever done. For every reason under the sun.Just have him fix it for you. Everything you said is wrong and should be redone. Each curcute should be on it's own breaker and a panel should never be hidden. And nothing should ever come off the stove.
I watched the video and it was very well done. You mentioned if the sub panel was installed in an detached building, you would need to ground the ground strip in the panel to a 8' ground rod. With that being understood would you also carry the ground from the main panel to the sub panel? Is it an optional thing or required?
I assume your going direct burial. Keep in mind that aluminum has a different ampere rating than cooper. if you need 60 amps, #8 aluminum @ 90 deg C is rated 45 amps where as #8 cooper @ 90 degs C is rated 55 amps. My suggestion would be to install # 6 cooper or #4 aluminum, both rated 75 amps @ 90deg C. Install a maximum 75amp 2-pole breaker, but it will be more expensive than a 60 amp breaker. Your sub panel can be a main lug or main breaker type for your garage. mobile home feeders are fine.
Question- I know you have to take the green screw from the ground bus on the sub panel to isolate the neutral and ground, but it seems that when you mounted the ground bus you essentially did the same thing as the green screw. Did I miss something? Also what is the curled neutral wire on the right side for? I have one in my box. Is it just because it is a short length to the bus and this gives it some play? Thanks for good video!
its all about the amps, ok at 4000w at 120 volts you need a 1p 40amp breaker that is not easy to find and if you do its going to cost you big bucks and at 240v you can run a 2p 20 amps breaker. also one question is what 1000w fixture your running is HID or a quartz or incandescent.
Great video ! I love the part where you say: "ya just don't wanna get the wire and go Booof and tighten the screw like Booof" Guessing you're from NY like me.
I grew up in Rockland County. Nope not the city. Everyone thinks I did lol. Mahopac! I'm there almost everyday. Falcone? Do you have a sister "Christine"
No sister Christine, no relatives in Mahopac. I'm adding a sub panel for my workshop and never done that before, so thanks for the video. I'll be careful not to do any Booofing when I do it lol Thanks Dom!
I have 2 220 volt appliances that have to share a 30 amp breaker. I have no spaces left on my 100 amp main breaker box. right now I have them split at the dryer outlet which is bad and I unplug the other (water heater) when I run the dryer. this is all because I took out a gas water heater and replaced it with electric. too late now to go back to gas. suggestions ? was gonna run the dryer line from the main box to a sub panel box using a 50 amp breaker at the main and 2 30 amp breakers at the sub for my 2 appliances and then run separate lines to the dryer and water heater.
I am looking to install a residential dryer outlet (220V/30Amps) in my RV. The power pole at the RV park I am connecting to has a typical RV 220V/50Amp connection (I am unable to change out the 50Amp breaker for a 30Amp breaker as this is not my property). My plan is to run a 50Amp RV extension chord (25ft) to a 50Amp outlet on my RV (separate from the main power for my RV which is 120V/30Amps). The 50Amp outlet on my RV would then be hardwired to a subpanel. The subpanel would then contain the 30Amp double pole breaker wired to my residential dryer outlet. My questions are: Should I treat this as a subpanel and remove the bonding screw? Also, am I going to need to install a separate grounding rod (as this is a "separate building")?
The green screw bonds neutral bus bar to the metal casing. Screw left in when panel is used as main service panel. Remove the screw, thus isolate the neutral wires from the metal case in application as a sub panel... Capish?
Thanks for the great video. Where I live all residential wiring is THHN ran through Emt conduit. We recently purchased a home and there is already a 100 amp sub panel in the attached garage that feeds a bump out addition garage that is still attached to the main garage which is attached to house. now this is where I get confused there is one 15 amp breaker wired to run this bump out, there are a total of 4 breaker slots all with 15 amp breakers and then a 30 amp main double breaker with three 10ga. wires feeding it no ground I assume due to the conduit carrying the ground. Was this done purposely or was it ran by someone who didn't really know what they were doing. I know that question really cant be answered the panel is mounted on the outside of the drywall and all conduit is also ran on the outside so I would lean toward the later. My question is in order to get this thing wired the way it was designed for and be able to add some more out lets for a compressor and general diy house hold projects and possibly light wood working and possibly put a couple out lets in the main garage sine the are only two one by the door to the house and one for the opener and 4ft strip light. Can i Just get 2ga. THHN and two 100 amp shut offs and basically replace the 30s and the 10ga or is it more involved then that? sorry for the long post but this has bothered me for the past three years since we began renting and the landlord was not the original owner and he could have cared less about anything since we were in a rent with option contract. Thank you. one last thing if I remember correctly its been a while since I did remodeling for a living but for garage and basement I believe all circuits must be 20 amp and GFCI protected correct? so obviously I will need those breakers also.
Marty Howard.. you're describing a sub panel in an attached garage with a total of 6 openings? A 2 pole 30 amp breaker feed by #10's. If your describing this correctly.. that panel is not intended to have a main disconnect (the 30 amp).. You should have a 30amp breaker (marked) in your house panel feeding the sub... what confuses me is you mention a 100 amp sub panel? So I wonder, is there a 100 amp breaker in that sub panel? Is the 30 amp breaker feeding something (220) elsewhere? A home subpanel (non main disconnect) can be feed with any sized 2 pole breaker upto 100 amps. (Grounds and neutrals must be separate) and of course the right sized wire feeding that panel. (do some reading on that one.. voltage drop etc.. distance plays on this) but normally a 100 amp will be feed by #4's , 50amp by #6's, 30 amp by #10's (copper).. there's also aluminum (do some reading). What size pipe is feeding this subpanel? Is it large enough for say #6's.. or #4's 50 amp or 100 amp respectively. If you think there is gonna be a lot of updating to the house, then I would change that subpanel to a 30 space. Then you can run #4's for a true 100 amp, you want to pull out the #10's feeding that panel (if that is the case) , pull in 3 #4's (two legs and a neutral) (make sure and mark the neutral wire on both sides, MAIN and SUB with white tape from leaving the pipe to entering the neutral bar.) I might also suggest running a 4th ground wire.. just incase you get a sloppy connector! (One loose connector can cause you to lose ground down line and that's what makes you the recipient of a shock or electrocution and potentially causing your breakers to malfunction so they do not trip!)
Most dryers today are required to be 4 wire. This means, a ground, neutral, and two hots. Some appliances use 120 volts of the 220 for electronics within.
I love all your video's, very helpful. But I was wondering why you were adding a sub-panel when it looked like you had plenty of room in the existing panel. Was it just for demonstration purposes? Thank you
Hi, I am using a regular panel with a main switch as a subpanel. It will take four strings from four solar arrays. I understand about taking the green screw off. There is also a bar that goes from the neutral to the ground bar currently not connected. Should I keep it that way or take it out all together. Thank you for a great video.
what happens if in the process of moving some breakers and wires to a sub panel and you miscalculated the length of the wire.Would it be ok to enter those wires into a junction box and then to the sub panel feed? What does the NEC say about the use of junction boxes for 1/0 cables and splices? I think I will need to buy that expensive NEC book any suggestions to renting the book or maybe finding one on ebay for less than $50. This book is dam nearly $175 and in some cases not new, wow!!!! I already installed a 300 main service panel outside and will use a 100 sub panel for the garage and will put an additional 80 amp sub panel for the pool and outside lights. The wires like you said are expensive and I tried to measure the best for this application but for my elegance in my work the wires look to me be a bit on the stretch. I would have liked them to have at least eight more inches of stretch. I suppose it would make me happier for esthetics but I would like to know if the junction box works well with the code. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks Gabe.
Thanks man. Its people like you that truely Make America a great place to chill out and learn stuff before work!
Thank you, always my pleasure.
Your explanation was the best I have seen on the internet. Each step, step by step, was explained, how and why. Good job. (As a New Englander, I enjoyed your NY/NY accent.)
Thank you very very much. Yeah I've lived in upstate NY my whole life. Funny how I have that accent.
wow, out of searching and viewing all of the available youtube vids, your video is the most clear, detailed and hands on up close step by step on how to properly and safely install a sub-panel. Just can't explain and show much more clearer than this. I'm running wire to my garage and your video helped from start to finish, I'd give you a pat on the back but, since I can't I'll just have a cold one for ya and subscribe.
Glad I watched this as I learned about removing the bonding screw on the sub-panel so thanks for that. Now I feel good about installing a 60 amp sub-panel in my grandson's garage.
Awesome deal, glad I could help out.
@@Askmediy Good video. Thanks. However, it is not clear why the bonding screw must be removed in sub-panel. After all, neutral in sub goes to the main, where ground and neutral are already bonded. So, all the (green) bond in sub would do is to duplicate the (existing) bond in main. What is the harm?
Go to my site for the subpanel and read what I wrote
askmediy - this video just helped me install a sub panel in my garage. After waiting week after week for the electrician to show (oh sorry I forgot, oh sorry too busy, oh sorry ...) I got the balls to do it myself. Thanks for this video - I know basic electricity and with your help I successfully installed my sub panel (and even passed inspection). Thanks!!
#1 - Do not install a separate grounding rod.
CAVEAT: If you got a second drop (second set of service entry lines) so that the power is separate
that is, each building has its own MAIN, then that is okay.
It will pass inspection without this but you risk high voltage from lightning strikes running through the circuits rather than staying in the ground - damaging equipment, etc and possibly fire.
th-cam.com/video/WlnFNTay-9Q/w-d-xo.html
@@2Truth4Liberty In many areas " the inspectors" will still require a ground rod and bonding in a sub panel, they do in my area! He is old school and the name of the game is keep that neutral and ground at zero potential, not a floating ground. Just because the code is worded one way doesn't mean it won't be interpreted a different way by someone else? Not all "new math" is good or necessarily true. Countless people believe that grounding and bonding has ventured into the imaginary world of money and greed! Mike Holt, Ha
@@bebo5558
I don't deny money and greed have influence, but when the principle properly aligns with scientifically measured safety, I go with that.
[[ l require a ground rod and bonding in a sub panel ]]
That's fine so long as the ground rod is also bonded to all other ground rods.
Easy/cheap to do with a single bare 8awg wire and can be underground as needed/desired.
The theory of "zero potential" is in line with best safety practice.
Not absolutely required, but if you have a swimming, etc, would you really want to trust your family to anything less.
Bottom line -- If you are going to go overkill with something, electricity control should be the #1 thing on the list of things to go overkill on.
Excellent instruction: clear, step by step, leaves nothing out. Thank you.
Thank you very much. Glad I could help out.
Man you make this video enjoyable. You get to the point without compromising safety. Keep up the great job Sir.
Thank you very much.
THANK YOU! This video is very detailed, yet simple enough for me to understand. I was not going to tackle this project, because I didn't understand the bonding and the separate ground strip issue. The way you explained things makes it very clear how this needs to be done. You've taken all the mystery out of a simple sub-panel install. Thanks again. You are an excellent teacher!!
One of the best videos I've seen on subpanels. Very clear and easy to understand. Good job.
Thank you very much.
Been looking for a no nonsense video on this for months now, this was spot on and showed me everything I need to know for my project.
Awesome. That’s my way on every video I make. Thank you so much
At least I'm sure now, that the ground screw in the sub panel, is the one that needs to be removed and a separate ground bus bar be installed thus isolating the two. Thanks for giving a better picture. Such a nice clean install.
Very thorough explanation. Very much appreciate the explanation of neutral bonding screw and need for separate ground and neutral. Thank you.
Always my pleasure, thank you.
I Like You video I watched a lot of videos on sub panel wiring but you're the only one that explained it very simple I appreciate your videos
Thank you so much. Always my pleasure Ronnie
Love your videos bro, Im learning allot from you. Last week I installed a whole house fan in my home, and now going to install a subpanel. I learned both from your videos with zero prior knowledge.
The "sub-panel" you're referring to is actually a disconnect switch that is required by code if your panel isn't within 6 feet of the meter. Glad that you found it easy to tie in there.
I thought I already knew how to do this, but you taught me a couple VERY important things. So so glad I watched this!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to share. The only thing I would add is a reminder that the wires feeding the main breaker ARE ALWAYS LIVE. This is obvious to some but not to all. After turning off power by flipping the main breaker, everything downstream of that breaker is now off, but the wires feeding into the main breaker are still trying to kill you. Taping a piece of cardboard over the main breaker and its wires & lugs is an easy insurance policy. No one needs their screwdriver to slip and connect with a 240 volt 200 amp stream of death.
This video was so helpful when installing a sub panel to accommodate the 50 amps needed for a high performance AV system in an older home. The system required three duplex outlets, two 15 amp and one 20 amp, each on their own circuits using oversized wire (12 awg and 10 awg), that are separate from the existing electrical service in the house. Apparently all that juice is needed just to accommodate the system's new power amplifiers.
great video, thanks for taking the time. I was able to wire a shed in the back yard using your steps without blowing the eyes out. This also saved me a bunch of money and with today's economy it helps. May someday you'll touch on two way and three-way switches and what should have a dedicated circuit. Thanks
Always my pleasure. I have a few videos on 3 ways. Dedicated circuit, now that
s a good idea. Thank you.
Well done. I like the way you left room with a loop in the main panel for the hot wires to the sub panel breaker. Gives room to reposition if necessary.
This is the best video I have seen on this subject. Now I just need to find a video on how to install a manual shut off switch in between those two. For running power to my shed the county requires a shut off outside of my shed.
I really appreciate your time spent explaining the sub panel, thank you. To clarify what I understood you to say is that if the sub panel is to be installed in a separate structure such as a detached shop, a ground rod needs to be installed. I have a project that I'm helping my brother with. An electrician connected a breaker panel beneath the service can, which is approximately 100' away from a sub panel he installed inside a detached shop. My brother and I will install the various breakers and wiring/lighting/switches/plugs etc... My concern is that the electrician did not install a ground rod to the detached shop. I was surprised that the electrician told him it wasn't necessary. Keep in mind this is a detached shop that's 100ft. from the nearest ground rod. Should we install a ground rod or go by his word that it won't be necessary? There are no required inspections past the first disconnect which is a few feet from the can, in the alley, 100ft away. Thank you in advance.
You need a ground rod and everything needs to be inspected.
+askmediy Thank you for responding!! Subscribed!!
Very simple and safe clear way to explain this thanks for the info mrs. Dominic
I love this you covered like about 4-5 questions that I hadn't even come up with yet... and the more I watch GOOD video's like this which have some serious safety pointed out to us, the more I'm thinkin I need an electrician to help me. I actually went to electric school and installing a sub panel wasn't even taught...lol... That's why I wen't to welding school and kicked some ass, got Certified in all pos stick and a flat MIG and now I'm trying to hook up my Lincoln buzz Box... however, I live in housing and can't be detected messing with the panel at all or I'm homeless!lol so I am really really researching, and talking to electricians till they hate me with dumb Q's.
You Help With The Struggle Bro!!
you got a sub!!
plus you look like a fokken guy!! ya know!!
Stay Pro!!
Thanks Dominick for all the very informative videos. I am constantly watching them. Just got done doing the dry walling corners which came out great thanks to you. This subpanel will be next to feed my new garage. After that, I want to install a panel, not sure what it is called, but I want this panel to be able for me to plug in my generator to power my garage in case of a power outage. Anyway you can create a informative video of this process. BIG THANKS-Murfreesboro, TN
I know a lot of pro electritons and your work is the best and easiest to understand. !!!
Thank you so much. More coming this week.
i just posted on this video again but i agree. Dom your stuff is well explained you should be doing classes.
Very good video im a electrican the things u explained are very helpful but things can be very difficult if a person does not prepare all they need thanks again love the knowledge u sharing
+panama1965 Thank you very much.
+panama1965 I have just posted a question that perhaps you wouldn't mind chiming in on
Fantastic description. I'm adding a sub-panel in my garage and this filled in a few gaps i had, such as the green screw. Thank you.
Wanted to say thanks for the video! I just ran a sub panel to another part of my house with the help of your video. Really loved the help on wiring the sub panel box. Didn't know that part about the grounds and the neutrals for it. I will say working with 6/3 wire is real pain though! I pulled about 35 feet from my main box to the sub panel.
Hey Dom. As an avid DIY'r I always seem to come across your vids. I used this one in particular to install a 60 amp Sub in my basement as I am finishing the space. It came out great. My main panel was filled to the gills and already had some tandems in there. So I had to remove a few slots to make room for the 60 amp double pole to feed the sub. Moved those over to the sub once installed and now I have 6 slots lefts for new basement lighting, outlets and a couple electric wall heaters. Just wanted to say thanks and great job.
Excellent explanation of how to install a sub panel.
Me being from NJ, I understood everything, well done.
Thank you for this video. I bought a 70s trailer and was told I need to upgrade the sub panel but didn't know what the difference was. I also didn't know why some hot wires were all black and some red and black. Thanks for the clear explanation.
Thanx Dominic... very helpful, professional and clear. You make it look so easy.
Great video! You explained isolating the neutral bar from the ground bar in the subpanel very clearly. I'll be sure to remove the green bonding screw. Thank you
I used to have an outdoor heat pump. Had a (sub?) panel right next to the meter. Took lots of juice (3-240V ckts) with those heat emergency heat strips. They replaced it with Nat Gas and air conditioning all in one. There was two extra 240V branch ckts in the sub?panel on the side of the house. When I installed the Garage Sub-panel I was able to run a nice 240-50 amp ckt out to it from that panel. Was nice not having to return to the main panel "buried" in the house. Blessings, John 20:29
Greatly appreciate the video brother. I'm a bit rusty and knew I was forgetting something....to isolate the ground and neutral in the sub panel....Thanks again
Awesome, very happy to help.
Now that's what I'm talking about. Glad I could help.
Great video. Especially the information on grounding, very important! I also liked your wire stripping method. Keep up the good job!
Clear, concise, and allows me to do this myself. Thanks!
Good Video, I am a Master electrician, I think you did a good job covering all the issues, if I had to add anything, the main rule would be 3 things, neatness, mechanically secure and make sure every conductor should be physically protected. I also would recommend DIY ers to let an electrician install any main equipment it may look easy but we electricians always think about 100 things most homeowners do not think about, we do our best to protect the equipment but most especially people ! Thanks for the video Dominic;)
+Cary Lamari Yeah god know how many panels I've seen that were a big bird's nest and were only help up by the wire themselves
Cary Lamari Hiring an electrician would be fine, if they all didn't take advantage of home owners by charging $500 per hour. Most want $3K to $5K to do a 2-5 hour job.
Mr Daugherty, with all due respect I don't think we do charge as much as you think, Personally I charge a service fee for the truck and labor which is 37.50 @ half hour plus material and permits. If you think about it we have to have insurance on our truck, insurance on our business for licensing, we have material in the truck we pay upfront, we have license fees which add up to thousands of dollars per year, we have taxes and many more costs. We actually do not make as much as you might think after expenses!
My electrician (who also has a shop in town) wired up a stove in my kitchen. From the main breaker box to the stove he installed a 50 amp breaker, ran the correct wire, and correctly wired up the outlet (but screwed the outlet directly to the floor and not to the wall). All well and good. I was under the house doing some plumbing and inspected the wire, which he left running the entire distance from the panel to the outlet some 40 feet, lying directly on the ground. He charged $1,200 to run one wire from the panel in ample crawl space to one plug and then left the wire directly on the ground. The only hole needed was already drilled. That was an hour job (I was there) and he couldn't be bothered to get the wire off the ground. It took a Forester/Math Teacher (me), the son of an electrician (who passed away 16 years ago) to fix the mess. Not only did he charge quite a bit of money (I'm 5 miles out of town) but he didn't even do a good job. There are legions of excellent electricians to be certain. But, just as there are crappy lawyers or foresters or teachers, there are crappy, even dangerous, electricians (or to a much greater degree AC guys).
Sorry to hear about that. More reason to always get it inspected before paying. Lesson learned I guess.
Thanks for the video--- just installed subpanel in garage with the help of your video. Pretoria South Africa.
+Johan de Klerk South Africa, wow so cool. I'm going national now lol.. Glad I could help out.
Ho to tap drywall
Thank you for featuring this topic. This is a great help in demystifying electrical work.
love the way this guy does things its easy and not alot of being perplex thank you.
very nice...thanks for clearing up a couple questions concerning neutral and ground bus bars in sub-panel...
just wanted to say thanks. very helpful. called my electrician friend once, but other than that, just followed your lead.
Awesome information how you explained everything for a beginner to be able to do !!! Thanks
thanks you helped me❤ now I can do my sub panel.
awesome, glad I could help you out
Great video. We are moving Ina few months. However. In the meantime we are turning the bedroom into a studio and need to add a sub panel. Great Video!! The key for me is I need to have the audio and speakers (flat powered monitors), and I can't have notice or something going off because there is not enough power. Questions:
1) If I installing bedroom and the main breaker is in the hall. Distance? Including running wire up, over bathroom and through wall or attached to wall. Does it need to be grounded outside if it's ~10 feet away. Maybe just a bit longer due to running. Curving. Bending wire.
2) What if there is no room. No empty spot. We rent so don't want to invest to much but working on Sound Design for SONY.
3) Also noticed you turn power off. In an apt. Wouldn't it be safer to turn off the outside panel too?
4) Okay - its 56" in a straight line. Running wire with turns about 100" or 4.5 feet line (straight), vs 8 feet when turning. Man ours is so old. No cover. It's how I coined the phrase, "NO 3CP's". Where property manager. Groundskeeper comes in and blasts everything white. Causing 3 coats or more that the cabinets won't stay shut. Never again. Advice appreciated. Want to complete CD before moving. Thanks all.
The best video I have seen on this subpanel. I will subscribe to keep up on your videos, along with your insights..
Great job! Interesting that you have the exact subpanel I purchased. Gave me everything I wanted to know about except the romex wire needed between the breaker and the sub. If I use a 40 amp breaker, what size wire would I need, a 8-3? How about for a 50 amp, 6-3?
Thanks a lot! A very helpful explanation, and something I need to do so I can add 4 outlets to my new attached garage. Not a separate building, just new garage attached to house.
This is the best video on sub panels I have ever seen!!!....Thank You!!!
...that's funny, I was thinking this was the WORST example I've seen!
@@DavidLFeist whatever.......
Thanks for the video, very informative and clearly described!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I didn't know John Malkovich had changed profession. Thanks for the video!
Excellent coverage of all aspects of putting in a subpanel. Question: why did this homeowner want a subpanel when there was plenty of space left in the main panel?
Nearly 50k views and you're the only that asked that LOL.. Very good. The answer is very simple. "Because I needed to make this video" LOL.... However some, including myself would install a sub panel say for a garage or apartment to where you could shut the entire area off in one quick shot.
Excellent detailed video. Thank you. I'll be installing my 100 AMP sub panel in my basement tomorrow. 🤗
I'm planning on installing an 8 space sub for my new workshop and dedicated outlets for my basement. I was told that you can use SER 6/6/6/6 for the feed to the sub rather than 6/3 Romex.
www.askmediy.com/electrical-wire-size-calculator/
Hi Askmediy, I think Mr. Madajewski did not see the identification (markings) of each circuits on your main panel (i.e. which breaker supplies what circuit) on the video. He only saw the sticker that you put to ID your subpanel feed. On the other hand, you specifically notified the viewers to identify the circuits for each breaker (the sub-panel breaker in this case) - so it was just a misunderstanding on his part I believe. Great video, thank you for the information, Ciao L
Not sure if this is where to ask you but here goes. First, thanks for your videos. I enjoy learning from them. Ok, my question. I installed a subpanel in my basement using a 50amp breaker in the main box and 50cable. My question is...Can I run an electric stove from the subpanel or do I have to run it back to the main panel? I'm turning the basement into an apartment. Your help greatly appreciated. Thank you
WOW dude this is the most helpful video in the entire world! THANK YOU fron NJ
LOL thank you so much. From NY
In Houston we look at this different. if your main power coming in from your provider is required a ground rod, anything passed that point is considered a subpanel and the ground comes from the MDP. main breakers are not required as long as the SP in with in sight. in other words if you leave your MDP and install another panel you need 4wires like a NMB83WG and also if you cant see your panel install a main.
Great video, I installed my sub panel following your video/ directions and worked great. Thanks Erky
Thank you. No, as long as it's not that far from the main panel. How far is it ?
I'm a master electrician also and there are a couple things that I would mention. They're technicalities but worth mentioning. The first has to do with the green grounding screw. It is only installed at one point in the system and isn't necessarily going to be required in the main breaker panel so people shouldn't add it just because it's not there. Some systems may have a disconnect outside with four wires coming into the breaker panel. The bonding point would be at the first disconnecting point only. The second thing is the grounding at a separate building. You need to add grounding electrodes but the NEC requires two 8 ft. ground rods that are placed at least 6 ft. apart. They should be 5/8" x 8' but can be 1/2" x 8 ft. as long as they are UL listed.
+Anthony Mccabe You only need two ground rods if one doesn't have 25 ohms or less. Art. 250.56
Anthony is right. Code used to require 2 only if over 25 ohms. Now requires 2.
Hi Dominic, great videos. I'm hoping you can help me out with your expertise. I just finished putting up my panel and all the conduit, wiring and outlets then realized when wiring the panel, the box is actually a subpanel, not a load center with the 100 amp breakers, duh. My question is, can this subpanel be converted to a load center by installing 2 100 amp breakers along with the other 15 and 20 amp breakers. I would hate to have to take this down and start over. Thanks for your help, Michael.
I love this guy,,very detailed compared to others,,
could i get away with as a temp solution to just use a wire nut in place of a ground bar if its only 4 wries until next month? and if yes do i also ground the chassis?
Good, easy to understand video. Question: Is a box put in an outbuilding treated exactly like a sub panel? IOW, is the box NOT bonded? Are the rules different in this case? Can or should it have it's own ground rod and if so is it still not bonded? Any input appreciated.
sorry I just had to answer your question. All panels are load centers but you make them subpanels as Dom said taking the ground screw out. In Houston you need to have a means of disconnect in sight, in other words if your subfeeding then it needs to be a subpanel but if your getting power from your provider the it needs to stay a load center.
Great information. Why would anyone sell a sub panel without a ground bus? Is there some situation where you wouldn't require one?
Fantastic video - thanks! QQ - at 9:25 you talk about mount the sub panel in a detached building and the need to bond to a new ground rod. When doing so do you still connect the ground from the sub panel to the ground bar in the main panel?
Yes
so in this case would that subpanel ground bar be connected to the main ground bar and the new grounding rod?
You are the best good work I respect you as a Electrican keep it up I will be watching for you
That's going to run much more money. As power company has to disconnect from the pole.
Could I run a new wire from sub-panel into fuse where furnace is now? Old furnace will be totally disconnected and taken to dump of course. The main service is only 100 amps.
Great video!! I have a question or two: I have a 200 Amp panel with 20 slots where most of the breakers are doubles or mini breakers. I would like more slots for breakers and would like to know if I should add a sub panel or should I switch out the 20 slot panel for a 30 slot panel? I am comfortable doing both. This leads to my second question which is how many lights can I put on 1 15 amp breaker with 14-2 wire? A previous owner put 18, yes that is 18 which includes 6 outlets actually. The breaker breaks all the time and I had to change every light to CFL bulbs so the breaker does not turn off. Has to be a code violation but I must fix this ASAP! Thanks
www.askmediy.com/how-many-lights-and-or-outlets-can-go-on-15a-or-20a-breaker/
askmediy Thanks, but that did not answer either question. I will keep looking
I appreciate the video. Been looking to install one for years...
And now you can. Glad I could help out.
Excellent again! Thank you very much. You are the best on You Tube. Would you please do a video on how to install a Transfer Switch for a portable generator? I have a portable generator; and here we took a lot of damage from Hurricane Sandy in New Jersey. I would appreciate a video on how to install a transfer switch for a portable generator if at all possible?
L DR p
My main panel is about 115 feet from my attached garage where I want to install a 220v outlet for an air compressor rated at 15 amps. I don't think I need to install a sub panel as all I need is one 220v outlet. (there are existing 110v outlets in the garage). Question is, can I install a 220V 20 amp breaker in my main panel, then run a 110 foot length of 12-2 wire fed through the ceiling (not attached to studs) from the panel to the new 220v outlet (basically following the instructions on your adding a 220v outlet video), or is that too long a run? Is a sub panel in the garage, fed via a 50 amp breaker on the main and 6-3 wiring necessary? Also, just checked your website wiring calculator... for a 50 amp circuit (if I decide to install a subpanel in the garage) your calculator tells me I can use 8 gauge (8-3) wire(??)
Hello Akmediy, enjoyed watching your video very well done and to the point.
Question: How do I calculate the size breaker for a sub panel. Need to add six breakers for a kitchen remodel and my exiting sub panel only has 1 open slot or room for on single pole circuit breaker. The additional 6 circuits will all be on 20 amp circuit breakers.
My current set up is as follows, SE is 100 amp main with wire run to 16 circuit sub panel. Would like to add additional sub panel.
Nice video, thank you. Should each bus bar in the main panel be connected to the corresponding bus bar in the subpanel? I.e. left bars connected together and right bars connected together. If so, then it matters which wire from the 50A breaker goes to which bar in the sub panel. (I was just wondering if keeping the same "phase" ever matters.)
askmediy Sorry, I went back and read what I wrote and it wasn't clear at all. What I mean is: each bus bar in a panel is a 120VAC leg from the utility co. The legs make 240 volts between them because they are in "opposite phase" from each other. So, the two wires from the main panel's 240v breaker that go to the subpanel are connecting the two panels' bus bars together, presumably left bar to left bar and right bar to right bar. If you "cross" these wires, then the right bar on one panel is connected to the left bar on the other panel. In real life crossing the wires won't matter - I was only curious if the procedure should include making sure the wires aren't "crossed" just to be kosher. It's a fine point, thanks again for the great videos.
montwell2 the phases go up and down, not left to right.
Thank you for your videos, they are very helpful educating me.
I recently purchased a home where they installed new panels with 200 amp breakers for kitchen and basement. After moving into the home the same electrician who installed the panels before I bought the home brought to my attention that the kitchen was wired incorrectly. He is telling me that all the outlets in the kitchen are running off of the stove. Underneath my electric stove top there is a fuse box. He is telling me that i need to Rewire the kitchen counter and install child proof gfci outlets. Install new 4 circuit breaker under counter and remove lines attached to the 220 volt countertop stove and place them into the new panel. Separate the circuits to meet code.
He is quoting this at $2300. Could you maybe explain to me why this is unsafe? The house has been like this since it was built and I don't want to make a mountain out of a mole hill if I can help it.
Thanks
Why?. Because that's just not how it was ever done. For every reason under the sun.Just have him fix it for you. Everything you said is wrong and should be redone. Each curcute should be on it's own breaker and a panel should never be hidden. And nothing should ever come off the stove.
I watched the video and it was very well done. You mentioned if the sub panel was installed in an detached building, you would need to ground the ground strip in the panel to a 8' ground rod. With that being understood would you also carry the ground from the main panel to the sub panel? Is it an optional thing or required?
I assume your going direct burial. Keep in mind that aluminum has a different ampere rating than cooper. if you need 60 amps, #8 aluminum @ 90 deg C is rated 45 amps where as #8 cooper @ 90 degs C is rated 55 amps. My suggestion would be to install # 6 cooper or #4 aluminum, both rated 75 amps @ 90deg C. Install a maximum 75amp 2-pole breaker, but it will be more expensive than a 60 amp breaker. Your sub panel can be a main lug or main breaker type for your garage. mobile home feeders are fine.
Thank You Dominic, you did a nice job explaining sub panel installation.
Thank you very much.
Great explanation! I just wanted to suggest buying a microphone to get rid of ambient noise.
+thomas cocker Yes very, I have one now. Thank you
This is a great video and was extremely helpful
Awesome, glad I could help you out
Question- I know you have to take the green screw from the ground bus on the sub panel to isolate the neutral and ground, but it seems that when you mounted the ground bus you essentially did the same thing as the green screw. Did I miss something?
Also what is the curled neutral wire on the right side for? I have one in my box. Is it just because it is a short length to the bus and this gives it some play?
Thanks for good video!
Awesome video...informative, clear and easy to understand! Thank you!
its all about the amps, ok at 4000w at 120 volts you need a 1p 40amp breaker that is not easy to find and if you do its going to cost you big bucks and at 240v you can run a 2p 20 amps breaker. also one question is what 1000w fixture your running is HID or a quartz or incandescent.
Great video ! I love the part where you say: "ya just don't wanna get the wire and go Booof and tighten the screw like Booof" Guessing you're from NY like me.
LOL thank you. Yes from Orange County NY
Yea but thats not where you grew up
I went from Yonkers to Mahopac and just moved to Danbury
I grew up in Rockland County. Nope not the city. Everyone thinks I did lol. Mahopac! I'm there almost everyday. Falcone? Do you have a sister "Christine"
No sister Christine, no relatives in Mahopac. I'm adding a sub panel for my workshop and never done that before, so thanks for the video. I'll be careful not to do any Booofing when I do it lol Thanks Dom!
Great video, well explained and to the point and was not confusing. Thank you!! I saved and shared your video.
Awesome, glad I could help you out.
I have 2 220 volt appliances that have to share a 30 amp breaker. I have no spaces left on my 100 amp main breaker box. right now I have them split at the dryer outlet which is bad and I unplug the other (water heater) when I run the dryer. this is all because I took out a gas water heater and replaced it with electric. too late now to go back to gas. suggestions ?
was gonna run the dryer line from the main box to a sub panel box using a 50 amp breaker at the main and 2 30 amp breakers at the sub for my 2 appliances and then run separate lines to the dryer and water heater.
I am looking to install a residential dryer outlet (220V/30Amps) in my RV. The power pole at the RV park I am connecting to has a typical RV 220V/50Amp connection (I am unable to change out the 50Amp breaker for a 30Amp breaker as this is not my property). My plan is to run a 50Amp RV extension chord (25ft) to a 50Amp outlet on my RV (separate from the main power for my RV which is 120V/30Amps). The 50Amp outlet on my RV would then be hardwired to a subpanel. The subpanel would then contain the 30Amp double pole breaker wired to my residential dryer outlet. My questions are: Should I treat this as a subpanel and remove the bonding screw? Also, am I going to need to install a separate grounding rod (as this is a "separate building")?
The green screw bonds neutral bus bar to the metal casing. Screw left in when panel is used as main service panel. Remove the screw, thus isolate the neutral wires from the metal case in application as a sub panel... Capish?
Thanks for the great video. Where I live all residential wiring is THHN ran through Emt conduit. We recently purchased a home and there is already a 100 amp sub panel in the attached garage that feeds a bump out addition garage that is still attached to the main garage which is attached to house. now this is where I get confused there is one 15 amp breaker wired to run this bump out, there are a total of 4 breaker slots all with 15 amp breakers and then a 30 amp main double breaker with three 10ga. wires feeding it no ground I assume due to the conduit carrying the ground. Was this done purposely or was it ran by someone who didn't really know what they were doing. I know that question really cant be answered the panel is mounted on the outside of the drywall and all conduit is also ran on the outside so I would lean toward the later. My question is in order to get this thing wired the way it was designed for and be able to add some more out lets for a compressor and general diy house hold projects and possibly light wood working and possibly put a couple out lets in the main garage sine the are only two one by the door to the house and one for the opener and 4ft strip light. Can i Just get 2ga. THHN and two 100 amp shut offs and basically replace the 30s and the 10ga or is it more involved then that? sorry for the long post but this has bothered me for the past three years since we began renting and the landlord was not the original owner and he could have cared less about anything since we were in a rent with option contract. Thank you. one last thing if I remember correctly its been a while since I did remodeling for a living but for garage and basement I believe all circuits must be 20 amp and GFCI protected correct? so obviously I will need those breakers also.
Marty Howard.. you're describing a sub panel in an attached garage with a total of 6 openings? A 2 pole 30 amp breaker feed by #10's. If your describing this correctly.. that panel is not intended to have a main disconnect (the 30 amp).. You should have a 30amp breaker (marked) in your house panel feeding the sub... what confuses me is you mention a 100 amp sub panel? So I wonder, is there a 100 amp breaker in that sub panel? Is the 30 amp breaker feeding something (220) elsewhere? A home subpanel (non main disconnect) can be feed with any sized 2 pole breaker upto 100 amps. (Grounds and neutrals must be separate) and of course the right sized wire feeding that panel. (do some reading on that one.. voltage drop etc.. distance plays on this) but normally a 100 amp will be feed by #4's , 50amp by #6's, 30 amp by #10's (copper).. there's also aluminum (do some reading). What size pipe is feeding this subpanel? Is it large enough for say #6's.. or #4's 50 amp or 100 amp respectively. If you think there is gonna be a lot of updating to the house, then I would change that subpanel to a 30 space. Then you can run #4's for a true 100 amp, you want to pull out the #10's feeding that panel (if that is the case) , pull in 3 #4's (two legs and a neutral) (make sure and mark the neutral wire on both sides, MAIN and SUB with white tape from leaving the pipe to entering the neutral bar.) I might also suggest running a 4th ground wire.. just incase you get a sloppy connector! (One loose connector can cause you to lose ground down line and that's what makes you the recipient of a shock or electrocution and potentially causing your breakers to malfunction so they do not trip!)
Does the dryer require a neutral ?
Most dryers today are required to be 4 wire. This means, a ground, neutral, and two hots. Some appliances use 120 volts of the 220 for electronics within.
I love all your video's, very helpful. But I was wondering why you were adding a sub-panel when it looked like you had plenty of room in the existing panel. Was it just for demonstration purposes?
Thank you
Hi, I am using a regular panel with a main switch as a subpanel. It will take four strings from four solar arrays. I understand about taking the green screw off. There is also a bar that goes from the neutral to the ground bar currently not connected. Should I keep it that way or take it out all together. Thank you for a great video.
+Carlos Hi, when you start taking solar panels I'm sorry but I really don't know enough about them.
what happens if in the process of moving some breakers and wires to a sub panel and you miscalculated the length of the wire.Would it be ok to enter those wires into a junction box and then to the sub panel feed? What does the NEC say about the use of junction boxes for 1/0 cables and splices? I think I will need to buy that expensive NEC book any suggestions to renting the book or maybe finding one on ebay for less than $50. This book is dam nearly $175 and in some cases not new, wow!!!! I already installed a 300 main service panel outside and will use a 100 sub panel for the garage and will put an additional 80 amp sub panel for the pool and outside lights. The wires like you said are expensive and I tried to measure the best for this application but for my elegance in my work the wires look to me be a bit on the stretch. I would have liked them to have at least eight more inches of stretch. I suppose it would make me happier for esthetics but I would like to know if the junction box works well with the code. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks Gabe.